Clara Daguin Couture Fall 2019

The domed Chapelle Expiatoire tucked into a quiet square in the 8th arrondissement, built on the original burial site of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, provided the mystical backdrop for Clara Daguin’s first couture presentation.
The 2016 Hyères finalist, who specializes in combining artisanal techniques with technology in a form of science fiction meets fashion, showcased a single creation. Dubbed “Atom” and worn by her sister Mélanie like a living installation, her dress — if that is what it can be called — undulated in time to the soundtrack, activated by sound thanks to the circuits worked into the fabric.
Like the rings of gas that surround certain planets, four gauzy halos oscillated and glimmered around a column dress completely covered in five kilograms of glass beads, mirrors and neopixels, a pattern like a double-helix flickering mysteriously.
The creation of the design necessitated 3,142 hours of handiwork by a team of 31 helpers. Even in fashion’s tech-driven future, craftsmanship has its place.

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Zuhair Murad Fall Couture 2019

With North Africa as inspiration, Zuhair Murad worked traditional carpet patterns into richly colored jacquards and hand-beaded jackets — using them to bring a new flavor to his world of decadent sensuality.
“I like in every collection to search for a theme and to let people dream, and enter the dream somehow,” Murad said before the show. His North African jaunt, which he called “Mirages et Oasis,” came in deep reds and purples, infused with Lurex, as well as some jazzy, solid-gold statement numbers. Last season’s pleated pastel rainbow dress — worn by Chiara Ferragni last week in an Instagram post that garnered more than 500,000 likes — came in gold renditions, one with a muted leopard print and embellished with sequins, and another with an iridescent sheen and a matching cape that billowed out behind.
Also in the heart-stopping category: a fiery orange chiffon dress with puffs of feathers lining the cape — the airy gown flowing from a tightly wrapped bustier.
Murad keeps it all highly elevated, yet he relishes contradictions. Here, he used velvet as a contrast to the shimmery and beaded sides of the collection, lending a quiet softness to the high volume lineup.
New this season: fabric headbands. Murad was

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Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall 2019

The prime definition of glamour as “an attractive or exciting quality that makes certain people or things seem appealing” links it unquestionably to the world of couture. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren considered another facet of the word and started an “investigation into the original meaning of the word — casting a spell,” Snoeren said.
They had, they said at a preview, wanted to work with Claudy Jongstra, a fellow Dutch artist who has embraced sustainability in her work. To create felt such as the one used as a cornerstone of this collection, she raises her own flock, shears their wool herself and then dyes them using only plant pigments taken from her organic garden — including the elusive “Burgundian black,” a medieval recipe that produces a deep black with red undertones, which she redeveloped. Talk about a process.
But there was no preaching message behind Horsting and Snoeren’s musing. Rather, they wanted to inspire action. As the general feeling of doom about the environment rises on all sides, the designers wanted to “show something that would give a positive message,” Horsting said. “To cast a positive spell that says things can be done,” Snoeren added.
To stay in the spirit of her

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Couture Fall 2019 Trend: Acropolis Now

It could be the cultural moment. Or maybe couturiers just can’t get enough of a glorious classical inspiration. Either way, goddess looks were all over the haute runways, and they mesmerized.

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Jean Paul Gaultier Fall Couture 2019

Guests arriving at Jean Paul Gaultier’s headquarters in the sweltering afternoon were offered a choice of refreshments: a Magnum ice lolly or a glass of Champagne. Either one was perfect fare to settle in and watch the pregame entertainment.
Dressed in full evening gowns, guests crowded onto the catwalk to pose for photographs. Drag queen Violet Chachki furiously fanned herself as she greeted Swedish p.r. Fredrik Robertsson, rocking a green sequined hooded dress. Catherine Deneuve swooped in on Alber Elbaz, running her fingers through his bleached hair.
In a corner, Christina Aguilera sat with a sour expression as camera flashes went off in her face. Meanwhile, Hong Kong billionaire Stephen Hung, wearing silk Versace pajamas and velvet slippers, maintained an impassive expression behind his mirrored Ray-Bans. Robert Altman, eat your heart out.
By the time the show kicked off at 3:15 p.m. to the sound of Technotronic’s “Pump Up the Jam,” the space was filled with the kind of nervous energy one usually finds in a nightclub. Whoops and cheers greeted the first looks down the runway, including a quilted jacket that looked like it was made of fur.
It was an optical illusion: Gaultier, a fan of trompe-l’oeil effects, had used a photo

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Guo Pei Couture Fall 2019

If one believes in the multiverse theory, it’s entirely possible that Guo Pei’s creations are just the thing to wear when stepping out for a formal occasion. Such was the premise for a collection titled “Alternate Universe” that read as a Neil Gaiman-esque mythology in which goddesses of all creeds mingle among mortals. After all, what else to conclude from a show that starts with a pair of conjoined twins appearing from under a crow-laden arch?
That the Chinese couturier kept to a predominantly cream, metallic and gray palette gave her collection a cohesiveness reminiscent of Greek statuary. And details emerged despite the profusion of embellishments.
Embroidered scenes on dresses depicted “angels and Satan sit[ting] next to each other,” “monkeys sitting on the king’s throne under the guidance of prophets,” flocks of birds and esoteric motifs in the manner of illuminated manuscripts. There was one ballgown decked out as a human puppet theater, strings held by some sort of animal. A crow was perched on the shoulder of another gown with ballooning sleeves.
The final look was a complete tableau, the model in a marigold dress framed by a green knoll of silk chiffon grass, garment and landscape bleeding into each other.
Throughout, kilometers

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Nordstrom Anniversary Sale 2019: Score Deals on Fall Trends Now

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Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall Couture 2019

Chinos, lederhosen, breeches, flares — they’re not just kinds of pants. They’re among the historical research materials pictured in vintage photos on John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal mood board, from which he distilled a plan “to explore the trouser and how that could be transformative.”
Yes, Galliano believes in the power of pants (he prefers “trousers”) to transform, not only from one item of clothing into another, but an entire belief system as represented by sartorial selection. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
In the couture collection he showed on Wednesday morning, Galliano offered part three of his exploration of decadence. “Before, we were feeling the excess, and now I’m feeling we’re in decay, reflected by the breakdown of social structure. I’m feeling impulsive and anarchic,” he said in contemplative mode during a preshow visit at the very on-brand headquarters, a bastion of beautifully curated, chic dishabille. He then added a wry rejoinder. “I sound like a teenager, don’t I?”
Not at all. Nor did he sound like a typical designer during a typical preview. Galliano’s fashion speak is often dense. Talk of decadence moving toward decay led him to observe that “so few of us remember how to rely on instinct,” and

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Grimes to Appear in Fall Ad Campaign for Adidas by Stella McCartney

MAKING MUSIC: Stella McCartney has received some celebrity reinforcement from the Canadian musician Grimes, who is featuring in the fall Adidas by Stella McCartney campaign.
A commitment to sustainability isn’t the only common denominator between the British designer and the Canadian musician. Three years ago Grimes joined Madonna’s daughter Lourdes Leon, Amanda Stenberg and Kenya Kinski-Jones in a video for McCartney’s Pop perfume video campaign. But it was Grimes who headlined that ad campaign, which was photographed by Glen Luchford. Born Claire Elise Boucher, Grimes is a self-taught musical and visual artist. The 31-year-old has become a familiar face on the fashion circuit.
As part of her ongoing effort to help reduce the environmental impact, McCartney chose an assortment of eco-friendly cutting-edge fabrics for the fall collection, but ones that are performance-oriented. Recycled polyester made with Parley Ocean Plastic, and regenerated Econyl yarn are among the options. To try to ensure the looks stand up during high-intensity workouts and unexpected or severe climate conditions, there are such enhancements as Adidas’ Boost, Climachill and Climalite.
The collection draws in part from McCartney’s fall runway, as evidenced by the combination of graphic prints, bold mesh, soft, blush color palette and earth tones. Consumers will find

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Alberta Ferretti Limited Edition Fall 2019

Alberta Ferretti did not hold back with her Limited Edition demi-couture collection, with bold designs and intricate 3-D embroideries, which belied an underlying simplicity. Indeed, simplicity was a starting point for the designer, who said she was looking to “create a new silhouette with new, important volumes,” with an eye on “personalization and eccentricity” at the same time.
Big bows, sculptural sleeves, capes and draping on beautiful fabrics such as radzmir contrasted with simple silhouettes. Ferretti said the designs reflected “a woman’s strong identity,” which has always fascinated her and she enthused about “a dress that can move, accompany and transform a woman.”
This season, the designer also further elaborated the marine theme she developed for her latest resort lineup, shown in May in Monte Carlo, with fairy-tale lamé embroideries on jacquard gowns that looked like the seabed of an ocean, or delicate chiffon slipdresses embellished with degradé sequins that had a wet effect similar to “drops that fall off the body,” said the designer, reiterating her ongoing fascination with nature.
What Ferretti dubbed an “unexpected color palette” of acid sherbet green or mustard, with touches of vivid red, contrasted with the blues and azures of the sea theme.
Ferretti is also catering to

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Atelier By Fang Couture Fall 2019

The technique of origami featured heavily in Yang Fang’s fall 2019 collection for Atelier By Fang, the couture line of the fashion label she established in 2013 upon returning to her hometown of Shanghai after studying fashion at Esmod in Paris.
“Kids nowadays play on iPhones and iPads, but when I was little I used to play with paper,” said the designer, speaking at her first couture presentation in Paris. “My grandmother used to give me sheets of white paper and taught me how to transform them into small animals like frogs and elephants, or stars and flowers. When I arrived at Esmod, I started doing the same thing with fabrics, in order to pay homage to my Asian heritage.”
A stunning black-and-white midi shiftdress was made of hundreds of hand-folded silk organza flowers. At their center were eye-catching Swarovski crystals. The brand was the first Chinese label to be tapped by the jeweler as part of its support program for young designers, and the partnership has been going on for nine seasons.
The collection, which was black-and-white save for a short red dress, was entirely made in the By Fang couture ateliers in Shanghai, with a particular focus on craftsmanship and predominantly

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August Getty Atelier Couture Fall 2019

August Getty’s gothic, theatrical “Enigma” collection visited a dark, melancholic world of graveyards and masquerade balls. One armor-like minidress was molded from resin like an ornate tombstone, complete with a gargoyle on its shoulder. Another, in black leather, had a pannier skirt and crawled with Swarovski spiders.
“Think of it as a ceramic umbrella,” \ Getty said when explaining the technique used to create another of the dramatic, sculptural pieces in his fall couture collection, his second. The design in question was a pair of voluminous pants hewn from white silk to look like Pierrot’s ruffled collar and a matching top that covered the arms and torso, enveloping the body.
Providing a contrast from black and white, mint green velvet was worked with a grid-like embroidery of pearls on a mid-length bustier dress, its silhouette exaggerated with a bustle, and was intended to give the effect of oxidized copper. In a darker manifestation of forest green, an allover sequin gown embroidered with ostrich feathers at its hem reproduced a ghost-like cherub’s face come to haunt Getty’s morbid but creative underworld.

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Francesco Scognamiglio Couture Fall 2019

The iconic women who populated Capri’s nightlife, such as Veruschka, Brigitte Bardot and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, are the muses who inspired Francesco Scognamiglio’s couture collection.
Their elegant, feminine attitude was combined with influences from the Italian island, such as the colors of the sunset, which inspired the pink tone of a tulle dress. The nets of Capri’s fishermen echoed in the sparkling Swarovski crystal net sleeves of a draped minidress with a plunging V-neck, while the rich plaster decorations of Villa Lysis served as inspiration for the precious encrusted embellishment punctuating a wool coat.
Crystal starfishes and pearls gave an intriguing underwater feel to a slipdress, while a suit showing a constructed tulle jacket with a coordinated skirt was worked in a dark nocturnal tone, a nod to Capri’s legendary blue lizard living on the island’s signature Faraglioni rocks.

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Fendi Couture Fall 2019

The cinematic majesty of the Roman Colosseum as seen from the roof of the Temple of Venus and Rome took your breath away. It was one of those remarkable moments many of us in fashion are privileged to experience via our jobs, a moment to register for posterity not only on Instagram, but in the mind and heart.
That Fendi chose to show in Rome at this particular time was all the more special because the city meant so much to Karl Lagerfeld, who famously joined the company 54 years ago at the behest of the five Fendi sisters and stayed until his death in February. He often boasted that during that tenure, he’d visited the Eternal City more than 800 times.
Given that, Thursday night’s show was dedicated to Lagerfeld, but subtly so. Before the show, in a backstage area that was surprisingly functional given that its bones date to antiquity, Silvia Venturini Fendi, who had long coauthored the Fendi collection with Lagerfeld, said the brand had set its sights on a show at the venue some time ago, and that it was just a matter of when. When Lagerfeld died, “we said that the plan had to go [forward] and

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Valentino Couture Fall 2019

The magic continues. On Wednesday night at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli staged another dazzling show. Make that an event, one without the bells and whistles of a major set, but with a high-intensity front row that itself dazzled — Gwyneth Paltrow and Celine Dion in white, and Piccioli’s new BFF Naomi Campbell, who didn’t get the white memo and instead rocked hot pink stripes and a floppy hat. Their row of honor was anchored by Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti. (The positive relationship between the house and its founders, who cashed out years ago, is a lovely anomaly.)
The audience settled in for the latest turn in a brilliant series that has catapulted Piccioli to the forefront of the haute oeuvre. After the passing of Karl Lagerfeld and with John Galliano doing fascinating experimental work at Maison Margiela, Piccioli is its undisputed leader. His belief in couture’s ongoing relevance is well-known, including that even haute can espouse inclusivity as indicated by last season’s casting of mostly black models.
“It’s important today to dream of a world without boundaries, where everyone can live their own routes, everywhere. It’s just a dream, of course,” Piccioli  said during a preview. The

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Armani Privé Couture Fall 2019

