Uber Posts Slower Sales Gains, Widening Loss Ahead of 2019 IPO

Results for the three months ending in September show that Uber is still growing quickly but is likely to be unprofitable for some time.
WSJ.com: WSJD

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Alexander McQueen Resort 2019

A Victorian seaside breeze blew through this collection, which was filled with contrasting elements: hard and soft, chunky and delicate, tailored and fluid. Among Sarah Burton’s inspirations was the British paleontologist Mary Anning, the British shoreline and the era’s obsession for collecting and categorizing bits of nature. There was broderie anglaise everywhere, worked into long white dresses, tunic tops or short ruffle skirts. All that demureness was balanced by leather corset belts, harness tops or thick cashmere sweaters. Other dresses came as sheer lacy knits as delicate as lingerie, with ruffles, bell sleeves or breezy tiers on the skirts. Tailoring had a whiff of Victoriana, too, as in a shell print suit layered over a sheer lacy blouse. A long military coat with a slashed waist had an abstract Union Jack pattern and resembled something that might have washed ashore in a shipwreck.

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Roland Mouret Resort 2019

Roland Mouret is eager for his woman to kick back, relax – or run around – with these fluid, draped clothes, which are meant for all-day or all-night wear.
Mouret described these pieces as “a best companion, a best friend” and said he wants his women to exhale into them. The collection was colorful and meant for movement, with sporty touches such as knits and sleeveless jackets with flashes of perforated fabric and a stretchy lining for a silver sequin gown, with a slit up the front. “You can run in it, move around and dance in it. You can live with this dress,” said the designer.
He worked bouclé stretch into a tailored suit and a fitted skirt and offered up a softly-structured, single–breasted trench with a belted waist. Other athletic touches came in the form of a ribbed knit tank dress and a languid jumpsuit with a stretchy waist, and loose tabard knits in bright colors. Things got even more comfortable with pajama–like tops and jackets that were draped at the back, and long tunic dresses with detachable skirts.

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Spice Girls announce six-date reunion tour for 2019

The Spice Girls have announced a six-date tour of UK stadiums next year – but will be without Posh Spice Victoria Beckham.
Entertainment News – Latest Celebrity & Showbiz News | Sky News

ENTERTAINMENT SPECIALS:

Neglect Adult Patients RTW Spring 2019

Name: Neglect Adult Patients
Main message: Designer Junnosuke Watanabe has a diverse background, having studied political science and economics at Waseda University and performed as a member of a Japanese music group. For his first runway show, he played on his unusual brand name and turned out a hospital-themed collection, even sending out models in mint green gowns and scrub suits. There were also T-shirts and sweatshirts with slogans such as “Touch me, I’m heavy sick” and “Medical play.” He filled out the offering with a series of shorts and jackets in red plaid, leopard print and ath-leisure fabrics.
The result: Despite some odd English phrases, the clothes were pedestrian and showed Watanabe’s inexperience, although he’ll likely find customers among his fans. But it’s not clear that he needed a runway show to do it.

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Mitsuru Okazaki RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Yohji Yamamoto alum Mitsuru Okazaki’s brand is only in its second season, but it is already establishing itself as one to watch during Tokyo Fashion Week. The designer is adept at creating unexpected shapes out of simple textiles, such as the denim skirts topped with petal-like layers or the white pants covered in pyramid-shaped puckers that he sent down his spring runway. He also did interesting things with concealed zippers, placing them on balloon sleeves and pant legs so that when zipped open they looked like multiple slits, sometimes in contrasting colors. Diagonal stripes and colorblocking gave movement to otherwise simple tapered trousers and button-down shirts.
The result: The collection was both cohesive and inventive, as well as casual and real-world friendly, making it a strong second effort. And unlike many designers who show in Tokyo, Okazaki demonstrated his ability to self-edit.

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Malamute RTW Spring 2019

Name: Malamute
Main message: Former knit designer Mari Odaka drew from her roots while also demonstrating her range with her spring collection, the first one she’s shown on Tokyo’s runways. The knits were many and varied, from oversize, mixed-texture sweaters to open knit dresses and crop tops with openings at the elbows. But she combined these with silky and velour blouses, sheer mesh pants, and loose-fitting denim for a contrast of textures. The lines were clean and the colors classic shades of navy, beige, white and red, while bits of fringe and lace created focal points.
The result: Odaka delivered a strong offering with a clear point of view and unique sensibility, proving she deserves a spot on Tokyo’s regular fashion week calendar.

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Mintdesigns RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mintdesigns
Main message: Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katsui gave their garden party-evoking collection a Space Age edge with tinsel wigs, Mylar visors and headscarves, and simple black cubes on their stark white runway. They showed loose, ankle-length dresses and skirts in sheer mesh or botanical prints, paired with fringed knits, wide herringbone striped tunics and linen suits. A few all-black looks, some with dark leopard-print pants or metallic accents, kept it from feeling too sweet or predictable.
The result: The easy shapes and soft textiles would be right at home at any picnic, but unexpected accents kept it feeling fresh, modern and urban.

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Ksenia Schnaider RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ksenia Schnaider
Main message: Ksenia Schnaider’s Ukrainian resort-themed collection was a breath of fresh air during a largely subdued Tokyo Fashion Week. Its kitschy vibe and beachy influences translated into a fun collection of urban cool-girl clothes. The designer said she was inspired by the makeup and high heel-wearing beachgoers from her home country. She sent out sequin-encrusted T-shirt dresses, Hawaiian sunset-print shirts, and denim with unfinished edges and plenty of cargo pockets. A standout fur-like frayed denim jacket closed the show.
The result: With high energy, a clear theme and a fresh feeling, the collection was one of the most promising of the first half of the week, and showed that the designer doesn’t take herself too seriously.

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Christopher Kane Resort 2019

The designer took Tokyo’s dark side as his theme for this racy collection of neon sign colors, and textures and silhouettes that nodded to the city’s myriad sex clubs. The rubberized red lace dress and matching coat encapsulated the dark and slightly sinister mood of the collection, which was shot at night by Laurence Ellis.
Lacy lingerie dresses with barely there, rounded skirts had a Goth feel, as did a see-through black dress layered over a bright purple bra. There were some razor-sharp edges, too, in the form of pointed, jutting lapels on a black, rhinestone-edged satin coat and sporty tailored jacket. Softness came in the form of a two-tone hoodie with “More Baby More” written in iridescent letters across the front and a long and billowy white shirt proclaiming that universal truth: “Sh** Happens.”
During a walk-through, Kane said Tokyo has always offered “endless inspiration for me,” adding that his love of subversion is “never at the expense of the clothes. I want to empower women when they put on my work.”

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David Poltrack, Dean of TV Research Chiefs and 50-Year CBS Veteran, to Retire in 2019 (EXCLUSIVE)

Dr. Poltrack had some interesting news for a group of CBS executives trying to sort out the network’s primetime schedule in 1992. The patient wasn’t sick at all. Before “Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman” launched on CBS in 1993, few of the network’s executives fought to get the show on the air. No one thought viewers […]

Variety

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Hare RTW Spring 2019

Name: Hare
Main message: A stark white runway got pops of bright greens, yellows and blues as Hare’s models walked in sporty mesh dresses, straight-leg pants, ankle-length skirts and bomber jackets. The silhouettes were familiar but the brand, designed by a team, has a large digital following, proving its commercial appeal. A head-to-toe shibori tie-dye look on denim and chambray, and a satin jumpsuit in a marbled paint print stood out, while details such as fanny packs and large cargo pockets hinted at a Nineties theme.
The result: While the pieces themselves were not particularly exciting, the styling and accessories helped to elevate them slightly, and the bright colors contrasting with black and white felt fresh.

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Jenny Fax RTW Spring 2019

Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: “An ordinary girl from a small town is going to buy a flower print dress for her date. That is so romantically sad,” said Shueh Jen-Fang’s show notes. Prone to taking inspiration from childhood themes and experiences, the designer made this collection a grown-up storybook tale. Spanning clown-like jumpsuits with exaggerated shoulders to sweet floral or pastel dresses with huge pockets, it permeated humor. But there were also plenty of less innocent details, like dresses, skirts and long fringed shorts worn with buttons and zippers undone to show the navel, or satin thong underwear attached to the outside of frocks and extending all the way up to the shoulders. Tiny cropped jackets, an oversize, stonewashed denim double-breasted blazer, and mismatched sleeves played with proportion.
The result: As the last show of Tokyo’s spring fashion week, it did not disappoint, cleverly mixing together unique yet wearable pieces with more theatrical, conceptual ones.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2019

Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.

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Figue RTW Spring 2019

Stephanie von Watzdorf was awash in the afterglow of the Meghan Markle effect when presenting her spring Figue collection. The Duchess of Sussex wore a floral dress from the collection for her first speech on the royal tour in Fiji earlier this week. “She’s in Fiji, which is one of my dream destinations, and she’s talking about women’s empowerment and education, which is so on my radar, aside from animals and outfits,” said von Watzdorf, adding that Markle’s effect on sales is real.
As for the spring collection, von Watzdorf titled it Nomad Love. She culled decorative elements — stripes, beading, florals, embroidery — from nomadic tribes the world over and coalesced them into pajama tops and bottoms, silk and cotton caftans, peasant tops and robes that fit the bill for pretty, bohemian style whether you’re wandering the globe or going about your everyday life and want something that telegraphs “summer.” What felt newest were airy, voluminous cotton dresses in polka dots, a quilted ikat robe and a great pearl and evil eye jewelry collaboration with Beck Jewels.

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2019

Two-and-a-half years after Tory Burch launched Tory Sport, the brand’s performance results are coming in. “It’s interesting to start to see what the business is coming to,” Burch said last week during a preview of the spring collection. “We’re starting to see what makes sense, less is more, and what is working for us.” The collection is not just cute, colorful and branded, although it is definitively all of those things — it’s also become a viable player in terms of performance wear. Yoga and running, particularly the seamless pieces, are doing well, as is golf.
For spring, Burch amped up the color with the Bauhaus principles of form and function in mind, working in fuchsia, red, green, blue and white in graphic stripes and lots of chevron. The clothes she wore to play sports in high school in the Seventies were on her mind, so chevron track jackets and silky soccer jerseys were updated in lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics as opposed to the pure polyester the vintage styles came in. Weatherproof outerwear stood out, as did a few fabulous chunky hand knit cotton sweaters that fell into Tory Sport’s “coming and going” category. There was a new tennis skort and

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The 10 Most Intriguing Travel Destinations for 2019

Here, our top destinations worth zeroing in on in 2019, from an Argentinian wine region to—wait for it—Missouri
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Rabd Men’s Spring 2019

Name: Rabd
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.

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NBA execs already focused on 2019 free agency

NBA GMs are paid to think ahead, but why are so many of them laser-focused on the summer of 2019 already?
www.espn.com – NBA

Memuse RTW Spring 2019

Name: Memuse
Main message: Risa Aizawa evoked a child’s dress-up party with her latest show, seating a group of models in nude undergarments, neutral colored heels and blonde bob wigs on the floor in the center of her runway. Around them walked more models, who wore her fairytale-esque designs. With sweet, girly looks such as tulle or lace dresses covered in bows, frills and ruffles shown alongside more casual, real-world pieces including see-through raincoats and an oversize, gathered T-shirt dress printed with a cartoon character with eyes in her hair, it was like a modern-day “Alice in Wonderland.” Aizawa’s pastel palette and opulent textures, which included velour and jacquard, were contrasted by an out-of-place ankle-length, frilled frock in bright magenta, yellow, orange, blue and green.
The result: Considering her background working in a “maid café” and as a Japanese pop star, it’s not surprising that Aizawa’s design sensibility draws heavily from Tokyo subculture. And while the collection is unlikely to garner a widespread following, it’s sure to appeal to her fans and target audience.

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Shohei RTW Spring 2019

Name: Shohei
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek lived in Japan for two years, designing for a Japanese company. Not only did she meet her Japanese husband during this time, but the experience also shaped her design sensibility. She focuses on unique materials, including both sustainable fabrics and innovative performance textiles “in order to create fashion with a dynamic attitude.” In her debut Tokyo show, she used tech fabrics to craft color-blocked parkas, shorts and tube tops in navy, black, beige and orange. While Pek designs for both genders, the men’s offerings mimicked the designs for women, including jackets with zip-off sleeves and pants that unzipped to create shorts. Asymmetrical cutting and folding techniques added an edge to athleisure-style tube tops and dresses with drawstring details, while shirting fabrics were layered with jersey and other textiles to create deconstructed blouses.
The result: Pek’s European interpretation of Japanese style was an interesting addition to Tokyo Fashion Week, and demonstrated that the designer has potential to succeed both at home and abroad.

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Lautashi RTW Spring 2019

Name: Lautashi
Main message: Model Emi Suzuki launched her brand last year, and quickly gained a following on social media. This season was the first time she participated in Tokyo Fashion Week, thanks to support from Amazon through its At Tokyo program. Rather than a traditional runway show, she chose to do a presentation in collaboration with a new media artist, saying that she wanted attendees to be able to see the detail in her clothes more clearly. Inspired by the night sky, she used zodiac, swirly galaxy and aurora borealis prints, as well as solids in both deep tones and soft, shimmering shades. She chose classic shapes like pencil skirts, wide-leg trousers, camisoles and belted jackets.
The result: The collection had obvious commercial appeal, but Suzuki didn’t take any risks with it and there was a sense that it was missing a certain polish.

