Simon Porte Jacquemus on Showing Men’s in Marseille

PARIS — “Don’t wear heels,” said Simon Porte Jacquemus, who later today will show his first men’s collection on a secluded beach in one of the hidden bays of the Calanques, the rocky inlets around Marseille and nearby Cassis in the South of France. For the designer, who likes to go swimming in the remote spot, it’s “one of the best places on earth.”
“It’s a dream. You don’t feel like you’re in Marseille anymore. It feels like Greece, it’s so spectacular, with the rocks and the azure waters,” he said.
So what about the seating? “Blue towels. The set will be so pure: just blue towels on a huge beach,” added Jacquemus.
As the latest designer to stage an event in the South of France, following Louis Vuitton and Gucci’s recent cruise shows in Saint-Paul de Vence and Arles, respectively, the maverick talent, whose sun-soaked universe is deeply inspired by his upbringing in Provence, is cognizant that setting a show some 500 miles from Paris, the day after Europe’s men’s season wraps, is a tad cheeky. But — even if it was a logistical nightmare securing access to the remote site — he wouldn’t have it any other way.
Besides, Jacquemus has never

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Jacquemus RTW Fall 2018

Simon Porte Jacquemus is a born storyteller, weaving a personal narrative around each collection. Morocco is where he often heads after the shows to recharge, so he decided to dedicate his fall collection, titled “Le Souk,” to those sun-soaked escapades. Who cares if the season is fall?
He opened with a rippling cream tunic that read at first like a djellaba, but was in fact an oversized jumpsuit, its swirling pant legs almost indistinguishable. Then came clingy sheer knits: a nude bodysuit, and a long, pale blue scoop-necked dress that was split to the thigh.
It was clear that local dress codes weren’t going to cramp the designer’s natural hedonism; no cultural appropriation here. He layered miniskirts under long split skirts (modesty panels, if you like), while a black shirt dress was yanked open to frame the collarbone. “I took only the colors and the good energy of Morocco,” he said backstage.
Jacquemus named his brand after his late mother, but lately, he’s been broadening his horizons. “I’ve come to realize the Jacquemus woman has many faces. It’s not just a French girl who looks like my mother. It was ridiculous to think that, but I was young. And now I’ve understood it’s

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Jacquemus Plays by His Own Rules

PARIS — Simon Porte Jacquemus is no stranger to taking a gamble.
He kick-started his career by staging a happening in front of a Dior show during Paris Fashion Week, complete with models brandishing “Jacquemus on Strike” signs. Vogue Paris editor in chief Emmanuelle Alt stopped to see what the fuss was about, and a year later, his work was featured in the magazine.
Since then, Jacquemus has gained a reputation as one of the most talented young designers on the Paris scene, whose name is regularly put forward in the ongoing game of designer musical chairs at major houses. Yet the 27-year-old self-described “son of farmers” continues to play by his own rules.
When Dior decided this season to move forward its show to the first day of Paris Fashion Week, which also featured Saint Laurent, Jacquemus was faced with the prospect of being sandwiched between two powerhouses.
He decided to go double or nothing and stage his display the night before, on the closing day of Milan Fashion Week, when many fashion editors are traditionally in transit — or simply not in the mood for an evening show.
The gamble paid off, as it usually does for the plucky designer, who launched his

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Jacquemus RTW Spring 2018

Mom. The first influencer. At some point, many designers offer overt homage. Simon Porte Jacquemus did so initially by taking his mother’s maiden name, Jacquemus, for his collection. For spring, he celebrated a specific element of her style. “I don’t think I ever saw my mother more beautiful than on evenings after the beach and probably when she was in love,” he wrote in his program notes. Mother and son would take a walk, visiting “souvenir shops filled with earrings, ceramics, sarongs and headbands.” “La bombe,” he called her archetype.
La bombe’s vibe of upbeat, beach-y glamour defined the collection, “the idea of going down to the harbor after a long day at the beach and wanting to feel beautiful,” Jacquemus said post-show. Yet he presented in the glorious Picasso Museum, perhaps to telegraph that these clothes are polished enough for any urban situation. While so many other designers, young and not so, are racing to do street, Jacquemus’s theme let him have it both ways – dressing down as a way of dressing up, keeping the attitude cool and the look hot. What’s more relaxed than artfully mismatched drop earrings and, for heels, whimsical geometric configurations? What’s sexier that a swimsuit reimagined

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Pierre Cardin Salutes Jacquemus

ART HOUSE: Guests including Fanny Ardant, Vincent Darré and Jeanne Damas flowed into the Picasso museum in Paris Monday night, passing through a courtyard strung with lightbulbs, a lemon tree in its center, and into the upper story of the site to take in the Jacquemus show.
Even Pierre Cardin turned out for the event, claiming it’s the only young designer show he’ll attend. “Out of the shows, I only go to Dior, who always [invites] me. I don’t tend to go to other shows as it’s very delicate; if I go to one then I have to go to all of them,” said Cardin, who lauded Simon Porte Jacquemus’ talent. When asked if he could see the designer being a potential contender to his throne, he replied: “No, he has his own personality, which is super important in this job.”
Surveying the crowd, Caroline de Maigret revealed it was one of her favorite museums. “I come here really often and what I adore about the new version of the museum since its renovation is the fact that you also have his private collection; it’s really interesting to see what he wanted to collect and who his friends were. The last time

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Net-a-porter Launches Jacquemus Capsule Collection

Jacquemus is the latest in Net-a-porter’s stable of designer collaborations. Launching on Nov. 28, “Bleu Blanc” is a nine-piece collection of ready-to-wear by Paris-based designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, based on the asymmetric shirting and men’s wear-inspired styles from his main collection. The pieces include cinched shirtdresses, a dress made from two jackets sewn together, a wrap coat, a cable knit sweater, an off-the-shoulder top, pants with exaggerated cuffs and a skirt that looks like it was made from a blazer. It’s all done in white, navy and pinstripes, hence the name of the collection. Prices range from $ 115 and $ 840.
Net-a-porter has carried Jacquemus for a year and reports strong sell-throughs for the collection. “The reasoning behind the capsule was to establish ourselves as a destination for the brand,” said Lisa Aiken, Net-a-porter’s fashion director. “They haven’t done any capsules with any other retailers, so we wanted to be the first. We are also selling out of the existing collection so quickly, and wanted to give customers an opportunity to shop something special from the brand between the seasons.”
Some of the other collaborations Net-a-porter has rolled out this year were with J. Crew, Gucci and Sarah Jessica Parker’s SJP shoe collection. During

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