Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2018

They say timing is everything and one is inclined to guess that Tomas Maier would agree. He operates on a schedule — the calendar is often the first thing he references during previews of his collections, whether for Bottega Veneta or his own line. At a walk-through of the former’s pre-fall lineup, Maier divvied the clothes up into three deliveries — May, June and July — almost designing three micro-themes within one collection, each based on what he thinks women would want at that exact time of year.
The first part was the next step from his spring collection — light, soft, unadorned derivations of some of the silhouettes shown on the runway. Light pink dresses in airy, washed silk were suited to summer’s early days. Then, for June, “What do I need?” asked Maier. “It’s probably a wedding, a christening. Events come up.” Special occasions warranted special details, such as an easy, robe-like printed cotton coat over a multicolored bronze, blue and white paillette dress in a simple, sporty silhouette. When it finally gets closer to real fall, Maier wanted to tease the season with sophisticated back-to-school/back-to-work shapes, such as graphic plaid skirts, leather jackets and ultralight knit polos with

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Deadwood: HBO plans film revival for 2018

After years of online pleads and media inquiries, HBO has finally announced plans to reboot one of its most beloved shows.
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Escada RTW Pre-Fall 2018

Newly appointed global design director Niall Sloan started in August, though his first imprint on the label won’t be until the fall 2018 collection. In the interim, a design team worked on both mainline and Sport with the goal of taking classic Escada prints and reinterpreting them in new silhouettes. The effect was a less structured, more lightweight offering for the boardroom to dinner. Florals atop florals were an easy path to more youthful dressing, and could pack easily into itself, like a wrinkle-free coatdress that folded into an envelope pouch.
The inspiration was twofold — Peter Lindbergh’s recent photo exhibition in Germany and iznik pottery from Turkey — resulting in a mix of classic men’s wear-inspired suiting with bold prints in red, blue and turquoise. The items that toed the balance best were subtle, as in cardigans and sweatshirts with hand-beaded petals that never felt overdone. There were in fact quite a few embellished looks, from a flirty blue dress that would suit any young starlet to an evening gown that took over 300 hours to hand-bead; though a great deal of work was applied to these, they maintained an unstructured ease. Perhaps that’s the reason customers keep coming back

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Roland Mouret Resort 2018

Roland Mouret loosened up for resort, presenting a series of fluid silhouettes in a monochromatic palette of red, black and white. There were flowing midi dresses, airy blouses and loosely draped jumpsuits.
Mouret also experimented with tailoring while staying true to his signature femininity; cropped trousers, pencil skirts and jackets were done in monochromatic tweed fabrics, featuring details such as lace trims and raffia fringing.
The eveningwear offer stood out for its bold floral patterns and delicate fil coupé fabrics, which highlights the designer’s efforts to introduce his take on demi-couture, offering decorative yet wearable pieces “for a new generation of customers.”

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Retail Lab Recipients for 2018 Revealed as Prabal Gurung Store Opens

Title of Work, Dannijo, Rosetta Getty and Rachel Zoe are the next group of designers who have been chosen for the Retail Lab program from the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Cadillac.
The class of 2018 will join Timo Weiland, Cushnie et Ochs, Public School, Tanya Taylor, Pamela Love and Prabal Gurung who each took over the ground floor rotating retail space at Cadillac House at 330 Hudson Street in TriBeCa this year.
Gurung is the final designer to open a store this year and it will remain in operation through the holiday season.
Gurung’s store offers the designer’s latest collection in addition to skin-care products created in partnership with Belif and hand-crafted artisanal products from his home in Nepal. Prominently featured in the store are his statement T-shirts and a range of exclusive sweatshirts from the fall collection that were created in response to the current political climate and to bring attention to women’s rights.
The store also offers pieces from his Stronger in Colour spring line and heart Ts that are exclusive to the Retail Lab and his own e-commerce site. A percentage of the proceeds from the sale of those products, which are intended to raise awareness of racial and gender

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Alexander McQueen Resort 2018

Inspired by English country gardens, Alexander McQueen’s resort outing was brimming with romance: Flowers were printed and embroidered on delicate chiffon mididresses, while knitwear and corseted gowns were designed to evoke caging. Juxtaposing the softer elements were slim suits done in a handwoven tweed, structured monochromatic blazers thrown over dresses and oversized trenchcoats. Embellishment was another key element. With the idea of family heirlooms in mind, Sarah Burton added heavy crystal embellishments in the shape of flowers on everything from gowns to knitwear, while suits were matched with statement necklaces.

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Toga RTW Spring 2018

Thanks to support from Amazon Fashion via its At Tokyo program, Yasuko Furuta presented her first show in Tokyo in 12 years, and it just so happened to coincide with her brand’s 20th anniversary. The designer said she views it as her job to always be creating new things, and therefore, she didn’t want to pull styles from her archives but wanted to create a collection that was as representative of her brand as possible. Her models descended via escalator to a curved runway set up on the ground floor of the National Art Center Tokyo. She added feminine detailing such as cinched waists and cropped lengths to men’s wear, while masculine shapes and tailoring was mixed into her women’s offering. Pleated skirts had a hole in the front for one leg to pass through, dresses had high slits or a single long sleeve, and trousers had wide legs and high waists. A series of subtly deconstructed suiting included jackets that were turned inside out or had cutout backs or lopped off sleeves. Furuta incorporated a variety of eye-catching textures, from clear vinyl and sheer mesh to plastic-y crinkle fabrics and a ruched metallic plaid.

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J Brand RTW Spring 2018

Staged in a sun-filled studio set with loads of green plants and wicker chairs on which the models lounged, it was easy to infer an organic, clean California aesthetic from J Brand’s spring collection. The collection’s jeans — many cropped with high waists, wide or straight legs in powdery pink, natural off-white and traditional blue indigo — will pair well with the pottery-loving, gluten- and dairy-free cool girl’s lifestyle. From jean jackets to white Ts to a black leather miniskirt, the shapes were mostly clean and classic with little to no whiskering and the only distressing a raw hem or two. For the first time, men’s was included in the presentation, with the guys playing perfect counterpart to the girls in skinny jeans and relaxed jackets in shades of white, gray and faded blue.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2018

Elegant, modern and minimalist, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s spring collection showed a polish and professionalism that can only be gained through experience. They showed largely monotone looks in neutral shades of khaki, brown, black and white, with some snakeskin print thrown in for contrast. Long, pleated organza skirts were worn over slim pants with slits at the back of the ankles, and jackets were layered over calf-length dresses. A collaboration with The North Face produced outdoorsy anorak jackets in extralong or ultracropped lengths, providing the perfect contrast to the contemporary urban aesthetic of the other pieces.

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Céline Resort 2018

Phoebe Philo’s resort 2018 collection includes lingerie dressing, big furs and lots of beige.

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Ralph Lauren Unveils 2018 Olympic Closing Ceremony Uniforms

It’s almost another Olympic year, if you can believe it. Today marks the 100-day countdown to the Olympic Winter Games Pyeongchang 2018. As such the United States Olympic Committee is unveiling Team USA’s closing ceremony uniforms, designed by Polo Ralph Lauren, the official outfitter of the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Teams for the sixth Olympic Games running.

Polo Ralph Lauren’s Team USA Closing Ceremony Uniforms for the 2018 Olympic Winter Games. 

The uniforms worn for the closing ceremony parade are done in patriotic red, white and blue, and include a white water-repellent down jacket; navy double-fleece pants with red stripe detailing, and a vintage ski-inspired sweater in a bold red, white and blue block stripe. To accessorize, there are wool gloves with a winter-inspired intarsia pattern and a matching ski hat; a graphic bandanna featuring the American flag, and brown suede mountaineering boots with red laces.
The Polo Ralph Lauren Team USA Collection will be available beginning in December in select Ralph Lauren and Polo Ralph Lauren retail stores and on ralphlauren.com and teamusashop.com.

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Viviano Sue RTW Spring 2018

Both the show notes and the runway, with its garden-like installation at the end, made Sue’s inspiration for spring clear: flowers and nature. He used a literal interpretation, turning out loose chiffon dresses, ruffled blouses and oversized shirts in a variety of botanical prints. He mixed these with black satin bomber jackets and trousers that snapped down the side like track pants. A series of monotone ensembles in dusty rose felt out of place, and the show closed with a grouping of tulle dresses with long trains and lots of gathering. In all black or all white, some of these were reminiscent of wedding dresses, and also distracted from the rest of the collection.

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Fortuna Tokyo RTW Spring 2018

Akiko Koba aims to support Japanese craftsmanship by using traditional woven silk fabrics in her collections. For her first presentation during Tokyo Fashion Week, she showed tailored suits and preppy cuffed shorts and polo shirts for men, and short suits, tweed jackets, and swing dresses for women. While the silhouettes have been seen countless times before, the textiles were beautiful.

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Mikio Sakabe RTW Spring 2018

Mikio Sakabe has long been one of Japan’s favorite avant-garde brands, and the spring offering was no exception. Now designed by the founder and his wife, Shueh Jen-Fang, its latest collection featured quirky takes on colorful Eighties power suits. V-neck buttoned dresses were layered over ruffled blouses, and skirts and jacket sleeves were voluminous to the max. The looks were complemented by extreme platform shoes, causing the models to step gingerly down the runway. The show closed with a coat and suit jacket in a dainty floral print, each with padded, three-dimensional protrusions in the shape of hearts or stars.

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Nerd Unit RTW Spring 2018

Overt military references permeated Ronald Chew’s latest streetwear offering. A large portion of the collection was turned out in a geometric camouflage print in either green or gray, and some looks were accessorized with a flag, combat helmet or police hat. A workman-style jumpsuit for men and a women’s ensemble consisting of a black velour T-shirt and wide-leg pants provided a small dose of variety, but overall the cargo pants and parkas felt repetitive.

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Licht Ster RTW Spring 2018

Naoshi Sawayanagi formerly ran his own eponymous label, but now he has teamed with Hikari, niece of Japanese fashion designer Junko Koshino, on this new brand. It showed a mix of ath-leisure and preppy looks, nearly all in stark white, that would all have looked right at home in a country club. But the cropped racer-back tanks, tennis dresses, jogger pants, sports shorts and blazers quickly became repetitive and failed to provide excitement.

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Original Penguin Taps Band AJR for Spring 2018 Campaign

Men’s wear brand Original Penguin has tapped New York-based indie band AJR for its spring campaign, to be released in February of next year. Brothers Adam, Jack and Ryan Met were in Los Angeles this week to shoot the campaign as well as the music video for their single “Come Hang Out,” off their new album “The Click,” a version of which will also serve as the video campaign for OP’s spring collection.

Adam, Jack and Ryan Met of AJR. 
Jim Metzger

“The shoot is some performance and some facial expressions, sort of like acting,” said Jack Met, explaining the concept of the video. “We are at a crazy party, but we are so busy performing that we don’t really notice the party going on around us,” he said.
Adam Met explained that it’s their first time linking with a fashion brand. “Original Penguin has great style, great simplicity and a throwback vibe that mirrors our style as a band. I also like the juxtapositions in the line, like a Seventies print shirt with Nineties pants. It’s sort of our like our music, a post-modern mix.”
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Discovered Men’s Spring 2018

Tatsuya Kimura and Sanae Yoshida went grungy for spring, layering hooded sweatshirts, coats and loose-fitting pants in mixed plaids, denim, tie-dye and patchwork. Interspersed were a few more elegant looks of tailored black pants and jackets with flame motifs embroidered above the hems. And — likely due to the brand winning last season’s DHL Designer Award — there were also DHL branded T-shirts and bandages worn over nose bridges, which felt forced and over the top.

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Murral RTW Spring 2018

Many of the textiles selected by Ayumi Sekiguchi and Yusuke Muramatsu for their spring collection seemed to come from interior design elements, including curtains, upholstery and cushion covers. There was lots of lace, ruffles and scalloped trim on girly dresses and long skirts, while a bathrobe so closely resembled curtains that it even had a rope belt with tasseled ends. The designers also used botanical motifs, with floral accents embroidered onto the sleeves of jackets or the fronts of blouses.

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Memuse RTW Spring 2018

For her debut collection, Risa Aizawa drew inspiration from the neighborhood of Akihabara in Tokyo, which is known as a center of anime, manga and video game culture. She showed both innocent, Lolita-like looks, such as a quilted white dress with flounce sleeves and a bloomers-and-bib combo with a chiffon cape over the top, and darker, edgier pieces like skin-baring black HotPants and crop tops and body-con dresses covered in attached teddy bears. There was even a maid’s outfit, a nod to the fetishized “maid cafes” that are famous in Akihabara.

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2018

Tory Burch’s Sport line is not for the girl who wants to blend in with the legions of fitness fiends clad in black leggings, black sports bras and black tanks with a white swoop here or there. Her line goes big with happy color, for spring, inspired by David Hicks, as was her main line. Burch brought Hick’s florals and bold, graphic color into sport with printed navy and scarlet bomber, an orange and blue sports bra and leggings, and a floral-printed Neoprene zip-up one-piece swimsuit.
It wasn’t just cute. Burch takes the performance aspect of the collection seriously, pushing her staff to infuse technical development into everything, whether it’s Coolmax cashmere sweatpants, a ruffled tennis sweater or golf vest. “I said, ‘Let’s make functionality a given, not a design detail,’” said Burch during a preview. In addition to working with fabrics with wicking, cooling and anti-microbial properties, golf skirts come with under-shorts and pockets big enough for scorecards and a yellow and navy jacket is fully reversible to a waterproof rain slicker. As for the Little Grumps frowny-faced tennis balls that have become a charming brand logo and graced a fresh white oversize sweater, pastel sweatshirts and Ts, well, that

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Black Eye Patch RTW Spring 2018

This brand, designed anonymously, put on a presentation that was part fashion show and part street performance, all set in an old Noh theater. Bikers popped wheelies in branded satin parkas, and skateboarders did laps in hooded sweatshirts, baggy shorts and oversize coats. Athletic influences were seen in track skirts and sweatpants, but the most common denominator were the logos, which were printed prominently on nearly every piece.

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Yukihero Pro-Wrestling RTW Spring 2018

Cowabunga, dudes! Yukihiro Teshima said he wanted to realize one of his childhood dreams with his spring show, and so he got Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles to join in the fun. Cheerleaders jumped around shaking gold pom-poms and threw each other into the air, creating a fun, festivallike atmosphere. The clothes were less exciting, with lots of simple shapes like work-inspired shirts, pants and coveralls, as well as outdoorsy shorts and rain ponchos. Teshima did his best to spice things up with color and quirky prints, including turtles, tiles, pizza and tie-dye.

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Enhance RTW Spring 2018

Masakazu Takeguchi’s first show for Tokyo Fashion Week had a rock concert vibe, with the entire audience standing, the closest members just inches from the raised, narrow runway. The clothes followed a similar vein, with long fringe hanging from tank tops, skirts, trousers and shorts. All-black looks included jeans splattered in white paint, an open-knit sweater and dresses with uneven hems. While overall the look was very street, a variety of blazers and tailored separates added polish.

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AG RTW Spring 2018

AG’s team of designers was inspired by Joan Didion for spring — everything from her personal style and writing, down to certain descriptive words she used in interviews. Didion’s balance of vulnerable writing against a fearlessness in speaking her mind translated into silhouettes that balanced masculine and feminine design, as in a boxy utilitarian jacket, men’s-inspired shirting and rigid denim with raw hems, paint splatter and embroidery. The subdued color palette of washed-down blues, desert tones and green further referenced her writings on nature.

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5-Knot RTW Spring 2018

Ena Kizawa and Taketo Nishino mixed urban and rural influences for spring, showing sweet, pastel gingham skirts and floral blouses alongside slick, plasticky stirrup pants and sparkling crop tops in bright shades of magenta and lemon. For the most part, silhouettes were loose and easy, and chiffon and lace were paired with clear vinyl and metallic fabrics. The offering felt repetitive and would have benefited from a good edit.

