John Galliano defines millennial couture, while Giorgio Armani looks back and doesn’t entirely move forward.
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John Galliano defines millennial couture, while Giorgio Armani looks back and doesn’t entirely move forward.
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COMPLETELY SURREAL: Toiletpaper’s cofounders Maurizio Cattelan and photographer Pierpaolo Ferrari have extended their surrealistic influence through a new collaboration with Maison Kitsuné.
Meant to challenge the limits of fashion as art, Toiletpaper’s bright and racy images have been splashed onto T-shirts, sweatshirts, caps, iPhone cases and tote bags. Available as of Saturday in Maison Kitsuné’s New York store, the 15-piece collection is a second act, The first directional capsule collection between both parties debuted in Tokyo. An image of a fluffy white cat surrounded by white mice has been stamped on a smartphone case, and a close-up of a tongue covered with red, white and blue toothpaste decorates a tote bag. Retail prices range from $ 45 to $ 630 for the new genderless designs.
As the evocative name of their magazine suggests, Cattelan and Ferrari are known for pushing boundaries through their artistic and commercial enterprises. Their black humor is evident in Toiletpaper’s collection of plates, mugs, tablecloths, teapots, soaps, umbrellas and other items for the Italian design company Seletti. A plunger, for example, is among the unexpected imagery they have used for that collaboration. Ferrari has shot a few seasonal campaigns for Maison Kitsuné in the past. Earlier this year the design duo
“It’s Couture Baby,” proclaimed a red neon sign overlooking the nave of the American Cathedral in Paris, where Rabih Kayrouz showed his fall collection. It was and it wasn’t, as the designer mixed one-off creations with ready-to-wear in his display, which blended softly tailored daywear with high-shine evening gowns.
Kayrouz likes to bring a performance element to his shows, which this season featured ballet dancer Marie-Agnès Gillot alongside jewelry designer Noor Fares — making a cameo appearance as the bride — and writer Sophie Fontanel.
Swathed in a navy mohair coat and orange felt dress, Gillot appeared several times during the show, sliding down the marble steps of the chancel and rolling on the marble floor. Her impassioned performance, which she kept up even as the designer was taking his bow, threatened at times to overshadow the clothes.
Because contrary to what his groovy sign may proclaim, Kayrouz is not a showman when it comes to designing. Working in a palette of navy, khaki, orange and white, he showed variations on trenchcoats, peplum tops and paneled dresses aimed at a confident woman who shrugs off trends.
After-dark options included a bustier gown in an iridescent fabric covered in nude tulle, and a sleeveless gold
For the first time John Galliano has commissioned artwork, by Jessi Reaves, to present alongside his spring couture collection.
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Priscilla Royer channeled a good girl vibe for pre-fall, taking her inspiration from Catherine Deneuve’s role in Roman Polanski’s 1965 psychological thriller “Repulsion” – the part before she starts murdering her suitors, that is. “It’s pretty, rather than sexy,” said Royer.
Innovative rainproofing techniques, reversible solutions and an overwhelming choice of shapes, as ever, meant there was something for everyone here, and for every occasion.
For a walk in the park, there were royal blue, beige, russet and gray wool designs, some adorned with tartan or checked ribbons attached with belt buckles, others in all-over blue tartan.
For work, there were wool fedoras circled with a houndstooth ribbon, or for the more outgoing, a reversible cloth cap in the same check fabric with the house’s familiar cat’s ears, beige on the one side, black and white on the other for maximum versatility. A dusty pink velvet beret was also particularly cute.
Out on a date, meanwhile, the pretty girl came into her own, sporting a cap with a jacquard rose motif, another with a wrap front in a metallic lurex fabric and a third molded version, with the cat’s ears, covered with little bows.
The rose motif was more understated but very feminine when embroidered
MAN UP: With Paris Men’s Fashion Week set to kick off Tuesday, management at Maison Margiela has confirmed that the house on Friday will present the first men’s collection entirely created and developed under the direction of John Galliano.
