Jil Sander Taps Wim and Donata Wenders for Fall 2018 Ads

FAMILY AFFAIR: Jil Sander strongly believes in power couples.
The brand, which is codesigned by Lucie and Luke Meier, has tapped Wim Wenders and his wife, photographer and artist Donata Wenders, to realize its fall 2018 advertising campaign.
In particular, Wim Wenders, in his second collaboration with the fashion label, filmed the three-minute “Time Passing” video infused with a surreal atmosphere, while Donata Wenders shot behind-the-scene images of the short movie’s making. These will be used by Jil Sander for the advertising campaign hitting the September issues of international publications.
“Jil Sander designed by Lucie and [her husband] Luke has a new, unique and modern mélange of classiness and avant-garde, easygoing and haute couture, subtle elegance and defined silhouettes in all their different elements of clothing. I especially like their choice of colors, cuts and fabrics,” said Donata Wenders. “Their garments help you to live in an elegant, imaginative, natural and still somehow strict lifestyle. I tried to reflect this kind of fusion in my photographs, accompanying the latest commercial by Wim.”

Asked about working with her husband on the project, she said, “I loved to witness Wim in his element. I think he enjoyed shooting the many little episodes and creating a new way of storytelling in these spots he made

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Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall 2018

Remember when you could smoke in restaurants, airplanes, cinemas — even while driving your kids to school? What was once considered a harmless pastime is fast going the way of the dodo, but Jean Paul Gaultier has never been one for political correctness.
His fall couture show was an ode to Le Smoking, the tuxedo suit for women created by Yves Saint Laurent that has become a mainstay of Gaultier’s repertoire. In one of those semantic leaps he is fond of, it also doubled as a celebration of La Cigarette.
Dark silhouettes shrouded in curls of smoke lined the walls of the designer’s headquarters, while long plumes of smoke were projected onto the runway curtains. To cap off the cabaret ambience, Gaultier pumped actual smoke into the room, though it could have been steam rising from the audience in the saunalike venue.
The show was a coed affair, kicking off with a series of men’s looks worn by models, including five dancers from Gaultier’s upcoming “Fashion Freak Show” musical revue, and maybe a couple of the bouncers, too, judging from their tanklike builds.
A black tuxedo jacket came with nifty pockets for storing cigarettes, a lighter and even an umbrella that slid into a

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Fendi Couture Fall 2018

Add another distinction to Karl Lagerfeld’s superhuman résumé: fashion’s only two-timing couturier. With the Fendi collection he and Silvia Venturini Fendi showed on Wednesday, the house has officially shifted from haute fourrure to haute couture — and it’s more than a name change.
“This tradition of fur allows us to do couture: clothes made with fur, but also with other materials,” said the brand’s chief executive officer Serge Brunschwig, before the show. “We thought it was more coherent to call it couture, because that is the service we are going to offer. A lot of our clients are attending the show and a dinner afterward. Then we will be holding appointments for three days at the Hôtel de La Salle.”
Speaking of those clients, 180 or so in attendance, would a little thing like a heat wave keep some from breaking out their latest fur purchase? What do you think? Next season, they won’t have to think twice — literally. Because while Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi worked a pair of interesting if not atypical creative themes — paintings and a plate (the work of Czech painter František Kupka, on exhibit at the Grand Palais, and a plate featuring a lattice and

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Alexandre Vauthier Couture Fall 2018

Alexandre Vauthier’s mission has always been hooked on a less sacred, more approachable take on couture. But he’s never let go of his passion for the genre’s Eighties heyday, and the codes of the couturier greats.
Here his homage took on a Rue Cambon flavor, with looks pairing black boater hats, tailored jackets, white shirts and black satin bows conjuring a young Inès de La Fressange.
Vauthier backstage described it as a celebration of the savoir-faire of France’s métiers d’art.
“When it’s pleated, it’s Lognon; when there are feathers, it’s Lemarié; when it’s embroidered, it’s Lesage; all the hats are Maison Michel, the jewelry is Goossens,” he said.
Among the most labor-intensive pieces, 1,850 hours of handiwork had gone into the vivid disco gowns embroidered with tiny crystals. They caught the light. But more exquisite were the gleaming, jet-embroidered bustier minidress and a tiered black gown interspersing ruffled lace and sheer panels, a satin ribbon streaming down the front.
Breaking the old-glamour vibe — a little too abruptly — were the baggy fabric boots that resembled cut-off pants, and the tulle-edged PVC minis and skirts.
The craftsmanship — from the dramatic sprays of cock feathers used as shoulder accents or covering a dress, to the gowns

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Armani Privé Couture Fall 2018

It was 30 minutes (and 96 looks) in a 12-minute world, and worth every second of viewing.
On Tuesday evening in the gilded salons of the Italian Embassy, splendid in their intimacy, Giorgio Armani awed with his Armani Privé collection. It may have been his best ever. In his program notes, Armani said that he sought to capture “couture…as it once was: the authentic essence of luxury and perfection, the notion intended as instructional for ‘the young generation’ and the style of presentation, ‘almost regal.’”
If that sounds pedantic, it wasn’t at all. Rather, Armani presented an array of alluring, exquisitely crafted clothes that were elevated as befits the haute genre and diverse enough to satiate the desires of a range of couture clients.
Of course, Armani focused on high evening. He pioneered the red-carpet phenomenon as it exists today, and time and again he uses his Privé runway to remind that he’s not seceding a smidgen of his hard-earned turf to anyone. But first the daywear — lovely! And utterly controlled: sensible shoulder options on smart, shapely jackets; pants sans tricks (and mostly pants for day); the occasional well-placed flourish in a contrasting collar or graphic piping on a sleeve.
That all-neutral opening,

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Giambattista Valli Couture Fall 2018

Giambattista Valli is a man who knows a thing or two about excess — after all, some of his gowns require 400 yards of fabric — so it came as a surprise that the opening look of his fall couture collection consisted of nothing more than a black bow-tie bandeau top and high-waisted pants.
A closer look revealed that this may be his most extravagant look yet: the model’s fingers dripped with hundreds of thousands of dollars’ worth of Chopard rings set with diamonds, including a gobstopper of a 38-carat rock. Wrapped around her sandals were two thick glittering chains. Welcome to the fly girl, Valli style.
“There is a very strong sense of youth in this haute couture. Why? Because we have a lot of new generations of young girls coming and buying haute couture from all over the world, so that’s very nice and it’s very inspiring, and they have a different attitude to wearing it,” the designer explained backstage.
“They have that kind of sense to wear haute couture like they are wearing jeans and a T-shirt. They don’t have any complex. There is a little bit of ghetto girls — luxury ghetto girls, whatever you want to call it

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Ralph & Russo Couture Fall 2018

Ralph & Russo may not have made the dress for Meghan Markle’s royal wedding but that certainly didn’t take any wind out of their sails. The new Duchess of Sussex remains a muse — Michael Russo demurred on whether she was still a client — and business is still booming. Having just opened in the Dubai Mall, several other openings are slated for the coming months.
The couple named Jacqueline de Ribes as inspiration for a fall collection of 47 looks. Like the French fashion icon, the brand knows how to make an entrance, opening with an asymmetric off-white tailored dress with a daring slit that revealed a black garter around a toned thigh. “We wanted to set the tone for the early Eighties era of bold, sexy femininity,” said Tamara Ralph after the show.
Crystallizing the mood of the season were a multicolored chiffon kaftan in tones of fluorescent pink, yellow and aqua; a black off-the-shoulder sheath in black tulle that left the corsage, bustle and garter visible, and structured silhouettes with marked shoulders and waists.
Ralph was at her most focused when cutting closer to the body in silhouettes that exuded sensuality, rife with well-placed flashes of skin and lashings of

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Givenchy Couture Fall 2018

Clare Waight Keller’s couture collection for Givenchy fascinated on multiple levels. For one, she addressed the question of house legacy. What is legacy? Do house codes matter? Should they matter?
After the death of Hubert de Givenchy in March at the age of 91, Waight Keller thought it appropriate to make her fall 2108 collection an homage to the founder. It wasn’t her first such statement. In what may be the most famous dress she will ever design, Meghan Markle’s wedding dress, the designer drew inspiration from a 1964 dress photographed in Vogue on Givenchy’s lifelong muse, Audrey Hepburn.
Today, it’s Hepburn most people think of when they think of Givenchy. Otherwise, despite a rich, inventive career, Givenchy himself outlasted broad-stroke knowledge of his professional signatures, and Waight Keller’s predecessor Riccardo Tisci so shaped the house in his own likeness that she now needn’t take on the burden of the archives.
Instead, Waight Keller chooses to. Her program notes quoted Roger Caillois, from “The Writing of Stones”: “A multitude of new inscriptions is added to the writing in the stones,“ and offered that for fall, she “glimpses beyond the tangible toward a profound and sparking fantasia.” And so she did, the profundity delivered

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RVDK Ronald van der Kemp Couture Fall 2018

You don’t need to know about Ronald van der Kemp’s stance on sustainability to enjoy his work, but it certainly gives it added relevance at a time where H&M sits on 4.3 billion dollars’ worth of unsold inventory.
The Dutch designer’s message remains the same: the only sustainable way forward is by making the most of what’s in front of you. Through this iteration of his upcycled collage of vintage fabric finds and unusual materials, Van der Kemp zeroed in on the idea of disposable clothes, opposing the paper dresses of the Sixties to the “disposable clothes on the high street”. “You can make something from leftovers, and you don’t have to know they’re leftovers,” he said, pointing out how he’d machine-washed cardboard until it became pliant enough to be cut to make a pair of achingly cool metallicized trousers.
Looking for a particular theme is moot here, as he draws together his re-purposed material in a joyous clash that imparts a perpetual of-the-moment feel. As ever, he remains undaunted at the idea of offering outré pairings, or of being handed materials other may consider sub par.
An unmistakable Eighties flair crossed with a certain Space Age modernism makes these latest designs smoulder. Van

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The 14 best new features coming to the macOS Mojave this fall

The 14 best new features coming to the macOS Mojave this fallAt Apple’s developers conference on Monday, CEO Tim Cook announced a new version of the Mac’s system software, just as he does every year.



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Gucci Taps Harry Styles for its Fall Men’s Tailoring Ad Campaign

SIGN OF THE TIMES: Harry Styles is the latest addition to the Gucci gang.
The British singer and actor was tapped by the fashion house to front the advertising campaign of its fall 2018 tailoring collection.
Lensed by Glen Luchford with art direction by Christopher Simmonds, the images portray Styles in a fish-and-chip shop in northern London posing with animals including chickens and dogs.
The musician is pictured in a variety of Gucci tailored outfits, combining formal shirt and ties with buttoned-up casual shirts and accessories such as rings, necklaces and brooches.

Harry Styles in Gucci’s men’s tailoring ad campaign. 
Glen Luchford

Looks include a teal checked three-piece suit with bees as decorative motifs; a blue-and-beige macro gingham dressing gown worn as a coat over a pinstripe double-breasted suit, and a grey wool option embellished with patches featuring the insignia of the NY Yankees baseball team. Moccassins, sandals and sneakers complete the outfits.

Harry Styles in Gucci’s men’s tailoring ad campaign. 
Glen Luchford

Flanking the images, a short clip also directed by Luchford shows the musician heading to the local chippy with his pet chicken and queuing to order some food.
Previewed on Gucci’s Instagram account, the campaign breaks this month across all media.
The musician’s predecessors in the role included

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Exclusive: Gucci to Join Paris Fashion Week This Fall

MILAN — Continuing to speak with a French accent this year, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele is joining Paris Fashion Week this fall, WWD has learned.
Decamping from Milan for one season, the Italian luxury brand is to parade its spring-summer 2019 collection in the French capital on Sept. 24. The show marks the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by Michele, creative director.
“Gucci is a global brand with deep and vibrant Italian roots and a visionary French shareholder, Kering,” said Marco Bizzarri, president and chief executive officer of Gucci. “When Alessandro told me of his desire to present the new collection in Paris — continuing the French-inspired narrative — I thought it was a perfect way to continue the creative homage to France.”
Bizzarri underscored that the show date marks the “transition day between Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks to avoid impacting schedules. We will then look forward to returning to Milan in February 2019.”
While foregoing a show in Milan for the season, the company is planning a special event to be held at the Gucci Hub on Wednesday, Sept. 19, the second day of Milan Women’s Fashion Week, scheduled to run Sept. 18-24. Details about the event are being kept under wraps.
Gucci began

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CBS Bosses on The Big Bang Theory’s Future, Plus Huge Monday Shakeup in New 2018 Fall TV Schedule

Big Bang Theory CastDon’t bet on CBS saying goodbye to Sheldon Cooper just yet. During a press call to announce the network’s new 2018-2019 TV schedule, CBS’s Kelly Kahl addressed the future of the…

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Mugler by Casey Cadwallader RTW Fall 2018

“For me, it really is a project about starting a new culture around the brand; even the photographs are more about the women than they are the clothes,” Casey Cadwallader mused about his debut fall presentation for Mugler. His approach was focused and smart: to start by designing signatures and pieces that are meant to last and mix in a few shocking pieces. For instance, Cadwallader said he would like to re-create the collection’s cropped, black leather jacket season after season, mentioning, “I think sometimes fashion moves faster than the clients and I’d rather make it so if you see something in a magazine in six months, you might still be able to buy it.”
The same idea of signatures went for great spiral cut jeans, offered in a frayed light wash with matching jacket, clean dark and white washes as well as in green velvet, all of which were high-waisted and shaped to the hip in a very Mugler way. Tailoring also made for an important aspect of the collection, through sharp, rounded wool suiting, styled with sleek, color-blocked cycling leggings and shorts, and was nicely offset by more feminine pieces, like a fluid pink superfine jersey dress.
As for

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Liroto RTW Fall 2018

Name: Liroto
Main message: For his newly launched brand’s first collection, Naoki Tomizuka made heavy use of ruffles, gathering, and voluminous shapes. The nearly all-black collection — with a few cream-colored and floral pieces thrown in — consisted of puff-sleeve jackets, asymmetric tops and frilly blouses paired with wide-leg trousers and long skirts. A pair of laced-trimmed, full-skirted dresses and elaborate hats had a very nursery-rhyme-like feel to them. Although theatrical in nature, the clothes had a certain realness that is often lacking in collections by similar brands.
The result: While definitely not for the mainstream, Tomizuka will likely find a following among Tokyo’s very niche fashion tribes.