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Wewill RTW Spring 2019

Name: Wewill
Main message: Hidetaka Fukuzono blurred gender lines with his spring offering, showing blouse-like tunics, satin pants and loose-fitting jackets in soft white, ivory, olive, khaki and gray. His textiles were also soft and consisted largely of natural materials. But linen suits and jackets with oversize pockets lent a throw-back, safari vibe.
The result: The collection didn’t offer anything new and the styling was uninventive, but the clothes were high quality and utilized some beautiful fabrics.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2019

For the past few seasons, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara have been reinterpreting classic military pieces, and this spring, they drew inspiration from Thirties and Forties coats and pants from American, British and French armed forces. Their show was held in a warehouse near Tokyo Bay, and the simple raw concrete backdrop allowed the clothes to take center stage.
The designers put their own modern take on salvage parkas, chambray shirts, field jackets and pants, flight jackets, motorcycle pants and more. They mixed these with pleated chiffon skirts, sheer mesh dresses, ankle-length knit smocks, denim jackets and cotton dresses. They also showed the third season of their collaboration with The North Face, which included aggressively cropped pullovers, long rain coats, leggings, sweatshirts and T-shirts. While most of the palette centered around neutral shades of khaki, olive, navy, gray, white and black, a few calf-length dresses in red or blue and white stripes provided contrast and added a subtle nod to the nautical.
While the military influences were clear, the collection was still modern and urban, with well-cut silhouettes and quality fabrics, creating the ideal wardrobe for an urban nomad’s commute. And thanks to the pieces by The North Face, it’s also suitable for

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St. John RTW Spring 2019

St. John presented a more streamlined and sleek collection during an intimate cocktail presentation in place of a showroom appointment for spring 2019. The brand felt even more elevated with mostly mannequins dressed in neutrals at the forefront of the floor-to-ceiling walls of the Glass Houses penthouse venue.
“We thought highlighting black, navy and white just sort of synthesized and streamlined it to the silhouette and form — to highlight slacks, jackets, dresses. There’s tons more color as well though,” explained Tom Jarrold, the brand’s senior vice president of marketing, branding and communications.
The silhouettes were light and easy: a long caftan continued from resort was updated in white, but also offered short and in fiery red. Transparencies made for important details in the collection on dresses and blazers. The brand is making due diligence to keep new collections close to its core DNA — continuing long line and tweed jackets, a wide array of “New Standard” basics, and dresses — while maintaining a less embellished, tightly edited and focused approach going forward.

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Ihnn RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ihnn
Main message: South Korean-born, Tokyo-based designer Chisung Ihn made his runway debut outdoors at his alma mater, Bunka Fashion Graduate University. The rain that came down as a drum corps signaled the start and end of the show and only added to the atmosphere.
While intended for women, the collection was partially modeled by males in bright red lipstick, a shade that was mirrored on trenchcoats, bustier tops and open knits. Other colors were equally bold, and textures ranged from sheer organza to thick pleather. Sporty pieces included a striped knit dress, tech leggings, sports bras and a skirt with multiple drawstrings.
The result: While the silhouettes were not new, the designer put his own spin on them through color and texture. But the styling was uninventive and the collection grew repetitive with too many looks.

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Stair RTW Spring 2019

Name: Stair
Main message: Ryoko Mukasa chose a bright, sun-filled venue for her brand’s inaugural runway show, the softly filtered green of the trees through a wall of glass setting the tone for her collection. She showed loose lavender skirts and pantsuits, bright pink and coral-colored gathered satin jumpsuits, and a layered aquamarine chiffon dress. But her strongest looks had a subtle edginess to them, such as an off-the-shoulder blouse in crisp white shirting, with a thin lace underlay at the neckline, or a checked bias-cut skirt paired with a black-and-white open-knit sweater.
The result: There were some strong pieces, but as a whole the collection felt disjointed, as if the designer tried too hard to incorporate too many contrasting elements.

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Miu Miu RTW Spring 2019

Before the start of Miu Miu’s spring show, the room was dark to enhance viewing of close-up video of  models’ faces, their hair pulled back in headbands, one with a bold swipe of red across her eyelids, another with crimson lips, that was projected on white bubble letters spelling out the brand’s logo. It made you wonder if a beauty launch was afoot. In fact, the collection was about “deconstructing beauty,” explained Miuccia Prada after the show. “It’s talking about what’s interesting now — tailoring, glamour, elegance — reworking it and that’s what I did.”
You could take her at her word. The building blocks of a woman’s wardrobe, with the exception of any trace of hyper casual athleticwear, were on Prada’s table, up for reassessment. The question posed seemed to be: How to make it modern? The answer was to be to embrace the look of DIY, recycling, upcycling even if everything is brand new. It was all far from homespun, yet it took Prada’s signature ugly/pretty (but pretty perfect) trope in a different direction with a rare exploration of the messier side of imperfection. Consider the casting: aside from a few big name models, the runway was full of

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Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2019

An earthy majesty defines Sarah Burton’s work for Alexander McQueen. It’s raw, intimate and inspired by Britain’s rich pagan past.
For spring, Burton and her design staff visited several hallowed shrines of British paganism, including Silbury Hill and Avebury Stone Circle, sites where humans left indelible marks on nature, and where now, hundreds of years later, the two forces seem indelibly joined. She came away with a new take on her compelling, long-running heroine. “She’s always pagan, I suppose,” Burton said backstage, “rooted to the ground, rooted to the earth.” She is also typically self-sufficient, determined and powerful in her femininity, yet vulnerable, too, a concept that strikes a deep chord in our fractured world. Often, she projects an archetypal warrior goddess whose strength and gentleness manifest in unison, via, on one hand, strict tailoring, corsetry and harnesses, and on the other, gentle dresses with a look of ancient-world dishabille.
For spring, Burton focused on “a woman’s journey, the moments that she experiences in life, so birth, christening, sisterhood, motherhood, friendship. The idea of expressing feelings and being empowered by emotion and vulnerability.” All while being exquisitely turned out.
Burton is the reverse of the ready-to-wear designers who show during couture; she is

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Nicolas Andreas Taralis RTW Spring 2019

To counter what he sees as the darkness of the times, Nicolas Andreas Taralis moved away from his habitual somber register, injecting his spring collection with lightness and color in a sculptural way.
Rectangular strips of technical fabric were sewn together to evoke parachutes in free fall, moving with the body in transparent strips on column and bustier dresses in white and pale yellow, scarlet and fuchsia; billowing as a pale yellow puff-ball skirt with suspenders, paired with a T-shirt that read “Heroes” — in reference to David Bowie.
Tailored pieces like a dark green nylon satin suit and a black cotton jacket were crafted from panels of fabric, leaving gashes in which the wind would rustle.
Laser-cut foliage from a military register created texture on a unisex black coat intended to evoke a shell that protects the body, a motif reprised elsewhere on a white tailored jacket, its lining showing through, and on T-shirts and shift dresses. Elsewhere, Taralis delivered a more overt political message with printed slogans like “surrender” and “disobey” on bright Japanese sports mesh vests and photo prints of protests on his jersey T-shirts, adding a touch of street to what was an interesting, quirky lineup.

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Ximon Lee Spring RTW 2019

The designer in the gender-fluid, handiwork-intensive collection explored the concept of the east interpreted through a western filter. In particular, he looked to the creations of an American carpet manufacturer from the Thirties “who copied Chinese rugs.”
The designer challenged himself in the handiwork-intensive, textured collection, working with a weird palette of hues including deep purple, pistachio and mint that was outside of his comfort zone. The show set — a dingy garage with industrial lights and a wet floor sprinkled with eucalyptus oil — was equally strange.
A glitched jacquard suit in a carpet motif had a “foggy” aspect to it. Elsewhere, an eye-catching mesh dress came needle-punched with yellow silk thread, playing on the idea of forcing organic fibers into synthetic fibers.
The showpiece was an elaborate black and silver sequined robe dress, produced by hand in a workshop in Shanghai, bearing the face of an imaginary avatar.
A matching shirt and pant in a liquid mesh bonded with suiting fabric to create a wet-look effect, which was at once structured and light with an iridescence, offered the most compelling and wearable spin on the appearance-versus-reality theme.

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Dušan RTW Spring 2019

Understated luxury is the code word for Dusan Paunovic’s collection, constructed from high-end fabrics that are the building blocks for his cathedral of minimalism. For spring, the Serbian-born designer worked in a muted color palette of neutrals, working a raw-edged beige and cream herringbone linen, for example, into an elegant yet relaxed spaghetti-strap dress.
Superlight cashmere and silk knits, wide-legged linen culottes and Japanese hand-pressed lamé skirts, all staples in the Dušan vocabulary, were the backbone of the lineup. The outerwear was also strong, as demonstrated with a camel Loro Piana water-repellent cashmere coat with lining and contrasting Mao collar in white neoprene.
His patchworks of supersoft silk scarf prints in a palette of navy, forest green and dusty pink, used on flowing pants and sleeveless tops with a simple tie at the back of the neck, worked a treat.

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A.P.C. RTW Spring 2019

Jean and Judith Touitou took another step this season and moved outside the label’s intimate Rue Madame headquarters to show their coed lineup. They headed to a cavernous garage, emptied of cars and outfitted with roving spotlights that announced the start of the show.
The first look set the upbeat, rockabilly tone. Down the concrete car ramp came a sleek, jeans pants-and-shirt ensemble in dark blue with white stitching, a charming Elvis coiffe and pointy white boots, keys jangling from the belt. The bright blue bandana tightly wrapped around the model’s neck allowed a peek of the bright yellow T-shirt underneath.
It’s increasingly a question of survival-of-the-fittest in apparel these days and, not one to be left behind, the label is hankering after growth.
With their spring collection, the couple nudged their specific breed of easy and wearable elegance into younger territory, with their offer of jeans, colorful sweaters, smart outerwear and belt bags stamped with an A, a P or a C.
Dresses were cut sensibly, continuing in the same register as last season — non fussy, elegant and #metoo age-appropriate. These included a checked trenchcoat dress and several prairie dresses. The label’s emphasis on outerwear was expanded to include brighter colors, and

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Ioannes Spring 2019 RTW

Johannes Boehl Cronau showed his spring collection on the ground floor of Lafayette Anticipations, where models mingled on a floor strewn with pink slips of paper, wearing opened-toed mules. He continued to expose midriffs, using thinly knit bra tops this time, which he paired with cycling shorts in the same material.
The designer has a sharp focus, training his efforts on a select assortment of silhouettes that emphasize his eye for detail; he said he hoped the collection would mark a “really good start for what we’re trying to do.”
Drawing influences from carpentry from his childhood in Germany, he made a luxurious version of a tool belt, one in shiny black leather, another one in gray, which he used to complete an all-gray look. The trousers were both refined and easy, with two short zippers running vertically on the front, matched with a knit bra top.
Black nylon trousers with zips and a few flaps turned out to be an opened-up boiler suit, which was worn with a lightly knit tank top. He used the same knit for an elongated dress that had loops hanging off of the bottom, like mini arm straps.
He slightly enlarged fisherman’s hats, which came in somber hues

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Anaïs Jourden RTW Spring 2019

Anaïs Mak captured the coming-of-age vibe she was after. Tucked into plush sofas ringing the runway, guests waited under the dimmed red lights of the club’s low ceilings, the carpet’s skull-and-flower pattern barely discernible.
But when the lights snapped on and the sentimental saxophone riff streamed out — George Michael’s “Careless Whisper,” what else? — the audience was thrust into her bedroom, or wherever she had a full-length mirror, some privacy and a closet stuffed with possibilities.
“I think the girl is exploring maturing,” said Mak, the Hong Kong-born and -based designer whose label is called Anaïs Jourden. “You see a slight ‘Lolita’ influence in the collection,” she added.
The models wore mostly dresses, occasionally with a trail of ruffles, often in a bias cut and strapless at times — one had lacing between the breasts. Wearing stiletto Barbie heels — patent leather with a puff of fake fur, no straps to secure an ankle — some teetered, while others strutted confidently, hair tied up in a tussled ponytail.
“We used to rely heavily on textures and volume,” said Mak, noting the aim was ease and fluidity this time. Speaking before the show, she pointed to a pencil-shaped dress made from cotton treated for

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Anton Belinskiy RTW Spring 2019

Ukrainian designer Anton Belinskiy’s first fashion show had religious airs. Incense burned on the steps inside the Palais de Tokyo, while some models sported wimples.
Belinskiy explored the concept of belief, whether religious or just as a way of giving meaning to life. He relied on the imagery of the Orthodox Church, in reference to his mother’s faith and his own trips to the local church in Kiev. Religious nods were given a pop-culture spin: tiny icons were printed on simple cotton T-shirts, while a rainbow-hued circular icon was depicted on a pink beaded crop top.
Models, both male and female, carried big sports bags. “When people retreat into religion, they pack up all their belongings and disappear,” explained the designer, who founded his brand in 2009. Film stills from “Adam and Eve” were printed on leggings, skirts and trousers. Some models wore seashell necklaces, other carried ceramic donation baskets.
The show was fast-paced and youthful, but the looks were a bit all over the place. An orange shiny jumpsuit was followed by a denim leotard worn with colorful leggings, then a Hawaiian shirt, finally a black deconstructed bustier dress. Despite this, the whole offering was energetic and exciting. The finalist for the

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Pihakapi RTW Spring 2019

Canadian designer Vejas Kruszewski, who won the LVMH Prix Spécial prize in 2016, chose to put his namesake brand on hold to focus on a new project. Now in its second season, Pihakapi, a brand developed in partnership with Italian leather manufacturer Pellemoda, blends high-quality leather with the 21-year-old-designer’s radical vision.
“Because the brand is leather-focused, I like to build the collection around the outerwear,” said Kruszewski at the presentation of his spring collection (the first offering was shown during men’s fashion week, Pihakapi being a unisex brand.)
A black leather trenchcoat featured details from this season’s key inspirations: mini leather horns recalling the anatomy of the stag beetle on the sleeves and a flame shaped cowboy collar. The same details were reworked on denim and jersey, as well as on a side-slit black slipdress, a welcome update to the wardrobe staple.
“I was really interested in reworking Western wear,” said the designer, gesturing to a white linen skirt with a black leather holster detail. He also created a pair of “refined chaps,” playing on the dichotomy between leather and fabric. The chocolate-colored leather added texture and serious flair to a pair of well-cut black trousers. Throwing in a couple of Grecian draped

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Kolor RTW Spring 2019

A campaign video filmed in Hollywood and a tacky karaoke bar on the outskirts of Tokyo served as the perfect backdrop for this fun, crafty collection, with the models sped up and slowed down.
The signature inventiveness of Junichi Abe, an experienced patternmaker, was in fine form with offbeat touches like an accumulation of fabric textures on a skirt, the haphazard embroidery on lace collars of sweaters, and lines of tape used to join layers to garments — including a red tulle layer on a black T-shirt — or rework volumes, giving a DIY spin.
A series of triple-layered hi-tech anoraks mixing colors and materials to create depth were terrific. More cute in mood were the colored marled knits with contrast lace accents.
The designer also revisited traditional checks in polyester on neo-geek shirts, with oversized shapes used throughout the collection.