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Boss RTW Spring 2018

Going into his fourth year at the helm of Hugo Boss women’s collections, Jason Wu has chosen to simplify, streamline and lighten things up, not only in terms of the collection’s aesthetic but in his approach to presenting it. He’s stepped away from the runway for the past few seasons, presenting in Boss’ downtown Manhattan showroom after the madness of fashion month ends and skipped pre-collection presentations altogether.
“No one needs to see that much clothes,” Wu said. That doesn’t mean he’s not producing. In addition to the spiffy, nautical-themed spring lineup, there’s a new capsule Gallery collection that’s for Boss stores only. It’s full of colorblocking, bright tailored separates and soft pleated skirts.
As for spring, “It’s a lot less dressy and more casual,” he said, noting that he’s been focused on taking the stuffing out of Boss’ signature rigid suiting for the past few seasons, offering the Boss woman a lot in the way of chic and relaxed. The graphic print on a pretty draped and gently pleated dress was actually mini yellow and blue fish. A bright yellow boxy jacket was done in waterproof bonded nylon, like an update of a classic fisherman’s slicker. A neat navy peacoat came

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Elza Winkler RTW Spring 2018

Previously a pattern cutter for Yohji Yamamoto and in charge of tailored jackets and dresses for Alexander McQueen under Sarah Burton, Eiichiro Nakai has undeniable skill at cutting and constructing garments. He showed blazers and full-skirted trenchcoats with voluminous, structured collars, delicate pastel-colored chiffon dresses with high-low hems, and a series of statement gowns covered in crinkled wisps of fabric. It was elegant and sophisticated, even if not particularly new or exciting.

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Keisukeyoshida RTW Spring 2018

Keisuke Yoshida put his own spin on Seventies-inspired staples such as bell-bottoms, blouses with tiny, allover floral prints, and striped tracksuits. He showed jumpsuits with multiple cutouts in the front and up both sides, sometimes tied together with strips of fabric and sometimes left open. There were more conservative looks, too — such as a black-and-white pencil skirt and blouse combo, with a ribbed hem reminiscent of an athletic jacket, but they still fit the overall theme for a fun and cohesive collection.

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Yohei Ohno RTW Spring 2018

Yohei Ohno mixed vinyl, nylon and sheer mesh with natural fabrics such as cotton, linen and seersucker for feminine dresses and skirts, some with cinched waists and exaggerated puff sleeves. While his palette consisted mostly of primary colors and neutrals, there were flashes of silver and gold in a pair of vinyl gloves and a glittering bag.

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BYO RTW Spring 2018

When he was asked to show his BYO handbags in a runway show a few seasons ago, Jakarta-based accessories designer Tommy Ambiyo jumped at the chance, but he was disappointed to see the accessories taking a backseat to the clothes they were shown with. So he decided to create his own wearable pieces that would showcase, not eclipse, his bags.
The result was eye-catching, if not completely wearable, tops made from the same woven plastic and latex as his handbags. The materials were woven together to create clutches and totes, some simple, and some embellished with plastic paillettes and pieces resembling feathers.
In this case, the tops were a colorful complement to the bags, and Ambiyo kept the rest of the styling minimal, sending out models in the same navy skirts and black pumps, with slicked-back hair and no-makeup makeup.
Ambiyo has found success in is home country, selling more than 6,000 bags in the two years since he relaunched his label. He said the vibrant colors were inspired by the solar eclipse, noting, “During an eclipse you see the craziest colors in the sky.”

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The Tick: New Details Revealed on 2018 Season

Peter Serafinowicz and the cast and creators of the Amazon series talk the second half of Season 1.
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Figue RTW Spring 2018

The crisp awning stripes of Positano merged with the rustic coastal flavor of Trancoso, Brazil in Stephanie von Watzdorf’s spring Figue collection. She kept her signature perennially vacation-ready, bohemian staples fresh with new languid kimonos, the coolest one done in pieces of many vibrant prints and voluminous cotton shirts — some striped, some solid, some a mix of prints — that cutaway almost to a dress length. The kimonos and shirts looked great over printed pajama pants and beachy cotton styles jazzed up with tassels but would work just as well with jeans. For accessories, she introduced a fully beaded moccasin sneaker and slip-on sneakers with decorated with fluffy pom-poms.

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Danielle Frankel Bridal Fall 2018

Designer Danielle Frankel debuted her namesake bridal collection for fall 2018 that was both parts refreshing and chic. The offering was filled with fashion, gowns and separates fit for today’s alternative bride.

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Eloshi RTW Spring 2018

Georgian designer Lela Eloshvili straddled antiquity and modernity for spring and the effect was a balance of opposites.
“Eloshi’s collection speaks [to] history,” the designer explained.
Eloshvili has played with proportion in the past with her line and spring was no different. A portion of the runway looks appeared reminiscent of the Eighties with strong shoulders or boxy suiting references against a strong palette of black, white and red.
The inspiration, Eloshvili said, was 20th-century Georgia when women in the country dressed with Western influences.
In contrast, the rest of the collection looked to Georgian history with references to wine-making and traditional clothing. The mood of that portion of the collection was lighter through the use of silk fabrics and natural cotton. Eloshvili created her own prints, mixing imagery of grapes and the Georgian alphabet for a skirt with a fitted bodice that flared out or loose-fitting shirtdress.
She also drew inspiration from the Chokha, a traditional Georgian garment, with elements of the cinched-waist coat used throughout the collection.
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Sav Lavin designer Savira Lavinia, who began in Jakarta, Indonesia, made her Los Angeles debut over the weekend.
Baltimore designer said he’s turned the corner and the Bishme spring line reflects his newfound confidence.
The

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Jeffry Tan RTW Spring 2018

Jakarta-based designer Jeffry Tan is known in Asia for his draped eveningwear inspired by the clean lines of urban architecture. Most of the silhouettes were plays on the bias-cut column dress, several of which he spiced up with diagonal stripes or crisscross straps.
This season, Tan said he was branching out into more streetwear-inspired looks such as slouchy satin trousers, which he paired with sharp-shouldered jackets in silk crepe and satin.
These pieces were more effective than the blousy smocked dresses, which seemed too serious in black yet not formal enough to match the sophistication of the rest of the collection.
While he works in a mostly monochromatic palette, saying, “I’m a bad painter so I’m not good with color,” Tan did have a bright yellow and a fuchsia gown in the lineup. He also used his signature zigzag pattern to add interested to pant legs and side sleeves.
Tan and his fellow Jakarta-based designers were seeking a wider audience in Los Angeles, and many of their evening looks succeeded in generating attention from Hollywood stylists and bloggers.

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Noe Bernacelli RTW Spring 2018

Peruvian designer Noe Bernacelli made his U.S. debut at Los Angeles fashion week, but he’s already well-known in South America and Asia for his glamorous eveningwear. Having studied fashion design in Italy, Bernacelli’s intention when he returned home to found his company seven years ago was to raise the bar for designers in Peru, and the skill of his atelier was apparent in the body-skimming dresses and gowns featuring intricate beading and embroidery over sheer chiffon, mesh and lace. For spring, he stuck with an ivory and gold palette, punctuated by pops of royal blue and dark green. The lineup also featured a handful of well-tailored suits for men, with the same slim silhouettes as his evening gowns. One could easily see these clothes on a Hollywood red carpet — the dresses already populate the society and editorial pages of Hola and Vogue Latin America — and a natural next step would be to translate the already romantic looks into bridal.

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Reem Acra Bridal Fall 2018

Reem Acra’s latest bridal debut included regal gowns paired with ethereal touches a la baby’s breath crowns and accents.

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Marchesa Notte Bridal Fall 2018

Marchesa Notte’s fall 2018 bridal offering felt timeless with modern touches of 3-D floral appliqués, feminine bows and honeycomb lace. The collection mixed elegance with easy through light and airy gowns.

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Naeem Khan Bridal Fall 2018

Naeem Khan infused his bridal collection with a bit of Spanish flair via standout ornate veils, delivering plenty of nontraditional ceremony options along the way, including a glittering jumpsuit that opened the show and an embellished cropped top paired with a full skirt. He ended his runway show on a celebratory note, with models clad in swishy mini cocktail numbers dancing in a disco-lit reception.

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Gauchère RTW Spring 2018

Marie-Christine Statz found a new fabric to explore with this season: lace. But not the fluffy, dusty kind from granny’s closet, this was technical lace, a chic, black grid that projected a sporty look.
Statz used it to construct a sleeveless dress that gently puffed out from a gathered waist, paired with long, loose black trousers — proof that the collision between daywear and nightwear can actually work.
There was also plenty for the day job, including suits with layers, slits and buttons. The trousers on one pair could be transformed into long, wide shorts, it was just a case of tackling the ring of buttons at the knees.
“I think it’s about easy simplicity….I wanted it to not be overdramatic. This is the woman I can somehow relate to,” Statz noted. She drove the point home with her use of a fine, light gray wool that formed part of the masculine-feminine mix of this engaging collection.

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Pink Announces 2018 Tour and Drops New Single From Her Album All in One Day

Pink, iHeartRadio Music Festival BTS photosRaise your glass because Pink is going on tour.
The Grammy-winning singer announced her Beautiful Trauma World Tour 2018 Thursday morning.
According to a press release, the…

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Leal Daccarett RTW Spring 2018

For the second Parisian presentation of their brand Leal Daccarett, Colombian designers Karen Daccarett and Francisco Leal offered a flirtatiously Latin collection that steered clear of clichés while tapping into its home country and its layered, dance-filled heritage.
Established in 2008, the brand helmed by the married duo became a fast favorite of the current First Lady of Colombia, María Clemencia De Santos, who was spotted wearing their designs on state visits, most notably to Spain and the U.K.
La Fantástica, their summer line, ranged from bathing suits to floor-length dresses — whether these were exuberant daywear or low-key evening fare was left up to the wearer. With just enough froth to make it fun, the collection had denims adorned with charming character patches or coral pieces; a blue denim set of a long jacket and wide trousers embellished with raw-edged ruffles; tiered dresses in a navy and white palm print, and long caftans. Cottons, silk and denim came together in a palette of blues and whites.
“It’s a proud moment to be Colombian, and we’re showing who we are and how comfortable we are with that,” Leal said during a showroom appointment.

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Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2018

The fashion bubble. We all know what it means: that from right after Labor Day until whatever date in early October, our lives are consumed by fashion. Sorry, friends; life partners; kids starting school, whether pre-K or college, fashion takes priority, the most important thing.
Only we all know that that’s not really true, that many things are far more important than fashion. Just ask anyone in the industry who was on the show circuit on Sept. 11, 2001. On Monday, a day of unimaginable tragedy in the U.S., Paris Fashion Week went on, the fashion throng assembling for the Alexander McQueen show as the Las Vegas death toll mounted. There’s no good way to transition to a fashion review, but to not acknowledge the event feels wildly uncomfortable.
Backstage before her show, McQueen’s Sarah Burton talked about her desire to deliver an optimistic collection, a notion expressed by a number of designers this season. “So many terrible things happen in the world. We should celebrate people and fashion and creativity,” she said. “I wanted to celebrate beauty and femininity. I wanted to do an uplifting collection.”
And so she did, an exquisite one based on English gardens, specifically the gardens at Great

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Sacai RTW Spring 2018

Every season Chitose Abe draws on different references to dice and dissect into her signature hybrid fashions. In that sense, the collections never look the same but there is a deep consistency. This time the look felt genuinely new. It was a fabulous collection — pretty, fresh, fun, cool, wearable. All the good stuff.
It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what Abe did differently. The hybridizations were still there, in jackets and skirts pieced together from colorful strips of men’s wear glen plaid. A riff on a men’s vest was made into a sporty dress assembled from patches of camouflage, nylon and pinstripes. And a crewneck sweater was spliced with a piece of a madras shirt and florals.
Infused with a fresh, feel-good attitude, the garments felt lighter and easier than usual despite intense constructions. One of the best looks was a long skirt made from panels of different fabrics — a piece of a trench sewn together with a piece of flowy pleated magenta fabric, green satin and light blue shirting material, creating a rainbow of a garment paired with a simple, sporty tank printed with the words “Beware It’s Everywhere.” Backstage after the show, Abe, who was wearing a T-shirt with

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Talbot Runhof RTW Spring 2018

Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof expressed a serene state of mind through a collection featuring clean, lean shapes with a strong Seventies vibe.
That wasn’t the only thing the decade provided. Shantung, one fabric of the season, evoked a zen feeling, while the flower-power connection was impossible to miss. Blooms climbed on everything, starting with 3-D flowers on a poplin shirt, to embroidered crystal motifs along the waist of a dress, lending their color palette of white, greens and brights.
Despite an overwhelming turquoise floral jacquard, the collection ended up coming across as pared back, even in the evening styles they are famed for. The best looks were those that struck a glamorous note: a short-sleeved pantsuit in golden yellow, a turquoise shiftdress, wide white trousers and a multilayered blue evening dress.

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Alessandra Rich RTW Spring 2018

Alessandra Rich always concocts a charmingly daffy story, usually of a young girl with big dreams and questionable taste, within which to frame her ditzy-fab dresses. For spring it began with the iconic “V-J Day in Times Square” photo of a sailor impulsively kissing a nurse (she was actually a dental assistant) in celebration of the end of the Second World War. Rich had a new story for the nurse: “The young girl moved on, she still loves uniforms, matched with diamond brooches and huge jewel buttons, but now you’re going to have to fight to kiss her,” read the show notes, which were as fun and fanciful as the collection.
As the girl moved on, Rich did too, expanding beyond her standard repertoire of glam, gauche dresses with military-inspired tailoring and posh but plucky tweeds. A blue admirals jacket was done with rhinestone buttons instead of brass and a cheekier — literally — version was cut just below the bum and worn as a dress. Although worn with geek-chic glasses with gold chain-link lanyards, Rich’s tweed jackets were more suited to a day at the pool than the library as they came in candy colors and were worn with HotPants.
The

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Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2018

Now the cool boys in Isabel Marant’s entourage can rest easy: The French designer has finally come through with men’s wear, and it’s here to stay. “I gave in to popular demand,” she admitted backstage, saying the campaign had been going on since her popular H&M hookup four years ago. The guys were offered thick gauge knits that poured over their shoulders like treacle, Windbreakers and toothsome trackpants, with rope flip-flops or slides on the feet.
But back to the girls. The show started with crisp white: frilled shirts; ingénue broderie anglaise minidresses; denim with circular patterns piercing the legs; a double-breasted jacket tucked into trousers that were loose on the thigh and tight at the ankle. Sporty details started to crop up.
By midway point, the collection hit its stride, brash colors and metallic materials bringing a sporty-glam mien: boiler suits rolled down to reveal swimwear; trackpants were cut from shimmery florals and paired with voluminous tops; lightweight blousons could pass for shirtdresses, and high-cut briefs had the aplomb of daring shorts. Whenever she went too high on the leg and too voluminous on the sleeve, it didn’t quite work, like wearing stilettos to the beach. Performance water sports details —

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Apple Interested in Advanced LCDs for Some iPhones in 2018

Apple has expressed interest in buying advanced liquid-crystal displays from Japan Display for some iPhones next year, a sign the technology has life despite competition from a newer type of display.
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Manish Arora RTW Spring 2018

Manish Arora was in an amorous mood for spring. His pastel-infused “Ready for Love” collection was a joyous riot of vintage-inspired psychedelic prints, elaborate embroideries, rich Indian brocades, sequined motifs and Middle Eastern references.
Luxurious sleepwear-inspired designs with a dream-catcher pattern mingled with guipure gowns covered in hearts, kitschy embellished knitwear and embroidered denim jackets. Sequined boxer shorts, pants and dresses, brocade or printed bombers and a chain-mail top made up of interlinked embroidered hands all contributed to the festivities.
The designer’s romantic message was sewn in sequins on a couple of looks, adding a touch of street into this maelstrom of candy-colored extravagance.
Skirts and dresses came in mid-calf and floor-length designs, either flowing or wrapped around the body. The transparency that is all over the Paris runways was interpreted in washed out fluorescent or gold layers of tulle that softened up certain looks.
Arora managed to evoke femininity and frivolity in one fell swoop with this rainbow of a collection, a welcome ray of sunshine in contrast with the rainy Paris day outside.