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Enhance RTW Fall 2018

Name: Enhance
Main message: Masakazu Takeguchi doesn’t take many risks with his collections, but what he does, he does well. His rock-inspired suits, dresses and slim jeans have definite commercial value, even if many of them feel too simple for the runway. To add his own touch to basics, he decorated black suits with tonal embroidery, left raw hems on jackets, placed long zippers up the front of trousers, and cut dramatic slanted hems into skirts. Many looks were accessorized with scarves made of rosettes, which were also used to fashion a long denim skirt, a standout piece.
The result: A veteran of the Japanese fashion business who has worked on several brands, Takeguchi has proven he can make clothes. Now it would be nice to see him experiment a bit more.

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Yohei Ohno RTW Fall 2018

“Shows are fun to watch, but they really have nothing to do with us. This time I wanted to do something that would put [the audience] into the daily lives of other people,” designer Yohei Ohno said after his fall presentation.
Held in an underground space in Tokyo’s Omotesando district, the installation had models posing in natural positions among retro furniture and a mirrored background. While the clothes had Ohno’s typically sculptural shapes, they were also more wearable than his previous offerings, even though he said that wasn’t his intention.
“Until now I’ve used weird materials such as metallics as my signature, but I decided to stop doing that for now and instead use fabrics that are more intimate for people, such as corduroy and tweed,” he said. “I started with these kinds of fabrics that give people an intimate feeling and then expanded them using my own mental image.”
Ohno showed tweed suits with exaggerated puff shoulders, raw denim jackets and high-waisted jeans, shirts with tulle overlays on the sleeves, and tank tops with long, pleated panels hanging off the front and gathered together like curtains. Bodysuits made many appearances in a variety of fabrics, and were worn either layered over the

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Heaven Tanudiredja RTW Fall 2018

Name: Heaven Tanudiredja
Main message: Indonesian designer Heaven Tanudiredja is known for his sculptural accessories, which have appeared on the runways of Christian Dior, Dries Van Noten, Iris van Herpen and Juun. J. In his first runway show in Tokyo he presented a series of lavishly embellished coats, dresses and sheer blouses in a variety of contrasting textures. He used a plastic-like material with all-over circular cut-outs to create long skirts and trapeze dresses, sent out sequined fishnet capes, and topped his delicate chiffon dresses with stiff cotton boleros.
The result: While the detailing, which included embroidery, rhinestones, feathers and sequins, was beautifully done, many of the more elaborate pieces went a bit too far, making them unrealistic for most consumers.

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J Brand RTW Fall 2018

J Brand’s fall lineup was divided into three categories: Super Evening, Super Fashion and Super Color. All of it was super Nineties, putting it super on trend. There were sheer organza “jean” jacket tops and blazers and organza details on jeans, an oversize crushed velvet jacket and pants, and a minimalist ribbed cashmere slipdress. As for the actual jeans, they came high-waisted and skinny with button flies and pockets, in holographic silver and a style that zipped up the front of the leg from ankle to waist. To play up the brand’s Los Angeles roots, the look book was shot at Chateau Marmont on Jacquelyn Jablonski, styled with combat boots to emphasize the Nineties-ness of it all.

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TTT_MSW RTW Fall 2018

Name: TTT_MSW
Main message: With his brand’s first runway show, 24-year-old designer Shota Tamada brought something that is often lacking from Tokyo fashion week: a youthful energy. Supported by Amazon Fashion’s At Tokyo program, the show re-created a car crash scene, complete with dead grass and leaves, a broken-down car and an artificial rainstorm in the center of the circular runway. Tamada said his theme for the season was “mafia,” and his motley crew of gang members emerged from the backseat of the car before walking the runway in a mix of cargo pants, faux fur coats, velour track jackets, suits, satin shirts and leather-like bomber jackets.
The result: Tamada’s collection lacked originality in terms of design and silhouettes, but employed an interesting use of color and, at times, texture.

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Paradox Tokyo RTW Fall 2018

Name: Paradox Tokyo
Main message: Rie Tobita followed the trend of creating hard-edged streetwear with sporty influences, turning out voluminous puffer jackets closed with plastic buckles, graphic T-shirts, hooded sweatshirts, nylon windbreakers and fleece sweatpants. While much of the collection was done in black, the darkness was punctuated by pops of bright orange, deep purple, royal blue, baby pink and a black-and-white graffiti print.
The result: While it may have reflected actual trends in street fashion, the collection had little originality and gave customers no real reason to buy the pieces from Paradox rather than one of the many other brands producing similar styles.

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Chinese say space lab fall ‘nothing to worry about’

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Muze RTW Fall 2018

Name: Muze
Main message: Following in the footsteps of designers such as Jeremy Scott and Vetements, Masatoshi Ishida and Hiroshi Shibahara made an attempt to mix the commercial with the creative by splashing the logo of a non-fashion company across their clothes. They chose Calorie Mate, a brand of energy bars and gel drinks that is a mainstay in nearly every Japanese convenience store. The logo appeared on the sleeves of a moto jacket, across the bottom of a shirt, and on hoodies, jackets, asymmetric hemmed skirts and dresses. They also showed more simple, outdoorsy pieces in solid colors, such as a turquoise blue windbreaker and black or cream jackets in a combination of nylon and plush fabrics.
The result: The Calorie Mate pieces didn’t always hit the right tone of irony and many looked like simple advertisements, but they at least were more interesting than the rest of the collection.

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Heartbeat actor Bill Maynard dies after fall

Heartbeat actor Bill Maynard has died in hospital at the age of 89, after breaking his hip in a fall from his mobility scooter.
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Sandro RTW Fall 2018

What do you get when you try to combine Parisian cool-girl attitude with British nonchalance and Americana-loving irony in the hands of a trend-synthesizing contemporary player like Sandro? A fall collection rife with mismatched jolie laide layers that hit the bull’s-eye of fashion’s current obsession with streetwear gritty/glam. It was a mishmash of statement outerwear — faux furs, tailored plaids, workwear denim and short puffers — layered over sweatshirts, trackpants, long skirts, cropped and distressed denim and dorky socks and trainers. Topping things off were sweatshirts and giant scarves printed with broadly positive, feminist messaging (“Women;” “Love”).

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Hyke RTW Fall 2018

Many Tokyo brands have become known for their bright colors, extreme detailing and outlandish designs. Hyke isn’t one of them. Designed by the duo of Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara, it specializes in meticulously constructed basics with subtle modern twists, created from some of the best textiles available.
This season Ode and Yoshihara chose to reimagine classic military styles, with a particular focus on outerwear. They updated bomber jackets in oversized shapes, with fur trim or in shearling turned inside out to show the fluffy ivory fleece. But the real stars of the collection were the gorgeous coats. From the most luxurious-looking melton wool were crafted peacoats, toggle coats, double-breasted coats and belted coats. The silhouettes were oversized, with sleeves in particular often extralong and puffy.
Worn under the outerwear were slim leather pants bunched at the ankles, pleated skirts with overlays in suiting fabric, houndstooth suit jackets, thigh-high shearling leggings, rib knit tunics and simple sleeveless dresses slit up to the navel in front. Everything was done in shades of navy, gray, olive, khaki and ivory, save for two bright orange puffy jackets, which resembled flight jackets turned inside out.
Hyke also showed items from its second season collaborating with The North

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Digawel RTW Fall 2018

Name: Digawel
Main message: One of the winners of the 2018 Tokyo Fashion Award, Kohei Nishimura has been quietly building a fan base for his designs for over a decade, and participated in Tokyo Fashion Week for the first time this season. While he designs for both men and women, his pieces have a unisex quality. He used suiting fabrics for relaxed and casual trousers, pullovers and anoraks, while turning out easy suits from softer fabrics such as velour. Cozy, long sweaters and long scarves rounded out the offering.
The result: Nishimura proved himself to be deserving of his award with a tight, collection of easy pieces that mix and match together across colors, textures and genders.

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Sise Men’s Fall 2018

Name: Sise
Main message: Seishin Matsui went for a mix of cool and preppy, with biker jackets and long coats sharing the runway with cuffed jeans and button-downs worn under sweatshirts. Athletic influences were plentiful, with slim track pants, relaxed joggers, Windbreakers and loose-fitting shorts — some with legs of uneven lengths — making multiple appearances. While the majority of the collection was turned out in black, white or deep shades of green and burgundy, a few looks in the middle had an almost summery feel in pastels or yellow and blue checks. 
The result: While the silhouettes consisted of classic shapes and Matsui didn’t do much to put his own spin on them, it was a solid showing from a brand that hasn’t staged a runway show in over four years.

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Soe RTW Fall 2018

Name: Soe
Main message: This brand’s collections always incorporate a certain preppy element, and the designers’ fall offering was no exception. Soichiro Ito and Yuki Takagi imagined a new, modern collegiate style that reinterpreted classic coats, checked scarves, pleated skirts and crested sweaters. Their silhouettes were oversize, with shirts untucked and sleeves cut extra long. A print of a crowd at a sporting event, combined with a partial McDonald’s logo, appeared on a skirt, a pullover and the bottom of a long coat, adding a touch of subtle whimsy.
The result: The designers showed their expertise at reinventing classic pieces for the current market, incorporating influences from the past while making the overall result feel very now.

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Wewill Men’s Fall 2018

Name: Wewill
Main message: A year after launching his brand, Hidetaka Fukuzono staged his first runway show in an underground nightclub, with the models walking through narrow corridors and square rooms. It was a collection heavy on outerwear, with a variety of coats in wool tweed, shearling, nylon, leather and more. Fukuzono employed unconventional layering, showing denim jackets under bombers or plush jackets, and pajamas under suit jackets or robe-like coats.
The result: While there wasn’t much originality in the shapes, Fukuzono added interest with his mix of rich, contrasting textures, resulting in slightly elevated basics that were casual and comfortable.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2018

After a two-year hiatus, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii returned to Tokyo’s fashion week with an effortlessly cool offering that mixed dandy with outdoorsy and streetwear with tailoring. A teal blue velour suit was worn with a funnel-neck shirt and sneakers, while a plush fleece pullover topped slick patent pants in pale pink.
In what was perhaps an acknowledgement of the fact that they already have some female customers, the designers also played with traditional gender norms, sending one woman down the runway and incorporating details normally only seen in women’s collections. Shirts and a trenchcoat that seemed relatively pedestrian from the front — aside from the fact that they had no openings — were shown to be completely backless. And card holder-sized patent leather pouches were worn as tiny, colorful cross-body bags.
Osumi and Yoshii, who style their collections themselves, are known for their clever layering, but this time they often did it in a single piece. Puffer jackets had a second, cropped layer on top, while cargo pocket arm bands and half vests were attached to sweatshirts and coats. Some suit jackets and down coats had exaggerated kangaroo pockets at the front.
In a season that has been lacking in strong men’s brands —

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Tuberculosis rates in England fall by third in six years

But England still has one of the highest rates of the disease in Western Europe.
BBC News – Health
HEALTH & WELLNESS UPDATE:

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Mint Designs RTW Fall 2018

Name: Mint Designs
Main message: Held in Tokyo’s Fred Perry store and serving a dual purpose as the launch of the two brands’ latest collaboration, this show had models descending dramatically down three flights of stairs while wearing patent leather boots with stilettos so high they could barely walk. Impractical footwear aside, Hokuto Katsui and Nao Yagi’s collection consisted of loose, comfortable dresses, skirts, pullovers and blouses in mixed prints and solid shades of pale aqua, red, green, yellow, purple, camel and gray. A coat that looked like it had been turned inside out, with its puffy, newspaper print lining on the outside was a standout piece.
The result: The designers are adept at mixing colors, prints and textures, and at making easy-fitting pieces look chic and stylish. While not as playful as some of their past collections, it was a solid, cohesive offering.

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G.V.G.V. RTW Fall 2018

Name: G.V.G.V.
Main message: The designer who goes by the name Mug showed a psychedelic offering of relaxed wide-leg pants, sweatshirts and track jackets together with more polished shifts and shirtdresses. All were turned out in a mix of groovy prints including checkerboards, wavy stripes, zigzags, Seventies florals and polka dots, punctuated with solid shades of burnt orange, wine red, olive, khaki and purple. Accessories included thigh-high boots, fanny packs and drawstring handbags. Despite the energy of the show, it was a disappointing use of the roller rink venue, with not a single pair of skates in sight.
The result: The collection was fun and cohesive, if not particularly risky, and despite the retro theme, casual styling brought it firmly into the present.