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Inès de la Fressange RTW Spring 2019

The collection, presented in a salon at the Ritz Paris, was strangely wrinkled. Not to worry — it was all part of Inès de la Fressange’s vision of Parisian chic. “People are scared of linen and see it as a difficult fabric,” said the designer. “But I wanted to show that things needn’t be perfectly ironed. It gives the feeling that you’re still on holiday.”
Nevertheless the effect was scruffy, and diverted the attention from the stronger points of the collection. There was a pair of “new denim” straight leg trousers in dark blue linen, created in reaction to the Parisian heat wave; a cowboy style red shirt — “because you can look Parisian wearing a shirt from Texas” — and an elegant two-piece beige checked suit, that de la Fressange herself was wearing.
Masculine-inspired tailoring was as efficient as always, but the designer seemed tired of churning out the same old “Parisienne” ideal. “People always think that chic has to be conventional, when there isn’t necessarily a link between the two things,” she said. “I’m bored with conventionalism.”
In reaction to that, the collection went full Seventies, with colorful printed silk shirts and flared trousers. The whole offering seemed to miss the

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2019

Should fashion be political?
It’s a question that has consumed editors in a week dominated by the U.S. Senate Judiciary Committee’s hearing into sexual assault allegations against Supreme Court nominee Brett Kavanaugh. For better or for worse, in the era of #MeToo, a hemline is no longer just a hemline.
While some designers have shrugged off feminist readings of their collections, and others appeared to deliberately court controversy, Nicolas Ghesquière embraced the moment with his lineup of retro-futuristic clothes, shown in a maze of neon-lit tunnels set up in the courtyard of the Louvre Museum after dark.
“This is not a narrative collection. This is about my obsession to empower women,” he said after the show. “There were so many discussions the last months about the place of women, and I thought that this is really an intuition to want to give power when you are a designer.”
He did that by tapping into a few of his other obsessions: sci-fi imagery and exaggerated volumes. Dominican model Ambar Cristal Zarzuela, making her Paris debut, opened the show in an oversized blouson with millefeuille sleeves featuring photo prints of candy-colored artificial landscapes.
The sleeves were the connective tissue between his eclectic band of intergalactic explorers. They

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Marvel Reveals New Captain Marvel Comic for 2019

Today Marvel Comics revealed that Captain Marvel will be getting a new ongoing comic just in time for her MCU debut. The new series, simply titled “Captain Marvel,” will debut in January 2019 following the conclusion of The Life of Captain Marvel.

As revealed by The New York Times, the new volume of Captain Marvel will feature a brand-new creative team, including writer Kelly Thompson (West Coast Avengers), artist Carmen Carnero (X-Men Red) and colorist Tamra Bonvillain (Doom Patrol).

Captain Marvel #1 art by Carmen Carnero. (Marvel Comics)

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Chanel RTW Spring 2019

Excuse the clichéd lede, but at Chanel, life’s a beach. Not a shark-attack beach or a misogynist beach, but a serene, inviting blue-sky beach, with real water undulating into and away from the pristine sand.
Inspired by the shores of Sylt, the German island Karl Lagerfeld frequented as a child, the Chanel waterfront was gloriously peaceful. (Not to mention well-tended, another astonishing display of Chanel execution and Wertheimer largess created inside the Grand Palais.) You could close you eyes and let the sounds of the gently rushing water transport you anywhere your mind felt like wandering. That is, if you got there early. But then the revelers showed up — Pharrell Williams, Vanessa Paradis and Pamela Anderson (Sylt, Schmylt. Bring on the “Baywatch” nostalgia.)
They shook off the sand and settled into their boardwalk-bench seats in time for a rollicking beach romp. Lagerfeld is brilliant at presenting the Chanel oeuvre in a different light season after season, with mood changes from refined to cool to bourgeois, while altering the intensity of the house iconography (at least all markers save for those essential jackets), sometimes lightening up on buttons, camellias, double-Cs, even handbags. Not here. This was a flamboyant merch fest – unabashed, shameless, and wonderfully so.

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Sacai RTW Spring 2019

Chitose Abe does what she does and she does it incredibly well. The colors, the patterns, the references change from season to season but the template remains the same — hybrid dressing. She makes it look easy. She makes it wearable. Keeping it current is a matter of her impeccable taste and exacting eye.
For spring, she cast her gaze on crisp white cottons, tuxedo shirts, fisherman jackets, florescent colors, trenchcoat khaki, denim, madras, polo shirts and painterly collages. That’s a lot of ground to cover and material blend without making a mess. Abe has pared down from her earlier collections. The volumes are more controlled, the number of garments fused together limited so a woman can break out a piece and work it into her wardrobe without fear of looking like a clown.
To list off all the looks in the spring lineup would be exhausting. The whites were worn with white. Trenches were fused with denim jackets. Polos merged into the painterly. It all made sense, if it didn’t warrant much in terms of critical assessment. It is what it is. It’s very good. How will it advance? It very well might not.

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Véronique Leroy RTW Spring 2019

Véronique Leroy built on her recent foray into denim with a range of great bi-colored styles worked in contrasting strips, combining the different sides of the fabric, and edged with raw seams. Topstitching was another leitmotif of the collection. She also introduced two T-shirt styles for the first time in her career, with draped sleeves, and an embroidered logo.
Outwear included a cropped printed raincoat in a strange shade of green, and an off-white nylon coat.
“There’s always something a bit off, a bit borderline good-taste-bad-taste,” said the designer, gesturing to a sleeveless dress and fluid trench in a brown check “a bit like a tablecloth.”
Other highlights included long dresses in a sheer silk crepe with contrast seams, loose-gauge knits, and a selection of pieces in cotton lace that read beach.

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Françoise RTW Spring 2019

Johanna Senyk got off to a nice start with her new solo act, with a concise, Seventies-inspired dress-centric collection that, with its nicely dosed mix of old school-cool, humor and femininity, is bound to win over the hearts of young Parisians and beyond.
The linen on a long black dress with spaghetti straps and yellow stripes at the hem had a nice weight to it. More ebullient in attitude was a one-shoulder ruffled floral lamé top for summer night drinks on a terrasse.
The textures and fabric combinations were pleasing, like the white summer dress with a smocked panel on the body, or a patchwork dress made by hand from deadstock fabrics that had a charming retro innocence to it. Other highlights included a sweet white and red sailor dress with a plunging V-neck and puffy sleeves.
The designer also presented a line of bags, including the bestselling Françoise handbag with tassels, inspired by Jane Fonda in “Klute.”
The flared pantsuits in retro tones like rust and a Seventies buttercup added to the tongue-in-cheek, free-spirited mood of the collection that should manage to stand out in a crowded market.

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Faith Connexion RTW Spring 2019

Nikola Vasari is flexing his creative muscles as Faith Connexion moves into a new era – pared back, but no less streetwise. Named creative director — the collaborative label’s first — earlier this month, Vasari presented a spring collection created under his supervision inspired by an “imaginary trip to Rajasthan.”
Remember when The Beatles traveled to India and embraced yoga in the late Sixties? This was very much what the collection evoked — glammed-up military references, pretty flower-power dresses in crêpe de chine, oriental embroideries on super-wide flares, pink lurex a-go-go and fil coupé jacquard tailoring were all part of the mix. These were brought into the 21st century and the Faith Connexion vernacular with items like an outsize sleeveless jean jacket bleached with Sanskrit lettering or distressed denim designs whose holes were filled with sequins. Smart yet edgy standouts in the lineup included a gold-buttoned utilitarian skirt in navy with a detachable fishtail hem.

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Atlein RTW Spring 2019

Antonin Tron was thinking about utopia, “you know, living differently,” he said before his spring show. “I guess it’s on a lot of people’s minds right now, how you cope with a new world.” It was the kind of thought that can easily get lost in translation in the collection, but Tron’s spring lineup was a blissful breeze of clothes that were not overthought, overdone or overly complicated in any way. They weren’t boring either. That’s the fashion promised land.
When Tron launched the collection two and a half years ago, it was all about draped jersey made modern in understated cool-girl pieces. Tron has developed his language to include tailoring, knits, prints and printed silk georgette, which was new this season. The show opened with fresh optic white and a dash of muted yellow on a sporty, one-sleeved T-shirt and white pants and a draped tank dress with winding seams that traced the curves of the body. From there, Tron flexed his keen sense of color and pattern, working with mixes of graphic, vaguely tribal patterns and plaids gleaned from frequent trips to Africa, India and Indonesia. Sometimes he mixed prints by layering two dresses or a dress and T-shirt.

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Serenity (2019)

Serenity (2019) Opens Friday, Jan 25, 2019

Baker Dill is a fishing boat captain leading tours off a tranquil, tropical enclave called Plymouth Island. His quiet life is shattered, however, when his ex-wife Karen tracks him down with a desperate plea for help.

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Victoria/Tomas RTW Spring 2019

The courtyard of the Faculté de Médecine was covered with a bright yellow carpet, an echo to the upbeat mood the Victoria/Tomas spring collection was created in. “We wanted this collection to be positive,” said designers Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins backstage. “We were in a good mood all the way through designing it.”
To the sound of French band Minuit performing their track “Paris Tropical,” models sauntered around the courtyard wearing a mix of urban pieces, such as structured cargo jackets, cropped hoodies and high-collared shirtdresses with holiday looks.
“Last summer, there was a heat wave in Paris,” said Feldman. “We were sitting at a terrace, drinking rosé and dreaming about going on holiday. Like most Parisians.” As a result, the pair stuck to a bright color palette — a stand-out piece being a silver lamé minidress — with romantic ruffles, graphic stripes and tassel details on skirts and jackets.
The brand collaborated with Italian designer Nico Giani on a line of 12 bags, including a canary yellow fanny pack. Additionally, sporty underwear was created in collaboration with French lingerie brand Maison Chantelle, using their Soft Stretch material. Victoria/Tomas also introduced a new shoe style, open-toed lace-up ankle boots.
Jewelry was particularly innovative:

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Afterhomework RTW Spring 2019

For Afterhomework’s first show on the official Paris schedule, design duo Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola reached out to accessories designer Isaac Reina to create the boxy leather bags that peppered the models’ looks.
“He works with Raf Simons for Calvin Klein,” Kaczmarek said backstage, visibly excited. “It was important to us to work with people like him, because we need their support and experience to grow. We’ve never been to fashion school.”
Billing themselves as the youngest designers on the fashion calendar, the duo presented grown-up versions of previous offerings in black, white and blue. Off-the-shoulder deconstructed shirts were paired with teeny skirts or stretch joggers; overalls were delivered in a wide-leg version, and ruched sleeves were added to a spaghetti-strap dress.
A pop of color was added by a red “Afterhomework Polo Club” sweater, an obvious nod to similar Ralph Lauren styles. An AHP logo was also spotted on a black towel thrown over shoulders, mimicking the font of the Calvin Klein logo.

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Manuel Facchini RTW Spring 2019

Manuel Facchini’s signature gothic and rock ‘n’ roll vibes took on a military feel for spring. The traditional epaulettes of army jackets, which got a glamorous makeover via sparkling accents, decorated a long wrap dress, an asymmetric jacket with cutouts on the sleeves, as well as a shirtdress/bomber jacket hybrid.
While the skin-tight leather pants and the biker jackets interwoven with vinyl felt a bit rigid, embroidered dresses with ergonomic cuts and sheer inserts offered a more wearable version of the brand’s futuristic femininity.

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Laura Biagiotti RTW Spring 2019

Lavinia Biagiotti is mapping out the future for the company she inherited from her mother Laura, and she said she wants it to be “joyful and full of energy.” To that end, her spring collection was a colorful ode to Futurism, her family’s passion, as she defined it. The Biagiotti Foundation owns more than 250 Futuristic works and is among the most prestigious collections dedicated to Giacomo Balla. Lavinia Biagiotti reworked details from such masterpieces into patterns on miniskirts, light gauze dresses with ruffles and silk tops. She played with brightly colored stripes, combining them in graphic patterns and juxtaposed with more subtle checks. Balla designs were also reproduced on a simple T-shirt worn casually over masculine baggy pants or on Biagiotti’s bucket bag – as well as on the stage of the Piccolo Teatro, where the brand has been showing for the past 25 years. To further support the storied venue, the designer set up a corner at the entrance where accessories and a pullover from the spring season could be purchased on the spot so that proceeds from the sale would benefit the theater.
The brand’s iconic white knits and dresses were not missing from the lineup and also

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Gabriele Colangelo RTW Spring 2019

Gabriele Colangelo’s spring collection was like a cold drink of water on a very hot day – and not just because the weather in Milan has been at high summer temps all week. His colors were coolly vivid, a mix of optic white, indigo, orange, ice blue, jade and khaki, and his lines were an update on clean, Nineties utilitarianism with a slight techno accent.
White shirts, jackets and slips were treated with artful indigo tie-dye, one of the season’s big trends, here done with colors that looked fresh and intense with each other. Sheer slips were layered over pants and plaid shirts for a neo grunge effect, and tailoring came with structured pleats and contrast-stitched seaming that struck a note of crafty industrial rawness.
 

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Emilio Pucci RTW Spring 2019

Bet you thought the prints at Pucci were something fished from the archive, maybe circa ’67 or ’72. Wrong. They were all spanking new. Not a single reissue for spring 2019, though clearly the historical influence was there. This was to indicate that the house is focusing on the future, as was the unisex collection it released earlier this year, under which the clothes modeled by men fell as well.
To further summon a youthful spirit, the creative team envisioned the presentation as a Carribean Pucci villa, populated by models dancing to reggae beats in a collection of tropical colors and easy fits. There were tank and shirtdresses cut with sprays of pleated and printed swatches. Loose, long shirts were worn open over bright, cropped pants and simple cocktail dresses were embroidered over prints. The throwback Pucci glamour remained intact, but there was a kitschy ease that might appeal to a new generation.

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Cristina Ottaviano RTW Spring 2019

During the first week of June, eveningwear designer Cristina Ottaviano took a trip to Lake Como, which resulted in a fluid, water-inspired spring collection. The designer’s mills are also based in the region, giving her the opportunity to go into them and design the pieces while she was there, which she described as “phenomenal.” The result included abstract interpretations — an off-the-shoulder gown with a printed sequin and stretch tulle base and bustier that mimicked the texture and feel of water or a strapless white gown with gold herringbone bugle cascading across the bust and down the dress. All of the looks were refined and elegant, with pops of surprise and fun, like a light pink suit set, strapless gold minidress or a divine white column dress with a silver top. Next up for Ottaviano: her second bridal collection in October.

