Afterhomework RTW Spring 2019

For Afterhomework’s first show on the official Paris schedule, design duo Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola reached out to accessories designer Isaac Reina to create the boxy leather bags that peppered the models’ looks.
“He works with Raf Simons for Calvin Klein,” Kaczmarek said backstage, visibly excited. “It was important to us to work with people like him, because we need their support and experience to grow. We’ve never been to fashion school.”
Billing themselves as the youngest designers on the fashion calendar, the duo presented grown-up versions of previous offerings in black, white and blue. Off-the-shoulder deconstructed shirts were paired with teeny skirts or stretch joggers; overalls were delivered in a wide-leg version, and ruched sleeves were added to a spaghetti-strap dress.
A pop of color was added by a red “Afterhomework Polo Club” sweater, an obvious nod to similar Ralph Lauren styles. An AHP logo was also spotted on a black towel thrown over shoulders, mimicking the font of the Calvin Klein logo.

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Manuel Facchini RTW Spring 2019

Manuel Facchini’s signature gothic and rock ‘n’ roll vibes took on a military feel for spring. The traditional epaulettes of army jackets, which got a glamorous makeover via sparkling accents, decorated a long wrap dress, an asymmetric jacket with cutouts on the sleeves, as well as a shirtdress/bomber jacket hybrid.
While the skin-tight leather pants and the biker jackets interwoven with vinyl felt a bit rigid, embroidered dresses with ergonomic cuts and sheer inserts offered a more wearable version of the brand’s futuristic femininity.

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Laura Biagiotti RTW Spring 2019

Lavinia Biagiotti is mapping out the future for the company she inherited from her mother Laura, and she said she wants it to be “joyful and full of energy.” To that end, her spring collection was a colorful ode to Futurism, her family’s passion, as she defined it. The Biagiotti Foundation owns more than 250 Futuristic works and is among the most prestigious collections dedicated to Giacomo Balla. Lavinia Biagiotti reworked details from such masterpieces into patterns on miniskirts, light gauze dresses with ruffles and silk tops. She played with brightly colored stripes, combining them in graphic patterns and juxtaposed with more subtle checks. Balla designs were also reproduced on a simple T-shirt worn casually over masculine baggy pants or on Biagiotti’s bucket bag – as well as on the stage of the Piccolo Teatro, where the brand has been showing for the past 25 years. To further support the storied venue, the designer set up a corner at the entrance where accessories and a pullover from the spring season could be purchased on the spot so that proceeds from the sale would benefit the theater.
The brand’s iconic white knits and dresses were not missing from the lineup and also

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Gabriele Colangelo RTW Spring 2019

Gabriele Colangelo’s spring collection was like a cold drink of water on a very hot day – and not just because the weather in Milan has been at high summer temps all week. His colors were coolly vivid, a mix of optic white, indigo, orange, ice blue, jade and khaki, and his lines were an update on clean, Nineties utilitarianism with a slight techno accent.
White shirts, jackets and slips were treated with artful indigo tie-dye, one of the season’s big trends, here done with colors that looked fresh and intense with each other. Sheer slips were layered over pants and plaid shirts for a neo grunge effect, and tailoring came with structured pleats and contrast-stitched seaming that struck a note of crafty industrial rawness.
 

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Emilio Pucci RTW Spring 2019

Bet you thought the prints at Pucci were something fished from the archive, maybe circa ’67 or ’72. Wrong. They were all spanking new. Not a single reissue for spring 2019, though clearly the historical influence was there. This was to indicate that the house is focusing on the future, as was the unisex collection it released earlier this year, under which the clothes modeled by men fell as well.
To further summon a youthful spirit, the creative team envisioned the presentation as a Carribean Pucci villa, populated by models dancing to reggae beats in a collection of tropical colors and easy fits. There were tank and shirtdresses cut with sprays of pleated and printed swatches. Loose, long shirts were worn open over bright, cropped pants and simple cocktail dresses were embroidered over prints. The throwback Pucci glamour remained intact, but there was a kitschy ease that might appeal to a new generation.

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Cristina Ottaviano RTW Spring 2019

During the first week of June, eveningwear designer Cristina Ottaviano took a trip to Lake Como, which resulted in a fluid, water-inspired spring collection. The designer’s mills are also based in the region, giving her the opportunity to go into them and design the pieces while she was there, which she described as “phenomenal.” The result included abstract interpretations — an off-the-shoulder gown with a printed sequin and stretch tulle base and bustier that mimicked the texture and feel of water or a strapless white gown with gold herringbone bugle cascading across the bust and down the dress. All of the looks were refined and elegant, with pops of surprise and fun, like a light pink suit set, strapless gold minidress or a divine white column dress with a silver top. Next up for Ottaviano: her second bridal collection in October.

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Aspesi RTW Spring 2019

Aspesi is known for its easy-chic outerwear, flattering cotton and silk shirts, well-cut trousers and fresh summery shirtdresses. But in keeping with the Milan-based company’s new goal to reach a wider audience worldwide, Aspesi unveiled a spring wardrobe focused on a more elegant look. Even if the brand’s daywear staples were still there — think linen blazers layered over cotton printed with chic graphic patterns, lightweight trenchcoats and colorful boxy sleeveless tops worn with fluid maxi skirts — the lineup offered its particular take on eveningwear.
This is Aspesi, so there was no bling-bling, no flamboyant decoration or any kind of extravaganza. A group of minimal dresses in bright tones of red, hot pink, purple and yellow were impeccable. A bustier style was embellished with a tiny belt at the waist, a fluid halter-neck design showed crisscross details at the back and a cotton poplin T-shirt frock had a feminine V-neck. A textured brocade fabric was crafted for a sophisticated jacket and trousers matched with a featherweight blouse with a Chinese collar and an allover tone-on-tone beaded pattern.
The collection achieved Aspesi’s aim, moving the brand forward with quintessentially feminine style while not losing its signature discreet Milanese elegance.

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Brooks Brothers RTW Spring 2019

Creative Director Zac Posen delivered a garden party brimming with a youthful take on corporate attire inspired in part by images of Jacqueline de Ribes in the garden.
He introduced a cheeky cherry print, which was cut into a playful pleated skirt and embroidered onto a little T, and undercut the collection with a fresh vintage ease. Pink tweed suiting was enlivened with fluorescent orange specks, while a prim-cut blazer came in a sweet pastel orange. A floral jacquard jacket-and-skirt set harked to the fashion sensibility that could be seen in his namesake secondary line.
The storied brand has been able to draw in younger customers with updates to wardrobe staples that have a modern, easy approach to sophistication. Shirt dressing has been key, and was cut this season with a navy porcelain print and an orange style with a playful wrap belt. No item balanced modish feminine flair with a transitional day-to-evening quality more than a flirty color-blocked dress in blush, ivory and lime.
Posen made sure to offer loyal customers approachable elegance with classic seersucker in driftwood brown, suiting styled with casual striped Ts and stretchy graphic jacquards. For the new professional woman, look no further for a blend of leisure,

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Jenny Packham RTW Spring 2019

After showing in New York for nearly a decade, Jenny Packham came home to London to celebrate her 30 years in business. She staged two presentations at her Mount Street flagship, one for press on Sunday and a separate one for customers — and the public — was planned for Monday.
A celebrity and royal favorite with a flourishing evening, cocktail and bridal business, Packham took Jean Harlow as her inspiration for spring, conjuring a collection with lots of old Tinseltown glamour, inspired by the alluring — and hard-living — actress and Thirties Hollywood star.
“It was time to bring Jean out,” said Packham, who said her interest in Harlow was piqued when she was in Hollywood a few years ago, looking at Marilyn Monroe memorabilia. While the looks she showed on Sunday were beaded and sequined and adorned with Swarovski crystals, she said she wanted to do them all with a light touch.
The old-world glam quotient was high: A version of the silver sequin-paved wrap-front gown has already sold out on Net-a-porter, while a long, midnight blue hand-beaded dress had a plunging V neck.
At the same time, there was always a modern yet demure feel to the clothes. A frothy dress

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Gareth Pugh RTW Spring 2019

Gareth Pugh, one of London’s most celebrated provocateurs, staged his spring 2019 show as an ode to his hometown and to “outsider society.”
Set in a dimly lit space of the Old Selfridges hotel and to the blasting sounds of industrial music, Pugh revisited some of his signatures, to deliver a powerful, high-voltage spectacle.
The show opened with a cry in the dark — Freddie Mercury singing “Why can’t we gives ourselves one more chance” — which made everyone’s hair stand on end. It was followed by a parade of models who stomped down the runway, strutting their stuff in punk, high platform boots that made them look like otherworldly creatures.
The clothes inspired the same punchy attitude. There was a strong focus on tailoring with an array of blazers and tuxedo dresses featuring big shoulders and spliced sleeves, while other signatures like funnel necks and sharp, voluminous trench coats in metallic leather were also peppered throughout the range.
Pugh also brought back a graphic red and orange star print — splashed all over coats and bodysuits — that was first introduced in his graduate collection.
It was a fierce, riotous collection that was reminiscent of a time when fashion was more about a purist,

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Watch the Delpozo Spring 2019 London Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Delpozo Spring/Summer 2019 London Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Sunday, September 16 at 9:00 a.m. EDT.
 

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Xiao Li RTW Spring 2019

“I wanted to create a strong holiday feeling with this collection because to be honest, everyone around me had a holiday in August and I’m quite jealous! I missed mine,” the designer Xiao Li told WWD after the show.
For Li’s holiday wardrobe, stripes reigned supreme, as well as delicate ginghams, bold oversized holographic hats and whisper-weight silk pieces embellished with ice blue crystals.
Wide summer stripes in baby blue, pink and yellow opened the show on a series of boxy jackets with ruff detailing and matching skirts, followed by macs paired with tulle socks and white platform sandals, and pullovers worn over hooded swimsuits. Delicate drop-waisted gingham dresses were subverted with belted leather harnesses featuring structured ruffles that sat atop shoulders, while sleeveless iridescent macs were nipped with contrasting belts with exaggerated buckles.
This season, Li developed a fabric inspired by bubble wrap made using silk that was cleverly transformed into full-cut trousers, delicate fishermen’s vests teamed with flouncy skirts, and a lustrous tiered hem dress that closed the show.

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Versus RTW Spring 2019

“Gianni gave Donatella Versus 1989” was the iconic print of the Versus spring collection, which marks the 30th anniversary of the brand to be celebrated next year. The lineup was unveiled with one-on-one appointments at the brand’s showroom in Milan.
The lettering came printed on a range of easy-to-wear, street-focused pieces, which embodied the urban, young and fun spirit of the brand. T-shirts, dresses with side slits, hoodies, mini pleated skirts, anoraks and jeans created an iconic, bold wardrobe for frisky, cool city boys and girls.
Vintage prints were revamped with a contemporary twist. A hand-painted feel gave an artsy, creative touch to the lettering inspired by Gianni Versace’s Vanitas Designs book. The motif was splashed on camp shirts, leggings, sweatshirts and skirts with nylon waistbands, while a logo with Gianni Versace’s authentic signature pops up on off-the-shoulder cropped tops and sleeveless hoodies.
Multicolor logo patches in a fresh palette of aqua green and neon pink punctuated the sharp-cut indigo denim pants, jackets and mini skirts, as well as the eye-catching nylon parkas and windbreakers.
Drawstring details, net and retro sporty graphics also introduced a touch of athleticism in the colorblocked dresses, tops and track suits, which epitomized the highly energetic, dynamic soul of the

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Lou Dallas Water Bow RTW Spring 2019

As guests filled in to St. Mark’s Church-in-the-Bowery for designer Raffaella Hanley’s spring Lou Dallas show there was a faint sound of someone clearing their throat playing over the loudspeaker. The sound got louder as the downtown crowd settled in and a ballerina began dancing on a stage of the church.
The sound, it turns out, was part of a piece by James K, in collaboration with Hanley, meant to explore how the mouth works and was a recording of people chewing gum. It got louder and louder as a tribe of models, each blowing gum bubbles came down the runway.
The whole thing played to Hanley’s collection of “do-it-yourself” pieces, which she called “Water Bow,” and was inspired by the idea of wading into the South Street Seaport. The thrashed looking silhouettes had a mix iridescent ruffles with sea colors. Repurposed pieces like biker shorts and knit body suits added to the sea vibe. Hanley again embellished pieces with the phrase “Think Otherwise,” her tongue and check take on a statement top. There was a lot going on but some interesting shapes and homespun craftsmanship to see.