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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Fall 2018 — A Look Back

It seems forever ago, but it wasn’t. As it was happening and now, with hindsight of less than three weeks, fall 2018 resonates as a transitional season — a bellwether of changes essential to what has become an oversaturated and too-often underwhelming show circuit. Then again, one could say that about the past few years of runway seasons, and yet the changes don’t happen, and the shows go one. Happily, every season has its high points and its oddities.
Your Head in Your Hands — We’ve all heard the expression, but whoever expected to see it for real? Gucci’s show-opener, model Unia Pakhomova carrying her own head (for accuracy’s sake, it was a fake), proved the defining visual of the fall 2018 season. Presented within a brightly lit, antiseptic operating room installation, the show was compelling, confounding, weird and wonderful. In a post-show press conference, Alessandro Michele talked about being “post-human” and your own Dr. Frankenstein and parenting dragons — all whimsically heady stuff. Yet the best thing about what Michele is doing right now is that the clothes stand up to the shtick. To walk into a Gucci store is to come upon a retail derivation completely faithful to the promise of the

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Tory Sport Fall 2018

Tory Burch focused much of her fall Tory Sport collection on the off-duty moments of life, whether going to and from the gym or the field, to travel to the weekend. “We spent so much time thinking about the seamlessness of someone’s life,” Burch said during a preview. “How do we design things that aren’t so obviously sport but are superfunctional and have the properties an athlete needs, but is also how I’m dressing and others are dressing on the weekend.” That meant a big focus on outerwear with down puffers and parkas in oversize and small and proportions. Some of the coats had positive messaging — “Get to the gym” — sewn into the linings. Running gear came in graphic multicolored checks. Tracksuits were elevated enough to wear to the office and comfortable enough for a warm-up. There were chunky hand-knit ski sweaters, seamless sports bras and leggings, Coolmax cashmere sweatpants and a wrap skirt to make one’s ath-leisurewear a little less dressed-down. There’s a new performance sock sneaker, and Burch continues to up the ante on her golf and tennis gear, infusing the fabrics with sun protection. As of the fall deliveries, Tory Sport will be sold directly

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Akiko Aoki RTW Fall 2018

In the four short years since launching, Akiko Aoki has quickly become one of the most talked-about brands on the Tokyo Fashion Week calendar. So when she chose to stage her fall show in a tiny underground space, the city’s top editors clamored for one of the few seats. The setup seemed a bit strange at first, with the audience seated on one side of the room facing a wall of mirrors, in front of which were five sets of white pipes, a shoehorn at the base of each, and in the middle, a single pair of oxfords.
But the props hinted at what was to come, as did the two men dressed in black suits and white gloves who wheeled out racks of clothing, which they transferred to the pipes. Aoki blurred the lines between the runway and backstage by having her models change into the different looks right in front of the audience. It was an unusual choice that worked well for the collection, emphasizing the versatility of the men’s wear-inspired shirts and dresses.
The models came out first in shirts or shirtdresses, which were then tucked into pants or layered under a jacket with long, asymmetric panels. Suiting and

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Books of The Times: A New Biography Traces Tiger Woods’s Mythical Rise and Fall

Like a pair of supersleuths, Jeff Benedict and Armen Keteyian reconstruct the golfer’s life and offer new angles on old stories.
NYT > Books

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AG RTW Fall 2018

Building off the ideology of being more than a denim brand, AG has recently honed in on the expansion of wardrobe staples with reinterpreted classics. Across men’s and women’s, there was a clear workwear and utilitarian bent – a shirtdress with drawstring waist, a mechanic suit with feminine pleating, or a new “Ridge” jean for men based on traditional carpenter pants fully equipped with hammer loop and multiple pockets. The range was youthful and fun and played to the idea of cross-gender styling, where roomy turtlenecks and shirting with either oversized pockets or slightly asymmetric construction could easily be shared between men or women. Even the new “Kieran” style for women, with volume around the hip, tapered construction and slight crop, seemed appropriate for anyone. There were a few pieces strictly for each, though, as in a streamlined jumpsuit for her with wrap-front pleats at the leg that could work equally well with heels at the office or sneakers on the weekend.

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Beautiful People RTW Fall 2018

For the first Paris runway show of his 10-year-old Beautiful People brand, designer Hidenori Kumakiri drew on his experience in pattern-making to consider the encounter of a masculine wardrobe with the female body.
To achieve this, the Japanese designer took a cue from the tactics used to adjust garments on the go, and made them permanent by employing them as morphing methods for his shapes.
Case in point: a duffel coat with a voluminous hood looked slim-line, and its back revealed how panels had been pulled back and sewn instead of being left to be overlapped; a jacket was likewise nipped in at the waist as if it had been pulled in, but fell impeccably in the back; a trench coat wrapped diagonally around the body, with all bulk removed, and a chimney-necked knit column dress managed the feat of being at once oversized and body-skimming.
Poorly executed, this could have looked forced. As it stands, it looked as effortless as it felt fresh.

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Anaïs Jourden RTW Fall 2018

For her runway debut, Anaïs Mak wanted to show how her good girl is grown up now, with what the show notes described as a “recontextualization of the ladies-who-lunch genre.” She played with the ultimate French bourgeois staple, tweed, roughing it up with fil coupé edges in metallic pastel tones or using it on outsized down coats. While fun, the designs were overtly referential and lacking in the originality that gave Mak’s previous collections their cool-girl edge.
The Anaïs Jourden woman had a penchant for transparency, worked in tulle adorned with tinsellike tufts and metallic grid patterns on Mak’s signature ruched dresses, or as pointillist lace cycling shorts that did little to flatter the form.
Among the stronger looks, an allover tassel fabric had more of an impact on a black satin background, for example, as a one-shouldered cocktail dress with a contrasting burgundy lace under layer. Coming of age is tough, and everyone has a right to an awkward teenage moment.

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Chanel RTW Fall 2018

“Darling, it’s a fitting.” So said Karl Lagerfeld in response to Amanda Harlech’s unsolicited opinion that a particular look worked better without sunglasses. Ultimately, Lagerfeld agreed, and au revoir, eyewear.
A preview chez Chanel is like no other experience. Lagerfeld conducts fittings in his studio on Rue Cambon, where he sits at his desk cluttered with books, jewelry trays, perhaps an iPad or two, a glass of water in Lalique stemware. All of his team involved in producing the show bustle about, variously escorting models from the dressing room; suggesting sunglasses; adjusting hair and makeup; presenting a range of colorful leather glove choices; retrieving handbags from a vast grouping on the floor. Lagerfeld receives you in the midst of it all. What he doesn’t do is disrupt the process for the visit. Rather, he welcomes guests into it, fashion’s most accomplished multitasker alternating focus from model to staffers to interloping journalists. Hence, his quip to Harlech, followed by a reference to his most recent take-your-breath-away set: ”It’s a forest. You will see.”
With the Chanel supermarket, art gallery and casino in the rearview mirror, recently Lagerfeld has been getting in touch with his inner Thoreau and embracing the natural world. He’s gone under

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Paul & Joe RTW Fall 2018

Long before vintage became the preferred source for inspiration, Sophie Mechaly was already showing her magpie eye with a mixed wardrobe appealing to a louche Lolita with a long and lean silhouette.
Standouts included the black-and-white coat that opened the show, a pink-gold shearling jacket, a long blazer peppered with crystals along the shoulders — Mechaly wore a version of this to the previous night’s dinner at the Elysée presidential palace — and a shirt styled with a scarf tucked into the neck and paired with sleek white trousers.
Where the flirty mood felt most awkward was in the cartoon characters strewn across some outfits that jarred against the sultry looks, like say, a floor-length see-through dress that left nothing to the imagination. To be fair, there was plenty to look at here, and retail-wise, the recipe should continue to prove successful.

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Enfants Riches Déprimés RTW Fall 2018

Henri Alexandre focused on the details for his fall collection, which adhered to the label’s aesthetic: a bit punk, quite “rich depressed kid” — in keeping with the label’s name — and rather wearable.
“If it doesn’t look good on, it’s wrong, it’s a failure,” said Alexandre, lifting a piece he made to satisfy a personal longing —  a red suit jacket. A pair of trousers were tailored just so, narrower at the bottom to make a pair of pointy-toed shoes look good.
There weren’t any jeans this season “because I’m over jeans,” he explained. The designer instead  focused on his current favorite, cargo pants, which he made with a Japanese nylon material. He also added a suspender strap in black seatbelt material, which carried the logo, in a discreet black-on-black. Images included a drawing he made of a boy cutting off a girl’s ear, which was reproduced as embroidery.

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Cacharel RTW Fall 2018

Designers at Cacharel trotted out a breezy lineup of floral prints for fall, in all shapes and sizes, employing them in a mission to appeal to a younger crowd.
A sleek, leather coat with wide sleeves carried a butterfly wing on one side, while chunky knit sweaters had a bright pansy on a shoulder. Small pansies formed a pattern for a blouse, gloves and a jacket. The logo was another feature, appearing larger and thus a bit louder on a blue blouse, in white lettering.
Highlighting accessories, the brand also introduced a new felt cap, fashioned after a riding helmet. The season reflected the house’s efforts to reposition itself. Executives at the label declined to reveal the identity of the design team, but said the brand has been increasing the amount of business it generates outside France.

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Louis Vuitton RTW Fall 2018

Like many brands, Louis Vuitton has found itself embroiled in the #MeToo conversation in recent months.
Its latest brand ambassador, Emma Stone, is among the backers of the Time’s Up movement against sexual harassment, and drew attention at the Oscars as much for her pointed remarks onstage as for her bold choice of wearing a Vuitton trouser suit instead of the traditional red carpet gown.
Parallel to that, the brand has quietly distanced itself from two of its campaign photographers, Patrick Demarchelier and Bruce Weber, who are among several industry figures accused of sexual misconduct. Both have denied the allegations, and Vuitton has not commented on the issue.
What that has to do with the collection that Nicolas Ghesquière showed at the Louvre — with Stone among the front-row guests — is debatable, though the subject wove itself into a backstage conversation, with the designer saying that discussion about the rights of women is now part of the daily conversation at Vuitton’s design studio.
“It’s a dialogue we have all the time,” Ghesquière said after the show. “Everyone is concerned and wants to make it good.” Ghesquière felt it also transpired in the clothes. He has been thinking of women in general — not

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Wendy Jim RTW Fall 2018

Helga Ruthner and Hermann Fankhauser waited until guests were comfortably settled into their seats, wondering when the models would arrive. That’s when everyone was summoned into a back hallway to see the clothing. Models mingled, cordoned off from the crowd, while an authoritative voice commanded people to move along: “Please, move faster!” It was a play on the red carpet and those instants of fame that flare up suddenly, then disappear.
The collection had spunk, infused with neon work gear and reflective strips, paired with brown loafers dipped in bright yellow, or white. There was also a wild surfer-flower pattern — vintage Eighties, used to make a smock dress, with a prim white collar.
The pair was happy to be back in Paris, where the buyers convene and infrastructure is geared for the shows. The audience is receptive, too, they added.
They were thirsty for color this season, not just for personal reasons but also in reaction to the times. Fashion is a filter, noted Ruthner, recalling Helmut Lang’s insistence on this point.
Ponchos were prevalent, modern and technical, in dual color combinations like gray and green or printed with an Eiffel tower camouflaged with branches. A female model had a breast exposed, a male

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Alanui RTW Fall 2018

Launched as a brand focused on a single product — a luxury cardigan infused with a free-spirited, boho-chic vibe — Alanui is rapidly expanding to offer knitwear-centered ready-to-wear collections.
Along with introducing several variations of its signature cashmere cardigan — which this season was embellished with a range of jacquard motifs, from a Lurex leopard pattern to images of moons, stars and yin and yang symbols — siblings Carlotta and Nicolò Oddi presented coordinated knitted pants trimmed with fringe, alpaca sweaters and cropped knitted tops showing geometric hems.
The eye-catching lineup also included new outerwear designs, spanning from a color-blocked coat with fringe on the hood to a reversible padded bomber showing one face in silk printed with a paisley pattern.

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Céline RTW Fall 2018

Phoebe Philo has left the building and Hedi Slimane has yet to enter at Céline, but the shipments must go on. The fall collection was a What Would Phoebe Do special designed by her team, which broke down into highly commercial pieces that could have been left over from last spring. An ivory knit dress was gathered into bunches fastened with what looked like big bangles in ribbed white resin and gold. Scarf dresses with abstract prints were draped and tied into loose knots around the body, forming a pretty schmatta silhouette. A burgundy leather coat had a weird cape top and there were witchy-chic boots and versions of earthy-glam jewelry that’s in Céline stores now. Philo’s devotees have one more season to get her look, but she took her fairy dust with her.

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Racil RTW Fall 2018

Racil Chalhoub is branching out into suits. The designer, known for her tuxedos, said she always knew she’d go for color when venturing into suit territory, and indeed, hers came in a rainbow ranging from red and bright pink to yellow, green and blue.
They livened up the Hemingway Bar of the Ritz as models sipped drinks with flowers poking out of the glasses. Chalhoub was clearly moved. This was the first time the bar had been privatized — though she didn’t reveal what strings were pulled to land her favorite evening spot — and her first time using models to present the clothing.
Though inspired by classic Hollywood beauties like Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Ava Gardner and Rita Hayworth, the collection was geared toward modern women.
Trousers were trim and high-waisted, or wide and straight-leg. Jackets similarly ran the gamut from fitted, for the double-breasted models, to wider, for the single-breasted ones. It made for a fun and fancy lineup of tasteful glamour.

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Leal Daccarett RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Leal Daccarett returned to its roots as providers of dresses that rise to any occasion. The husband-and-wife team focused on providing an evening-heavy wardrobe befitting a social butterfly. The designs featured an abundance of embellishments — embroideries, bows, feathers — and volume play in a tight palette of black, white and red. Francisco Leal cited the colonial past of Colombia and its push for independence as the inspiration for the season. Highlights included tops with raw edges, poplin shirts festooned with sleeves held closed by bows and a cape in contrasting tweeds inspired by the traditional Colombian ruana cape. The looks didn’t come across as what one would pick up for a regular day outfit, but Francisco Leal said that they liked to imagine “our woman brushing her teeth and slipping on a gown without effort.”

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Situationist RTW Fall 2018

Irakli Rusadze offered a sleek lineup of original and sophisticated silhouettes for fall. Presenting in the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art museum, the designer showed his clothing against a backdrop of artwork from fellow Georgians of his generation, including gender-bending portraits and protest graffiti.
But that’s where the youthful ingenuity ended: Rusadze’s collection was a mature exhibit of highly skilled tailoring. Eye-catching leather pieces included a round-shouldered coat in a reddish brown, paired with trim trousers. Men were dressed in military-style suits, with wide shoulders and a cropped waist.
Also displayed was a rack of pieces made from the same white cloth, the better to emphasize the shapes of the clothing. Rusadze only works with all natural materials such as cotton, wool and leather; transferred to these rich fabrics, the clothing rose to a new level.

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Joseph RTW Fall 2018

Louise Trotter introduced interesting, new elements to the luxurious Joseph universe by exploring the bounds of attractiveness. In the most striking example, she covered a pair of pointy, leather boots with a blue layer of plastic, invoking cheap, throwaway foot covers for travelers.
Autumn tones were mixed with synthetic colors like neon yellow, and high-end fabrics were layered with a plastic coating. “I explored where good taste and bad taste meet,” she explained.
The fabrics were rich, down to the details: fine wool threads were twisted to provide rigidity, and synthetic threads were woven into silk. Trotter subverted classic fabrics as well, using a thick cotton gabardine, suitable for outerwear, to make a shirt.
A chunky hand-knit thick-ribbed sweater was paired with a long, pleated skirt, in an electric blue. The overall result of this investigation? Most of the pieces landed on the attractive side of the equation.

