Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Graphic Art

Bold prints and patterns were all over the men’s runways for spring, with many designers collaborating with artists on the looks. Turning the process on its head, and creating a new paradigm, was artist Sterling Ruby, who has added “designer” to his résumé with his brand S.R. Studio. LA. CA., coming up with one of the standout collections of the season.

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Retailers Embrace Feminine Side of Men’s Shows in Paris

PARIS — Retailers embraced the wave of femininity that swept through the men’s shows in Paris. Fluid suits, silky shirts, a profusion of pastels — think pink! — floral prints and individual expression were the names of the game this season.
“The most important new direction we are looking for in Paris is the genderless look,” said Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner, pushed the idea a bit further:
“The classic, traditional men’s look for us is completely gone. Easy, fresh and bold are the keywords,” he said.
Dior topped the favorite collections, with Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten as runners-up. The next tier was crowded: Jil Sander, Loewe, Celine, Valentino and Off-White, reflecting diversity in opinions.
In the hot-new-talent department, Casablanca and Nanushka caught notice. And the best venue went to Louis Vuitton — the Paris streets never fail to charm. Lanvin’s poolside runway and Dior’s futuristic set were also popular.
While snarled traffic and hot sticky weather did not go unnoticed, the fashion, it seems, will be remembered the most.
Here, a roundup of the Paris spring collections in the eyes of the retailers.

Casablanca Men’s Spring Summer 2020 
Courtesy Photo

Fiona Firth, buying director, Mr Porter 
Top trends:

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Pigalle Paris Men’s Spring 2020

It didn’t start very well: Guests arriving at the Pigalle Paris spring show were informed that there was only one elevator — able to transport seven people at the time — to go up to the seventh floor of the parking lot where the presentation was held. Mayhem ensued, with bouncers striving to enforce health and safety measures, and the presentation finally started 45 minutes behind schedule — not ideal on the last day of fashion week.
But what a view: a panoramic view of Paris taking in the colorful tubes of the Centre Pompidou, the Grand Palais and the Eiffel Tower, with the Sacré Coeur looming behind the show space. As has become its trademark, Pigalle Paris set out to celebrate the city of its birth, parading the clothes in front of a triptych of panels depicting a futuristic version of the City of Light, its grey slate roofs turned lilac. Guests could play “spot the difference” by comparing the artwork to the actual view behind it.
Models in the first part of the presentation, wearing mirrored helmets, were decked out in pristine silk tracksuits and flowing Champagne-colored suits. It was street couture at its very best: A slouchy oversized leather

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Han Kjobenhavn Men’s Spring 2020

For his second showing in Paris, Jannik Wikkelso Davidsen took inspiration from the Danish working class wardrobe. Taking elements of “mom’s wardrobe, dad’s wardrobe, the teenager’s wardrobe…” he mixed them up, usurping stereotypes and putting his distinctive, almost abrasive stamp on what is seen as “the norm.”
Davidsen’s casting – with models of all different shapes, sizes and physiques – enhanced that effect. “I’m trying to represent society as it is today,” he said backstage after the show. Along the runway, original workers’ union flags billowed thanks to fans operated by a guy on a rowing machine, moving tirelessly back and forth in time to the soundtrack.
Eighties-style office wear took on new meaning through shirts and tops made from tie fabric and paired with pants in black alligator-effect leather or draped crushed velvet – many worn with ties. The tailored silhouettes, with exaggerated square shoulders, were almost like something out of a dark comic strip.
A giant necktie became a dress, wrapped around the body but leaving little to the imagination on one of the women’s looks in the coed lineup. One guy walked the runway in a catsuit made from draped leather, another example of the designer’s play on androgyny.
Mixed in

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Comme des Garçons Shirt Men’s Spring 2020

Rei Kawakubo continued elevating classic shirts into veritable pieces of art for spring 2020, working with the estate of American artist Karl Benjamin and the Louis Stern Fine Arts gallery in Los Angeles on the Comme des Garçons Shirt collection.
Patchwork and printing techniques were used to recreate some of Benjamin’s paintings, which feature colorful, geometric elements.
Here, an Oxford shirt with dusky pink sleeves and collar featured vertical, asymmetric printed panels in the likes of yellow, light blue, green and cobalt. Another model, with a blue-and-white striped front, came with multi-hued printed shapes on the sleeves. Various versions of the intricate, eye-catching combinations were displayed, with up to 16 different screens needed for printing on just one shirt.
Likewise, patchworking could become highly involved, with as many as 23 different parts needed to be sewn together for one look. A shirt, worn with knee-length navy shorts, was comprised of materials with stripes of various widths and shades of blue, plus white fabric patches.
Color-blocking appeared on rainwear, in orange, mustard yellow, pink, red and light blue, for instance. While striped raincoats were worn over button-down shirts emblazoned with kaleidoscope swirls of geometric shapes and hues.
Kawakubo’s artistry gave yet another new, multi-dimensional spin on

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Sander Lak Wants a Piece of Men’s Wear Pie for Sies Marjan

NEW YORK — Reserved, quiet, unassuming. These are words that would never be used to describe Sander Lak.
Instead, the creative director of Sies Marjan is upbeat, engaging, smart, sophisticated — and talented.
Lak, a former designer for Dries Van Noten, is the engine that has propelled the three-year-old brand squarely into the fashion spotlight. His romantic and colorful women’s wear is carried at some of the most discerning retailers around the world, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense, Matches, Browns, Harvey Nichols, The Webster and so on.
One year after launching his women’s collection in 2016, the Dutch designer dipped his toe into the men’s arena, offering up a capsule with a similar sensibility that immediately took hold. And this week, Lak is going all in, showing his first full men’s collection on the runway during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Although Lak, who also worked with Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York, was trained as a men’s wear designer at Central Saint Martins, this is the first time he’s truly spreading his wings in the men’s arena.
Interestingly, Lak’s foray into men’s came as a result of creating pieces for himself that were not offered for sale. “It’s hard for me

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Grailed Opens Paris Pop-Up for Men’s Fashion Week

TOUCHDOWN: Grailed has landed in Paris. The online men’s fashion and streetwear marketplace has opened a pop-up on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau through Saturday, designed to be a “shoppable showroom” of more than 300 new and archival men’s wear pieces.
The showcase is the platform’s second pop-up after one in Los Angeles’ Fairfax district that ran for a few days in April.
According to a spokesman for Grailed, the marketplace has a strong following in Europe. Paris, as one of the world’s most influential cities for men’s style, was a logical choice, he said.
At the Paris space, customizable Grailed lab coats are available on a first come, first served and “best dressed” basis, according to the platform, with 40 up for grabs each day.
On Saturday, an Instagram competition will see 1,000 euros gifted to one attendee who posts and tags the showcase with the hashtag #GrailedPFW.
More on Grailed on WWD.com:
Grailed Celebrates Father’s Day With Adam Pally Closet Sale
Grailed Founder on Future of the Men’s Fashion ‘Movement’
Grailed Extends Beyond Secondhand Shopping

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Off-White Men’s Spring 2020

Plastic: once hailed as a miracle material, now condemned as a major pollutant – and possibly about to be considered a work of art, according to Virgil Abloh.
The designer’s customary clear plastic invitation for his Off-White show this season came printed with the word “plastic” – in quote marks, naturally – in one of the meta statements he has made a signature of the brand. “It’s using it as a metaphor,” Abloh explained backstage at the show, using one of his favorite terms.
“Within our generation, a banal term all of a sudden turns into a whole different context, basically in a matter of moments. Plastic is this material that was man-made to be very useful in different circumstances, and this invite, which I do every season, it’s now transformed into an art work,” he explained.
Underscoring the fleeting nature of value, street artists who were once seen as vandals now command stratospheric prices, Abloh said. He noted that a painting by KAWS sold for $ 14.7 million, largely above its $ 1 million estimate, at a sale of streetwear designer Nigo’s art collection held at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong in April.
Abloh wrote the foreword for the auction catalog, and tapped Futura, a contemporary

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Cowboys, Y-Fronts and the New Drag: Brands to Check Out During Paris Men’s Week

PARIS — Paris men’s fashion week is having a moment: Hailing from Los Angeles, Sweden, China or Monaco, Rhude, Eytys, Li Ning and Alter are among the rising international brands that have been added to the official men’s calendar and presentation lineup this season.
GAMUT
Things are going pretty fast for Gamut, the fashion collective created in 2017 by former students of La Cambre fashion school in Brussels — which is surprising, because the seven French nationals are intent on taking their time.
“We’re continuing to experiment with the fashion calendar: We chose to skip fall 2019 to focus on our showroom, and realized that taking nine months to create a collection was a rhythm we quite liked,” said one of the members — all of whom prefer to remain anonymous — speaking at the collective’s studio at the Porte de la Chapelle, a somewhat sketchy area in the remote 18th arrondissement.
Since its first debut show last September, Gamut has added a photographer/visual director to its team, and landed a spot on the French couture federation’s official calendar for presentations. Now it’s behaving like full-fledged business with dedicated members in charge of sourcing, production, administration and communication. Decisions are still fully collegial, though.
“Each