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Vaquera RTW Spring 2019

Vaquera’s spring show was like a fun little pop quiz that the whole class already knew all the answers to — no head-scratchers here. Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully showed at P.S. 42 Benjamin Altman on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, the runway winding through cafeteria tables littered with bubblegum, spilled Coke cans and wadded-up loose leaf paper. The “Harry Potter” theme song set up a procession of high-school stereotypes — jocks, sluts, cheerleaders, goths — that twisted through the Vaquera looking glass so that freaks and geeks ruled the school. Is subversion still subversive when the concept has gone so mainstream?
The prom king wore pumps with a literal sweatsuit, a tux made from gray fleece. The cheerleader looked like she had spent the night at a rager in her bra top and tattered mini dress. Football pads were reimagined as a cute denim harness; your little brother’s sports bedsheets were transformed into a voluminous gown, and those finicky Scantrons became a print on a pair of pants.
A footnote on Vaquera’s shownotes defined the label as “a unisex clothing line that redefines luxury fashion through narrative-based collections.” The story they were telling was clear, though it stands to note

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Watch the Michael Kors Spring 2019 New York Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2019 New York Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Monday, September 11 at 10:00 a.m. EDT.

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Zero + Maria Cornejo RTW Spring 2019

“It’s all about strong women,” said Maria Cornejo backstage at her spring runway show. Her inspiration was epitomized in the collection by a print reproducing a work by Chilean artist Gracia Barrios, an abstract pattern consisting of sketched faces of extraordinary international female personalities. The motif was printed, for example, on a fresh cotton top worn with a draped skirt crafted from organic denim, as well as on a maxishirt paired with relaxed cropped pants.
In keeping with her quintessentially chic aesthetic, the designer delivered a beautiful collection where an unfussy urban mood was warmed up by Cornejo’s Latin sensibility, expressed particularly in the color palette of earthy, neutral tones juxtaposed with bright shades of coral red and vivid blue.
By choosing an inclusive casting of women of different ages, Cornejo wanted to highlight the timeless spirit of the collection, one designed to transcend seasonal trends and provide longevity and continuity among generations. While the oversized striped suit that opened the show and a sharp-cut denim jacket worn with matching pants looked more rigorous and infused with a certain mannish feel, the frocks and tops with plunging necks and the satin long dresses and revisited pajama sets revealed the very feminine side

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Nia Imani Franklin, Miss New York, Is the Winner of Miss America 2019

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Rosetta Getty RTW Spring 2019

Rosetta Getty homed in on the work of artist Liz Flynn, who works in many mediums, but whose pottery struck Getty after a studio visit. Getty imbued her spring collection with the colors of Flynn’s ceramic glazes and clays: red, lemon yellow, pool green, bisque and gray. The palette and soft silhouettes — long and languid with hemlines that gently pooled at the feet — coalesced for a serene, organic minimalism. Getty pointed out some bias cuts and spiral details, specifically evening dresses with corkscrew knit fringe, that represented sculptural ease and the quiet hardware details, such as silver zippers, that mark a very subtle branding push for her.

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Watch the Carolina Herrera Spring 2019 New York Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2019 New York Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Monday, September 10 at 10:00 a.m. EDT.

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Longchamp RTW Spring 2019

Anita Pallenberg and Veruschka were name-checked by Longchamp’s Sophie Delafontaine when speaking backstage about what inspired her for spring. She said she was trying to channel a woman who was “elegant and chic, but had a twist of eccentricity.”
This translated to a lineup with a palette of cobalt blue, chocolate brown and clay reds shown in a mix of layered dresses, tunics and vests. Delafontaine diluted the rich tones with several pieces in a leopard print and some semisheer maxidresses in a bright ikat.
She highlighted the French house’s history of leather craftsmanship with leather details that popped up throughout the collection. Delafontaine homed in on iconic Sixties pieces like fringed halter tops and dresses and suede shorts, pairing many looks with a thigh-high gladiator sandal, many of which were also embellished with fringe.
Handbags are synonymous with the privately owned house; Delafontaine updated her cross-body Amazone bag, introduced in fall; on the runway, it was reimagined in a variety of iterations, some with earth stone details with lambskin, a few with fur and of course, more fringe. The fringe was heavy-handed and could have been dialed back some, as nearly every look had some sort of fringe accent.
The show was a

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John Elliott Men’s and Women’s Spring 2019

John Elliott brought a healthy dose of California to New York City for his spring show, taking over a skate park on the Hudson River to drive home the inspiration for the season: Los Angeles. With the 90-plus-degree heat and blazing sun, it was L.A. at its most extreme.
The designer did his best to make attendees comfortable on their colorful milk-crate seats by providing cold water or juice and portable fans. But most faces were shiny with sweat by the time his celebrity guests arrived: LeBron James and Justin Bieber, the latter arriving hand-in-hand with fiancée Hailey Baldwin and grooving to the soundtrack.
Elliott considered his hometown “the most authoritative story” he could tell this season. “Not the stereotypical, glitzy, Hollywood L.A.,” he noted, “but the real neighborhoods — that’s my truth.”
It shone through in its casual vibe and the seamless blend of streetwear and athletic references. Elliott also showed a new maturity by offering up a blend of technical materials and varying silhouettes that took inspiration from different eras to create a never-ending youthful vibe.
His L.A. inspiration was obvious in the slightly oversize shorts and jackets that he emblazoned with a colorful bougainvillea print — a bit out of character

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New York Spring 2019 Designer Inspirations: Part Two

In part two of WWD’s New York Fashion Week pre-show coverage for spring 2019, travel continues to serve as inspirational fodder.
Michael Kors Collection will dream up a “global utopia”; Christian Siriano was inspired by “the perfect dream holiday vacation in Hawaii,” while Mark Badgley and James Mischka are celebrating 30 years in business “through the looking glass.”
Grittier influences include Stacey Bendet’s “Passport to Wonderland” for Alice + Olivia, Veronica Beard’s interpretation of “hot nights in the urban jungle,” and Sally LaPointe’s “sci-fi Western.”
Click through the gallery for more clues into what’s to come this week from Anna Sui, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Prabal Gurung and more.

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Land of Distraction RTW Spring 2019

“She’s in L.A. now, still in the Seventies; she’s become a bit of a groupie with the rock stars, so she’s taking some of their wardrobe and you’re going to see some sparkle,” is how Christian Juul Nielsen, Land of Distraction’s creative director, described the label’s Collection 4. Over the past three seasons, he and executive creative director Danita Short have designed a fresh, modern take on the Seventies-meets-tough-girl aesthetic. For their latest array, they added hints of glamour, in the form of shine for day: Lurex knits such as a striped tank dress and ruffled pussy-bow blouses; a paillette-covered boxy sweater vest with striped varsity collar and a really fun snakeskin laminated cotton twill cropped pant and matching jacket. The duo also expanded into a few cocktail options; a disco-ball-inspired paillette and micro-sequin covered dress made the best case.
New for the brand were men’s wear-inspired wide-cut shorts and two really great shirtdresses — one striped with wide cuffs, another in crisp white with short ruffled sleeves. Shimmery rock-inspired tops and “El Lay” slogan sweaters layered well with the brand’s evolved utilitarian staples and wallpaper printed florals. Next up for the duo? Nielsen has just been named creative director of Hervé Léger, and

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Ariana Grande Says Fiancé Pete Davidson ‘Ticks Every Box,’ Reveals They’ll Likely Marry in 2019

Ariana Grande and Pete Davidson just knew.

In interview with Michael Strahan for Good Morning America on Wednesday, the singer, 25, revealed why she considers the Saturday Night Live star her soul mate.

“It’s just like a feeling, you know?” Grande told Strahan before laughing to herself, adding, “That’s so cheesy. People are always like, ‘When you know you know,’ and you’re like, ‘Yeah, okay, whatever.’ ”

Strahan further pressed the pop star, asking for specifics. “You just feel it… He just ticks every box, and it gets better every day,” she responded. “I’m very grateful for him. Life is beautiful.”

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Grande also admitted she knows all eyes are on her and Davidson, 24, when they step out, saying, “We’re so annoying, huh?… It must be the worst.”

“We’re just grateful, enjoying every minute because life’s too short,” Grande added.

Up next for the couple? Wedding planning — though Grande told GMA the couple is “taking their time.”

“My friends and I, and my mom and everybody have been brainstorming and sharing ideas,” she said. “It’s really fun. I work so much I’ve never spent so much time planning something that’s personal, that feeds my soul so much and my heart. I’m gonna cry. I’m just so excited.”

Grande said that the pair won’t make their trek down the aisle soon, though, teasing, “It’s gonna be like, next year.”

The star also opened up about her new album, Sweetener, released on August 17, and the much-discussed track named after Davidson — a song, she told Strahan, she wrote as a “love letter.”

During the interview, Grande spoke with Strahan about grappling with the terrorist attack at her concert in Manchester in May 2017, which killed 22 people.

RELATED: Ariana Grande Breaks Down in Tears Over ‘Scary’ Manchester Attack: ‘Be There for Each Other’

“I wanted to kind of subliminally honor the Manchester victims,” she said about a track on her new album, “Get Well Soon.” Continued Grande, “I wanted to make the length of the song five minutes and 22 seconds as a way to celebrate and honor them and their lives, because that song is about healing. It’s supposed to be a great big musical hug for anybody going through anything dark.”

RELATED: Ariana Grande & Pete Davidson Show PDA During VMAs Debut as a Couple: ‘Thank You for Existing’

Earlier this week, Grande and Davidson walked their first red carpet together at the 2018 MTV Video Music Awards a little more than two months after getting engaged. Later, when Grande accepted her award for best pop video, she gave her husband-to-be a shout out. “Pete Davidson, thank you for existing,” she said, simply.

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RELATED VIDEO: Ariana Grande Cries While Singing ‘Natural Woman’ in Powerful Tribute to Aretha Franklin

Davidson and Grande started casually dating in late May, PEOPLE confirmed, before getting engaged in June, with the comedian giving the singer a 3-carat diamond ring.

RELATED: Ariana Grande and Pete Davidson Coordinate in Neon Jackets: ‘Subtle Like Our Love’

Davidson dished about the engagement shortly after during a June appearance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon. “I feel like I won a contest, so sick. It’s f—ing lit, Jimmy. It’s so lit,” he said.

He also opened up about their eventual nuptials in a recent GQ interview, telling the magazine that while they don’t really have much in the way of plans, the wedding is “definitely going to happen, for sure.”


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Resort 2019 Trend: Next Wave

Contemporary designers channeled a playful surfer vibe for resort with vivid colors, tie-dye prints and Neoprene.
Styled by Emily Mercer
Photographs by Erik Tanner
Makeup by Amanda Wilson using Fenty Beauty
Hair by Siobhan Benson
Model: Reece Perkins at The Society

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Resort 2019 Fashion Trend: Poppy Plaids

Colorful stripes, alone or crossed to form squares, added graphic verve to contemporary collections for resort.

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Resort 2019 Accessories: A Bright Idea

Accessory designers tuned into color for resort, seeing the season through rose-colored glasses — green, purple, blue and yellow ones, too.

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Men’s Spring 2019: Flying Colors

The men’s collections for spring skew young, vibrant — and very spiffy. A plethora of tailored elements mingle with explosive color and touches of Nineties raver.

