Marilyn Monroe captured Christopher Kane’s imagination for pre-fall, in particular images of the late actress shot by John Vachon in the Canadian Rockies when the actress was filming “River of No Return” in 1953. The designer fused this Hollywood glamour girl aesthetic with his love of diamanté sparkle, flashes of lace and Latex, and the result was an arty, color packed. It was filled with full skirts or midi-dresses with deep V-necks covered in big, scribbled black dots, and jackets with strings of diamanté snaking across the front. Kane built lace into chain mail tops or whipped it into long-sleeved blouses and dresses adorned with white pearl fringe. There was Latex galore, including a feather-light lime green dress with a high collar and diamanté adornments and wacky shoes with inflatable Latex straps. The collection took a surreal turn with octopus-inspired sweaters and skinny dresses with multiple arms and then circled back to Marilyn in the form of a candy pink sweatshirt with thrusting Eighties shoulders, adorned with an image of the actress cuddling a white cat.
TABLE TALK: It’s fair to say designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos take a holistic view of design: The Italian company that makes their bed linen, Once Milano, now makes the napkins and tablecloths for their burgeoning homeware line, while Swarovski, a longtime Peter Pilotto collaborator, has created bejeweled candelabras, and 1882 Ltd., the ceramics brand from the north of England has created the dishes.
On Wednesday night, the two designers debuted the latest additions to their evolving lifestyle collection with homeware products that will be sold exclusively on Matchesfashion.com. Matches cleared out the ground floor space of its Carlos Place town house in London and set an extra-long table for the night’s host Amy Astley, editor in chief of Architectural Digest, and guests including Arizona Muse, Allegra Hicks, Martina Mondadori and Michelle and Rachel Yeoh.
The table was draped in faded, color-blocked linen cloths, plates with swirling patterns and rustic water jugs. Napkins were plain or edged with little fringes, while cutlery was drawn from Sohdu Wasabi. The whole evening had been dreamed up by the designers, including the lush, colored blooms by Fjura that tumbled from fishbowl style vases and the food, from their favorite London restaurant, Black Axe Mangal.
GREEN MACHINES: Stella McCartney, Christopher Raeburn and Bottletop are among the 10 fashion businesses that have been awarded the inaugural CO10 Leadership Award, which recognizes companies that put sustainability at their core.
The award is presented by Common Objective, a network that connects more than 10,000 professionals in the fashion, retail and textile industries to share knowledge and best sustainability practices. It will be awarded virtually in the spirit of sustainability.
The other winners are Osklen, Indigenous, Outland Denim, Mayamiko, Sonica Sarna Design, Ethical Apparel Africa and The Rajlakshmi Cotton Mills.
“The industry has seen an incredible amount of traction over the past year, from increased consumer demand and government engagement, to the abundance of new entrants that focus on sustainability,” said Harold Tillman, former chairman of the British Fashion Council.
He added that the overall CO Leadership Awards are aimed at creating a milestone moment for fashion to champion innovators.
A panel of judges, including representatives from Farfetch, Kering and Vivienne Westwood, selected the 10 winners.
The winners were chosen based on their ability to marry sustainability strategies with commercial ones. The key criteria, according to organizers, were mission, business model, products and services, impact, sustainability roadmap and communication strategy.
Not only will the 10 brands be
LONDON — Ten years after generating buzz with a first collection of eight garments made from military parachute fabric and big ambitions around recycling, Christopher Raeburn is gaining even greater recognition in an industry that is waking up at last to environmental sustainability and responsible design.
As Timberland’s global creative director, the London-based designer sees an opportunity to give his sustainability mission a broader, more global platform, while at his own label, Raeburn has brought on board his brother and fellow designer, Graeme Raeburn, as performance director, a new role.
The brothers are now aiming to push the boundaries of design, material innovation and waste reduction further and to redefine what success means along the way.
“For us, success is not about Raeburn products being in every store or on every street corner, quite the opposite. We want to look at growth in a much more modern way than just incremental numbers,” Raeburn said from his East London studio as he was preparing his fall 2019 show, set for Jan. 6 during London Fashion Week Men’s.
“During our early stages, people would look at our business plans and tell me that I wasn’t ambitious enough. I think I always was, but it’s always been about
IN THE SPOTLIGHT: Queen Elizabeth II has handed honors to a clutch of names in the arts and fashion worlds as part of her New Year’s Honors List 2019. Honorees will receive their awards at Buckingham Palace at various times over the next few months.