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Aspesi RTW Spring 2019

Aspesi is known for its easy-chic outerwear, flattering cotton and silk shirts, well-cut trousers and fresh summery shirtdresses. But in keeping with the Milan-based company’s new goal to reach a wider audience worldwide, Aspesi unveiled a spring wardrobe focused on a more elegant look. Even if the brand’s daywear staples were still there — think linen blazers layered over cotton printed with chic graphic patterns, lightweight trenchcoats and colorful boxy sleeveless tops worn with fluid maxi skirts — the lineup offered its particular take on eveningwear.
This is Aspesi, so there was no bling-bling, no flamboyant decoration or any kind of extravaganza. A group of minimal dresses in bright tones of red, hot pink, purple and yellow were impeccable. A bustier style was embellished with a tiny belt at the waist, a fluid halter-neck design showed crisscross details at the back and a cotton poplin T-shirt frock had a feminine V-neck. A textured brocade fabric was crafted for a sophisticated jacket and trousers matched with a featherweight blouse with a Chinese collar and an allover tone-on-tone beaded pattern.
The collection achieved Aspesi’s aim, moving the brand forward with quintessentially feminine style while not losing its signature discreet Milanese elegance.

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Brooks Brothers RTW Spring 2019

Creative Director Zac Posen delivered a garden party brimming with a youthful take on corporate attire inspired in part by images of Jacqueline de Ribes in the garden.
He introduced a cheeky cherry print, which was cut into a playful pleated skirt and embroidered onto a little T, and undercut the collection with a fresh vintage ease. Pink tweed suiting was enlivened with fluorescent orange specks, while a prim-cut blazer came in a sweet pastel orange. A floral jacquard jacket-and-skirt set harked to the fashion sensibility that could be seen in his namesake secondary line.
The storied brand has been able to draw in younger customers with updates to wardrobe staples that have a modern, easy approach to sophistication. Shirt dressing has been key, and was cut this season with a navy porcelain print and an orange style with a playful wrap belt. No item balanced modish feminine flair with a transitional day-to-evening quality more than a flirty color-blocked dress in blush, ivory and lime.
Posen made sure to offer loyal customers approachable elegance with classic seersucker in driftwood brown, suiting styled with casual striped Ts and stretchy graphic jacquards. For the new professional woman, look no further for a blend of leisure,

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Jenny Packham RTW Spring 2019

After showing in New York for nearly a decade, Jenny Packham came home to London to celebrate her 30 years in business. She staged two presentations at her Mount Street flagship, one for press on Sunday and a separate one for customers — and the public — was planned for Monday.
A celebrity and royal favorite with a flourishing evening, cocktail and bridal business, Packham took Jean Harlow as her inspiration for spring, conjuring a collection with lots of old Tinseltown glamour, inspired by the alluring — and hard-living — actress and Thirties Hollywood star.
“It was time to bring Jean out,” said Packham, who said her interest in Harlow was piqued when she was in Hollywood a few years ago, looking at Marilyn Monroe memorabilia. While the looks she showed on Sunday were beaded and sequined and adorned with Swarovski crystals, she said she wanted to do them all with a light touch.
The old-world glam quotient was high: A version of the silver sequin-paved wrap-front gown has already sold out on Net-a-porter, while a long, midnight blue hand-beaded dress had a plunging V neck.
At the same time, there was always a modern yet demure feel to the clothes. A frothy dress

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Gareth Pugh RTW Spring 2019

Gareth Pugh, one of London’s most celebrated provocateurs, staged his spring 2019 show as an ode to his hometown and to “outsider society.”
Set in a dimly lit space of the Old Selfridges hotel and to the blasting sounds of industrial music, Pugh revisited some of his signatures, to deliver a powerful, high-voltage spectacle.
The show opened with a cry in the dark — Freddie Mercury singing “Why can’t we gives ourselves one more chance” — which made everyone’s hair stand on end. It was followed by a parade of models who stomped down the runway, strutting their stuff in punk, high platform boots that made them look like otherworldly creatures.
The clothes inspired the same punchy attitude. There was a strong focus on tailoring with an array of blazers and tuxedo dresses featuring big shoulders and spliced sleeves, while other signatures like funnel necks and sharp, voluminous trench coats in metallic leather were also peppered throughout the range.
Pugh also brought back a graphic red and orange star print — splashed all over coats and bodysuits — that was first introduced in his graduate collection.
It was a fierce, riotous collection that was reminiscent of a time when fashion was more about a purist,

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Watch the Delpozo Spring 2019 London Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Delpozo Spring/Summer 2019 London Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Sunday, September 16 at 9:00 a.m. EDT.
 

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Xiao Li RTW Spring 2019

“I wanted to create a strong holiday feeling with this collection because to be honest, everyone around me had a holiday in August and I’m quite jealous! I missed mine,” the designer Xiao Li told WWD after the show.
For Li’s holiday wardrobe, stripes reigned supreme, as well as delicate ginghams, bold oversized holographic hats and whisper-weight silk pieces embellished with ice blue crystals.
Wide summer stripes in baby blue, pink and yellow opened the show on a series of boxy jackets with ruff detailing and matching skirts, followed by macs paired with tulle socks and white platform sandals, and pullovers worn over hooded swimsuits. Delicate drop-waisted gingham dresses were subverted with belted leather harnesses featuring structured ruffles that sat atop shoulders, while sleeveless iridescent macs were nipped with contrasting belts with exaggerated buckles.
This season, Li developed a fabric inspired by bubble wrap made using silk that was cleverly transformed into full-cut trousers, delicate fishermen’s vests teamed with flouncy skirts, and a lustrous tiered hem dress that closed the show.

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Versus RTW Spring 2019

“Gianni gave Donatella Versus 1989” was the iconic print of the Versus spring collection, which marks the 30th anniversary of the brand to be celebrated next year. The lineup was unveiled with one-on-one appointments at the brand’s showroom in Milan.
The lettering came printed on a range of easy-to-wear, street-focused pieces, which embodied the urban, young and fun spirit of the brand. T-shirts, dresses with side slits, hoodies, mini pleated skirts, anoraks and jeans created an iconic, bold wardrobe for frisky, cool city boys and girls.
Vintage prints were revamped with a contemporary twist. A hand-painted feel gave an artsy, creative touch to the lettering inspired by Gianni Versace’s Vanitas Designs book. The motif was splashed on camp shirts, leggings, sweatshirts and skirts with nylon waistbands, while a logo with Gianni Versace’s authentic signature pops up on off-the-shoulder cropped tops and sleeveless hoodies.
Multicolor logo patches in a fresh palette of aqua green and neon pink punctuated the sharp-cut indigo denim pants, jackets and mini skirts, as well as the eye-catching nylon parkas and windbreakers.
Drawstring details, net and retro sporty graphics also introduced a touch of athleticism in the colorblocked dresses, tops and track suits, which epitomized the highly energetic, dynamic soul of the

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Lou Dallas Water Bow RTW Spring 2019

As guests filled in to St. Mark’s Church-in-the-Bowery for designer Raffaella Hanley’s spring Lou Dallas show there was a faint sound of someone clearing their throat playing over the loudspeaker. The sound got louder as the downtown crowd settled in and a ballerina began dancing on a stage of the church.
The sound, it turns out, was part of a piece by James K, in collaboration with Hanley, meant to explore how the mouth works and was a recording of people chewing gum. It got louder and louder as a tribe of models, each blowing gum bubbles came down the runway.
The whole thing played to Hanley’s collection of “do-it-yourself” pieces, which she called “Water Bow,” and was inspired by the idea of wading into the South Street Seaport. The thrashed looking silhouettes had a mix iridescent ruffles with sea colors. Repurposed pieces like biker shorts and knit body suits added to the sea vibe. Hanley again embellished pieces with the phrase “Think Otherwise,” her tongue and check take on a statement top. There was a lot going on but some interesting shapes and homespun craftsmanship to see.

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Vaquera RTW Spring 2019

Vaquera’s spring show was like a fun little pop quiz that the whole class already knew all the answers to — no head-scratchers here. Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully showed at P.S. 42 Benjamin Altman on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, the runway winding through cafeteria tables littered with bubblegum, spilled Coke cans and wadded-up loose leaf paper. The “Harry Potter” theme song set up a procession of high-school stereotypes — jocks, sluts, cheerleaders, goths — that twisted through the Vaquera looking glass so that freaks and geeks ruled the school. Is subversion still subversive when the concept has gone so mainstream?
The prom king wore pumps with a literal sweatsuit, a tux made from gray fleece. The cheerleader looked like she had spent the night at a rager in her bra top and tattered mini dress. Football pads were reimagined as a cute denim harness; your little brother’s sports bedsheets were transformed into a voluminous gown, and those finicky Scantrons became a print on a pair of pants.
A footnote on Vaquera’s shownotes defined the label as “a unisex clothing line that redefines luxury fashion through narrative-based collections.” The story they were telling was clear, though it stands to note

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Watch the Michael Kors Spring 2019 New York Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2019 New York Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Monday, September 11 at 10:00 a.m. EDT.

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Zero + Maria Cornejo RTW Spring 2019

“It’s all about strong women,” said Maria Cornejo backstage at her spring runway show. Her inspiration was epitomized in the collection by a print reproducing a work by Chilean artist Gracia Barrios, an abstract pattern consisting of sketched faces of extraordinary international female personalities. The motif was printed, for example, on a fresh cotton top worn with a draped skirt crafted from organic denim, as well as on a maxishirt paired with relaxed cropped pants.
In keeping with her quintessentially chic aesthetic, the designer delivered a beautiful collection where an unfussy urban mood was warmed up by Cornejo’s Latin sensibility, expressed particularly in the color palette of earthy, neutral tones juxtaposed with bright shades of coral red and vivid blue.
By choosing an inclusive casting of women of different ages, Cornejo wanted to highlight the timeless spirit of the collection, one designed to transcend seasonal trends and provide longevity and continuity among generations. While the oversized striped suit that opened the show and a sharp-cut denim jacket worn with matching pants looked more rigorous and infused with a certain mannish feel, the frocks and tops with plunging necks and the satin long dresses and revisited pajama sets revealed the very feminine side

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Nia Imani Franklin, Miss New York, Is the Winner of Miss America 2019

Hey hey, Miss America 2.0 comes through.
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Nia Franklin, Miss New York, Miss AmericaA new Miss America has been crowned.
Miss New York’s Nia Franklin took home the title on Sunday and assumed the position from 2018 winner Cara Mund.
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Rosetta Getty RTW Spring 2019

Rosetta Getty homed in on the work of artist Liz Flynn, who works in many mediums, but whose pottery struck Getty after a studio visit. Getty imbued her spring collection with the colors of Flynn’s ceramic glazes and clays: red, lemon yellow, pool green, bisque and gray. The palette and soft silhouettes — long and languid with hemlines that gently pooled at the feet — coalesced for a serene, organic minimalism. Getty pointed out some bias cuts and spiral details, specifically evening dresses with corkscrew knit fringe, that represented sculptural ease and the quiet hardware details, such as silver zippers, that mark a very subtle branding push for her.

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Watch the Carolina Herrera Spring 2019 New York Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2019 New York Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Monday, September 10 at 10:00 a.m. EDT.

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Longchamp RTW Spring 2019

Anita Pallenberg and Veruschka were name-checked by Longchamp’s Sophie Delafontaine when speaking backstage about what inspired her for spring. She said she was trying to channel a woman who was “elegant and chic, but had a twist of eccentricity.”
This translated to a lineup with a palette of cobalt blue, chocolate brown and clay reds shown in a mix of layered dresses, tunics and vests. Delafontaine diluted the rich tones with several pieces in a leopard print and some semisheer maxidresses in a bright ikat.
She highlighted the French house’s history of leather craftsmanship with leather details that popped up throughout the collection. Delafontaine homed in on iconic Sixties pieces like fringed halter tops and dresses and suede shorts, pairing many looks with a thigh-high gladiator sandal, many of which were also embellished with fringe.
Handbags are synonymous with the privately owned house; Delafontaine updated her cross-body Amazone bag, introduced in fall; on the runway, it was reimagined in a variety of iterations, some with earth stone details with lambskin, a few with fur and of course, more fringe. The fringe was heavy-handed and could have been dialed back some, as nearly every look had some sort of fringe accent.
The show was a

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John Elliott Men’s and Women’s Spring 2019

John Elliott brought a healthy dose of California to New York City for his spring show, taking over a skate park on the Hudson River to drive home the inspiration for the season: Los Angeles. With the 90-plus-degree heat and blazing sun, it was L.A. at its most extreme.
The designer did his best to make attendees comfortable on their colorful milk-crate seats by providing cold water or juice and portable fans. But most faces were shiny with sweat by the time his celebrity guests arrived: LeBron James and Justin Bieber, the latter arriving hand-in-hand with fiancée Hailey Baldwin and grooving to the soundtrack.
Elliott considered his hometown “the most authoritative story” he could tell this season. “Not the stereotypical, glitzy, Hollywood L.A.,” he noted, “but the real neighborhoods — that’s my truth.”
It shone through in its casual vibe and the seamless blend of streetwear and athletic references. Elliott also showed a new maturity by offering up a blend of technical materials and varying silhouettes that took inspiration from different eras to create a never-ending youthful vibe.
His L.A. inspiration was obvious in the slightly oversize shorts and jackets that he emblazoned with a colorful bougainvillea print — a bit out of character

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New York Spring 2019 Designer Inspirations: Part Two

In part two of WWD’s New York Fashion Week pre-show coverage for spring 2019, travel continues to serve as inspirational fodder.
Michael Kors Collection will dream up a “global utopia”; Christian Siriano was inspired by “the perfect dream holiday vacation in Hawaii,” while Mark Badgley and James Mischka are celebrating 30 years in business “through the looking glass.”
Grittier influences include Stacey Bendet’s “Passport to Wonderland” for Alice + Olivia, Veronica Beard’s interpretation of “hot nights in the urban jungle,” and Sally LaPointe’s “sci-fi Western.”
Click through the gallery for more clues into what’s to come this week from Anna Sui, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Prabal Gurung and more.