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Theory Men’s Spring 2020

Creative director Martin Andersson introduced new tailoring-focused silhouettes and shapes for the Theory men’s spring 2020 collection, with the intention of reminding consumers what the brand stands for and redefine what a suit should look like and how it should feel.
The designer looked to “the entrepreneurial spirit of New York City,” Theory’s home and its pulse, and “Tropical Modernism,” a concept created by Geoffrey Bawa in Asia in the Fifties that promotes “clean modern lines without any adornments,” for the overall feeling and theme of the collection, as well as “Mega Death” by Tatsuo Miyajima for the blue color palette, patterns and layering.
“I think for a long time, certainly my own aesthetic and I think in general, men’s wear has been very buttoned up and uptight and now I’m feeling a return to effortlessness,” Andersson said at the Theory showroom.
The “effortlessness” is evident in softer, unstructured suits that conform to the body. Despite the flowing nature of the fabrication, Andersson used words like “precision” and “technical” to describe the tailoring. A new double-breasted jacket in navy Italian cotton stretch fabrication is paired with a navy linen shirt for monochromatic uniformity and contrast, and fabrications such as paper nylon and Japanese

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Caruso Men’s Spring 2019

After sitting out Men’s Fashion Week for three seasons, Caruso opened the doors to its new showroom in Milan, designed like an apartment and peppered by furniture echoing the Fifties. It is to be followed by one in New York next month.
The Italian men’s brand, controlled by Fosun, is restarting under the lead of chief executive officer Marco Angeloni and through the designs of Aldo Maria Camillo. A graduate from the New York Fashion Institute of Technology, Camillo kicked off his career in 2003 as an assistant fashion designer at Valentino. Three years later, he was tapped by Emenegildo Zegna as senior men’s designer in the brand’s sartorial department, which he left in 2009 to return to Valentino as design director of the men’s line. In 2012, Camillo was named creative director at Cerruti, which he helped reposition in the luxury segment, while in September 2016 he joined Berluti as creative consultant collaborating with Haider Ackermann.
Camillo’s experience at such luxury brands served him well, as the Caruso collection he showed for spring was beautifully conceived and carried out. “We want to dress a real, dynamic man in his daily life,” said the designer. Ease and comfort are priorities for that

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Woolrich Men’s Spring 2020

Performance was the key word at Woolrich, where creative director Andrea Canè focused on the use of wind and water-resistant materials guaranteeing protection in extreme conditions.
Mountain jackets and field styles, injected with the brand’s signature urban take on sportswear, were crafted from a range of high-end materials, spanning from Gore-Tex to Italian fabrics paired with special membranes.
Neutrals, such as beige, khaki and navy, were juxtaposed with pops of yellow, red and electric blue, while patterns included Woolrich’s signature buffalo checks and a revisited camouflage motif.
The brand’s offering of shirts was enlarged to include a broad selection of options, such as denim and plaids, all paired with cargo shorts or trousers cut in comfortable silhouettes.

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Wilhelmina Bolsters Men’s Division

Wilhelmina is beefing up its men’s division.
The modeling agency on Friday hired Matthew Trust and Gene Kogan from competing agency DNA Models to co-direct its men’s board. They will replace Taylor Hendrick, who had headed the men’s division, but is leaving the company, according to Bill Wackermann, Wilhelmina’s chief executive officer.
Wackermann, a former Condé Nast executive who joined Wilhelmina Modeling Inc. in 2016, has been restructuring the company to expand its focus beyond the runway. That includes the development of Wilhelmina Studio, a creative agency that creates digital content and influencer programs for brands including L’Orèal, Ugg and Disney.
“In my almost four years here, my goal has been to increase the quality of our people,” Wackermann said. “It’s a really competitive industry and we want to have the best and brightest people who are committed to model development and social media.”
He expects the addition of Trust and Kogan to help grow the company’s historically “strong” men’s division. The agency counts models such as Francisco Lachowski, Marlon Teixeira and RJ King on its roster. Wackermann said Trust and Kogan are skilled at not just scouting new talent but working with other agents to identify potential models. He said that while international guys

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Lucio Vanotti Men’s Spring 2020

His garments suspended in an installation inspired by the soul-nurturing ritual of gardening, Lucio Vanotti created a mood of softness and protection, with exaggerated shawl collars on long coats, jackets and trenches to wrap the body in.
Focusing on natural fibers, the designer tinkered with classic men’s wear fabrics, including the glen check and the pinstripe, which was reinterpreted on shirts and jumpsuits in bold vertical stripes.
Certain silhouettes had an ethnic allure that was reinforced by the palette, like a pale green tunic shirt — cut short at the front, long at the back — with a Mao collar and matching pant.
Exaggerated apron-inspired silhouettes in robust cottons also informed the bags, while Vanotti in this serene, elegant collection also expertly mixed soft tailoring with workwear structures.

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Pitti Uomo and Milan Men’s Fashion Week: United They Stand

MILAN — Slim? Yes. Inconsequential? No.
There’s no arguing that the Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week calendar has shrunk in days and number of shows from years past and this season, which runs from June 15 to 17, it lost a cornerstone in Prada, which exceptionally decamped to Shanghai to show on June 6. Itinerant shows and coed collections in general have chipped away at Milan’s men’s calendar — but observers are still trumpeting its central role, especially pivoting around Pitti Uomo.
“Between Florence and Milan, it’s the most beautiful fashion week in the world,” enthused Brunello Cucinelli. “Pitti Uomo is an open-air fashion show, with 30,000 people walking around in a continuous exchange of ideas and it’s complementary to the big-name fashion shows in Milan, whose nature it is to hold such shows.”
Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Camera della Moda, has long been saying that Milan Men’s Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo together form one single Italian fashion week. “They have two different vocations but there’s no other country that has this kind of global offer and impact that Italy has,” Capasa contended, touting the 800 showrooms and 3,000 brands present in Milan.
“This is a story that comes around regularly, but Pitti

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Givenchy Men’s Spring 2020

“For me it’s the perfect serendipitous moment. I’d been looking to do a show and I wanted to do something very special, and then the invitation came,” said Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller, who for her debut stand-alone men’s runway display on Wednesday evening in Florence, as the special guest of the Pitti Uomo trade show, chose the luxuriant gardens of the Villa Palmieri as the stage for a collection fusing Old and New World aesthetics. The storyline was fed through a minimalist, Nineties filter, with a focus on clean, monochromatic total looks. It was easy to see the commercial potential in the line, which felt very urban and of the moment, with the airy, summery mood extending to the 30 tailoring silhouettes.
The designer sent out endless variations on the suit with a wide diversity of fits, including the return to the three-button silhouette with a slightly softer shoulder and a subtly pearlized luster in the fabric; boxy silhouettes echoed on shirts with drop sleeves, and a spin on the three-piece suit, pairing a coat with a matching jacket worn over bare skin. Waight Keller also included a couple of girls in the lineup, cementing the collection’s de facto genderless feel,

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Olivier Saillard Stages Ode to Contemporary Men’s Fashion

FLORENCE, Italy — “For museums, it’s easier to present an evening dress from the Fifties by a house like Balenciaga or Dior, but it’s not so easy to provoke a dream with a gray costume,” said Olivier Saillard.
For his latest exhibition — titled “A Short Novel On Men’s Fashion, Thirty Years at Pitti Immagine Uomo” and produced in collaboration with the Fondazione Pitti Imagine Discovery to mark the 30th anniversary of Pitti Immagine Uomo — he set himself the challenge of curating a show based on how men actually dress. “I looked at the [museum’s] collection, evening dresses by Dior, Balenciaga, Vionnet, and finally I realized, we don’t have any jeans, T-shirts — ordinary clothes which are also poetic,” he said a preview of the exhibition on Tuesday.

A view of Olivier Saillard’s new exhibition in Florence. 
Astra Marina Cucebi

Lived-in looking ensembles are presented on wire clothes valets throughout a series of rooms at the Museum of Fashion and Costume at the Palazzo Pitti, arranged in groups united by forms, colors and shapes with fun details like scarves and shoelaces suspended in movement, as if lifted by a sudden gust of wind. The ensembles — spanning smart-casual, evening wear, historical costume, streetwear

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Bethany Williams Men’s Spring 2020

Despite the cold wind and torrential rain, Bethany Williams outdoor show in the Garden Museum was beautifully serene. “It was so stressful, we had to change the whole set and format because of the weather,” she said backstage.
One would never have known and instead, the weather added drama to the clothes. Colors stood out against the dreary backdrop. Williams worked once again with artist Giorgia Chiarion to pay homage to Spires’ Butterfly Café – a safe space where vulnerable women meet to develop skills in arts and crafts.
“It’s called the Butterfly Café because it represents the development, transformation and growth that these women experience,” the designer said.
This was depicted with bright orange, yellow and pink swirled patterns that popped against a forest green track suit and a navy blue boxy suit.
Williams also worked with recycled tent material this season that took shape in a long parka, a zippered vest top and straight-legged trousers.
The designer introduced more fitted silhouettes and tailored pieces. A highlight was a woven multicolored coat with oversized lapels. Her collection was strong in its design and craftsmanship as her pieces weathered the storm.