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2019 Mercedes-Benz CLS: A Move Toward Electrification

The third-generation CLS has the strong lines, powerful engine and luxury flair you’ve come to expect. But with its EQ Boost, Mercedes finally takes a small step toward electrification. Dan Neil reports
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Mariano and who else? Looking ahead to the 2019 Hall of Fame Class

Now that the 2018 crop is in, we shift our focus forward. Mariano Rivera is a lock, but will other first-timers join him? And what about Barry Bonds and Roger Clemens?
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Kanye to launch Yeezy basketball shoes in 2019

Kanye West, whose Yeezy line has primarily focused on making lifestyle sneakers, revealed in a tweet Friday that there will be a Yeezy basketball shoe in 2019.
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Gigi Hadid and Misty Copeland Star in Pirelli’s 2019 Calendar

Gigi Hadid, Pirelli Calendar 2019Gigi Hadid returns to the annual Pirelli Calendar for a different role.
She, American Ballet Theater principal Misty Copeland, French model and actress Laetitia Casta, and Ozark star…

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Get Smart

Dressing up again — in easy, laid-back tailoring — was a key message of the men’s shows, and a riposte to the streetwear juggernaut.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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A.F. Vandevorst To Present Spring 2019 Collection at Milan’s White Fair

Belgian label A.F. Vandevorst will be the special project of the upcoming edition of Milan-based trade show White, running Sept. 21-24.
The brand won’t only present its spring 2019 collection to buyers and press at the fair’s Tortona 27/Superstudio Più location, but will also celebrate its 20th anniversary with a special installation at the Tortona 31/Archiproducts venue. Here, A.F. Vandevorst will also operate a pop-up show selling limited edition ready-to-wear and accessories.
Putting the focus on Belgian creativity, White will host in the same Tortona 31/Archiproducts area “The Belgian Focus,” a special project developed in collaboration with Flanders DC, a no-profit organization founded by the Flemish government to boost the business of the region’s economy. Through the partnership, seven emerging companies, – including sustainable underwear specialist Ophelia Lingerie, printed textile maker Marlène Madou, footwear brand Morobé, bag label Lies Martens, jewelry house Studio Collect, as well as ready-to-wear firms Mooiloop and Helder Antwerp, – will showcase their creations in Milan.
The next edition of White will also see the participation of Fiorucci, which, as special guest of the trade show, will present its spring 2019 lineup in a dedicated area at the Tortona 27/Superstudio Più venue.

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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Top Men’s Trends for Spring 2019

First came dad sneakers — and now the so-uncool-they’re-cool jeans to match.

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Theory Men’s Spring 2019

Well-known for his take on creating timeless wardrobe pieces with a cool minimalistic twist, Theory’s Martin Andersson’s spring collection keeps building on the same principles it has for the few past seasons: mobility and innovation. 
“We asked ourselves, who is the Theory guy, and concluded that he’s into travel,” Andersson said at the brand’s spring presentation.
A capsule collection focusing on the idea of mobility and travel — packable seam-sealed blazers, travel Mac coats, water-resistant shirts and even a tracksuit — were all designed to be worn from the office straight to the airport.
Andersson has a knack for giving wardrobe staples a cool, minimalist élan via color and cut. His spring palette spanned forest greens, navy, khaki and bright pops of electric yellow and pink that were inspired from Dan Flavin’s light installations at Dia: Beacon.
A standout were the khaki pieces, such as khaki chinos with a contrast waistband paired with a bright pink sweater — a perfect blend of casual and sporty.

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Gucci to Show Spring 2019 Collection at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris

PALACE BOUND: Gucci revealed on Monday that its spring 2019 collection will be presented at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris on Sept. 24 at 9 p.m. The Italian fashion house said this is the first time the location will host a runway show.
Le Palace, located at 8 Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, served for years as a nightclub, drawing members of the fashion and music industries as well as an underground culture.
“The Théâtre Le Palace resonates with the vision of the house as it is a venue that gave life to a (sub)culture that has inspired young generations up until today,” said a statement from Gucci.
This is a one-off show for Gucci in Paris and marks the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele.
Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites. Photographed and directed by Glen Luchford, it depicts Gucci-clad rebels occupying a university campus, passionately challenging the establishment and asking for change. Luchford’s black-and-white photos are inspired by the bold French Nouvelle Vague imagery of the late Fifties and Sixties and by radical filmmakers François

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Borgo de Nor Resort 2019

Borgo de Nor has quickly built a name and a dedicated following around its feminine dresses, with their long, flouncy silhouettes, bold colors and intriguing, surrealist prints.
For its latest resort offering the brand has taken a new direction, sprinkling some equally desirable separates to its offer and reworking some of its dresses for the colder months of the year.
Designers Carmen Borgonovo and Joana de Noronha said the aim was to offer more entry-level price points to their customer, as well as a new, see-now-buy-now element, coinciding with the collection’s retail drops in the winter months.
Signature maxi, ruffled silhouettes were reworked with higher necks and longer sleeves, while the prints – which remained bold and vibrant – were set against a darker color palette of deep reds, emerald greens and blues, evoking a new, autumnal mood.
The design duo continued to explore surrealist art to inspire its prints, producing floral patterns with a more lively spirit and a darker edge.
Among the highlights was an “orchid-leopard print” inspired by a self portrait of surrealist painter, dancer and photographer, Rosa Rolanda, who is pictured with an animal-print orchid on her head.
“When I saw this painting it inspired me to take the idea of a

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Complete Guide to PES 2019 Preorder Bonuses and Collector’s Editions

If you buy something through this post, IGN may get a share of the sale. For more, read our Terms of Use.

Konami’s Pro Evolution Soccer release date is August 24, which means you have plenty of time to figure out which version is right for you. For this year, PES 2019 offers tons of licensed leagues, including Danish Superliga, Portugal’s Liga NOS, Belgium Pro League, Swiss Super League, Scotland’s Ladbrokes Premiership, Superliga Argentine and the Russian Premier Liga, which is a PES 2019 exclusive. There are 9 leagues in total, which should help soften the blow regarding the news earlier this year that PES has lost the Champion’s League license to EA’s FIFA for this year’s edition.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Way-too-early 2019 NHL free-agent buyer’s guide

We slot the players into five tiers, and assess their chances of actually reaching the free agent market next July 1.
www.espn.com – NHL

Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2019

Models running wind sprints and stretching in colorful soccer gear on the runway prior to the show created the ideal introduction for Willy Chavarria’s new collaboration with Danish soccer brand Hummel.
The collection was defined by the use of bright colors and long boxy silhouettes in shorts and tops that paid homage to the designer’s main line. His creative use of the Hummel logo and soccer uniform staples such as numbers and insignias turned them into streetwear-infused details.
The collaboration will also serve to offer sponsorships to New York City soccer players with documented and undocumented U.S. citizens offering support to immigrants, another key element of this season for Chavarria.
His spin on soccerwear served as part one of a two-part spring collection.
For his main line, Chavarria said he pulled from Latino culture of the early Aughts on the East and West Coasts. The “baggy silhouettes” from Venice and Culver City were juxtaposed with the “long rise pants tucked into Timberlands” that defined the urban landscape in the Bronx and Harlem in that era.
The nostalgia kicked into high gear with Chavarria’s take on Polo Sport references: upside-down American flags, yellow trenchcoats and the word America printed upside down on the front of sweatshirts.
There was also

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Hugo Spring 2019

It’s always big news in Berlin when Hugo Boss decides to stage an event in the German capital during Fashion Week. Yet the decision to return with Hugo after a hiatus of seven years was primarily driven by the city itself. Not only was Berlin’s techno culture and “creative energy and eclectic street style” a key influence for the collection this season, but “with its very unique mix of fashion, art, music, literature and tech, it’s a good eco-system to take a brand like Hugo to the next level,” Boss chief executive officer Mark Langer told WWD prior to the show.
And what better place to do that than in the original home of techno, Motorwork, a gargantuan industrial space that Hugo transformed into a dark and gritty Nineties rave environment. The decade also figured strongly in the men’s and women’s looks on the runway, especially in terms of the prints based on ripped and collaged Rave posters or period album artwork, and the oversized, wide-shouldered, tailored silhouette for both genders derived from a Nineties Boss archive piece. However, that jacket and coat silhouette and baggy tailored pants were customized with DIY flair. Drawstrings were used to create new volumes and

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Zuhair Murad Resort 2019

Zuhair Murad embarked on a nautical theme while retaining his signature poetry and femininity, including a range of striking prints used across the collection.
With a stronger daywear focus incorporating a sprinkling of luxe ath-leisure pieces, he included nods to Captain Cook and sailor Corto Maltese, plus their discoveries of plants, Gauguin-esque colors and insects around the Southern Seas.
The most sartorial elements were navy blue or black-and-white outfits, like the sharp-shouldered jackets with tailored trousers and skirts. Shards of compass imagery decorated certain looks — in the form of beadwork and sequins on long black or white evening dresses. A bodysuit could be dressed down or up, and a jumpsuit had a sporty take.
These contrasted well with the fluid dresses with elegant patterns reminiscent of multicolored butterflies or hibiscus. Some standouts included the sweeping V-neck dress with pink, black and yellow embroidery evocative of pixilated butterfly wings and the shorter black-and-white dragonfly-like jacquard knit dress.
Fabrics such as leathers, metal cotton tweed and crepe de chine made appearances, too, adding an even wider reach to this rich collection.

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Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Resort 2019

Raf Simons’ playful exploration of Americana continued for resort, which was full of collegiate references, interesting silhouettes such as oversized shoulders and wider arching sleeves, knits, bold Pop and Technicolors, and technical fabrics like Neoprene. It marked the first time a Calvin Klein 205W39NYC resort collection was presented in Paris, shown in the brand’s new headquarters in the city. It’s a vast multifloor space, spanning 15,000 square feet, that was designed by Simons and his longtime collaborator, artist Sterling Ruby. Architectural design was done by Architecture Research Office of New York.
There was a fluidity to the collection, with mostly pieces that can easily be mixed and matched. Take the blue, red and white intarsia knit sweater with the navy marching band pants featuring graphic, colorful piping and cowboy boots; the silhouette pairing a sporty pink tank with a tie-dye accent and a yellow satin skirt with couture airs, or the pink bustier gown worn over a long green turtleneck dress with orange pumps made of basketball material. Men’s wear took a similarly democratic approach.
A vintage sleeping-baglike fabric was morphed into quilted outerwear, while some knitwear was crafted of found yarn. It’s all something old made into something new — on

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Andrew Gn Resort 2019

Andrew Gn wants to bring back black and white in an Internet age obsessed with color.
Like many designers, he has felt under pressure to use bright hues to make his outfits pop for online buyers. But what about those chic wardrobe staples like a white shirt and a little black dress? “It’s very tricky these days — anything which is visually uninteresting is not really salable online,” he said.
For his resort collection, Gn found a compromise of sorts: graphic black-and-white patterns inspired by the Vienna Secession art movement. A black dress with three-quarter-length sleeves featured the geometric motifs at the neckline and hem, while a day dress came in a deconstructed houndstooth print.
A checkerboard pattern was a recurring motif that translated into color, namely in a yellow-and-white cape dress embroidered with an oversized gold brooch motif. And there were still plenty of Instagram-friendly designs, including dresses in a charming narcissus print.
Still, Gn hopes the tide will turn back in favor of darkness.
“There’s only so many colors you can wear, and sometimes you feel safe and protected and more relaxed in black,” he mused. “I still think that black is a very essential part of the wardrobe, and I truly believe

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Acne Studios RTW Spring 2019

From Coco Chanel to Christian Lacroix, designers’ penchant for designing costumes for ballet goes way back.
Acne Studios’ Jonny Johansson, for his part, when approached by a young choreographer after attending one of his dance productions at the Royal Opera House in Stockholm, politely declined when asked to collaborate on a project.
But the designer, while mulling it over, said he started doing some research and “couldn’t get it out of my system.” He processed it here for spring, presenting his take on “the life of a dancer” in four acts. “I didn’t do what I would have done for [the choreographer], but I did do things that I found on the way,” he said backstage.
The collection was one of his strongest yet. Johansson filtered the dance theme through the Seventies mood he’s been exploring of late, with the peak-collared shirts, crafty crochet trims, and weird palette clashing pale green, rust, red and toffee.
Movement was the connecting thread. The designer sent out extralong, skinny pants in a pleated fabric that gathered at the ankles like legwarmers. Minimalist leather pants and trousers with paper-bag waists were worn with leotards, while long-sleeved jersey dresses and seamless knitted bodysuits went under sheer slipdresses.
A fluid coral

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Ji Oh Resort 2019

The Salvation Army is where Ji Oh often finds inspiration for her collections. “You see all this stuff that’s cool but not your size,” she said. “I made it my size by playing with folds, gathering, buttons and tape that’s used in athleticwear.” Her resort collection was definitely not secondhand, but a deconstructed take on her signature shirting done in oversize proportions tucked, gathered and fitted into artful, but wearable shapes. As a whole, the collection was a bit disjointed, but there were covetable pieces to pick out. A roomy asymmetric button-down white shirt was cut to fall from the shoulders and gently folded along the buttons. Tailored men’s-inspired trenches had shoulder cutouts with buckle details and were feminized buy a long, lean cut. A painterly polka-dot shirt worn front to back captured a do-it-yourself spirit in a sophisticated way.