The show will take place in the Salle Turenne of the Musée de l’Armée in the Hôtel des Invalides, a complex of buildings in the city’s 7th arrondissement containing museums and monuments relating to the military history of France.
Since joining the OTB-owned house in October 2014, Galliano has had no official involvement in the men’s collection, according to Riccardo Bellini, the house’s chief executive officer. It’s been a step-by-step process for the designer.
“Creating a new aesthetic language rooted in the maison’s couture spirit has always been at the core of Mr. Galliano’s creative vision for the future of the house. Rather than curating the past we have chosen to look at the future and John Galliano’s vision represents a forward-thinking view on the maison and its DNA,” he said. “This collection will offer an elevated and powerful new foundation for men’s wear, strongly positioned within the luxury arena.”
For men’s, the brand counts about 60 direct stores and around 400 multibrand and department stores worldwide.
SECOND LIFE: An Azzedine Alaïa retrospective slated to open at London’s Design Museum in May figures among the ongoing homages to the recently departed couturier. But for anyone pondering the fate of the house, the show will go on.
Its next ready-to-wear and accessories collections will be presented in January and March, according to a statement released by Maison Alaïa on Monday. However, no information was provided on who will design them.
Caroline Fabre Bazin is Maison Alaïa’s studio director.
The house and its know-how is also set to live on through a series of exhibitions and events, working with various collaborators from the Alaïa “family” and kicking off with an exhibition timed for Paris couture week in January curated by Olivier Saillard, who was behind a major Alaïa retrospective that marked the reopening of Paris’ Musée Galliera in 2013. The new exhibition will be held at the house’s headquarters in the Marais district, at the Galerie Alaïa, on Rue de la Verrerie.
Timed with the London Alaïa retrospective, meanwhile, will be the opening of the Compagnie Financière Richemont-owned brand’s first London flagship, located at 139 New Bond Street. The iconic designer, who died of heart failure last month, had helped to curate the
ALL WHITE: Maison Margiela’s iconic white lab coat is ready to hit the streets.
The Paris-based fashion house has collaborated with outerwear maker Mackintosh to create two exclusive trenchcoat designs for its spring 2018 men’s wear collection, including a white version featuring signature details such as white horn buttons and four stitches on the back.
Martin Margiela settled on the white lab coat as a staff uniform shortly after founding the maison in 1988, as part of the brand’s collective identity. It is worn by everyone from artistic director John Galliano to the house’s interns.
The second design is inspired by the Mackintosh archives, with the collar and cuffs reworked using the so-called décortiqué process that Galliano explored in his spring Artisanal collection.
A gray trenchcoat from Maison Margiela’s collaboration with Mackintosh.
The waterproof coats are made from rubberized fabrics, with all seams taped and glued to create a seamless effect. The two numbered limited-edition coats will be available from December in Maison Margiela boutiques, Mackintosh flagships and selected multibrand stores.
The collaboration will also include several women’s looks, featured in Galliano’s spring collection, which will go on sale in March.
The Scotland-based Mackintosh, which is owned by Japanese group Yagi Tsusho, has been upping its fashion
NOW YOU SEE IT: Maison Margiela is ready to lift the veil a little further on its creative process.
The Paris-based house, famed for its anonymous approach to design, will launch a new Instagram Stories series with the hashtag #MaisonMargielaInsideOut during the finale of creative director John Galliano’s women’s wear show, scheduled to take place at 11 a.m. on Wednesday.
The first in the series is a one-minute clip, directed by London-based filmmaker Sean Frank, that is being shot in the Margiela design studios in the 24 hours leading up to the ready-to-wear display. It will also be posted on the brand’s web site www.maisonmargiela.com.
In addition to revealing the inspiration and background of the collection, “Inside Out” will highlight Margiela’s new handbag, debuting on the runway. Further instalments will follow, all linked to the rtw activities of the house.