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Celts’ Brown: Have headache but OK after fall

After appearing to land on his head and neck after a third-quarter dunk, Celtics swingman Jaylen Brown was able to walk to the locker room on his own Thursday night in Minnesota. He later tweeted he was fine.
www.espn.com – NBA

Paule Ka RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Paule Ka offered sequins, cashmere and lots of ivory, symbolic of the label’s transition. Founder Serge Cajfinger recently returned to provide guidance after ownership switched hands from a private equity owner to French businessman Xavier Marie.
The clothes were displayed in the Paris showroom on Rue Saint-Honoré, a contemporary mix of smart and cozy garments, with a measured dose of glamour. Diane Keaton was the reference for jackets carrying a double-breasted Eighties silhouette. Diana Ross was also cited. Double-sided sequins, shiny silver on one side, matte copper on the other, added texture to thigh-high boots and a sexy jumpsuit.
A splash of mustard yellow came in the form of a luxurious, velvet suit and pattern was provided by a panther jacquard. The sleekness of the clothing subdued the jazzier aspects, but that was partly the message: keep an eye out for what’s next. The label is expected to name a new designer as it marks its upcoming 30th anniversary this year.

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Fall 2018 Trend: Fake News

The truth is that fake fur was all over the runways for fall as designers eschewed the real stuff in favor of the man-made. The debate continues to rage over which is better for the environment, but the proliferation of faux represented a cultural tipping point of sorts as brands such as Michael Kors and Gucci switched camps — and it became increasingly difficult to tell real from fake.

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Boon the Shop RTW Fall 2018

Now in its third season, and the first one open to international wholesale clients, South Korean luxury multibrand store Boon the Shop’s eponymous label offered a mix of high-end staples, ranging from tailored trousers to lightweight fur coats.
The brand’s Paris-based design atelier took inspiration from the American West and women such as Georgia O’Keefe for fall, calling attention to the craftsmanship underpinning each design for a collection in which its strong outerwear balanced heritage while offering on-trend yet functional shapes.
For its staple items, the accent was placed on basics in natural high-end fibers — cashmere, flannel, suiting — while on coats and cold weather options, lightness and warmth were achieved simultaneously in feather-light mink cardigans or shearling blazers through different means, such as the use of specialty furrier and leather-working techniques, or transformable options.
Among the standouts were a coat that had panels that could unzip and be looped around as a scarf, trousers with contrasting bands along the outer leg that unsnapped like track bottoms, shirts that could have their sleeves removed, all forming the kind of neutral base that slots in alongside more trend-driven brands on the luxury floor.

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Ioannes RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Johannes Boehl Cronau offered up a contemporary lineup with a masculine-feminine blend that brushed away traditional codes of hierarchy. A short, patterned skirt was engulfed by a bulky-knit sweater, while a cropped puffer coat with a flower motif completed a dressy look, paired with loose, gray trousers.
The designer swapped last season’s chunky-heeled opened-toed boots for cowboy mules, playing with the height of their heels. Gloves rose nearly to the shoulders, puffing out at the top of the arm like fancy sleeves.
With Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando” in mind, Cronau said he set out to empower women. The designer’s modern interpretation included minimalist silky dresses, exposed midriffs and deconstructed trench coats.
 

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Joie RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Rachel Wilder-Hill equipped her English rose with some vintage Victoriana infused with rock ‘n’ roll vibes. She offered a range of dressy blouses with high collars and long cuffs and played with volume on the sleeves, adding extra puff.
A red, asymmetrical leather skirt was designed to be paired with one of these blouses, with a loose sweater on top and white, slouchy boots. The boots were also matched with a pale pink jumpsuit that had dark stitching.
The Eighties influence — a strong presence throughout the collection — also extended to a pair of leather pants with a high paper-bag waist. Back on the romantic front, Wilder-Hill applied a delicate handpainted flower print to a long, flowing dress and suggested it be paired with something more masculine, like a sweater. The mix-and-match line offered a sharp look for the L.A.-based label’s urban customer.

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Eleanor Balfour RTW Fall 2018

Eleanor Balfour’s take on party dressing was influenced by the on-the-go lifestyle of a generation full of freelancers, she said at her Paris presentation. The British-born, Central Saint Martins-trained and New York-based designer mixed dressy options with tailored pieces, and dotted the lineup with removable details.
Citing Ghanaian sculptor El Anatsui as an inspiration for the season, she showed a lineup that played on man-made fabrics — fun fur, “vegan leather,” woven textiles — and added wearable echoes of his “bottle-top” flexible sculptures made of thousands of strips of post-consumer metal as ruché sleeves or in gathers down the front of a slip dress.
Balfour meant her lineup as “occasionwear, when a girl needs an outfit that sets her apart without being a classic cocktail dress,” she said at her showroom. That wouldn’t be hard in a one-shouldered dress that transformed into a sexy slip by shucking a layer off. But there were also outfits that would work around the clock.
One trenchcoat was a mix of fake fur and pleather with a muffler-like separate hood. A double-breasted jacket in an urbane pinstripe had a utilitarian pocket, while velvet trousers had a removable belt that could be worn as a belt bag. There

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Marcelo Burlon County of Milan RTW Fall 2018

Talk about the Disneyfication of fashion: Marcelo Burlon, the streetwear designer known for his Gothic snake prints, has collaborated with the animation giant on his fall women’s collection under the County of Milan label.
A black sweatshirt featured images of assorted Disney baddies, including the evil fairy Maleficent from “Sleeping Beauty.” Their color codes – think scarlet, purple, royal blue and black – bled into the rest of the line, including a purple velvet track suit and a black bomber jacket embroidered with golden cherry blossoms.
Burlon cross-referenced this with the classic documentary “Style Wars,” which captures New York street culture in the early Eighties. The two themes are actually linked: the designer used to hang out with a bunch of graffiti artists in Milan who all went by the names of cartoon characters – his tag was Pluto.
“I didn’t know how to tag, so they used to do it for me. I was just good company,” he confessed.
His other big collaboration this season was with the NBA. Those pieces trended more sporty, with stripes in the colors of the basketball league’s red, white and blue logo. Burlon said he was trying to balance the more mainstream elements of the collection with

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Circus Hotel RTW Fall 2018

A creative and artisanal feel infused Circus Hotel’s knitwear range. A cozy cardigan was crafted by combining jacquard knitted samples with different motifs, which were mixed and matched for an eye-catching patchwork effect. A ribbed skirt, made by stitching together the sleeves of a maxi sweater, was embellished with a tulle layer embroidered with sparkling sequins, while bouclé wool was used for a cocooning teddy bear coat. Knitted wool was also pleated for an aqua green top with a soft bow at the neck, matched with pleated wide-leg pants.

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Alice Taglioni, Anthony Delon Attend Elie Saab’s Fall 2018 Show

SIBLING SCENE: He may be focused on peddling high end biker jackets these days, but Anthony Delon turned out to check out the ball gowns at Elie Saab. Sitting next to his sister Anouchka Delon, he wore a perfecto from his new line, one of the hand-scratched models.
The pair weren’t the only non-regulars in the front row — Alice Taglioni, too, is not often on the runway scene.
“It’s my first fashion show in a long time,” she said. She was on the lookout for potential red-carpet attire; the actress has been working on a movie directed by Julie Bertuccellli, playing Catherine Deneuve in her thirties.
The contingency of regulars included Anna Dello Russo, covered in black feathers to the tip of her hat, and Lena Perminova, on her fourth show.

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Moohong RTW Fall 2018

For his first Parisian presentation, Seoul-born designer Moohong Kim offered a sharply deconstructed collection in which the wardrobe of corporate bourgeois meets class warriors, all inspired by his reflection on a critique of violence.
Sounds too highfalutin a theme? Kim was not destined for fashion. After studying at Paris’ prestigious political science university Sciences Po, he read economics at the University of Warwick in Coventry, England. But instead of writing his Ph.D. thesis, he got the itch to design. “To me, designing is the same process as studying: it’s about trying out new ideas,” he said.
With no formal training but with technical lineage — his mother is Paris-based designer Moon Young Hee — he launched the brand in 2014 at Seoul’s fashion week and promptly picked up L’Eclaireur, Antonioli in Milan, Los Angeles’ H.Lorenzo and Corso Como Shanghai as stockists.
Kim’s research method is manipulating tailoring and textiles to experiment with novel silhouettes. Conversation starters for this season were jacket halves spliced together at odd angles by zips; a coated cotton that looked like real leather, opposite cracked leather that looked man-made; shirts that fall askew, leaving one sleeve hanging without function; or sneakers dismantled and reassembled into Chelsea boots.

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Áeron RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Áeron continues to focus on clean-cut aesthetics informed by its hometown of Budapest. This time, it is a Bauhaus staircase that caught the attention of Eszter Áron and provided the starting point of her work.
It was business as usual with a compact wardrobe of trousers, dresses featuring detachable aprons, and pieces lifted from the masculine wardrobe. New this season were suiting and knitwear, as well as a handful of accessories such as graphic pearl-and-gilt earrings. Fabrics stayed the course of crisp cottons, silky shirting, wool blends and the odd outlier — such as a coated nylon with a hand like washed silk — in a feminine neutral spectrum of blues, forest green and rich reds with the occasional in-house print thrown in.
Standout items included trousers with a mullet hemline; shirt dresses in a kinetic stripe pattern; asymmetric blazers, one buttoned on the side, the other with a pocket on the back, and a boxy cropped leather blouson. A workwear shirt, revisited as a heavyweight jacket in marled beige chevron tweed, looked smart rather than utilitarian.
At the presentation, chief executive officer Vivien Laszloffy said the brand has opened a pop-up store in Budapest, on Erzsébet Street, a well-to-do neighborhood nicknamed “Fashion

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Issey Miyake RTW Fall 2018

Yoshiyuki Miyamae continued to glean inspiration from nature – especially plants and animals that subsist through the harsh winter months – for his fall 2018 collection. “Quiet strength and gentleness wraps around them,” said the show notes. That aptly described this season’s clothes, too.
The designer, on a perpetual quest for new fabric techniques, introduced a method integrating both knits and pleats into Miyake’s traditional “steam stretch,” birthing a new texture. It gave the effect of light-weight, knit wool.
The first five all-white looks set the wintry scene. Here layers including long coats, vests, trousers and a skirt mixed different weaves, plus matte and shaggy materials. Next solid colors were introduced, such as burnt orange, navy blue and chocolate, and various swirling patterns, on skirts, dresses, tops and trousers.
This collection had a strength and refinement in equal measure. A standout was the calf-length coat with a ripple-weave effect over a cowl-neck shirt and trousers with swirly textures. Another striking look involved black voluminous pants with gray, vein-like lines and a shirt with a crosshatch effect.

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Yang Li RTW Fall 2018

The dates 1987-2087 embroidered on shoes and emblazoned across the chest hinted at a hundred years of Yang Li and looked ominous in the 16th-century Gothic Saint-Merri church. The mood was as dark and punky at this “otherworldly funeral-esque show,” as the London-based designer coined it, and the collection was a backward glance at the life and times of Yang Li since 1987.
As any shrewd heir would, he has sifted through the estate of seasons past for valuables. Backstage passes of seasons past dangled from bags, a collaboration with Austrian performance outdoor gear KTC. His “ghost jackets,” with their detached lining acting as backpack straps, trailed as capelets. The “our aim is wakefulness/our enemy is dreamless sleep” motto — Li has the words tattooed on him — were a nod to summer 2015 and his hookup with Genesis P-orridge. Right down to the pose, the bustier dress of look 24 was a dead-but-evolved ringer for the opening look of his inaugural Parisian show for spring 2014.
But Li wasn’t coasting on past achievements. Tailoring was still a strong suit and raw seams showed his construction work.
His modus operandi remains taking hardworking fabrics and elevating them in layered re-creations that played heavily on seam

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Kenzo RTW Fall 2018

To present their archive-based Kenzo La Collection Memento No. 3, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim held a dinner party at La Monnaie de Paris. Lavishly themed in ode to Kenzo Takada’s obsession with “Le Douanier” Rousseau, specifically his work “The Dream,” the production was full of greenery and tropicana. The tables were set with a lush, artistic botanical spread — whole pomegranates cracked open, beet lollipops, chicory — everything was edible if you could figure out how to eat it. White-gloved waiters circled the room carrying reproductions of Rousseau’s jungle works.
In between the models wearing multicolored striped knits and skirts, jacket and pants bearing jungle scenes, there were models actually dressed like big potted plants, their leaves and branches grazing guests’ heads as they squeezed through the tables. One female model walked naked, her natural silhouette emphasized by body paint, her hair plaited, as if the women in “The Dream” had emerged from the painting to do a few laps around the room and be immortalized on Instagram.
Different brands have different branding strategies. Leon and Lim’s has long been to create a memorable experience in which the clothes play a supporting role. The lead mementos from Wednesday night’s dinner party

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Mulberry RTW Fall 2018

Barely two weeks after Mulberry staged its first see-now-buy-now show for spring 2018 during London Fashion Week, the brand presented its full fall lineup during Paris. A light-filled mirrored showroom was set up to multiply the spectrum of candy colors, florals and fluffy feathers that gave Johnny Coca’s collection an ultra-feminine zing.
He captured the daffy British way of clashing the traditional and the irreverent by pairing cartoony Seventies English florals in an Easter parade palette on lean dresses and mumsy suits and trimming collars, socks and mules with marabou. Classic tailoring in got the festive treatment with wide-brimmed visor hats and jewels done in exaggerated heart shapes.
“I wanted it to be extreme but with a sense of sophistication,” said Coca. “There’s tailoring mixed with a Marilyn boudoir feeling.” To that end, some of the floral and feathered trapeze dresses would have qualified as glam lay-around the house leisure wear back in the Fifties, but would now be suited for a night out. The accessories were just as bold, with bright mules and dancing shoes done with crystal heels and trimmed in detachable jewels and feather. Bags came in heart-shaped quilting and floral prints that felt like more than a nod

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Jacquemus RTW Fall 2018

Simon Porte Jacquemus is a born storyteller, weaving a personal narrative around each collection. Morocco is where he often heads after the shows to recharge, so he decided to dedicate his fall collection, titled “Le Souk,” to those sun-soaked escapades. Who cares if the season is fall?
He opened with a rippling cream tunic that read at first like a djellaba, but was in fact an oversized jumpsuit, its swirling pant legs almost indistinguishable. Then came clingy sheer knits: a nude bodysuit, and a long, pale blue scoop-necked dress that was split to the thigh.
It was clear that local dress codes weren’t going to cramp the designer’s natural hedonism; no cultural appropriation here. He layered miniskirts under long split skirts (modesty panels, if you like), while a black shirt dress was yanked open to frame the collarbone. “I took only the colors and the good energy of Morocco,” he said backstage.
Jacquemus named his brand after his late mother, but lately, he’s been broadening his horizons. “I’ve come to realize the Jacquemus woman has many faces. It’s not just a French girl who looks like my mother. It was ridiculous to think that, but I was young. And now I’ve understood it’s

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Iceberg RTW Fall 2018

James Long’s vision for Iceberg was crystal clear and blunt enough to sink the Titanic all over again: Streetwear currency of the in-your-face logo, Pop collaboration — Mickey Mouse — and influencer/hip-hop variety. His entire collection was maxed out on basic ath-leisure merch: puffers, track suits, sporty sweaters, shopping bag totes with the Iceberg logo slapped on wherever possible. The audience was stocked with guys and girls who seemed like the selfie-loving types Long seemed hellbent on targeting in the interest of imbuing Iceberg with social currency. Will it work? Who knows, but fake it till you make it, as they say.