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Nehera Resort 2019

Nehera took to the mountains for resort, offering a reprieve from the frenzy of modern life with an oxygen-infused lineup of earthy-tinged elegance. A bright yellow pantsuit offered a splash of color, the suit jacket buttoned to one side, the front pocket slightly skewed. The same thick, flowing material was used for a long dress with long sleeves that hung past the wrist.
A feather-light cotton material, with thin, light padding, was used for a laced-up top; paired with short, white, lambskin trousers — a chic rendition of thick, wool mountaineer pants of the distant past. Other nods to the theme included thick-soled leather boots, a contemporary and urban version of the hiking boot, as well as patches with vintage versions of the label’s logo with a stylized Edelweiss flower, applied to a navy blue cotton sweater. Completing the outdoor theme was a handmade wicker-basket purse with leather straps, fisherman-style — pulled straight from the past, no adjustments made and rightly so.

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Stella Jean Resort 2019

Flamboyant, colorful and a bit extravagant. The resort season was all about a joyful and happy mood at Stella Jean.
The designer delivered a cute collection featuring a charming balance between masculine and feminine elements.
Mannish suits and workwear-inspired overalls were embellished with unexpected details, such as fringed trimmings and patches of embroidered parrots, while the hyper feminine midi dresses were crafted from mannish striped shirting fabrics.
An energetic Hawaiian tropical pattern developed in different colors was splashed on lightweight robe coats, slightly flared pants and wrap frocks, while a geometric attitude was introduced in the collection via macro gingham cotton used for both logo camp shirts, skirt suits infused with a certain Western feel, as well as chic short jackets matched with flared skirts.
The charming and summery lineup was completed by bijoux developed in collaboration with Italian brand Rosantica and Philippe Model’s cool fringed and beaded sneakers.

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Rachel Zoe Resort 2019

In the seven years since founding her namesake advanced contemporary collection, stylist/designer/media mogul Rachel Zoe hasn’t strayed from her original MO of providing career-girl-meets-party-girl clothes to the aspirational Millennial customer.
She’s succeeded at melding her own boho-meets-Old Hollywood style (with numerous homages to her idol Tom Ford), all the while honing the quality/perceived value balance necessary for the contemporary category (taking her line in-house after its initial Global Brands Group licensing model was a good move).
For resort, her favorite season, Zoe upped her fabric game, playing with black feather-printed fil coupe with gold accents for off-the-shoulder maxidresses and tops and a silver and black snow leopard-printed taffeta for evening suits. Metallics took on a new breadth, because “for me, metallic is, like, its own color group,” she said.
Each successive Rachel Zoe collection sees new iterations of the Seventies-inspired pantsuit, and this season’s inspired tuxedo dressing included double-breasted white bridal alternatives, some piped in rhinestones or tonal chiffon, liquid sequined versions, as well as double-layered-lapel black crepe with white piping that looked and felt rich. In addition to her signature “Rachel” flare trousers, Zoe played with wider-leg and cropped tomboy options.
“I know my girl may not be buying or wearing a full

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Dondup Resort 2019

For its resort collection, the design team at Dondup drew on the house’s denim expertise to build a lineup of fresh silhouettes with a safari flavor. Jeans were pushed slightly into ath-leisure territory, in a show of confidence from a label that has established authority in the denim department. The wide reach of colors included acid washes and a bright green khaki, which was used to fashion a pair of loose, cropped jeans with one pleat in the middle of each side.
Jungle patterns appeared on cinched dresses and a dressy jacket and shorts combination — also cinched, but with pockets. For shine, the label offered lightweight track suit bottoms, hugged at the waist and ankles by drawstrings. There was a jacket in the same material hung straight to the thighs, sleeves pushed over the elbows — fitting the unique style offered by the upscale and cosmopolitan Italian label.
Anchored with a flagship store in Milan on Via della Spiga, Dondup expanded its web site last year and is gearing up for development abroad.
 

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Unravel Resort 2019

Ben Taverniti channeled the upbeat athletic fashion vibe of the summer issues of Nineties fashion magazines, working total-look outfits in pop monochromatic colors.
The designer used membrane fabrics and drawstrings to add volume, mixing silks, leathers and French terry.
Mirroring the men’s spring 2019 collection were the fusions of streetwear classics on outerwear, including a graphic hybrid black denim jacket spliced with a pale gray anorak, and performance popovers. He also added some dresses, though, catering to demand from retailers, including a pretty blue pleated silk polyester bustier style.
In the mix were cool hybrid knitted hoodies with contrast mesh uppers; distressed white denim with gold piping; voluminous colored cargo pants tricked with drawstrings, and body-con athletic ruched mini-dresses and bodysuits with racer necklines.
Some of the daring palette mixes like hot pink and red recalled Eighties Yves Saint Laurent with a fun couture, disco vibe infusing some of the looks including the red-and-white striped pussy bow blouse paired with high-waist bleached denim with rips and scrunchy colored nylon boots.

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Katharine Hamnett Men’s Spring 2019

The designer worked a mix of street, tailored clothing and some old favorites into this fully organic and sustainable collection. One of fashion’s sustainable clothing pioneers — she was demanding organic cotton long before most — her voice has a new resonance in this age of sustainability.
She’s even brought back her 1983 “Choose Life” slogan, which she plastered on a hoodie for spring. “The anti-abortion lobby nicked it — and now we’re nicking it back,” said Hamnett, who originally came up with the slogan as an antibattle, no-nukes cry in the Thatcher-ite era. A pink sweatshirt with the slogan “No More Fashion Victims” was another archive revival.
Hamnett’s mix included a magnified molecule pattern by the artist Jeffrey Pine on cotton denim trousers, boxy silk shirts and logo sweatshirts. She also made breezy button-front shirts using organic cotton muslin from Switzerland, and was particularly proud of the softness of the fabric.
The designer worked organic linen into a roomy baby blue Zoot suit and brought back a pair of faded flared jeans, the streetwear of the Seventies.

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Giambattista Valli Resort 2019

“I really believe now, more than ever, in the mix of cultures and being open to other cultures,” said Giambattista Valli who likes the idea of a muse who “You can’t place geographically; they can come from all over the world.”
Taking this nomadic state of mind, with signature florals and the brand’s clear sense of femininity the linking thread, highlights ranged from a day-to-night black sequin pantsuit with pink floral embroidery to a flower-embroidered boucle coat with fringed trims.
The delicate workmanship continued on a charming dress in a mix of Chantilly lace and macrame embroidered with lamé thread. Perfect for a summer tea party was an ivory dress embroidered with Indian “tree of life” symbols mixed with Chantilly lace and prints based on Japanese chrysanthemums.
The designer’s fledgling sports line had also blossomed, with among new pieces beach caftans and a tracksuit in an overlay of point d’esprit lace. More elaborate styles included a track top in a patchwork of Japanese chrysanthemums printed on nylon mixed with graphic bands of Chantilly lace.
Valli said the collection was aimed at women of all generations, from young ladies to Lee Radziwill.
“It’s important in this Millennials-hysterical moment to look at what youth is today; youth

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Hermès Men’s Spring 2019

Véronique Nichanian showed a younger, sexier side to the Hermès man.
The designer continued with the athletic references, her take on the elevated lifestyle. The tailored jogging pant added to the man-on-the-move mood, revisited in different colors including light yellows blended with a sharply tailored blazer. The tennis-style short shorts added to the retro athletic undertone of the collection.
The on-trend three-button leather suit in a light shade of stone, worn without a shirt, showed a new sensuality.
Adding to details like the prints and the draping of the clothing, the collection’s color palette, with the combination of shades moving from saturated tones to pastels, was beautiful.
An enlarged camouflage print on a sweatshirt had a painterly Cubist feel, with hippy-luxe tie-dye bags playing off the collection’s bright colors.
Also standout were the silky blousons with side zippers, at times gathered at the back, and a look combining a bottle-green track pant with a bold blue and white side stripe and a super-thin graphic sweater with a zipper.
The elegant fine knits with ripple accents or python effects were  dreamy in a collection that exuded pure luxe fashion.

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Sacai Spring 2019

Chitose Abe set out to defy pre-conceived notions about clothes — for men and women — and she succeeded with a collection that was a color-packed mosaic of traditional tailoring, Native American blankets and nature-inspired designs from Hollywood tattoo artist Dr. Woo. These conceptual collections are loaded with risk: In the wrong hands they can look pretentious or sloppy – not to mention unwearable – but in Abe’s nimble fingers, Wow!
Her glorious hybrids included a jacket that was part tailored pinstripe, part army green anorak; blankets that morphed into kilts – and vice-versa – and a one-sleeve fisherman knit sweater. Oversized jackets and coats, meanwhile, zipped up and down to create different shapes and volumes.
Abe worked with Pendleton, better known for its Southwest American blankets, on pieces such as anoraks, trousers, long pleated dresses and capelets that were adorned with the traditional geometric patterns. The brand also worked with Nike on color-blocked, double swoosh sneakers that captured the whimsical mood of the collection and will make their shop-floor debut in January.
Woo’s delicate tattoo designs were re-born as embroideries, with birds, bugs and nature-inspired motifs adorning pieces including a cobalt blue button-front coat, two-tone satin baseball jackets and a shrunken pink

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Junya Watanabe Man Spring 2019

Forward, march! Looks with a military edge have been striding across the Paris runways, although they’re more of the Boy Scout than the Général de Gaulle variety, with lots of knee-length shorts, flak jacket/fishing vest hybrids (a major trend on the men’s runways) and fresh takes on camouflage.
Junya Watanabe charged ahead with the idea for his latest collection, which unfurled against a backdrop of a long, slightly droopy, army tent and to some foot-tapping military tunes, including the theme song from “The Bridge on the River Kwai.”
Looks included pinstripe shirts, gingham or plaid jackets with bright camouflage patches on the elbow, cropped cargo jeans and skinnier cotton trousers, too. To-the-knee shorts were done in traditional suiting patterns, while models wore vests dotted with pockets large and small. One of those vests even had what looked like a solar panel and an iPad pocket. Other bags, large and small, were slung across the chest or back in primary shades of red, blue or yellow.
While bright camouflage – we get the oxymoron – may have been the prevalent pattern, it certainly wasn’t the only one: The collection ended with a flurry of T-shirts, printed with thick or thin stripes, yellow and green fruits,

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424 Men’s Spring 2019

In his debut official showing to the press, Los Angeles-based streetwear designer Guillermo Andrade wanted to talk about more than just fashion. Referencing what he described as a decaying interpretation of Americana, Andrade sought to question the American Dream in the context of current events — as a Guatemalan immigrant to the U.S., he has firsthand experience of situations similar to those that have hit the headlines in recent weeks — and the prevailing preppy vision of American ideals.
One hoodie featured a blurred print of an abandoned Detroit school with the Stars and Stripes turned upside down in the foreground. Another theme showed haunting pictures of a decaying theater in a dusty color palette inspired by Detroit.
The basics — printed T-shirts, simple yet well executed hoodies, denim items — were stonewashed or given a hand-painted feel that transmitted the same message in a more subtle fashion.
Elsewhere, Andrade brought in new shapes and techniques for spring that have been enabled by producing certain pieces — a black leather shirt, another in black silk, pinstripe drawstring pants and matching worker’s shirt that are as close as he would like to get to suiting, or quirkier 3-D-printed silk chiffon check pants — in

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Ambush Spring 2019

Yoon Ahn took Ambush to the beach for spring, considering waves and forms, but also its meditative reach.
“On the surface level, it’s beachwear, something easy,” she noted, surveying models dressed in knitted crop tops, roomy trousers and wetsuits.
But this is a label that established itself by bending familiar references to give them new scope, and here was beachwear suitable for the streets. Oversize cotton and linen shirts and trousers, with thin, ivory cords dangling from waists, contrasted with body hugging wetsuits. Working with neoprene for the first time, the designer said she enjoyed pairing the wetsuits with knits and leaving them off the shoulders, arms hanging down the sides.
Jewelry, which has ebbed slightly as the label’s clothing offer expands, remained prominent, thanks to the introduction of pearls, fat and round, sometimes in large drops. Strands were knotted on wrists, with dangling gold drops at the tips, adding dimension to the feminine touch in the coed lineup. The traditional Hawaiian lei was recast in metal and charms included inflatable animals, also in metal.
Standouts included light puffer coats that stretched down like skirts with double layered front panels, in plum or safety yellow—bring your sleeping bag to the beach, was her message,

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Emilia Wickstead Resort 2019

The designer had Nouvelle Vague cinema in mind and, in particular, the searing, intense colors of the sets on films such as “The Umbrellas of Cherbourg” and of the elegant shapes and drapes of the actors’ costumes. “I wanted the collection to be experimental, cheerful — and exciting,” said Wickstead.
Wickstead is known for her high collars, full skirts and clean lines and they were out in force, but with a retro French Riviera feel. There was a jaunty, tricolor gown cinched at the waist, a fluid red dress with ruching on the sleeves and at the hips and a short aqua one with full, smocked sleeves. A gold lace dress was as glam as it gets, and the only accessories missing from it were a dry martini and a cat-eye flick.
Wickstead put a spiffy spin on some everyday looks, too: White denim pieces had rose-colored stitching while a flower-print dress and matching coat had patterns inspired by the curtains and wallpapers of the Nouvelle Vague era. Both were made from a featherweight raincoat fabric, and suited to women whose summer backdrop is more Côte de Yorkshire than Côte d’Azur.

