Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall Couture 2019

Chinos, lederhosen, breeches, flares — they’re not just kinds of pants. They’re among the historical research materials pictured in vintage photos on John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal mood board, from which he distilled a plan “to explore the trouser and how that could be transformative.”
Yes, Galliano believes in the power of pants (he prefers “trousers”) to transform, not only from one item of clothing into another, but an entire belief system as represented by sartorial selection. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
In the couture collection he showed on Wednesday morning, Galliano offered part three of his exploration of decadence. “Before, we were feeling the excess, and now I’m feeling we’re in decay, reflected by the breakdown of social structure. I’m feeling impulsive and anarchic,” he said in contemplative mode during a preshow visit at the very on-brand headquarters, a bastion of beautifully curated, chic dishabille. He then added a wry rejoinder. “I sound like a teenager, don’t I?”
Not at all. Nor did he sound like a typical designer during a typical preview. Galliano’s fashion speak is often dense. Talk of decadence moving toward decay led him to observe that “so few of us remember how to rely on instinct,” and

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Sotheby’s Paris to Auction Private Collection of Vintage Martin Margiela

TREASURE TROVE: As prices for vintage soar, demand for one designer’s work shows no sign of flagging: Sotheby’s Paris said Tuesday that it would hold an exhibition and online auction this fall dedicated to Martin Margiela.
Nearly 220 items of clothing and accessories from a private collection will go under the hammer between Sept. 19 and Oct. 1. Among the top lots is a men’s vest assembled from playing cards from Maison Martin Margiela’s Artisanal collection. One of only five of its kind, it is estimated to fetch between 8,000 euros and 10,000 euros.

A waistcoat made with playing cards from Maison Martin Margiela’s spring 2006 Artisanal collection. 
Courtesy

Among the other rare items offered for sale are down coats from fall 1999, a linen jacket from the Stockman collection of spring 1997, and a top made of bow ties, also from the Artisanal line. The items will be on show from Sept. 20 to 25, coinciding with Paris Fashion Week.
Coming on the heels of two major Paris retrospectives last year — at the Palais Galliera fashion museum and Les Arts Décoratifs — the sale coincides with a double anniversary: the birth of Maison Martin Margiela in 1989 and the departure of its reclusive

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EXCLUSIVE: John Galliano and Nick Knight Reunite for Maison Margiela Film

PARIS — John Galliano and Nick Knight are rekindling their decades-long creative partnership with a new short film for Maison Margiela showcasing its pillow-shaped Glam Slam bag.
The result is no ordinary handbag campaign: The collaboration with Knight’s Showstudio has resulted in a 360-degree film shot in negative image that will be screened on Saturday and Sunday at the Serpentine Gallery in London.
Even the standard two-dimensional version ranks as an immersive experience, consisting of footage drenched in psychedelic hues of model Duckie Thot in a series of science fiction-inspired sets. A soundtrack by DJ Jeremy Healy, another longtime Galliano collaborator, features lyrics from Roy Orbison’s “In Dreams.”
“John and I have had an artistic relationship, a shared admiration, a love for each other, which has gone on for over 30 years,” Knight told WWD in an interview, noting that he first met the designer on a photo shoot for i-D magazine in 1985 and has created campaigns and editorial images with him ever since. “When we went through the Dior years together, I was there for 10 years with him and since then, I’ve been waiting for a way to come back and work with John again. His directorship of Margiela became a

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MM6 Maison Margiela to Show During Milan Fashion Week

MILAN ON THE MIND: MM6 Maison Margiela, the contemporary line of Maison Margiela, is heading to Italy.
For the first time since its launch in 1997, the label will present its new collection in Milan with an event on Feb. 20 during Milan Fashion Week.
“MM6 will take the street again in a two-hours presentation format reflecting the inclusivity spirit of the brand: one creative concept will spread through the whole collection and will take over the venue in an immersive experience,” the brand said in a statement on Tuesday.
The planned show follows the opening of the first MM6 Maison Margiela boutique in Milan’s Porta Nuova district last February. It marks the latest move for the collection, which was shown in London since the spring 2016 season, and in New York and Paris before that.
Last September, the label’s design collective swapped its usual presentation format for a runway show, which saw models parade around a dimly lit Covent Garden warehouse, complete with broken chandeliers, cracked mirrors and graffiti across the walls.
 

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Fashion Review: Latex at Givenchy and Chaos at Margiela. Is This the New Oscar Dressing?