Let there be light! That seemed to be the edict from Giorgio Armani, who shunned his signature darkened venues this season to showcase his fall Privé haute couture collection in a sun-drenched gallery at the soaring Petit Palais museum.
It made for a perfect foil to his dazzling outfits, which were covered in enough crystals to give Elsa a case of fashion frostbite. Armani used them by the fistful, as a sparkly dusting on barely there mesh tops, in orderly rows on his signature pagoda-shouldered jackets, and as droplets of light on the sheerest of tulle skirts.
“The impression is that of a clear water surface reflecting a ray of moonlight or sunlight,” his show notes explained.
The designer said the collection, dubbed Armani Code, was inspired by the “folk” style of the late Eighties and early Nineties. At first it was hard to see what he meant, so far removed were his liquid fabrics and iridescent textures from the rootsy appeal of boho chic.
He opened with those razor-sharp jackets in evanescent shades of pink and blue, paired with silver velvet pants overlaid with a whisper of tulle. The first hint of a folkloric touch came in the polka-dot motifs, though Armani homed

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Dress by Julie de Libran Couture Fall 2019

A new, niche intimacy is sprouting up in pockets across fashion, offering alternatives to the industry’s mega brand domination. Julie de Libran is one designer going her own way. After her departure from Sonia Rykiel, where she was creative director, de Libran didn’t opt for an “Eat, Pray, Love” sabbatical (physical or emotional). Instead, she jumped into a new project with her name on the label and her personal aesthetic on view.
To telegraph the personal approach behind Dress By Julie de Lebran, the designer showed her debut lineup of 21 looks in her home. “I thought it was nicer and easier,” she said. “Since I’m in my universe, I feel more relaxed and I like to have people over, even if I’m not a very good cook. I tend to get stressed in the kitchen.” (Her caterer filled the void, supplying a feast of veggie-based hors d’oeuvres.)
De Libran focused on dresses precisely because they feel so personal to her — she designed her first one at 14, for a school dance — and they represent “infinite creativity.” Yet this was no fantasy-come-to-life. Rather de Libran showed a range of distinctive looks for women who believe in dressing up at night,

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Ulyana Sergeenko Couture Fall 2019

Ulyana Sergeenko’s luxury loving jetsetter left behind her old life in search of adventure, traveling east to Uzbekistan with only the clothes on her back — namely the burgundy patent leather trench dress and black-and-white bustier gown of the opening looks in the Russian designer’s fall couture collection.
When she arrives, her wardrobe takes on the influences of Samarkand, with its Islamic architecture and influential position on the ancient Silk Road, picking up her eclectic finds in the city’s bustling souks, overtaking the senses.
Metallic motifs found their way onto fluid organza dresses and harem pants in a deep palette of forest green and burgundy, adorned with colorful tassels or sequins. Her voluminous capes were worked in hand-painted silk in black or mustard yellow or inspired by the geometric patterns of the carpets of the region.
Decadent bodices and dresses offered a colorful display of allover sequins. In other looks, ballooning silks and jacquards undulated in an array of pink and lilac shades or orange and gold. Sergeenko amplified the silhouette with exaggerated shoulders, ample skirts and cinched waists, one of her signatures.
There was a charm in the balance of opulence and folklore to many of the looks, taking Sergeenko into new territory

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6 Times Penn Badgley Was Here to Remind Us Not to Fall in Love With You’s Joe

You, Penn Badgley, Netflix, LifetimeThere is perhaps no one more creeped out by the main character of You than his portrayer, Penn Badgley.
Badgley, previously best known for being Gossip Girl, has spoken out many, many…

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6 Times Penn Badgley Was Here to Remind Us Not to Fall in Love With You’s Joe

You, Penn Badgley, Netflix, LifetimeThere is perhaps no one more creeped out by the main character of You than his portrayer, Penn Badgley.
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Giorgio Armani Taps Kate Moss for Fall Ad Campaign

ARMANI’S FIRST: There’s a first time for everything. Despite the fashion longevity of Kate Moss, the model has never fronted a Giorgio Armani campaign. This is changing with the Italian designer’s fall ads for his namesake brand. Armani has tapped Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, who have already collaborated with him in the past, to photograph Moss, who sports a new hairdo — a sleek, straight, fringed bob in a very light shade of blonde.
 

Kate Moss in Giorgio Armani’s fall campaign. 
Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott

 
The photographs are in both black and white and color — emphasizing the collection’s “Rhapsody in Blue” theme, as Armani called it, after the Gershwin song.
The set is minimal, with a focus on the clothes and on Moss, in sync with the designer’s belief expressed earlier this year: “It’s time for elegance again.”
“A first-time interpreter of the Armani style to which her feisty, free-spirited sensual presence is brought to bear, Kate Moss stands out as a woman of singular beauty, whose personality and energy decisively set her apart from the fleeting fads of the moment,” said the company. The campaign will bow next week.
Models Daisuke Ueda and Thijs Stenneberg appear wearing the label’s men’s line. For the

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Y’s Fall 2019

Y’s hasn’t held a fashion show in Tokyo in five years, and this season it came back with a bang, staging back-to-back shows in different venues within the same building. The first featured its Bang On! line of genderless, timeless pieces. Created by a team of designers, the collection centered around 15 different coats in five styles, from thick wool offerings with contrasting rope trailing off of them to military-inspired styles lined in faux fur. The silhouettes were oversize but clean, and the substantial fabrics contrasted with the more fluid pants and shirts worn underneath. Details such as asymmetric hems and long, uncut threads made it clear where the brand’s roots lie.
In a second, larger show, Y’s presented its capsule collection designed using materials from the Italian firm Alcantara, which is owned by Japanese textile giant Toray Industries. Tailored jackets, relaxed-fit trousers and long coats were cut from a gleaming metallic silver material, sueded textiles, and a fabric with a texture that resembled crumpled up paper. But while the materials added interest to the collection, it was how they were used in garments that really brought them to life. Thicker fabrics such as faux leather were used in boxy, structured

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Tory Sport RTW Fall 2019

“Everything’s wickable, breathable…we spent four years developing fabrics,” Tory Burch explained during a walk-through of her latest collection for her high-performance sportswear brand, Tory Sport. Burch added that through her recent collaboration with Soul Cycle (a seven-piece capsule which launched on March 6) she was most excited about hearing feedback from real athletes — from full marathon runners to yogis — who have been surprised and highly impressed by its functionality. A fall favorite (and best-selling) call out included a chevron printed legging and matching bra in oatmeal brown (which sits in the collection under Burch’s new neutral program). Said leggings and bras could be piled under her continually wonderful knits or great new outerwear (a puffed, sleeping bag coat or half-quilted, half-sherpa fleece jacket).
For fall, Burch infused a study of contrasts throughout: watercolor-inspired tie dye versus clean, bright color blocking (in red, purple, navy, royal blue) and chevron graphics when it came to palette and prints, or lightweight nylon ripstop running jackets versus chunky, puffed down coats when it came to outerwear. Within the golf and tennis categories, a new white hybrid skort with a ruffled side perfectly depicted the brand’s overall contrasting play on sporty femininity.

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Tre by Natalie Ratabesi RTW Fall 2019

At first glance, designer Natalie Ratabesi’s latest collection for her line Tre by Natalie Ratabesi was instantly invigorating, the racks in her showroom filled with a bold palette of reds (pinks to maroon) and even fluorescent orange. Ratabesi explained the red hot palette stemmed from the Netflix documentary, “Wild Wild Country,” while inspiration from the Eighties influenced her designs and gold jewelry laden models of her look book.
For fall, Ratabesi explained she wanted to reinforce her strengths. Strong pants — pink denim in lieu of blue, a great new band pant with adjustable Velcro sides on the waistband to wear higher or lower on the hip, and updated combat pants — as well as layering pieces inspired from men’s wear. Tailoring proved strong once again, like a burgundy suit set styled ever so cooly under a standout new cropped little poly padded jacket. Whether it was her colorblocked blouses or sensual, fluid gowns, Ratabesi’s collection continued her strong, and very cool, point of view through refreshing designs.

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The Dallas RTW Fall 2019

Name: The Dallas
Main message: Fumie Tanaka’s modern take on classic style elements was foreshadowed by its venue: a French restaurant with mosaic tiled floors, arched doorways and Art Nouveau hanging on the walls. But when the lights went up, the opera changed to thumping bass and the models strutted around corners in looks that showed a deft mix of the traditional and the now. Long, flowing dresses in rich hues and floral prints shared the runway with leopard-print pantsuits with lace overlays, sheer, slinky knits and workwear-inspired jumpsuits. Tanaka expertly mixed print and texture, incorporating plush faux fur, ivory and black checked wool, sky blue chiffon, and metallic lamé. Track pants with lace side stripes and oversize proportions on basic jackets gave classic pieces an air of modern, streetwear cool.
The result: Tanaka turned out a solid, cohesive collection of versatile separates that meld femininity and a relaxed, street-ready sensibility.

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Noma T.D. RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Noma T.D.
Main message: Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki have been designing their brand for more than a decade, but their latest collection was the first one they presented at Tokyo Fashion Week. First they showed a short film directed by Rinko Kawauchi with music by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Titled “Harmony,” it showed simple, everyday scenes at a family country house and the surrounding wilderness as winter changes to spring.
Next, a black curtain opened to reveal eight models in relaxed, outdoorsy Noma T.D. looks. A pajama-like set of flannel pants and a shirt in a big, bold check pattern was paired with a black fishing vest for men, while a gray, navy and dark green floral print satin dress peeked out from under a plush wool coat for women. There was also a blue tie-dyed sweatsuit, a shirt embroidered with large flowers, and a quilted black coat with striped satin sleeves in black and deep blue.
The result: The offering, while small, showed a balance between street-ready and outdoorsy pieces, making it well suited for the modern urbanite.

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Hyke RTW Fall 2019

Name: Hyke
Main message: Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara reimagined classic military pieces for fall, rendered in oversize proportions and tech fabrics. Voluminous toggle and shawl-collar coats in Army green and skirts made of swinging fringe shared the runway with structured jersey dresses that were striking in their simplicity. The designers also showed their latest collaboration items: eyewear by Julius Tart Optical, tote bags by Chacoli, wedges by Beautiful Shoes, and puffer jackets, long down coats and rain jackets by The North Face.
Ode and Yoshihara showed their skills with sumptuous outerwear that was both cozy and elegant, as well as beautifully draped dresses and asymmetric knits that came alive with movement. Their textures were equally rich, ranging from corduroy and wool flannel to fur and technical fabrics.
The result: The collection had a clear point of view and beautifully constructed clothes, once again demonstrating why Hyke is one of the strongest brands in Japan at the moment.

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Keisukeyoshida RTW Fall 2019

Name: Keisukeyoshida
Main message: What do you get when you mix sharp tailoring and a wide range of textures with subtle bondage influences? Keisuke Yoshida’s latest offering, which was shown on a slick red runway with stairs in the center and models all with bandaged heads. A short suit with an oversize, double-breasted jacket was worn over pleather leggings punctuated with cutouts and buckles, while slinky dresses in headline printed mesh or lamé jersey were gathered all over for a balance of sexy and conservative.
There were structural elements as well, with tails of coats clipped to the backs of collars to create a vague origami effect, and sleeves that were either ballooned and extra long or topped with boned shoulder plates rivaling a football player’s padding. High-wasted pants with rows of rope fastened with toggles were paired with satin blouses trimmed in exaggerated Western-inspired yokes.
The result: Yoshida’s collection was just fantastical enough to find itself at home on the streets of Tokyo, without taking itself too seriously.

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Cinoh RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Cinoh
Main message: Takayuki Chino has been heading his own brands for over a decade, but as one of the winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, he staged a runway show for the first time this season. With it, he showed his audience just why Cinoh has reached levels of popularity that many Tokyo brands can only hope for, being carried by top retailers across Japan.
The designer showed a relaxed, slightly disheveled sophistication. A leopard print, plush fleece pantsuit and long, fringed straight skirts for women shared the runway with men’s suits that were reimagined with pullovers in the place of button-front jackets. Long satin dresses, pleather overalls, fuzzy knits and easy fit trousers were given a subtle injection of Nineties grunge when paired with oversize plaid jackets and shirts. The theme was also hinted at in the show’s soundtrack, which included an instrumental backing track of Nirvana’s 1991 hit “Smells Like Teen Spirit.”
The result: With equal parts elegance and comfort, it was a collection that will surely resonate with Tokyo’s fashion-forward youth, without alienating older consumers.

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Nobuyuki Matsui Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Nobuyuki Matsui
Main message: The first clue that Nobuyuki Matsui’s first Tokyo Fashion Week outing was going to be something unusual was the invitation: a small cardboard box holding a single air pillow, on which details of the show were printed. When audience members arrived, they were asked to step over the back of long benches in order to reach their seats. The long, narrow runway was strewn with air packaging, some filled with goose down, which popped under the models’ feet, adding a strange kind of percussion to the soundtrack.
Some of the clothes also incorporated the pillow-like pouches, which were tied with strings to coats or stuffed inside a tan leather vest that was cut to look like another form of packaging material. But the concept didn’t run through the entire collection, and some looks of simple pants and shirts felt bland and unimaginative. More interesting was Matsui’s modern take on tailoring, which included pullover vests and suits with exposed stitching, contrast fabrics, and trousers that were either cropped or cinched with belts at the ankle.
The result: The collection showed ingenuity and a fresh take on some men’s wear staples, but it was inconsistent and would have benefited from

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Postelegant RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Postelegant
Main message: One of the six winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, Yuya Nakata’s fledgling brand (established only two years ago) aims to make “timeless modern wear with the best materials and details.” For the brand’s first collection shown on the runway, it did just that. The silhouettes were classic and refined, including different cuts of long coats, tailored trousers and calf-length dresses. And while they were beautifully cut to move with the body, it was the fabrics that set them apart from simple basics. Wool blends in sky blue and red, ribbed knits in the perfect shade of medium gray, a fine, bone-colored twill, and a trio of cloths all in dusty pink all begged a second look.
The result: A newcomer on the Tokyo fashion scene, Nakata proved himself as one to watch with a collection that went beyond elegant to something new and undeniably modern.