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2019

With all of the week’s obsessions with everything from the new brand of streetwear to  wild prints and neons and Eighties and Nineties nostalgia, Giorgio Armani proved a welcoming relief from the trend chasing.
This was the Maestro in his element, a moment of softness and simplicity, taking the audience to a far-off place. The super-elegant collection – centered around the double-breasted jacket – catered to the languid lifestyle of a global nomad traveling around the world, pulling on myriad references but with a cohesiveness and coziness to his wardrobe.
Playing with proportions, the designer channeled an elegant gentleman – or at times gentleman farmer – off duty, albeit interpreted through an urban lens, with a palette of mineral colors. With straw hats, fedoras and leather espadrilles among the accessories, Armani focused on his signature super-soft constructions, from gaucho-style oversized pants worn with stitched leather waistcoats over long-sleeved T-shirts to suede safari jackets, printed silk pajamas with digitalized ikat-style prints and those double-breasted jackets, most with peak lapels and all in the relaxed silhouette the designer made iconic.
A look combining crisp cotton pants worn with suspenders and patterned knitwear was another pure Eighties Armani moment, but felt timeless.
Even the unconstructed double-breasted linen suits

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Spring 2019

FIRST PRADA: “Any time spent in Italy is well spent,” said American actor Nick Robinson at his first Prada show, although for the moment his time in the country was limited to the Italian designer’s event. His summer included “traveling a couple of weeks in the Northwest [of the U.S.], a beautiful area, with as many adventures as I can, but I have no plans yet — I just want to be spontaneous.” Prada tapped Robinson for its most recent 365 campaign, and the actor, seen in Greg Berlanti’s 2018 film “Love, Simon,” said attending the show was “a rare, unique experience,” as he rarely attends fashion shows. “It’s such a fascinating world, and whenever I get the opportunity, I usually take it.”
American actor and singer Algee Smith, also in Prada’s campaign, was equally star-struck. “This is my first show, I’m super excited.” He said that shooting the campaign — his first ever — was “nothing like I expected, we were in a warehouse and there was such an adrenaline rush…” The artist said his next album is coming out, as well as the movie “The Hate U Give,” expected to be released in October. Directed by George Tillman Jr.

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Canali Men’s Spring 2019

For his first collection at Canali, Hyun Wook Lee evolved the storied sartorial tradition of the brand with good taste and sophistication—and an impressive color palette that spanned from powder pink and ice gray to brick red and deep ocean blue. He called the collection “Lui,” or “Him” in English, and presented it at Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology, dividing it in four sections: Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration.
In a nod to comfort, Equilibrium blended formal and casual wear, with sartorial wool, linen and silk blends used in sportswear. The designer re-elaborated the Canali name with a graphic play as an all-over print on the cotton-linen button-up shirts and the silk ties.
In the Dynamism room, colors were bolder, ranging from green to burnt sienna. The button-up shirts were styled as jackets, and cotton chinos were worn under jersey knits and over sneakers in a houndstooth fabric.
In the third section, Steadiness – which may also serve as Canali’s mantra, as the company stays the course without treading too far from its core values and without alienating its existing customers – blazers were feather-light and deconstructed to only two layers of canvas.
The lineup in the Inspiration room was meant to point

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MP Massimo Piombo Men’s Spring 2019

Gearing up for his debut collection as creative director of Italian retailer OVS’ men’s line for the fall 2019 season, Massimo Piombo for his namesake line stayed on course with a compact collection of silhouettes and assembling a cocktail of references from around the globe.
The designer layered old school blazers over vibrant cotton tunics in printed fabrics hailing from far-flung destinations like South Africa and Sri Lanka. Playing on contrasts, a traditional check was used on a technical coat, while a black raincoat was cut from a pure mohair cloth typically used for suiting.
Offering a more bohemian direction were tonal looks pairing a vibrant red and black striped spin on a cricket jacket with a patterned silk scarf worn on the waist, like a cummerbund, and a navy blazer with a striped Scandinavian marine knit or a yellow silk shirt — looks capturing the distinctive panache and sense of color for which Piombo is known.

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Resort 2019

Inspired by all things Eighties, from The Stone Roses to the Second Summer of Love, Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton delivered a resort collection that incorporated the era’s high-shine with their signature sporty, glam-rock aesthetic.
Sickly sweet pastel pink, blue and green ruched skirts and tops reminded Bregazzi of the Peace Movement, while glitter-ball sequinned dresses brought back memories of disco queens.
“Everything was easy and casual, you could dress however you wanted and no one would be documenting it on social media,” Bregazzi recalled.
A sense of ease and a focus on form could be felt throughout the collection. Fuss-free dresses, trench coats and asymmetric skirts featured elasticized details, hidden zippers or drawstring cords to adjust for all body shapes, while silk devoré dresses could be transformed into more form-fitting styles using net overlays.
Elsewhere, the design duo introduced  prints, as in an ethnic pattern on laid-back knitted jumpers, a laser print graphic on bicolor dresses and a hazy floral print on ruched jersey dresses.
To bring the Eighties forward to the present, the duo focused on mash-up styles, adding sportswear and more classic silhouettes to the mix. A white shirt with a nylon drawstring waist attachment and a black silk dress with puffy tracksuit sleeves were among the standouts.

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Victoria Beckham Resort 2019

In her 10th anniversary year, Beckham is aiming to increasingly connect with her customer, listening closely to what she’s asking for, and hoping to cater to her everyday dressing needs. The designer was animated during a walk-through at her new headquarters in west London, talking about how much fun she had with guests during a recent trunk show at Scott’s restaurant on Mount Street. She said the show really got her thinking about “what my customer wants and likes, and about what I can give her.”
The collection was filled with glammed-up everyday silhouettes and the clean lines Beckham loves so much. There was an abstract cowhide print on a long white silk dress, and cream and red versions of the navy, buckle-neck blue dress with the slashed sleeves that Beckham wore to the royal wedding last month. She’s planning a limited run of those — by popular demand from customers — which will land in stores next month.
There were snappy, tailored wool gabardine suits, raw Japanese denim worked into a vest and a fabulous trench, and “a good, well-fitting pair of leather trousers,” which the designer said is not so easy to find these days. There was also a lineup

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A.L.C. Resort 2019

Andrea Lieberman is in the midst of celebrating the 10th anniversary of her collection and opening a slew of stores. She felt it was a good moment to take stock. “It felt really natural to look at the codes of the brand and what we set out to do when we first started, and that was to make everything really easy,” she said during a preview of her resort collection. “It’s great for pre-spring to be easy and versatile and great wardrobe pieces that are very real.”
There was no better way to describe the inventory in the lineup. Much of it was pared-down and classic — the perfect khaki trench, the perfect blazer with a bit of a curved hip, the blue button-down shirt with sleeves engineered to bunch just right. There were chic-ed up tracksuits and skinny leather pants, all very down to earth but cut with sophistication, nothing boring. On that note, while Lieberman stayed grounded, she was sure to offer a few bright, party pieces, such as a red wrap coat and a spare orange knit dress with a high slit that was cut as tastefully as a dress that clung to every curve possibly could be.

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Merlette RTW Resort 2019

The ability of a fashion brand to grow slowly, without pumping out overtly trendy but continually refreshing silhouettes over the period of a few years while generating sales is an impressive feat in this day and age. Designer Marina Cortbawi’s line of roomy cotton silhouettes for Merlette, offered with thoughtful, smaller details each season, is an example of this type of brand. For resort, Cortbawi infused subtle “non-print” print into her otherwise solid lineup through a calla lily line drawing while adding hand-embroidered details to her ever-evolving line of easygoing, cotton attire. Although her customer stated they didn’t want a print, her artful Ellsworth Kelly, Robert Mapplethorpe and Georgia O’Keeffe-inspired flower was so subtle, even when embroidered on a caftan, that it fit just right.
For instance, her billowy tiered or smocked tops and dresses were given with gold handwoven stitching onto more updated, boxy shapes. Double-V eyelet tops with pintucking, Italian tumbled cotton dresses in navy and coral colored frocks with tie details also made for nice newness to the collection. Although there was a lot of newness, the pieces felt at home with Merlette’s unpretentious, resorty DNA, where fabrics are the forefront of design. For instance, two of Cortbawi’s most

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I’m Isola Marras Resort 2019

Country inspiration meets Nineties’ dance references in the young and fun I’m Isola Marras collection.

For resort, creative director Efisio Marras combined more classic fabrics, patterns and silhouettes with neon tones and street influences in a versatile lineup, which perfectly embodies the eclectic nature of contemporary city girls. They can easily pick a romantic maxidress with a cotton eyelet bustier detail for a summer garden party and pack a dégradé multicolor cardigan and HotPants with a matching top on a cow motif for a weekend in Ibiza.

Along with delivering a range of floor-length frocks in several patterns, from rustic checks to spike prints, Marras also crafted an interesting scratched denim for an oversized suit and pants with coated yellow inserts, as well as cotton flee for comfortable and cool pieces, such as baggy shorts worn with a matching coat showing a chic damask panel on the back.