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Asos Parties at The Public to Close NYFW: Men’s

The Public Hotel was the place to be Wednesday evening because of Asos. The retailer closed NYFW: Men’s with a party at the trendy hotel’s Public Arts space.
Attendees were treated to a performance by Swae Lee, one half of rap duo Rae Sremmurd, who closed his set with a performance of his Billboard Hot 100 chart-topping song “Sunflower” from the “Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse” soundtrack. Around his performance, Mazurbate and DJ Ty Sunderland provided tunes to keep the party going.
Asos is never one to turn down a party. The retailer in April held an event at No Name in Los Angeles with Life Is Beautiful festival. The event marked the launch of Asos’ collection for the festival and their multiyear partnership as exclusive retail partner.

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Xander Zhou Men’s Spring 2020

Xander Zhou has spent a lot of time reflecting on life’s meaning. “I focused on what essentially makes us human, our consciousness, our ability to have emotions. Then I thought about how this will look in the future with AI and technology,” he said.
The audience at his spring show was invited to ponder such questions, too. Sweet incense wafted through the vaults at Tobacco Docks, and guests were asked to slip on wrap skirts and sit on poufs as meditative music played. Then a wall lit up to show human and computer-generated models walking across the screen.
“The digital runway shows how technology and spirituality can come together. Mixing in CGI models underscores this transcendence. Many pieces have been inspired by ceremonial dress, as attending a fashion show in some ways is quite similar to attending a ceremony,” Zhou said.
All 73 looks were all based on skirts, from midi to maxi to pencil to A-line to voluminous and floor-length. While some models slid across the screen shirtless and wearing prayer beads and skirts, others wore T-shirts with SS2020 emblazoned across the chest.
Zhou also focused on tops. He presented washed denim shirts alongside traditional Chinese side-button shirts with Mandarin collars. There were

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Rip Up the Calendar: Men’s Show Weeks Are Not Working for Everyone

LONDON — Has the men’s wear industry outgrown its boots?
This is a golden moment for men’s wear, with flourishing sales, a fashion-loving generation of shoppers, and Instagram propelling sneaker-crazy young men into stores like never before. Despite it all, the seasonal men’s fashion calendars — with the exception of Paris — are shrinking.
The New York, London and Milan schedules have been shedding designers and brands for many reasons: Fashion houses have chosen the coed route, opted to show or present in different cities, take part in trade shows such as Pitti Uomo, or stage direct-to-consumer events, or digital shows.
Others have decided to take a step back and invest their marketing money elsewhere, refusing to be shackled to the runway — or the presentation space — season after season.
Christopher Raeburn, a longtime fixture on the London men’s calendar, has decided to pull out of the city’s spring/summer 2020 lineup, which runs from Saturday to June 10. He said he wants to explore new ways of engaging with his consumers and community.
“It is our job to disrupt, to capture and create a new mood,” said Raeburn, who last year was named global creative director of Timberland, and who continues to operate his

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Art School Men’s Spring 2020

Art School continued to make a case for gender blending and their spring collection was reminiscent of what girls might have worn to an Eighties prom: silver sequined dresses that fell off the shoulder, cropped bustiers or a leopard print tube dress.
While some pieces looked like mirror balls come to life, the rest of the collection was a sea of black.
However, designers Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt created interest by using different textures. Cue a shimmery four-pocket shirt jacket and a feathered vest.
A highlight included a one-shouldered sequined and feathered cocktail dress with an asymmetric hem.

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British Label Stefan Cooke Finds Its Voice, and Flies Solo, at London Fashion Week Men’s

LONDON — Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, cofounders of the label Stefan Cooke and finalists for the LVMH Prize, are about to stage their first solo runway show on June 9 during London Men’s Fashion Week, and they’re feeling the heat. “It feels surreal to be doing it by ourselves. It also feels intimidating,” said Cooke, who has witnessed a shower of accolades over the past two years.
The brand has won the H&M Design Award and the L’Oréal Professional Creative Award, but Cooke and Burt will now have to wait until September to see if they’ve scooped the LVMH Prize.
Having shown under the Fashion East umbrella, the duo have moved on from conceptual to more commercially focused designs. The label is stocked at Machine-A, Dover Street Market and Matchesfashion.com.
Their lines for spring/summer 2020 have a more relaxed silhouette than in past seasons, where trousers and shirts were tight and cropped. They will also be introducing a new bag concept, a category that’s been performing well for the company.
As they build the brand, they’ve been asking themselves some difficult questions, such as: “How do you take all of the things that are Stefan Cooke, like textile manipulations, and turn them into

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New York Men’s Day Offers Peek at All-Stars, Emerging Labels

New York Men’s Day’s afternoon session on Monday showcased both emerging designers and those who have created more-established businesses, ones touted as All-Stars. Those included Krammer & Stoudt, Descendant of Thieves and Wood House Army. Private Policy, which will hold a runway show on Wednesday, was also part of the mix.
Three  pieces from Krammer & Stoudt were psychedelic-colored updates of the brand’s Americana-skewed workwear, with jackets and pants created from 12-oz. denim and decorated with Day-Glo colors in designs including hot rod flames.
Julian Woodhouse of Wood House Army offered up WHA, three graphic black-and-white vertically striped looks from his diffusion line that included an anorak, shorts and a one-piece with military details.
For Descendant of Thieves, the brand offered up an assortment of multipurpose pieces for the travel guy, including reversible shorts, lightweight jackets and swimwear that could double as regular shorts.
Private Policy used the All-Star showcase to launch Pxl, a see-now-buy-now capsule collection of black, blue and green prints on shirts, trousers, caps, a bikini top and racing shorts.
Among the other brands showing at New York Men’s Day were International Woolmark Prize 2018/19 nominees Ka Wa Key, who presented a romantic collection of hand-done tie-dye patterns and distressing on airy knits and

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Men’s Designer Inspirations

The shows must go on — literally.
Although the schedule is sparse, with many big-name designers taking a pass, a few brands are still participating in New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which kicks off today for its three-day run.
New York, which jumped up from July this time, is now starting the men’s spring season, pre-dating London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Here, New York designers gave WWD an exclusive sneak peek at their vision, which ranged from the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall Inn demonstration and the art of deconstruction to Eighties queer culture.
 
“This collection was inspired by a clash between the mundane qualities of rural domesticity and the rebellious fluorescence of the ’80s queer underground.” — Neil Grotzinger, NIHL
“Deconstruct the traditions.” — Daisuke Obana, N. Hoolywood
“Inspired by the Stonewall Inn riot 50 years ago, the Private Policy spring 2020 collection is a call for community, so we can overcome societal challenges and prevail with courage together.” — Siying Qu and Haoran Li, Private Policy
“With a keen interest in exploring the hardness of the urban environment against the softness of an untouched culture, Abysm’s debut collection is inspired by the duality cultural and life experiences from my youth, fused with my desire to

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Men’s Suit Trend 2020: New Wave

The resurgence began during the men’s shows in January and is likely to continue as the spring 2020 collections kick off, beginning with Saint Laurent in L.A. and Prada in Shanghai next week, and then moving on to London, Milan and Paris.

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Harry Styles Proves It’s a New Era for Men’s Fashion at Gucci’s Cruise 2020 Show

Harry Styles, 2019 Met Gala, Red Carpet Fashions“I’m feeling Gucci.” Harry Styles, probably.
No one throws a party quite like the fashion powerhouse and its Cruise 2020 Collection runway show was no different. On Tuesday,…

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British Fashion Council Highlights London’s Diversity Ahead of London Fashion Week Men’s

LONDON — The British Fashion Council wanted to celebrate diversity and culture with its latest campaign, “This Is London,” during London Fashion Week Men’s, which runs June 8 to 10.
The campaign, a series of 12 images, features a group of industry figures hailing from different backgrounds, from poet James Massiah to up-and-coming designers Bethany Williams, Paria Farzaneh and Bianca Saunders, retailer Stavros Karelis, filmmaker Akinola Davis and musician Louis III. It was shot by London-based photographer Markn, who has previously worked with Nick Knight.
“We wanted to celebrate not only the designers, but also the broader creative community who all play a vital role in our industry’s culture and reputation,” said Caroline Rush, chief executive officer of BFC, who also makes an appearance on the campaign, alongside Dylan Jones, editor in chief of British GQ and chair of men’s wear at the BFC.
“The ‘This Is London’ campaign shines a light on the incredible pool of talent that makes London the creative capital of the world. From rising stars to established names, the campaign features a diverse mix of individuals, celebrating the eccentricity of our capital while illustrating that LFWM is a global platform for innovation and culture,” added Jones.
The campaign aims

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Dior Men’s Kim Jones Edits Issue of ‘A Magazine Curated By’

GUEST CURATOR: Kim Jones, creative director of Dior Men, has edited the new issue of fashion publication “A Magazine Curated By.”
Launching in London on May 29, the magazine’s 19th issue, named “A Magazine Curated By Kim Jones,” was entirely overseen by Jones, from the two covers, shot by photographer David Vasiljevic under the creative direction of Dior makeup image director Peter Philips, to the 26 artist “letter” pages that make up the hefty 248-page tome.
The designer’s approach for the issue takes the form of an alphabet retracing his inspirations and eclectic circle of friends: Subjects range from “A” for Naomi Campbell’s Africa, “P” for punk with a photo shoot by Jackie Nickerson, and ending with “Z” for Amanda Lear, whose song “Alphabet” was one of the inspirations for the magazine.