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Missoni RTW Fall 2018

For her fall collection, Angela Missoni was inspired by a particular moment in New York: the late Seventies/early Eighties. “That moment of joy, a moment of joyful positivity, an eclectic moment,” Missoni said backstage before her show. That time, before the AIDS crisis and the ascent of big, new-money Nouvelle Society, was carefree, boho and indulgent, its relaxed chic elevated by an undercurrent of worldliness. It’s an era we associate with the Missoni brand (never mind that the company was founded much earlier, in 1953), so it makes sense for Angela Missoni to mine the era today. It’s her challenge to control the nostalgia, lest the past overwhelm the present.
Here, Missoni did so beautifully for both women and men, celebrating the brand codes of pattern, fluidity and layering without getting lost in them. For women, she favored a long, linear silhouette in a palette from earthy to vibrant. For all its elaborate runway head-to-toe, Missoni is really about the perfect item to integrate into a real-world wardrobe not built on high-intensity mélange knits. That starts with coats and jackets, and Missoni offered some gems. Among the most striking: a belted coat made from a patchwork of vintage fabrics sourced from the house archives. The spectacular piece will be produced as a limited edition

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Antonio Berardi RTW Fall 2018

Back to Milan after nine years showing in London, Antonio Berardi paraded his fall collection show at his new atelier – a charming space with parquet floors and a stucco ceiling.
The opening look – a strapless, draped red gown – announced a softer tone. His usual dramatic, mysterious elegance yielded to new lightness and a touch of positive exuberance. This was reflected in the color palette, which included red, orange and turquoise, and the fabrics, such as the featherweight chiffon for breezy gowns embellished with tactile crystal embroideries. At the same time, Berardi’s sharp cuts, polished tailoring and sophisticated constructions were still there. Blazers featured pockets created by drapes, dresses unveiled ergonomic cuts enhanced by tonal color blocking, multi-layers created intriguing 3D effects ,and transparent inserts gave the impression of inlaid undergarments on ample taffeta and chiffon maxi dresses.
A double-breasted coat with a wide collar expressed a sartorial sophistication, while cozier looks included a sweater with cut-out details at the shoulder that was matched to a beautiful pencil skirt punctuated by tiny crystals and embroideries.
Bonded paper taffeta, holographic lace and silver, crocodile printed velvet added some striking, Beatle-like iridescence.

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Oh Snap! Jenner’s tweet sees Snapchat shares fall

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Golden Goose Deluxe Brand RTW Fall 2018

Golden Goose Deluxe Brand’s creative team imagined a girl going on holiday in her family’s house in the mountains. There, finding the wardrobe of her grandparents, she plays with vintage pieces, which she mixes and matches with her personal style.
In keeping with the theme, the wearable collection was infused with a sense of warm coziness. A cocooning faux fur oversized robe coat with a maxi hood was worn with corduroy pants and a roomy precious shearling jacket was matched with ski-inspired leggings in a botanical pattern.
Tweed was combined with shearling on a blouson worn with coordinated pants and a mannish sartorial suit was decorated with detachable faux fur pockets, which can be transformed into plush gloves.
Vintage mountain graphics jazzed up a double-breasted coat worked in a lively bubblegum pink, as well as a cotton T-shirt paired with a skirt embellished with a plissé silk insert.
Golden Goose also offered a luxurious take on denim, which was used for soft straight leg five pocket pants and for a cool bleached puffer jacket inspired by retro ski gear.

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Max Mara RTW Fall 2018

Max Mara’s fall collection was about female power dressing 2.0, or whatever this latest iteration of it is called. The brand has had the concept mastered for decades, cloaking women in the most beautifully tailored, luxuriously made coats to make them feel at home in the C-suite since they first cracked the glass ceiling. Now, power dressing isn’t about fitting into the male-dominated corporate culture: It’s about giving women freedom to dress however they want, whether in search of comfort, irreverence or classicism.
The collection addressed all these needs, styling them up with fierce femme-fatale attitude. The Max Mara woman wears the pants — and the skirts — often at the same time, as many of the looks were styled with pencil skirts, some slung with leather suspenders, skinny black pants, and T-shirts and sweatshirts done in collaboration with artist Francois Berthoud. That formed the foundation for a lineup that was still very much about powerful, beautiful outerwear. There was quite a range: A fuzzy leopard printed coat; a camel teddy bear trimmed with plush Western fringe; a mannish Prince-de-Galles topper that was oversized for insouciance. The house’s iconic camel cashmere came be-fringed and in more classic cuts. There was a

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Victoria Victoria Beckham RTW Fall 2018

Victoria Beckham channeled her love of contemporary art into this soft-edged, colorful collection that was inspired by the colors and creations of Jean-Michel Basquiat and David Hockney.
“I’m always inspired by contemporary art, and I think that you can feel that when you look at some of the prints. There’s also a bit of a Warhol feel about this collection with all the Polaroids,” said the designer, pulling out a midi skirt with a repeating pattern of blurred Polaroid images taken by the artist Maripol of Basquiat and his peers.
The collection also drew from the color palettes of both artists, in the form of a cornflower blue chunky corduroy jacket and a long corn-colored coat with a zip front and big patch pockets. Beckham went big on burgundy, too, in the form of a soft shearling motorcycle jacket and buttery leather tops and dresses.
The collection was full of textural contrasts, with a chunky fisherman’s knit sweater hanging on a rail near a snappy gold pleated skirt at the presentation space at Mark’s Club in Mayfair.
“VVB is easy to wear, with lots of soft tailoring pieces, and I always like to have fun with it as well. It’s making dressing easy for

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Moncler Genius RTW Fall 2018

“A Republic of imagination” is how Moncler described its new Moncler Genius project, which the company unveiled with a special event opening Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday.
To be sure, imagination and creativity stood out throughout the installation, which featured a building with seven cells, each of them housing one of the seven collections that Moncler will launch over the next few months with special drops. At the entrance of the space two imaginative museum bookshops displayed the lineup that was developed by Francesco Ragazzi, creative director of Palm Angels, and the eighth brand involved in the Genius project.
Lights were projected on the silver tarps covering the cells, featuring arch entrances giving access to the eight different microcosms. Reflecting the specific identity of each collection, the cells were all decorated with customized installations.
For example, Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli embellished his cell with works by artist Sidival Fila, which were deeply linked with the sense of purity infused in his Moncler Pierpaolo Piccioli collection. “I wanted to focus on authenticity and the essentials,” the designer said. “That’s the reason why I used the most basic nylon, which I crafted for the silhouettes I like, inspired by Piero della Francesca and Beato

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Emilio de la Morena RTW Fall 2018

A self-confessed “boy of the Eighties,” Emilio de la Morena looked for inspiration to Barbra Streisand’s “Yentl” musical from 1983 and all the ways it challenged patriarchy.
He translated the musical’s “spirit of defiance” with a lineup filled with bold, bright colors and sharp tailoring. There were mini tweed skirt suits, blazers done in opulent jacquard fabrics and an array of ultra feminine evening options, as in a bright blue gown featuring layers of ruffles or  playful fuchsia minidresses matched with tights in the same shade.
The mish-mash of androgynous tailoring with feminine ruffles, delicate organzas and bold colors reflected a recurring trend seen on the London catwalks throughout the week, where designers embraced all different sides of women, in a bid to project an empowering message.
“We need to change, we need to make a difference, so it’s important to offer different options and allow women to choose,” said the designer after the show.

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Nicopanda RTW Fall 2018

Nicola Formichetti isn’t a sneaker designer but his skill lies not only in his social media fluency but his ability to take something familiar in pop culture and rework it into something fresh and accessible. Since his street wear brand Nicopanda launched in 2015, Formichetti’s authentic and articulate take on irreverent youth has enabled the label to grow rapidly.
Nostalgia for the Nineties and Aughts has dominated contemporary style for the past few seasons and for Nicopanda’s fall 2018 collection, Formichetti also referenced the era. He clashed very different musical genres together – Seattle grunge and East Coast hip hop – and based his collection on fusing and reworking street wear staples synonymous with the era.
“It’s a YouTube culture so you just go from one to another and it’s a beautiful mismatch,” he said after the show.
Formichetti knows exactly where street wear is in 2018. Set against the pounding soundtrack that remixed Nirvana’s “Nevermind” with Lil’ Kim’s debut album, the fun and energetic collection  was heavy on prints – plaid, stripes, leopard and tartan, and textures – plastic, fur, jersey and sweats. There was also a whole lot of printed logo and slogan hoodies and tees in varying lengths. Plaid flannel

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Erdem RTW Fall 2018

Are the Time’s Up and #MeToo movements to blame with their red-carpet protests? There’s been a lot of black, and echoes of Victoriana, on the London runways this season, with Erdem Moralioglu the latest designer to embrace the darkness in his beautiful, if melancholy, show.
Channeling the spirit of the American dancer Adele Astaire, sister of Fred and widow of Lord Charles Cavendish, Moralioglu sent dark, flowery jacquard dresses, sheer black polka dot veils and inky furs down the narrow corridors of the National Portrait Gallery in London, which served as his show venue this season.
“Adele married the son of the Duke of Devonshire and he died very early on in the marriage. Every year after that, she would visit Lismore, the Irish castle where she’d lived with her husband. I was obsessed by this idea of this woman who keeps coming back year after year,” the designer related backstage.
He worked that obsession into dark coats, capes and dresses with gold and silvery flowers, some styled with dark polka dot tights, face veils or long gloves. He laid the same veil-like fabric over a floor-sweeping yellow or pink dresses, too, or paired it with velvet for a long dress with a

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Gucci Teases Fall Show With Ticking Invitation

GUCCI’S COUNTDOWN: As if anyone in the fashion industry could forget, Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele’s surprising invitation to the brand’s fall 2018 show on Feb. 21 is an orange timer with red digital numbers that count down to the event, sealed in a Ziploc bag. On one side, the timer warns “Parental Advisory, Explicit Content.”

Gucci’s show invitation.
On the other side, it provides details of the show, to be held at 3 p.m. at Gucci’s headquarters in Milan. As with past Gucci invitations, the designer’s lucky number — 25 — appears on the bag.

The other side of Gucci’s invitation.
The underlying message is a mystery and the fashion house is mum on show details.
Michele is known for unique and unusual invitations. A year ago, it was hard to miss — and easy to collect: A 33-rpm vinyl record. On side A, Florence Welch read from “Songs of Innocence and Experience” by William Blake. On side B, A$ AP Rocky read “A Love Letter From Frederick Wentworth to Anne Elliot” from “Persuasion” by Jane Austen. Packaged in a brown paper envelope, the cover of the record showed a photo by Coco Capitan. “What are we going to do with all this future?” was spelled out in

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Roksanda RTW Fall 2018

Roksanda Ilincic said she was looking to dress women for real life, and for once-in-a-lifetime moments, and this collection had it all. The sharp and the soft, the liquid and the structured were all done in the designer’s signature offbeat color combinations, which this season included mustard, lavender, aqua, camel and bright red.
“It was big cast, with clothes that a woman needs from the morning until the evening – all the time. I think I am a designer who always cares about women and how to dress them. I want to protect her and shelter her,” Ilincic said of her collection that was both strong and sweet.
For daytime, there were sharp camel suits with lots of volume and military rigor with a slick of red on the back or sleeves. A sleeveless camel dress was spare and elegant with a knot at the back while coats were dramatic, ranging from the long and sweeping to fuzzy, bearish ones made from brushed camels hair and left natured or dyed a Delft blue.
For evening, she tossed lightweight plaid blankets over satin dresses – some with surreal, sinuous drawings by the artist and dancer Caroline Denervaud – and others made from layered swathes

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Phoebe English RTW Fall 2018

“I lost my grandparents very close together so I spent a lot of time at funerals lately,” designer Phoebe English said of her collection, which was presented at the Crypt on the Green.
The small collection paid homage to her mother, who is still mourning the death of both of her parents. English expressed her family’s grief with asymmetric shirting with strategic cutaways and plackets in unexpected placements creating a series of gaps — almost like a void that manifests when someone passes away.
Also included were voluminous velvet pants and a smock dress gently twisted across the chest and cascaded into a double wing drape in the back. English crafted the collection in monochrome satin, velvet and corduroy, giving a nod to her mom’s favorite fabrics.
“I grew up with her wearing all that stuff so it’s all an ode to my mother,” the designer said.
This season, English teamed with knitwear designer Helen Lawrence, who created an open-knit netting that was draped over dresses as an overlay and as underpinnings layered beneath asymmetric skirts. The duo first worked together for English’s fall men’s wear collection, for which Lawrence created a series of waffle knits and winter accessories.