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Land of Distraction RTW Spring 2019

“She’s in L.A. now, still in the Seventies; she’s become a bit of a groupie with the rock stars, so she’s taking some of their wardrobe and you’re going to see some sparkle,” is how Christian Juul Nielsen, Land of Distraction’s creative director, described the label’s Collection 4. Over the past three seasons, he and executive creative director Danita Short have designed a fresh, modern take on the Seventies-meets-tough-girl aesthetic. For their latest array, they added hints of glamour, in the form of shine for day: Lurex knits such as a striped tank dress and ruffled pussy-bow blouses; a paillette-covered boxy sweater vest with striped varsity collar and a really fun snakeskin laminated cotton twill cropped pant and matching jacket. The duo also expanded into a few cocktail options; a disco-ball-inspired paillette and micro-sequin covered dress made the best case.
New for the brand were men’s wear-inspired wide-cut shorts and two really great shirtdresses — one striped with wide cuffs, another in crisp white with short ruffled sleeves. Shimmery rock-inspired tops and “El Lay” slogan sweaters layered well with the brand’s evolved utilitarian staples and wallpaper printed florals. Next up for the duo? Nielsen has just been named creative director of Hervé Léger, and

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Ariana Grande Says Fiancé Pete Davidson ‘Ticks Every Box,’ Reveals They’ll Likely Marry in 2019

Ariana Grande and Pete Davidson just knew.

In interview with Michael Strahan for Good Morning America on Wednesday, the singer, 25, revealed why she considers the Saturday Night Live star her soul mate.

“It’s just like a feeling, you know?” Grande told Strahan before laughing to herself, adding, “That’s so cheesy. People are always like, ‘When you know you know,’ and you’re like, ‘Yeah, okay, whatever.’ ”

Strahan further pressed the pop star, asking for specifics. “You just feel it… He just ticks every box, and it gets better every day,” she responded. “I’m very grateful for him. Life is beautiful.”

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Grande also admitted she knows all eyes are on her and Davidson, 24, when they step out, saying, “We’re so annoying, huh?… It must be the worst.”

“We’re just grateful, enjoying every minute because life’s too short,” Grande added.

Up next for the couple? Wedding planning — though Grande told GMA the couple is “taking their time.”

“My friends and I, and my mom and everybody have been brainstorming and sharing ideas,” she said. “It’s really fun. I work so much I’ve never spent so much time planning something that’s personal, that feeds my soul so much and my heart. I’m gonna cry. I’m just so excited.”

Grande said that the pair won’t make their trek down the aisle soon, though, teasing, “It’s gonna be like, next year.”

The star also opened up about her new album, Sweetener, released on August 17, and the much-discussed track named after Davidson — a song, she told Strahan, she wrote as a “love letter.”

During the interview, Grande spoke with Strahan about grappling with the terrorist attack at her concert in Manchester in May 2017, which killed 22 people.

RELATED: Ariana Grande Breaks Down in Tears Over ‘Scary’ Manchester Attack: ‘Be There for Each Other’

“I wanted to kind of subliminally honor the Manchester victims,” she said about a track on her new album, “Get Well Soon.” Continued Grande, “I wanted to make the length of the song five minutes and 22 seconds as a way to celebrate and honor them and their lives, because that song is about healing. It’s supposed to be a great big musical hug for anybody going through anything dark.”

RELATED: Ariana Grande & Pete Davidson Show PDA During VMAs Debut as a Couple: ‘Thank You for Existing’

Earlier this week, Grande and Davidson walked their first red carpet together at the 2018 MTV Video Music Awards a little more than two months after getting engaged. Later, when Grande accepted her award for best pop video, she gave her husband-to-be a shout out. “Pete Davidson, thank you for existing,” she said, simply.

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RELATED VIDEO: Ariana Grande Cries While Singing ‘Natural Woman’ in Powerful Tribute to Aretha Franklin

Davidson and Grande started casually dating in late May, PEOPLE confirmed, before getting engaged in June, with the comedian giving the singer a 3-carat diamond ring.

RELATED: Ariana Grande and Pete Davidson Coordinate in Neon Jackets: ‘Subtle Like Our Love’

Davidson dished about the engagement shortly after during a June appearance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon. “I feel like I won a contest, so sick. It’s f—ing lit, Jimmy. It’s so lit,” he said.

He also opened up about their eventual nuptials in a recent GQ interview, telling the magazine that while they don’t really have much in the way of plans, the wedding is “definitely going to happen, for sure.”


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Resort 2019 Trend: Next Wave

Contemporary designers channeled a playful surfer vibe for resort with vivid colors, tie-dye prints and Neoprene.
Styled by Emily Mercer
Photographs by Erik Tanner
Makeup by Amanda Wilson using Fenty Beauty
Hair by Siobhan Benson
Model: Reece Perkins at The Society

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Resort 2019 Fashion Trend: Poppy Plaids

Colorful stripes, alone or crossed to form squares, added graphic verve to contemporary collections for resort.

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Resort 2019 Accessories: A Bright Idea

Accessory designers tuned into color for resort, seeing the season through rose-colored glasses — green, purple, blue and yellow ones, too.

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Men’s Spring 2019: Flying Colors

The men’s collections for spring skew young, vibrant — and very spiffy. A plethora of tailored elements mingle with explosive color and touches of Nineties raver.

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2019 Mercedes-Benz CLS: A Move Toward Electrification

The third-generation CLS has the strong lines, powerful engine and luxury flair you’ve come to expect. But with its EQ Boost, Mercedes finally takes a small step toward electrification. Dan Neil reports
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Mariano and who else? Looking ahead to the 2019 Hall of Fame Class

Now that the 2018 crop is in, we shift our focus forward. Mariano Rivera is a lock, but will other first-timers join him? And what about Barry Bonds and Roger Clemens?
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Kanye to launch Yeezy basketball shoes in 2019

Kanye West, whose Yeezy line has primarily focused on making lifestyle sneakers, revealed in a tweet Friday that there will be a Yeezy basketball shoe in 2019.
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Gigi Hadid and Misty Copeland Star in Pirelli’s 2019 Calendar

Gigi Hadid, Pirelli Calendar 2019Gigi Hadid returns to the annual Pirelli Calendar for a different role.
She, American Ballet Theater principal Misty Copeland, French model and actress Laetitia Casta, and Ozark star…

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Get Smart

Dressing up again — in easy, laid-back tailoring — was a key message of the men’s shows, and a riposte to the streetwear juggernaut.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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A.F. Vandevorst To Present Spring 2019 Collection at Milan’s White Fair

Belgian label A.F. Vandevorst will be the special project of the upcoming edition of Milan-based trade show White, running Sept. 21-24.
The brand won’t only present its spring 2019 collection to buyers and press at the fair’s Tortona 27/Superstudio Più location, but will also celebrate its 20th anniversary with a special installation at the Tortona 31/Archiproducts venue. Here, A.F. Vandevorst will also operate a pop-up show selling limited edition ready-to-wear and accessories.
Putting the focus on Belgian creativity, White will host in the same Tortona 31/Archiproducts area “The Belgian Focus,” a special project developed in collaboration with Flanders DC, a no-profit organization founded by the Flemish government to boost the business of the region’s economy. Through the partnership, seven emerging companies, – including sustainable underwear specialist Ophelia Lingerie, printed textile maker Marlène Madou, footwear brand Morobé, bag label Lies Martens, jewelry house Studio Collect, as well as ready-to-wear firms Mooiloop and Helder Antwerp, – will showcase their creations in Milan.
The next edition of White will also see the participation of Fiorucci, which, as special guest of the trade show, will present its spring 2019 lineup in a dedicated area at the Tortona 27/Superstudio Più venue.

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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Top Men’s Trends for Spring 2019

First came dad sneakers — and now the so-uncool-they’re-cool jeans to match.

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Theory Men’s Spring 2019

Well-known for his take on creating timeless wardrobe pieces with a cool minimalistic twist, Theory’s Martin Andersson’s spring collection keeps building on the same principles it has for the few past seasons: mobility and innovation. 
“We asked ourselves, who is the Theory guy, and concluded that he’s into travel,” Andersson said at the brand’s spring presentation.
A capsule collection focusing on the idea of mobility and travel — packable seam-sealed blazers, travel Mac coats, water-resistant shirts and even a tracksuit — were all designed to be worn from the office straight to the airport.
Andersson has a knack for giving wardrobe staples a cool, minimalist élan via color and cut. His spring palette spanned forest greens, navy, khaki and bright pops of electric yellow and pink that were inspired from Dan Flavin’s light installations at Dia: Beacon.
A standout were the khaki pieces, such as khaki chinos with a contrast waistband paired with a bright pink sweater — a perfect blend of casual and sporty.

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Gucci to Show Spring 2019 Collection at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris

PALACE BOUND: Gucci revealed on Monday that its spring 2019 collection will be presented at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris on Sept. 24 at 9 p.m. The Italian fashion house said this is the first time the location will host a runway show.
Le Palace, located at 8 Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, served for years as a nightclub, drawing members of the fashion and music industries as well as an underground culture.
“The Théâtre Le Palace resonates with the vision of the house as it is a venue that gave life to a (sub)culture that has inspired young generations up until today,” said a statement from Gucci.
This is a one-off show for Gucci in Paris and marks the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele.
Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites. Photographed and directed by Glen Luchford, it depicts Gucci-clad rebels occupying a university campus, passionately challenging the establishment and asking for change. Luchford’s black-and-white photos are inspired by the bold French Nouvelle Vague imagery of the late Fifties and Sixties and by radical filmmakers François

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Borgo de Nor Resort 2019

Borgo de Nor has quickly built a name and a dedicated following around its feminine dresses, with their long, flouncy silhouettes, bold colors and intriguing, surrealist prints.
For its latest resort offering the brand has taken a new direction, sprinkling some equally desirable separates to its offer and reworking some of its dresses for the colder months of the year.
Designers Carmen Borgonovo and Joana de Noronha said the aim was to offer more entry-level price points to their customer, as well as a new, see-now-buy-now element, coinciding with the collection’s retail drops in the winter months.
Signature maxi, ruffled silhouettes were reworked with higher necks and longer sleeves, while the prints – which remained bold and vibrant – were set against a darker color palette of deep reds, emerald greens and blues, evoking a new, autumnal mood.
The design duo continued to explore surrealist art to inspire its prints, producing floral patterns with a more lively spirit and a darker edge.
Among the highlights was an “orchid-leopard print” inspired by a self portrait of surrealist painter, dancer and photographer, Rosa Rolanda, who is pictured with an animal-print orchid on her head.
“When I saw this painting it inspired me to take the idea of a

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Complete Guide to PES 2019 Preorder Bonuses and Collector’s Editions

If you buy something through this post, IGN may get a share of the sale. For more, read our Terms of Use.

Konami’s Pro Evolution Soccer release date is August 24, which means you have plenty of time to figure out which version is right for you. For this year, PES 2019 offers tons of licensed leagues, including Danish Superliga, Portugal’s Liga NOS, Belgium Pro League, Swiss Super League, Scotland’s Ladbrokes Premiership, Superliga Argentine and the Russian Premier Liga, which is a PES 2019 exclusive. There are 9 leagues in total, which should help soften the blow regarding the news earlier this year that PES has lost the Champion’s League license to EA’s FIFA for this year’s edition.

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SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATE:

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Way-too-early 2019 NHL free-agent buyer’s guide

We slot the players into five tiers, and assess their chances of actually reaching the free agent market next July 1.
www.espn.com – NHL

Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2019

Models running wind sprints and stretching in colorful soccer gear on the runway prior to the show created the ideal introduction for Willy Chavarria’s new collaboration with Danish soccer brand Hummel.
The collection was defined by the use of bright colors and long boxy silhouettes in shorts and tops that paid homage to the designer’s main line. His creative use of the Hummel logo and soccer uniform staples such as numbers and insignias turned them into streetwear-infused details.
The collaboration will also serve to offer sponsorships to New York City soccer players with documented and undocumented U.S. citizens offering support to immigrants, another key element of this season for Chavarria.
His spin on soccerwear served as part one of a two-part spring collection.
For his main line, Chavarria said he pulled from Latino culture of the early Aughts on the East and West Coasts. The “baggy silhouettes” from Venice and Culver City were juxtaposed with the “long rise pants tucked into Timberlands” that defined the urban landscape in the Bronx and Harlem in that era.
The nostalgia kicked into high gear with Chavarria’s take on Polo Sport references: upside-down American flags, yellow trenchcoats and the word America printed upside down on the front of sweatshirts.
There was also

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Hugo Spring 2019

It’s always big news in Berlin when Hugo Boss decides to stage an event in the German capital during Fashion Week. Yet the decision to return with Hugo after a hiatus of seven years was primarily driven by the city itself. Not only was Berlin’s techno culture and “creative energy and eclectic street style” a key influence for the collection this season, but “with its very unique mix of fashion, art, music, literature and tech, it’s a good eco-system to take a brand like Hugo to the next level,” Boss chief executive officer Mark Langer told WWD prior to the show.
And what better place to do that than in the original home of techno, Motorwork, a gargantuan industrial space that Hugo transformed into a dark and gritty Nineties rave environment. The decade also figured strongly in the men’s and women’s looks on the runway, especially in terms of the prints based on ripped and collaged Rave posters or period album artwork, and the oversized, wide-shouldered, tailored silhouette for both genders derived from a Nineties Boss archive piece. However, that jacket and coat silhouette and baggy tailored pants were customized with DIY flair. Drawstrings were used to create new volumes and

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Zuhair Murad Resort 2019

Zuhair Murad embarked on a nautical theme while retaining his signature poetry and femininity, including a range of striking prints used across the collection.
With a stronger daywear focus incorporating a sprinkling of luxe ath-leisure pieces, he included nods to Captain Cook and sailor Corto Maltese, plus their discoveries of plants, Gauguin-esque colors and insects around the Southern Seas.
The most sartorial elements were navy blue or black-and-white outfits, like the sharp-shouldered jackets with tailored trousers and skirts. Shards of compass imagery decorated certain looks — in the form of beadwork and sequins on long black or white evening dresses. A bodysuit could be dressed down or up, and a jumpsuit had a sporty take.
These contrasted well with the fluid dresses with elegant patterns reminiscent of multicolored butterflies or hibiscus. Some standouts included the sweeping V-neck dress with pink, black and yellow embroidery evocative of pixilated butterfly wings and the shorter black-and-white dragonfly-like jacquard knit dress.
Fabrics such as leathers, metal cotton tweed and crepe de chine made appearances, too, adding an even wider reach to this rich collection.