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‘Kingdom Hearts III’ Gets January 2019 Release Date

“Kingdom Hearts III” will arrive on January 29, 2019. Square Enix confirmed the launch date in a tweet early Sunday morning. The news comes almost thirteen years after the previous entry in the beloved Disney / Square Enix franchise. We’ve announced the release day for KINGDOM HEARTS III ahead of E3 at the KINGDOM HEARTS Orchestra […]

Variety

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Qasimi Men’s Spring 2019

Khalid Qasimi’s nomad packed up his tent and continued to wander — and what a journey it was. Filled with chunky V-neck sweaters, roomy layers and laid-back, tailored separates, the collection was a refreshing alternative to the glut of streetwear on so many European catwalks.
Qasimi has always been a romantic, looking to history and human relationships for his bohemian-edged collections: This season his washed ikat prints on boxy shirts were inspired by maps and markers inside old archaeological guides while heartbreaking slogans, such as “We are so different now,” appeared on shirts or the edges of jackets.
The designer likes to refer to his collections as “a broad range of wardrobe staples for the constant traveler,” but they are so much more. Colored, woven ties — like bracelets sold on Europe’s street corners and beaches — appeared as drawstrings on oversize hoodie tops, fluid, tracksuit-style trousers, or as skinny belts cinching the back of loose navy or khaki tailored jackets.
The designer worked heavy, washed denim into oversize trousers with low-slung waists, and plied an equally hefty workwear cotton fabric into patchwork trousers and bombers in shades like cornflower, buttercup, olive and stone. Those colors came from a bigger palette that also took

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Daniel Fletcher Men’s Spring 2019

For spring 2019, Daniel Fletcher reworked the classic suit through his personal lens. He expressed his frustrations with the more restrictive business side of running his label with a collection featuring classic tailoring that was shredded, corseted and had dark overtones of a debaucherous weekend.
‘I have this feeling of restraint because there are so many restrictions with running my label that I wanted to break free,’ Fletcher said. ‘I like this idea of this businessman who’s gone out for a wild weekend after an 80-hour week. I wanted it to feel sadistic like where did he end up on this Friday night out.”
He subverted traditional menswear including suit jackets, slim trousers, shirts and leather jackets in its finishes – an exposed lining hanging out of the suit, slashes on the backs of the legs and rope detailing that bound seams together. There was a strong sense of angst and a need for freedom in the collection, which was juxtaposed with a poetic restraint – corsets atop shirts and wrapped around suits, as well as leather halter-tops that fitted like a second skin.
Fletcher collaborated with artist Caitlin Keogh for the prints seen on his silk shirts, featuring female torsos bound by

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New York Men’s Dates to Move to June in 2019

Don’t get too attached to the July dates for New York Fashion Week: Men’s — they’re changing.
Starting next year, the Council of Fashion Designers of America will shift the dates for the spring men’s shows to the first week in June. This will not only coincide with the fledgling New York women’s resort season, but will also allow American designers to show before their European counterparts.
London has historically kicked off the spring season with shows that start this year on Saturday. That’s followed by Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan and Paris. For six seasons, NYFW: Men’s has brought up the rear with shows in mid-July.
But a successful mega, 10-day, dual-gender fashion week this past February has prompted the shift starting in 2019.
“The July timing is problematic for a lot of brands,” said Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “So this will be the last NYFW: Men’s in July.”
In February, he said, the men’s shows will once again be timed to run on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday before the women’s calendar starts on Thursday. ”It worked really well,” he said. But the spring shows will now start before London.
“The designers are really

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Lafayette 148 Resort 2019

Creative director Emily Smith’s efforts to take Lafayette 148 into more youthful territory hasn’t gone unnoticed. She’s injected the brand with a sense of polished ease, balancing staple shirting with subtle updates against more fashion-driven statements that are still approachable.
She’s long mined inspiration from art, architecture and travel, this season focused on Sonia Delaunay, a Ukrainian-born French artist in the Twenties who also held roles as a costume designer and automobile designer. There was a gloss of Art Deco references with a fresh approach. Smith worked Delaunay’s love of geometric motifs into circular patterns decorating flirty dresses and stripes onto separates.
The big story here was the “third layer” item — lightweight outerwear that topped off looks without the weight. A silk trench in oversize check was both playful and cool, while an embossed leather duster maintained effortless sophistication styled over office essentials. The linear lines of one bluish gray coat were marked with hand-embroidered chains mirroring the contrast stitching of a core black and white group. The ease of the outerwear translated to other categories, too, namely boyfriend shirting and soft-tailored suiting — in particular, a ruby red set was the perfect holiday outfit for a girl who wants chic

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Tadashi Shoji Resort 2019

“Don’t be restricted. Keep moving,” read Tadashi Shoji’s notes for their mostly sporty resort collection. Athletic references made for fresh daytime updates to the usually embellished evening brand aesthetic. There were dresses with graphic scuba cutwork, mesh sleeves, perforated knits and shoulder cutouts; two of the best included pleated skirts. A white lace number with a ribbed knit outline that resembled an athletic jacket also made for a fun, younger offering. When it came to logomania — full-length on longer evening gowns and in athletic band details — the brand should have stuck to its show notes and moved right along.

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The V&A Taps Dame Mary Quant for 2019 Retrospective

LONDON — Mary Quant, the queen of mod known for popularizing the miniskirt, is to be the focus of a show at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London next year.
The retrospective, which is set to open in April 2019 and will run until March 2020, will be the first international exhibition about the designer in 50 years, and will spotlight her work between 1955 and 1975.
The museum is also making an open call to the public for one-off designs from Quant’s Bazaar boutique, pieces from her 1963 “Wet” collection and clothes made by the public with the designer’s 1964 Butterick patterns.
The exhibition aims to highlight the 88-year-old Quant’s experimental approach and mod aesthetic, which was instrumental in shaping the Swinging Sixties scene.
“She freed women from rules and regulations and from dressing like their mothers. This long-overdue exhibition will show how Mary made high fashion affordable, and how her youthful, revolutionary clothes made British street style the global influence it remains today,” said Jenny Lister, curator of the exhibition.
Pieces will be drawn from the V&A archives, Quant’s personal collection and loans from the public. The retrospective will showcase more than 200 objects, including films, sketches, photographs and personal testimonies, illustrating the

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Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2019

Who are the Salvatore Ferragamo customers? That’s the question the brand is trying to answer as it renovates its image.
For resort, women’s creative director Paul Andrew and men’s design director Guillaume Meilland worked together to define a cohesive and coherent wardrobe able to celebrate the brand’s heritage and at the same time to make the fashion house relevant for contemporary customers.
Rather than tapping too aggressively into current trends, they managed to develop a sophisticated, elegant dress code, which looked fresh and modern yet still sober and discreet.
Workwear served as source of inspiration for a women’s oversized denim trenchcoat punctuated by contrasting stitches, as well as for a flared skirt embellished with grommets and utilitarian pockets. This was paired with a sleeveless caban crafted from a precious double-face cashmere, which was also used for a chic asymmetric slipdress trimmed with blanket-like fringes at the bottom.
The impeccable sartorial attitude of the men’s suits, worked in lightweight constructions, also returned in the women’s range with slightly oversized blazers worn with tapered pants, which were cropped at the ankle to show the new Vara booties.
A sense of ease echoed in a group of cotton and linen pieces in classic safari-inspired colors. This included a men’s shirt

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Sonia Rykiel Resort 2019

Julie de Libran is saying it with flowers for the cruise season. The designer’s collection for Sonia Rykiel revolved around a botanical theme, with floral prints lending her Seventies-tinged urban wardrobe a poetic charm.
The lineup played off her signature masculine-feminine contrasts. A pleated mini dress with an all-over lily of the valley print was toughened up with matching platform boots and a black leather donkey jacket, while appliqué leather blooms crept along the collar of a raw canvas sleeveless coat.
Men’s tailoring inspired a series of Glen plaid pieces such as a coat outlined in colorful piping details that recalled founder Sonia Rykiel’s penchant for turning clothes inside out. Outerwear reflected a utilitarian streak, with hybrid items such as a peacoat with red nylon puffer jacket sleeves.
De Libran worked the floral effects into the house’s signature knits, which included a blue openwork sweater embroidered with mimosas made of tiny yellow beads. Knitwear textures ran the gamut from a fluffy tweed-effect T-shirt dress to a preppy camel raincoat — perfect for channeling Ali MacGraw in “Love Story.”

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Pringle of Scotland Resort 2019

Fran Stringer, women’s design director at the Scottish brand, was in a playful mood this season, channeling sports teams and British youth tribes of the Seventies and Eighties with a host of punchy colors, patterns and preppy details.
Highlights of this energetic collection included a hand-knitted cricket sweater, artisanal tie-dye twinsets in juicy fruit shades and oversize cashmere hoodies — including one in searing hot pink — meant for layering under lightweight summer trenches.
Stringer also worked bright colorblocks and chopped-up argyle patterns into sweaters, all in the name of youthfulness, timelessness and versatility. “I want the collection to transcend the seasons,” she said.

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Tanya Taylor RTW Resort 2019

Designer Tanya Taylor is well-known for her use of color and painterly prints, so it is easy to see how her resort collection was inspired by two recent exhibitions, one by David Hockney at MoMA and one by Josef Albers at the Guggenheim. Color and graphic prints are home base for Taylor, but for resort she wanted to zero in on the idea of “key pieces” for her customer.
Taylor’s “key pieces” are anything but basic and come in the form of a deep purple mohair sweater with boatneck collar; a pony skin leopard print sheath dress; a printed long-sleeve pajama-style button-up dress with white piping; soft hammered satin dresses and skirts in saturated green and purple prints, and gray cashmere sweaters with sheer black lace cutout details.
Taylor sees these clothes as seasonless — meant to be mixed and matched, and to her point, she blended in easy flowy blouses and dresses in neutral black and cream prints and a few denim pieces like overalls that felt like a fresh way to cut all the color.
Extended sizing, Taylor noted, was a booming part of her business. The designer introduced it in pre-fall 2017 and it’s been steadily growing since. “We pick

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Marissa Webb Resort 2019

Every Marissa Webb collection begins with a man. It’s not surprising as the designer has cultivated a masculine-feminine narrative.
This season began with a deep dive into Google and an image of an effeminate male wearing a bleached jumper in a Seventies ad. (Possibly a date ad, Webb isn’t quite sure.) It inspired the bleached denim pieces in the collection — a couple of great high-waisted shorts with wide-leg openings, and a shirt jacket and jeans with distressing she does herself with a Dremel tool.
She also searched various names and places like Charlotte Rampling, Lauren Hutton, Thailand and Spain, which would explain the casualness in flirty dresses and suiting and the saturated color palette. Where Webb excels is at the intersection of the hard-soft, structured-fluid spectrum. Casual white Ts were dipped in paillettes, hand-painted floral patterns were cut into short suits, and ruching and ruffles were done in atypical crisp canvas to better maintain shape. Other highlights included feminine-inflected tailoring, like boxy blazers with ruffle sleeves, soft-tailored frayed suiting and leather pants with more leg room.
“Everything stands alone,” Webb said at a preview, adding: “Everything has a casual element, even if it feels dressed up, you can pair it with flats.”

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Veronica Beard RTW Resort 2019

Casual polish is the endgame at Veronica Beard, where sisters-in-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard update American classics with novelty and, for resort, athletic undertones. They looked to the glamour and sexual femininity of the Eighties and early Nineties, delivering a blend of tailoring this season set against casual sportswear and colorful prints.
Elevated takes on suiting included an off-the-shoulder blazer styled with a multichain belt (which, really, would add considerable edge to any outfit) and a red blazer featuring the designers’ take on the double-breasted silhouette. Leather suiting and twinsets with detachable gold chains leaned heavily toward the Eighties, but were toned down with graphic “Veronica” Ts and track-inspired techno knit pants with great recovery.
There was also novelty. To wit: Bold plaids, scarf prints and engineered florals provided a playful visual element while denim featured crystal buttons. The designers also reworked classics like the trenchcoat into a cropped style with athletic stripes, a reversible version with plaid fabric, and into one of their signature dickeys.
With the anticipated opening of two more brick-and-mortar stores by the end of this year, the designers will need to offer as many dickey options as possible to the new customers they’ll be sure

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Fendi Resort 2019

The modern woman’s combination of strength and delicacy served as the main inspiration for this beautiful Fendi resort collection. In keeping with the brand’s latest fall runway show, creative director Karl Lagerfeld continued to define a special wardrobe where sartorial shapes and precise silhouettes were softened by handkerchief embroideries and exquisite, precious details.
Impeccable double-breasted jackets were cinched at the waist with sporty backpack-like closures and matched with cigarette pants showing attached pleated skirts. The latter were also shown in asymmetric kilt-inspired versions, as well in polished midi options, including a linen and silk style featuring the FF logo pattern in a fresh combination of aqua green and white. The look was finished with a matching bomber, an iconic item in a quintessential Fendi wardrobe, which also requires a touch of fur. To wit, the luxurious offering of fur pieces was centered on featherweight styles, spanning from a reversible fox fur vest embellished with a delicate eyelet collar to a shaved mink coat with floral appliqués in sorbet tones.
The hyper-elegant attitude of the ready-to-wear collection echoed in the accessories range. While the metallic cowboy boots introduced and eccentric touch, the bag styles were mainly presented in essential, quite minimal options, such as a Peekaboo X-Lite in