The red carpet may never be the same, although Giorgio Armani is standing firm.
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Rei Kawakubo Corrals Gucci, Burberry, Margiela for Holiday Collabs

NEW YORK — They don’t call her “the designer’s designer” for nothing.
Rei Kawakubo convinced a fleet of marquee designers — including Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, Burberry’s Riccardo Tisci, Maison Margiela’s John Galliano and couturier Jean Paul Gaultier — to allow her to design a special holiday item, based on a clothing item, accessory or design fragment each submitted. Kawakubo’s only suggestion: something iconic.
The nine items, considered part of Comme des Garçons’ annual holiday campaign, are to go on sale today in Kawakubo’s boutique network in Japan, and then roll out to other Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market locations on Dec. 6.
The other invitees are Walter Van Beirendonck, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Marine Serre and Stüssy, telegraphing the range of Kawakubo’s cultural antennae, and her diverse tastes.
“I think it’s more than a bunch of collaborations,” said Adrian Joffe, president of Comme des Garçons International and chief executive at Dover Street Market, adopting the language of the Grinch in characterizing the project as far more than the sum of its parts. “It’s about inclusivity: How people can come together and work together.” (The Grinch ultimately concluded that Christmas, more than just presents, means a little bit more.)
To be sure, only Kawakubo seems

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Fashion Review: Getting Out the Youth Vote at Maison Margiela and Armani

John Galliano defines millennial couture, while Giorgio Armani looks back and doesn’t entirely move forward.
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At Maison Margiela, a Sculptor and a Designer Unite

For the first time John Galliano has commissioned artwork, by Jessi Reaves, to present alongside his spring couture collection.
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EXCLUSIVE: Maison Margiela to Present First Men’s Collection Under John Galliano

MAN UP: With Paris Men’s Fashion Week set to kick off Tuesday, management at Maison Margiela has confirmed that the house on Friday will present the first men’s collection entirely created and developed under the direction of John Galliano.
The show will take place in the Salle Turenne of the Musée de l’Armée in the Hôtel des Invalides, a complex of buildings in the city’s 7th arrondissement containing museums and monuments relating to the military history of France.
Since joining the OTB-owned house in October 2014, Galliano has had no official involvement in the men’s collection, according to Riccardo Bellini, the house’s chief executive officer. It’s been a step-by-step process for the designer.
“Creating a new aesthetic language rooted in the maison’s couture spirit has always been at the core of Mr. Galliano’s creative vision for the future of the house. Rather than curating the past we have chosen to look at the future and John Galliano’s vision represents a forward-thinking view on the maison and its DNA,” he said. “This collection will offer an elevated and powerful new foundation for men’s wear, strongly positioned within the luxury arena.”
For men’s, the brand counts about 60 direct stores and around 400 multibrand and department stores worldwide.

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Maison Margiela Collaborates With Mackintosh on Trenchcoats

ALL WHITE: Maison Margiela’s iconic white lab coat is ready to hit the streets.
The Paris-based fashion house has collaborated with outerwear maker Mackintosh to create two exclusive trenchcoat designs for its spring 2018 men’s wear collection, including a white version featuring signature details such as white horn buttons and four stitches on the back.
Martin Margiela settled on the white lab coat as a staff uniform shortly after founding the maison in 1988, as part of the brand’s collective identity. It is worn by everyone from artistic director John Galliano to the house’s interns.
The second design is inspired by the Mackintosh archives, with the collar and cuffs reworked using the so-called décortiqué process that Galliano explored in his spring Artisanal collection.

A gray trenchcoat from Maison Margiela’s collaboration with Mackintosh. 
Courtesy

The waterproof coats are made from rubberized fabrics, with all seams taped and glued to create a seamless effect. The two numbered limited-edition coats will be available from December in Maison Margiela boutiques, Mackintosh flagships and selected multibrand stores.
The collaboration will also include several women’s looks, featured in Galliano’s spring collection, which will go on sale in March.
The Scotland-based Mackintosh, which is owned by Japanese group Yagi Tsusho, has been upping its fashion

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Maison Margiela to Give Rare Glimpse Behind the Scenes

NOW YOU SEE IT: Maison Margiela is ready to lift the veil a little further on its creative process.
The Paris-based house, famed for its anonymous approach to design, will launch a new Instagram Stories series with the hashtag #MaisonMargielaInsideOut during the finale of creative director John Galliano’s women’s wear show, scheduled to take place at 11 a.m. on Wednesday.
The first in the series is a one-minute clip, directed by London-based filmmaker Sean Frank, that is being shot in the Margiela design studios in the 24 hours leading up to the ready-to-wear display. It will also be posted on the brand’s web site www.maisonmargiela.com.
In addition to revealing the inspiration and background of the collection, “Inside Out” will highlight Margiela’s new handbag, debuting on the runway. Further instalments will follow, all linked to the rtw activities of the house.
The concept comes on the heels of the Maison Margiela Artisanal couture show in July, which featured a decor showcasing the offbeat items with which Galliano surrounds himself while he works, as well as hair-and-makeup stations. The idea was to provide guests with an inside look at what goes on at the Maison.
“Strategically, we want to reinforce the link in messaging between our highly

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MM6 Maison Margiela Resort 2018

MM6 Maison Margiela’s catchphrases for resort included “industrial, not artcraft” and “similar items, new contexts.” Hmmm. Let’s just say the lineup offered sleek interpretations and twists on both archival and new ideas. The design team emphasized flat silhouettes; pieces that looked terrific in both 2-D and 3-D. For instance, a red, sleeveless knit with zippers up both sides took shape as either a dress or a top while two dresses — one in black and the other in red — revealed a rectangular, tacked-on cape when worn.
Velcro was employed extensively. Socks could be added or detached from Velcro-sole sandals, while a top and dress could be wrapped and fastened in endless ways thanks to the adhesive. Also customizable, in three steps: a pant, top and shoes. The first step comes at purchase: rigid, white cotton pants, kept stiff from a vegetable glue bind. Step two: wash the pants. As this happens, the fabric becomes bleached through and separates, giving the pants a much softer texture. Step three: the canvas can be cut away to reveal great, dark wash jeans with deconstructed details.
While there was less denim than prior seasons, a great pair of jeans with handkerchief hems stood out. Bestsellers