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Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Resort 2019

Raf Simons’ playful exploration of Americana continued for resort, which was full of collegiate references, interesting silhouettes such as oversized shoulders and wider arching sleeves, knits, bold Pop and Technicolors, and technical fabrics like Neoprene. It marked the first time a Calvin Klein 205W39NYC resort collection was presented in Paris, shown in the brand’s new headquarters in the city. It’s a vast multifloor space, spanning 15,000 square feet, that was designed by Simons and his longtime collaborator, artist Sterling Ruby. Architectural design was done by Architecture Research Office of New York.
There was a fluidity to the collection, with mostly pieces that can easily be mixed and matched. Take the blue, red and white intarsia knit sweater with the navy marching band pants featuring graphic, colorful piping and cowboy boots; the silhouette pairing a sporty pink tank with a tie-dye accent and a yellow satin skirt with couture airs, or the pink bustier gown worn over a long green turtleneck dress with orange pumps made of basketball material. Men’s wear took a similarly democratic approach.
A vintage sleeping-baglike fabric was morphed into quilted outerwear, while some knitwear was crafted of found yarn. It’s all something old made into something new — on

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Andrew Gn Resort 2019

Andrew Gn wants to bring back black and white in an Internet age obsessed with color.
Like many designers, he has felt under pressure to use bright hues to make his outfits pop for online buyers. But what about those chic wardrobe staples like a white shirt and a little black dress? “It’s very tricky these days — anything which is visually uninteresting is not really salable online,” he said.
For his resort collection, Gn found a compromise of sorts: graphic black-and-white patterns inspired by the Vienna Secession art movement. A black dress with three-quarter-length sleeves featured the geometric motifs at the neckline and hem, while a day dress came in a deconstructed houndstooth print.
A checkerboard pattern was a recurring motif that translated into color, namely in a yellow-and-white cape dress embroidered with an oversized gold brooch motif. And there were still plenty of Instagram-friendly designs, including dresses in a charming narcissus print.
Still, Gn hopes the tide will turn back in favor of darkness.
“There’s only so many colors you can wear, and sometimes you feel safe and protected and more relaxed in black,” he mused. “I still think that black is a very essential part of the wardrobe, and I truly believe

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Acne Studios RTW Spring 2019

From Coco Chanel to Christian Lacroix, designers’ penchant for designing costumes for ballet goes way back.
Acne Studios’ Jonny Johansson, for his part, when approached by a young choreographer after attending one of his dance productions at the Royal Opera House in Stockholm, politely declined when asked to collaborate on a project.
But the designer, while mulling it over, said he started doing some research and “couldn’t get it out of my system.” He processed it here for spring, presenting his take on “the life of a dancer” in four acts. “I didn’t do what I would have done for [the choreographer], but I did do things that I found on the way,” he said backstage.
The collection was one of his strongest yet. Johansson filtered the dance theme through the Seventies mood he’s been exploring of late, with the peak-collared shirts, crafty crochet trims, and weird palette clashing pale green, rust, red and toffee.
Movement was the connecting thread. The designer sent out extralong, skinny pants in a pleated fabric that gathered at the ankles like legwarmers. Minimalist leather pants and trousers with paper-bag waists were worn with leotards, while long-sleeved jersey dresses and seamless knitted bodysuits went under sheer slipdresses.
A fluid coral

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Ji Oh Resort 2019

The Salvation Army is where Ji Oh often finds inspiration for her collections. “You see all this stuff that’s cool but not your size,” she said. “I made it my size by playing with folds, gathering, buttons and tape that’s used in athleticwear.” Her resort collection was definitely not secondhand, but a deconstructed take on her signature shirting done in oversize proportions tucked, gathered and fitted into artful, but wearable shapes. As a whole, the collection was a bit disjointed, but there were covetable pieces to pick out. A roomy asymmetric button-down white shirt was cut to fall from the shoulders and gently folded along the buttons. Tailored men’s-inspired trenches had shoulder cutouts with buckle details and were feminized buy a long, lean cut. A painterly polka-dot shirt worn front to back captured a do-it-yourself spirit in a sophisticated way.

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Nehera Resort 2019

Nehera took to the mountains for resort, offering a reprieve from the frenzy of modern life with an oxygen-infused lineup of earthy-tinged elegance. A bright yellow pantsuit offered a splash of color, the suit jacket buttoned to one side, the front pocket slightly skewed. The same thick, flowing material was used for a long dress with long sleeves that hung past the wrist.
A feather-light cotton material, with thin, light padding, was used for a laced-up top; paired with short, white, lambskin trousers — a chic rendition of thick, wool mountaineer pants of the distant past. Other nods to the theme included thick-soled leather boots, a contemporary and urban version of the hiking boot, as well as patches with vintage versions of the label’s logo with a stylized Edelweiss flower, applied to a navy blue cotton sweater. Completing the outdoor theme was a handmade wicker-basket purse with leather straps, fisherman-style — pulled straight from the past, no adjustments made and rightly so.

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Stella Jean Resort 2019

Flamboyant, colorful and a bit extravagant. The resort season was all about a joyful and happy mood at Stella Jean.
The designer delivered a cute collection featuring a charming balance between masculine and feminine elements.
Mannish suits and workwear-inspired overalls were embellished with unexpected details, such as fringed trimmings and patches of embroidered parrots, while the hyper feminine midi dresses were crafted from mannish striped shirting fabrics.
An energetic Hawaiian tropical pattern developed in different colors was splashed on lightweight robe coats, slightly flared pants and wrap frocks, while a geometric attitude was introduced in the collection via macro gingham cotton used for both logo camp shirts, skirt suits infused with a certain Western feel, as well as chic short jackets matched with flared skirts.
The charming and summery lineup was completed by bijoux developed in collaboration with Italian brand Rosantica and Philippe Model’s cool fringed and beaded sneakers.

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Rachel Zoe Resort 2019

In the seven years since founding her namesake advanced contemporary collection, stylist/designer/media mogul Rachel Zoe hasn’t strayed from her original MO of providing career-girl-meets-party-girl clothes to the aspirational Millennial customer.
She’s succeeded at melding her own boho-meets-Old Hollywood style (with numerous homages to her idol Tom Ford), all the while honing the quality/perceived value balance necessary for the contemporary category (taking her line in-house after its initial Global Brands Group licensing model was a good move).
For resort, her favorite season, Zoe upped her fabric game, playing with black feather-printed fil coupe with gold accents for off-the-shoulder maxidresses and tops and a silver and black snow leopard-printed taffeta for evening suits. Metallics took on a new breadth, because “for me, metallic is, like, its own color group,” she said.
Each successive Rachel Zoe collection sees new iterations of the Seventies-inspired pantsuit, and this season’s inspired tuxedo dressing included double-breasted white bridal alternatives, some piped in rhinestones or tonal chiffon, liquid sequined versions, as well as double-layered-lapel black crepe with white piping that looked and felt rich. In addition to her signature “Rachel” flare trousers, Zoe played with wider-leg and cropped tomboy options.
“I know my girl may not be buying or wearing a full

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Dondup Resort 2019

For its resort collection, the design team at Dondup drew on the house’s denim expertise to build a lineup of fresh silhouettes with a safari flavor. Jeans were pushed slightly into ath-leisure territory, in a show of confidence from a label that has established authority in the denim department. The wide reach of colors included acid washes and a bright green khaki, which was used to fashion a pair of loose, cropped jeans with one pleat in the middle of each side.
Jungle patterns appeared on cinched dresses and a dressy jacket and shorts combination — also cinched, but with pockets. For shine, the label offered lightweight track suit bottoms, hugged at the waist and ankles by drawstrings. There was a jacket in the same material hung straight to the thighs, sleeves pushed over the elbows — fitting the unique style offered by the upscale and cosmopolitan Italian label.
Anchored with a flagship store in Milan on Via della Spiga, Dondup expanded its web site last year and is gearing up for development abroad.
 

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Unravel Resort 2019

Ben Taverniti channeled the upbeat athletic fashion vibe of the summer issues of Nineties fashion magazines, working total-look outfits in pop monochromatic colors.
The designer used membrane fabrics and drawstrings to add volume, mixing silks, leathers and French terry.
Mirroring the men’s spring 2019 collection were the fusions of streetwear classics on outerwear, including a graphic hybrid black denim jacket spliced with a pale gray anorak, and performance popovers. He also added some dresses, though, catering to demand from retailers, including a pretty blue pleated silk polyester bustier style.
In the mix were cool hybrid knitted hoodies with contrast mesh uppers; distressed white denim with gold piping; voluminous colored cargo pants tricked with drawstrings, and body-con athletic ruched mini-dresses and bodysuits with racer necklines.
Some of the daring palette mixes like hot pink and red recalled Eighties Yves Saint Laurent with a fun couture, disco vibe infusing some of the looks including the red-and-white striped pussy bow blouse paired with high-waist bleached denim with rips and scrunchy colored nylon boots.

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Katharine Hamnett Men’s Spring 2019

The designer worked a mix of street, tailored clothing and some old favorites into this fully organic and sustainable collection. One of fashion’s sustainable clothing pioneers — she was demanding organic cotton long before most — her voice has a new resonance in this age of sustainability.
She’s even brought back her 1983 “Choose Life” slogan, which she plastered on a hoodie for spring. “The anti-abortion lobby nicked it — and now we’re nicking it back,” said Hamnett, who originally came up with the slogan as an antibattle, no-nukes cry in the Thatcher-ite era. A pink sweatshirt with the slogan “No More Fashion Victims” was another archive revival.
Hamnett’s mix included a magnified molecule pattern by the artist Jeffrey Pine on cotton denim trousers, boxy silk shirts and logo sweatshirts. She also made breezy button-front shirts using organic cotton muslin from Switzerland, and was particularly proud of the softness of the fabric.
The designer worked organic linen into a roomy baby blue Zoot suit and brought back a pair of faded flared jeans, the streetwear of the Seventies.

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Giambattista Valli Resort 2019

“I really believe now, more than ever, in the mix of cultures and being open to other cultures,” said Giambattista Valli who likes the idea of a muse who “You can’t place geographically; they can come from all over the world.”
Taking this nomadic state of mind, with signature florals and the brand’s clear sense of femininity the linking thread, highlights ranged from a day-to-night black sequin pantsuit with pink floral embroidery to a flower-embroidered boucle coat with fringed trims.
The delicate workmanship continued on a charming dress in a mix of Chantilly lace and macrame embroidered with lamé thread. Perfect for a summer tea party was an ivory dress embroidered with Indian “tree of life” symbols mixed with Chantilly lace and prints based on Japanese chrysanthemums.
The designer’s fledgling sports line had also blossomed, with among new pieces beach caftans and a tracksuit in an overlay of point d’esprit lace. More elaborate styles included a track top in a patchwork of Japanese chrysanthemums printed on nylon mixed with graphic bands of Chantilly lace.
Valli said the collection was aimed at women of all generations, from young ladies to Lee Radziwill.
“It’s important in this Millennials-hysterical moment to look at what youth is today; youth

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Hermès Men’s Spring 2019

Véronique Nichanian showed a younger, sexier side to the Hermès man.
The designer continued with the athletic references, her take on the elevated lifestyle. The tailored jogging pant added to the man-on-the-move mood, revisited in different colors including light yellows blended with a sharply tailored blazer. The tennis-style short shorts added to the retro athletic undertone of the collection.
The on-trend three-button leather suit in a light shade of stone, worn without a shirt, showed a new sensuality.
Adding to details like the prints and the draping of the clothing, the collection’s color palette, with the combination of shades moving from saturated tones to pastels, was beautiful.
An enlarged camouflage print on a sweatshirt had a painterly Cubist feel, with hippy-luxe tie-dye bags playing off the collection’s bright colors.
Also standout were the silky blousons with side zippers, at times gathered at the back, and a look combining a bottle-green track pant with a bold blue and white side stripe and a super-thin graphic sweater with a zipper.
The elegant fine knits with ripple accents or python effects were  dreamy in a collection that exuded pure luxe fashion.

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Sacai Spring 2019

Chitose Abe set out to defy pre-conceived notions about clothes — for men and women — and she succeeded with a collection that was a color-packed mosaic of traditional tailoring, Native American blankets and nature-inspired designs from Hollywood tattoo artist Dr. Woo. These conceptual collections are loaded with risk: In the wrong hands they can look pretentious or sloppy – not to mention unwearable – but in Abe’s nimble fingers, Wow!
Her glorious hybrids included a jacket that was part tailored pinstripe, part army green anorak; blankets that morphed into kilts – and vice-versa – and a one-sleeve fisherman knit sweater. Oversized jackets and coats, meanwhile, zipped up and down to create different shapes and volumes.
Abe worked with Pendleton, better known for its Southwest American blankets, on pieces such as anoraks, trousers, long pleated dresses and capelets that were adorned with the traditional geometric patterns. The brand also worked with Nike on color-blocked, double swoosh sneakers that captured the whimsical mood of the collection and will make their shop-floor debut in January.
Woo’s delicate tattoo designs were re-born as embroideries, with birds, bugs and nature-inspired motifs adorning pieces including a cobalt blue button-front coat, two-tone satin baseball jackets and a shrunken pink

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Junya Watanabe Man Spring 2019

Forward, march! Looks with a military edge have been striding across the Paris runways, although they’re more of the Boy Scout than the Général de Gaulle variety, with lots of knee-length shorts, flak jacket/fishing vest hybrids (a major trend on the men’s runways) and fresh takes on camouflage.
Junya Watanabe charged ahead with the idea for his latest collection, which unfurled against a backdrop of a long, slightly droopy, army tent and to some foot-tapping military tunes, including the theme song from “The Bridge on the River Kwai.”
Looks included pinstripe shirts, gingham or plaid jackets with bright camouflage patches on the elbow, cropped cargo jeans and skinnier cotton trousers, too. To-the-knee shorts were done in traditional suiting patterns, while models wore vests dotted with pockets large and small. One of those vests even had what looked like a solar panel and an iPad pocket. Other bags, large and small, were slung across the chest or back in primary shades of red, blue or yellow.
While bright camouflage – we get the oxymoron – may have been the prevalent pattern, it certainly wasn’t the only one: The collection ended with a flurry of T-shirts, printed with thick or thin stripes, yellow and green fruits,