Kim Jones and Naomi Campbell by Hugo Scott in “A Magazine Curated By Kim Jones” 
Courtesy

Other contributors include Japanese illustrator Hajime Sorayama, who imagined a portrait of model Bella Hadid in his signature futuristic style, photographers Brett Lloyd, Pierre-Ange Carlotti and Nick Knight, as well as U.S. artist KAWS, who submitted an artwork featuring Kate Moss cuddling his signature plush toys, surrounded by the KAWS bee illustration designed by the artist for

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EXCLUSIVE: Mytheresa to Launch Men’s Wear for a Post-Streetwear World

LONDON — This is a man’s world, to borrow from James Brown, with big retailers such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges casting fresh eyes over their men’s fashion floors and expanding their spaces to cater to a brand-conscious generation.
Online players such as Mr Porter, Matchesfashion.com, Farfetch and the British site Endclothing are making more space for sneakers, men’s capsules, exclusive products and limited editions, while the Paris men’s show schedule is back-to-back, with new international names and hot contemporary labels that show men’s and women’s wear alike.
Mytheresa, which until now has sold women’s wear only, is vaulting into the arena with a gutsy proposition to deliver a new elegance to the category, complete with a lineup of luxe brands, tailored clothing and price points suited to shoppers with deep pockets.
Where other retailers may be stretching their offer or floor space to include more streetwear, T-shirts, sneakers, grooming products and entry price points, Mytheresa is taking a different direction in the belief there is untapped demand for a new take on the classics and a more formal attitude.

Michael Kliger, president of Mytheresa. 
Courtesy

While Mytheresa’s offer will include sneakers and lots of casualwear, anyone looking for pure streetwear will be let down.
“It’s

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s Hanging on by a Thread

New York Fashion Week: Men’s is on life support.
Less than three weeks until the start of the men’s spring runway season, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has finally released its calendar — and it’s not pretty.
There are fewer than 20 men’s designers showing and half are with Agentry PR’s New York Men’s Day. Absent from the calendar are some designers who have been active supporters of the men’s shows since they were launched four years ago, including Todd Snyder, Robert Geller, Ovadia New York, Carlos Campos and Bode.
Instead, the calendar kicks off on June 3 with Agentry’s presentations of small and emerging designers only. The following day, N.Hoolywood will show at 6 p.m., followed by Frere at 7 p.m. The final day on June 5 will see presentations from Hecho, Freemans Sporting Club, Untitled Collective, Dyne and Linder, as well as shows from Private Policy, NIHL and Grungy Gentleman.
The reasons for the lack of participation are several. First, this marks the first time the men’s shows have moved from July to June to coincide with women’s resort. That timing is early for a lot of brands since the men’s market in New York is generally in mid- to

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Giorgio Armani to Hold Signature Men’s Show in June at Storied Via Borgonuovo HQ

HOME SWEET HOME: For the first time in 18 years, Giorgio Armani will show his namesake men’s collection for spring 2020 at his storied headquarters at 11 Via Borgonuovo.
The show is scheduled on June 17 at 5 p.m., closing Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which kicks off on June 14.
Armani took control in 1996 of the stately 17th-century building, Palazzo Orsini, named after the 12th-century family, but in 2001 the designer unveiled offices and his Teatro, designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando on Milan’s Via Bergognone — in a former Nestlé industrial area, and effectively helping to revamp that part of the city.
The Emporio Armani show will be held at the Teatro on June 15 at 11 a.m.
The designer has most recently been experimenting with different formats and venues. Last September, he staged a coed Emporio Armani show at Milan’s Linate Airport — at the Hangar where the imposing Emporio Armani billboard has been placed since 1996. That was the first time a fashion show was held at that site and it was followed by a Robbie Williams concert.
In February, for the first time, Armani held a coed show for his signature line at Silos, the exhibition space he opened in 2015, opposite the

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Sies Marjan Expected to Show Men’s in Paris

Count Sies Marjan as the latest brand to make the jump from New York to Paris.
Sources said the buzzy New York-based brand will hold its first men’s-only show in June during Paris Fashion Week. The company declined to comment but an announcement is expected next week.

The label, designed by Sander Lak, a former head of design for Dries Van Noten, has historically shown men’s looks during his women’s show in New York, but a more-intense focus on its men’s collection has prompted the company to opt for the Paris runway where many of the higher-profile brands show.

Sies Marjan launched as a luxury women’s label in 2016 in New York. Lak, a Dutch native, debuted his first full men’s line for fall 2018.
Before spending five years at Dries Van Noten, Lak, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, worked at Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York. His Sies Marjan brand is known for its use of color, proportion and innovative materials.

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Agentry to Open New York Fashion Week: Men’s Again

Agentry PR is pivoting.
The organizer of New York Men’s Day, a showcase for emerging designers, will once again open the men’s spring calendar, working in tandem with the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
The CFDA shifted the men’s dates to June 3 to 5 this season to coincide with the women’s resort calendar. This means the New York-based men’s shows will take place ahead of the men’s shows in London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Agentry had considered sticking with the former July dates to give the designers more time to prepare their collections and align with the New York men’s trade shows, but opted to stick with CFDA instead.
But there are other changes: New York Men’s Day will now be held at Daylight Studios & Location 05, next to the newly opened Hudson Yards complex on the West Side of Manhattan. For the past few seasons, the shows had been held at Dune Studios in the financial district.
New York Men’s Day will feature presentations from nine designers, down from 12 in prior iterations. Five will be held over a two-hour period in the morning and four in the afternoon.
But the event will also feature an All Stars Showcase where previous Men’s

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Dior to Open Men’s Pop-ups Featuring Soroyama Robot

Dior Men is getting a lot of mileage out of its Hajime Sorayama sculpture.
Last November, the brand’s artistic director Kim Jones commissioned a 39-foot-tall sculpture of a robot woman by Japanese contemporary artist Sorayama to be the centerpiece for his pre-fall 2019 men’s show in Tokyo. The artist also designed a Dior logo for the season and his futuristic imagery became part of the prints used in the collection.
Now, smaller versions of the sculpture are making their way to retailers in North America, where they will be featured in a series of pop-ups this spring.
The first debuted at The Park at CityCenterDC in Washington, D.C., on Tuesday. The 16.4-foot version will remain on site through May 7.
On May 1, Holt Renfrew’s Yorkdale store in Toronto will install a 9.2-foot version that will remain there through May 31. On the other coast, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., will take delivery of the robot that had been at CityCenter and install it in its Jewel Court on May 14. It will remain there through May 28.
Designed like pods, the interconnected spaces are modular and can be adapted to a number of different retail locations. Inside the metal pods are mirrors

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Penney’s Changes Chief Men’s Merchant

The changes are continuing at J.C. Penney.
James Starke, the company’s longtime head of men’s wear, has exited the retailer and has been replaced by Jeff Useforge.
Useforge, whose title is senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and children’s, will oversee the company’s private and national brands. He was formerly vice president and divisional merchandise manager of men’s, big and tall, activewear and team apparel for Penney’s. Before that, he was a senior buyer of big and tall and The Foundry, a big and tall concept that it had once hoped to roll out as a chain.
Useforge has more than 30 years of retail experience and began his career with Mercantile Department Stores. He also spent five years with Saks Inc. in the Proffitt’s and McRae’s division, where he was gmm of men’s and children’s. He has also worked for Bon-Ton and Kohl’s.
Starke had spent 13 years at Penney’s, mainly in the men’s department. His most recent role was senior vice president and senior gmm of men’s, children’s, jewelry and home, according to his LinkedIn profile. He joined Penney’s in 2005 after spending eight years at Foley’s in Houston, also primarily in the men’s area.
He could not be reached

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Koral Delves Into Men’s With Equinox 

LOS ANGELES — Koral, the activewear brand backed by Seven For All Mankind cofounder Peter Koral, will enter the men’s space exclusively with Equinox before a broader rollout at retail.
The men’s line launches with more than 20 stockkeeping units, priced from $ 75 to $ 300 and utilizing many of the same performance fabrics seen in the women’s line, such as lightweight scuba. The men’s collection takes on a streetwear-inspired aesthetic and a color scheme of navy and taupe.
The official launch is April 30 in 19 Equinox stores for a six-month exclusive, in addition to Koral’s online shop. The collection will broaden for fall with a larger stockkeeping unit count distributed to more retailers.
“I would love if men’s could be just as big as the women’s business one day,” chief marketing officer and cofounder Marcelo Kugel said. “I think we can get a stronghold in the market and that’s why Equinox wanted to be our main partner on this because they see the opportunity for growth and then we’ve also been approached by Peloton, Barry’s Boot Camp and Net-a-porter with the launch of fall.”
Koral helped fund the business in the beginning, fueling about $ 8.5 million worth of working capital. The business has now been

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Men’s Brands Jump Into Sustainability Efforts