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Ujoh RTW Fall 2019

Name: Ujoh
Main message: Tapped by Italian manufacturer Saldarini to help promote its Cashmere Flakes line, this season Mitsuru Nishizaki put his spin on the company’s quilted puff outerwear, which is stuffed with cashmere filling rather than goose down. To give the jackets and coats a more urban vibe, he added oversize wool patch pockets or snap-on sleeve covers, or chose unconventional colors such as bright blue or dusty pink, which contrasted with the nearly all-black and navy offering. Nishizaki mixed the outerwear with pieces from his main line, including long floral dresses, tonal checked skirts and track pant-inspired trousers.
The result: While the collection included some unexpected choices and will surely be well received by consumers, it lacked the “wow” factor that viewers hope to see during fashion week.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Mistergentleman
Main message: Always one of the bright spots during Tokyo Fashion Week, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s men’s brand mixed easy tailoring with streetwear, outdoor and women’s wear influences for fall. Models walked the grass-like carpeted runway in retro, relaxed snakeskin print suits paired with satin double-breasted shirts and neckerchiefs, or velvet pants with roomy overcoats. The more casual looks included dad jeans, hooded sweatshirts and duck canvas jackets, all in neutral shades of gray, brown, khaki and black, interspersed with pops of purple, green and orange.
Osumi and Yoshii played with proportions, shrinking trenches and puffer jackets into crop tops and styling them over wool coats and loose sweaters. Moto, letterman and toggle jackets were chopped up into bib-like pieces and layered over outerwear, while a series of coats and jackets were cut from two contrasting fabrics: olive corduroy and gray wool flannel, or plush fleece with the same snake print from earlier pieces. Subtle feminine touches came in the form of silk scarves worn as belts over coats, and a handful of equestrian print jackets and shifts. The brand also debuted its latest collaboration products, including quilted bags made with Outdoor Products and a black satin bomber designed

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Shiroma RTW Fall 2019

Name: Shiroma
Main message: Shiho Shiroma lucked out with unseasonably balmy weather for her outdoor fashion show, held right in the center of Shibuya, Tokyo’s most buzzing neighborhood. It was also a wise choice for a venue, as her clothes looked right at home in one of Japan’s fashion centers — although the logo-covered backdrop left much to be desired. She showed basics with a twist, mixed with less conventional pieces. Simple shift dresses were made interesting with structural belts and one-shoulder harnesses, some trimmed in frills. While overall the neutral-toned collection had a modern feminine feel, there were also ample military and athletic influences. Wide-leg olive pants and khaki trousers had snaps all down the outer leg, allowing them to be opened up so they billowed with movement, wool arm covers were reminiscent of skaters’ elbow guards, and bomber jackets were turned out in navy and mustard lace or cropped in burgundy satin with balloon sleeves. Ankle-length sweatshirt hoodies were splashed with botanical patterned embroidery and sequins, and cotton twill tanks, dresses and trenchcoats had overlays on one half of a gossamer-thin, sheer tech fabric.
The result: Just the right amount of asymmetry, mixed influences and contrasting textures made for an

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The Reracs RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: The Reracs
Main message: With her inaugural show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Naomi Kurahashi displayed just how to present classic pieces on a runway without boring the audience: make sure to have plenty of variety, use beautiful textiles, keep the pace quick, and employ inventive styling choices. The brand lived up to its profile, which says that it’s “backed by quality and practicality,” but proved that it has so much more to offer.
The collection was made up of variations on a pretty basic theme: straight-legged or relaxed, jogger-style trousers paired with V-neck sweaters or just about any kind of outerwear imaginable, all turned out in neutral tones of gray, black, navy, white and beige. But the superior construction and luxurious textiles elevated the collection beyond simple classics, with suiting material showing a drape resembling that of matte jersey, and a black pleather poncho turning more heads than it would have if it had been made from animal skin. The fabrics were so beautiful on their own that there was no need for flashy prints, but occasional flashes of Fair Isle, argyle or checked patterns kept things interesting.
The result: Kurahashi has been designing The Reracs for nearly a decade, but proved

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Malamute RTW Fall 2019

Name: Malamute
Main message: For her second outing during Tokyo Fashion Week, Mari Odaka took inspiration from Tokyo’s changing landscape ahead of the 2020 Olympics, as well as from two films: Andrew Niccol’s 1997 “Gattaca” and Jim Jarmusch’s 2013 “Only Lovers Left Alive.”
Odaka created her own surreal landscape on the runway with large squares of gold Mylar illuminated by fluorescent tube lights, accompanied by a soundtrack of jarring noise. She deftly mixed contrasting textures, showing pleated chiffon trousers together with an unevenly knit scarf that resembled static on a TV, but in red and navy. A shimmering, open knit long skirt resembling a spider web glistening in the morning sun was paired with a cold shoulder black sweater with spots of ivory fringe. There were also pantsuits with relaxed, slit-ankle trousers in black on black floral brocade or pale gray suiting trimmed with tiny ruffles. An oversize grandpa sweater worn as a minidress and a red and black tracksuit with chevron detailing lent a retro vibe.
The result: The designer proved her fledgling brand to be one to watch with a strong collection of relaxed yet elegant pieces in interesting textures.

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Dressedundressed RTW Fall 2019

Name: Dressedundressed
Main message: Takeshi Kitazawa’s spring presentation was part runway show, part performance art, with models emerging on the runway in pairs before engaging in various interactions in front of a simple set: drinking a cup of water, swapping jackets, cutting open a feather pillow, or one presenting the other with a piece of paper on which was written “do something boring.” All this took place to a voiceover soundtrack of men describing their dreams, but the significance of it all was not immediately clear.
Kitazawa sent out tailored or wide-leg trousers with high waists together with tiny cropped tops and jackets. There were shirts with sheer chest panels, bandage tube tops, tailored coats, a leather biker jacket and trench, and suit jackets with key fobs safety pinned to them. Many looks were pantless, instead including only a pair of briefs or a bodysuit. As with most of Dressedundressed’s collections, everything was unisex and in neutral shades of black, white and beige. Half of the models wore black masks with silver eyelets to see through, which together with belts worn on wrists, gave the offering slight BDSM undertones.
The result: The clothes were well cut and there was some interesting proportion play, but the collection

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Jenny Fax RTW Fall 2019

Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: Taiwanese designer Shueh Jen-Fang takes fragments of childhood memories and turns them into avant-garde collections. For her latest offering she put her stamp on an innocent picnic, with sweet, pastel lace dresses paired with candy-striped blouses. True to form, nothing was quite as it seemed, with acid-washed denim skorts that were so low-waisted they put on display the granny panties attached underneath. Plush balloon dresses had boning to create voluminous, sculptural shapes, while tweed tops were shrunken into tiny, frill-adorned bandeaus. The show closed with a vinyl puffer coat with a hood that zipped all the way up to create a cartoon-like character, and a white split cape that billowed behind like a pair of angel wings.
The result: The collection struck just the right chord between the bizarre and charmingly unique, a weirdly fun take on a fairy-tale-like dreamscape.

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Louis Vuitton RTW Fall 2019

Since Nicolas Ghesquière presented his debut collection for Louis Vuitton inside the Louvre’s Cour Carrée in 2014, he has often used the historic museum as a backdrop for spectacular sets with a futuristic bent.
On Tuesday evening, guests arrived at the venue to discover a reproduction of another Paris art institution, the Centre Pompidou, built by architects Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, in a groundbreaking style that caused an uproar when it opened in 1977.
Why the world’s largest luxury brand would build a faithful copy of a structure that is only a mile away in real life was something of a mystery — one that Ghesquière cleared after the show: The collection was inspired by his people-watching at Café Beaubourg, which overlooks the vast square in front of the Pompidou.
The eclectic lineup drew on the tribes he spotted there. The fashion crowd was decked out in speckled tweed dresses that framed the neck with extravagant ruffles; the museum staff, in a blend of sharp tailoring and folkloric patchwork sleeveless coats; the former punks, still marching to a colorful New Wave beat, and even the street performers, with many of the models sporting leather Pierrot caps — although disciples of Marcel Marceau

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Maticevski RTW Fall 2019

Toni Maticevski upped the focus on tech fabrics, “And seeing how they translate into things that are wearable.”
The attitude stayed dressy, though. Gathered into architectural folds, a gold and silver foil jersey used on gowns was surprisingly light and soft, with foil effects also surfacing on a black wool-cashmere coat. A capsule of black-and-white chiffon evening pieces peppered with high-tech flocking in animal-meets-floral motifs were striking.
The designer broke the mood with a romantic section of dresses, including a long ivory tulle gown with a pleated top and short pale pink skirt embroidered in organic strips of metallics and sequins which lent an artisanal charm.
The pièce de résistance in the handiwork intensive collection was a floor-sweeping pastel gown covered in circular tea-stained ruffles.

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Yves Salomon RTW Fall 2019

A Seventies-style faun-colored intarsia coat figured among the rich range of shearlings, as the brand continues to steer the focus away from fur, also mixing textures on coats, contrasting shaved and fluffy surfaces and playing with prints, including a leopard motif, to broaden the category’s appeal.
Brought in to design the second edition of the brand’s Pieces capsule of six upcycled furs was André Walker who got creative with mink scraps. Items included a black mink jumpsuit masquerading as corduroy, a cream shirt in sheared mink, and a showstopper fringed sheared-mink intarsia dress with a face print based on one of Walker’s artworks. Sporting labels signed by Walker, the pieces will be produced in limited-edition series.

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Galvan RTW Fall 2019

“It’s kind of funny when you think about seasons anymore because what’s winter for someone is summer for another,” described Galvan’s Katherine Holmgren. ”There’s always so much travel in-between different locations and climates and temperatures.” Having an international customer who shops in varying climates, the team from Galvan looked to their creative director, Sola Harrison’s, recent trip to Bali to infuse a wintery jungle theme into their fall lineup. Lush green leafy hues ran throughout — simply sophisticated in floor-length slips or more daring in an emerald green sequined blazer with fringed details. Acid green also made an appearance in scuba-like materials, like a bustier minidress, mixing the surfer, beachy vibes and jungle landscapes of Ubud and Uluwatu.
“We’re always trying to make eveningwear — glamorous, yes — but with a dash of fun and youth…and a cool factor that’s often missing,” Holmgren described. The brand continues to do so — fall meant updated sequined — as well as velvet devore-offerings (in a great leafy print). A special edition hand-placed tiger printed velvet devoré shirtdress and slinky “Bali” scarf printed — found during Harrison’s travels — gowns made for great additions to round out the collection of multiple-climate appropriate attire.

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Antonio Berardi RTW Fall 2019

While he showcased his latest fall collection to buyers according to the traditional schedule, Antonio Berardi skipped any classic shows or presentations during fashion week this season. His beautiful collection was actually revealed to journalists with one-on-one appointments in his Milan showroom and via a range of images portraying fashion icon Catherine Baba.
“The idea that the collection starts in my world is given over to someone else, who makes it fit in her world, and the eventually of it becoming part of someone else’s universe on a totally different level is perhaps the most exciting thing of all,” Berardi said on Baba’s interpretation of her clothes.
Her bold personality actually exalted the already distinctive spirit of the collection — which, designed to complement the pre-fall range, was more focused on cocktail and evening attire.
Continuing to offer his own take on his inspiration from the year 1968 — already the theme of pre-fall — Berardi played with the sharp and the precise mixed with the soft and bohemian. A white minidress with scalloped edges and flared sleeves exuded the same feminine allure as another short dress, worked in overblown checks, showing exaggerated ruffles.
Lengths got longer in a hot pink gown revealing precise vertical

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Y’s RTW Fall 2019

One of the key themes from the Black line was transparency, with signature gabardine coats flipped inside out to put their inner workings on display, the seams exposed, as well as reversible pieces, with a split-personality coat with beige linen on one side, black silk on the other.
A uniform storyline included coats mixing houndstooth with a monochrome Y’s tartan, lovely black blazers with cutouts of jewel-tone motifs lifted from Persian carpets used to evoke medals, and a series of pinstripe coats with the stripes bleached into the fabric, as well as bleached color-blocking effects.
The Pink line offered a capsule of textured knits, including a seamless cashmere sweater; feminized spins on men’s shirting fabrics, applying details like lace and ruffles to gingham and striped styles, as well as a capsule of sweatshirts playing on the band T-shirt graphics used for Prince and the Revolution’s Purple Rain Tour in the mid-Eighties.

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Karim Adduchi RTW Fall 2019

Amsterdam-based Moroccan designer Karim Adduchi’s mission in Paris was to present a line of more commercial ready-to-wear looks, ranging from jacquard coats in a woodland print to a tailored blazer with details including 3-D buttons with a design inspired by berbère culture and belt loops at the waist.
But his couture pieces grabbed all the attention, especially the twists on traditional Moroccan garb, like a top and skirt honed from finishings sourced from every city that the designer has visited in his homeland, including colored tassels in earthy hues that formed the skirt.
Also drawing the eye was a red silk scarf dress and a long gown with a split made from an artisanal striped wool with raw seams.

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Y’s RTW Fall 2019

One of the key themes from the Black line was transparency, with signature gabardine coats flipped inside out to put their inner workings on display, the seams exposed, as well as reversible pieces, with a split-personality coat with beige linen on one side, black silk on the other.
A uniform storyline included coats mixing houndstooth with a monochrome Y’s tartan, lovely black blazers with cutouts of jewel-tone motifs lifted from Persian carpets used to evoke medals, and a series of pinstripe coats with the stripes bleached into the fabric, as well as bleached color-blocking effects.
The Pink line offered a capsule of textured knits, including a seamless cashmere sweater; feminized spins on men’s shirting fabrics, applying details like lace and ruffles to gingham and striped styles, as well as a capsule of sweatshirts playing on the band T-shirt graphics used for Prince and the Revolution’s Purple Rain Tour in the mid-Eighties.

