Alexandre Vauthier Couture Fall 2018

Alexandre Vauthier’s mission has always been hooked on a less sacred, more approachable take on couture. But he’s never let go of his passion for the genre’s Eighties heyday, and the codes of the couturier greats.
Here his homage took on a Rue Cambon flavor, with looks pairing black boater hats, tailored jackets, white shirts and black satin bows conjuring a young Inès de La Fressange.
Vauthier backstage described it as a celebration of the savoir-faire of France’s métiers d’art.
“When it’s pleated, it’s Lognon; when there are feathers, it’s Lemarié; when it’s embroidered, it’s Lesage; all the hats are Maison Michel, the jewelry is Goossens,” he said.
Among the most labor-intensive pieces, 1,850 hours of handiwork had gone into the vivid disco gowns embroidered with tiny crystals. They caught the light. But more exquisite were the gleaming, jet-embroidered bustier minidress and a tiered black gown interspersing ruffled lace and sheer panels, a satin ribbon streaming down the front.
Breaking the old-glamour vibe — a little too abruptly — were the baggy fabric boots that resembled cut-off pants, and the tulle-edged PVC minis and skirts.
The craftsmanship — from the dramatic sprays of cock feathers used as shoulder accents or covering a dress, to the gowns

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Alexandre de Betak Auctions Off Personal Art Collection

SELLING UP: Alexandre de Betak is having the mother of all moving sales.
As the fashion show producer prepares to settle into his new Paris home next summer with his wife Sofia Sanchez de Betak and their baby daughter Sakura, he is auctioning off a lifetime’s collection of design objects ranging from a Darth Vader bust to a neon portrait of Gisele Bündchen.
Friends including Antoine Arnault and Natalia Vodianova, Christian Louboutin, Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy, Blanca Li and Bruno Frisoni flocked to Paris auction house Piasa to view the 188 lots that will go under the hammer on March 28 in the sale, titled “Alexandre de Betak, My Parisian Interior Art + Design.”

Alexandre de Betak and Natalia Vodianova 
Courtesy

“This is the first time I’m selling anything. I’ve always collected thinking I would keep things my whole life. There are people who buy shares in order to leave a heritage. I always said I would leave kinetic art and design,” Betak said ruefully.
He started collecting Japanese robots in his teens, later graduating to furniture and kinetic art by the likes of Joel Stein and Marcello Morandini — not to mention lamps, lamps and more lamps. By his own admission, things were getting a

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AMI Alexandre Mattiussi to Unveil Men’s Pre-collection

MISSING LINK: “I see it as a new chapter, we have in place very strong teams for both development and design and are ready to work to this new rhythm,” said AMI’s Alexandre Mattiussi, who, seven years after launching his men’s brand, is entering the pre-collection game.
Mattiussi described the line, which will launch in May, as a “nice midseason wardrobe,” mixing in bestsellers like the label’s outerwear and jersey items.
“It’s about bringing it back to something very masculine and casual, and very easy and light, with denim elements, and playing on khaki with touches of pale yellow and red,” said the designer, who has no plans to launch women’s despite the success of his recent women’s capsule for Le Bon Marché’s global site 24 Sèvres. “I have ideas for women’s wear, but I still like the idea that AMI is a men’s wear brand that is attractive to women who like to go and shop from the men’s line,” he said.
 

A look from AMI’s pre-collection line set to launch in May. 
Courtesy

With merchandise sporting the label’s “Ami de Coeur” logo in demand, the designer, for a capsule slated for early next year, will also be relaunching another logo: his smiley emoticon

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Crowds Flock to Colette for Alexandre de Betak

THE SHOW MUST GO ON: It was Alexandre de Betak’s turn to take the limelight Wednesday evening as guests such as Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Lou Doillon, Jason Wu and Felipe Oliveira Baptista queued patiently at Colette for the star fashion show producer to sign copies of a book – his first – charting his nearly three decades in the industry.
“It’s really good to be recognized for the work rather than anything else, that’s what it’s really about,” said de Betak in a brief aside between signing copies of the tome, “Betak: Fashion Show Revolution,” and embracing friends.
He has also staged a window installation at Colette featuring scenes from fashion shows and video displays, and customized “fashion week survival” products are on sale at the store.
Sofia Sanchez de Betak, chatting with guests in the background and sipping a ginger shot specially concocted by Maisie Café for the occasion, was happy for her husband to be the center of attention. “Obviously I know everything he has done, and I’ve worked a lot on the process of the book but seeing it all together is overwhelming, and I realized again how major he is. He’s not just the guy sleeping next to me every night,”

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Alexandre Plokhov Men’s RTW Spring 2016

Medieval warrior monks might not be everybody’s inspiration, but in Alexandre Plokhov’s universe, they fit right in.
 
“My collection is based on a book I read, ‘The Mongoliad’ by Neal Stephenson. It’s about warrior monks and how each clan is separated by color,” the designer said.
 
That was how Plokhov also structured his show, with groups of black, yellow, red and white. Flowy sheer ponchos, drop-crotch pants and face-painting aside — which admittedly are a lot of styling tricks to overlook — the collection was full of strong directional pieces such as a sleek trench with zipper detailing, and an unconstructed tonal seersucker blazer and a utility-inspired jumpsuit.
 
There was interesting patchwork craftsmanship adorning shirts and pants, showing Plokhov’s ability to show texture within a tonal palette.
 
“I took incompatible material from seasons past for bombers, shorts and sweatshirts,” he said.
 
The return of Plokhov and his unique aesthetic to the runway added a new dimension to NYFW: Men’s.

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