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Y/Project RTW Spring 2018

Glenn Martens didn’t reinvent what he’s been doing at Y/Project for his spring collection, but he did cast a new eye on the quintessential dorky dad in his Hawaiian shirt and khakis; the goody-two shoes country club girl in her pink cardigan, white blouse and pearls; and the Nineties suburban kid who listened to rap in his fleece, jeans and Timberlands. Martens gave these uniforms of mundanity, conformity and complete lack of imagination a new lease on life. Even the natty, shapless faded red polo worn to death by an endearingly clueless goof I was smitten with a few years ago had hope in Martens’ hands. It was reimagined as a crop top with a drawstring waist and worn over bunched tulle pants.
Taking what’s familiar and basic way out of its comfort zone is Martens’ gift and goal. It’s within the universe of what Demna Gvasalia started Vetements with, but Martens’ vision is far more romantic. “Y/Project is always about individuality and reinforcing personality and characters,” he said backstage. “Sometimes on the catwalk you see different kind of women, but sometimes also all these women are new.” He gave play-the-rules stereotypes permission to break the mold, cutting a pair of

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Jacquemus RTW Spring 2018

Mom. The first influencer. At some point, many designers offer overt homage. Simon Porte Jacquemus did so initially by taking his mother’s maiden name, Jacquemus, for his collection. For spring, he celebrated a specific element of her style. “I don’t think I ever saw my mother more beautiful than on evenings after the beach and probably when she was in love,” he wrote in his program notes. Mother and son would take a walk, visiting “souvenir shops filled with earrings, ceramics, sarongs and headbands.” “La bombe,” he called her archetype.
La bombe’s vibe of upbeat, beach-y glamour defined the collection, “the idea of going down to the harbor after a long day at the beach and wanting to feel beautiful,” Jacquemus said post-show. Yet he presented in the glorious Picasso Museum, perhaps to telegraph that these clothes are polished enough for any urban situation. While so many other designers, young and not so, are racing to do street, Jacquemus’s theme let him have it both ways – dressing down as a way of dressing up, keeping the attitude cool and the look hot. What’s more relaxed than artfully mismatched drop earrings and, for heels, whimsical geometric configurations? What’s sexier that a swimsuit reimagined

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Edithmarcel RTW Spring 2018

Old Greece and streetwear informed Gianluca Ferracin and Andrea Masato’s unisex collection Edithmarcel. The former was recalled via the use of color — the red and blue reminiscent of old Greece — while the use of materials such as denim, jersey, cotton and technical fabrics brought the streetwear sensibility into the lineup. In terms of cuts, everything read casual, almost uniform like. “We printed our logo in everything from jackets to dress shirts — its genderless; pants and skirts have elastic waistbands, jackets are fluid, shirts have that boyfriend fit,” explained Ferracin, who has a fashion design background, while his partner Masato comes from the architecture field.
 

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Trussardi RTW Spring 2018

Gaia Trussardi’s spring collection, the first for which she combined men’s and women’s on the runway, was a nice display of how a leather goods house can translate its main material into clothes. She used a flight motif — airplanes, parachutes, Amelia Earhart — to frame chic bomber jackets, airy parachute dresses, and utility tailoring, such as shirts, leather shorts, jumpsuits and smartly cut trenches. Some of the pieces were leather and suede, but not all. Trussardi used it as an accent on skirts spliced with leather strips. At times sensual — dresses had cutout backs and shirts were shown open over bra tops — the lineup had an alluring relaxed polish.
 

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Vionnet RTW Spring 2018

Before a stitch of clothing was seen on the runway, Vionnet’s spring show was a coup for Goga Ashkenazi. She managed to secure as a venue Milan’s church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, where, behind a wall in the cloisters where the show was held, sits one of the most famous works of art in the history of man: The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. A private tour of the painting was offered for guests after the show. That Ashkenazi was able to convince the head priest to lend her such a hallowed space for a fashion show — the first ever to take place there — is a testament to her chutzpah, which is the force driving the oil and gas executive to resuscitate the house of Vionnet.
Her spring collection was proof that she’s come a long way on the steep fashion learning curve since taking over the house. Despite the show venue, da Vinci codes in the collection were tenuous. “For me, Madeleine Vionnet was timeless and da Vinci was timeless,” Ashkenazi said backstage. Rather, the lineup was born mostly from an obsession with Bushido, Japanese samurai culture, which lent itself nicely to Vionnet’s signature draping. Long,

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Rossella Jardini RTW Spring 2018

Rossella Jardini’s mix of feminine elegance and ironic playfulness was clearly in evidence in her spring 2018 collection. The classic white shirt served as the starting point for the whole lineup. The staple was re-interpreted in an array of variations. A crisp cotton shirt featured seductive cutouts at the shoulders and was matched with a skirt trimmed with ruffles. Another micro striped style with a patch pocket was knotted below the bust and matched with a circle skirt. Shirt dresses included a short, flared style worked in a polka dot pattern, as well as a maxi number splashed with a graphic, pop motif of stars and hearts. The “Jardinette” print, featuring artist Antonio Pippolini’s colorful sketched portraits of Jardini, gave a playful touch to an airy silk dress embellished with a drawstring at the waist. With its easy silhouettes, chic colors and feminine touches, the collection definitely enables Jardini to proclaim, as she did on one of her T-shirts for spring: “I’m the most elegant woman I know!”

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MIZUHO: Here's why Facebook has 'a realistic opportunity' to enter China in 2018

MIZUHO: Here's why Facebook has 'a realistic opportunity' to enter China in 2018Facebook has a “realistic opportunity” to enter China in 2018, Mizuho analyst James Lee wrote in a note to clients on Tuesday. Lee came to the conclusion after meeting “various industry contacts” in China during a recent trip. Facebook’s recent appointment of an executive to manage relations with China will help the company “understand the regulatory requirement and negotiate Facebook’s operating structure in China,” said Lee in the note, a copy of which was obtained by Business Insider.



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The Gigi RTW Spring 2018

Ana Gimeno Brugada demonstrated her sophisticated color sensibility with a charming collection that leaned heavily on her personal style, which focuses on a mannish attitude softened by lively feminine accents. Playing with garment dyeing, she created degrade effects on a pair of sky blue cotton pants matched with a coordinated ruffled shirt. The set was worn with a chic orange velvet blazer embellished with buttons embossed with the image of a crown. A blue jacket trimmed in white was worn over a cotton shirt and a cropped sweater and was matched with floral jacquard oversized short pants, infused with a tomboy feel. A glossy finish gave an interesting look to a yellow trench paired with purple pants and a striped jumper. Gimeno Brugada managed to infuse new energy into traditional silhouettes, which should appeal to those women who don’t shy away from bold colors.

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Amanda Wakeley RTW Spring 2018

Amanda Wakeley has a friend who upped sticks and moved to Uraguay, bought a ranch and now splits her time between London and riding horses in the South American wild. Pictures of her friend on horseback and musings on her new way of life were the basis for Wakeley’s spring collection, which was rich with subtle references to the Americas.
Bright flashes of sunshine yellow freshened the black, white and khaki palette, while nods to traditional gaucho and Romani gypsy costumes were seen in the whipstitching on the wide straps of bags, striped webbing belts that cinched dresses, and in bohemian silk peasant blouses.
But this is Amanda Wakeley. There was nothing quaint or Spaghetti Western about these looks. Wakeley’s woman is more luxe feminine boho than frontier trading post settler. A white silk peasant blouse trimmed with a fine black ribbon at the neck was teamed with a pair of wide-legged pants in a sporty black-and-white stripe, and belted with a yellow striped sash, while a fluid silk gown in a black, white and yellow scarf print conveyed ethnicity without approaching pastiche.
Jumpsuits with field pockets on the chest in khaki or white looked great and added a nice utilitarian vibe, while

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Faustine Steinmetz RTW Spring 2018

For Faustine Steinmetz’s first foray on the runway, the Parisian-born designer focused on reworking classic wardrobe pieces such as a trenchcoat, denim jeans and a tracksuit.
“I want to show what the brand is about,” said Steinmetz. “I wanted to take ten pieces of clothing that everyone has had and just redo [them]. Deconstruct [them]. Show [them] in lots of different ways but always keeping the same patterns. It’s called facsimile. We photocopied the patterns of these pieces and then got creative with the fabric. The concept is to re-create everyday pieces, in our own way and make them special.”
She cleverly demonstrated her artisanal craftsmanship, taking traditional silhouettes and fusing her own techniques and finishes on sustainable materials.
The designer took apart a trenchcoat which was haphazardly cut and torn and worn over a satin white dress that had a deconstructed hem. Steinmetz hand-painted another overcoat style with slick oil paints, which gave it a slightly shiny and waxed effect.
Elsewhere, she injected florals and deconstructed a long scarf with a botanical print and fashioned it as a blouse by draping the soft fabric over shoulders and held together with invisible straps. This was paired with denim jeans.
She debuted men’s wear and created

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Front Row At Versus RTW Spring 2018

VIDEO STAR: Lottie Moss looks set to join the ranks in the vlogosphere. “I get so many people [on Instagram] asking what I’m wearing and what makeup I’m using that I thought people might like it if I did videos that show my fashion and beauty choices,” she said.
The model was recently  in L.A. to work on a big project that, so far, she’s keeping mum about. She tacked on a short break with a friend and played tour guide. “She’d never been to Los Angeles before so I showed her all the sights – Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Malibu. It was cool.”

Lottie Moss 
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While there, she posted a picture of herself in a tiny bikini by Same Swim that followed a video of her working out doing a side plank. One begets the other, really. “I try to see my trainer, three to four times a week,” she said. “We work hard! Sometimes it’s boxing and skipping, sometimes weights. Always different.”
Her front row neighbors included singer-songwriter Ne-Yo, who spent the pre-show moments making silly faces into his phone while taking selfies, and FKA Twigs, who had a refreshingly straightforward reason for braving the anti-fur protestors outside to attend the show,

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Temperley London RTW Spring 2018

The bohemian, sunsets and summer parties-loving Alice Temperley tribe saw a poetic display of the designer’s ultra-feminine silhouettes and signature artisanal patterns. It’s true that at times this formula gets a too literal translation – although one that is never too hard to look at – but for spring, the designer gave her loyal followers something more grown-up, more thoughtful to live with.
The show opened with a halter-neck dress composed of more graphic folksy patterns. The early Fifties came to mind, perhaps set somewhere on a breezy island off the Mediterranean coast. There were no unnecessary frills or flounces, just a humble buttoned silhouette in blue, white and red with a matching head wrap.
The looks that followed, including breezy shirt and wrap dresses, were more elaborate in style, some boasting prints that harkened back to vintage pottery patterns from the Provence, but Temperley tamed them with little belts cinched tightly at the waist. No vertiginous heels here either, just a pair of flat-form knotted sandals to suit a woman who might be on vacation, but still has an agenda.
There was an interesting take on the pajama look, too, which comprised a wide-legged, cropped trouser and flow-y shirt-blazer, letting off a

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Markus Lupfer RTW Spring 2018

A Slim Aarons photo came to life at Markus Lupfer’s cheerfully decadent spring presentation. The only difference was his girls had more fun at the imaginary pool – and with their clothing. Picture them tucking  their printed cabana shirts into high-waist briefs and parading in translucent dresses with floral appliqués that were modeled after vintage swimming caps.
All the while, mischievous little monkeys were swinging from vines on a print used for retro-tinged pool turbans and the set’s boisterous furniture.
It all felt a little naughty, but made sophisticated via Lupfer’s luxurious use of fabric. He employed pleated georgette for colorful skirts that were veiled with black organza, oozing  a chic and entertaining air. Twin sets matched with Chevron knits were fetching. Once came with knitted drawstring shorts and platform sandals that were fastened with straps in the shape of jewelled parrots and sequinned rainbows.
With everything being so serious lately, Lupfer said he just wanted to have fun and see life in color again. “This is for the hedonistic girl, addicted to excess, who enjoys life,” he said of his fun-loving tableau.

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Front Row at Nicopanda RTW Spring 2018

SEALED AND DELIVERED: Fresh off the runway at House of Holland, Jazzelle Zanaughtti was raving about Nicola Formichetti’s project with Amazon, which arguably resulted in the fastest delivery in retail history on Saturday night, following the designer’s spring show for Nicopanda.
“How you can order the clothes right off the runway and they show up an hour later — that’s crazy! We are really living in the future. I just loved how [the models] came out carrying the boxes. Such a cool walk,” enthused Zanaughtti, seated front row at the show. The gender-bending model, who features in Asos.com’s new beauty campaign, said she was still getting used to seeing her face on a large poster. “I’ve never been on a billboard before, and now it’s on buses, too,” she grinned, flashing her gold grill.
Alex Pettyfer, meanwhile, brushed off his model credentials, which have stuck to him for years. “I did Burberry — like once, ten years ago,” he said.
No doubt, the actor has moved on. He is currently editing “Back Roads,” a drama based on Tawni O’Dell’s New York Times bestseller of the same name, which will mark his directional debut. “It was a very humbling experience to be on the other side,”

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Orla Kiely RTW Spring 2018

Orla Kiely referenced the Seventies R&B group The Pointer Sisters for spring. The designer looked to the cover of the songstress’ self-titled album, which was released in May 1973 and to later songs such as “Jump,” “Neutron Dance” and “I’m So Excited.”
“I’m loving how they were nostalgically dressing in this tropical, Forties eccentric style,” said Kiely. “It was very eccentric, a tropical Seventies take on the Forties.”
The collection was filled with fun, ladylike dresses done in exuberant floral patterns. This season, the designer looked to more grown-up silhouettes with some hemlines below the knee and dresses nipped at the waist.
Among the standouts was a bronze ochre floral dress that was slightly fitted at the waist and accented with a subtle trim of soft ruffles along the shoulder and waistline. A bold green printed romper was cropped above the ankle and festooned with shiny gold buttons down the chest.
Kiely also experimented with contrasting prints, pairing a peplum waist blouse in her Lily Pad print with a flower-print skirt that hit below the knee. Texture and embellishment were important this season, too: A smock dress with bell sleeves had ribbon embroideries across the chest. Kiely worked with a rich palette of bronze

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Peter Jensen RTW Spring 2018

Peter Jensen picked up where he left off last season, taking his cue from the late American actress Sandy Dennis’ style.
“She’s really chic,” said Jensen. “When you see the films, she stands out as being very chic and modern even though they’re old films of the Sixties and Seventies.”
His playfully quirky range echoed the eccentric charm of the “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?” star. Jensen harked back to the Sixties and early Seventies silhouettes with his colorful collection that was filled with feminine dresses and pared-back separates with whimsical prints.
Jensen experimented with treatments such as an over-dyed and over-washed calico – which he called an underrated fabric – for a roomy shift dress in lilac or a cool black boiler suit.
An image of Dennis’ hands was translated into a graphic print that appeared on a ladylike sleeveless dress with a rounded cutout at the back. The designer also referenced his muse’s love of felines – Dennis once owned 37 cats – with a hand-drawn cat print on a three–quarter sleeve, knee–length dress and skirt.
Sixties references came on color-block shift dresses, sweatshirts and a skirt that was paired with a boldly-hued, slightly oversized knit sweater. Elsewhere, the designer’s signature bunny motif