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Capucci RTW Fall 2019

Having cycled through a number of formats and creative directors in the last few years, Capucci is banking on an injection of youth to restore the brand to the glory days of its founder, Roberto Capucci.
The label’s owner, businesswoman and art patron, Paola Santarelli, has appointed her daughter, Vittoria Bonifati, as artistic coordinator, with Valeria Giampietro as art director. They, in turn, have drafted Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi, the “It” girls behind the handbag label TL-180, to refresh the brand.
Staging a presentation in Paris for the first time, Capucci unveiled a capsule collection based on the more wearable portions of its archive. The couturier, now 88, has been a friend of the Santarellis for decades.
“He was very close with my grandmother and my mother. My mom’s wedding dress was designed by him, and also my grandmother had a lot of clothes designed by him, so I’ve known him for quite a bit, and he comes still to the atelier. He has some clients and makes haute couture,” Bonifati said.
A tunic top and cropped flared pants featured subtle black-and-white Op Art stripes that were stitched together from dozens of fine strips of fabric. A collarless coat with a scalloped edge

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Hillier Bartley RTW Fall 2019

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley cast their eyes to the Eighties, and to the pop colors and patterns of Kansai Yamamoto. Their collection was wild, full of color and languid proportions in the form of a check Zoot suit, its jacket slashed open at the front, and a camel pinstripe suit with a short jacket and roomy, tracksuit-style trousers. Blouses and dresses were draped, folded, knotted or tied, as in a silk raspberry dress with statement sleeves and piratical flair, and a black tuxedo jacket with a cascade of jewel-toned, fringed silk spilling from the back. The collection had its New Romantic moments, too, in the form of a white poet’s blouse with wide ruffles around the neck and wrists, and cotton striped shirts with layered sleeves and long flowing tails. These clothes, with their dramatic proportions and look-at-me colors, aren’t for everyone: Only the cool kids need apply.

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A.F. Vandevorst RTW Fall 2019

For fall, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had a country girl in mind — low profile but feminine, used to roaming the outdoors. Not one to put up with vestimentary restrictions. So they cut open the sleeves of her suit coat, lining them with zippers in case she wanted to close them back again. Shirt sleeves, too, were opened in this way, but with buttons. There was no planned color scheme — fabrics were chosen for their qualities, and then crafted into garments, making it more spontaneous and perhaps less intellectual, explained Vandevorst. Loose, tan trousers had a sporty, orange ribbon running up the leg while a silky purple shirt had piping details on the cuff, western style  and one shoulder. Also in the lineup, season staples: a long, pleated skirt and smart outerwear, including trenchcoats.
Reflecting the label’s new emphasis on accessories, the showroom presentation was dominated by boots, sneakers and handbags galore — all shapes and sizes. Bags were mostly square-shaped, stamped with the label’s signature cross. Footwear options included a chunky-heeled ankle boot with zebra stripes on the front and lizard skin on the back — suitable, no doubt, for that country girl hitting the city streets.
What the

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Cyclas RTW Fall 2019

A former fashion director for Japanese concept store United Arrows, Keiko Onose has chosen to eschew seasonal inspirations for the collections she creates for Cyclas, the ready-to-wear brand she founded in 2016.
“Gerhard Richter’s paintings are a continuous inspiration for me,” said the designer backstage about the German artist’s “Abstract Paintings” series, which were already a starting point for last season’s collection. Hints of his work were found on a printed coat dress worn over trousers: “It’s a flower print, but I tried to make it look destroyed, like it’s been crashed or hammered,” said Onose.
Other than the printed silhouette, the color palette for the fall 2019 show — the brand’s first on the official calendar — was a muted mix of khaki, light sage, beige and grey, with bright accents delivered by kooky sequined flats. The clashes came in the form of contrasting textures: an ivory pleated organza apron was tied over crisp cotton trousers, a lamé skirt was paired with a knitted top, and chubby faux fur coats were worn over high waisted corduroy trousers.
It was quite a cerebral collection: minute details, such as hand stitches replacing traditional seams on a voluminous cream top, were only visible up close

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Alexander McQueen RTW Fall 2019

Celtic warrior goddesses, you’re off duty for a while. For fall, Sarah Burton sought more real inspiration. It started with a homecoming in the north of England, where she visited old mill towns, some with still-operational mills that supply the classic, refined men’s wear fabrics she has long used at Alexander McQueen.
“We thought of the industrial revolution but also the memories I have as a child,” Burton said backstage, noting that her father had one cherished pinstriped suit. “We thought of the skill that goes into making these fabrics. It’s man and machine working together,” she offered, noting that much of the work remains by-hand, including the threading of needle-like instruments called heddles. “I love nature [inspirations], but nature is very much escapism,” she said. “I wanted this to be very much grounded in reality. I wanted it to be [about] where I’m from and where we belong in the world and where we feel at home. There’s an honesty about these mills.”
It all provided a framework for Burton’s focus on tailoring in an exquisite collection that pulsed with artful tension while retaining an underlying commercial savvy, without a trace of bourgeois rumination. Burton started from her beloved baseline of

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Sacai RTW Fall 2019

An oversized trench coat restrained by a teeny-tiny cropped puffer vest, all as one piece, epitomized what Chitose Abe was trying to do with her fall Sacai collection: bring new proportion play to her signature hybrid pieces. “Putting something really small on top of something big,” she said backstage, recalling how as a young woman, she used to wear a child’s size Ralph Lauren button-down oxford shirt over a voluminous vintage dress. “That’s something I tried to do in one piece.”
She succeeded, and found the perfect balance of large and small in almost every look. Consider the black anorak, cinched at the waist, fanning out in cartridge pleats over the hips, balanced with a straight skirt zipped down the back. Or a denim jacket, trimmed in fur, that flared into a nylon puffer at the bottom. Working the male-female balance, an oversized tweed overcoat came with a nylon corset built in. It was outerwear stylish enough to keep on indoors.
Sacai’s knits are always another high point, and this season didn’t disappoint. Both an oversized black crewneck sweater, and a long green Nordic sweater dress, had multiple zippers down one side for the wearer to reveal or conceal as much as

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Haider Ackermann Fall 2019

If you weren’t already convinced Haider Ackermann is one of the sexiest designers in Paris, you would be after hearing his NSFW heart-thumping, rapturous-moaning show soundtrack. Wowza.
It set the tone for the designer’s latest exploration of gender and sexuality. Nothing unisex here (that’s still somewhat of a dirty word in fashion), “it was all about borrowing clothes from your loved one,” he said backstage. The morning after, perhaps? And indeed, you couldn’t tell what was for women and what was for men, or even who was whom model-wise underneath the androgynous slicked back hair that created its own kind of new, non-binary normal on the runway.
As usual, the focus was sculptural tailoring, but not in the long liquid style or moody color palette laced with exoticism of seasons past. Instead, Ackermann wanted to “restrict it to something graphic to really challenge myself,” he said by way of explaining the black, white and red of the collection, including a long, duster coat reminiscent of a color field painting.
Throughout, there was a dialogue between structure and ease; a fitted jacket with concealed buttons, fabric twisted into something reminiscent of a shoulder embrace, for example. The style came in a variety of fabrications,

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Balmain RTW Fall 2019

For fall, Olivier Rousteing may have been inspired by troublemakers, but it was a gateway to one of the more conventionally wearable collections he’s shown to date. That was a good thing.
The brand that has made jackets with linebacker shoulders its stock and trade went light on the look, and in a season when it’s turned up everywhere from Yves Saint Laurent to Dries Van Noten, too. Instead, Rousteing leaned more on romance, channeling his rock ‘n roll spirit (and a few winks to Rue Cambon) through Easter egg pastel hues, pleated miniskirts resembling armor, looser tailoring and lighter fabrications (in the best exits), for a vibe that was “sweet poison” as he called it.
Coming off showing his first couture collection for the house in January, Rousteing said he is thinking differently about ready-to-wear. “She’s younger,” he said of his woman this season, and the clothing is “more relaxed.” Exhibit A: the opener, a tweedy black drop-shoulder jacket with wide satin lapels that had the ease of a cardigan, and matching short skirt with feathery trim. Never mind that the allover studding could pose a problem when sitting: The look had charm, especially when worn with a studded headband and

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HP Sales Rise, but Fall Short of Estimates

HP’s sales missed Wall Street targets in the most recent quarter, but the company maintained its full-year outlook on adjusted profit.
WSJ.com: US Business

SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATES:

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Dawei RTW Fall 2019

If Dawei Sun was nervous ahead of the first runway show of his namesake label, he didn’t let on.
Describing his mood backstage, amid the flurry of last-minute primping, his words were, “happy, relaxed, calm, breathing — not feeling the stress.” Delivered in an unhurried, business-like manner, it was time — a message also conveyed through the sophisticated tailoring of the lineup that followed.
The bow was a source of some concern. “I’m stressed about heading out,” to address the audience, he noted.
Preceding his own, brief appearance on the catwalk, the collection proved to be a confident display of complex design techniques. Sun draws on the A-line shape, which he tries to offset by introducing masculine elements, constructing and deconstructing silhouettes, adding layers and folds along the way. One of the more elaborate looks, made from a crinkly, ultra light fabric, had a series of pleated folds — six of them — running across the front, from a shoulder down to the waist, before splitting open. Other outfits were built to look as if a coat had been tossed off the shoulders, left hanging unfolded across the back to reveal a logo tag. Fabrics ranged from thick, luxury wool twills to breezier

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Faith Connexion RTW Fall 2019

For the brand’s first runway presentation and his first full collection as creative director, Nikola Vasari succeeded in bringing together with casual ease streetwear influences with grunge and glam references inspired by music icons such as Courtney Love, Grace Jones and Lou Reed.
The lineup was a further step in a more focused direction for the edgy label, a balance of tailoring, flou and streetwear with an edge. There was some standout outerwear — a ruched jacket in green jacquard that Vasari described as a “party bomber” was among the most striking pieces.
Animal-print motifs were key to the glam vernacular, as on a zebra-print minidress in a holographic metallic fabric or bright prints in purple, red and black on some of the later flamboyant looks, while grunge references were seen in the form of distressed knitwear or the embroidered chains that adorned several designs.
Elsewhere, a hand-painted and fur-trimmed parka was pure Faith Connexion. Other outsized outerwear pieces were paired with racy looks, as in a dress made up of strips of lace like bandages across the body.
Dominated by a largely monochrome palette, the collection offered further pops of color in the form of a green sequined shift dress or the multicolored

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Ottolinger RTW Fall 2019

Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient doubled down on draping techniques to remake familiar pieces, yielding a sci-fi-infused lineup that was vigorous and sexy. Their game is one of subversion and the pair is known for sending traditional Swiss, mountain references like edelweiss flower patterns and laced bodices off on a psychedelic jaunt.
No flowers this season—fall is about knits—and a series of chunky weaves kicked off the show, setting a grungy tone: short skirts and tops in lime green, orange and black, with a bulging, oversized sleeves and strappy skin-baring shoulders. Exuberant patches of frayed tufts ran up and down some pieces. Chanel-flavored tweed sets were not an homage to Karl Lagerfeld—they had been designed well in advance of his passing—but with the late designer on everyone’s minds, the question came up backstage.
The pair works on the premise that beauty comes from the unexpected. “It’s always about treatment, more than destruction, maybe,” offered Gadient.
A tangle with high performance ski jackets — in technical fabrics — turned up some of the sexiest pieces, tucked closely at the waist, while added zippers highlighted body curves. A profusion of bared midriffs and thigh-high leggings brought further sensuality, offering flashes of skin among the piles

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Angel Chen RTW Fall 2019

Ominous tribal music played at Chinese designer Angel Chen’s fall 2019 coed collection, presented in Milan after a one-season stint in New York. The designer took inspiration from an ancient tribe called the Qiang people, a group of nomadic shepherds based in the Sichuan region.
Chen’s bright palette of orange, red and zingy yellow was taken from the Qiang’s ceremonial headdresses. The brand experimented with wool for the first time, including a six-color jacquard jacket that was dyed using Anofix, an environmentally friendly dye. Some of the looks were head-to-toe wool — trailing scarves and shorts masking as skirts on men, long fuzzy coats and macramé-like shawls on women — and will be presented as part of the 2019 edition of the International Woolmark Prize.
Lace embroideries were done using a laser technique and some silhouettes were crafted in recycled polyester, made from discarded plastic bottles. Puffa jackets had huge, quilt-like sleeves, while dark wash denim was paired with madras-printed pieces. Watches dangled from around necks, created in collaboration with FOB Paris, alongside feather trinkets and ribbons.
A true standout piece was the mountain boot with a rubber teeth-shaped sole bulging from underneath. “It’s a funny story — a friend of mine lost

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Bally RTW Fall 2019

It was Bally on the tracks this season: Models posed in elegant Alpine train cars designed by Patrick Kinmonth and Antonio Monfreda, while guests swilled tea and cocktails and made their way down the imagined corridors to have a look inside.
These cars, with their bright blue velvet seats and fabulous luggage on the racks — plus shearling backpacks and pouches, high-performance hiking boots with vintage laces, and logo sweaters — could certainly challenge the Orient Express. Kinmonth and Monfreda even filled their windows with videos of snowy mountains whipping past, on the way to ski heaven.
“We own the mountains, and wanted to go back to our roots, show the uniqueness of Switzerland, and the craftsmanship of the brand,” said Frédéric de Narp, Bally’s chief executive officer. He added that the company is gearing to open its first China flagship, in Beijing, in April, while in July, it will cut the ribbon on its Milan flagship on the corner of Via Montenapoleone and Via Manzoni. The three-floor space will span 6,000 square feet.
That’s a lot of room to fill, but Bally’s got it covered, what with its luxe-injected lineup of winter basics, such as buttery leather ski jackets and capes, some

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Fausto Puglisi RTW Fall 2019

Cultivating a strong identity is job number one in order to succeed in today’s crowded fashion market. Fausto Puglisi definitely knows what he loves and what he wants for his fashion house and has settled on maximalist flamboyance. His unapologetic devotion to it was at the core of his fall collection, which was a fun, appealing distillation of the designer’s obsessions, including hyper-feminine sensuality, Greek and Roman references and Baroque eccentricity.
Oversize bows, which made their debut with pre-fall, remained a focal point. They gave a glam and ironic feel to short, linear dresses and miniskirts crafted from a range of precious materials, including pink duchesse silk, leather, velvet combined with vinyl, and cotton. Inspired by a silky Ottoman carpet that Puglisi found at Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, he reworked the pattern and rendered it in a red and blue version on mini and maxidresses with generous sleeves and belt details putting the focus on the waist. Embellishments inspired by antique coins, striking colorblocking and mannish sartorial patterns defined his cashmere coats and enhanced the bold attitude of the collection.