The concept comes on the heels of the Maison Margiela Artisanal couture show in July, which featured a decor showcasing the offbeat items with which Galliano surrounds himself while he works, as well as hair-and-makeup stations. The idea was to provide guests with an inside look at what goes on at the Maison.
“Strategically, we want to reinforce the link in messaging between our highly
FINAL ACT: Maison Ullens is parting ways with its creative director Kim Laursen after six seasons of collaboration, the house said Wednesday, citing an evolution in brand strategy as the reason behind the decision. Laursen’s final collection for the house will be presented in October in Paris. From then on, collections will be designed in-house.
Laursen, who is Danish, previously worked for Christian Lacroix, Azzaro, Elie Saab and Kenzo. Among her career highlights at Maison Ullens, America’s First Lady Melania Trump wore a custom-made belted leather jacket and skirt by the Belgian label for a visit to the Magritte Museum in Brussels in May, accompanied by wives of other national leaders who were attending a summit of the NATO military alliance across town. Other high-profile clients of the house include IMF’s Christine Lagarde, Catherine Deneuve and Kelly Rutherford.
Founded by Baroness Myriam Ullens de Schooten in 2009, the brand specializes in luxury travelwear, with a focus on knitwear, leather and cashmere pieces.
THE PRICE IS RIGHT: French label Maison Standards, which operates on a direct-to-consumer model offering high-end, seasonless basics, is eschewing the summer sale model in favor of a “pay what you want” policy on a selection of end-of-line products.
“We’re taking advantage of the sales period to talk about our model,” explained brand founder Uriel Karsenti. “It’s about putting the accent on transparency and the true value of the product.”
It is the second time the brand has undertaken such an initiative, after it debuted the concept in January. “Consumers easily adhered to the concept,” said Karsenti. “They were happy to participate, and we recruited 40 percent of new consumers.”
The current campaign runs on the brand’s website from today until the end of the month, with consumers encouraged to choose between three different prices for each product included in the offer.
The basic level covers cost of the item and its transport, a second price band integrates development costs and salaries, while the third allows the brand to finance new developments.
This means at the lowest level, a simple cotton t-shirt for women starts at 29 euros, or $ 32 at current exchange, and its price rises to 38 euros, or $ 42, for customers who
MM6 Maison Margiela’s catchphrases for resort included “industrial, not artcraft” and “similar items, new contexts.” Hmmm. Let’s just say the lineup offered sleek interpretations and twists on both archival and new ideas. The design team emphasized flat silhouettes; pieces that looked terrific in both 2-D and 3-D. For instance, a red, sleeveless knit with zippers up both sides took shape as either a dress or a top while two dresses — one in black and the other in red — revealed a rectangular, tacked-on cape when worn.
Velcro was employed extensively. Socks could be added or detached from Velcro-sole sandals, while a top and dress could be wrapped and fastened in endless ways thanks to the adhesive. Also customizable, in three steps: a pant, top and shoes. The first step comes at purchase: rigid, white cotton pants, kept stiff from a vegetable glue bind. Step two: wash the pants. As this happens, the fabric becomes bleached through and separates, giving the pants a much softer texture. Step three: the canvas can be cut away to reveal great, dark wash jeans with deconstructed details.
While there was less denim than prior seasons, a great pair of jeans with handkerchief hems stood out. Bestsellers
PRESS PAUSE: Maison Margiela will sit out the Paris men’s shows this season as it undergoes a strategic review under chief executive officer Riccardo Bellini, who joined the company in March.
The house is believed to be aligning its men’s ready-to-wear collection more closely with its women’s line and Artisanal couture collection. Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano oversees all three lines.
The house staged a presentation last season but has yet to decide if it will return in January with a runway or presentation format. What is certain is that it has no plans to stage a coed show during the women’s shows in September, according to a source with knowledge of the situation.
For the spring-summer 2018 season, Margiela will show its men’s collection to buyers at the Staff International showroom from June 26 to July 23. The men’s shows will take place in the French capital from June 21 to 25.