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All of the Empowering Moments at Fashion Week Spring 2018

ESC: Chromat, Hunter McGradyFashion Week gave us several reasons to smile this season.
For the last seven days, acclaimed designers did what they do best, sending creative, dynamic and, at times, eccentric new…

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All of the Empowering Moments at Fashion Week Spring 2018

ESC: Chromat, Hunter McGradyFashion Week gave us several reasons to smile this season.
For the last seven days, acclaimed designers did what they do best, sending creative, dynamic and, at times, eccentric new…

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Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2018

He’s not leaving. Period. End of story.
An exasperated Marc Jacobs made that declaration — again — when asked if his finale music carried a message of goodbye. After his models walked the perimeter of the cavernous Park Avenue Armory in total silence, they reemerged to a piece from Alfredo Catalani’s opera “La Wally.” In part, it translates, “Ah, well, then! I shall go far away.”
“It’s not ironic, it’s not sarcastic, it’s not a goodbye,” Jacobs said of the musical choice. “It’s from the cult classic Eighties French New Wave film ‘Diva,’ which I love. I don’t know how to win. I’m not that versed in opera. I’m much more versed in film. Steve Mackey, who does the music, and I thought it was a beautiful piece of music. I didn’t even know the translation. Sometimes an aria is just an aria.”
And sometimes, a fashion show delivers major fashion. “There’s tons [going on],” Jacobs said. Indeed. He insisted that the collection had no deep, intellectual or conceptual springboard. It clearly progressed from last season’s ode to hip-hop style. “We’re calling the whole thing ‘Somewhere’ — from Sofia [Coppola]’s movie,” he said. “But also, last season was all about this urban landscape,

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Calvin Luo RTW Spring 2018

Calvin Luo may be young, but his work shows a sophistication beyond his years.
The recent Parsons School of Design graduate was the youngest designer to present in the official New York Fashion Week calendar when he unveiled his collection three seasons ago; for his fourth outing, Luo continued to refine what had created buzz in the past.
Before the official runway show began, Luo presented male and female models in super lightweight pajamalike outfits made from a temperature-sensing heating fabric Luo created that changes color when heated.
But the real draw was his distinct take on what he described as a “skater-girl-turned-whimsy-woman.” The story started with some sporty references such as hoodies, tanks, cropped tops and skirts with drawstring details and finished with elaborate knit dresses and a strapless blue metallic evening gown.
The line continued to showcase his propensity for deconstruction, especially as it applied to sleeves.
Although his past collections have explored more gender-fluid looks, this season showed more delineation between the sexes, at least as far as the women’s looks were concerned.
Dresses were flirty and feminine with ruching and ruffles and tulle insets on pencil skirts. But the guys’ looks were more “asexual,” Luo said, such as tan shorts with smocking

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Anna Sui Spring 2018

We all shine on. Or at least Anna Sui wants us to.
The collection Sui showed Monday night harkened back to a time not too long ago but seemingly ancient, a time when the youth movement du jour was about spreading love and seeking community, and everyone did it in pretty piled-on prints. Oh, the good old days.
“It’s a be-in,” Sui said backstage after the show. “We all have to be there because I think we need to focus on the beautiful, the positive — glitter and sparkles and being happy.”
The show opened in the dark with Sui’s models taking a stroll, a coed, cross-generational counterculture (remember counterculture?) bohemian brigade, including Kirsten Owen and Maggie Rizer (hardly ready for elder Earth Mother status, but they made the point) and several children. It closed with a girl with kaleidoscope eyes on the soundtrack and a girl with a missing platform shoe on the runway, her sister helping her negotiate the finale walk. (You’ve seen it by now: Bella supporting Gigi.) Two displays of what family can mean, one scripted construct, one accidental-yet-perfect punctuation.
Between the two: A Seventies fashion lovefest. Showing against a big here-comes-the-sun medallion, Sui drew from an overdrawn well and

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Christian Siriano Spring 2018 Proves Fashion Is for Everyone

NYFW, Gina Gershon, Danielle Brooks, Cardi B, Christian Siriano, Leslie Jones, Cardi B, Models, Patricia Clarkson“I usually don’t pay attention anymore.”
When it comes to any outside flack, that’s Christian Siriano’s response. The 31-year-old designer, who opened the doors to his…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Simon Miller RTW Spring 2018

The Congolese rainforest — vibrant with the colors of flowers, plants and animals — inspired Simon Miller’s spring collection. Vivid hues, including pink, yellow and blue, gave an energetic, positive vibe to the clothes, which were cut mostly in loose, comfortable silhouettes. Natural fabrics, such as organic cotton and linen, enhanced the nature-friendly appeal of the lineup, which was presented in a venue filled with flowers and tropical plants. Wide-legged pants were matched with roomy, cropped sweaters and elongated, softly tailored jackets. The image of an abstract bird was printed on fluid silk separates, while a pretty yellow suit was crafted from lamb leather with a paperlike effect. Creative directors Chelsea Hansford and Daniel Corrigan were also influenced by the works of abstract painter Leonardo Urso; he inspired the paint-rolled denim pants trimmed with a plissé insert. Introducing a more urban, sleeker vibe into the collection, the designers delivered patent-leather skinny pants and a dark indigo bustier top worn with matching pants for a touch of feminine sensuality.

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Monse RTW Spring 2018

It’s still early in the week and the season in general, but there’s a micro trend of patriotism coming out of New York Fashion Week. After several news cycles fueled by headlines about New York’s top fashion talent defecting for a brighter City of Light, those who have stayed put are using their runways to show their American pride. Monse’s Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim are happy to be here. “We love this country. It’s the only reason we’ve been able to succeed this much,” said Garcia during a preview. “We’re celebrating showing here.”
They littered the collection with peppy stars and stripes and red-white-and-blue, but it wasn’t a Fourth of July parade. The broader theme was back-to-school, with collegiate sport references offering a solid, steady lens through which to filter updates on the brand’s signatures and hit on retailer-baiting trends. Chiced-up track pants, riffs on varsity jackets and twisted Oxford shirting abounded.
All three of those items hit critical mass trend-wise a while ago. Making them feel new was surely a challenge, yet Garcia and Kim pulled the looks into their world, stamping them with what has become a very strong house aesthetic. A classic striped men’s shirt was turned backwards

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New York Fashion Week Spring 2018: Best Celeb Street Style Looks

ESC: Street Style, Hailey BaldwinWhile fashion week is all about what’s happening on the runways, sometimes the coolest trends can be found off the catwalk.
With celebs, supermodels and industry insiders flocking to…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2018

Genuine provocation — there’s not enough of it in fashion. Raf Simons is determined to show us what we’ve been missing. He arrived at 205 West 39th Street, Calvin Klein’s longtime address and recently renamed, at his behest, Collection label, determined to tackle large questions of cultural resonance via the fashion genre. After two collections, it’s clear that Simons’ approach is to mine broad-stroke aspects of American culture, whether out of respect, curiosity or a yen to telegraph to skeptics (if any exist), his appropriateness for the creative helm of one of the great bastions of American fashion.
On Thursday night, the room was abuzz. Guests milled about, some in states of anticipatory glee, others in confused pursuit of their seats, as numerous tablet-wielding staffers had no clue about the room’s alphabetical arrangement. “Do you know where D is?” one guest asked a third floor guide. The answer: “No, but I’ll try to find it.”
Hence, a prolonged stroll under Sterling Ruby’s latest collaboration with Simons, the rafters now hung with colorful, exaggerated pompoms and banners representing the cheery high school life, but with grim sightings — an axe here or there — interrupting the frivolity. Sinister forces have a way of infiltrating

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Tom Ford Spring 2018 RTW

F—ing Fabulous. To Tom Ford, it’s more than a naughty-kitsch fragrance name intended to titillate, one that triggered an Instagram frenzy when bottles of the juice arrived with his show invitations. To Ford, f—ing fabulous is a standard of living. Once upon a time, he aspired to it. Now, he’ll settle for nothing less.
Ford’s fashion show on Wednesday night, the first mega event of the spring 2018 season, dripped in FF. The venue, an enclave of allure installed into the Park Avenue Armory, featured a tall white enclosure bathed in purple light and spritzed with you-know-what scent, the floor an expanse of pale carpeting, wantonly unprotected, no cheesy plastic pre-show covering here. It recalled the Tom Ford of yore, particularly his early Yves Saint Laurent shows. To make the cavernous, utilitarian Armory reference the Rodin Museum — no easy feat. As for the guest list — high wattage, filled with actors, artists, actors, influencers, a bevy of cross-generational models and Kim Kardashian.
Also classic Ford: The calculated decadence, rendered in a split between athletic-derived sportswear and power-woman goddess gowns. “I’ve been living in L.A. and people wear sports clothes in the daytime, and in the evening they wear mega eveningwear,” Ford

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Tse RTW Spring 2018

Tse is a quiet collection at its core. No matter how advanced the stitchwork gets, the mood remains one of calm and comfortable chic. So it was for spring, for which the design team infused the crisp range of white, putty, red and black knits and wovens with textural techniques inspired by the work of Ghanian artist El Anatsui, who is known for his suspended paintings. This played well on a black dress and top constructed from a mesh of woven circles and a soft nude top done in tacked-together squares. Otherwise, the collection was filled with breezy, sporty pieces that are probably as comfy as sweats but nowhere near as casual.

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New York Fashion Tech Lab Inks Accenture Deal for 2018 Partnership

New York Fashion Tech Lab has signed on Accenture as a partner for the 2018 program.
Springboard Enterprises founded NYFT Lab in 2013 with the support of retailers and fashion brands to help grow women-led emerging tech companies at the intersection of fashion, retail and technology. The company this year completed its fourth annual accelerator program. There’s some funding for the program from Springboard and the Partnership Fund for New York City, but most of the funding is from within the industry. That allows industry sponsors to learn about new tech ideas and work as mentors to further develop the ideas that they are most interested in.
Senior managing director at Accenture Jill Standish, who leads the company’s Retail Industry practice globally, said that with retailers and brands being disrupted by online “pure plays,” she sees Accenture’s role as partner with NYFT Lab to help the 2018 class participants more quickly accelerate their innovations to “better serve and connect consumers to the fashion industry.”
For the 2017 class, founding members J. Crew and Macy’s continued to participate in the program. Returning for the second year as tech partner was Microsoft. Also returning were second and third-year partners Bloomingdale’s and Kohl’s. New this year was

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Resort 2018 Trend: Straw Pole

 Accessories designers plied their creativity into raffia and wicker designs for resort.

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Men’s Spring 2018 Trend: Clash Act

The legendary style of Nineties’ leading men from cult-classic movies such as “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas” and “Ace Ventura Pet Detective” is among the inspirations for spring — where the Hawaiian shirt is at the heart of the ultimate geeky look.
 

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DDUOGOFF Men’s Spring 2018

Daniel DuGoff used a trip to Taipei with the CFDA Incubator program to form the foundation of his men’s collection.
DuGoff, who studied architecture before working for Patrik Ervell and Marc Jacobs, said on the trip he was able to experience the urban grit of Taipei along with the tropical landscapes of Yangmingshan National Park, which is located outside of the city.
DuGoff used those contrasts to present a minimal lineup of classic men’s sportswear energized with color — green, mustard, white and navy — and prints including plaid, an abstracted window pane and a hazy leaf print.
High notes from the collection included the short shorts, which mimicked the silhouette of a swim trunk but were made from shirting material, the Fifties-inspired knot polos with embroidery on the chest, and the hooded jacket made from cotton and nylon grosgrain.
DuGoff has said his primary goal is to produce easy clothes that men will want to wear on an everyday basis. He accomplished that goal with this lineup and also introduced some new pieces into his customer’s wardrobe.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The

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Tribeca Film Festival Sets 2018 Dates

The Tribeca Film Festival has set its 2018 dates, lining up a 12-day run in April for the 17th annual New York City festival. Submission deadlines have also been mapped out, with creators able this year to submit features and shorts through the digital system Withoutabox. Submissions in all fields, including features, T.V., immersive and… Read more »

Variety

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Resort 2018 Trend: Officially Chic

The trenchcoat has come a long way since it made its debut as a protective garment for Army officers, and interpretations for resort focused on timeless style, function and chic.

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Super Bowl 2018: Who might perform at the half-time show?

From Christina to Kanye, a look at which performers could be next year’s half-time act.
BBC News – Entertainment & Arts

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Pirelli Calendar 2018 Features Black Cast Made Up of RuPaul, Diddy, Naomi Campbell and More

RuPaul, Pirelli Calendar 2018The new annual Pirelli Calendar looks different.
The 2018 edition features an all-black cast, shot by photographer Tim Walker. The theme: Alice in Wonderland.
Model Duckie Thot…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2018

Young fashion brands can learn a thing or two from Parke & Ronen.
The men’s swimwear label celebrated its 20th anniversary on Wednesday with a heartwarming — and mildly nostalgic — runway show that showcased exactly how sticking to one aesthetic — and nailing it — can lead to a long life.
The brand seamlessly mixed some of its greatest hits with an assortment of new styles of swimsuits and casual sportswear to the strains of John Denver’s “Rocky Mountain High,” the inspiration for the season for designers Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel.
“We’ve done beaches and pools, now it’s off to the lake,” said Lutter.
The soft colors, wildflowers and pristine backdrop of the mountains were showcased in a variety of lightweight jackets, mesh tanks and drawstring linen pants.
The casual sportswear component of the collection also worked well in cotton twill shorts, breezy chambray shirts and knit tops. Lutter pointed to the mint double-face linen trouser and the lamb-suede camp shorts as his favorites.
And then there was the swimwear.
Everything from tiny bikinis to the two-, three-, four- and even five-inch trunks in a variety of prints and patterns turned heads.
“For me, to be able to go back into our archives and realize that

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Matiere Men’s Spring 2018

For its first runway show, Matiere took a step in the right direction this season with a spring collection titled “Reflections.”
“It was about taking a step back and reflecting on what was working for us as an emerging brand and what the market wants,” said the designer Scot Shandalove backstage.
Bringing a bit of shape into the mix, he offered up more voluminous silhouettes this time around, in elongated shorts, wide-tailored bombers and an anorak with a dropped shoulder for a roomier fit — all of which succeeded in creating a cleaner look.
True mavens when it comes to fabric selection, the lineup consisted of a combination of true athleti wear and luxe loungewear by utilizing Italian reflective fabrics in outerwear, crinkled water-resistant elongated jackets and a Japanese high-shine, short-sleeved anorak with paneled technical mesh.
By offering up a true California vibe, Matiere is really propelling the ethos of the brand to a cool yet functional tech lounge-y aesthetic.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used

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Pirelli’s 2018 Calendar Is a Twisted, Sexy, Alice in Wonderland Fantasy

For the second time in its history, Pirelli’s annual calendar will feature all black models and celebrities.