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Maison Margiela to Skip Men’s Presentation in Paris

PRESS PAUSE: Maison Margiela will sit out the Paris men’s shows this season as it undergoes a strategic review under chief executive officer Riccardo Bellini, who joined the company in March.
The house is believed to be aligning its men’s ready-to-wear collection more closely with its women’s line and Artisanal couture collection. Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano oversees all three lines.
The house staged a presentation last season but has yet to decide if it will return in January with a runway or presentation format. What is certain is that it has no plans to stage a coed show during the women’s shows in September, according to a source with knowledge of the situation.
For the spring-summer 2018 season, Margiela will show its men’s collection to buyers at the Staff International showroom from June 26 to July 23. The men’s shows will take place in the French capital from June 21 to 25.
More news on Maison Margiela:
Maison Margiela Names Diesel Executive as New CEO
Designer Brands Lift OTB Performance in 2016
Antwerp Museum Goes Back to the Future With Margiela Show

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MM6 Maison Margiela RTW Spring 2016

An army of eclectic-looking models stomped out into an East London warehouse space to showcase the MM6 Maison Margiela collection, which highlighted clothes that looked as if they’d been culled from a futuristic thrift store.
 
One model wore a smocked camisole dress seemingly crafted from plastic bag material, while another wore an oversized sweater adorned with an airbrushed mystical horse motif, offset with a spangly sequined scarf wound over her waist and shoulders. According to the label’s show notes, the collection took its cues from “London and the creative community surrounding MM6,” and it certainly had an artsy, thrown-together feel.
 
But what the diffusion line wasn’t so heavy on was real-world clothes – aside from the odd pair of drapey pants or denim vest – for those customers not balancing on the creative cutting edge.

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MM6 Maison Margiela Joins London Fashion Week

LONDON — The British Fashion Council on Monday released its final schedule for September’s London Fashion Week, with some new additions to the spring 2016 lineup.
MM6 Maison Margiela is set to stage a presentation in London, after having previously shown in New York. The Maison Margiela diffusion line had skipped the fall 2015 season, after John Galliano was named creative director of Maison Margiela in October 2014. The latest MM6 presentation — for resort 2016 — took place in New York. The spring 2016 presentation is set to take place Sunday, Sept 20.
Zandra Rhodes is also new to the schedule, with the veteran London designer staging a presentation Friday, Sept. 18.
As reported last month, Versus Versace will stage a runway show during London Fashion Week for the first time Saturday, Sept. 19, while other new names to the schedule include Alexander Lewis, Hill & Friends and Peter Jensen.

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Margiela Documentary to Be Shown at Tribeca Festival

Yoox Group has produced a documentary on the designer Martin Margiela which is being shown in the Narrative/Documentary category at the Tribeca Film Festival.

Called “The Artist is Absent,” the documentary, which was filmed by American writer and director Alison Chernick, explores the creative path of the Belgian designer, one of the most mysterious personalities in the fashion industry. The documentary includes interviews with fashion figures such as Raf Simons and Jean-Paul Gaultier.

“Thanks to Yoox Group, millions of people in the world will have the chance to know the creativity and genius of Martin Margiela, one of the most innovative personalities of the last century,” Chernick said. “I’m proud to have collaborated with Yoox Group, which produced the documentary and made this nomination possible.”

The documentary’s trailer was launched on the Yoox Group’s Web sites, – yoox.com, thecorner.com and shoescribe.com, – on Monday, while the full version will be available online from April 27, after the Tribeca Film Festival’s awards ceremony.

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Maison Margiela RTW Fall 2015

The model clutched her paper-bag purse like it was the most precious thing on Earth and marched headlong down the runway, as if tightening into a strong wind.
 
John Galliano had brought a gust of his hobo poetry — and also a visual metaphor for a recent chapter in his biography — as he stepped back onto the Paris fashion stage as creative director of Maison Margiela. His first women’s ready-to-wear collection for the house that Martin built was a winner: spunky, approachable and full of personality.
 
If the artisanal couture collection he showed in January left the audience wanting, here there were plenty of fine, real-world clothes: narrow maxi coats with that twinge of vintage Margiela always peddled; tattered tartan miniskirts that winked to Galliano’s London club days; and the kind of delicate, hourglass gown in black lace that Mr. Bias has always done so effortlessly.
 
Another daring brand reinvention is getting under way, and Galliano — rebounding from anti-Semitic outbursts that led to his ouster from Dior in 2011 and a spectacular fall from grace — demonstrated range and finesse, not letting Margiela’s conceptual roots overpower his own romantic inclinations. For every patent peacoat with roughly hacked off sleeves there was

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