Like many things in men’s wear, it often takes a bit longer for a trend to take hold than it does in women’s wear. Sustainability has been no exception. But now, most men’s brands and retailers are all in.
While some men’s designers, such as Christopher Raeburn, were early adopters, others are just now jumping on board. According to Cara Smyth, vice president of Glasgow Caledonian New York College and founder of the Fair Fashion Center sustainability program, those in the outdoor industry were among the first to embrace the movement due to their ties to nature. But the movement has since spread to a variety of men’s wear brands.
“Many men’s brands are interested in sustainability as it provides operating efficiencies that reduce impacts and reflect the values of the brand to both consumers and even investors where applicable,” she said.
So whether it’s PVH’s goal to generate zero waste, or Perry Ellis’ new solar panel installation project at its distribution center in Seneca, S.C., companies big and small have gotten on board.
Here is a closer look at some of the brands leading the way in men’s wear.
Christopher Raeburn
Just call him the King of Upcycling. The U.K.-based designer has been a champion

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Etro Men’s Line to Make Runway Comeback in June

RUNWAY RETURN: Etro is bringing its men’s line back on the catwalk.
Following a three-season runway hiatus, during which Etro men’s creative director Kean Etro organized engaging presentations, the brand will unveil its spring 2020 collection with a show on June 16.
The last men’s collection that Etro showed on the catwalk was the spring 2018 lineup, which was presented with a coed runway show at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio venue in Milan.
The location of the upcoming men’s show is still to be disclosed. After seasons of shows held at Palazzo del Ghiaccio, last February Etro showed its women’s fall 2019 collection at Milan’s Giuseppe Verdi music conservatory.
Etro, which counts more than 200 stores, is investing in communication and marketing, strengthening the experience in stores and increasing digital content. Europe is still Etro’s biggest market, representing 30 percent of sales. It is followed by Asia and the U.S., accounting for 30 and 20 percent of the brand’s total business, respectively.

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SportChek – Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!

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Chief Merchant Scott Norris Exits Men’s Wearhouse

The changes have begun at Tailored Brands.
The California-based men’s wear retailer has parted ways with Scott Norris, the long-time chief merchant for its flagship Men’s Wearhouse division, WWD has learned.
Norris, who had been with the company since the mid-1990s, was named brand president of Men’s Wearhouse and Moores in 2014. He started his career as a buyer for Macy’s in 1991 and joined The Men’s Wearhouse as executive vice president and general merchandise manager in 1996, according to his LinkedIn profile.
“After 22 incredible years and countless contributions to The Men’s Wearhouse, Scott Norris has decided to leave the company to try something new,” a company spokesperson confirmed. “We wish him every success in his next chapter.”
Norris could not be reached for comment.
Last fall, Tailored Brands brought Carrie Ask on board as president of the Men’s Wearhouse and Moores brands. Norris, who had held that position since 2014, was named chief merchant.
At the end of March, the company elevated Dinesh Lathi, the former executive chairman, to chief executive officer, succeeding Doug Ewert, who had retired from the top post at the end of September 2018.
Lathi has been highly critical of the company’s past strategies, saying the retailer has underinvested in its

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WWD Men’s Summit: Hilary Coles of Hims

Hims is making waves in the wellness industry by tapping into a market that has otherwise been largely neglected: men.
“We launched Hims to address and normalize conversations that have been too often stigmatized and educate men that it’s OK to take care of themselves and actually, it’s kind of weird not to,” said Hilary Coles, Hims’ brand leader. “We help men take care of themselves through a telemedicine platform. What that means is that we offer men access to over-the-counter and prescription medicine via an easy-to-use online consultation that pairs them with doctors licensed in their states and from a network of pharmacies across the country.”
Launched 18 months ago, Hims now has “hundreds of thousands” of men using its platform, said Coles, which gives them access to FDA-approved, medical-grade products, educational tools and medical expertise.
“In health care, there’s a debilitating stigma attached to really important issues for men. It’s largely caused by a vacuum and a lack of conversation because men are unfortunately afraid to approach these hard conversations and they’re afraid to approach them with doctors, with their closest friends and even with their partners,” Coles said.
To combat this stigma, Coles and her team place extra emphasis on packaging

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Grailed Founder on Future of the Men’s Fashion ‘Movement’

Men’s fashion has changed a lot in the past decade, and Arun Gupta sees it changing still.
Led by a young male consumer obsessed with streetwear, a new interest in fashion has led the popular success of sites like Grailed, which Gupta founded in 2013 as a marketplace and community platform for “super enthusiasts,” like himself. But already the culture is moving beyond streetwear.
“The men’s clothing movement, it being acceptable for men to care more about the clothes they wear, has been building for the past 10 years,” Gupta said. “But streetwear is the last phase of it.”
Already on Grailed, he said the inventory is about evenly split between streetwear and fashion, possibly a sign that the realm is cooling off a bit. And then there’s the split between the two types of fashion consumers Gupta is seeing.
“One is the consumer who buys to wear it, then there’s the consumer buying to flip it,” Gupta said. “It’s very prevalent in sneakers and now very prevalent in streetwear and it’s pretty unique to the ecosystem.”
He compared the level of resale with a brand like Celine, where new items have been slow to appear on Grailed and a brand like Supreme, which shows

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MEN’S FORUM: The Whitaker Group’s James Whitner Relies on Instinct and Close Consumer Connections to Stay Ahead

For The Whitaker Group’s founder James Whitner, being the consumer is essential to knowing the consumer.
With an assortment of stores via his company’s four retail entities — Social Status, A.P.B., Prosper and A Ma Maniére — Whitner emphasized the importance of being submerged with the people you are trying to connect with. He asked, “Are you focused on the consumer? Do you know who the consumer is and why? Most people don’t. You’re casting a wide net in men’s wear…I’m the guy. I’m the guy who’s buying the stuff and wearing the stuff.”
Aside from anticipating what his shoppers want, Whitner spoke of how he tries to design spaces that they will emotionally respond to. “I’m always trying to re-create the places and spaces I’ve been in. I feel like I have a romantic affair with the consumer in the process. Can someone cue the music? [Romantic tunes follow.] When I walk into a store, this is how I feel. I’m being romanced by the romance,” he said.
Referring to outdated business practices that can’t keep up with quick fire social media and fashion’s rapid speed of change, Whitner said, “You’ve got to set your businesses up to move like we move.

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Men’s Wear Movers

These 12 designers, brands, retailers and influencers are changing the face of the men’s wear industry.
 
1. Hedi Slimane
 
As the original androgynous designer who set in motion the skinny tailoring movement in his days at Dior Homme, it’s no surprise that Hedi Slimane’s appointment as artistic, creative and image director at Celine was one of the most newsworthy debuts of last year, marking the label’s first steps into the men’s arena.
“I am enchanted; what a great choice,” said the late Karl Lagerfeld, one of Slimane’s most enthusiastic fans, at the time of Slimane’s appointment at Celine in January 2018.
Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has called Slimane “one of the most talented designers of our time.”
The Frenchman has a track record of reinterpreting cool and attracting youth, tapping into the energy of the music and art scenes and positing his designs in a broader cultural context.
The nomination — which also includes heading Celine’s women’s fashion as well as leather goods, accessories and fragrances — was part of an ambition to at least double the brand’s sales within five years, making it one of LVMH’s top labels after Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior.
With his debut

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Noma T.D. RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Noma T.D.
Main message: Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki have been designing their brand for more than a decade, but their latest collection was the first one they presented at Tokyo Fashion Week. First they showed a short film directed by Rinko Kawauchi with music by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Titled “Harmony,” it showed simple, everyday scenes at a family country house and the surrounding wilderness as winter changes to spring.
Next, a black curtain opened to reveal eight models in relaxed, outdoorsy Noma T.D. looks. A pajama-like set of flannel pants and a shirt in a big, bold check pattern was paired with a black fishing vest for men, while a gray, navy and dark green floral print satin dress peeked out from under a plush wool coat for women. There was also a blue tie-dyed sweatsuit, a shirt embroidered with large flowers, and a quilted black coat with striped satin sleeves in black and deep blue.
The result: The offering, while small, showed a balance between street-ready and outdoorsy pieces, making it well suited for the modern urbanite.