Lifestyle – Esquire

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Deveaux Men’s Spring 2018

“Nothingness is just as important as things that are there,” Andrea Tsao, one-third of Deveaux’s design team, posited ahead of the brand’s fourth outing. That philosophical outlook was taken from Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s design M.O. — whose use of muted palettes, clean lines and leanings toward raw materials parallel design elements in the Deveaux world.
The tether to Ando was light, bearing conceptual details that made minimal silhouettes feel special. An “architect” car coat that opened the show, for example, played with the idea of spacing and exposure, featuring pockets that wove in and out. “What you see and what you can’t see is a large part of his architecture,” Tsao continued. Other details like pockets-within-pockets and belts weaving through cutouts teetered on modern and luxurious design.
The overall tone was more relaxed than previous efforts, featuring an experimentation with oversize fits and vintage sensibilities. Roomy, A-line coats in black washed nylon and glen plaid erred on the side of sophistication, while color-blocked knitwear, khaki-and-white top combos, and chunky sneakers were retro and retail-friendly propositions.
The team also showed a few women’s looks, which showcased architectural references with more freedom. Standouts included a sharp tailored blazer and offbeat olive cotton shirt. It

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Landlord Men’s Spring 2018

Ryohei Kawanishi is drawn to cultural melting pots.
Before the Japanese designer moved to Harlem, he spent seven years living in Dalston, a neighborhood in East London that was known for its Caribbean community. Kawanishi said the main premise for Landlord is to take what he sees on the streets and translate it into fashion. This is a strategy practiced by many, if not most, designers, but there’s something different about his interpretations, which err on the side of homage rather than appropriation.
Reggae formed the foundation for his spring collection, and sometimes the references were quite literal but still clever. One sweater read “Bob” — as in Bob Marley — and other oversize knits were covered with “Jerk Chicken” and marijuana leaves. Then there was the Rastafarian-influenced color palette of red, green and yellow, which looked particularly fresh on color-blocked pants and jackets made from nylon.
Kawanishi said visual references from street markets also crept into the collection. This was evident with the camo prints placed to obscure a faux Burberry plaid along with the leather sneakers and sandals worn without socks. Other highlights included a satin parka, a matte leather jacket and the cuffed, baggy denim.
Kawanishi, who is now on his

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2018

Willy Chavarria used The Eagle, New York’s iconic leather bar, as a setting for his spring collection. But he juxtaposed the gritty gay subculture scene by filling the bar with fragrant flowers and parking two pristine Lowrider cars outside the venue.
“I wanted to show two cultures that don’t co-exist,” Chavarria said.
The oversize leather outerwear pieces, baggy pants and caps had a clear Robert Mapplethorpe influence, while striped polos and slouchy cropped khakis had a strong Chollo vibe.
Plays on renowned American logos such as Coors and Marlboro were reinvented as graphic adornments on sweatshirts, shorts and pants. The show pieces were hand-painted by Chavarria’s friend and collaborator, Brian Calvin. The one-of-a-kind-pieces will be sold at galleries as artwork and turned into prints for the commercial collection.
Other graphic slogans included “Silence Still Equals Death,” a play on the AIDS-related mantra from the Eighties. “That now applies to all things in these highly political times,” he said.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety

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Thorsun Men’s Spring 2018

George Sotelo’s spring collection for Thorsun reflected a recent trip he took to Bali, mashed together with his Mexican heritage, which served as his primary inspiration over the past three seasons.
On 100 percent recycled French polyester for his men’s offering and Italian polyester for the women’s, he splashed playful Indonesian-inspired graphics including a toucan print and tropical florals.
He also revisited more familiar territory — geometric fish prints and abstract paisley.
The brand’s women’s range has been expanded this season, spanning bikinis and one-pieces to long-sleeve rash guards.
Sotelo revealed that while he’s already begun designing some T-shirts to complement his men’s swimwear, “I’m going full-on ready-to-wear for next season.” He said the line will start out as men’s only and will be centered around tops that work well with the bathing suits, such as sport shirts, sweaters and a larger assortment of T-shirts.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety of nautical references in the line.
Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by the

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What the 2018 Pirelli Calendar Says About Race

The Italian company’s latest offering is a reimagining of “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” with an all-black cast.
NYT > Fashion & Style

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Dim Mak Men’s Spring 2018

Steve Aoki opted to show his men’s wear line, Dim Mak, a few days after the official New York Fashion Week: Men’s schedule, which was probably a smart idea given his elaborate vision.
Last season, Aoki installed a skate park inside Skylight Clarkson Sq and Mangchi, a self-described “hammer” band, performed a spirited set as actual skaters, who wore the collection, dropped in and out of two half pipes.
This season Aoki, a DJ who also owns Dim Mak Records, held a presentation before shutting down a New York block to hold a runway show and concert that was produced and presented by the Build Series. The show, which featured performances from Ayo & Teo, Bok Nero, Ma$ e and Sonny Digital, also commemorated the release of his new album, Kolony, which is out on July 21.
“I like to combine both worlds,” said Aoki, who started his Dim Mak record label in 1996. “People know me as a DJ first so it just made sense to do this type of event.”
Aoki’s collection was titled Paradise Found, which according to Aoki is indicative of the current climate. “People are looking for paradise amid chaos,” he said. He imbued this idea throughout the assortment, which consisted of military staples — bomber and

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Rachel Zoe Sets ‘Pop-In Shop’ in East Hampton, Spring 2018 Fashion Show in L.A.

Next month, Rachel Zoe will dip her toes into the warming waters of the seasonal East Coast retail scene with her first-ever East Hampton “pop-in shop” at What Goes Around Comes Around. The shop will feature a selection of Rachel Zoe Collection’s pre-fall and fall pieces styled with her picks from WGACA’s vintage selection.
Zoe will launch the shop — open from August 5 to 13 — with a VIP shopping night on August 4. “I wasn’t ready to open up my own pop-up shop for the whole summer, but I have known the guys at What Goes Around Comes Around for 20 years, so we thought, ‘Why not do a pop-in shop for part of the season?’ It’s a great way to have a presence in a place that’s like my second home. In August you’re still wearing sundresses but you’re also in a fall state of mind, so why not mix in some chunky knits, statement outerwear and boots? I love mixing my own new pieces with vintage, and my customer dresses that way too,” she said.
The pop-in will showcase light, airy silhouettes and statement staples such as printed silk tops, dresses, faux furs and jumpsuits that can work from the

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Ovadia & Sons Men’s Spring 2018

Continuing the “narrative of last season,” Ovadia & Sons once again fueled a sporty lifestyle in its spring collection.
The trend-conscious lineup showcased an array of silk souvenir jackets, retro Fifties rayon shirts and geeky-cool pastel-colored suits.
“All the cool kids in school wore baseball jackets, but we couldn’t afford one,” said Shimon Ovadia, who designs the line with his brother Ariel. “So we’re doing them now.”
The less-predictable print that appeared on a coach’s jacket, a pop-over and a track pant was the first peek at a capsule with Interesni Kazki artists from the Ukraine that the twins discovered in their travels.
Their affinity for animal prints worked hand-in-hand with the tribal references they used to update their signature tracksuits.
The jewel tones employed in key pieces such as car coats and track pants added a sense of sophistication to the casual lineup. And the use of cross-body bags and bucket hats served as a reminder that the Ovadia brothers have once again embraced the trends of the season and brought their own twist to it.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection

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Escada Spring 2018

Escada kept the same inspirations the design team chose for resort for its spring collection: Isabella Rossellini for the main line and Sofia Coppola for Escada Sport.
References to either muse were difficult to spot in the actual clothes, which took on extremely bold color and color-blocking in the mainline and generic denim and sporty parka/windbreakers in the sport line.
The main collection’s attempt to modernize with a focus on classic separates silhouettes was compromised by some unwieldy color combinations, for example, a magenta blazer over a cobalt blue top and white pants, all with a satiny sheen. There was an orange story, followed by a mint-green-dominated delivery. The best things were the simplest: a white shirtdress with tiny jeweled embroidery and a striped shirtdress with nice movement.
See More Fashion Reviews From WWD:
C2H4 Los Angeles Men’s Spring 2018: Chen wanted to design laboratory workwear for the year 2082.
Theory Men’s Spring 2018: The collection marked the debut of new designer Martin Andersson.
General Idea Men’s Spring 2018: The designer offered a modern interpretation of hippie culture.
Raun Larose Men’s Spring 2018: Eighties tech start-ups provided inspiration for the line.  

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Porn ID checks set to start in April 2018

The government sets a nine-month countdown to porn ID checks, but is told this seems “unrealistic”.
BBC News – Technology

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Martin Grant Resort 2018

Martin Grant has come up with a solution for keeping armpits dry during a heat wave: air-conditioned sleeves.
Puff sleeves, leg-of-mutton arms and dropped armholes were just some of the hot-weather hacks the designer deployed in his resort collection, which featured breezy drawstring-collared blouses and cool djellaba styles that worked equally well for the beach and the city.
“I like the fact of mixing these ethnic influences with something that’s very clean and structured,” he said.
Grant worked with patterns including irregular stripes, dots and a coral-inspired print, the latter appearing on a belted black-and-white tunic dress. French workwear fabrics inspired a selection of outfits in light blue cotton poplin, including a wide-leg jumpsuit and a peasant blouse with puffed-up sleeves.
Eveningwear skewed toward Eighties styles, with items like cocktail dresses in mismatched polka dot patterns with major sleeve action. Grant also worked that voluminous shoulder into an emerald-green silk top that delivered climate control with a theatrical flourish.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety of

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Lanvin Resort 2018

In her final collection for Lanvin before her departure after just 16 months at the house, Bouchra Jarrar stuck to a mostly monochrome palette for outfits that alternated between trapeze dresses and her signature masculine-inspired suits.
Decorative touches included floral fabrics, lace trims and ruffled necklines. Jarrar added touches of color including the label’s signature blue, which was used on a powdery blouse with frills at the neck and wrists, unexpectedly paired with high-waisted pleated pants in a similar shade.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety of nautical references in the line.
Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by the ocean and Atlantis.
Descendant of Thieves Men’s Spring 2018: The designer toyed with the aesthetic of deviant Mods of the Sixties, balancing an energetic collection of colorful prints with relaxed silhouettes.

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Palmiers du Mal Men’s Spring 2018

“The young pope goes on safari” read the show notes from Wednesday night’s presentation for Palmiers du Mal’s spring collection.
Designer Shane Fonner has quite the love for luxe loungewear and, in what seems a progression from last season, there were numerous new shapes in the lineup such as high-waisted sweatpants, zebra-printed caftans and even a dalmatian-print robe with a hint of floral for contrast.
“I like to think of this collection as gender-agnostic,” said Fonner backstage, pointing to  many of the styles that were a bit decadent with a hint of a rock star vibe.
Despite showing the collection at the Rose Bar at the Gramercy Park Hotel — a space adorned with images of photographer David Lachapelle on its walls — the chic location was better suited for a party than a fashion presentation as seeing the clothes up close proved quite challenging.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety of nautical references in the line.
Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by the ocean

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Bode Men’s Spring 2018

As a child, Emily Bode spent her summers at her uncle’s house in the south of France. She slept in his grenier, which means attic in French, where she was surrounded by bedsheets, bath towels and antique linens.
“This collection is about my uncle’s generational relationship with the attic and what the attic means to me as a space,” Bode said. “It’s a place to take in memories of yesteryear and reflect on one’s mortality.”
Bode, who graduated from Parsons before launching her men’s wear line in 2016, re-created that sentimental space for her presentation. Models lounged around wood-frame beds while the scent of lavender lingered throughout the room.
Quilting was the focus of her previous collection, but this season she concentrated on florals and stripes. Models wore floral printed raincoats, terrycloth jackets and striped sleep pants. Shirts were made from cotton Quaker lace and French linens. Other highlights included the floral tapestry jackets — specifically the mustard style decorated with a double row of buttons.
The overall effect was inviting. Bode has a clear talent for mixing textures, colors and textiles in an intriguing way. She’s also adept at rendering fabrics typically associated with the word “antique” to appear modern and strong. We

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Luar Men’s Spring 2018

Young American designers have strong opinions about what corporate America stands for, and designer Raul Lopez is among them.
“I was inspired by everything going on in the world right now,” he said, pointing to “financiers, entrepreneurs and moguls” as his starting point.
Turning dress codes on their heads was the main message here as a traditional bankers’ pinstripe suit was deconstructed, stripped of its sleeves and the fabric converted into an oversize zip-up leg warmer.
Other “convertible” pieces included cropped T-shirts with round cutouts, and ties sewn together to make a layered skirt.
His affinity for deconstruction came as a result of growing up with an architect father, he said.
This gender-fluid offering also included an array of long, medium and short skirts, together with a summery white dress with his brand’s Holy Trinity logo as the main graphic embellishment.
While there’s no realistic retail offering, Lopez at least gets marks for pushing the boundaries of men’s wear.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety of

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Represent Men’s Spring 2018

Siblings George and Mike Heaton continued in the vein of their debut fall collection, highlighting the most energetic aspects of British punk subculture with a streetwear bent. They titled their spring collection “Wide Awake,” which took its name from a propaganda poster by Winston Churchill during World War II, and splashed the slogan across sporty sweaters.
The siblings have tended to use British victories in their prints and embroideries, proclaiming the brand’s “Made in Britain” stamp along with prints of the Union Jack. Streetwear obviously isn’t a new concept, but a British undertone in the category is something novel that has attracted American consumers.
Key this season were lightweight parkas, velour tracksuits, floral printed silk shirts and a general sense of youthful subversion. There was also an athletic thread in matching pinstripe mesh sets, sweatshirt fabrics and joggers paired with loose tops. If these first two collections are any indication of the brand’s trajectory, expect high-energy, unapologetically boastful British fashion for the seasons ahead.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring

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Raun Larose Men’s Spring 2018

Raun Larose mined Eighties tech start-ups for his spring collection, which he titled “System Down.” He worked with Jose Cunha, a Portuguese artist, on the graphics, which he said were modeled after old error messages on IBM computers, and reworked a few silhouettes from the opulent decade.
Models wore wide-leg, pleated pants and high-waisted shorts. Larose implemented shine into the collection with a PVC jacket and a parka made from a tech fabric. The designer also deconstructed the suit by adding volume to the trousers and replacing a button closure with a tie waist. New to the lineup were prints, which Larose said were influenced by the Olympics. Off-the-shoulder knits lent and unconventional feel to classic shirt collars.
Larose gets credit for pushing forward an avant-garde message and conjuring up new silhouettes.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety of nautical references in the line.
Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by the ocean and Atlantis.
Descendant of Thieves Men’s Spring 2018: The designer

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General Idea Men’s Spring 2018

As in seasons past, designer Bumsuk Choi steered clear of being a trend-driven brand, instead steering General Idea to create its own path. And Thursday’s spring show was no different.
Based on the notions of the hippie culture from the Sixties and Seventies, the lineup consisted of silky shirts with bandana prints, ethnic embroideries on the cuffs of shirts and denim, and racing stripes on the sides of trousers.
“As a society we have been accustomed to not be able to live without our phones,” said Choi backstage, shortly after sending out oversize logos shouting “No post” on the backs and front of shirts.
A nice surprise, color was a huge message this season, with General Idea offering up bright reds, yellows and blues in a variety of looks, while staying away from white and black that has become predictable.
With this solid effort, Choi gets credit for making us put down our phones and transporting us to his modern hippie universe.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts

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Theory Men’s Spring 2018

Like many transplanted Europeans, new Theory designer Martin Andersson, previously of Cos, couldn’t resist the allure of Americana.
“I concentrated on the great American classics rooted in uniforms, sports and workwear,” Andersson said at the brand’s rooftop presentation, with Manhattan’s skyline as a backdrop.
The sporty pieces included sweatpants, hoodies and bombers in cotton, technical nylon and paper-thin leather. The workwear influences were clear on updated Dickies-inspired pants with a single pleat, as well as a “geeky” take on a railroad-stripe suit.
Punches of yellow and orange gave the mostly neutral lineup jolts of energy.
The tailored clothing offering had a subtle Fifties feel with the addition of the Gansevoort silhouette, a softly constructed suit with a natural shoulder and narrow pants. The new style came in a travel jersey and a technical nylon and polyester seersucker. Ultrathin anoraks worn under blazers enhanced the technical yet modern urban feel.
The lineup might come across as unexciting at first, but after a closer look, the minimalist approach felt like a perfect palate-cleanser.

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Sanchez-Kane Men’s Spring 2018

On the “about” section of her web site, Barbara Sanchez-Kane defines her label as a “Mexican clothing brand curated by emotional chaos.”
What that means is that instead of sourcing ideas from an artist, location or concept, she lets her feelings lead the way.
This season Sanchez-Kane, who launched her brand in 2015 after working for Bernhard Willhelm, parsed the sensations that come along with stereotypes and societal standards, which she mainly portrayed through constrictive design details.