More news on Maison Margiela:
Maison Margiela Names Diesel Executive as New CEO
Designer Brands Lift OTB Performance in 2016
Antwerp Museum Goes Back to the Future With Margiela Show
SAVE THE DATE: Chloé may be poised for a fresh chapter under its new creative director, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, but the house is also keen to protect its past — and the story of the Chloé girl.
Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, the brand’s ceo, at a leisurely seaside lunch Saturday during the Hyères fashion and photography festival in the south of France, revealed the brand will open a “maison” dedicated to the house’s heritage on July 2 during Paris Couture Week.
The news comes a day after French Culture Minister Audrey Azoulay unveiled a series of measures to safeguard the country’s assets, including a permanent fashion collection, at a time when a number of couture houses, including Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, are moving to preserve their archives with state-of-the-art conservation facilities.
The multi-purpose Maison Chloé building will house the brand’s archives and showrooms as well as a photography studio, according to de la Bourdonnaye. The house’s fashion shows will also be presented there, he said, as well as exhibitions to “make the brand more accessible to the public.”
The site’s inaugural exhibition – curated by Judith Clark – will be dedicated to Guy Bourdin, “the photographer who photographed Chloé the most.”
“We want it to be an artistic place [dedicated to] femininity,” added de la
FRIENDS OF THE BRIDE: Spring is prime time for weddings and this month designers seem more enthusiastic about the bridal season, too.
Christian Siriano Bridal launched the biannual event with showroom appointments on April 13. Other well-known names will be back with runway shows, including Reem Acra, who will stage a 10th anniversary show at Tiffany & Co.’s Fifth Avenue flagship today. The designer will also present gowns inspired by the Tiffany style and glamour.
Peter Langner is also celebrating a milestone — the company’s 25th anniversary — at the Hudson Mercantile Annex 38. Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia will present their first bridal collection for Oscar de la Renta at the Morgan Library & Museum on Friday morning. Later that day Monique Lhuillier will be staging her show at L’Oreal’s Hudson Yards address. Models on the designer’s runway will also be showing off the new essie Gel Couture Bridal Beauty Collection by Lhuillier.
Another highlight in the lineup Friday night will be Carolina Herrera’s show, on which Wes Gordon consulted. Viktor & Rolf Mariage is a newcomer to the roster, as is Berta, which will debut at The Plaza April 21, and Randy Fenoli at Kleinfeld the night before. Other newcomers include
An army of eclectic-looking models stomped out into an East London warehouse space to showcase the MM6 Maison Margiela collection, which highlighted clothes that looked as if they’d been culled from a futuristic thrift store.
One model wore a smocked camisole dress seemingly crafted from plastic bag material, while another wore an oversized sweater adorned with an airbrushed mystical horse motif, offset with a spangly sequined scarf wound over her waist and shoulders. According to the label’s show notes, the collection took its cues from “London and the creative community surrounding MM6,” and it certainly had an artsy, thrown-together feel.
But what the diffusion line wasn’t so heavy on was real-world clothes – aside from the odd pair of drapey pants or denim vest – for those customers not balancing on the creative cutting edge.
NOT QUITE STANDARD: French fashion label Maison Standards is teaming up with uniform designer Pascal Humbert to create a collection of a dozen pieces.
The new line, set to launch in September, initially includes two suits for women, two for men, a skirt, military shirts and a sailor coat,with prices ranging from 70 euros, or $ 80 at current exchange, for the shirts to 195 euros, or $ 222, for the navy sailor coat. The suits are to be manufactured at Italian high-end woolen mill Vitale Barberis.
“For us, it’s about broadening our offer, with a new wardrobe that is more chic, more structuring,” said Uriel Karsenti, founder of Maison Standards. Karsenti said Humbert’s design work on uniforms grabbed his attention because of its similarities with Maison Standards’ raison d’être, which is to “find the right harmony between discretion and recognizable symbols.”