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Fabiana Filippi RTW Fall 2019

Fabiana Filippi explored textures and colors for fall. Focusing on extensive fabric research, the brand juxtaposed materials with different finishings. Jacquards with abstract graphic patterns gave a rich, 3-D effect to coats worn with oversize knitwear and leather pants for a cool, urban attitude; sweaters showing asymmetric argyle motifs had a furry look, while a pink velvet puffer worn over a matching suit revealed iridescent reflections.
Expanding its proposal for special occasions, Fabiana Filippi presented dresses and skirts covered with a cascade of fringes, a frock worn with a tuxedo jacket combined organza and sequins and a knit top punctuated by crystals was paired with a feminine see-through maxi skirt.
The best results came when the brand embraced its original casual-chic attitude, demonstrated, for example, with a hooded shearling coat matched with a wrap top and comfortable pants, all worked in a warm caramel tone.

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Carlotta Canepa RTW Fall 2019

Carlotta Canepa is not one to shy away from prints but for fall she employed subtle necktie patterns in somber tones.
They were splashed on everything from silk shirts to a pair of cropped, wide-leg trousers featuring a macro medallion-shaped motif. The latter were paired with a striped shirt and floral vest in the same purple and dark fuchsia hues.
The designer, who launched her namesake label three years ago, drew inspiration from prints and fabrics she found in the archives of her family’s textile company, with geometric and paisley motifs taking center stage.
A couple of cozy, belted coats crafted from jacquard fil coupé featured a pattern inspired by Arctic populations’ traditional clothes. The same design peppered a floor-length shirtdress.
Although at times she went too far by piling up different patterns and prints, the collection was still accessible and wearable.

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Au Jour Le Jour RTW Fall 2019

Setting aside the ironic, playful graphics, which characterized their early efforts, Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana embraced a more urban, glamorous aesthetic.
“The irony is still there but is expressed in a different way,” said Marquez, referring in particular to the intentionally wrong proportions characterizing some of the pieces. For example, a pair of jeans showed an exaggerated high waist and a T-shirt had oversize, boxy shoulders.
A playful touch was introduced via fox fur coats worked in neon colors, also appearing on the threads giving an eye-catching touch to cable knit sweaters and minidresses, while a range of frocks, which seemed designed for young disco queens, featured precious crystal embroideries and cascades of degrade sequins.
Even if the designers’ intention to step out of their comfort zone is definitely remarkable, this collection, which missed a certain cohesiveness and probably the so-called X factor, demonstrated that Au Jour Le Jour still needs to find clear aesthetic codes to fully develop its repositioning strategy.

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Emilia Wickstead RTW Fall 2019

Emilia Wickstead immersed herself in “The Godfather” trilogy, enchanted by the quintessentially Southern Italian charm and refinement that defined Francis Ford Coppola’s film series.
For her latest fall presentation, she took over the Art Deco restaurant Le Caprice, hosting an intimate salon-style show and transporting her guests back to this nostalgic universe, complete with classic Italian music, head scarves, pearls and lavish fabrics galore.
The character of Mary Corleone — played by Sofia Coppola in the film — and her signature berets were at the center of the story line dreamed up by Wickstead.
The designer also drew from the men’s wear codes on-screen, delivering tailored jumpsuits and mannish coats in a traditional palette of chocolate brown, or draping leather over a suit — a reference to the movies’ distinct gangster vibe and abundance of leather jackets.
Wickstead ensured that she translated this old-school charm to her own universe of modern femininity. Cue androgynous wool tweeds done in midi dresses with voluminous long sleeves, pleated A-line dresses featuring wallpaper prints that could have easily been taken out of one of the lavish rooms on the movie set and romantic bouclé tweed suits accessorized with pearl-embellished headscarves, like the ones worn by Corleone.
For the finalé, Wickstead

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Osman RTW Fall 2019

Osman Yousefzada reveled in his flair for magpie dressing and told a tale of dark romance in his fall collection, paraded at his brand’s new London townhouse.
He layered fabrics, textures – and cultural references – to create a real visual feast: Skin-tight undergarments featured blown-up tattoo patterns peeked out from under draped organza gowns and tulle dresses; ruffle-trimmed leather jackets were worn with dramatic floral-embroidered veils; while sleek tailored looks were accessorized with ruffs.
Yousefzada amped up the drama of his evening wear. Consider a fuchsia feather-embellished gown, lamé shirt dresses or a black top featuring voluminous sequin frills.
The idea was to play with both soft and tougher fabrics and it created an interesting tension throughout the range. It was best captured in a woven black coat whose sharp, tailored structure was offset with cascading layers of tulle.
Yousefzada also made it a priority to experiment with new techniques and fabrications, including a series of vegan leather dresses and a checked coat, where suede and black vinyl squares were incorporated into a light, seamless fabric.
It was a compact collection that highlighted the designer’s sharpened focus on one-of-a-kind, crafty pieces.

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Victoria Beckham RTW Fall 2019

Victoria Beckham staged the show at one of her favorite London places, Tate Britain, and its soaring ceilings and studious air made a fitting backdrop for the designer’s fall collection, which had a bookish, Seventies feel to it. The designer took her bow in a trouser-and-sweater combo, layered over a white shirt with a long, pointy collar and cuffs.
Beckham’s gal took to the runway in checked pencil skirts or flared trousers, some paired with fuzzy argyle knits or cropped ones in Easter egg tones of turquoise, purple and lilac. Many of them were layered over white blouses with those snazzy Seventies collars. There was a rich lineup of dresses, too, which Beckham said is the core of the business.
They came with fuzzy sweater tops and woven skirts, or in breezy chain-printed silk with a gently gathered waist, while nubby knit ones hugged all the right curves. Coats made a strong statement, too: bright red with high slashes at the back or a camel number that could transform into a cape. A standout check wool one had a delicate dusting of sequins at the hem.
Beckham, who launched her YouTube channel Sunday morning with a live stream of the show, said she

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Phoebe English Shows Fall 2019 Collection in Exhibition Alongside 30 Marionettes

EXHIBITIONIST: Phoebe English showcased pieces from her fall 2019 women’s wear offering at the Morley Gallery in South London at an exhibition called “Inanimate, Animate. (Only) Half the Reflection,” a show in two parts, the second of which features 30 charming marionettes wearing to-scale pieces from her archive.
The person-sized clothes, which made their debut during the men’s shows last month in a presentation, were suspended from the ceiling on rotating mechanisms that afforded close-up inspection of the intricate techniques that have earned her a loyal following.
There was a black pinafore dress with T-shaped cuts outlined with wide satin stitch embroidery, and a delicate white mesh harness.
“We call this coat, ‘The Coat of Dreams (and of Nightmares)’,” said English, fondly nodding to a black topper made from a great many patches of recycled black fabric, each piece encased in fine silk tulle. The kind of deceptively simple, thing that a cursory glance sets the mind to thinking, “Right, black coat” but an up-close eye-ball reveals all its complexities.
The space was scented by Timothy Han, who used the aromas of birch tar and dry wheat from his “On the Road” fragrance to emphasize English’s focus on natural sustainable fabrics, and Johanna Burnheart performed

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Kiko Kostadinov RTW Fall 2019

Australian twins Laura and Deanna Fanning, Kiko Kostadinov’s women’s wear designers, do a lot of research and it was while paging through the “portraits” section of their compendium that they rediscovered sepia photographs of 19th Century Central American “bandidas” and “pistoleras”, in other words, highwaymen of the female persuasion.
They fused those frontier references with nods to 1988 fantasy sci-fi film “On The Silver Globe”, a Polish movie ostensibly about cosmic exploration and primitive cultures, resulting in a pleasing mix of shirting stripes and velvet with metallic knits, performance fabrics and retro-futuristic details.
The silhouettes drew upon Victorian elements like leg of mutton sleeves and elbow-length cuffs, the latter translated into separate gauntlet-like pieces worn on one arm. “We were struck by the toughness of the female outlaws but also the femininity in the clothes they wore,” Deanna Fanning, Kostadinov’s girlfriend, told WWD. “There was all this draping and gathering.”
Those details could be seen at the full gathers of exaggerated sleeves, in the ruches of panels and in the cuffed ankles of trousers, and looked great in the duck egg blue trouser suit, with red tuxedo stripe, and jacket with black waist panels that mimicked panniers. And tall lace-up boots, via a

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Creatures of the Wind RTW Fall 2019

In 2017, Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters, designers of Creatures of the Wind, decided to shift their business to a project-driven, rather than season-driven, model. Like many designers trying to figure out how to survive the shifting industry tides, they did some soul-searching, which could well be fall 2019 New York Fashion Week’s biggest trend. It brought them to Tuesday night, when they presented their first runway collection in a year at the Pratt Institute campus in Brooklyn, where Gabier is a visiting professor in the fashion department.
Instead of a soundtrack, they tapped trend forecaster Faith Popcorn to deliver a short lecture about the realities that got them to this point — the planet in peril, the new gender-fluidity norm, buying based on social values — as models paraded around the school auditorium in upcycled looks made of vintage or deadstock.
“There are so many parts of the process of making and selling clothes that we’ve never totally been comfortable with,” Gabier said before the show, recalling a moment when the designers looked at an endless rack of black pants at their distribution warehouse that made them feel “sick to their stomachs.” “That…didn’t feel like luxury,” Peters added. “We felt like

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Marc Jacobs RTW Fall 2019

“You have to come to New York to see a private couture show.”
That observation came from no less an aficionado of the haute genre than Sidney Toledano. Surely the couture notion crossed some other minds of those exiting the Marc Jacobs show on Wednesday night after what was a dazzling display of fashion.
Jacobs scaled everything back but the fashion impact. He showed 40 looks, fewer than his typical 60-plus, to an audience far smaller than usual. Yet he kept the show at the vast Park Avenue Armory, where he installed a reflective black glass floor and hired the American Contemporary Music Ensemble to perform live. He positioned the quartet off in a corner, far from the runway but well-lit and very much in view as the models proceeded out, each commanding the space solo and exiting fully before the next girl emerged. It all coalesced into a haunting dialogue between intimacy and distance.
The clothes were exquisite. “Each [look] will be an exaggeration of our view of who each of the women is,” Jacobs said during a preview. “For lack of a better word, it’s like a cabine of women we love.” Perhaps the most loved: Christy Turlington Burns, who last

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Batsheva RTW Fall 2019

Batsheva Hay hosted a sort of theater piece to present her fall collection. While a few women were working at sewing machines, the models, including actress Christina Ricci and musician Melissa Auf der Maur, walked down the stairs of an empty retail location in SoHo after reading small excerpts of love songs at the microphone. They were dressed in frocks and separates that were inspired by “me being taken around the Salvation Army when I was a teenager,” the designer said before the show.
The brand’s signature prairie dresses, cut with high necklines and pouf shoulders trimmed in ruffles, were rendered this season in a range of fabrics — from red velvet and a shiny orange silk taffeta to a cloth printed with images of Holly Hobbie. The same motif also gave a retro, childlike feel to cropped pants with ruffled cuffs, which were matched with a floral top. A blue apron dress revealed a sweet Peter Pan collar, while a rose-shaped application embellished a ruffled frock crafted from a white and green striped cotton. Though the collection was heavy on Hay’s signature dresses, they were juxtaposed by a few separates and an outerwear style, a dark green velvet coat embellished

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The Row RTW Fall 2019

Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have become a bit like the Greta Garbos of the New York fashion world, preferring to stay in the background, refusing to give pre- or post-show interviews, or offer up much intel on collection inspirations, materials or much of anything else. But you know what, it works for them, and is on-brand for a pair of child stars-turned-fashion designers who now value anonymity as the ultimate luxury.
Over the last 13 years — yes, it’s really been that long — The Row has established itself as the gold standard in New York for timeless tailoring (the new Calvin, perhaps) and loose, luxe layers using the kind of materials (900 gram cashmere) that would stack up to any European luxury brand any day. And each season, the designers still manage to generate some measure of newness within their classic canon.
For fall 2019, there was a new waist-defining silhouette along with their signature cloaking volumes. Consider the first look, a generously cut blazer over a diaphanous ivory funnel neck dress, worn with the most expensive looking black rubber boots this side of Glastonbury. Deceptively simple, it was superbly executed, with a cowl neck that read as delicate-but-protecting.
The collection returned to

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Prabal Gurung Fall 2019

“I’m calling this collection ‘Suitcases of the World,’” Prabal Gurung said backstage Sunday night before his fall show. He should know — the Nepalese-American designer spent almost as much time on the road last year as he did at home in New York.
He was in Kathmandu, India, China and points beyond, and all that globetrotting inspired his latest vision of a glamorous nomad through an immigrant’s lens, because, as he said with characteristic political directness, “We are more alike than we are different.”
The effort resulted in a multi-culti collage of colors and styles, anchored in sporty standards like quilted duvet coats, bombers, safari jackets and cargo pants. Onto that he added hippie trail artisanal touches like tie-dye, hand-loomed Varanasi brocades and hand-painted Taj Mahal landscapes, as well as layering in the ladylike sophistication of Seventies-era Bill Blass, Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix, fashion heroes that surely enthralled a dreamer growing up on the other side of the world.
Gurung is one of New York’s best colorists; case in point, a pink-and-red silk crepe blouse framed in cascading ruffles, tucked into turquoise high-waisted pleat-front trousers. The pattern play was great, too; this season’s version of his signature draped dress with buttoned waist