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424 Men’s Spring 2019

In his debut official showing to the press, Los Angeles-based streetwear designer Guillermo Andrade wanted to talk about more than just fashion. Referencing what he described as a decaying interpretation of Americana, Andrade sought to question the American Dream in the context of current events — as a Guatemalan immigrant to the U.S., he has firsthand experience of situations similar to those that have hit the headlines in recent weeks — and the prevailing preppy vision of American ideals.
One hoodie featured a blurred print of an abandoned Detroit school with the Stars and Stripes turned upside down in the foreground. Another theme showed haunting pictures of a decaying theater in a dusty color palette inspired by Detroit.
The basics — printed T-shirts, simple yet well executed hoodies, denim items — were stonewashed or given a hand-painted feel that transmitted the same message in a more subtle fashion.
Elsewhere, Andrade brought in new shapes and techniques for spring that have been enabled by producing certain pieces — a black leather shirt, another in black silk, pinstripe drawstring pants and matching worker’s shirt that are as close as he would like to get to suiting, or quirkier 3-D-printed silk chiffon check pants — in

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Ambush Spring 2019

Yoon Ahn took Ambush to the beach for spring, considering waves and forms, but also its meditative reach.
“On the surface level, it’s beachwear, something easy,” she noted, surveying models dressed in knitted crop tops, roomy trousers and wetsuits.
But this is a label that established itself by bending familiar references to give them new scope, and here was beachwear suitable for the streets. Oversize cotton and linen shirts and trousers, with thin, ivory cords dangling from waists, contrasted with body hugging wetsuits. Working with neoprene for the first time, the designer said she enjoyed pairing the wetsuits with knits and leaving them off the shoulders, arms hanging down the sides.
Jewelry, which has ebbed slightly as the label’s clothing offer expands, remained prominent, thanks to the introduction of pearls, fat and round, sometimes in large drops. Strands were knotted on wrists, with dangling gold drops at the tips, adding dimension to the feminine touch in the coed lineup. The traditional Hawaiian lei was recast in metal and charms included inflatable animals, also in metal.
Standouts included light puffer coats that stretched down like skirts with double layered front panels, in plum or safety yellow—bring your sleeping bag to the beach, was her message,

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Emilia Wickstead Resort 2019

The designer had Nouvelle Vague cinema in mind and, in particular, the searing, intense colors of the sets on films such as “The Umbrellas of Cherbourg” and of the elegant shapes and drapes of the actors’ costumes. “I wanted the collection to be experimental, cheerful — and exciting,” said Wickstead.
Wickstead is known for her high collars, full skirts and clean lines and they were out in force, but with a retro French Riviera feel. There was a jaunty, tricolor gown cinched at the waist, a fluid red dress with ruching on the sleeves and at the hips and a short aqua one with full, smocked sleeves. A gold lace dress was as glam as it gets, and the only accessories missing from it were a dry martini and a cat-eye flick.
Wickstead put a spiffy spin on some everyday looks, too: White denim pieces had rose-colored stitching while a flower-print dress and matching coat had patterns inspired by the curtains and wallpapers of the Nouvelle Vague era. Both were made from a featherweight raincoat fabric, and suited to women whose summer backdrop is more Côte de Yorkshire than Côte d’Azur.

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2019

With all of the week’s obsessions with everything from the new brand of streetwear to  wild prints and neons and Eighties and Nineties nostalgia, Giorgio Armani proved a welcoming relief from the trend chasing.
This was the Maestro in his element, a moment of softness and simplicity, taking the audience to a far-off place. The super-elegant collection – centered around the double-breasted jacket – catered to the languid lifestyle of a global nomad traveling around the world, pulling on myriad references but with a cohesiveness and coziness to his wardrobe.
Playing with proportions, the designer channeled an elegant gentleman – or at times gentleman farmer – off duty, albeit interpreted through an urban lens, with a palette of mineral colors. With straw hats, fedoras and leather espadrilles among the accessories, Armani focused on his signature super-soft constructions, from gaucho-style oversized pants worn with stitched leather waistcoats over long-sleeved T-shirts to suede safari jackets, printed silk pajamas with digitalized ikat-style prints and those double-breasted jackets, most with peak lapels and all in the relaxed silhouette the designer made iconic.
A look combining crisp cotton pants worn with suspenders and patterned knitwear was another pure Eighties Armani moment, but felt timeless.
Even the unconstructed double-breasted linen suits

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Spring 2019

FIRST PRADA: “Any time spent in Italy is well spent,” said American actor Nick Robinson at his first Prada show, although for the moment his time in the country was limited to the Italian designer’s event. His summer included “traveling a couple of weeks in the Northwest [of the U.S.], a beautiful area, with as many adventures as I can, but I have no plans yet — I just want to be spontaneous.” Prada tapped Robinson for its most recent 365 campaign, and the actor, seen in Greg Berlanti’s 2018 film “Love, Simon,” said attending the show was “a rare, unique experience,” as he rarely attends fashion shows. “It’s such a fascinating world, and whenever I get the opportunity, I usually take it.”
American actor and singer Algee Smith, also in Prada’s campaign, was equally star-struck. “This is my first show, I’m super excited.” He said that shooting the campaign — his first ever — was “nothing like I expected, we were in a warehouse and there was such an adrenaline rush…” The artist said his next album is coming out, as well as the movie “The Hate U Give,” expected to be released in October. Directed by George Tillman Jr.

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Canali Men’s Spring 2019

For his first collection at Canali, Hyun Wook Lee evolved the storied sartorial tradition of the brand with good taste and sophistication—and an impressive color palette that spanned from powder pink and ice gray to brick red and deep ocean blue. He called the collection “Lui,” or “Him” in English, and presented it at Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology, dividing it in four sections: Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration.
In a nod to comfort, Equilibrium blended formal and casual wear, with sartorial wool, linen and silk blends used in sportswear. The designer re-elaborated the Canali name with a graphic play as an all-over print on the cotton-linen button-up shirts and the silk ties.
In the Dynamism room, colors were bolder, ranging from green to burnt sienna. The button-up shirts were styled as jackets, and cotton chinos were worn under jersey knits and over sneakers in a houndstooth fabric.
In the third section, Steadiness – which may also serve as Canali’s mantra, as the company stays the course without treading too far from its core values and without alienating its existing customers – blazers were feather-light and deconstructed to only two layers of canvas.
The lineup in the Inspiration room was meant to point

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MP Massimo Piombo Men’s Spring 2019

Gearing up for his debut collection as creative director of Italian retailer OVS’ men’s line for the fall 2019 season, Massimo Piombo for his namesake line stayed on course with a compact collection of silhouettes and assembling a cocktail of references from around the globe.
The designer layered old school blazers over vibrant cotton tunics in printed fabrics hailing from far-flung destinations like South Africa and Sri Lanka. Playing on contrasts, a traditional check was used on a technical coat, while a black raincoat was cut from a pure mohair cloth typically used for suiting.
Offering a more bohemian direction were tonal looks pairing a vibrant red and black striped spin on a cricket jacket with a patterned silk scarf worn on the waist, like a cummerbund, and a navy blazer with a striped Scandinavian marine knit or a yellow silk shirt — looks capturing the distinctive panache and sense of color for which Piombo is known.

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Resort 2019

Inspired by all things Eighties, from The Stone Roses to the Second Summer of Love, Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton delivered a resort collection that incorporated the era’s high-shine with their signature sporty, glam-rock aesthetic.
Sickly sweet pastel pink, blue and green ruched skirts and tops reminded Bregazzi of the Peace Movement, while glitter-ball sequinned dresses brought back memories of disco queens.
“Everything was easy and casual, you could dress however you wanted and no one would be documenting it on social media,” Bregazzi recalled.
A sense of ease and a focus on form could be felt throughout the collection. Fuss-free dresses, trench coats and asymmetric skirts featured elasticized details, hidden zippers or drawstring cords to adjust for all body shapes, while silk devoré dresses could be transformed into more form-fitting styles using net overlays.
Elsewhere, the design duo introduced  prints, as in an ethnic pattern on laid-back knitted jumpers, a laser print graphic on bicolor dresses and a hazy floral print on ruched jersey dresses.
To bring the Eighties forward to the present, the duo focused on mash-up styles, adding sportswear and more classic silhouettes to the mix. A white shirt with a nylon drawstring waist attachment and a black silk dress with puffy tracksuit sleeves were among the standouts.

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Victoria Beckham Resort 2019

In her 10th anniversary year, Beckham is aiming to increasingly connect with her customer, listening closely to what she’s asking for, and hoping to cater to her everyday dressing needs. The designer was animated during a walk-through at her new headquarters in west London, talking about how much fun she had with guests during a recent trunk show at Scott’s restaurant on Mount Street. She said the show really got her thinking about “what my customer wants and likes, and about what I can give her.”
The collection was filled with glammed-up everyday silhouettes and the clean lines Beckham loves so much. There was an abstract cowhide print on a long white silk dress, and cream and red versions of the navy, buckle-neck blue dress with the slashed sleeves that Beckham wore to the royal wedding last month. She’s planning a limited run of those — by popular demand from customers — which will land in stores next month.
There were snappy, tailored wool gabardine suits, raw Japanese denim worked into a vest and a fabulous trench, and “a good, well-fitting pair of leather trousers,” which the designer said is not so easy to find these days. There was also a lineup

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A.L.C. Resort 2019

Andrea Lieberman is in the midst of celebrating the 10th anniversary of her collection and opening a slew of stores. She felt it was a good moment to take stock. “It felt really natural to look at the codes of the brand and what we set out to do when we first started, and that was to make everything really easy,” she said during a preview of her resort collection. “It’s great for pre-spring to be easy and versatile and great wardrobe pieces that are very real.”
There was no better way to describe the inventory in the lineup. Much of it was pared-down and classic — the perfect khaki trench, the perfect blazer with a bit of a curved hip, the blue button-down shirt with sleeves engineered to bunch just right. There were chic-ed up tracksuits and skinny leather pants, all very down to earth but cut with sophistication, nothing boring. On that note, while Lieberman stayed grounded, she was sure to offer a few bright, party pieces, such as a red wrap coat and a spare orange knit dress with a high slit that was cut as tastefully as a dress that clung to every curve possibly could be.

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Merlette RTW Resort 2019

The ability of a fashion brand to grow slowly, without pumping out overtly trendy but continually refreshing silhouettes over the period of a few years while generating sales is an impressive feat in this day and age. Designer Marina Cortbawi’s line of roomy cotton silhouettes for Merlette, offered with thoughtful, smaller details each season, is an example of this type of brand. For resort, Cortbawi infused subtle “non-print” print into her otherwise solid lineup through a calla lily line drawing while adding hand-embroidered details to her ever-evolving line of easygoing, cotton attire. Although her customer stated they didn’t want a print, her artful Ellsworth Kelly, Robert Mapplethorpe and Georgia O’Keeffe-inspired flower was so subtle, even when embroidered on a caftan, that it fit just right.
For instance, her billowy tiered or smocked tops and dresses were given with gold handwoven stitching onto more updated, boxy shapes. Double-V eyelet tops with pintucking, Italian tumbled cotton dresses in navy and coral colored frocks with tie details also made for nice newness to the collection. Although there was a lot of newness, the pieces felt at home with Merlette’s unpretentious, resorty DNA, where fabrics are the forefront of design. For instance, two of Cortbawi’s most

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I’m Isola Marras Resort 2019

Country inspiration meets Nineties’ dance references in the young and fun I’m Isola Marras collection.

For resort, creative director Efisio Marras combined more classic fabrics, patterns and silhouettes with neon tones and street influences in a versatile lineup, which perfectly embodies the eclectic nature of contemporary city girls. They can easily pick a romantic maxidress with a cotton eyelet bustier detail for a summer garden party and pack a dégradé multicolor cardigan and HotPants with a matching top on a cow motif for a weekend in Ibiza.

Along with delivering a range of floor-length frocks in several patterns, from rustic checks to spike prints, Marras also crafted an interesting scratched denim for an oversized suit and pants with coated yellow inserts, as well as cotton flee for comfortable and cool pieces, such as baggy shorts worn with a matching coat showing a chic damask panel on the back.

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‘Kingdom Hearts III’ Gets January 2019 Release Date

“Kingdom Hearts III” will arrive on January 29, 2019. Square Enix confirmed the launch date in a tweet early Sunday morning. The news comes almost thirteen years after the previous entry in the beloved Disney / Square Enix franchise. We’ve announced the release day for KINGDOM HEARTS III ahead of E3 at the KINGDOM HEARTS Orchestra […]

Variety

SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATE:

Qasimi Men’s Spring 2019

Khalid Qasimi’s nomad packed up his tent and continued to wander — and what a journey it was. Filled with chunky V-neck sweaters, roomy layers and laid-back, tailored separates, the collection was a refreshing alternative to the glut of streetwear on so many European catwalks.
Qasimi has always been a romantic, looking to history and human relationships for his bohemian-edged collections: This season his washed ikat prints on boxy shirts were inspired by maps and markers inside old archaeological guides while heartbreaking slogans, such as “We are so different now,” appeared on shirts or the edges of jackets.
The designer likes to refer to his collections as “a broad range of wardrobe staples for the constant traveler,” but they are so much more. Colored, woven ties — like bracelets sold on Europe’s street corners and beaches — appeared as drawstrings on oversize hoodie tops, fluid, tracksuit-style trousers, or as skinny belts cinching the back of loose navy or khaki tailored jackets.
The designer worked heavy, washed denim into oversize trousers with low-slung waists, and plied an equally hefty workwear cotton fabric into patchwork trousers and bombers in shades like cornflower, buttercup, olive and stone. Those colors came from a bigger palette that also took

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Daniel Fletcher Men’s Spring 2019

For spring 2019, Daniel Fletcher reworked the classic suit through his personal lens. He expressed his frustrations with the more restrictive business side of running his label with a collection featuring classic tailoring that was shredded, corseted and had dark overtones of a debaucherous weekend.
‘I have this feeling of restraint because there are so many restrictions with running my label that I wanted to break free,’ Fletcher said. ‘I like this idea of this businessman who’s gone out for a wild weekend after an 80-hour week. I wanted it to feel sadistic like where did he end up on this Friday night out.”
He subverted traditional menswear including suit jackets, slim trousers, shirts and leather jackets in its finishes – an exposed lining hanging out of the suit, slashes on the backs of the legs and rope detailing that bound seams together. There was a strong sense of angst and a need for freedom in the collection, which was juxtaposed with a poetic restraint – corsets atop shirts and wrapped around suits, as well as leather halter-tops that fitted like a second skin.
Fletcher collaborated with artist Caitlin Keogh for the prints seen on his silk shirts, featuring female torsos bound by

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New York Men’s Dates to Move to June in 2019