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Markus Lupfer RTW Fall 2018

Markus Lupfer channeled an eclectic mood for fall with a mash-up of contrasting elements, colors and textures. “I wanted to have something enchanting but almost a bit eccentric and unusual, ” he said.
Lupfer said his effortlessly cool girl — who likes to throw together odd combinations — is more grown-up this season. Contrasting elements played off of each other and felt a bit quirky, but what made it more refined was the designer’s use of luxe textiles and handmade details.
He introduced a new silhouette in the form of a trouser suit that was made with a glossy black floral jacquard worn with a faux fur coat. He revamped his knitwear, constructing fawns, foxes and lips with shiny sequins — which he threaded by hand — that were paired with below-the-knee skirts. He played with textures and placed printed flowers on sequined dresses and skirts. Other handmade details include flowers embroidered over lace dresses and skirts.
Luxe textiles included heavy knits such as Scottish lamb’s wool, which was utilized on a long overcoat. He employed faux fur on coats — which came long and short — and in a myriad of autumnal hues of chestnut, sage and army green.

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Simone Rocha RTW Fall 2018

This collection was marked by the the volume and drama that Simone Rocha has come to be known for. Inspired by the work of John Constable, one of England’s great landscape artists, she sent out a collection with a sense of grandeur, and some shots of punk.
Silhouettes swung from the grand and sculpted to the lean and loud. There were big, sweeping black tulle dresses, some with long flowing ribbons or bows, others with dark sparkles, all of them fit for a Dickensian funeral, while jackets had big leg of mutton style sleeves and jutting frills at the shoulder.
On the brighter side, a voluminous golden dress glittered with bits of tinsel fringe, while other, more sculpted ones came with flower prints that looked as if they’d been drawn from Constable’s landscapes. The grand white lace jacket and skirt that closed the show took its cue from one of Constable’s many portraits of prim ladies – although they would have been horrified to see that Rocha had slashed the sleeves.
The designer knows just how to dial down all that gravitas, and sent out a lineup of shiny vinyl coats in black or post-box red and a long, skinny dresses, too. One

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Holly Fulton RTW Fall 2018

As Holly Fulton approaches her label’s 10th anniversary, she wanted to revisit her signatures with a more mature approach. She brought together prints, embellishments and bright colors to deliver a confident, upbeat outing filled with desirable pieces.
The pop motifs and deco graphics she has come to be known for continued to play a key role: graphic illustrations of the Empire State building, with which she claims to have a long distance love affair, were splashed over maxi skirts, intarsia knits and wool shift dresses, while pencil skirts and tailored suits featured exaggerated cheetah prints.
Her oversized plexiglass and crystal jewelry was used as embellishment on outerwear: “There’s a sense of naiveté when fusing jewelry and garments which I was really drawn to,” said the designer.
Fulton has also been rethinking her business’ structure, shifting her strategy to focus on one-on-one client appointments and local manufacturing. This led her to double down on outerwear, delivering luxe studded leather jackets and playful Mongolian fur coats. A khaki leather jacket featuring shearling trim and silver stud embellishments in the shape of the Empire State was a standout.

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Monique Lhuillier RTW Fall 2018

Elegant eveningwear is Monique Lhuillier’s bread and butter. Even if her pretty fall collection was still filled with the traffic-stopping gowns she is known for, this time the designer said she wanted to introduce a new sense of ease in her offering.
Linear silhouettes gave a sense of discreet sophistication to a velvet gown with a tulle insert at the neck and to a satin style, worked in a jewel tone of blue, embellished with a delicate sequined bow at the collar. Macro polka dots injected a lively touch into a draped top worn with sleek black pants, a sculpted cocktail dress was splashed with a lovely abstract floral pattern and the sparkle of a ruffled allover sequined silver dress was softened by a classic velvet cape layered over it.
At the same time, Lhuillier didn’t disappoint the fans of her gowns, which were presented in several variations, spanning from a red number that looked like a soft cloud of organza to a strapless Old Hollywood-inspired style worked in a fresh aqua green tone.

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Marc Jacobs RTW Fall 2018

“Take it to the runway,” Marc Jacobs pronounced during a preview. On Wednesday night, he did just that, with a fearless endorsement of the kind of fashion about which he’s passionate – demonstrative, audacious, at times over-the-top.
Once again, Jacobs showed his collection with his brand mired in chatter. Two weeks ago, the company confirmed the hiring of designer John Targon, his role thought to focus on the contemporary side of the business. But since the company did not clarify his position, the speculation percolated. Meanwhile, Jacobs is crystal clear on where to focus his efforts. “No street-inspired clothes here,” he said, before running off a list of what he would show. “Jewel tones. Sumptuous fabrics. Eye makeup and nail polish that match. Incredible hats by Stephen Jones. Accessorized from the top of the head to the bottom of the foot. These are runway clothes. I don’t know what happens afterward, but they’re runway clothes. That’s what I do. That’s what I’m doing.” His near-militant tone softened. “I’m very happy doing it, by the way. I love doing this.”
That love is informed by fashion history and fandom. Here, Jacobs made his case for real fashion, fashion that’s not diluted or dumbed down, with

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Maki Oh RTW Fall 2018

Designer Amaka Osakwe took a playful jab at the press’ capacity for error in her fall collection. After a feature came out that made the brand seem lingerie-focused, Osakwe began playing around with ideas of how she would actually make bedroom clothing in a Maki Oh way. It’s not a far cry from the narrative she usually crafts for her girl; last year, it was tailored around what she would wear heading to a late-night casual encounter.
Her watchwords this time were “lazy sensual.” It described the inherent sexiness of a sheer white lace dress and metallic cami top, but was just as applicable to the languid pants and mixed print dresses that revealed bits of skin. These fluid dresses felt more in step with the colorful pattern play Osakwe offers, though in a quieter palette.
In fact, some of the strongest pieces drew from tailoring and what her girl is wearing coming home from work. There were slight subversions that provided special elevations, like a plaid blazer with a sleeve cut in a different fabric or a tailored black coat with a single sleeve that opened with a ruffle. Even with the center around sensuality, the ease surrounding these

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Naeem Khan RTW Fall 2018

Without any context, Naeem Khan’s fall runway was a kaleidoscopic mash-up of vibrant colors, textures and intricate embroidery on a wide range of evening silhouettes. And surely, glamorous excess is what his customers want. He has been focused on expanding the meaning of cocktail attire for a younger consumer over the years, namely adding in tracksuits and separates that challenge convention. The collection was certainly brimming with artful displays of color and drama, but it also carried a beautiful message of celebrating the diversity of female beauty the world over.
Backstage before the show, Khan hinted at subliminal messages of power and elegance informed by his travels. “I’m taking inspiration from all these beautiful women who are working in the fields or in the mountains and I’m taking embroideries from them and I’m making it into glamorous evening.” He blended Italian textiles with artisanal Peruvian handwork, mixed in a Japanese kimono and threw in Spanish ruffles and Indian embroidery for good measure. There were a couple too many references to clearly see the connective thread, but then again, his fanciful pieces have a more-is-more approach that attract women with an exuberant flair.
What felt most refreshing were pieces with a relaxed bent.

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All of the Empowering Moments at Fashion Week Fall 2018

Ashley Graham, NYFWThis fashion week, the industry made some seriously emboldening moves forward.
Thanks to an expanding range of sizes, ages, ethnicities and genders represented on the catwalks, every…

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All of the Empowering Moments at Fashion Week Fall 2018

Ashley Graham, NYFWThis fashion week, the industry made some seriously emboldening moves forward.
Thanks to an expanding range of sizes, ages, ethnicities and genders represented on the catwalks, every…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Calvin Klein Collection RTW Fall 2018

Raf Simons marked his first year at Calvin Klein by filling the American Stock Exchange building with a silo’s worth of popcorn, not for people to eat but to wade through and sit in, for his fall show. My dad would say, “Waste not, want not, Raf.” But world hunger is a global issue, popcorn is not exactly nutritious and this collection was about America.
Belgian-born Simons came into CK with a wrecking ball, as everyone wanted him to, and remade the house of minimalist American sensuality from his particular outsider’s view of the USA. His shows have been full of bold, challenging fashion that has already proven very influential. (See the uptick in Western boots clomping catwalks near and far). Yet despite some very beautiful clothes, Simons hasn’t painted the prettiest picture of this country and its culture. To remind you, his spring show was partially inspired by an American nightmare, which does not read apolitical in these fraught administrative times.
The initial thoughts that came to mind waiting for the show to start — “Glad I never worked at a movie theater,” “Will PVH pick up the bill for everyone’s popcorn-covered dry-cleaning?” — yielded to “Does Raf Simons hate America?” after several

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The Fall Singer Mark E. Smith’s Cause of Death Revealed

The cause of The Fall frontman Mark E. Smith’s death has been confirmed by his family in a statement posted Monday on the band’s website. Smith’s three sisters said that the singer was suffering from “horrible side effects” caused by terminal lung and kidney cancer. “Mark fought a long and hard battle after his diagnosis of […]

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Oscar de la Renta RTW Fall 2018

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia didn’t appreciate being dragged to Upper Manhattan to visit the Met’s medieval branch, The Cloisters. But when the boss insists, you do it. Back in 2013, Oscar de la Renta insisted they accompany him to experience the installation of sound artist Janet Cardiff. “I was whining, but then, I was like, it’s amazing!” Kim said during a preview. “Magical,” Garcia recalled, “one the most amazing memories we have of him.”
And one with more tangible resonance than memory. While developing their fall fabrics, that excursion to The Cloisters came to mind, which led to some research into Elizabethan textiles and ornamentation, and from there sprung a myriad of ideas about embroideries and tapestries (yes, there’s a unicorn). By gazing far into the past (and perhaps a little at Valentino), the designers delivered their most refined and resolved effort to date for Oscar de la Renta.
The collection hinged on a fungible balance between decoration and color, both announced with the first look out, a red wool-and-cashmere clutch coat held closed with a crystal-leaf brooch. The leaf motif expanded into embroidered swirls across vibrant natural-waist dresses, a black lace evening dress and oversized shirt cuffs. Textural plays swung

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Brandon Maxwell RTW Fall 2018

“I always start with an emotion,” Maxwell said backstage before his show. “This was really about going to work, and my customer.” Stating the obvious? Shouldn’t every collection start there? Maxwell explained that he finally feels confident enough to trust his own instincts through the work process, and that, after a year-and-a-half of retail sales, he’s gotten to know his customer for real rather than his imaginary perception of her. “I understand that she has more places to go than black-tie events,” he said. “I love an evening moment. But we want to evolve, and I want to grow. Now that I know the customer, I know what she’s wanting. My customers do many different things during the day.”
That realization has taken Maxwell to a more relaxed take on what remains his unapologetic embrace of traditional glamour. His customer is a high-polish kind of gal; she’s never undone, and he refuses to fake false edge for the runway. To that end, last season’s jeans proved a hit so they’re back for fall, but worn with perfectly constructed tops such as a cutaway jacket with defined shoulders. He also showed a broadened range of curvy knits, while sexy bodycon dresses bridged

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Adam Lippes RTW Fall 2018

Adam Lippes does refined daywear with connotations of ease and insouciance. He’ll say he doesn’t do red carpet, yet the playfully roomy micro sequined gown a model donned in his new Brooklyn Heights residence would have you begging to differ. Lippes is an entertainer, and he wanted to show where the clothes would typically live — namely dinner parties and less formal events. Light bites were served while models lounged and roamed about, showing how the clothes move while maintaining a sense of approachable polish.
Lippes began with research into paisley prints, tracing their modern era production to Paisley, Scotland. Interestingly enough, there wasn’t any paisley in the collection, but the elegant range was rife with heritage textiles made and sewn in Scotland. A key fabric was a Harris tweed bonded to Chantilly lace, whose months-long craftsmanship could only be admired up close. It was cut into a mannish-yet-loose coat, which had a balance of structure and softness that flowed through the rest of the collection. Outerwear was hefty while separates like wide leg trousers, Fair Isle cashmere skirts and multicolored tweed prints on silk were soft and fluid. There weren’t age limitations, but the scuba knit plaid top or bomber tucked

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Cushnie et Ochs RTW Fall 2018

In 2007, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs first appeared on the cover of WWD with their senior collections from Parsons, where Ochs won Designer of the Year and Cushnie was runner-up. A year later, they launched their own label together, making fall 2018 their 10th anniversary show, staged at the vast, raw urban space at Pier 17 overlooking the East River and lower Manhattan. “It feels good to take a step back and celebrate being in New York,” Cushnie said backstage. “We met in New York, we built our business in New York, 95 percent of our ready-to-wear is produced in New York,” added Ochs. “It really feels like a home moment for us.”
The collection wasn’t a look back in any way — the brand’s core of sleek, minimalist sexiness has been firm since the beginning — but it did come full circle. Zaha Hadid’s smooth architectural curves inspired this lineup, as they did Ochs’ graduate collection in 2007. “I wanted to bring Zaha Hadid into it without making it too hard or too architectural,” she told WWD at the time.
It felt like the same principles applied for fall 2018 as the models emerged from behind a scrim in evening silhouettes that skimmed

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Rag & Bone RTW Fall 2018 Review

Rag & Bone’s fall lineup brought back details from its origins: men’s tailoring and military-inspired touches were combined with the brand’s “iconic Englishness” in the women’s wear. Men’s wear-inspired silhouettes were abundant, like a check-print blazer shirt paired with an unlined, tailored utility jacket and the brand’s latest women’s sneaker. The Rag & Bone girl’s focus remains on “iconic pieces” — a great morning coat, classic knits and athleticwear, like a royal blue puffy jacket.
For the men’s collection, Wainwright also continued to zero in on signature staples. Utility and military references such as wool peacoats blended well with the sportier elements, such as a blue tracksuit with red side stripes, and were augmented by the solid knit and denim offering.