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Mytheresa Expands Into Men’s Wear, Taps Chris Kyvetos

LONDON – Munich-based retailer Mytheresa is adding men’s wear to its offer and bringing Sneakerboy founder Chris Kyvetos to be its new buying director of men’s wear.
Kyvetos, a serial entrepreneur who founded the Australian chain of concept showrooms selling high-end and mass market sneakers via iPad, will be tasked with building a new dedicated men’s wear team and developing the retailer’s market strategy for the category.
Kyvetos is also the buyer and franchise partner of Balenciaga in Australia and previously served as a consultant at Stylebop, another Munich-based e-commerce site. In addition to Sneakerboy, which Kyvetos has opened to re-sellers as of late and developed as a space where “kids sell shoes to each other”, he has also been planning the launch of his own sneaker line, Athletic Footwear, as well as the opening of a new China atelier that will will champion ethical and transparent footwear manufacturing.
For Mytheresa, hiring Kyvetos and moving into men’s wear was the next step, following on from the strong growth of the company’s women’s wear business and expansion into kid’s wear last year. “Men’s wear will be a natural expansion for Mytheresa and represents a significant business opportunity going forward. We see a strong momentum

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The Women of Men’s Wear

It’s not just an old boys club in men’s wear. There are a few women who have spent nearly their entire careers designing, merchandising, presenting or selling to the guys. Here, a look at 10 ladies who have made their mark in the men’s industry and continue to stand out from the crowd.
Mary Beth Blake, president, Jos. A. Bank

Mary Beth Blake 
Courtesy Photo

Work history:
Blake joined Tailored Brands Inc. in 2008 as the chief merchandising officer of K&G, then served as executive vice president for Tailored Brands. She was charged with overseeing the Jos. A. Bank division in 2016. Blake started her career in merchandising with May Department Stores Co. and also spent several years with Macy’s including a stint as general merchandise manager of men’s wear for the Midwest division.
What do you find appealing about the men’s industry?
Men’s wear is undergoing transformation as men are becoming more style- and fit-aware. This sea change as well as casualization of his work wardrobe make it an exciting time to be in the men’s industry.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of being a woman in men’s wear?
One advantage is that women bring an outside perspective to the men’s clothing business. Men’s clothing is evolving, and we

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Salvatore Ferragamo to Stage Men’s Show at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Salvatore Ferragamo will unveil its spring 2020 men’s wear collection in the brand’s native city, Florence.
The luxury fashion house will stage a runway show on June 11 during international men’s trade show Pitti Uomo.
Following three seasons of coed shows hosted during the women’s editions of Milan Fashion Week, Salvatore Ferragamo will hold the “Florence Calling” event dedicated to its men’s wear collection, designed by creative director Paul Andrew with the support of Guillaume Meilland, head of men’s wear. Andrew has recently put on hold his namesake footwear line to focus exclusively on the design of Salvatore Ferragamo men’s and women collections.
“Florence has always been a creative and inspirational platform for Salvatore Ferragamo and for our founder. Pitti Uomo is therefore the natural location for expressing the contemporary vision that represents us today: strong cultural continuity between different generations, with a constant eye to the future,” said Andrew.
“It is an opportunity for emphasizing our DNA, that added value that makes us distinctly unique,” he added.
Salvatore Ferragamo chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo put the focus on the special link between the company and its native city.
“Florence is our heart, a part of our history,” Ferragamo said. “At a moment of great consolidation

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Cinoh RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Cinoh
Main message: Takayuki Chino has been heading his own brands for over a decade, but as one of the winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, he staged a runway show for the first time this season. With it, he showed his audience just why Cinoh has reached levels of popularity that many Tokyo brands can only hope for, being carried by top retailers across Japan.
The designer showed a relaxed, slightly disheveled sophistication. A leopard print, plush fleece pantsuit and long, fringed straight skirts for women shared the runway with men’s suits that were reimagined with pullovers in the place of button-front jackets. Long satin dresses, pleather overalls, fuzzy knits and easy fit trousers were given a subtle injection of Nineties grunge when paired with oversize plaid jackets and shirts. The theme was also hinted at in the show’s soundtrack, which included an instrumental backing track of Nirvana’s 1991 hit “Smells Like Teen Spirit.”
The result: With equal parts elegance and comfort, it was a collection that will surely resonate with Tokyo’s fashion-forward youth, without alienating older consumers.

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Nobuyuki Matsui Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Nobuyuki Matsui
Main message: The first clue that Nobuyuki Matsui’s first Tokyo Fashion Week outing was going to be something unusual was the invitation: a small cardboard box holding a single air pillow, on which details of the show were printed. When audience members arrived, they were asked to step over the back of long benches in order to reach their seats. The long, narrow runway was strewn with air packaging, some filled with goose down, which popped under the models’ feet, adding a strange kind of percussion to the soundtrack.
Some of the clothes also incorporated the pillow-like pouches, which were tied with strings to coats or stuffed inside a tan leather vest that was cut to look like another form of packaging material. But the concept didn’t run through the entire collection, and some looks of simple pants and shirts felt bland and unimaginative. More interesting was Matsui’s modern take on tailoring, which included pullover vests and suits with exposed stitching, contrast fabrics, and trousers that were either cropped or cinched with belts at the ankle.
The result: The collection showed ingenuity and a fresh take on some men’s wear staples, but it was inconsistent and would have benefited from

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Bloomingdale’s Introducing Dylan Gray Men’s Brand for Spring

Bloomingdale’s is getting back into the men’s private brand business.
A decade after the retailer retired its in-house collections brands, Joseph & Lyman and Metropolitan View, in favor of a classifications strategy, it is launching a bridge collection for spring under the name Dylan Gray.
The line is described as “a modern, sophisticated update on classic men’s sportswear that fuses the elegance of European luxury with the ease of American sportswear.”
The 38-piece collection of soft tailored clothing, transitional outerwear, knits and trousers is manufactured predominantly in Europe. It is designed to be a hybrid of tailored and sportswear.
“We felt there was a white space in the European transitional classic zone in our stores,” said Dan Leppo, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and home for Bloomingdale’s. “We think there’s an opportunity with all that’s happening in direct-to-consumer today to offer great value and great fashion that moves beyond commodity.”
Leppo said Dylan Gray is “made with the modern man in mind, offering solutions for work or play for today’s smart casual lifestyle, without sacrificing style. It’s about fusing classic sportswear with Old World sophistication at a compelling price point.”
Prices will range from $ 98 to $ 698 and will include marled bird’s-eye polos,

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Postelegant RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Postelegant
Main message: One of the six winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, Yuya Nakata’s fledgling brand (established only two years ago) aims to make “timeless modern wear with the best materials and details.” For the brand’s first collection shown on the runway, it did just that. The silhouettes were classic and refined, including different cuts of long coats, tailored trousers and calf-length dresses. And while they were beautifully cut to move with the body, it was the fabrics that set them apart from simple basics. Wool blends in sky blue and red, ribbed knits in the perfect shade of medium gray, a fine, bone-colored twill, and a trio of cloths all in dusty pink all begged a second look.
The result: A newcomer on the Tokyo fashion scene, Nakata proved himself as one to watch with a collection that went beyond elegant to something new and undeniably modern.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Mistergentleman
Main message: Always one of the bright spots during Tokyo Fashion Week, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s men’s brand mixed easy tailoring with streetwear, outdoor and women’s wear influences for fall. Models walked the grass-like carpeted runway in retro, relaxed snakeskin print suits paired with satin double-breasted shirts and neckerchiefs, or velvet pants with roomy overcoats. The more casual looks included dad jeans, hooded sweatshirts and duck canvas jackets, all in neutral shades of gray, brown, khaki and black, interspersed with pops of purple, green and orange.
Osumi and Yoshii played with proportions, shrinking trenches and puffer jackets into crop tops and styling them over wool coats and loose sweaters. Moto, letterman and toggle jackets were chopped up into bib-like pieces and layered over outerwear, while a series of coats and jackets were cut from two contrasting fabrics: olive corduroy and gray wool flannel, or plush fleece with the same snake print from earlier pieces. Subtle feminine touches came in the form of silk scarves worn as belts over coats, and a handful of equestrian print jackets and shifts. The brand also debuted its latest collaboration products, including quilted bags made with Outdoor Products and a black satin bomber designed

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Beverly Hills Men’s Suiting Veteran Jumps to Avedon

Stuart Newmark, the longtime general manager of the now-shuttered men’s retailer Carroll & Co., has created a new customization concept within existing retailer Avedon in Beverly Hills with the help of senior buyer and partner in the business Nancy Herrera.
Newmark, who served as general manager of Carroll & Co. for more than 30 years, teamed with Avedon owners Reza Shekarchian and Yasmine Farmanara on a lounge concept called Bespoke at Avedon. The deal merges his buying prowess with that of Shekarchian to merchandise the men’s store.
Carroll & Co. began a store closing sale late last year, shuttering its doors for good after the Carroll family received an offer they couldn’t refuse on the building the retailer occupied. Carroll & Co. had long been a mainstay in Beverly Hills, once frequented by high-profile A-listers such as Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and Jack Lemmon.
Newmark, still seeing a demand for customization and luxury men’s brands, spotted a hole in the market with Carroll & Co.’s closure.
“It’s still viable. We had a huge custom business, which is also a big part of what I’m doing here, along with carrying inventory similar to what we did there,” said Newmark, who was hired in 1989 by

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The Reracs RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: The Reracs
Main message: With her inaugural show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Naomi Kurahashi displayed just how to present classic pieces on a runway without boring the audience: make sure to have plenty of variety, use beautiful textiles, keep the pace quick, and employ inventive styling choices. The brand lived up to its profile, which says that it’s “backed by quality and practicality,” but proved that it has so much more to offer.
The collection was made up of variations on a pretty basic theme: straight-legged or relaxed, jogger-style trousers paired with V-neck sweaters or just about any kind of outerwear imaginable, all turned out in neutral tones of gray, black, navy, white and beige. But the superior construction and luxurious textiles elevated the collection beyond simple classics, with suiting material showing a drape resembling that of matte jersey, and a black pleather poncho turning more heads than it would have if it had been made from animal skin. The fabrics were so beautiful on their own that there was no need for flashy prints, but occasional flashes of Fair Isle, argyle or checked patterns kept things interesting.
The result: Kurahashi has been designing The Reracs for nearly a decade, but proved

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Ssense Launches Marine Serre Men’s Line

Ssense has snagged the exclusive for the launch of the Marine Serre’s first men’s designs.
The 22-piece collection includes fleece jackets, dégradé tracksuits, bike shorts, T-shirts and accessories that are rich in Nineties nostalgia.
The collection retails from $ 95 for a whistle-festooned lariat to $ 2,270 for a floral-print blanket coat.
Ssense is a luxury retailer based in Montreal that has a strong following with men and women under the age of 34.
Serre, a Parisian-based designer, has been a winner of the LVMH Prize, and made her mark with crescent-moon print bodysuits and dresses made from upcycled silk scarves for women. Her clothes blend futuristic, athletic and couture references.