Don’t get too attached to the July dates for New York Fashion Week: Men’s — they’re changing.
Starting next year, the Council of Fashion Designers of America will shift the dates for the spring men’s shows to the first week in June. This will not only coincide with the fledgling New York women’s resort season, but will also allow American designers to show before their European counterparts.
London has historically kicked off the spring season with shows that start this year on Saturday. That’s followed by Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan and Paris. For six seasons, NYFW: Men’s has brought up the rear with shows in mid-July.
But a successful mega, 10-day, dual-gender fashion week this past February has prompted the shift starting in 2019.
“The July timing is problematic for a lot of brands,” said Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “So this will be the last NYFW: Men’s in July.”
In February, he said, the men’s shows will once again be timed to run on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday before the women’s calendar starts on Thursday. ”It worked really well,” he said. But the spring shows will now start before London.
“The designers are really

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Lafayette 148 Resort 2019

Creative director Emily Smith’s efforts to take Lafayette 148 into more youthful territory hasn’t gone unnoticed. She’s injected the brand with a sense of polished ease, balancing staple shirting with subtle updates against more fashion-driven statements that are still approachable.
She’s long mined inspiration from art, architecture and travel, this season focused on Sonia Delaunay, a Ukrainian-born French artist in the Twenties who also held roles as a costume designer and automobile designer. There was a gloss of Art Deco references with a fresh approach. Smith worked Delaunay’s love of geometric motifs into circular patterns decorating flirty dresses and stripes onto separates.
The big story here was the “third layer” item — lightweight outerwear that topped off looks without the weight. A silk trench in oversize check was both playful and cool, while an embossed leather duster maintained effortless sophistication styled over office essentials. The linear lines of one bluish gray coat were marked with hand-embroidered chains mirroring the contrast stitching of a core black and white group. The ease of the outerwear translated to other categories, too, namely boyfriend shirting and soft-tailored suiting — in particular, a ruby red set was the perfect holiday outfit for a girl who wants chic

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Tadashi Shoji Resort 2019

“Don’t be restricted. Keep moving,” read Tadashi Shoji’s notes for their mostly sporty resort collection. Athletic references made for fresh daytime updates to the usually embellished evening brand aesthetic. There were dresses with graphic scuba cutwork, mesh sleeves, perforated knits and shoulder cutouts; two of the best included pleated skirts. A white lace number with a ribbed knit outline that resembled an athletic jacket also made for a fun, younger offering. When it came to logomania — full-length on longer evening gowns and in athletic band details — the brand should have stuck to its show notes and moved right along.

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The V&A Taps Dame Mary Quant for 2019 Retrospective

LONDON — Mary Quant, the queen of mod known for popularizing the miniskirt, is to be the focus of a show at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London next year.
The retrospective, which is set to open in April 2019 and will run until March 2020, will be the first international exhibition about the designer in 50 years, and will spotlight her work between 1955 and 1975.
The museum is also making an open call to the public for one-off designs from Quant’s Bazaar boutique, pieces from her 1963 “Wet” collection and clothes made by the public with the designer’s 1964 Butterick patterns.
The exhibition aims to highlight the 88-year-old Quant’s experimental approach and mod aesthetic, which was instrumental in shaping the Swinging Sixties scene.
“She freed women from rules and regulations and from dressing like their mothers. This long-overdue exhibition will show how Mary made high fashion affordable, and how her youthful, revolutionary clothes made British street style the global influence it remains today,” said Jenny Lister, curator of the exhibition.
Pieces will be drawn from the V&A archives, Quant’s personal collection and loans from the public. The retrospective will showcase more than 200 objects, including films, sketches, photographs and personal testimonies, illustrating the

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Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2019

Who are the Salvatore Ferragamo customers? That’s the question the brand is trying to answer as it renovates its image.
For resort, women’s creative director Paul Andrew and men’s design director Guillaume Meilland worked together to define a cohesive and coherent wardrobe able to celebrate the brand’s heritage and at the same time to make the fashion house relevant for contemporary customers.
Rather than tapping too aggressively into current trends, they managed to develop a sophisticated, elegant dress code, which looked fresh and modern yet still sober and discreet.
Workwear served as source of inspiration for a women’s oversized denim trenchcoat punctuated by contrasting stitches, as well as for a flared skirt embellished with grommets and utilitarian pockets. This was paired with a sleeveless caban crafted from a precious double-face cashmere, which was also used for a chic asymmetric slipdress trimmed with blanket-like fringes at the bottom.
The impeccable sartorial attitude of the men’s suits, worked in lightweight constructions, also returned in the women’s range with slightly oversized blazers worn with tapered pants, which were cropped at the ankle to show the new Vara booties.
A sense of ease echoed in a group of cotton and linen pieces in classic safari-inspired colors. This included a men’s shirt

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Sonia Rykiel Resort 2019

Julie de Libran is saying it with flowers for the cruise season. The designer’s collection for Sonia Rykiel revolved around a botanical theme, with floral prints lending her Seventies-tinged urban wardrobe a poetic charm.
The lineup played off her signature masculine-feminine contrasts. A pleated mini dress with an all-over lily of the valley print was toughened up with matching platform boots and a black leather donkey jacket, while appliqué leather blooms crept along the collar of a raw canvas sleeveless coat.
Men’s tailoring inspired a series of Glen plaid pieces such as a coat outlined in colorful piping details that recalled founder Sonia Rykiel’s penchant for turning clothes inside out. Outerwear reflected a utilitarian streak, with hybrid items such as a peacoat with red nylon puffer jacket sleeves.
De Libran worked the floral effects into the house’s signature knits, which included a blue openwork sweater embroidered with mimosas made of tiny yellow beads. Knitwear textures ran the gamut from a fluffy tweed-effect T-shirt dress to a preppy camel raincoat — perfect for channeling Ali MacGraw in “Love Story.”

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Pringle of Scotland Resort 2019

Fran Stringer, women’s design director at the Scottish brand, was in a playful mood this season, channeling sports teams and British youth tribes of the Seventies and Eighties with a host of punchy colors, patterns and preppy details.
Highlights of this energetic collection included a hand-knitted cricket sweater, artisanal tie-dye twinsets in juicy fruit shades and oversize cashmere hoodies — including one in searing hot pink — meant for layering under lightweight summer trenches.
Stringer also worked bright colorblocks and chopped-up argyle patterns into sweaters, all in the name of youthfulness, timelessness and versatility. “I want the collection to transcend the seasons,” she said.

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Tanya Taylor RTW Resort 2019

Designer Tanya Taylor is well-known for her use of color and painterly prints, so it is easy to see how her resort collection was inspired by two recent exhibitions, one by David Hockney at MoMA and one by Josef Albers at the Guggenheim. Color and graphic prints are home base for Taylor, but for resort she wanted to zero in on the idea of “key pieces” for her customer.
Taylor’s “key pieces” are anything but basic and come in the form of a deep purple mohair sweater with boatneck collar; a pony skin leopard print sheath dress; a printed long-sleeve pajama-style button-up dress with white piping; soft hammered satin dresses and skirts in saturated green and purple prints, and gray cashmere sweaters with sheer black lace cutout details.
Taylor sees these clothes as seasonless — meant to be mixed and matched, and to her point, she blended in easy flowy blouses and dresses in neutral black and cream prints and a few denim pieces like overalls that felt like a fresh way to cut all the color.
Extended sizing, Taylor noted, was a booming part of her business. The designer introduced it in pre-fall 2017 and it’s been steadily growing since. “We pick

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Marissa Webb Resort 2019

Every Marissa Webb collection begins with a man. It’s not surprising as the designer has cultivated a masculine-feminine narrative.
This season began with a deep dive into Google and an image of an effeminate male wearing a bleached jumper in a Seventies ad. (Possibly a date ad, Webb isn’t quite sure.) It inspired the bleached denim pieces in the collection — a couple of great high-waisted shorts with wide-leg openings, and a shirt jacket and jeans with distressing she does herself with a Dremel tool.
She also searched various names and places like Charlotte Rampling, Lauren Hutton, Thailand and Spain, which would explain the casualness in flirty dresses and suiting and the saturated color palette. Where Webb excels is at the intersection of the hard-soft, structured-fluid spectrum. Casual white Ts were dipped in paillettes, hand-painted floral patterns were cut into short suits, and ruching and ruffles were done in atypical crisp canvas to better maintain shape. Other highlights included feminine-inflected tailoring, like boxy blazers with ruffle sleeves, soft-tailored frayed suiting and leather pants with more leg room.
“Everything stands alone,” Webb said at a preview, adding: “Everything has a casual element, even if it feels dressed up, you can pair it with flats.”

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Veronica Beard RTW Resort 2019

Casual polish is the endgame at Veronica Beard, where sisters-in-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard update American classics with novelty and, for resort, athletic undertones. They looked to the glamour and sexual femininity of the Eighties and early Nineties, delivering a blend of tailoring this season set against casual sportswear and colorful prints.
Elevated takes on suiting included an off-the-shoulder blazer styled with a multichain belt (which, really, would add considerable edge to any outfit) and a red blazer featuring the designers’ take on the double-breasted silhouette. Leather suiting and twinsets with detachable gold chains leaned heavily toward the Eighties, but were toned down with graphic “Veronica” Ts and track-inspired techno knit pants with great recovery.
There was also novelty. To wit: Bold plaids, scarf prints and engineered florals provided a playful visual element while denim featured crystal buttons. The designers also reworked classics like the trenchcoat into a cropped style with athletic stripes, a reversible version with plaid fabric, and into one of their signature dickeys.
With the anticipated opening of two more brick-and-mortar stores by the end of this year, the designers will need to offer as many dickey options as possible to the new customers they’ll be sure

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Fendi Resort 2019

The modern woman’s combination of strength and delicacy served as the main inspiration for this beautiful Fendi resort collection. In keeping with the brand’s latest fall runway show, creative director Karl Lagerfeld continued to define a special wardrobe where sartorial shapes and precise silhouettes were softened by handkerchief embroideries and exquisite, precious details.
Impeccable double-breasted jackets were cinched at the waist with sporty backpack-like closures and matched with cigarette pants showing attached pleated skirts. The latter were also shown in asymmetric kilt-inspired versions, as well in polished midi options, including a linen and silk style featuring the FF logo pattern in a fresh combination of aqua green and white. The look was finished with a matching bomber, an iconic item in a quintessential Fendi wardrobe, which also requires a touch of fur. To wit, the luxurious offering of fur pieces was centered on featherweight styles, spanning from a reversible fox fur vest embellished with a delicate eyelet collar to a shaved mink coat with floral appliqués in sorbet tones.
The hyper-elegant attitude of the ready-to-wear collection echoed in the accessories range. While the metallic cowboy boots introduced and eccentric touch, the bag styles were mainly presented in essential, quite minimal options, such as a Peekaboo X-Lite in

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Gucci Cruise 2019

ARLES, France — If cruise shows are all about transporting the audience, Alessandro Michele deserves the award for the most dazzling spectacle to date in a season thick with powerful imagery.
The Gucci creative director chose the Alyscamps, a Roman necropolis in the southern French city of Arles, as the setting for his show, and took full advantage of the area’s epic history with a nighttime display that transcended space and time with a trove of references ancient and modern.
Clouds of smoke and rows of church candles bathed the open-air space in a Gothic ambience, enhanced by the haunting soundtrack of Claudio Monteverdi’s “Vespers for the Blessed Virgin.”
As night fell and guests including Saoirse Ronan, A$ AP Rocky, Salma Hayek and Christian Lacroix took their places on mirrored cubes, a line of fire ignited down the central alleyway, signaling the start of the show.
The models swept out thick and fast in outfits so intricate, the eye struggled to keep pace. Michele sent out a dizzying 114 looks for women and men, mixing brand signatures — think plaid skirts, floral silk prints and tiger patterns — with outfits designed for fantasy characters ranging from rock stars to 19th-century widows.
Shrouded in velvet dresses and richly

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HP CFO Cathie Lesjak to Retire in Early 2019

Cathie Lesjak, a Hewlett-Packard veteran who as chief financial officer helped steer the company through one of the largest corporate breakups, plans to retire from HP in early 2019.
WSJ.com: WSJD

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Sachin & Babi Resort 2019

Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia have homed in on what works for their special occasion brand. They succeed in easy, unfettered elegance. It took a while to figure out, but they’ve recently been focused on reissuing classic styles in different fabrics and colors, while slowly broadening their silhouette library as not to alienate existing customers.
Resort was an homage to embroidery both subtle and glam. There were sequins galore, on styles spanning jumpsuits and shortened ballgowns that could be paired with wide-leg pants to less formal options like shirtdresses and tracksuits that transition from day to night. The poplin-sequin-mixed shirtdress was one of the more playfully unconventional items, along with a great silver column style featuring a thigh-high slit that opened to reveal built-in shorts.
Less flashy were sleek, spaghetti-strap column gowns that took days to hand-embellish. A red version, for instance, took three seamstresses across three full days to micro-bead before cutting. Sans embroidery, the style has been a bestseller online, so the designers knew there was demand. The same subtle beadwork could be seen on a yellow minidress, youthful as is and made formal and empowering with dramatic detachable bow.
In general, the collection was age-inclusive, speaking to the brand’s aesthetic goal.

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Louis Vuitton Cruise 2019

SAINT-PAUL-DE-VENCE, France — Accustomed to showing his Louis Vuitton collections in the majestic surroundings of the Louvre museum, Nicolas Ghesquière opted for an equally exceptional, but altogether more confidential, art destination for his cruise display on Monday.
Guests including Emma Stone, Jennifer Connelly, Léa Seydoux, Justin Theroux and Ruth Negga trekked up to the southern French hilltop village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence for the show, held at the Fondation Maeght, a private art foundation whose gardens are filled with works by the likes of Alberto Giacometti and Marc Chagall.
Those arriving from the Dior cruise show in Paris appeared to have brought the unseasonal weather with them. Mist shrouded the treetops, giving the venue a melancholic feel enhanced by the haunting live soundtrack that greeted guests at the pre-show cocktail.
Milling about in the Giacometti Courtyard, Grace Coddington sported silk pajamas blending the LV monogram with her signature drawings of cats. It turned out the fashion editor has created a capsule collection of accessories with Ghesquière that is set to hit stores in October.
“We’re very close friends and I love everything he does, so he asked me to work with him, and it was more than a pleasure,” she said. Coddington, who published the original

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