Christopher Bailey is among this year’s honorees. Bailey, who served as Burberry’s president and chief creative officer until March, and who had previously been chief executive officer, will receive a CBE, or Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, for his work at the British brand.
This is Bailey’s second royal accolade: He already holds an MBE, or Master of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, which he received in 2009.
Twiggy has also been recognized by the British monarch. The model and Andy Warhol muse whose pixie cut defined the fashion of the Sixties, will be named Dame Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.
TWIGGY LEAVING LONDON AIRPORT FOR NEW YORK WHERE SHE WILL DO PHOTOGRAPHIC MODELLING – 20 MARCH, 1967<br />VARIOUS
Daphne Selfe, Britain’s oldest working model at 90 years old, is being honored for creating opportunities for older women in the modeling industry. She will receive a British
The designer took Tokyo’s dark side as his theme for this racy collection of neon sign colors, and textures and silhouettes that nodded to the city’s myriad sex clubs. The rubberized red lace dress and matching coat encapsulated the dark and slightly sinister mood of the collection, which was shot at night by Laurence Ellis.
Lacy lingerie dresses with barely there, rounded skirts had a Goth feel, as did a see-through black dress layered over a bright purple bra. There were some razor-sharp edges, too, in the form of pointed, jutting lapels on a black, rhinestone-edged satin coat and sporty tailored jacket. Softness came in the form of a two-tone hoodie with “More Baby More” written in iridescent letters across the front and a long and billowy white shirt proclaiming that universal truth: “Sh** Happens.”
During a walk-through, Kane said Tokyo has always offered “endless inspiration for me,” adding that his love of subversion is “never at the expense of the clothes. I want to empower women when they put on my work.”
Canadian men’s designer Christopher Bates will be celebrating his 10th anniversary with a runway show Tuesday night during Toronto Fashion Week at the same time he reveals a deal with Nordstrom as the brand’s exclusive department store partner in Canada.
“Spring/summer 2019 is by far one of my most technically advanced collections and having it launch with such an iconic retailer as Nordstrom is a dream come true,” said Bates.
The spring collection is inspired by vintage tennis and cycling wear and includes a focus on technical fabrics and modern tailoring. Each piece is created with luxury textiles from Italy and include 3-D textured bomber jackets, jersey travel blazers, colorful knitwear and lightweight jackets and coats.
In addition to ready-to-wear, Bates has a bespoke business, working with a master tailor in Toronto to produce suits, tuxedos, jackets and shirts. For five seasons, Bates has partnered with Canadian specialty retailer Harry Rosen on a shoe collection, which will be rolling out from four to 10 stores next year, and he is creating a line of sneakers in collaboration with MTV that will launch next month. He also produces a line of unisex eyewear. He was tapped to create the uniforms for Air Canada that some
Winding down his 17-year tenure at Burberry with a colorful collection that had a streetwise edge, Christopher Bailey was in a “chipper” yet reflective mood before his show.
In a wide-ranging chat, he spoke about his achievements, a few regrets, his future in fashion, and his role in Burberry’s creative transition:
WWD: How did it feel to design your last collection?
Christopher Bailey: It felt poignant. I had a lot of reflection, but I’m so serene with the decision and it just feels right. I feel extraordinarily privileged that I’ve been able to be somewhere that I have loved so deeply for 17 years. I just feel very calm and chipper about it.
WWD: You are under contract until the end of the year. How long will you stay?
C.B.: My last real working day is March 31, when I step down from my role and then I’m in advisory capacity to the board all the way through to December — as and when they need me. It’s clearly formal and contractual, but it’s not like I need to go there every day.
WWD: You stuck with see-now-buy-now for your last show?
C.B.: As I said when we started this see-now-buy-now, we don’t have all the answers
BOTTOMS UP: Christopher Kane brought a taste of his native Scotland to London on Thursday during a Burn’s Night celebration in honor of Robert Burns, who is widely regarded as the national poet of Scotland.
“I’ve always been fascinated by Robert Burns, he was a real rebel, a troublemaker, a complete womanizer and at the same time he had a real love of Scotland,” said the designer, admitting that he’s never met a rebel he didn’t like. “It was also just an excuse to get everyone together and drink for the new year.”