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Christian Siriano RTW Fall 2019

It was a moon shot to have a show with the kind of star power and fandom Christian Siriano draws at the Top of the Rock, on the 64th floor of 30 Rock in Rockefeller Center. From the get-go, it was obvious the door staff was in over their heads. Lines were long, elevators slow, tempers flaring. It took nearly an hour for guests to ride upstairs, get seated, and in the case of the famous front row, be interviewed by “Extra” and every other celebrity outlet. Poor Jonathan Simkhai, who had the next show on the schedule, must have been tapping his foot down at Industria Studios thinking he had the day wrong.
Siriano, who dressed a record 17 people for the 2018 Oscars and “Vanity Fair” party, is a very good red-carpet designer, someone who has created a new paradigm for inclusive celebrity dressing, and figured out how to dress lots of shapes and sizes to look good on camera. And everyone in his starry front row on Saturday looked outstanding, including Mariska Hargitay wearing a celestial-patterned black velvet pantsuit, and Christina Hendricks in a black sleeveless tuxedo bustier and cigarette pants.
But there can be a disconnect when it comes

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Graham Tyler RTW Fall 2019

Young designer Graham Tyler wears many hats. In the literal sense, he brings to the table a background in millinery, but that is just the beginning. His avant-garde sensibility also stems from a meditation on his studies of sculpture and his visceral sense of memory.
“It’s about losing a home, and how to give yourself that home back in the things you wear,” he said. He was also thinking about his grandmother, who had recently passed away, and about the town in upstate New York where both his parents and grandparents had grown up. Another reference he mentioned was his early fascination with the Amish.
All that might sound super heady, but Tyler distilled it into a straightforward collection of classic shapes that he imbued with his sense of textiles and whimsy to make an interesting second collection.
Highlights include digitally printed knits, structured blazers and an Italian half-boiled wool oversized quilt jacket lined in hand-painted muslin. He integrated his hat-making training by shaping and steaming a grosgrain ribbon, normally used as a trim on hats, to make collars and treatments on an vintage-looking black dress.
Each piece has some sort of novelty, be it poetry on buttons, or coordinates of the town he

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Badgley Mischka RTW Fall 2019

During a backstage interview before the show, Mark Badgley and James Mischka cited post-war American glamour and the colors of Fifties’ Mercedes car bodies as the main inspirations behind their fall collection.
What really captured the attention, though, was the designers’ shift toward more streamlined and sharp silhouettes for an elegance injected with sartorial appeal. Long dresses, including styles with plunging V-necks, enriched with jewelry-like details or a cascade of sparkling sequins, came laser cut for a precise look, while an off-the-shoulder draped gown with generous sleeves and embroidered cuffs was crafted from a comfortable jersey fabric.
While their signature frocks — offered in an array of silhouettes and materials, including a minimal black design revealing a delicate sequined bow on the back — as always took center stage in the collection, the lineup also included elegant evening suits, such as the opening sequined style featuring a softly constructed tailored blazer cinched at the waist with a coordinated belt.
The runway show cheerfully closed with a parade of red dresses, spanning from beaded and fringed designs to ones covered with feathers. Some might say “predictable,” but who doesn’t love a charming red dress to make a bold entrance into the holiday

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Greta Constantine RTW Fall 2019

Going into the fall season, Greta Constantine designers Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong landed on three central ideas: modesty, volume and carbon footprint. During a recent trip to Dubai, the designers were “mesmerized how these [Emirate] women were made up and wearing their burkas — their clothing, just the way they are — they weren’t even trying to be modest. It was just their lifestyle and we thought, ‘We don’t have to show too much skin to be sexy,’” Pickersgill reminisced. “That trip did leave lasting impressions,” Wong added.
While past seasons included slinky, leggy silhouettes, the duo played with proportions and layering for fall. Great long-sleeve sequined bodysuits and turtlenecks were layered under, well, everything. With gray boiled wool separates or dresses, the looks fell flat, but when piled under varying voluminous silhouettes — a high-neck tulle jacket, liquid Lurex dresses with sizable poet’s sleeves or brocade puffed-outerwear — the concept soared. The strongest look included a silver lame floor-length gown with puffed shoulders atop an all black long-sleeve sequined turtleneck. “Completely covered up but out there, still the center of attention,” Wong expressed.
Dipping their toes into reducing their carbon footprint, the duo decided to dig into their archives,

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NYFW: Designers’ Men’s Fall 2019 Inspirations

New York always offers a diverse group of designers, with aesthetics that range from classic men’s wear to streetwear, and even nonbinary. As the last round of the men’s fall runway season gets under way, brands offer a peek into their inspiration this season — everything from technical sport and the California desert rock scene from the Sixties to  uniforms for the modern-day cannabis ambassadors.
 
“Combining robust flannel, washed tweeds and vintage velvets — the contrasting textures, hues and patterns in the Joseph Abboud fall 2019 collection are as unique and diverse as the immigrants who helped found this country.” — Joseph Abboud
“This season, art — an integral strand of the Boss DNA — is our starting point. We take on the role of curator, traveling the world in search of creative ideas, and have stopped in New York. The gallery district in Chelsea has inspired the design, creation and curation of the new fall collection.” — Ingo Wilts, chief brand officer, Boss
“Dyne fall 2019 stays true to its technical sports-inspired roots, elevating the materials through texture and color and inspired by the beautiful outdoors of the Oregon Painted Hills. Tailoring is at its roots as always and fabrics have been sculpted

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Markarian RTW Fall 2019

“I’m saying that this collection reminds me of ‘the Medicis going to the disco,’ which is a ridiculous quote,” Markarian designer Alexandra O’Neill demurred. As unrealistic as the idea might sound, her stellar fall lineup seamlessly melded fanciful femininity with sparkling disco fever.
Gowns came in velvets, traditional brocades and classic floral prints with puffed sleeves and dramatic ruffles, but given a modern edge with shimmering, glitzy details. For instance, a black velvet ballgown and fanciful velvet “tracksuit” both came festooned with rhinestone trimming, while a floral brocade gown boasted a dramatic ruffled bust. 
Channeling a more obvious disco vibe were dazzling minis: a holographic pink wrap dress with puffed shoulders and bow made of a viscose fabric that “would literally go up in flames” according to O’Neill, or a really great ruched black-and-white spotted number. Playful details — hearts, bows, flowers, rhinestone belts — adorned dresses and separates throughout, adding to the fun femininity. Each piece in the 40-look collection was strong, but melding the two ideas into her aesthetic is where O’Neill’s collection truly shone. 

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Todd Snyder Men’s Fall 2019

Todd Snyder transported guests to his basement, circa 1970 — think green carpeting and wood paneling — for his fall runway show.
The first look — a chocolate brown corduroy parka over a black-and-white checkerboard sweater with high-waisted pegged officer’s pants — set the perfect Seventies tone. Other Seventies throwbacks included a cognac-colored leather topcoat with a newsboy cap and a large assortment of shaggy dog sweaters.
“It’s all about irreverent prep and mixing East End boys with a bit of a street edge,” Snyder said backstage before the show.
His use of haberdashery-style shirts that looked more like thrift store finds, and a reconstructed Iowa State hoodie — the designer’s alma mater — paired with tight velvet sweatpants drove the point home.
The true highlights of the show were the outerwear collaborations with Descente, the high-end Osaka-based ski brand. Snyder put his own take on the technical gear by using English fabrics in fitted parkas. Other outerwear included oversize statement coats that Snyder called “sleeper puffers,” another collaboration with Crescent Down Works.
The vivid color palette of oranges, purples and jewel greens added an extra layer to the already athletic offering and were also employed on Snyder’s assortment of suits and tailored topcoats.
The collection stuck to

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Paula Canovas del Vas RTW Fall 2019

It probably was a good call for London-based designer Paula Canovas del Vas to show her ready-to-wear collection during Paris Couture Week, a traditional setting that made her high-voltage silhouettes all the more striking.
Inspired by the surrealist work of film director Alejandro Jodorowsky, Canovas del Vas, a Central Saint Martins graduate, played with volumes, proportions and materials with abandon. There were bright orange fringe dresses, faux fur skirts, short coats and gloves, exaggerated bunched-up shoulders and a couple of cycling shorts. Technical materials like Lycra were paired with wool creations embossed with giant flower motifs, an old technique popular in the South of Spain, where the designer hails from.
Hair was twisted in aerials sticking up from the models’ heads and curving devil’s horns protruded from the front of tops. Mohair shoes — the “Diablo” flats and boots, real showstoppers — were a true work of art, made by eight different artisans.
“There is a real sense of craft to what I do, everything is handmade,” Canovas del Vas said backstage. Bringing together the OTT aesthetic of East London, where her studio is based, and the traditional craftsmanship of Murcia, the Southern Spain region where her family is from, the designer’s creations are both an accurate

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Yeohlee RTW Fall 2019

“Yeohlee throws herself a challenge,” the designer said of her namesake fall collection during a preview at her store. Never mind the mathematical or geometric undertones of her deceptively minimalist designs. She was speaking to the season’s sustainable arc, where she dived into years worth of archival fabric and inventory to create a wholly upcycled range.
Sustainability is arguably the most widely discussed issue facing the fashion industry today, and it’s become an umbrella term for a range of good practices. For Yeohlee Teng, it means endurance, and being able to reinvent old fabrics for the modern day. There were a host of standouts, including a neon day-glo fabric from 2003 cut into an athletic-leaning jacket and joggers, plum melange silk taffeta from 2008 rendered into languid pants cut on the bias, and silk duchess satin from the Nineties reimagined into a voluminous yet lightweight baseball jacket that maintained a great ballooning shape.
Cohesion was Teng’s biggest challenge, and she managed to unify looks with a sculptural and modernist hand that held a gender-ambiguous thread. Outerwear highlighted these elements best, and included a wide-neck coat with high-low hem that was actually one width of square fabric, and a regal black-and-silver duchess satin

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Kobi Halperin RTW Fall 2019

Fall marks four years since Kobi Halperin launched his line, and as such, the designer was feeling nostalgic about beginnings, in terms of both the brand and his personal life. An avid traveler, Halperin often mines the cultures of far-flung locales to influence an aesthetic heavy on prints and detailed embroidery. He didn’t disappoint in those areas, offering a breadth of warm, inviting patterns culled from carpet textiles in his homeland of Israel.
Upon first glance, there was noticeable variety in terms of color, texture and patterns. It was a lot, and all quite polished and elegant given the mashup of prints. There was a seamless blend of skirts with washed out rug patterns and the ornate novelty blouses for which he’s known, and with graphic ikat separates complementing crushed velvet tops with vintage-leaning baroque embroidery. It wasn’t all so literal — white lace was created with carpet motifs Halperin brought back from flea markets in Tel Aviv, and feathers punctuating elevated knitwear mirrored decorative tassels that framed rugs. He was drawn to carpets for their connotations of comfort and feeling at home.
He made a point to highlight a casual element the Kobi way through silky blouses with puff shoulders, crushed

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Isabel Marant Étoile RTW Fall 2019

For her secondary label, Isabel Marant doubled down on comfort, considering what she would want to wrap herself up in when the weather turned chilly. A fuzzy plaid shirt thus became a poncho, its zip-up collar adjustable for extra warmth. An oversize, quilted vest, too, looked cozy — it had texture, in the form of braid patterns — and smart, as well, cinched at the waist with a leather belt. The designer was equipping her young, fashion-conscious customer with solid outerwear that doubled as a protective layer.
Another example came in the form of a thick brown leather jacket, like a pilot’s jacket from the last century, repurposed for a new era — the shoulders had Eighties-style extra puff. A pale purple sweatshirt was embellished with quilted shoulder patches, and an acid-washed jean jacket had a fuzzy wool collar.
For dressier occasions, she offered an elegant black lace dress, snug in all the right places for sexiness, and an extra ruffle for a touch of the romantic. Her peasant blouses had large sleeves and two ruffles on each shoulder. 
She kept her waists high and the sweaters chunky, for the most part. The collection was all about being in the comfort zone: the

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From Flowers to Feather Eyelashes: See the Best Beauty Looks From Fashion Week Fall 2019

Fashion Week Beauty LooksWhen it comes to hair and makeup at fashion week, practically anything is possible.
As fashion month kicks off once again, designers have been unveiling their latest creations on…

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Bella Hadid, NYFW 2016, FallDesigners pull out all the stops to make their shows memorable during Fashion Week.
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Dunhill Men’s Fall 2019

Building on his distinctive aesthetic for the house, Mark Weston continued his tweaking of the classic wardrobe, pushing a dressier, evening vibe underscored by a dark palette mixing gray, black and navy with optic white.
The designer tinkered with proportions, like the boxy looking double-breasted jackets, especially one in an oversize check print. New directions included the total looks based on a matching pant, jacket and funnel-neck top in the same fabric.
Details added elements of cool: the buckle belt worn off-center, kimono lapels on classic double-breasted jackets, which lent a minimalist flavor, and slits at the hem of large pants to make them flare over the shoe.
Weston continued mixing traditional pieces with leather, spanning T-shirts and shirts with white stitching details on the collar, with black velvet among the key fabrics.
His use of feminine moiré silks and a peppering of jewel tones on cummerbunds and a parka towards the end added a luxurious touch. Ditto for a striking brown print evoking the walnut burl interiors of a vintage Rolls-Royce or Jaguar.