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Gucci Cruise 2019

ARLES, France — If cruise shows are all about transporting the audience, Alessandro Michele deserves the award for the most dazzling spectacle to date in a season thick with powerful imagery.
The Gucci creative director chose the Alyscamps, a Roman necropolis in the southern French city of Arles, as the setting for his show, and took full advantage of the area’s epic history with a nighttime display that transcended space and time with a trove of references ancient and modern.
Clouds of smoke and rows of church candles bathed the open-air space in a Gothic ambience, enhanced by the haunting soundtrack of Claudio Monteverdi’s “Vespers for the Blessed Virgin.”
As night fell and guests including Saoirse Ronan, A$ AP Rocky, Salma Hayek and Christian Lacroix took their places on mirrored cubes, a line of fire ignited down the central alleyway, signaling the start of the show.
The models swept out thick and fast in outfits so intricate, the eye struggled to keep pace. Michele sent out a dizzying 114 looks for women and men, mixing brand signatures — think plaid skirts, floral silk prints and tiger patterns — with outfits designed for fantasy characters ranging from rock stars to 19th-century widows.
Shrouded in velvet dresses and richly

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HP CFO Cathie Lesjak to Retire in Early 2019

Cathie Lesjak, a Hewlett-Packard veteran who as chief financial officer helped steer the company through one of the largest corporate breakups, plans to retire from HP in early 2019.
WSJ.com: WSJD

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Sachin & Babi Resort 2019

Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia have homed in on what works for their special occasion brand. They succeed in easy, unfettered elegance. It took a while to figure out, but they’ve recently been focused on reissuing classic styles in different fabrics and colors, while slowly broadening their silhouette library as not to alienate existing customers.
Resort was an homage to embroidery both subtle and glam. There were sequins galore, on styles spanning jumpsuits and shortened ballgowns that could be paired with wide-leg pants to less formal options like shirtdresses and tracksuits that transition from day to night. The poplin-sequin-mixed shirtdress was one of the more playfully unconventional items, along with a great silver column style featuring a thigh-high slit that opened to reveal built-in shorts.
Less flashy were sleek, spaghetti-strap column gowns that took days to hand-embellish. A red version, for instance, took three seamstresses across three full days to micro-bead before cutting. Sans embroidery, the style has been a bestseller online, so the designers knew there was demand. The same subtle beadwork could be seen on a yellow minidress, youthful as is and made formal and empowering with dramatic detachable bow.
In general, the collection was age-inclusive, speaking to the brand’s aesthetic goal.

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Louis Vuitton Cruise 2019

SAINT-PAUL-DE-VENCE, France — Accustomed to showing his Louis Vuitton collections in the majestic surroundings of the Louvre museum, Nicolas Ghesquière opted for an equally exceptional, but altogether more confidential, art destination for his cruise display on Monday.
Guests including Emma Stone, Jennifer Connelly, Léa Seydoux, Justin Theroux and Ruth Negga trekked up to the southern French hilltop village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence for the show, held at the Fondation Maeght, a private art foundation whose gardens are filled with works by the likes of Alberto Giacometti and Marc Chagall.
Those arriving from the Dior cruise show in Paris appeared to have brought the unseasonal weather with them. Mist shrouded the treetops, giving the venue a melancholic feel enhanced by the haunting live soundtrack that greeted guests at the pre-show cocktail.
Milling about in the Giacometti Courtyard, Grace Coddington sported silk pajamas blending the LV monogram with her signature drawings of cats. It turned out the fashion editor has created a capsule collection of accessories with Ghesquière that is set to hit stores in October.
“We’re very close friends and I love everything he does, so he asked me to work with him, and it was more than a pleasure,” she said. Coddington, who published the original

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Front Row at Louis Vuitton Cruise 2019

ART ATTACK: Louis Vuitton convened a gallery of A-list faces for its cruise show on Monday, held at the Fondation Maeght in the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence near Nice.
Sienna Miller, Laura Harrier, Léa Seydoux, Sophie Turner and Isabelle Huppert were among those taking in Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest designs in the stunning hilltop setting.
Emma Stone was reunited with Justin Theroux, her co-star in the upcoming Netflix series “Maniac,” though she seemed keen to quash any rumors of romance. “He’s like my brother. It’s really fun,” she said of hanging out together off-set.
The “La La Land” star took advantage of her visit to France to see Vuitton’s Les Fontaines Parfumées perfume workshop site in neighboring Grasse, where house perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud plies his trade.
“It was incredible. I mean, I feel like I learned so much in such a short period of time, which was amazing,” Stone reported, hinting that a new Vuitton perfume campaign may be in the works.
“I’m working with Louis Vuitton for fragrance as well,” said the actress, who recently appeared in her first Vuitton advertisements. She added that rose — a key ingredient in the brand’s Rose des Vents perfume — is one of her favorite scents.
Though Theroux was

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Etro Resort 2019

Veronica Etro opened the doors of a secret garden for resort.
A dreamy, feminine and charming atmosphere was injected into her sophisticated lineup where the discreet elegance of uncomplicated silhouettes was peppered with a kaleidoscopic range of multicolor prints.
Botanical motifs and new versions of the house’s signature paisley patterns, which were updated with intricate floral graphics, gave a joyful attitude to relaxed pants with striped tops, easy-chic frocks with delicate ribbon details, maxidresses injected with a boho mood, as well as fluid Kimono-inspired silk robe coats.
Introducing a more rational, geometric feel, colorblock patterns appeared on a languid one-shoulder tunic paired with wide-leg trousers, while a sweet, whimsical touch was added via a motif mixing stars and a stylized dancing couple — the protagonists of a modern fairy tale.

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Fabiana Filippi Resort 2019

Luxurious materials and shimmering effects are balanced by a sense of relaxed sophistication in the Fabiana Filippi resort collection, the first pre-collection introduced by the brand.
Cashmere and shearling, but also soft nylons, are laminated to inject a sparkling feel into the lineup, which this season included a range of outfits fitting the varied needs of contemporary women.
Lightweight double-faced coats are worn with unfussy wrap skirts, while chic pajama-inspired sets and elevated tracksuits are rooted in a practical, urban aesthetic.
A feminine feel is injected into the maxi frocks, crafted from both draped tulle and plissé silk, while an organza jacket combines a see-through look with a tailored cut.

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Front Row at Dior Cruise 2019

SPIRITED ELEMENTS: The rain hadn’t really begun in earnest when guests trickled in through a cobblestone alley to take their seats lining the white sandy ring for the Dior Cruise show.
“Maybe we can find an umbrella somewhere,” Billie Lourd laughed as she hunted for her seat. The actress is gearing up for her eighth season of “American Horror Story” and working on a movie called “Book Smart,” directed by Olivia Wild.
“She’s a goddess! I’m so excited,” Lourd said with a grin. Surveying the arena on the grounds of Chantilly’s historic stables she professed her love of horses but said she’s allergic to them.
“I’m allergic and it’s the saddest thing ever, but honestly, I’ll still go on them because they’re so beautiful,” she added wistfully.
“I used to keep my horse in a much smaller affair,” noted Alexa Chung as she entered the eighteenth century edifice, built by the Prince of Condé who expected to be reincarnated as a horse.
Florence Pugh, who plays a wrestler in the upcoming film “Fighting With My Family” glided through the hubbub, as the raindrops thickened, her hair pulled up and elegantly woven in the back.
“I grew up on horses. I used to live in Spain where I

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Emilio Pucci Resort 2019

The joyful, flamboyant mood of a tropical summer: For the resort season, Emilio Pucci’s design team embraced a happy, colorful aesthetic that injected an energetic vibe into the brand’s lineup.
A kaleidoscope of new prints, featuring a more graphic look compared to archival motifs, was juxtaposed with eye-catching solids, such as sunflower yellow, hot pink and strawberry red. There was something sensual about the fitted dresses and the mini skirts embellished with embroideries and trimmed with raffia fringes.
Breezy caftans were decorated with prints at the cuffs, while silk inserts gave a luxurious touch to cropped, wide-leg jeans. If a foldable maxi K-way showed the most sporty and practical face of the brand, evening dresses featuring all-over embroideries were designed for jet-setters.

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Dior Cruise 2019: Preview

Maria Grazia Chiuri may have curbed her wandering instincts for this year’s Christian Dior cruise show, but her inspiration travels across continents.
Chances were strong that her collection, to be unveiled on Friday night in the Great Stables of the Domaine de Chantilly, would weave in an equestrian theme, but the designer is sure to surprise with outfits inspired by the female riders, called escaramuzas, that compete in Mexico’s version of rodeo.
With their embellished sombreros and embroidered cotton dresses, which flare out into tiered skirts layered with petticoats, the riders cut dashing figures as they perform stunts at full gallop, all the while riding sidesaddle.
The fearlessness of the sport taps right into Chiuri’s love for strong women, a running thread in all her collections since she took over as creative director for women’s wear in 2016, marking her debut show with “We should all be feminists” T-shirts.
“The reason I like the escaramuzas is because they do something that is so macho — rodeo — in our vision, but they decided to do that in their traditional dresses which are so pretty, so feminine,” she said during a fitting at Dior’s ready-to-wear workshop in Paris.
Chiuri, who has visited Mexico several times, returned

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Jil Sander Resort 2019

Purity, elegance, strength and quintessential beauty.
A brand with a strong heritage and a very specific identity, Jil Sander over the last few years has struggled to find its own way to refresh its image for contemporary customers and consequentially return to the relevance of its heyday.
In a fashion scenario dominated by a new maximalism and by untamed street wave, discreet sophistication, rationalism and a less-is-more approach might be considered out of fashion. But, actually, will good taste ever go out of fashion?
No, according to Lucie and Luke Meier, who delivered another convincing collection for the Jil Sander brand. With their quiet, soft-spoken approach, they are actually succeeding in developing a new contemporary language, which speaks of Jil Sander but through codes in sync with the current times.
The designers showcased a realistic wardrobe, filled with urban, highly wearable options, yet peppered with a fascinating twist. Their constant research for an approach projected into the future yet anchored by a personal and sensitive attitude resulted in the delicacy of the mattress-inspired quilted fabrics, the tablecloth-like Vichy patterns and the stretch seersuckers developed in a sorbet palette of light blue and yellow.
The silhouettes spanned from more constructed designs, such as impeccable coats with hourglass lines, to sharp-cut shirtdresses in crisp

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Oscar de la Renta Resort 2019

Describing a fashion show as very “mother-of-the-bride” is not always a compliment. Yet it was accurate and deliberate in the case of Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim’s resort collection for Oscar de la Renta. If there was ever a time to go in that direction, this was it.
Garcia and Kim were already looking at a Wedgwood book by Rizzoli as a key reference for the lineup in February when “we got Meghan [Markle’s] phone call to help dress her mom for the royal wedding,” Garcia said after Tuesday’s show, referring to the ODLR ensemble Doria Ragland wore to her daughter’s, the Duchess of Sussex, nuptials last weekend. He noted that the request to dress the most watched mother-of-the-bride in recent memory and the bridal registry china inspiration were a happy coincidence, so the designers went with it.
The English pottery brand’s heritage informed many of the collection’s colors and patterns. Everything in the lineup would be appropriate for an event on a wedding weekend itinerary — the rehearsal dinner, reception, bridesmaids’ dresses, morning after brunch. The show opened with a series of ivory and pastel stretch wool dresses that were minimal in shape with hemlines cut like architectural petals. There were

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Zac Posen Resort 2019

A maestro of red-carpet drama, Zac Posen has a practical side, too. He referred to his approach to his resort collection as “the merchandising matrix” during a preview of the collection last week. “You’re going against what’s selling, what you need to expand. We build with all our retailers and customers door by door.” In terms of what’s selling and what’s expanding now: cropped suiting and shirting. He developed the former in a neat black cropped jacket with a white tie neck over a slim black shift dress. The latter came as white cotton blouses with statement cuffs and more fluid satin draped blouses that paired with languid tuxedo/pajama pants. The collection was framed in a strong “direct” palette of black, red, magenta, cobalt blue and pale pink with silhouettes crafted with an Eighties lens, which Posen handled with grace and subtlety. There were no “Dynasty” shoulders, more like gentle draping on killer, curve-hugging silhouettes that Posen knows will sell.