She had interned at Maison Margiela and quit her job in the studio of Balenciaga in September 2017 to focus on her own label. This is her first men’s wear capsule.

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Retailers Weigh In on the Pros and Cons of Men’s Fashion Week

Men’s wear retailers had a choice to make this week: stay in New York for the men’s runway shows or jump a flight to Las Vegas for the trade shows.
As reported, both events overlap this season; an unfortunate shift in dates by Project to a week earlier forced merchants and vendors to choose between the two.
NYFW: Men’s will run Feb. 4 to 6 in New York City — the start of the larger 10-day New York Fashion Week — while Project, Liberty Fairs and Agenda will run Feb. 5 to 7 in Las Vegas.
The men’s part of the show calendar has had trouble gaining traction since it was introduced by the Council of Fashion Designers of America four years ago. Most of the marquee designers have either opted for dual-gender shows — Tom Ford, Michael Kors and John Elliott among them — or showed in Europe, such as Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne. Other men’s designers have opted out of showing in New York altogether including Billy Reid, Perry Ellis and Carlos Campos.
With some exceptions — Joseph Abboud, Todd Snyder, Robert Geller and Ovadia & Sons — the men’s-specific days on the calendar are full of little-known designer names, many of

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Select Shoes & Boots 30% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 1/31-2/13. Shop Now!

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Select Shoes & Boots 30% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 1/31-2/13. Shop Now!

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Shoes and Boots Up to $120 Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 1/31-2/13. Shop Now!

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NYFW: Designers’ Men’s Fall 2019 Inspirations

New York always offers a diverse group of designers, with aesthetics that range from classic men’s wear to streetwear, and even nonbinary. As the last round of the men’s fall runway season gets under way, brands offer a peek into their inspiration this season — everything from technical sport and the California desert rock scene from the Sixties to  uniforms for the modern-day cannabis ambassadors.
 
“Combining robust flannel, washed tweeds and vintage velvets — the contrasting textures, hues and patterns in the Joseph Abboud fall 2019 collection are as unique and diverse as the immigrants who helped found this country.” — Joseph Abboud
“This season, art — an integral strand of the Boss DNA — is our starting point. We take on the role of curator, traveling the world in search of creative ideas, and have stopped in New York. The gallery district in Chelsea has inspired the design, creation and curation of the new fall collection.” — Ingo Wilts, chief brand officer, Boss
“Dyne fall 2019 stays true to its technical sports-inspired roots, elevating the materials through texture and color and inspired by the beautiful outdoors of the Oregon Painted Hills. Tailoring is at its roots as always and fabrics have been sculpted

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New York Men’s Fashion Week: Bruised, but Still in the Ring

After three years, the bold experiment of a stand-alone men’s wear fashion week struggles to survive.
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Todd Snyder Men’s Fall 2019

Todd Snyder transported guests to his basement, circa 1970 — think green carpeting and wood paneling — for his fall runway show.
The first look — a chocolate brown corduroy parka over a black-and-white checkerboard sweater with high-waisted pegged officer’s pants — set the perfect Seventies tone. Other Seventies throwbacks included a cognac-colored leather topcoat with a newsboy cap and a large assortment of shaggy dog sweaters.
“It’s all about irreverent prep and mixing East End boys with a bit of a street edge,” Snyder said backstage before the show.
His use of haberdashery-style shirts that looked more like thrift store finds, and a reconstructed Iowa State hoodie — the designer’s alma mater — paired with tight velvet sweatpants drove the point home.
The true highlights of the show were the outerwear collaborations with Descente, the high-end Osaka-based ski brand. Snyder put his own take on the technical gear by using English fabrics in fitted parkas. Other outerwear included oversize statement coats that Snyder called “sleeper puffers,” another collaboration with Crescent Down Works.
The vivid color palette of oranges, purples and jewel greens added an extra layer to the already athletic offering and were also employed on Snyder’s assortment of suits and tailored topcoats.
The collection stuck to

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Randa Invests in Stantt Men’s Brand

Randa has signed on as the lead investor in Stantt, a made-to-measure men’s wear brand. Randa was joined by New England Development, CompanyFirst, Sapna Shah of Red Giraffe Advisors, and entrepreneur John DeWees. The amount of the Series A financing was not disclosed but is said to have been a multi-million dollar investment.
The New York-based Stantt was cofounded in 2013 by Matt Hornbuckle and Kirk Keel and uses proprietary DataFit Technology, which is comprised of 99 sizes and an algorithm that requires only three measurements to create a custom fit. The brand offers wovens, knits and performance cloth in a variety of regular and big and tall sizes. All garments are made-to-order and delivered in seven days.
The financing round was led by Randa Digital Labs and will be used by Stantt to “increase marketing partnerships and support to more than 300 retail partners, enhance brand touch-points across all channels, drive expansion into new product categories and enable the hiring of key personnel,” the company said.
Heath Golden, president of Randa Digital Labs, said his company “appreciated the value of Stantt’s business model from the beginning. We are confident that Matt and Kirk will leverage these funds to take the company to the next

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EXCLUSIVE: Heron Preston on Opening Paris Men’s Fashion Week

PARIS — “Streetwear on the runways of Paris has always been that vision that I’ve shared with my friends, the ultimate opportunity to present some new fresh ideas in a city and platform that we have always looked up to,” said Heron Preston, who today at the Palais de Tokyo will present the first runway show of his namesake label, as part of the official calendar of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Call him a quick learner. Preston, who was “raised” by the skate culture in San Francisco where he grew up, and who first started making noise in 2012 with his art-project bootleg spins on the Givenchy Rottweiler T-shirt, said that it was only around four years ago, when he started working with Kanye West, that he was introduced to the world of Paris fashion.
A former art director for West, Preston — who’s considered a post-Internet Renaissance man — worked at Nike and was also a part of the Been Trill art and DJ collective with Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders and Matthew Williams.
“I really put myself in that environment with Virgil, Matthew and Kanye [West]. And going to Paris with those guys, I was always that kid who felt like a bit

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Begin: 2019-01-31 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-02-13 23:00:00
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All Hail the Stand-alone Men’s Showcase

PARIS — Whoever said fashion was fickle? At the opening of one of the most highly anticipated Paris men’s weeks in history, could the conscious uncoupling of a cluster of the industry’s most influential brands returning to stand-alone show formats for men’s trigger an about-turn from other players aboard the coed movement? And could the shift indicate that the coed format on many levels is not working out?
Among the switchers adding major clout to the week, which opened Tuesday, Givenchy, Jil Sander and Celine will present the first stand-alone men’s shows under their respective creative directors — Clare Waight Keller, Luke and Lucie Meier and Hedi Slimane — with the latter marking the brand’s first men’s show.
Paris newcomer J.W. Anderson has also returned to a separate showcase for men’s.
“We observe that after testing the formula, several brands [are going] back to stand-alone shows in order in their view to more clearly value each of the two collections,” noted Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
It’s a move that’s drawn the collective thumbs-up from men’s editors and buyers. But with the coed juggernaut already well in motion, the future of the dedicated men’s fashion

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Paris Men’s Fashion Week: A Survival Guide

Where: The Marais, still the go-to zone for new shops, eateries and cafés.
Shows in the area: Acne Studios, Facetasm, Alyx, Cmmn Swdn and Lemaire.
What not to miss: Looking for a bite to eat between Facetasm and Acne Studios? Leg it to Raw to Go, a new takeaway spot opened by culinary duo Marie and William Pradeleix that specializes in raw food — think sashimi, beef tartare, cold-pressed juices and cacao bars. For a spot of shopping, new men’s concept-store La Garçonnière carries more than 200 brands, including Danish outerwear label Rains, funky eyewear styles by French start-up Izipizi and the ubiquitous — and sustainable — Veja sneakers, as well as a barber shop. As happy hour comes closer, check out the new bar Cambridge Public House, which was opened on Jan. 14 by Hyacinthe Lescoët, former head barman at the Mary Céleste. “Fancy cocktail places can be a bit intimidating, so we wanted to recreate the vibe of an English pub, with cozy furniture and an open mindset,” said the drinks maestro. Good to know for Dry January: around a quarter of the creative cocktails listed on the menu will be spirit free.
Raw to Go, 56 Rue de Turenne, 75003. Open

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Browns Hosts Dinner to Mark Fantastic Man’s Book About Men’s Dressing

LIGHT FANTASTIC: What’s the opposite of hi-tech? The new book by Fantastic Man magazine, “What Men Wear and Why.” A soft cover printed on recycled paper, it includes lots of charming interviews with men about how they dress themselves every day. The interviews are long — no social media-sized commentary here — and, crucially, there are no illustrations or images. Readers — refreshingly — are forced to use their mind’s eye.
Browns hosted a cocktail and dinner on Saturday night during Paris Men’s Fashion Week to mark the book’s publication, and its collaboration with Fantastic Man. The retailer has given over the windows of its store on South Molton Street to different quotes and themes from the book. The event took place at Brasserie Vaudeville, across from the Bourse, with guests including Stefano Pilati, Martine Rose, Liam Hodges, Raf Simons, Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Serhat Isik, Lucie and Luke Meier, Charles Jeffrey and Lou Dalton.