Sanchez-Kane, who is known for her tailored pieces, used the curls in a pinwheel, her favorite toy as a child, as appendages on blazers, denim jackets and pants. These curls, which were buttoned to garments, sometimes connected pieces of a suit or wrapped around the looks to relay the idea of restriction. Sanchez-Kane also utilized ties, straps and metal wire — one piece sat stiffly on a model like a T-shirt — to underscore this message.

According to Sanchez-Kane, the restrictions created by social norms lead to hiding one’s feelings and this translated to pieces that were stuffed with fabric or pants that were dotted with three-dimensional boxes. She incorporated messages from her journal entries onto pieces — one T-shirt read “Freelance Lover” — along with Mexican

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Watch the Boss Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear Show Live

Right this way.

Style – Esquire

SHOPPING DEALS UPDATE:


Raf Simons Men’s Spring 2018

Blade Runner came to life under the Manhattan Bridge Tuesday night courtesy of Raf Simons.
The designer created his own version of the iconic film by taking over an alley in Chinatown, complete with the overwhelming smell of fish wafting through the air and the ear-numbing rumble of subways overhead.
Simons continued his long-standing collaboration with British graphic artist Peter Saville who said the designer had requested access to his archives while preparing for the show. Simons utilized vintage Joy Division and New Order album covers as graphic details on both the set and on several of the garments including sliced-open sweatshirts and graphic Ts.
The opening look – a slouchy black rubber trenchcoat paired with matching rain boots, gardening hat and see-through umbrella with glow-in-the-dark shaft – set the tone for the cinematic collection.
“There were a lot of things that go back to my early days – why we started doing the things we did,” Simons said. “There were strong music references from the past juxtapositioned and taken out of context. It was about movies, “Blade Runner,” it’s about cultures sliding together, Asian culture, cultures of the West. There was more of a new wave punk attitude.”
Long raincoats in a variety of

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Private Policy Men’s Spring 2018

Private Policy turned west for its spring lineup.
“The idea behind the collection is a view of America through foreigners’ eye, together with what the real America is,” said Haoran Li, who designs the collection with Siying Qu.
These two ideas translated into a playful collection full of Western references including Navajo prints in boxy jackets, matching shorts and retro Fifties shirts. Bolo ties and cowboy boots added yet another heritage touch. The phrase “Thank You,” that appears on plastic deli bags around the country, was transformed into an oversize top coat, a nod to the designers’ “real America.”
Private Policy’s proclivity to add a playful sexual element was apparent in the use of harness details in fitted pants, silver rings in the back of jackets and belts with garter straps.
Although Western references are not new in men’s wear, Private Policy’s adventurous version offered a unique and fresh perspective.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Head of State Men’s Spring 2018: Taofeek Abijako, who just turned 19, looked to West African artists for his collection. 
Krammer & Stoudt Men’s Spring 2018: The collection had a casual Baja feel but also included a tuxedo for the first time. 
Bristol Los Angeles Men’s Spring 2018: The collection offered a unique take

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2018

Todd Snyder offered a “melting pot of fashion” in his spring collection, drawing references from around the world — Morocco, France and his own Iowa backyard.
“It’s a mish-mash of different looks,” he said backstage before his show for New York Fashion Week: Men’s on Monday night. “Active, military, sartorial.” Even his father’s propensity to wear black socks with shorts — “which always annoyed me, but now I’m doing it, too” — made an appearance.
In a show that featured a musical performance from Lewis Del Mar, those eclectic references were visible in a suit fashioned after an old French burlap coffee-bean bag, Marrakech-inspired multistripes in linen bomber jackets and a Mexican Baja white and olive hoodie.
But the big news came from a radical change in the silhouette. From oversize pleated pants, shorts and Japanese selvage jeans to softly constructed boxy-cut double-breasted suits, “the pants are much baggier,” he said. “And there are pleats everywhere. The proportion has changed a lot.”
The designer also showcased his long-standing collaboration with Champion by “resurrecting a few classics,” such as a sweater with a diagonal color-blocked design and logo T-shirts worn under blazers and top coats.
In past seasons, Snyder has been playing it safe, but with

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Balmain Resort 2018

Olivier Rousteing is having a “Vive la France” moment, evidenced in his resort collection and recent men’s wear show. Blame it on his collaboration with the Paris Opera, or soon-to-be-launched line of lipsticks with L’Oréal Paris. Or the fact that “politically,” with President Macron in the driving seat, he’s “more proud than ever about the choices that France is making.”
The designer fed an array of French symbols — think tweed and Breton stripes “like you’d find on a Serge Gainsbourg T-shirt” — through the Balmain filter. “This to me is Balmain: It’s fierce, it’s tough, but at the same time there’s a softness and fragility that I’m working on now,” said the designer of a white and pastel body-con macramé dress with black patent leather accents. It was inspired by French tapestries. A range of body-con-meets-ballet numbers ending in tutus were among variations on the theme, paired with gold-buttoned tweed jackets trailing with fringed silk. “They’re my Balmain ballerinas,” Rousteing said.
With an L.A. store due to open on July 20, the designer also folded in nods to his second home, the U.S., with Western references sprinkled across the collection, from fringed jackets to horse prints. From ballet to Beverly Hills, the

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John Galliano Resort 2018

“I think leopard print can go quite bourgeois or rock ‘n’ roll, and I definitely pushed for the latter direction,” said Bill Gaytten of the John Galliano collection’s signature print, based on a hybrid beast that was part leopard, part tiger. It added a wild note to asymmetric cocktail dresses. More unexpected spins included a fierce embroidered cat adorning an innocent-looking lemon silk pleated dress with a signature draped bow detail at the waist.
Other elements included denim embroidered with lotus flowers, studded dresses, an animal print trench, and a great checked jacket cut on the Galliano bias with a contrast animal print collar.
The designer also sprinkled in a range of signature pretty options, including Galliano dancing dresses with tulle overlays and vintage-looking embroidered slips.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: As the house of Dior turns 70, Maria Grazia Chiuri designed her fall couture collection an homage to the house founder.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.
Iris Van Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a performance by underwater group Between Music.
Paris to Honor Karl

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Maticevski Resort 2018

For his debut Paris presentation, rising Australian designer Toni Maticevski stuck to his signature sculptural silhouettes, mashing contrasting textures like sports mesh, tailoring and ornate brocades.
The moods meandered, too, from dark sexy creations showing a bit of skin to long double-breasted jackets in rose brocade and souffle tulle gowns, albeit with abstract constructions that tempered the princess tone.
Slogans nodded to titles of previous collections, like The Elegant Rebel or Tomboy Heiress, with the designer also incorporating a print inspired by old movie titles from the Thirties and Forties that lent a shadowy, melancholic note.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: As the house of Dior turns 70, Maria Grazia Chiuri designed her fall couture collection an homage to the house founder.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.
Iris Van Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a performance by underwater group Between Music.
Paris to Honor Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel Couture Show: Mayor Anne Hidalgo is to decorate the couturier with a Grand Vermeil medal, the city’s highest distinction.

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Y’s Resort 2018

Highlights from the Pink label included bikers and reversible bombers lined with a splashy reinterpretation of a print from Japan’s Taishō Democracy period in the Twenties, which also played out on floaty dresses.
Among additions to the showroom was a full women’s capsule from the Exclusive line, part of the brand’s Black sub-line, focused on signature, mannish, plain suiting options with twists like dusty check prints and oversize spins on the shirtdress with bow ties.
Adding a dose of color was the scrunchy tie-and-dye stains splashed on T-shirts, shirts and Bermudas in polyester and crepe de chine. Summery options included twisted tanks and a white linen jacket with pleats at the back, while the brand’s Rismat casual subline also continues to gather momentum. Hits there included the super-relaxed, ample, hybrid cardigans and sweaters with tonal shirting sections in a range of lovely shades going from electric blue to dusty yellow.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: As the house of Dior turns 70, Maria Grazia Chiuri designed her fall couture collection an homage to the house founder.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.
Iris Van Herpen

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Ingie Paris Resort 2018

Ingie Chalhoub took resort quite literally, offering up a languid collection inspired by the California lifestyle of the Seventies. Palazzo pants, jumpsuits and flowing dresses featured paisley or swirling vintage-style prints in a variety of pastel hues on white backgrounds, with floral adornments and hand-sewn braided details to knock home the hippie-chic message. Others were worked in plain candy-colored silk that flowed on the body, or in more structured jersey with a Neoprene texture.
These were contrasted with glittering fabrics that glammed things up. A graphic sequined guipure worked well on a long maxiskirt in off-white or a black shirt with translucent organza sleeves, while an ivory boyfriend blazer with sequin details had a relaxed charm. On a striped rough-hewn fabric, meanwhile, the contrast of metallic threads and pastels made for a refreshing look.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: As the house of Dior turns 70, Maria Grazia Chiuri designed her fall couture collection an homage to the house founder.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.
Iris Van Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a

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Resort 2018 Trend: Nautical

The sea unleashed inspiration for designers who got creative for summer jaunts.
 
 

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Drome Resort 2018

“Resort and pre-fall are strong selling seasons for Drome, so I always try to focus on seasonless pieces,” said creative director Marianna Rosati. “Since these seasons deliver to stores so early, I want the customer to be able to buy something and potentially wear it right away.” Let’s not forget Drome is a leather-based brand, making the goal of producing seasonless clothing all the more challenging.
Rosati approached warm weather by airing out leathers with perforations, punctuating loose silhouettes and dresses and, at times, weaving leather strips to create breathable little tops. She treats leather like any other malleable fabric, using lightweight and paper thin skins to create dresses with bunched sleeves and twisted knots, culottes, shirting and pants with the appearance of acid wash denim. It’s easy to overlook how difficult translating leather into an approachable, everyday fabric can be given how well she does it.
The designer continued the vein of her fall collection, expanding her textile library to include silks, viscose and knits — oftentimes breaking up leathers with lighter-weight fabrics for a sense of motion. “I push myself to work with the material in new, innovative ways that are interesting yet still wearable. This season, I wanted to

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Max Mara Resort 2018

As traditional resort inspirations go, it doesn’t get much more quintessential than the Cote d’Azur — a classic, upscale vacation mood befitting a classic, upscale brand such as Max Mara. The design team was wise to stay within the framework of luxurious classics for which the house is known, channeling casual but elegant Riviera chic with a modern touch into a practical wardrobe. Eileen Gray’s famous E-1027 villa in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin was a key reference.
Done mostly in navy, white and camel, easy tailored looks were laced with subtle nautical details — for example, a crisp denim button-down shirt and pencil skirt with a rope belt; a mannish white trench with sailor buttons down the side over wide-leg white pants, and of course the house’s signature camel coats, here cut into loose, lightweight robes. There was a languid masculinity to many of the separates, countered by the sporty, minimalist femininity of a navy slipdress with nautical criss-cross spaghetti straps, a sailor-inspired white shirtdress with black tipping and a few touches of pale pink in a sweater and robe coat.
Osman Resort 2018: Yousefzada’s cosmic collection offered a constellation of feminine and architectural shapes.
Blumarine Resort 2018: Rebecca Louise Law’s floral installation inspired the delicate beauty which

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Zuhair Murad Resort 2018

The collection had a stronger daywear bent without losing any of the poetry and femininity, with Zuhair Murad carefully dosing his fairytale theme. He expressed a sweet side and a dark side, ranging from a powder blue princess gown in embroidery depicting a castle in the clouds to a draped black printed dress and a black suit with a peplum jacket dusted with stars that had a Forties Surrealism flavor.
Standouts included a mannish suit with stitched lines evoking pinstripes that were then dotted with studs, and the white lace and ruffled looks with a dreamy David Hamilton vibe. Not forgetting the more romantic dresses embroidered with pretty prints mixing birds of paradise, blooms, nymphs and unicorns that allowed for a bit of escapism.
Osman Resort 2018: Yousefzada’s cosmic collection offered a constellation of feminine and architectural shapes.
Blumarine Resort 2018: Rebecca Louise Law’s floral installation inspired the delicate beauty which Anna Molinari injected in her feminine collection. 
Fleur du Mal Resort 2018: Jennifer Zuccarini presented a quintessential resort collection with a lingerie twist.
Maison Michel Resort 2018: Priscilla Royer had in mind the movie “Legally Blonde” in conceiving this collection.
Maggie Marilyn Resort 2018: Designer Maggie Marilyn Hewitt’s sun-kissed collection was based around the feeling of the last few days of

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Resort 2018 Trend: Tiers and Frills

A romantic flair breezed through the resort collections via lightly ruffled and frilled dresses.

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13 Bonaparte Men’s Spring 2018

David Sarfati keeps growing his workwear-tinged male wardrobe in an organic fashion. For this, 13 Bonaparte’s 11th season, the designer injected novelty in numerous ways while keeping true to his philosophy that all of his label’s pieces can be mixed and matched, and remain anchored to a permanent, seasonless catalogue that is available year-round.
For this versatile collection, Sarfati created trousers with big pleats in poplin; introduced stripes in wafer-thin linen fabric and a grenadine hue, and fashioned wider, longer shorts.
In tandem with the opening of 13 Bonaparte’s Los Angeles boutique in August, the brand will launch a dedicated site for e-commerce in the U.S. Category-wise, after branching out in denim and women’s wear, kids’ clothes are on the horizon, even as early as next year, Sarfati revealed.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Valentino Men’s Spring 2018: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s casual lineup was all about self-expression.
Y/Project Men’s Spring 2018: The collection was more merch-friendly without losing any of the edge.
Cédric Charlier Men’s Spring 2018: Called “Playtime,” the starting point for the coed collection was a sculpture by Todd Knopke.
Balenciaga Men’s Spring 2018: Demna Gvasalia’s collection was an ode to Sunday in the park with Dad
Jil Sander Men’s Spring and Resort 2018: Lucie and Luke Meier debuted at Jil

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Undercover Men’s Spring 2018

Music influences are a given in Undercover’s collections and this season, for his collection titled “Spiritual Noise,” Jun Takahashi went all out, inventing his Undercover Records label with a portfolio of fictitious bands (think Brain Castle and their album “Not Waving,” and The Wet Dreams).
And there was the merch to match. Nodding to subculture musical genres including rockabilly and the New Romantics, as well as the railway outfits popular with rebel youth in Eighties Japan, the designer put his design stamp and twists on checked shirts, technical anoraks, band T-shirts, scarves with patches and giant colored nylon trenches that had rainy Glastonbury written all over them.
The designer also presented a hook-up with iconic Japanese brand Cream Soda, founded in the late Sixties by the late Masayuki Yamazaki, a pioneer of rockabilly, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. The collaboration is based around a stylized animal print that played out on shirts and footwear.
The collection’s accessories were equally fun, offering colored headbands, logo slides by Hayn, train driver hats by Kijima Takayuki, and necklaces with functioning itsy-bitsy penknives.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Valentino Men’s Spring 2018: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s casual lineup was all about self-expression.
Y/Project Men’s Spring 2018: The collection was

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Fleur du Mal Resort 2018

Jennifer Zuccarini presented a quintessential resort collection with a lingerie twist. For her newest offering, Zuccarini presented both Fleur du Mal’s holiday and resort collections. For holiday, inspiration stemmed from Japanese photographer and artist Nobuyoshi Araki, whose work includes a mix of sensual florals with bondage. This provocative feel could be seen throughout the holiday collection — a great red, floral button-up paired with a tougher, patent leather skirt — and translated into holiday — a chic white corseted set of shorts and matching strapless top.
While resort included lingerie details, the selection was much brighter and channeled resort to a T through both ready-to-wear separates and great swim offerings. There were great highlighter colors that were balanced out with indigos and navies as well as a pretty palm print, as per a one-shoulder dress with U-shaped high leg slit. Highlights in swim included new high leg, high-waist brightly colored bikinis as well as velvet swimwear. In ready-to-wear, the strongest pieces included “matchy-matchy” sets — like a pink silk twill “denim” pant and tank as well as a black burnout silk bustier tank-and-pant set. The collection was sexy but cool, and perfect to wear from the beach to a party.
Cynthia Rowley Resort 2018: Cynthia Rowley’s

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Men’s Spring 2018: The Paris Medals Race

Paris spent the weekend in dual celebrations. On Saturday the city’s streets were filled with floats and joyous crowds for the Gay Pride March, while that day and Friday saw events all over town to promote the City of Light’s bid for the 2024 Olympics (although snarling traffic to do so perhaps wasn’t the best way to win over the International Olympic Committee).
Here WWD ranks the men’s shows based on how they fared in their Olympian goal: To win a medal. But, designers please remember Baron de Coubertin’s creed: “The most important thing…is not to win, but to take part….The essential thing is not to have conquered, but to have fought well.”
And while Olympians might have to wait four years for another shot at a medal, you — the lucky designers and fashion pack — only have six months until next men’s season. Let the games begin.
 