Friends including Edie Campbell, Pam Hogg, Patrick Grant, Jack Guinness and Erdem Moralioglu joined the designer at the London Edition hotel’s intimate Punch room, and they were all decked out in traditional Scottish kilts or tartan trousers. They were treated to music by the band Licence to Ceilidh and whiskey-based cocktails.
Edie Cambell and Christopher Kane
“Just get a whiskey,” said the designer when asked for cocktail recommendations, waving a glass of whiskey on the rocks. Edie Campbell was quick to take his advice, having a sip straight from the bottle, while her friends snapped pictures of her.
It was a welcome break for the designer, who is in high gear
As the uproar continues over sexual harassment in industries stretching from entertainment to media to finance, the fashion world has remained relatively on the sidelines – until now.
On Saturday, The New York Times published a long-rumored story about alleged harassment of male models by the photographers Bruce Weber and Mario Testino. Both men, via statements their lawyers gave to the Times, vigorously denied the allegations made in the story, although Conde Nast and Conde Nast International both said Saturday that they would be severing ties with the two photographers – at least for now.
The Times’ story comes several months after model Cameron Russell created an Instagram account on which anonymous individuals posted stories about their mistreatment in the industry. Last October, Terry Richardson was dropped by the leading fashion magazine publishers but only after years of allegations surrounding his behavior, while model Jason Boyce filed a lawsuit against Weber in December claiming the photographer harassed him. Weber has denied those claims, as well.
In November, 27-year-old British model Edie Campbell penned an exclusive letter for WWD to the fashion industry in which she said, “We operate within a culture that is too accepting of abuse, in all of its manifestations,” going
Mr. Plummer, who replaced Kevin Spacey in the role of J. Paul Getty, is magnetic in the film, which recounts the 1973 kidnapping of his grandson.
NYT > Arts
Christopher Martinez has joined Olivela as executive creative director.
In his new role, he will have creative oversight across different departments, working to define Olivela’s retail concept.
Olivela has a mission-focused luxury-shopping destination. Launched in June with 12 designer brands, the site – which now has over 30 designer brands – has a mandate to provide 40 percent of the proceeds from purchases to charity to help kids around the world.
Martinez was formerly digital creative director of Barneys New York, where he oversaw the redesign of Barneys.com and TheWindow.Barneys.com. Previous positions include senior art director of T: The New York Times magazine, art director of Esquire, as well as London-based publications Time Out and NME.
Olivela was founded by Stacey Boyd, a former educator who also founded Schoola, which sells gently used merchandise to support schools in need. The company in August named Ariel Foxman as its chief brand officer.
Boyd said of Martinez: “His expertise will guide, focus and distinguish Olivela’s creative identity as it continues to expand and develop in exciting new directions.”
FRIENDLY TAKEOVER: Best known for their artsy approach to fashion, design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos have taken over a three-story townhouse in South Kensington, as part of the Brompton Design District partnership with brands, which runs within the London Design Festival.
The duo set up a art and design space, filled with quirky pieces from their friends, who happen to be artists, as well. The objects are exclusive collaborations, all available for purchase, and are shown alongside the brand’s ready-to-wear collections, including spring-summer 2018, which debuted on Sunday and will be available for pre-order.
This is a premier of sorts for the brand, which doesn’t have its own brick-and-mortar.
“Yes, this is a suggestion of what [our store] might look like, but we are actually excited by the idea that this is temporary and that it gives a sense of ‘see it now or you might miss something,’” explained Pilotto at the opening on Sunday. Added De Vos: “We really don’t like the word pop-up, but we’ve been using it because this is a five-week-stunt, and it is a concept that works for us. There are so many different aspects to us and our work, and this is a great way
Chris Miller and Phil Lord leave the project mid-production due to “creative differences”.
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Christopher Meloni said goodbye to Detective Elliot Stabler and Law & Order: SVU in May 2011 seemingly with no regrets.
Meloni, who is starring opposite Amy Schumer and Goldie Hawn on…
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ROCKING OUT: “Surreal” was the adjective Christopher Kane chose to describe the opening of his first shop on Bond Street, a pop-up that will remain in place until the end of the year.
“I grew up knowing this street, seeing all the big brands on it. I’ve had to pinch myself now that I’m here. It feels very strange – but brilliant,” said Kane during an opening party in London on Wednesday night.