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Kenzo Fall 2019

A burst of psychedelic color and pattern greeted guests on the way into the show, which drew from designer Humberto Leon’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage and the culture of the Chinese immigrants who settled in the South American country in the 19th century. The giant hot pink, red and green murals by the shaman artist Pablo Amaringo came from visions he had while taking the hallucinogenic brew Ayahuasca.
Leon and Carol Lim looked at the cultural brew of Peru, with its hikers, tourists, natives and ethnic Chinese communities, sending out color-block technical coats and trousers, striped and patterned knits and blanket plaids for belted coats. The darker pieces worked better than the highlighter pink and rose print ones: It will take one bold man to scale the Andes in those colors, although the upside is that he’ll always be easy to spot. Tailored top coats, in burgundy or with lava lamp swirls were among the strongest pieces here.
The women’s collection channeled a similar palette, but there was lots of added texture in the form of fluffy hats, shawls, scarves and bags done in faux fur and rippling with searing bright pink, aqua and saffron. Other highlights included fringed or fuzzy knits, recycled raffia

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Unravel Men’s Fall 2019

The offering of men’s looks was a lot more limited than past seasons at Unravel. “It’s probably half of what it used to be,” admitted creative director Ben Taverniti, speaking at the brand’s showroom in Paris. “I felt like over the seasons my aesthetic got lost, so I shrunk back in order to recreate this foundation and then build back as we go along.”
The small collection in a select color palette – black, white, grey – allowed for the style innovations to shine. Layering, a favorite theme, was pushed to extremes, especially on the lower level of the body: a pair of drop-crotch pants was worn with thick socks and high-top shoes, covering every inch in different layers of texture.
Zips were added to the sides of black down jackets: once open, the garment looked almost cape-like. The action exposed the different volumes underneath, like a layered denim jacket or a fine-knit cashmere.
Straps dangled along trouser legs and hoodies came printed with a torn-looking brand logo mirroring the deconstructed collages created by the team to illustrate the season’s lookbook. Analog pictures of American natural landscapes were scanned and added to the collection pictures in a nod to Taverniti’s design process. “I

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Vetements Men’s and Women’s Fall 2019

“We ended up realizing that the geeks have become the new punks by inventing the smartphone, something that changed the whole world,” said Demna Gvasalia, tackling a new subject on the Vetements runway: the Internet, especially the Darknet. That includes “all the crazy, scary things that we can acquire there or use in the backstage of what we know as the Internet. How far can it go?”
It came through partly in the graphic work and slogans on hoodies and T-shirts that Gvasalia has been using since the start of the label. He used the T-shirt — “a product that is part of the fashion vocabulary, like it or not,” he reasoned — as a sounding board for what he and members of his team have on their mind and how they see the world. Slogans ranged from, “I survived swine flu, now I’m vegan,” to “Made in Europe,” with as one of the key graphics a president-themed stamp. Backpacks were decorated with scary faces, complete with creepy floor-sweeping trails of hair, while shrugs were made from disemboweled teddy bears.
Gvasalia said, “after five years doing Vetements, looking for my Balenciaga, my Vetements, separating those things and making sure I enjoy doing those

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OAMC Men’s Fall 2019

Tailoring is shouldering its way back into men’s wear, often with multiple layers made from the same fabric. This is how Luke Meier opened his assured show for fall, with its undercurrent of Seattle grunge and other sly Nineties references.
He’s skilled at voluptuous, large shapes, managing to make his oversized coats and shirts look chic and elegant, never sloppy. Meier employed lots of gray wool, which heightened the utilitarian undercurrent always present in his OAMC designs.
The hospital green vinyl walls were a wink to Matthew Barney’s “Cremaster” series, and the kink of Barney’s art performances surfaced in the latex turtlenecks, illustrated carrier bags and a butter-toned trench that undulated like jelly. Clinical pastels and checked patterns added some cheer to the austere shapes.
Meier’s roomy, tone-on-tone suits and coats were among the show’s strongest looks, with boxy gray wool jackets layered over long double-breasted coats and generously cut trousers. Some of them had a workwear feel, while others were more sartorial.
Other standouts included oversized check shirts and coats with a touch of Kurt Cobain, while bags and T-shirts showcased the freeform line drawings of Meier’s friend, the artist and musician Daniel Johnston. Meier said that, going forward, OAMC plans to work

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Han Kjobenhavn Men’s Fall 2019

Speaking a couple of days before his brand’s first show in Paris, Jannik Wikkelso Davidsen confided it proved tricky to find a suitable venue for his planned set design, as he needed somewhere with a 10- to 15-meter-high ceiling. The result didn’t disappoint: a dystopian Denmark greeted guests at the Han Kjobenhavn show on Tuesday night, complete with towering concrete blocks and structures seemingly made of urban junk, such as a cluster of television aerials.
The theme of the collection was “Fairytale Denmark,” riffing on the idealized perception of the country by foreigners. Davidsen’s Denmark, inspired by his upbringing in suburban Copenhagen, is fierce and gritty: outdated-looking “Visit Denmark” sweatshirts were paired with baggy trousers and colorful track pants, worn by scowling youths who looked straight out of an underground club.
The designs were based around items Nineties teenagers would steal from their parents’ closet and match with their own: a football jersey was seen peeking out from underneath an oversized dad suit, leather and shearling jackets looked clearly borrowed, especially when paired with bright sweatpants or embellished jeans.
Expected Nineties nods – bare midriffs, plaid jackets, XXL knit jumpers – felt fresh thanks to clever styling, and the whole collection had a grunge

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No. 21 Men’s Fall 2019

After a sea of bright colors and a season of streetwear and logos, Alessandro Dell’Acqua served up a refined and elegant palette cleanser while still keeping it super young.
The starting point was cult classic, Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s sailor movie “Querelle de Brest.” “Not the muscles, but rather the fragility of the sailors when together,” the designer said backstage.
The cute navy and red sailor knits were the obvious till ringers. But the designer in his delivery — a super clean Nineties allure with tailored proportions — also succeeded in softening the nuances and subculture references, and make it more approachable in a young, non-threatening way, without losing impact.
That included a great black leather shirt cut with a larger collar to make it feel casual and less costume-y.
He combined new technology with classic fabrics, going from a vinyl-like coated poplin used on jackets and pants to a coat cut from black radzimir. It lent a hint of eroticism and mystery to the collection, much like the great closing parka presented fully unzipped and off the shoulder, like an evening gown, only worn over a crisp white shirt and tie.

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MSGM Men’s Fall 2019

Massimo Giorgetti’s Sunday got off to a turbo-charged start in this dynamic homage to motor racing culture, mixing in tailoring and a Nineties post-punk attitude, Milano style.
The motorsport theme came through most literally in the flame-licked denim, logo T-shirts, archive photos of Ayrton Senna printed in shirts, and color-blocked shiny leathers with gathered drawstring waists.
Channeling a vitamin-charged energy, meanwhile, were the pink and orange neon K-ways in crunchy technical nylon, interspersed with gray and beige total looks with more of a Made-in-Italy bent, with puffers and leopard-print fleeces layered over elegant double-breasted wool coats. Giving a symbolic hometown nod were the black sweatshirts embroidered with the outline of the Madonnina topping the spire of Milan’s Duomo cathedral, part of the city’s skyline.
Tailoring in the expanded collection ranged from boxy double-breasted pinstripe blazers to the designer’s take on the new suit, pairing a zipped top and pant with the word ‘proibito,’ or ‘forbidden,’ printed on the fly.
The designer’s collaboration with Fila, on the brand’s 1992 Silva model, came strung from fanny packs worn by some of the models, with square-toed boots punctuating most of the looks.
Dynamic black-and-white scenes from the Eighties Japanese soccer-themed cartoon “Holly & Benji” surfaced in jacquards on

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Biuu Men’s Fall 2019

The Shanghai-based label designed by Wu Hao looked to opposites, outer space and the ancient Mayans for this polished collection of streetwear and tailored clothing. Tracksuits and slim boiler suits came color blocked, with pixel patterns or sparkling panels, while a puffer coat had a wavy optical grid print. Hao’s knits and tailored outerwear were standouts, as in a loose orange waffle knit sweater, and another with the image of an astronaut on the back. A dove gray car coat glistened as if it was wet while another, longer one was blindingly bright thanks to a flourish of neon yellow quilting that may well turn France’s “gilets jaunes” green with envy. An orange coat was tempered by the addition of a sleeveless, black leather vest, while stripes in primary colors jazzed up a few sober gray plaid jackets. Since he began showing in Milan last January, Hao has been looking to impress audiences in Europe and Asia-Pacific with his designs, and is making progress with two flagship stores in Shanghai.

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Highlights From the Fall Offering at Pitti Uomo

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

Brunello Cucinelli 
Simone Lezzi/WWD

Designer: Brunello Cucinelli
Inspiration: The luxury label found the inspiration for its new collection in the elegance of the Fifties. Calling the lineup “Gentleman at Ease,” Cucinelli offered a relaxed take on classic tailoring. The brand, which this season enlarged its booth at Pitti Uomo, returned the focus to its wide offering of suits, which ranged from effortless-chic styles targeting the new generation of men to evening options. In keeping with this renewed attention on suits, Cucinelli recently introduced in key stores a made-to-measure program that enables shoppers to create customized tailoring styles while experiencing the brand’s Italian lifestyle in dedicated areas offering high-end facilities and services.
Key Styles: In the suiting range, while jackets were cut close to the body, Fifties-inspired high-waisted pants with double pleats were among a selection of wider, comfortable silhouettes. Fabrics spanned from traditional wools and cashmeres to flannels, corduroy and velvet. Knitwear took center stage with cozy crewneck and V-neck sweaters, sometimes embellished with sporty-chic tennis details that showed rich melange effects. The color palette focused on neutral tones of gray, blue and beige, enriched with accents of warm dark red and deep purple hues. — Alessandra Turra
 
Z ZEGNA

ZZegna 
Simone Lezzi/WWD

Designer: Alessandro Sartori
Inspiration: Innovation was

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Oil’s Fall Threatens U.S. Shale Drillers

Plunging oil prices once again threaten to force American shale drillers to pull back on production, just as they were preparing to unleash a flood of crude.
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Canali Men’s Fall 2019

After seasons of unveiling its collections at Milan Fashion Week, Canali made a comeback to Florence with an evening event hosted inside the prestigious Palazzo Antinori. This was a smart move for the brand, as opting for a presentation format managed to openly showcase the high-end quality of its men’s offering. In keeping with current trends, Canali refreshed its tailoring with a relaxed, leisurewear-inspired approach. Graphic urban jackets were crafted from luxury fabrics, while cashmere coats featured sporty details, including detachable nylon hoodies. Corduroy pants were matched with turtlenecks with an artisan feel and country-chic blazers, while the elegant attitude of pin-striped suits was tempered by the narrow coats peppered by macro houndstooth patterns. Cozy alpaca and mohair gave a cozy, warm feel to the overcoats, highlighting the collection’s overall sense of luxurious comfort.

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Bethany Williams Men’s Fall 2019

Bethany Williams’ third collection was called “Adelaide House,” after a women’s shelter in Liverpool that caters to the needs of females, including domestic abuse, homelessness and post-imprisonment — one of only six such facilities in the U.K.
Williams tapped the talents of artist Giorgia Chiarion for this season, resulting in a series of portraits of Adelaide House residents and abstract paintings of Liverpool’s landscape, the latter of which Williams incorporated into the lineup.
Liverpool, in England’s north, is generally accepted to be a fairly gray sort of place, but Chiarion depicted it in bold primary shades that, in turn, were applied to Williams’ playful coed collection made, as always, from recycled and organic materials.
She worked with the Liverpool Echo newspaper to utilize newspaper waste, coating thin strips in wax then weaving it — through the aid of San Patrignano, a drug rehabilitation center in Italy — into a richly textured material, which Williams put to work in a nice A-line coat with patch pockets and a boxy shirt jacket and matching trousers.
She used recycled denim in jackets and jeans, printed with Chiarion’s abstract shapes, or in a clean off-white boiler suit featuring the delicate line-drawn portraits of Adelaide House.
The star look of the

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JordanLuca Men’s Fall 2019

Design duo Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto told their fall 2019 story, through the lens of an obsessive, insomniac predator.
“We were fully focused on this one kind of man and this idea of him staring at the ceiling at night,” said Marchetto, pointing to the mattresses that hang on the walls of the brand’s presentation space. “We wanted to tilt the room and look from above.”
It made for a niche but compelling narrative.
The obsessive quality of this character they constructed, pushed the designers to deliver a carefully edited range filled with standout patterns, luxe fabrics and complex structures — the kind that you would find in the wardrobe of a man who “knows everything about himself.”
There were slim tailored suits in abstract jacquard fabrics — inspired by the look of mattresses over time — smart double-breasted coats layered over printed tracksuits and oversized parkas featuring layered panels or cartoonish prints, taken from Sixties soft porn magazines.
The duo also played with contrasts, layering feminine crinkled organza shirts under classic, argyle-knit vests or adding a more formal feel to tracksuits with corseted tops, reflecting the overall move away from sportswear that’s been happening across the London catwalks.
“Sportswear is the wrong word for

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Apple Beware: Samsung’s Great Fall in China Was Swift

Apple’s stumble in China is an all-too-familiar story for rival Samsung Electronics. In five years, the iPhone’s biggest rival went from China’s No. 1 phone maker to an also-ran.
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Qasimi Men’s Fall 2019

Played out on a set three levels underground, Khalid Qasimi showed a collection that had toughened up since last season while still retaining his signature romantic optimism.
“It’s today’s vision of what’s going to happen next because we’re all questioning what will happen next,” said Qasimi. “None of us know what will happen next socially, culturally.”
He sent his urban nomads on an exploratory trip to the near future, where they were turned out in boxy shirts, rounded bomber jackets, cargo pants and some gorgeous coats in olive, navy and plum cashmere wool.
The notion of protection, an essential in the uncharted future, was explored through biker padding, which looked lovely in the subtle elbow panels on white shirts and in the ruched belts secured by nylon webbing, and in layering experiments in looks like the cropped jacket in deep grape wool worn over a black hoodie and paired with a pair of neon yellow silk track pants.
Other hits included many-pocketed flak jackets or roomy biker styles done out in shiny nylon or stiff cotton, and a padded biker jacket that had “Searching For The Unknown” embroidered in Islamic calligraphy on the back and was worn with matching nylon sweatpants.
A navy sweatshirt bore a fortifying

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Apple Beware: Samsung’s Great Fall in China Was Swift

Apple’s stumble in China is an all-too-familiar story for rival Samsung Electronics. In five years, the iPhone’s biggest rival went from China’s No. 1 phone maker to an also-ran.
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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2019: What to See, Eat and Where to Shop

LONDON — The first weekend in January is never an easy one, but London has the antidote, with a lineup of streetwear and luxury stores and restaurants serving everything from classic British to Taiwanese food, all of which will be open during London Fashion Week Men’s.