GOLD: The designer crossed the finish line a clear winner.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Berluti
Sacai
 
SILVER: Competitive, but just not good enough for gold.
Dior Homme
Paul Smith
Hermès
AMI Alexandre Mattiussi
Balenciaga
Valentino
Rick Owens
Louis Vuitton
Alexander McQueen
BRONZE: They out-showed the pack to at least make the medals podium.
Lemaire
Thom Browne
Haider Ackermann
Dries Van Noten
Junya Watanabe Man
Cerruti
Lanvin
Balmain
Officine Générale

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Yang Li Men’s Spring 2018

Villains have the best taste in clothes. “Their taste level is perversely good,” Yang Li said.
While the good guys are busy saving the innocent, Travis, Li’s corrupt cop and muse of the season, spends his bribe money on fine Italian wools.
While there were no specific film references in the collection, there were strains of Harvey Keitel’s Bad Lieutenant, Gary Oldman in “Leon the Professional,” Javier Bardem’s agent-turned-villain in “Skyfall” and even Brad Pitt’s character in the 1995 film “Seven.”
Li puts equal care in finishing and unfinishing his garments. His rough hems could be found around the edges of knife slashes on a blazer. “Communicating attitude through cut or form is something I like to work with, rather than three sleeves or a new kind of pocket,” he explained pointing out a classic double face on a tuxedo, cut to make it look like a holster; crisp, meticulously pressed cottons, stitched to permanently hold the crease on a police shirt; a formal shirt with ladder stitching, almost a jour de Venise perforation, mimicking the uniform braids. KTC, the performance apparel manufacturer, spliced the same perforation into bomber jackets.
And if Travis had a female colleague just as bad as him, a tight

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UK’s first heart pump targets 2018 clinical trial

Clinical trials are due to begin in late 2018 with the aim of a full rollout two years later.
BBC News – Health
HEALTH & WELLNESS UPDATE:

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Front Row at Berluti Men’s Spring 2018

INNER CIRCLE: Heading the Haider Ackermann fan club at the Berluti show on Friday, held in the courtyard of the Monnaie de Paris, was Olga Berluti. Mingling with guests before the show, Berluti said she was very touched by the changes afoot in the brand she helmed for decades.
“Haider is a true artist in my opinion, and he understands the spirituality of Berluti, the soul of our clientele,” she said. “In my mind, the emotion is linked to so much youth at Berluti, to knowing that it has, without changing soul, without changing spirit, federated a youth that didn’t exist previously.”
French actor and director Jalil Lespert was enjoying the fresh air, both in terms of the courtyard and Ackermann’s arrival at the luxury house. “Being outside is great, and I loved Haider’s first Berluti collection. I really like the brand, many of my friends wear their shoes and it can quickly give that ‘Enarque’ look,” he said referring to the National School of Administration, or ENA, a French “grande école” created in the Forties to democratize access to the senior civil service. “But with this wind of renewal sweeping through, I am really curious to see it develop.”
“I’d love to

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G-Star Raw Research III Men’s Spring 2018

Aitor Throup and his team deconstructed denim to explore its possibilities for the third experimental G-Star Raw Research collection, which offered designs for men and, for the first time, women as well.
Three distinct sections — raw ecru denim, indigo and brightly dyed fabrics — explored new ways of looking at and rebuilding the casual staple, integrating utilitarian and military influences.
A new jeans style, the Spiraq, was built from a single piece of denim wrapped around the leg, giving an ergonomic shape, and was particularly appealing in a wide-leg, cropped style for women. Jackets and coats featured multiple outsize pockets held on with Velcro, and pants and a skirt built parachute details into their structure.
Throup said he had wanted to look at denim in a new way by pulling the production process apart and avoiding mental shortcuts. “Industrialization leads to standardization,” he said. “By deconstructing it you learn to isolate those elements and bring our new possibilities for denim.”
Each piece in the collection is available in 15 bright colors as well as ecru and indigo, and the plan is for different retailers (the Raw Research collection is sold in select multibrand stores) to stock both basic shades and a selection of

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Aquilano.Rimondi Resort 2018

Graphic and bold was the mood that Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi wanted to infuse in their resort collection.
The paintings of Joan Mirò served as inspiration for the geometric patterns and the bright colors of a range of skirts and shirtdresses, including a fluid silk style cinched at the waist with a coordinating belt. Sporty references emerged in sleek pants featuring printed multicolor bands running down the legs, while hyper-feminine skirts, paired with the brand’s signature white shirts, featured ultra-high waists and ruffled details.
Aquilano and Rimondi also injected a sleek sartorial appeal into the vests and blazers coming in both striped and checked motifs.

See More From the Resort 2018 Collections:

Cynthia Rowley Resort 2018: Cynthia Rowley’s latest lineup is all about mastering the art of the long weekend getaway.
Claudia Li Resort 2018: The collection drew from the designer’s own dreams and the surrealist work of Joe Webb and Salvador Dalí.
Stella Jean Resort 2018: Country and tropical motifs were incorporated in this collection, focused on very feminine silhouettes.
Vivetta Resort 2018: Vivetta Ponti introduced edgier, more mature silhouettes for resort.

Martha Medeiros Resort 2018: Martha Medeiro’s handmade Brazilian lace collection drew from the arid landscapes of the designer’s native region of Sertão.

Sass & Bide Resort 2018: Sophia Berman’s resort collection referenced Casa Batllo, a

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St. John Resort 2018

St. John is staying true to its knitwear heritage for resort, but as Greg Myler says, they’ve “taken the seriousness out.” Inspired by Cy Twombly’s 1986 work “Scent of Madness,” Myler’s collection incorporates a palette of blush, coral, hibiscus and raspberry tones punctuated by taupe and silver hues.
The brand is overall “less suit-y,” says Myler, who did include an update on the iconic jacket, which now comes in a featherweight fabric. There’s an intentional move to integrate cashmere more often, as well as tactile and luxury fabrics like velvet and shearling. A key piece for resort was a long, cashmere blanket coat which was paired with stretch suede leggings. Velvet appeared in the form of a floral jumpsuit, as well as gray velvet trousers, which were paired with a cashmere hoodie and a vest to emphasize the theme of comfort.
Evening offerings included tea dresses, a coral update on the high-low trend and a black, lingerie-inspired gown that comes with a cape for an added touch of drama. Swarovski crystals are incorporated throughout the collection. After all, the St. John customer “loves a little bit of sparkle.”
See More From the Resort 2018 Collections:
Martha Medeiros Resort 2018: Martha Medeiro’s handmade Brazilian lace

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Lucien Pellat-Finet Spring 2018

California in the Nineties — complete with a distinct acid trip — was the vibe for Lucien Pellat-Finet’s spring collection for men and women, titled “Happy Days.” Scantily clad models of both genders smooched down the runway in their slides and beachwear, clad in an array of Day-Glo layers.
Bright, skimpy swimwear, some in crushed velvet or a usurped leopard print, was paired with black-and-white elastic-waist sporty pants, shorts and skirts, their side stripes adorned with the label’s cannabis leaf motif, or with colorful printed ginghams for the girls.
A weed and lizard print on shirts added to the tropical feel, contrasting with varsity jackets and intarsia sweaters. White tiger-patterned jogging pants and a Brazilian flag wrap worn like a beach towel, meanwhile, were among the more original uses made of Pellat-Finet’s signature cashmere, which was juxtaposed with Japanese technical fabrics with a lighter, more sporty feel.
More From Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2018:
Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli Says Goodbye Suit, Hello VLTN: The designer is preparing to unveil a sportswear-driven collection with a new logo that plays on the brand’s classical font.
Pigalle Paris to Present First Full NikeLab Capsule: Creative director Stéphane Ashpool will present the collection at his show at Paris’ Modern Art Museum

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Badgley Mischka Resort 2018

Mark Badgley and James Mischka have had the pleasure of dressing Anjelica Huston many times. “She did our anniversary campaign a few years ago and we’re so inspired by her,” Badgley said. They based many of the resort gowns on Huston’s taste of a sleek column or sculptural silhouette with one great detail, which made for a lineup of striking dresses. A black “butter” crepe dress with a deep V and graphic belt was killer. Another gown had a gently fluted white skirt and beaded black top. There were a lot of black and white gowns as well as beaded cocktail minis and some chic separates, but they broke out the color — cobalt blue, magenta, a garden jacquard — on dresses with statement necklines, such as sculpted ruffles or strong portrait cuts. The collection made you want to dress up.
See More From the 2018 Resort Collections:
Marina Moscone Resort 2018: Marina Moscone’s resort was referenced by art while focusing on key pieces her woman will want in her wardrobe. 
Kate Spade New York Resort 2018: Deborah Lloyd balanced playful kitsch and pop femininity for her Kate Spade New York resort collection.
Rag & Bone Resort 2018: Resort was a smart progression in focusing on perfecting individual pieces for

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Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2018

There were no show notes, just one line projected onto the screen above the runway: Made in Armani.
The phrase captured the spirit of the collection, which was signature Giorgio, with a subdued color palette – 50 shades of light gray – and many of the designer’s greatest hits. Carrot trousers, curve-hugging tailored jackets, languid work wear styles, and Far Eastern-inspired silhouettes all took a turn on the runway.
GALLERY: Backstage at Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2018
In a season when some of Milan’s biggest names in men’s wear either didn’t take part to opt for co-ed shows in September, or lost their rhythm and wobbled, Armani stuck to what he knows best – and sent it down the runway over and over again. The show opened with a long and elegant feather light coat in watery gray, and ended with a chic lineup of all-white suits, some of them in seersucker, others with two buttons or three buttons, shawl collars or narrow peaked lapels.
In between there was much texture and surface interest – a crinkly coppery fabric for a bomber jacket; shiny gray-white tailored jackets with subtle plaid patterns; a loose jacket with patch pockets and tailored tracksuit bottoms (no sloppy street

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Cifonelli Men’s Spring 2018

John Vizzone said he wanted to infuse a relaxed vibe in his sartorial collection for the Cifonelli brand. He chose mainly textured fabrics with a rustic feel which were crafted in comfortable silhouettes of checked and Prince of Wales suits, as well as breezy shirt jackets with applied pockets. Everything was worn with tonal cotton shirts and ties, including the suede bombers and field jackets. The collection also included a capsule of evening suits made in the shimmering silk satin usually used for ties.
More From Milan Men’s Spring 2018 Collections:

Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2018: A summer on the Italian Riviera inspired Guillaume Meilland’s young and effortless chic collection.
Versace Men’s Spring 2018: It was vintage Versace through the Millennial lens, and those who are already fans won’t be let down. But there could have been so much more.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label Men’s Spring 2018: The collection centered on taking the best from the past and repackaging it for a new generation.
Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The laid-back ath-luxe mood was elevated by impressive material research.
Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2018: The Asian-inspired collection featured clever plays on layering.
Marni Men’s Spring 2018: Francesco Risso injected a childlike, free-spirited feel into this effortless cool collection.

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Tatras Men’s Spring 2018

Tatras took an imaginative trip  to the desert for summer.
The outerwear specialist developed a functional collection, including safari jackets and field styles with practical pockets crafted from luxurious fabrics, including Italian cotton and Japanese nylon.
The traditional camouflage motif was rendered both in a artsy version, as well as in a techno-jacquard giving a shimmering effect to a front pocket jacket.
For the second season, Tatras also teamed with Lucio Vanotti on a capsule collection. This included men’s and women’s nylon and cotton satin outerwear pieces, cut both in regular and oversized silhouettes, with colorful chevron graphics and zippers inspired by Seventies and Eighties tracksuits.
More From Milan Men’s Spring/Summer 2018 Collections:
Ones to Watch During Milan Men’s Fashion Week
The Boys of Milan
Milan Scene: Eat, Train, Shop Is the City’s Summer Mantra
Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring 2018: Designer Inspirations

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Victoria Victoria Beckham Resort 2018

Remember when Victoria Beckham launched Victoria Victoria Beckham — then known as Victoria by Victoria Beckham — as a light, flirty lineup of girly dresses to accompany her main line? That was a while ago — 2012 to be exact — and the collection has come a long way. There were a few dresses for resort, such as a gold-sequined T-shirt style and a mixed stripe knit tank, but otherwise, the dominant mood was cool separates worn a little loose and boyish, that reflect Beckham’s own evolution toward sophisticated modernist sportswear.
“When we merged VVB and Denim two years ago I was responding to a customer desire to develop the category beyond a dress offer,” Beckham said. “In the past two years, the collection has continued to expand into more lifestyle categories. And we’ve established pieces such as cotton shirting, outwear, knitwear, easy dress shapes, embroidered sweatshirts, all pieces that are now synonymous with VVB season on season.”
There was a mild Seventies vibe to disco sequins and graphic gold, orange and blue zig-zag stripes printed on a fluid oversized shirt worn with bold blue slouchy pants. “Thinking about the time at which this collection drops, which is just before Christmas, I was keen to

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J.W. Anderson Men’s Spring 2018

Is Jonathan Anderson gunning to become a household name? He’s got a collaboration with Uniqlo this fall, and he dedicated his coveted guest slot at Pitti Uomo to a collection hinged on his simple, personal style — along with the right doses of whimsy and quirk that his brand represents.
Given the show’s romantic setting, in the gardens of the La Pietra villa in the hilltops of Florence — scented with lemon trees, and accompanied by a soundtrack of chirping cicadas — the fantasy-prone designer could have gone all out. Instead he went — dare we say it? — a tad commercial, albeit with his childish touches and playfulness intact.
In the run-up to the show, the London-based designer called his spring effort “the first collection that is a reflection of me, as a personal fantasy of what I would actually wear.”
Among the highlights in the denim-heavy collection were baggy jeans with origami folds, cool updates on the classic perfecto jacket, Pop Art-tinged patchwork sweatshirts and great Aran sweaters with nautical motifs that nodded to the designer’s Northern Irish roots.
Save for a couple of crafty oversize T-shirts and pants, the collection centered on updated men’s wear staples: the biker jacket, bomber, jeans

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Peter Jensen Resort 2018

For resort, Jensen harked back to the Sixties and early Seventies and took cues from actress Sandy Dennis’ sophisticated style.
Jensen, who admired the charisma of the “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?” star, focused on pared-back silhouettes and worked relaxed shapes into his fun range filled with ladylike pieces with a twist.
The designer said for him, resort is a time when he listens to his customers and considers fabrics, shapes and styles and said his woman is clever lady who is a very secure female that combines her career with fun.
“Commercial is not a bad thing,” said Jensen. “What I find important with the resort collection is that you listen to your customers. We want people to wear it. With resort it can give you a bit more. With the mainline, you can play around and make it more image-building.”
Jensen continued to focus on his brand’s bestsellers such as dresses and shirting this season.
There were classic A-line structured shift dresses done in an embroidered floral fabric laid over an organza. He played with details and placed a twisted bow on pockets.
He experimented with laser-cut cotton fabrications worked into a pleated knee-length skirt, smocked shirts and blouses with an asymmetric hem in