As reported, the space at 15 Old Bond Street is stocking key show and commercial ready-to-wear and accessories, and will also offer exclusive pieces made for the store. Kane’s flagship on Mount Street remains open.
Kane said he likes the idea of being able “to meet and greet” potential new customers in the Bond Street space, which has in the past been home to fellow Kering brand Bottega Veneta, and to Tod’s.
He was chatting in front of a display of marbled-surface Crocs studded with chunky, colored or sparkling rocks, some natural, others lab-grown. All of them would have made Pebbles Flintstone swoon.
“The Crocs are doing so well and we’re going to continue to collaborate with the company,” said Kane, whose decision to put Crocs on the runway caused many front-row guests to raise their
DISNEY FOR ADULTS: Disney is giving its adult fans a chance to relive their childhoods with a series of designer collaborations marking its new adaptation of “Beauty and the Beast.”
Christopher Kane is among Disney’s most popular collaborators, having just launched an extensive collection of ready-to-wear and accessories inspired by the new film.
As a self-confessed Disney fan and “animation snob” since childhood, the designer said he had always been looking for the right opportunity to partner with Disney.
“I hated ‘Tom and Jerry,’ I hated all that crap. I only watched Disney as a child, and ‘Beauty and the Beast’ was even more of an exception because Belle was not a princess; she was a normal girl, she was smart, she was an outsider, so that’s why I had an immediate attraction,” said Kane, who celebrated the collection launch at his Mount Street flagship on Thursday.
The new, “more mature” adaptation of the film featuring Emma Watson as Belle presented an opportunity for the designer to reimagine the children’s classic into a collection for adults.
He re-created the rose motif in myriad ways, printing it on simple T-shirts or sweatshirts with sleeve cutouts, incorporating it on a macramé lace minidress or adding oversize floral
William Christopher, who starred as Father Mulcahy in the long-running TV series M*A*S*H, has died at 84.
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Christopher Eccleston is to play Oedipus as part of a BBC Radio 3 celebration marking the centenary of the birth of writer and composer Anthony Burgess.
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Christopher Lloyd (Christo) was one of the greatest English gardeners of the twentieth century, perhaps the finest plantsman of them all. His creation is the garden at Great Dixter in East Sussex, and it is a tribute to his vision and achievement that, after his death in 2006, the Heritage Lottery Fund made a grant of £4 million to help preserve it for the nation. This enjoyable and revealing book – the first biography of Christo – is also the story of Dixter from 1910 to 2006, a unique unbroken history of one English house and one English garden spanning a century. It was Christo’s father, Nathaniel, who bought the medieval manor at Dixter and called in the fashionable Edwardian architect, Lutyens, to rebuild the house and lay out the garden. And it was his mother, Daisy, who made the first wild garden in the meadows there. Christo was born at Dixter in 1921. Apart from boarding school, war service and a period at horticultural college, he spent his whole life there, constantly re-planting and enriching the garden, while turning out landmark books and exhaustive journalism. Opinionated, argumentative and gloriously eccentric, he changed the face of English gardening through his passions for meadow gardening, dazzling colours and thorough husbandry. As the baby of a family of six – five boys and a girl – Christo was stifled by his adoring mother. Music-loving and sports-hating, he knew the Latin names of plants before he was eight. This fascinating book reveals what made Christo tick by examining his relationships with his generous but scheming mother, his like-minded friends (such as gardeners Anna Pavord and Beth Chatto) and his colleagues (including his head gardener, Fergus Garrett, a plantsman in Christo’s own mould).
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Christopher Darden was one of the prosecuting attorneys in the O.J. Simpson trial, a media event that was partly defined by issues of class and race. The verdict came down nearly 20 years ago, and yet, race continues to be a controversial subject in the United States, most recently surrounding the deaths of unarmed black men Michael Brown and Eric Garner at the hands of police offers.
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Former O.J. Simpson Prosecutor Christopher Darden on Eric Garner’s Death | Oprah: Where Are They Now? | OWN
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Whether he’s walking, running, or jumping, the Christopher sneaker can handle it all. Durable yet lightweight, it features a leather and mesh upper that won’t weigh him down. Plus, there are adjustable hook-and-loop closures for easy on/off and a flexible outsole to keep him comfortable on all of his adventures.
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