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Raf Simons Men’s Fall 2018

Raf Simons set up his own interpretation of a Flemish still-life painting — an opulent tableaux of fruits, red wine, loaves of bread and impressive flower arrangements — as the backdrop for his fall collection, titled “Youth in Motion.”
His inspiration this season was “Christiane F.,” the 1981 cult film directed by Uli Edel about the dangers and realities of drug addiction. “I thought he was going to put some pictures on T-shirts,” Edel said. “I didn’t realize the whole show was based on the film. It was a long time ago.”
Indeed. But Simons modernized the theatrical production by juxtaposing it with a driving techno soundtrack and colorful laser lights for that rave feel he loves so well.
The opening look — a boxy plaid coat with contrasting yellow lining over a deconstructed turtleneck with draping side panels and ultrafitted satin cargo pants — served to introduce his new silhouette.
The abundant tailored offering mirrored that silhouette with oversize blazers and skinny pants accessorized with elbow-high latex gloves.
While the theme of the show may have been dark, the use of bright colors including red, yellow, tangerine orange and purple helped to soften the mood.
Drug references surfaced both subtly, as patches on scarves and

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Fall 2018

Whistle while you work was a very apt description for Daisuke Obana this season. Never one to disappoint with his thematic collections, the N. Hoolywood designer presented a distinct, upbeat take on classic workwear for his fall collection.
Obana took some true staples — overalls in safety orange, wide-leg cargo pants and denim trucker jackets with oversized patch pockets — and gave them a youthful spin.
Volume played a key role as well, in beige coats with wide lapels, a yellow elongated hooded sweater and wide-leg trousers.
A surprise addition was the unveiling of his collaboration with Timberland Pro, the brand’s collection for true laborers. Obana tapped some real New York construction workers to model the line of authentic workwear and footwear. With their well-worn hard hats, which were adorned with stickers from various construction sites around the city, they helped end the show on a high note.

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Pantone Ranks Leading 10 Fall Colors for a Pre-Fashion Week Forecast

The global psyche is increasingly all about inclusivity, so why not for fall colors, too?
That kind of all-are-welcome approach is central to Pantone’s Fashion Color Trend Fall 2018 Report, released by the X-Rite-owned Pantone LLC. Building off its gender-neutral take on fashion colors, the Pantone Color Institute has culled a Top 10 list that plays up seasonless shades, including a few that are far from wintry. Designers and consumers are pedaling away from cyclical trends in favor of more self-expressive, nontraditional choices, according to Pantone Color Institute’s executive director Leatrice Eiseman.
Leading this fall’s Top 10 list are Red Pear, Valiant Poppy and Nebulas Blue, followed by Ceylon Yellow, Martini Olive, Russet Orange and Ultra Violet. Ranking eighth through tenth are Crocus Petal, Limelight and Quetzal Green. Save for the autumnal-inspired Red Pear and Russet Orange, most of these shades don’t conjure up images of afternoons raking leaves in the yard.
From Eiseman’s authoritative viewpoint, people are more willing to turn over a new leaf when it comes to color. While colorists, designers and editors might be aware of how subtle nuances in color can be found by using different fabrics and textures, the average consumer is now becoming more fascinated by

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Rachel Zoe RTW Fall 2018

“This collection means so much because it’s my favorite one since my first collection,” said Rachel Zoe of her fall 2018 presentation, her 28th outing since adding “designer” to her many job descriptions. “It’s got all my favorite things: sequins, fringe, gold, velvet, lace. Why not, right?”
For Zoe, especially when designing for her favorite season, piling on the lush fabrics only adds to the Hollywood glamour vibe. The setting – the soon-to-be One Hotel on Sunset Boulevard, its grand staircase draped in red velvet – amplified her message. As guests like Kris Jenner, Paris Hilton and Molly Sims made their way inside, it was clear that Zoe knows who and what her customer aspires to.
“Life should be a party. Even if you are not actually at a party, you should dress like you are,” she said. “As a designer, I set out to make glamorous clothes that somehow can work into your everyday life. To see so many of my designs come to life on all of [the guests] here, it never gets old.”
In addition to her mainstay palette of gold and black – which she employed in a crocodile-textured pantsuit, a gold leather-trimmed tuxedo and shimmery velvet and hammered

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Men’s Fall 2018 Trend: Euro Trip

Heritage men’s wear and youthful street influences were on full display on Europe’s fall runways, where sharp double-breasted tailoring faced off against statement puffers, while pops of Instagram-friendly safety orange enlivened the season. 
Monster Mash
Double Play
Pumped Up
High Visibility
 

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Rodarte RTW Fall 2018

As brands search for ways to stand out amid an increasingly crowded show calendar, Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy opted to skip the catwalk entirely this season in favor of a portrait portfolio featuring some of the women who inspire them.
Kirsten Dunst (pregnant with her first child), Kim Gordon, Grimes, Gia Coppola, Miranda July and Ava Phillippe are among the talents they tapped to pose in outfits from their fall collection, which were also displayed on dressmakers’ forms in a Paris showroom.
Standing against a painted backdrop in ruffled lace blouses, flamenco frill skirts or sheer dresses with embroidered floral motifs, Rodarte’s eclectic cast of characters could have jumped out of a vintage Hollywood movie set in turn-of-the-century theaterland.
The duo played with a multicolor palette: baby blue for a simple tulle bustier gown, lipstick red for a dress covered in tiny fabric rosettes and a trail of velvet butterflies. There was a costume feel to some of the looks, such as an oversize artist’s smock covered in tiny silver sequins.
Kate Mulleavy said their recent feature film debut, “Woodshock,” has set them on new paths to self-expression. “We’re kind of now more freeing ourselves from what are the traditional ways that you

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John Varvatos Men’s Fall 2018

John Varvatos went “rogue” for his fall show, eschewing the official fashion calendar to present on the eve of Grammys weekend in New York.
He selected an old synagogue on the Lower East Side and filled the front row with musicians and executives in town for the big event at Madison Square Garden: all three Jonas brothers, Thomas Rhett, Young Paris and Iggy Azalea among them.
It was ironic then that this season, Varvatos showed less of a rock ’n’ roll aesthetic than in the past. “I never think of us as rock ’n’ roll,” the designer said backstage before the show. “That’s other people’s perception. But it does have an edge to it.”
Instead, the designer set out to “change it up,” with a show he titled “John Varvatos 2.0” that “explored the notion of looking back to look forward,” according to the show notes.
He turned to his greatest hits over the past 17 years — textured fabrics, handknit sweaters, hand-finished leathers and pumped-up trainers — modernized in terms of silhouette and materials — to offer his take on the street “and how we’re living today.”
Despite the slightly oversized proportions, the collection was not streetwear — intentionally. “I appreciate streetwear but I’m

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Maison Rabih Kayrouz RTW Fall 2018

“It’s Couture Baby,” proclaimed a red neon sign overlooking the nave of the American Cathedral in Paris, where Rabih Kayrouz showed his fall collection. It was and it wasn’t, as the designer mixed one-off creations with ready-to-wear in his display, which blended softly tailored daywear with high-shine evening gowns.
Kayrouz likes to bring a performance element to his shows, which this season featured ballet dancer Marie-Agnès Gillot alongside jewelry designer Noor Fares — making a cameo appearance as the bride — and writer Sophie Fontanel.
Swathed in a navy mohair coat and orange felt dress, Gillot appeared several times during the show, sliding down the marble steps of the chancel and rolling on the marble floor. Her impassioned performance, which she kept up even as the designer was taking his bow, threatened at times to overshadow the clothes.
Because contrary to what his groovy sign may proclaim, Kayrouz is not a showman when it comes to designing. Working in a palette of navy, khaki, orange and white, he showed variations on trenchcoats, peplum tops and paneled dresses aimed at a confident woman who shrugs off trends.
After-dark options included a bustier gown in an iridescent fabric covered in nude tulle, and a sleeveless gold

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Acne Studios RTW Fall 2018

Jonny Johansson dedicated the collection to a bunch of his music friends who recently moved outside of Stockholm — a place far, far away from the fashion scene — “to gain some creativity.”
Worked in weird, muted colors, the vagabond-hippie silhouettes looked as though they’d been cobbled together from the wardrobe of an abandoned country house, including the fancy coats in faded florals tied with shoelaces.
There was also the feeling of coming down from an acid trip in the countryside with, poking out from under the coats, flares in polka dots and tacky Seventies florals, worn with thick mohair socks and slipper sneakers with a molded rubber tongue inspired by doormats.
“We can’t have heels if we’re not in the city, and it needs to be easy, so I turned them into slippers basically,” said the designer.
The handmade rainbow knits were equally cute among a range of great outerwear options checked blanket coats, oversized trenchcoats with raglan sleeves and snap closures, and a rusty wool coat with panels of fake fur.
Sheer black slips in floral embroideries were layered over dresses in old school wallpaper prints. Long T-shirt dresses in irregular frayed pleats worn with superfine long-sleeve mohair sweaters and long knitted scarves

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Sandro Fall 2018

Corduroy formed the centerpiece of Sandro’s lineup for fall, turning up in all shapes and sizes. Thick for the rusty brown trouser and jacket ensemble; superthin for its elegant cousin, a navy blue suit ideal as eveningwear. Designer Ilan Chétrite employed the fabric for more unusual styles, including a letterman-style jacket with elegant white leather trimmings on the pockets. A cozy, camel-colored duffle coat had a fleece lining.
The brand worked with the performance textile specialist Helly Hansen for the sporty line, which included a coat for snowboarders. Pants ran straight, chopped at the ankles, for a contemporary twist to the Seventies-infused collection. Chétrite cited childhood Polaroid shots as inspiration, which was felt in the color palette, with mustard and camel featuring prominently. This was a smart collection, relaxed and modern.

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Proenza Schouler Fall RTW 2018

Paris is a glorious place. Paris isn’t a panacea to remedy a collection low on newness. Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are extremely talented, highly skilled designers with a point of view and a sense of daring. They’re the ones who set New York youthquake in motion more than a decade ago. Now, like countless others across the industry, they’re facing essential fork-in-the-road questions, including how to continue to develop their business and, as reported in WWD last week, whether to reembrace New York as part of a small collective of cool-reputation designers who would show on a December-to-June schedule.
The above may have been points of distraction that played into the disappointing fall ready-to-wear collection McCollough and Hernandez showed on Monday. Or maybe not. After three compelling outings that began with their remarkable spring 2017 collection, this may maybe a mere creative breather. Not every serve is an ace. Backstage postshow, McCollough spoke “a new type of eclecticism,” and Hernandez, “A little bit of this, a little bit of that. A little bit of West Coast, a little bit of East, a little bit of New York showing in Paris,” he said. “The whole thing is just a global community these days, and we wanted something

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Civilization 6: Rise and Fall Makes it Fun to Fail

It is a dark time for the Cree Nation. Having failed to achieve greatness during the Ancient Era, we enter the Classical not with dreams of grand temples and expanded borders, but with the grim knowledge that all we can do is gather around the hearth fire and ride out the coming storm.

I’ve long been critical of historical strategy games for encouraging the player down an unimpeded path of snowballing progress. That’s just not how history works. For every great Roman emperor, you get a handful of terrible ones. Every civilization that has experienced a golden age of knowledge and military supremacy has also faced crisis and collapse. The system of Dark Ages and Golden Ages in Rise and Fall seeks to introduce some of that into the Civ 6 experience. And I actually had the most fun while I was failing.

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Hermès Men’s Fall 2018

The “Game of Thrones”-style backdrop – set in the cloister of an ancient Paris convent, the runway wrapped around a courtyard lit by fire drums that the models had to walk through, with bits of ash blowing onto the crowd – was the perfect contrast to this super-refined collection.
Véronique Nichanian has a way of doing relaxed French style with a super-luxe delivery in terms of the materials, including a head-turning hooded parka in hazelnut crocodile. A two-tone, hazelnut and Hermès-red quilted coat in a patented fabric called Toilbright, which had the glossy sheen of a foil candy wrapper, added a cool retro feel.
This was the wardrobe of a super-wealthy bohemian, and the vibe even translated to some of the graphics, with colored mountain landscapes worked onto jacquard knits and the season’s super-sized Kelly bag, or used as an outline piping across rubberized lambskin sweatshirts.
The oversized volumes of the sweaters and pants emphasized the collection’s effortless mood. Tailoring remained fitted, with an on-trend six-button, double-breasted suit.
The traditional shearling that the house is known for was revisited in an elegant white version — a statement piece but when paired with slouchy leather pants, a green turtleneck and untucked white shirt artfully hanging

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Ann Demeulemeester Men’s Fall 2018

For fall, Sébastien Meunier took his audience on a trot through the ages with an eclectic mix of outfits, all clearly stamped with the house’s style. Long sleeves everywhere: on shirts, on jackets, both on and off the shoulders. Straps and cords flung in all directions, employed to either augment or dampen movement, and sometimes a bit of both. A hanging, unfastened belt offered a new take on accessories.
It felt like a glimpse into someone’s fantasies, with wild and sensual ideas — the kind that are normally tucked away from the scrutiny of the outside world — allowed to run freely.
From the deep past — probably even before trappers roamed the West — Meunier dug up a hulking, shearling overcoat, jet black on the outside, that stretched to the ground. It was worn bared open to reveal the skewed brown buttons on a black vest.
White blouses hailed from all times, including the days of pirates, but plenty virile enough to dismiss any reference to Prince in the Eighties or the ridiculed Seinfeld version from the Nineties.
It wasn’t all goth and grunge, even if the combat boots were nearly knee-high. Building on the label’s dreamier sides, so prevalent in the last season’s

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GmbH Men’s Fall 2018

It was a cold and rainy night in an industrial wasteland in Paris: in other words, the perfect setting for a buzzy streetwear label to stage a fashion show. Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik showed their fall lineup for GmbH at L’Aérosol, a street art center located in a former railway shed that shouted grimy cool.
The Berlin-based collective they co-founded took its exploration of cultural cross-pollination in a tougher direction this season, exploring the notion of protection with looks ranging from chainmail tops and reinforced biker jackets to pinch-waisted suits that emphasized broad shoulders.
Chunky patchwork knit sweaters nodded to Huseby’s Norwegian heritage, while Isik’s parentage shone through in wide-cut pants featuring geometric embroideries inspired by the kisbet trousers worn by Turkish oil wrestlers.
Emblazoned across the back was the phrase “My Beauty Offends You” – the title of the show – borrowed from a song by Fatima Al Qadiri that challenges traditional notions of gender identity. It made for a complex brew rich in sociological readings.
“Last season was quite optimistic and utopian, looking at our fathers. With this one, we felt it was getting more aggressive and dark,” said Huseby. “The time we’re living kind of feels a bit like

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Rossignol Men’s Fall 2018

For Rossignol’s Studio collection, Andrea Pompilio showed respect for the history of the brand and said he wished to “telegraph the precision and technicality” of the company’s expertise in the mountains for “daily, performing city pieces.”
The designer highlighted Rossignol’s down jackets, rendering them season-less and ultralight. Pompilio layered the pieces, designed to be combined freely. A standout look comprised a padded corduroy jacket with knitwear intarsia and a removable ecological shearling collar, worn over comfortable and loose pied-de-poule pants.
Functional details, such as snap-hooks and ski-lift badges, became decorative elements for the city, as did mesh pockets, applied on the sleeves of a checkered shirt in vivid and contrasting orange and blue.