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Escada Resort 2019

Niall Sloan’s second collection as global design director ran the gamut of approachable day-to-evening fare. Where his fall debut channeled the eccentricity of Escada’s archive with an Eighties bent, here Sloan incorporated the season’s inspiration with whimsical flare.
He looked to the night sky — perhaps inspired by the clarity of his newfound home (the designer splits his time between London and Munich, where Escada is based) — in ways ranging literal (a billowing cloud print on a sharp-shouldered dress; a recurring star motif), to abstract (the use of Lurex and velvet to reference starlight).
Sloan has been focused on broadening the brand’s definition of cocktail while leveling a casual thread. The strongest pieces managed to balance flash with restraint, like the shimmery metallic gowns that shaped the body loosely, or a billowy dress with shooting star print. In two seasons, he’s demonstrated a playfulness not commonly associated with the boardroom-oriented Escada woman.
His playful hand extended namely into daywear. Shots of pink and green livened separates while a brushstroke floral print created through a collaboration with artist Laura Gulshani, who Sloan found on Instagram, provided a sense of youth. The most festive elements came in the form of beading that served as mismatched buttons

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Givenchy Resort 2019

Men’s tailoring has always been the bedrock of Clare Waight Keller’s coed vision for Givenchy. In her debut last fall, she said her focus on sharp shoulders was directly derived from the work of founder Hubert de Givenchy.
For her first resort collection since taking over the creative direction of the label, the designer also delved into a lesser-known part of Givenchy’s heritage: a sportswear line that fed into a selection of looks infused with athletic ease.
“He actually did a sports line at the beginning of the Eighties — Givenchy Sport — and it was kind of interesting, because there, he really used a lot of the graphic designs and these sort of V-shapes,” she explained. “I thought it was interesting to mix that back into the more sophisticated tailoring part.”
Men’s logo track pants, or second-skin tops in technical fabrics, were overt nods to the athleisure trend that has swept through to high-end brands. It translated more subtly in the women’s looks, which included roomy separates in paper-thin glossy leather, done in subtle hues like forest green and Prussian blue.
The Eighties influence was overt with items like cowl-neck tops with batwing sleeves, or a burgundy jersey zip-up jacket with a black

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Inside Nashville’s bid to land 2019 draft: Make it a party

The NFL wants draft weekend to take on the personality of the host city, and Nashville can’t wait to show off its honky-tonks, sports bars and more.
www.espn.com – NFL

Just Cavalli Resort 2019

Florence served as a major inspiration for the Just Cavalli resort collection, the first designed by creative director Paul Surridge since his arrival at the company last year.
A view of the landscape of the Tuscan city, which is the fashion house’s hometown, as well as the iconic image of the marble statue of David by Michelangelo in Piazza della Signoria, pop up in the young and fun collection.
Rooted in an urban, contemporary mood, the versatile lineup offers a range of easy-to-wear pieces, spanning from multicolored jacquard sweaters, slipdresses layered over lace blouses, as well as a Barbie-like outfit, combining a miniskirt with a denim-inspired jacket, both crafted from baby pink leather.
The brand’s signature wild animal motifs are reworked through a graphic lens and mixed and matched on maxi frocks, while an ironic feel runs trough a lacquered yellow bomber worn with coordinated pants printed in a crocodile pattern.
Staying away from certain rock ’n’ roll and sexy clichés of the brand’s previous collection, Surridge managed to deliver an unfussy and unpretentious lineup of wearable yet eye-catching pieces for the real girls of 2019.

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Tomas Maier Resort 2019

No one is immune to influence. That’s why designers have mood boards. Tomas Maier’s brand is anchored in comfortable, everyday sportswear with a fashion attitude. What are the biggest things happening in comfortable, casual sportswear? Puffer jackets, tracksuits, windbreakers, logomania and, of course, the Eighties. Maier had it all in his women’s and men’s resort collection, handling pieces that are widely available elsewhere with his smart, thoughtful hand.
“It’s a little influenced by the early Eighties music scene, early hip-hop,” said Maier during a preview. Track jackets were reversible and pants, cut wide and slouchy, were done in washed flannel and felted wool jersey to give the dressed-down look a polished finish. Oversize cashmere sweaters and fitted knits in sporty graphic compositions were chicly athletic, likewise the down puffers and shearling and nylon jackets. Maier’s signature palm-tree motif was done in an Eighties Los Angeles way, the long, skinny palms printed against pink sunset skies. Adopting his branding to the seasonal theme that way made sense, though the same could not be said for cartoony graphic cassette-tape motifs, which felt too juvenile for Maier’s clientele.
Logos are everywhere, so it was less surprising to see “Maier” stamped boldly on shoes than it

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Prada Resort 2019

After a fashion show, a critic typically rushes from the venue back to office, home, hotel, wherever, and writes as carefully considered a review as deadline — usually right now — permits.  
Following Miuccia Prada’s cruise show last night, I ignored that deep-rooted conditioning to actually enjoy, rather than fret through, the post-show fete (Tonne Goodman — a delightful dinner companion), and went home to bed after what I thought was quite a strong show. A night’s sleep and some morning rumination told me I was wrong. Prada’s show wasn’t merely strong. It was brilliant.
Not deep-thoughts, esoteric brilliant, but aggressively commercial, resort-long-selling-season-give-me-a-smart-coat-and-pants brilliant. “It’s like a fantasy and the reality,” Prada said, describing her motif du jour. “Of course, [a show is] always a fantasy. It’s my fantasy on what today for me is real.” 
A longtime holdout from the cruise extravaganza, Prada acknowledged that market realities ultimately forced her hand. “Everybody is doing more, and so you have to adapt, more or less,” she said.
So after years of sprinkling women’s cruise looks into her June men’s show, last year she staged a full resort show in Milan. This time she opted for another of her brand’s “homes,” its Herzog &

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Chanel Cruise 2019

PARIS — What better way to showcase cruise than on a cruise?
That, at least, was the thinking at Chanel this season, but the plan ran into a snag: the house could not secure a ship fit to host its floating show. So instead, creative director Karl Lagerfeld brought the boat to dry land, constructing a 330-foot-long ocean liner in the middle of the Grand Palais.
Named La Pausa, after the villa in the South of France built by founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in the Thirties, the replica ship was the spectacular backdrop for Chanel’s cruise collection on Thursday night, which drew guests including Margot Robbie, Kristen Stewart and Lily-Rose Depp.
But it was another appearance that set tongues wagging: Lagerfeld took his bow with his longtime fashion studio director Virginie Viard, in a move sure to fan rumors about his potential retirement — though a spokeswoman for Chanel said he had done it before, and there was no special significance to the gesture.
By now, the designer’s outsize imagination should come as no surprise to any regular guests at his Chanel shows, which in recent seasons have featured a space rocket, a waterfall and a reproduction of the Eiffel Tower. But this was

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House Speaker Paul Ryan Announces He Will Retire in 2019 to ‘Devote More of His Time’ to Family

House Speaker Paul Ryan on Wednesday told his House Republican colleagues that he is retiring and will not seek re-election in November.

Ryan’s counselor Brendan Buck announced the news in a statement on Wednesday, saying: “This morning Speaker Ryan shared with his colleagues that this will be his last year as a member of the House. He will serve out his full term, run through the tape, and then retire in January.”

“After nearly twenty years in the House, the speaker is proud of all that has been accomplished and is ready to devote more of his time to being a husband and a father,” the statement continued. “While he did not seek the position, he told his colleagues that serving as speaker has been the professional honor of his life, and he thanked them for the trust they placed in him. He will discuss his decision at a press conference immediately following the member meeting.”

Ryan, a Wisconsin Republican, has been a member of Congress since 1999 and became House speaker in 2015 after running to replace then-Speaker John Boehner.

President Donald Trump reacted to the news on Twitter, tweeting that Ryan is “a truly good man” who will “leave a legacy of achievement that nobody can question.”

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Rep. Darrell Issa of California told CNN that Ryan told House members he wants to be more than a “Sunday dad” to his children, sons Samuel and Charles and daughter Elizabeth.

According to CNN, sources familiar with the situation said Ryan also noted that he was planning to retire after this Congress and “didn’t think it was fair to his district or the GOP conference to run for re-election only to leave right after.”


PEOPLE.com

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Dior to Stage Cruise 2019 Show in Chantilly Stables

SADDLE UP: Dior is staging its cruise 2019 show closer to home than the last edition, which took place in the Santa Monica Mountains. Scheduled for May 25, the event will take place at the Grandes Écuries of the Domaine de Chantilly, near Paris.
A symbol of French prestige and art de vivre, the historic stables — which are the largest in Europe — were constructed in the 18th century for the seventh Prince de Condé, Louis-Henri de Bourbon.
The city of Chantilly has long-standing ties with Dior, from the founding couturier’s first creations to those of his successors, Yves Saint Laurent and Marc Bohan. Various designs for the house over the years have carried or evoked its name and prestige, starting with Christian Dior’s second collection, for fall 1947, which featured an evening dress baptized at Chantilly.
While Dior journeyed to the sweeping Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve in Calabasas, Calif., for the staging of its Cruise 2018 show — marking the first big destination event for artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri — the setting of the house’s next display promises to be more about time travel. And possibly an equestrian theme.

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New Seasons of Italian Mob Series ‘Gomorrah,’ ‘Suburra’ To Hit Global Screens in 2019

ROME — New seasons of Italy’s high-profile mob shows, Sky’s “Gomorrah” and Netflix and Rai’s “Suburra: Blood on Rome,” are now set to hit global TV and streaming screens in 2019. Sky announced today that the 12-episode fourth season of “Gomorrah,” which is produced by Italy’s Cattleya and Fandango in partnership with Germany’s Beta Film, will […]

Variety

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Max Mara to Hold Cruise 2019 Runway Show

HOMETOWN CRUISE: Max Mara will for the first time hold its cruise 2019 show in Reggio Emilia, Italy, where the company is based. The show is scheduled on June 4.
Max Mara has previously presented its pre-collections in New York, for pre-fall 2015; London, for resort 2016, and Shanghai, for pre-fall 2017.
As reported, Miuccia Prada will show her cruise 2019 collection in New York on May 4, but is keeping details about the location under wraps. Alessandro Michele at Gucci will be traveling to Arles for his next cruise show, to be held in Arles on May 30, while Nicolas Ghesquière has chosen a holiday destination for Louis Vuitton’s next cruise show: the French Riviera. Vuitton has set May 28 as the date for its next itinerant fashion spectacle, but the exact location will be revealed at a later date.

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NFL Insiders predict free agency: Will Le’Veon Bell be a Steeler in 2019?

The running back could be on his way out in Pittsburgh — but maybe not this season. Can the Steelers work out a long-term deal? Our NFL Insiders weigh in on the biggest topics of the offseason.
www.espn.com – NFL

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Tony Gonzalez, Champ Bailey and Ed Reed eligible for HOF in 2019

The 2018 class saw five players early in their eligibility get into the Hall, and with lots of talent in the pipeline, things could get competitive.
www.espn.com – NFL

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Gucci to Show Cruise 2019 Collection at Arles’ Roman Necropolis

CULTURAL CRUISE: Gucci is showing its cruise 2019 collection in Arles, France, in May.
The luxury company said on Monday that it will hold a runway show on May 30 at the Alyscamps Roman necropolis, which was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981.
The Gucci show will be the first big event to be hosted at Alyscamps, which is located a short distance from the town of Arles, in the heart of France’s Provence region.
Gucci has previously presented its cruise collections, designed by creative director Alessandro Michele, in other culturally significant locations, including New York City’s DIA Art Foundation, Westminster Abbey’s cloisters in London and Palazzo Pitti’s Palatina Gallery in Florence.

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Big Little Lies Season 2 Won’t Premiere on HBO Until 2019

Big Little LiesYour trip back to Monterey is going to have to wait just a bit, Big Little Lies fans.
Now that HBO has officially renewed the hit limited series for a surprise second season, programming…

E! Online (US) – TV News

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Volvo ditching all-petrol cars from 2019

Volvo is to become the first mainstream car manufacturer to produce only electric or hybrid vehicles.
Tech News – Latest Technology and Gadget News | Sky News

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Driverless cars trial set for UK motorways in 2019

The project will include a journey between London and Oxford in 2019.
BBC News – Technology

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