The Paris-based designer, who in the past has presented a signature label during couture week, designs uniforms for luxury brands, including most recently Biotherm.
“[The silhouettes of the Maison Standards line] are very androgynous. But men’s clothes are made for men and women’s for women. We have different measurements,” Humbert said.
The same holds true when it comes to making uniforms: “It’s nearly impossible to make something that fits
LONDON — The British Fashion Council on Monday released its final schedule for September’s London Fashion Week, with some new additions to the spring 2016 lineup.
MM6 Maison Margiela is set to stage a presentation in London, after having previously shown in New York. The Maison Margiela diffusion line had skipped the fall 2015 season, after John Galliano was named creative director of Maison Margiela in October 2014. The latest MM6 presentation — for resort 2016 — took place in New York. The spring 2016 presentation is set to take place Sunday, Sept 20.
Zandra Rhodes is also new to the schedule, with the veteran London designer staging a presentation Friday, Sept. 18.
As reported last month, Versus Versace will stage a runway show during London Fashion Week for the first time Saturday, Sept. 19, while other new names to the schedule include Alexander Lewis, Hill & Friends and Peter Jensen.
Hotel Features: Originally the Franklin Printing Company dating from the early 1900s, the Wyndham VR La Belle Maison still displays Franklin’s signature porcelain sign welcoming guests into the hotel’s eight-story skylit atrium wrapped in wrought-iron balconies. Each of the resort hotel’s 134 rooms features cable TV and DVD player as well as a fully equipped kitchen with a refrigerator, microwave, dishwasher, toaster and coffeemaker; the larger units also include stoves. Guests can lounge in the courtyard’s outdoor pool and hot tub, or take advantage of the on-site fitness center, indoor hot tub, sauna and tanning room. The hotel also has a business center with free high-speed internet access and coin-operated laundry facilities.
NEW YORK — Maison Kitsuné has landed in the Lower East Side.
The French and Japanese fashion brand has opened its second New York City store on Rivington Street between Bowery and Chrystie Streets.
Although the block isn’t a prime retail destination, the 700-square-foot shop fits right in. It sits next to Green Fingers, a Japanese botanical shop that will fill the new space with plants, and is across the street from the Freemans mini empire, whose lifestyle proposition — it expanded from a restaurant to a barber shop and men’s wear brand — is quite similar to that of Maison Kitsuné, which started as a music label, evolved into an apparel brand, and now has two Café Kitsuné shops in Paris and one in Tokyo.
Masaya Kuroki, who cofounded the brand in 2002 with Gildas Loaëc, Daft Punk’s former manager, is pleased with the location.
“It’s important to feel the neighborhood. There’s already a life and culture here,” said the architect-turned-designer, who was happy to see three stylish men attempt to browse the store before it officially opened last Friday.
Kuroki thought in dichotomies when designing the store. While he wanted the space to be a rougher take than the brand’s first New York
The model clutched her paper-bag purse like it was the most precious thing on Earth and marched headlong down the runway, as if tightening into a strong wind.
John Galliano had brought a gust of his hobo poetry — and also a visual metaphor for a recent chapter in his biography — as he stepped back onto the Paris fashion stage as creative director of Maison Margiela. His first women’s ready-to-wear collection for the house that Martin built was a winner: spunky, approachable and full of personality.
If the artisanal couture collection he showed in January left the audience wanting, here there were plenty of fine, real-world clothes: narrow maxi coats with that twinge of vintage Margiela always peddled; tattered tartan miniskirts that winked to Galliano’s London club days; and the kind of delicate, hourglass gown in black lace that Mr. Bias has always done so effortlessly.
Another daring brand reinvention is getting under way, and Galliano — rebounding from anti-Semitic outbursts that led to his ouster from Dior in 2011 and a spectacular fall from grace — demonstrated range and finesse, not letting Margiela’s conceptual roots overpower his own romantic inclinations. For every patent peacoat with roughly hacked off sleeves there was