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GCDS Men’s Fall 2018

“Streetwear, sometimes it’s too hard to define, it’s a place where young people want to belong but still it’s a place of creativity for me so I wanted to make it as fun and as colorful as possible,” said Giuliano Calza, who decided to stage a three-act “play” around it, booking out Milan’s Teatro Manzoni and even putting on a toffee apple stand for guests in the build up to the entertainment.
There was no script, instead the Instagrammable garb did the talking, as a series of characters emerged from tent flaps atop a faux hill and sauntered down a faux path to a soundtrack of old school cartoon classics from works including “Sleeping Beauty” and “Dumbo.”
There was a whole load of kawaii-kitsch going down, and lashings of pink, from – for the ladies – the faux bourgeois navy quilted skirt suits studded with bright red dots to candyfloss coats in tacky fabrics recalling baby blankets studded with ritzy plastic gems to – for the lads – nubby teddy bear fleeces and bright tracksuits recalling surf shorts, mixed with girly graphics courtesy of a collaboration with Disney.
The designer pumped up the volume with the purest streetwear looks, mixing shiny puffers and

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Marcelo Burlon County of Milan Fall 2018

A BMX off-road racing bicycle set the tone at the Marcelo Burlon County of Milan coed show. While a stunt biker performed in the background, Burlon’s models wore trucker jackets, sweatshirts, cropped bombers and jogging pants with details and shapes from the sport.  For fall, the designer continued to build the brand on these pillar elements but the collection also had a dark edge, with a dash of Dario Argento inspiration and tarot-card iconography: Images of a pink elephant with a red hat or an octopus under a UFO embellished a beautiful shearling jacket; puffer jackets with poison flies, as well as a skull with a rose or the now-staple Gothic graphics adorned his hoodies. Agonism and mystery were juxtaposed. Cupido, or Cupid, the god of desire and love, was also a recurring theme. One female model wore it drawn over a heart on a T-shirt, with a Mets bomber jacket and shredded denim shorts. Men donned oversized buffalo checked jackets, open over a T-shirt and worn over sports pants. Burlon delivered what his customers want – and then some.

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Source: Knee injury contributed to Cam’s fall

The NFL, while conducting a probe into concussion protocol procedures concerning Cam Newton, will take into consideration a knee injury suffered by the Panthers QB, a source told ESPN.
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Les Benjamins Men’s Fall 2018

The antique atmosphere of Florence’s Teatro Niccolini, the city’s oldest theater, created an interesting clash with the contemporary, quintessentially metropolitan look of Bunyamin Aydin’s fall collection. The Turkish designer mainly focused on a signature silhouette, combining cropped, straight pants with layered, more voluminous tops. These included oversize printed hoodies, featuring images inspired by antique monuments, such as the Egyptian pyramids, as well as quilted bombers, leather jackets, parkas and a range of anorak styles worked in velvet and fleece.
The brand also unveiled several women’s looks. While some of them were linked to the men’s lineup showing skinny pants, T-shirts and hoodies, others were infused with a clearly feminine attitude, such as tulle skirts, Eastern-inspired silk tunics with cutout details at the sleeves and sequined robe coats.

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Per Götesson Men’s Fall 2018

Per Götesson wanted to create his ideal men’s wardrobe for fall.
“I always like to explore notions of new masculinity and modern masculinity,” said Götesson. “There is something soft maybe, and then juxtaposed with typical men’s wear cuts and [embroidery] and a bit of accessories.”
The Sweden-born designer staged his first stand-alone presentation at Machine-A in Soho after showing as a part of the Topman-sponsored Man collective.
Götesson described his man as erotic, sensitive, but not afraid as well — serious yet sincere. He focused on separates rather than complete looks and aimed to fill a man’s wardrobe with outerwear, denim and shirting — making everything interchangeable.
He continued to explore denim and proportion and made silhouettes of jeans drapey or tighter cropped. He simplified an oversize coat, which came across pared back as he removed the epaulettes and belt.
He looked at utility and men’s wear items like technical Army vests. Taking details from utility garments, he created Army green thermal leggings which featured cargo pockets. He paired this with a denim zip-up anorak parka with a fleece collar.

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Craig Green Men’s Fall 2018

Craig Green channeled all of his little kid energy into this collection where clothes doubled as nomad’s tents, models wore makeshift flying machines and sweaters were patched together from colorful bits of fabric and knitwear.
The designer, who also worked with Grenson on a pair of chunky lace-up shoes inspired by toy soldiers, said he was interested in improvisations and imperfect shapes, clothes that looked as if they’d popped out of a mold, “with bits of other things still stuck inside them.”
Green, who won British men’s designer of the year for the second time at last month’s Fashion Awards in London, is the rare designer who can balance the conceptual with the commercial. Since last year he’s been selling a selection of signature core pieces alongside the runway ones, which has given him the freedom to play – and he certainly delivered.
He knows that for every man who favors a shirt or a coat with exaggerated pleating here and there, or heavy denim trousers, there’s another who doesn’t mind sweeping into dinner dressed in a geometric patchwork robe like Joseph’s Technicolor dream coat, or a sweater with cutouts and a knitted corset resembling a doily.
Models carrying wooden frames – some with

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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2018: Ones to Watch

John Alexander Skelton
Born and raised in York, John Alexander Skelton received his master’s in fashion men’s wear at Central Saint Martins and took on internships at E. Tautz and Patrik Ervell before launching his label last year. Selected by Giles Deacon, Skelton is a recipient of the Sarabande scholarship, an initiative from The Lee Alexander McQueen Foundation that aids young designers. He is working out of a studio at Sarabande in east London.
Sustainability is a key theme for Skelton, who incorporates repurposed materials into his ranges and takes a DIY approach to his work. He has a loom in his studio and many of his fabrics are handwoven, as is much of his knitwear. “Everything I dye is also done by hand using natural dye. The handcrafted element is my signature, in a way,” said the designer.
For fall 2018, Skelton has been working with mills in Ireland, mixing British wool and Irish linen.
“I have been doing a lot of hand weaving, as well, on the loom. I have also done a few natural dyes this time, one using an ancient European dye, the European version of indigo, called woad,” he said.
Skelton’s main focus has always been on the process and

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Cottweiler Men’s Fall 2018

Still high from nabbing the latest International Woolmark Prize for men’s wear, Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty took a luxurious turn for this rich, textured and colorful collection inspired by their exploration of Slovenia’s celebrated Krizna Jama cave network.
To set the mood, they staged the show in the darkly-lit mineralogy rooms at London’s Natural History Museum, where models walked a long and narrow runway meant to recall the cave tunnels, and showed off printed silk trousers, delicate fuzzy wool sweaters and a distressed, flocked nylon tracksuit that looked as if it was made from bits of shiny black rock.
“We wanted a softer touch and a more formal approach to sportswear,” said Cottrell, adding that the aim was also to create “texture, layering and a lot more luxury to the fabrics.”
Textural effects came through with accessories and styling, too: Models carried spelunking equipment and wore chunky clips around their waists, while their arms and legs were streaked with a waxy goo as if they’d just emerged from the center of the earth. Trainers and leather bags, the latter courtesy of Mulberry, looked as if they were dripping with hardened wax.
The clothes were fit more for the city streets than for dank

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John Lawrence Sullivan Men’s Fall 2018

There was a sharp, sinister edge to this collection by the boxer-turned-designer Arashi Yanagawa, who is based in Tokyo and who’s been showing in London for the past three seasons. He said he wanted to show “two sides to one person,” with inspirations from films such as “Twin Peaks,” “Taxi Driver” and “Natural Born Killers” — to mixed results.
The strongest looks were the more formal, tailored ones: A sharply-cut olive topcoat, a brown one with contrasting green lapels and a long plaid topper with extra-wide shoulders. Another terrific coat with a leopard pattern looked as if it had been yanked straight from the closet of Grace Jones, circa 1986.
A fuzzy purple sweater with one gray arm and dark green leather biker pants added a jolt of brightness – and humor – to this lineup which often traveled to the dark side – unsuccessfully – in the form of long black coats or vests done in black leather, and split-personality jeans with one denim leg and another in dark leather.

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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2018: Inspirations

From skiing to winning the lottery, London men’s wear designers looked to a wide range of subjects for inspiration for their fall collections. Here, some of the topics that sparked their creativity ahead of the shows, which begin on Saturday.
“This season we celebrate the 70th  anniversary of the Trialmaster jacket, which gave me an opportunity to revisit our British roots and present our Made in U.K. collection. Looking through our Trialmaster history led me to explore English youth subcultures and how our jackets have been adopted and customized since the Fifties. The iconic silhouettes from this era including the field, parka and biker jackets have been updated this season with added functionality and modern fabrications. The hero piece of the collection is the anniversary Trialmaster, which is entirely manufactured in the U.K., in a new tumbled coated cotton and reflective tape with badges, celebrating our heritage.” — Delphine Ninous, creative director, Belstaff
“A deep dive into the big blue. The collection stands as a creative call to arms and focuses on responsible design and sourcing to protect both planet and wearer.” — Christopher Raeburn
“It’s about escaping life, going to Noel’s house party and the adventures of kids’ coloring books.” — Liam Hodges
“This season’s collection explores

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Rodarte Skipping the Runway for Fall

Rodarte will show its fall collection via private appointments in Paris the week of Jan. 22 instead of doing a runway show as they did during couture last July. Their next runway show will be for spring 2018 in Paris in July.

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Ben Sherman Teams With Henry Holland on Capsule for Fall 2018

CALLING ON HENRY: Ben Sherman has teamed with Henry Holland on a capsule range for fall-winter 2018 to be showcased during Sherman’s runway show on Jan. 6 during London Fashion Week Men’s, WWD has learned.
The Ben Sherman x House of Holland 29-piece capsule collection features knitted polos, button-down shirts, T-shirts, jackets, denim, knitwear, trousers, tracksuits and coats. Ben Sherman creative director Mark Williams said the tie-in with Holland has added another layer of excitement to the offer.
“We believe it will appeal to a fashion-conscious consumer with an appetite for premium designer labels,” said Williams, adding that the capsule has a vibrant, colorful youthful approach.
Holland said he likes Sherman’s rich history in music and street culture. “The collection we have created together feels like the perfect reflection of our shared values and strength of spirit,” he said.

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Gemma Collins says she ISN’T suing the BBC after fall

The TOWIE star won’t sue over fall at Radio 1’s Teen Awards, adding she wants to do Strictly.
BBC News – Entertainment & Arts

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Snap’s Rise and Fall: How a Big, Splashy IPO Prompted the Doubters to Keep Mum

Bankers and investors had concerns about nonnegotiable conditions made by Snap ahead of its IPO, plus broader worries about the app-maker’s growth prospects, but didn’t want to risk losing a piece of the potentially blockbuster deal. ​
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23 White Boots That Are the New Black Boots for Fall

ESC: White BootsWhen it comes to fall footwear, you’re all about the closed-toe classic black boot.
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Picked Up or Canceled? How the New Fall TV Shows Are Faring

DynastyWe’ve got good news and bad news, TV fans.
The good news? Five new fall shows have received full-season orders so far. Huzzah! The bad news? A couple of newbies have been unofficially…

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Your Perfect Fall Outfit, Based on the Show You Binge Watch Most

ESC: Binge TV Fashion Now that the weather is changing, we’re spending a lot more time inside, binge watching our favorite shows.
Between HBO Go, Netflix and Hulu, there’s enough on-demand television…

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Your Perfect Fall Outfit, Based on the Show You Binge Watch Most

ESC: Binge TV Fashion Now that the weather is changing, we’re spending a lot more time inside, binge watching our favorite shows.
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StreetModa.com – Ladies It’s Time to Reboot Your Style at StreetModa.com! Fall Styles on Sale Now

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StreetModa.com – Ladies It’s Time to Reboot Your Style at StreetModa.com! Fall Styles on Sale Now

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StreetModa.com – Ladies It’s Time to Reboot Your Style at StreetModa.com! Fall Styles on Sale Now

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Vanessa Hudgens and Jennifer Lopez Are BFF Fall Fashion Goals

ESC: Jennifer Lopez, Vanessa Hudgens While you appreciate your best friend’s style, you don’t dress the same, even if you borrow each other’s clothes from time to time.
This is the beauty of the relationship…

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Will Harvey Weinstein’s Fall Mean the End of Bullying Bosses?

In an industry known for attracting its share of screamers, few raged as violently as Harvey Weinstein. “There was a lot of pounding his fists on the desk and a lot of yelling,” said one of his former employees. “There was an anger inside of him that was jarring and scary.” Another onetime staffer says […]

Variety

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Give Us Your Honest Opinion on Dynasty, The Gifted, The Mayor and 7 More New Fall Shows

Nathalie Kelley, Jeremy Piven, Lea Michele, Sean TealePhew, we don’t know about you, but we’re tired.
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28 New Fiction Books To Add To Your Must-Read List This Fall

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Danielle Frankel Bridal Fall 2018

Designer Danielle Frankel debuted her namesake bridal collection for fall 2018 that was both parts refreshing and chic. The offering was filled with fashion, gowns and separates fit for today’s alternative bride.

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Kerry Washington’s Fall Boots Are Red Hot

ESC: Kerry WashingtonLet’s be real: Red over-the-knee boots sound scandalous.
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Reem Acra Bridal Fall 2018

Reem Acra’s latest bridal debut included regal gowns paired with ethereal touches a la baby’s breath crowns and accents.

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Marchesa Notte Bridal Fall 2018

Marchesa Notte’s fall 2018 bridal offering felt timeless with modern touches of 3-D floral appliqués, feminine bows and honeycomb lace. The collection mixed elegance with easy through light and airy gowns.

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Here Are 17 Trendy Dresses You Can Wear To A Fall Wedding

And they’re all under $ 100.
Fashion News, Celebrity Style and Fashion Trends – HuffPost Style
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