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Rebecca Taylor Resort 2018

Rebecca Taylor took both a pragmatic and fanciful approach to resort. The former, as the designer explained, due to timing. “For us, it’s more about the holiday aspect because when we are talking about seasonality and when we ship, when retail is really selling this — it does not align with what a classic resort package would be — people are not buying resort-y stuff in November,” she said.
The latter refers more to the creative approach Taylor took. “I got really inspired by Victoriana — watching the series ‘Victoria’ on Netflix, all the voluminous sleeves and cinched waists just feel so right now,” she explained.
The result was a superfeminine holiday lineup filled with frilly dresses and flirtatious silhouettes. Sleeves took on the most hype, done in puffy proportions on pretty floral prints or crispy white cottons. Elsewhere, a micro polka-dot print in flowy chiffon showed up on a stretchy, gathered bodice jumpsuit and dress version. Taylor is known for her girly jackets, so this season she offered a great leather floral-print one with dropped shoulders and a fitted waist, as well as a versatile black tuxedo with ruffled shoulder details. “I am loving things that feel fitted in the waist; I

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Brock Collection Resort 2018

To all the hopelessly romantic women who daydream of dressing like a Renaissance maiden in a period piece yet know how that would look (ridiculous), there’s hope for you in Brock Collection. Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock have found a way to bring the fairy tale ethos into modern-day without resorting to costume drama. Their antique floral-driven resort collection was a great example of this.
“We wanted the concept of floral on floral without being overwhelmed by a bunch of different florals,” said Brock, noting that they used a similar floral motif in different colors, scales and bases throughout the collection, which also pushed corset dressing in a versatile, unrestrictive way. Pretty and elegant, the whole lineup had a rustic, faded dreaminess to it, as Vassar and Brock worked in tulle, silk, taffeta and soft burlap.
A burlap off-the-shoulder corset top was layered over a tea-stained tulle floral print turtleneck and matching long pleated skirt. A sturdier tea-length silk dress with a corset bodice was trimmed in sculptural ruffles, one or two of them lined with horsehair to accentuate the female form. A lightweight sundresses with smocking details was sweet and naive. Two burlap corset dresses — one ivory, one flax-colored —

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Watch the Vivienne Westwood Runway Spring/Summer 2018 Show Live

Tune in today at 2pm GMT/9am EST to watch the Vivienne Westwood show.

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More on Vivienne Westwood:
Vivienne Westwood Calls for Consumer Buying Halt
Vivienne Westwood Hosts Bridal and Couture Capsule Collections in West Sussex
 
 
 
 

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Gosha Rubchinskiy Men’s Spring 2018

Georgia-born Demna Gvasalia recently told WWD he’s moving on from the underground club scene and the Eastern Bloc aesthetic which had fueled his Vetements shows, one of which opened with his Russian peer Gosha Rubchinskiy storming down the runway in a DHL T-shirt.
By contrast, Rubchinskiy, who staged his spring 2018 show in Saint Petersburg late Friday night, is still very much in the thick of it. He chose the northern city because it was home to the first raves of the post-Soviet era, when kids were eager to connect with the Western world and express themselves through fashion and parties.
Friday’s event started with a rooftop cocktail at Au Pont Rouge, a department store in a historical building that carries brands like Rick Owens, Marni, Alexander Wang and Gosha Rubchinskiy.
The show was staged at a venue called DK Svyazi, used for rock concerts in the late Eighties. Here the driving soundtrack curated by Buttechno approximated a clandestine dance party, while the runway provided the club gear to match: a sweatshirt with the slogan околорейв, which translates to “near the rave;” fluorescent tracksuits; and an oversized Burberry Harrington jacket, part of a collaboration with the British brand, reminiscent of loutish “chav” style.
The

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London Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2018: Ones to Watch

Bodybound
Born and raised in London, Bodybound creative directors Kim Wilkins and Pliny Champion launched their label in 2012.
The duo met in college. Wilkins studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins and graduated in 2005, then moved on to study men’s wear at the Royal College of Art. He completed the program in 2009. Champion took a more varied route, going from studying biology to environmental public relations and photography. He ended up in fashion, graduating from Imperial College London. They have worked for labels including Alexander McQueen, Ermenegildo Zegna, Matthew Williamson, Halston and Mark Fast. The designers, who produce their collections between London and Bali, were selected by Yohji Yamamoto as finalists for the Hyères award in 2012.
Wilkins said their man is someone who “has an appreciation for subversion.” Champion added: “A little irreverence never did anyone any harm.
“We believe in challenging the relationship between utility and luxury,” Champion said. “We’re interested in the modern masculine aesthetic, and create innovative textiles and engineered knitwear for utilitarian silhouettes.”
Wilkins said the due is “always looking to challenge mediocrity. Everyone’s approach to design is unique, the collections reflect our interests. Our process is complicated, but the message is simple.”
This season the duo will present

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MM6 Maison Margiela Resort 2018

MM6 Maison Margiela’s catchphrases for resort included “industrial, not artcraft” and “similar items, new contexts.” Hmmm. Let’s just say the lineup offered sleek interpretations and twists on both archival and new ideas. The design team emphasized flat silhouettes; pieces that looked terrific in both 2-D and 3-D. For instance, a red, sleeveless knit with zippers up both sides took shape as either a dress or a top while two dresses — one in black and the other in red — revealed a rectangular, tacked-on cape when worn.
Velcro was employed extensively. Socks could be added or detached from Velcro-sole sandals, while a top and dress could be wrapped and fastened in endless ways thanks to the adhesive. Also customizable, in three steps: a pant, top and shoes. The first step comes at purchase: rigid, white cotton pants, kept stiff from a vegetable glue bind. Step two: wash the pants. As this happens, the fabric becomes bleached through and separates, giving the pants a much softer texture. Step three: the canvas can be cut away to reveal great, dark wash jeans with deconstructed details.
While there was less denim than prior seasons, a great pair of jeans with handkerchief hems stood out. Bestsellers

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Victor Glemaud Resort 2018

It was easy to get on board with Victor Glemaud’s goals for his delightful resort lineup of unisex knitwear. He wanted to make it “joyful and charming,” he said. “In this climate we’re in, I want it to be fun.” Mission accomplished with a trompe l’oeil white sweater/black slip tunic dress, a multicolored striped cashmere cardigan and a thick boxy knit top with a dash of Agnes Martin-inspired pastel pink graphics. To show some skin, there were short flirty skirts, crop tops and pieces with decorative slashes. Glemaud also introduced a range of sweatshirts and T-shirts in a Joan Miró-inspired splatter print. “I want it to be seasonless and price accessible,” he said. Because that’s more fun for everyone.
See More From the 2018 Resort Collections:
Mara Hoffman Resort 2018: “The goal was small but impactful,” explained Mara Hoffman of her newest, one delivery, refined resort 2018 collection.
Trina Turk Resort 2018: “We tried something new this year,” explained the designer of her resort line, “we split the collection into two mini capsules.”
Prabal Gurung Resort 2018: The works of London-based Moroccan photographer Hassan Hajjaj informed Prabal Gurung’s resort collection.
Agnona Resort 2018: Late Nineties minimalistic references and sportswear influences were combined with the brand’s signature luxurious fabrics and sophisticated

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Trina Turk Resort 2018

“We tried something new this year,” explained Trina Turk of her resort 2018 collection, “we split the collection into two mini capsules.” Turk’s reasoning behind the decision was simple: addressing her customers’ needs. “There’s multiple things going on at that time of year and we wanted to address the different needs of our customer. There’s an earlier mini capsule that is dressier, more party-oriented. You could wear it to a holiday party or New Year’s Eve…[for the second] it was more “wear now” and you could wear it into spring.”
For holiday offerings, Trina and Mr. Turk offered color-matching separates. For women’s: a standout monochromatic hot-pink off-the-shoulder top with matching trouser; and for men’s: a vibrant reworked ribbon-printed suit. Both were perfect for the couple who don’t mind going unnoticed at a party. A black crepe dress made for the perfect transitional piece between the two capsules.
The second mini capsule revolves around an exotic blooms print, which is specifically placed on separates, like a cotton poplin blouse and gray sweatshirt dress with ruffle details. The offerings were “a bit more casual, and maybe a little bit more cozy.”
See more from the 2018 Resort Collections:
Zac Zac Posen Resort 2018: The Zac Zac Posen collection

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No. 21 RTW Resort 2018

For resort, Alessandro Dell’Acqua indulged freely in what he likes most — the ingenuous subtle sensuality that has marked his aesthetic over the decades.
Unlike his former luxury namesake line, No. 21 is rooted in a solid contemporary vibe, filled with urban and sporty references. For resort, the designer also integrated a lingerie feel, exalted by the use of his signature nude tone.
Epitomizing the spirit of the collection, see-through slipdresses peeped out from the edge of knitted polo dresses, and plissé poplin frocks were embellished with detachable lace sleeves, while a transparent lace tunic revealed a retro-inspired lingerie set.
The delicate floral motif rendered on a range of feminine pieces contrasted with the more masculine appeal of checkered styles infused with a sartorial feel. The word “chérie” printed on T-shirts and tank tops introduced a hint of pop, while feathers and sequins enhanced the glam appeal of the collection.

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Acne Studios Resort 2018

For anyone wondering whatever happened to Veruschka, the 78-year-old model still gives great face — and astounding derrière — as witnessed by her appearance in the look book for Acne’s resort collection.
“This is a collection of Acne Studios archetypes, iconic and real, so I wanted to work with an icon for the shoot,” said Acne creative director Jonny Johansson.
“We asked Veruschka to choose her favorites from the collection, and it was amazing to have this supersonic woman work with such spontaneity,” he added.
Rather than work top-to-toe archetypal looks, as Vetements did last season, Johansson went for a pick-and-mix approach, throwing in items including a boxy cropped denim jacket with exaggerated sleeves, an asymmetrically buttoned plaid blazer and an embroidered Cuban shirt.
He added a quirky touch with bodysuits and leggings featuring a wood print, and off-kilter accessories such as elbow-length suede gloves and Moroccan-style pointy slippers. Message: powerful personalities only need apply.

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Narciso Rodriguez Resort 2018

From a reviewing perspective, saying the clothes speak for themselves is a pretty big cop-out. But all the adjectives one can conjure for Narciso Rodriguez’s resort collection — subtle, pure, modest, sensual — sound too generic to do it justice. Basically, it was a perfect pre-collection, a tight lineup — nothing extra — that cast Rodriguez’s minimalist vision in a soft light. His main inflection points came from couture references, such as the cinched waist on a black dress with a gently voluminous asymmetric skirt; a black stretch knit sweater with a chalky minimalist pouf of a bias-cut skirt; a lightweight crinkled wool shell with impeccable seaming details over a matching skirt. Loosely draped, pristinely tailored, or anatomically seamed and cut out, the fits were excellent. Breezy textures and the use of blush as an accent color infused the look with calm femininity. It was a collection of clothes made to be worn, no discussion necessary.

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Kobi Halperin RTW Resort 2018

Kobi Halperin sees resort as a time for novelty, coupled of course with his brand of ornate embellishment. On a trip to Berlin a few years ago, the designer viewed an exhibition on Kunstkammer, or, Cabinets of Wonder and Wonder-rooms. They featured a curation of beautiful objects and relics that at times had little to do with one another, a parallel Halperin associates with today’s social media obsession, where every pretty thing ends up in one feed. His inspiration was thus born: Bringing together a rich assortment of seemingly disparate details — dry flowers, ostrich feathers, pearl trimming, patched embroidery, etc. — in a collection that bridged high and low.
The tether to the Cabinets of Wonder was brought to life in bright yellow wallpaper-influenced floral prints found on his signature free-flowing blouses. The print showed up elsewhere on a detachable neck piece featuring insect and floral embroidery that could be worn as a stand-alone accessory over leisurely tops or with any of his flowy plissé gowns. He introduced more color, as in a pink gown with gold embroidery, and focused on adding dimension to soft and feminine silhouettes — ruched silk sleeves on blouses, rhinestones on satin tops, ostrich feather trim

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Bibhu Mohapatra Resort 2018

“We almost had a female president. Almost,” Bibhu Mohapatra began during a walk-through in his studio. “This collection is paying attention to the female youth of this era to inspire them to be the best in their own fields, be leaders and [be] inspiring to others.”
For a designer whose career has been steeped in designing eveningwear, how does this message translate over to a younger generation? To start, Mohapatra isn’t designing for the trend-obsessed; his clients look to him for longevity. So his message was subtle, found physically in the form of a honeycomb embroidery that decorated ballgown skirts and a playful organza blouse with rounded shoulders and drawstring ties; the same geometric shape was found on mosaic tiles adorning skirts and full-length dresses. They were both a metaphor for community — as bees work together to build a honeycomb — and being able to accomplish goals by working with others.
Elsewhere, the designer hoped to inspire confidence and courage through more youthful silhouettes and strong tailoring. A sexy black-and-white cutout dress with Japanese lace was clearly targeted at the body confident, as was a bright red top fashioned with dropped shoulders in a Japanese crepe. But the most youthful pieces

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Kimora Lee Simmons Resort 2018

Kimora Lee Simmons takes us into her lifestyle of weekend travels and yacht outings with her resort 2018 collection. The collection includes a range of fluid ready-to-wear that, “a girl cannot travel without….It’s all you need in your bag; you don’t need to bring anything else.” Produced entirely in New York with her contemporary shopper in mind, the collection includes basics, dresses and easy separates that cover ground from day to night. Highlights in daywear included a white eyelash jacquard kimono and easy double-ruffle sleeved tops. Simmons kept the collection lightweight throughout with sequin and brocade evening dresses cut just above the knee.

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Tory Burch Resort 2018

As much as Tory Burch is the main muse and inspiration for her brand, she likes to share the referential love with other impressive women. For resort, she homed in on the friendship between two accomplished style icons from very different backgrounds: Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Princess Elizabeth of Toro. While the former probably needs no introduction, for those less familiar with the latter, she was a Ugandan princess who became the first female Uganda lawyer, one of the first three African women to be admitted to Cambridge University and the first to be admitted to the English Bar Association, the first African woman to have been given a spread in Vogue, the first woman to have served as Uganda’s minister of foreign affairs and the first to be its ambassador to the U.S..
“She’s stunning,” said Burch during a preview of the collection. Jackie and Elizabeth’s friendship began in the Sixties, so Burch drew on the signature silhouettes of the era as well as each woman’s personal style, mingling the classically American with the exotic. Not coincidentally, that mix is quintessentially on brand. There were soft space-dyed knits and A-line leather skirts with hardware details; fully embroidered maxi caftans; a

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Cinq à Sept Resort 2018

An impromptu trip to Rome set the tone for Jane Siskin’s Cinq à Sept resort collection, which the designer admits was completely “on a whim.” “We were sprinting off from Paris, we were going to go to Milan and thought to go to Rome and, it’s funny, we had kind of been feeling those iconic bombshells of the Sixties and Seventies — the Sophia Lorens — it all converged and came together,” Siskin explained.
As a result, looks read very feminine. For starters, an “apricot” matte jersey dress with a tied top (which was attached but made to look as a separate piece) had a very dolce vita feel to it — as did all the printed tiered dresses in floral prints. “We love a twirly dress, our costumer loves the movement,” Siskin said. Embellishments were also present in suits and in short cocktail dresses. But there were also a lot of elevated sportswear for everyday pieces that have come to be expected in a Cinq à Sept collection: Floral embroidered military jackets, printed floral shrunken Ts, denim stirrups — even a windbreaker with feather trims.

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