London store End. 
Peter Cook

END OF THE LINE: British property group Shaftesbury has expanded its retail portfolio, opening the first London outpost for the online men’s wear store, End. Occupying 9,000 square feet on the corner of Broadwick and Marshall Streets, the two-story glass-fronted space offers a range of collections from labels including Off-White, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Nike and Adidas Consortiums. The store, which already has units in Newcastle, England, and Glasgow, Scotland, features modern furnishings such as marble staircases and glass showcases.
End is part of a strategy by Shaftesbury to position Soho as a go-to destination for emerging brands. The company has been offering reasonable rents in the neighborhood, which is a few minutes’ walk from Oxford and Regent Streets. Shaftesbury has also helped to install Supreme, Palace, Carhartt and Dukes Cupboard, a multibrand retailer, in the neighborhood. Samantha Bain-Mollison, head of retail at Shaftesbury, has been driving the strategy. She describes End as “influential, with a renowned selection of directional and globally sourced men’s wear.” — Hannah Connolly
End
59

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Ji Oh RTW Fall 2019

Gender ambiguity in fashion has been a hot button issue this year, with many retailers and brands embracing a fluid approach to dress. Designer Ji Oh knows it, and has a design ethos rooted in subverting classic men’s wear for women that boasts broad appeal.
The big news from her fall range was a distinct focus on recontextualizing classics to draw in more male consumers. It’s a wonder why she hasn’t introduced the idea of “unisex” clothing into her collections before. She used the term loosely as trousers, like a quirky pair of “blazer pants” or another with pleating on just one side, are fit differently for guys and gals.
She shot her look book on both male and female models — twice in the same outfits — to show an inherent neutrality. Off-beat shirting looked just as cool on him as on her, as did striped trousers; the pleated skorts cut one leg higher than the other, though sharp and clean, were definitely geared for more eccentric fashion enthusiasts.
There were a lot of pieces here that demonstrated experimental restraint. The aforementioned shirting, for instance, were easy to wear even with asymmetric construction or manipulated fabric gatherings along the chest. Speaking of,

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‘Don’t fall in love on Facebook’ warns jailed Indian man

An Indian man released after six years in prison in Pakistan has warned others against repeating his mistake – falling in love on Facebook.
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Bitcoin hit its highest valuation a year ago, reaching above £15,000 on some exchanges.
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‘It’s Been a Rout’: Apple’s iPhones Fall Flat in World’s Largest Untapped Market

Global smartphone sales are flattening, which is why Apple and others are looking to India and its millions of newly minted consumers for growth. Yet the tech giant’s market share is falling, revenue is coming in well below expectations and its top leadership ranks are in turmoil.
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The Fall of the House of Ghosn

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How the William Nylander dominoes fall

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Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-12-03 00:00:00
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Discount School Supply – FALL & HOLIDAY CRAFTING & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: GET100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

FALL & HOLIDAY CRAFTING & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: GET100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: GET100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-12-03 00:00:00
Coupon Feed

Discount School Supply – FALL & HOLIDAY CRAFTING & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: GET100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

FALL & HOLIDAY CRAFTING & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: GET100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: GET100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-12-03 00:00:00
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IVF fertility treatment success ’causes fall in adoptions’

The adoption process is also “far too slow”, the boss of the service representing children in care says.
BBC News – Health
HEALTH & WELLNESS UPDATE:

Wal-Mart.com USA, LLC

15 Ways to Work Plaid Into Your Fall Wardrobe

Shopping: PlaidIt’s no secret that this time of year is all about being extra.
Something about the approaching holiday season just makes you want to do more. Decorate your house, sing songs, dress…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

15 Ways to Work Plaid Into Your Fall Wardrobe

Shopping: PlaidIt’s no secret that this time of year is all about being extra.
Something about the approaching holiday season just makes you want to do more. Decorate your house, sing songs, dress…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

Special Tip Update!

Discount School Supply – Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: FALL100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-11-05 00:00:00
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14 Splurge-Worthy Knee-High Boots to Snag for Fall

Shopping: Splurgeworthy Knee High Boots Fall footwear practically requires its own closet but that doesn’t make us love it any less.
We don’t have to tell you that this time of year your shoes tend to be bulkier, bigger…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

Discount School Supply – Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: FALL100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-11-05 00:00:00
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Books of The Times: In New Volume of Sylvia Plath’s Letters, a Marriage Falters and Masks Fall Away

In this correspondence, written between 1956 and 1963, ending a week before Plath’s death, at 30, we see goals triumphantly and tragically fulfilled.
NYT > Books

BOOK SALE UPDATE!

17 Teddy Jackets to Snuggle Up In for Fall

Shopping: Teddy Jackets Fall jacket shopping season is upon us and while we fully advocate having multiple style options at our disposal, we also play favorites.
One: It has to do the job and keep us warm. Two:…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

Shay Mitchell Shares 9 Fall Pieces That Will Make You Look Insta-Fly

ESC: Shay MitchellShay Mitchell’s new lifestyle brand is for the go-getter in your life.
When it comes to creating a life full of adventure and epic style, the former Pretty Little Liars actress is a…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

Special Tip Update!

Shay Mitchell Shares 9 Fall Pieces That Will Make You Look Insta-Fly

ESC: Shay MitchellShay Mitchell’s new lifestyle brand is for the go-getter in your life.
When it comes to creating a life full of adventure and epic style, the former Pretty Little Liars actress is a…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

LeBron, Lakers fly high during comeback, fall apart in final minute

The Spurs and Lakers entertained for 53 minutes, but it was Patty Mills – not LeBron James – who played the role of hero in the final seconds.
www.espn.com – NBA

Modell’s Sporting Goods – 25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES

25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES
Code: FALLSHOES
Begin: 2018-10-20 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-26 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – 25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES

25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES
Code: FALLSHOES
Begin: 2018-10-20 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-26 00:00:00
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Discount School Supply – Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: FALL100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-11-05 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – 25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES

25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES
Code: FALLSHOES
Begin: 2018-10-20 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-26 00:00:00
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Yes Style – Fall Savings! Save Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

Fall Savings! Apply 2018FALL upon checkout to save Extra 10% OFF on orders over US$ 49! Terms and Conditions apply: https://bit.ly/2QGP7SG
Code: 2018FALL
Begin: 2018-10-15 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-22 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – 25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES

25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES
Code: FALLSHOES
Begin: 2018-10-20 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-26 00:00:00
Coupon Feed

Discount School Supply – Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: FALL100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-11-05 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – 25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES

25% Off Select Fall Footwear at Modells.com. Use Code FALLSHOES
Code: FALLSHOES
Begin: 2018-10-20 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-26 00:00:00
Coupon Feed

How to Make Any Front Door Warm and Welcoming for Fall

Shopping: Fall Porch DecorSo you have a big beautiful front porch and nothing to put on it.
Or maybe what you have is more akin to a stoop or a balcony–semantics, really. Usually a bare entryway is totally…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

Yes Style – Fall Savings! Save Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

Fall Savings! Apply 2018FALL upon checkout to save Extra 10% OFF on orders over US$ 49! Terms and Conditions apply: https://bit.ly/2QGP7SG
Code: 2018FALL
Begin: 2018-10-15 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-22 00:00:00
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Discount School Supply – Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: FALL100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-11-05 00:00:00
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Yes Style – Fall Savings! Save Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

Fall Savings! Apply 2018FALL upon checkout to save Extra 10% OFF on orders over US$ 49! Terms and Conditions apply: https://bit.ly/2QGP7SG
Code: 2018FALL
Begin: 2018-10-15 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-22 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.

Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.
Code: GETCOZY
Begin: 2018-10-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-19 00:00:00
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Yes Style – Fall Savings! Save Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

Fall Savings! Apply 2018FALL upon checkout to save Extra 10% OFF on orders over US$ 49! Terms and Conditions apply: https://bit.ly/2QGP7SG
Code: 2018FALL
Begin: 2018-10-15 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-22 00:00:00
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Yes Style – Fall Savings! Save Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

Fall Savings! Apply 2018FALL upon checkout to save Extra 10% OFF on orders over US$ 49! Terms and Conditions apply: https://bit.ly/2QGP7SG
Code: 2018FALL
Begin: 2018-10-15 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-22 00:00:00
Coupon Feed

Yes Style – Fall Savings! Save Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

Fall Savings! Apply 2018FALL upon checkout to save Extra 10% OFF on orders over US$ 49! Terms and Conditions apply: https://bit.ly/2QGP7SG
Code: 2018FALL
Begin: 2018-10-15 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-22 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.

Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.
Code: GETCOZY
Begin: 2018-10-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-19 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.

Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.
Code: GETCOZY
Begin: 2018-10-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-19 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.

Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.
Code: GETCOZY
Begin: 2018-10-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-19 00:00:00
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Jessie James Decker Reveals 5 Cute Mom-Approved Outfits You Need for Fall

ESC: Jessie James DeckerJessie James Decker just revealed everything she’s wearing this season.
In honor of her favorite season, Eric Decker’s better half has partnered with JustFab on a collaboration of…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

Jessie James Decker Reveals 5 Cute Mom-Approved Outfits You Need for Fall

ESC: Jessie James DeckerJessie James Decker just revealed everything she’s wearing this season.
In honor of her favorite season, Eric Decker’s better half has partnered with JustFab on a collaboration of…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

Special Tip Update!

Y/Project to Unveil Men’s Fall Collection at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Y/Project will show its men’s fall 2019 collection in Florence as guest brand of the next edition of international men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 8 to 11.
Y/Project’s collections are designed by Glenn Martens, who succeeded the brand’s founder Yohan Serfaty as creative director in 2013. Serfaty passed away that year.
Under the creative direction of Martens, the Paris-based label won the ANDAM Grand Prize award in 2017 and consolidated its presence in the most relevant department stores in the world, including Dover Street Market, Barneys, Selfridges, Lane Crawford and Jeffrey.
“Glenn Martens created for Y/Project a new aesthetic language, based on contradictions,” said Pitti Immagine communication and events director Lapo Cianchi. “Elegance is juxtaposed with eclectic and extravagant references, streetwear is enriched with historic details and exaggerated couture touches. The brand offers a highly conceptual design in line with the most advances projects in the market and Martens express a witty sense of humor and has a very personal fashion vision, based on freedom, experimentation and fun, without boundaries.”
Last June, Martens unveiled in Milan his capsule collection for the Diesel Red Tag label. Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli were the latest guests designer at Pitti Uomo last June.

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.

Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.
Code: GETCOZY
Begin: 2018-10-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-19 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.

Take 20% Off Fall Favorites at Modells.com. Use Code GETCOZY.
Code: GETCOZY
Begin: 2018-10-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-19 00:00:00
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J.Crew’s Giant Fall Sale Is Still Going – Here’s Exactly What to Get Before It Ends

J. Crew is celebrating all things fall with an epic sale that you can’t miss! They’re offering 40 percent off four or more styles, 30 percent off three styles, or 20 percent off two styles online only through Oct 11. That’s a major markdown on a seriously stylish selection of dresses, shoes and jewelry that are perfect for sprucing up your fall wardrobe. All you have to do is enter code “SAVEMORE” at checkout. Scroll down to shop five of our favorite styles before they’re gone!

Ruffled Dress

Buy It! Drapey ruffle faux-wrap dress, $ 118.00 (orig. $ 198); jcrew.com

Wool Coat

Buy It! Daphne topcoat in Italian boiled wool, $ 136.80 (orig. $ 228); jcrew.com

Canvas Tote

Buy It! Signet tote bag, $ 80.39 (orig. $ 178); jcrew.com

Striped Sweater

Buy It! Tippi sweater in multistripe, $ 40.79 (orig. $ 89.50); jcrew.com

Skinny Jeans

Buy It! 9” High rise toothpick jeans, $ 76.80 (orig. $ 128); jcrew.com

Smoking Slippers

Buy It! Smoking slippers in snake, $ 100.80 (orig. $ 168); jcrew.com

What fabulous sale styles are you picking up for the season? Comment below and let us know!


PEOPLE.com

Fashion Deals Update:

Journelle Affiliate Program – Journelle’s First Ever Fall Friends & Family Sale: 25% OFF with code FALLFNF2018

Journelle’s First Ever Fall Friends & Family Sale: 25% OFF with code FALLFNF2018 In-Store + Online Exclusions Apply (Hanky Panky, Natori, Commando)
Code: FALLFNF2018
Begin: 2018-10-02 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-09 02:00:00
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Laura Harrier and Adwoa Aboah Dress Up Their Fall Boots and More Best Dressed Stars

ESC: Best Dressed, Laura HarrierHollywood’s stars are bringing their best fall style to the forefront.
Over the course of the week, premieres such as A Star Is Born and First Man brought the likes of Claire Foy and…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

Discount School Supply – Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

Fall STEM Sale! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: FALL100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-11-05 00:00:00
Coupon Feed

Journelle Affiliate Program – Journelle’s First Ever Fall Friends & Family Sale: 25% OFF with code FALLFNF2018

Journelle’s First Ever Fall Friends & Family Sale: 25% OFF with code FALLFNF2018 In-Store + Online Exclusions Apply (Hanky Panky, Natori, Commando)
Code: FALLFNF2018
Begin: 2018-10-02 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-09 02:00:00
Coupon Feed

Discount School Supply – Fall Arts & Crafts Sale! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

Fall Arts & Crafts Sale! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: FALL100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-11-05 00:00:00
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Discount School Supply – Fall Arts & Crafts Sale! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $250 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $20 Off!

Fall Arts & Crafts Sale! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: FALL100 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 250 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 20 Off!
Code: FALL100
Begin: 2018-10-01 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-11-05 00:00:00
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