The scene at the dinner 
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Pilati was looking natty in a white, illustrated Comme des Garcons shirt and a jacket of his own design, part of his newest clothing drop, set for Feb. 7. He said there’s a lot more tailoring in the upcoming delivery, and smiled as

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Dunhill Men’s Fall 2019

Building on his distinctive aesthetic for the house, Mark Weston continued his tweaking of the classic wardrobe, pushing a dressier, evening vibe underscored by a dark palette mixing gray, black and navy with optic white.
The designer tinkered with proportions, like the boxy looking double-breasted jackets, especially one in an oversize check print. New directions included the total looks based on a matching pant, jacket and funnel-neck top in the same fabric.
Details added elements of cool: the buckle belt worn off-center, kimono lapels on classic double-breasted jackets, which lent a minimalist flavor, and slits at the hem of large pants to make them flare over the shoe.
Weston continued mixing traditional pieces with leather, spanning T-shirts and shirts with white stitching details on the collar, with black velvet among the key fabrics.
His use of feminine moiré silks and a peppering of jewel tones on cummerbunds and a parka towards the end added a luxurious touch. Ditto for a striking brown print evoking the walnut burl interiors of a vintage Rolls-Royce or Jaguar.

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Bergdorf’s Bruce Pask to Get Shop at Men’s Store

Customers are about to get a much closer glimpse into the life and loves of Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s fashion director Bruce Pask.
Next month, the upscale men’s retailer will open a new shop on the third floor of its men’s store called B. The 450-square-foot space will offer a collection of some of Pask’s favorite pieces from brands including Craig Green, Le Mont St. Michel, Clarks Originals, Closed, Common Projects and Want Les Essentiels. The shop will also mark some new additions to the store, including Margaret Howell, Lou Dalton, Bode and Armor Lux.
Pask described the merchandise in B as “handpicked wardrobe-creation pieces but with a point of view.” The pieces are “neutral and easy, but a bit more special.” For example, he said he’s been wearing wide-leg pants for a while and Closed created a double-pleated khaki that fit that bill, while the desert boots he’s worn since he was in college were updated by Clark’s in a suede basket weave.
The merchandise will be sold in a multivendor approach rather than by individual brand, he said.
“It’s my personal take, but I believe it’s a broad enough edit to speak to a wide audience,” he said. “They’re great, easy, well-made, personality-filled

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Unravel Men’s Fall 2019

The offering of men’s looks was a lot more limited than past seasons at Unravel. “It’s probably half of what it used to be,” admitted creative director Ben Taverniti, speaking at the brand’s showroom in Paris. “I felt like over the seasons my aesthetic got lost, so I shrunk back in order to recreate this foundation and then build back as we go along.”
The small collection in a select color palette – black, white, grey – allowed for the style innovations to shine. Layering, a favorite theme, was pushed to extremes, especially on the lower level of the body: a pair of drop-crotch pants was worn with thick socks and high-top shoes, covering every inch in different layers of texture.
Zips were added to the sides of black down jackets: once open, the garment looked almost cape-like. The action exposed the different volumes underneath, like a layered denim jacket or a fine-knit cashmere.
Straps dangled along trouser legs and hoodies came printed with a torn-looking brand logo mirroring the deconstructed collages created by the team to illustrate the season’s lookbook. Analog pictures of American natural landscapes were scanned and added to the collection pictures in a nod to Taverniti’s design process. “I

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Vetements Men’s and Women’s Fall 2019

“We ended up realizing that the geeks have become the new punks by inventing the smartphone, something that changed the whole world,” said Demna Gvasalia, tackling a new subject on the Vetements runway: the Internet, especially the Darknet. That includes “all the crazy, scary things that we can acquire there or use in the backstage of what we know as the Internet. How far can it go?”
It came through partly in the graphic work and slogans on hoodies and T-shirts that Gvasalia has been using since the start of the label. He used the T-shirt — “a product that is part of the fashion vocabulary, like it or not,” he reasoned — as a sounding board for what he and members of his team have on their mind and how they see the world. Slogans ranged from, “I survived swine flu, now I’m vegan,” to “Made in Europe,” with as one of the key graphics a president-themed stamp. Backpacks were decorated with scary faces, complete with creepy floor-sweeping trails of hair, while shrugs were made from disemboweled teddy bears.
Gvasalia said, “after five years doing Vetements, looking for my Balenciaga, my Vetements, separating those things and making sure I enjoy doing those

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OAMC Men’s Fall 2019

Tailoring is shouldering its way back into men’s wear, often with multiple layers made from the same fabric. This is how Luke Meier opened his assured show for fall, with its undercurrent of Seattle grunge and other sly Nineties references.
He’s skilled at voluptuous, large shapes, managing to make his oversized coats and shirts look chic and elegant, never sloppy. Meier employed lots of gray wool, which heightened the utilitarian undercurrent always present in his OAMC designs.
The hospital green vinyl walls were a wink to Matthew Barney’s “Cremaster” series, and the kink of Barney’s art performances surfaced in the latex turtlenecks, illustrated carrier bags and a butter-toned trench that undulated like jelly. Clinical pastels and checked patterns added some cheer to the austere shapes.
Meier’s roomy, tone-on-tone suits and coats were among the show’s strongest looks, with boxy gray wool jackets layered over long double-breasted coats and generously cut trousers. Some of them had a workwear feel, while others were more sartorial.
Other standouts included oversized check shirts and coats with a touch of Kurt Cobain, while bags and T-shirts showcased the freeform line drawings of Meier’s friend, the artist and musician Daniel Johnston. Meier said that, going forward, OAMC plans to work

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Saks Scores Retail Exclusive of Kim Jones’ Dior Men’s Collection

Saks Fifth Avenue has managed to snag the early launch of the much-coveted debut collection of Kim Jones for Dior Men.
Although the line will be offered at other stores in early February — including in an installation with some exclusive pieces at Nordstrom Men in New York and Seattle — Saks has secured the early retail exclusive for the line. The line has already launched at Dior’s stores, including the eight in the U.S. that carry men’s wear.
Saks will be carrying the full collection of ready-to-wear, sneakers and accessories embellished with the brand’s signature bee logo that has been reimagined by street artist KAWS.
The summer collection will be available at Saks’ New York, Beverly Hills, Chicago, San Francisco, Atlanta, Houston and Toronto stores on Jan. 16, two weeks ahead of other retailers. It will not be available online at Saks but is being sold on the Dior e-commerce site.
Product pricing will range from $ 490 for a KAWS bee T-shirt to $ 5,900 for a crystal KAWS bee denim jacket.
Saks will devote the center six windows at its Fifth Avenue flagship to the launch from Jan. 16 to Jan. 30. They will feature KAWS’ designs including the bee motif as well as

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Han Kjobenhavn Men’s Fall 2019

Speaking a couple of days before his brand’s first show in Paris, Jannik Wikkelso Davidsen confided it proved tricky to find a suitable venue for his planned set design, as he needed somewhere with a 10- to 15-meter-high ceiling. The result didn’t disappoint: a dystopian Denmark greeted guests at the Han Kjobenhavn show on Tuesday night, complete with towering concrete blocks and structures seemingly made of urban junk, such as a cluster of television aerials.
The theme of the collection was “Fairytale Denmark,” riffing on the idealized perception of the country by foreigners. Davidsen’s Denmark, inspired by his upbringing in suburban Copenhagen, is fierce and gritty: outdated-looking “Visit Denmark” sweatshirts were paired with baggy trousers and colorful track pants, worn by scowling youths who looked straight out of an underground club.
The designs were based around items Nineties teenagers would steal from their parents’ closet and match with their own: a football jersey was seen peeking out from underneath an oversized dad suit, leather and shearling jackets looked clearly borrowed, especially when paired with bright sweatpants or embellished jeans.
Expected Nineties nods – bare midriffs, plaid jackets, XXL knit jumpers – felt fresh thanks to clever styling, and the whole collection had a grunge

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Milan’s Titans — Zegna, Versace, Prada — Do Men’s Wear Battle

Multi-ethnic models, sporty footwear and gender-fluid styles stood out on the fall show runways.
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No. 21 Men’s Fall 2019

After a sea of bright colors and a season of streetwear and logos, Alessandro Dell’Acqua served up a refined and elegant palette cleanser while still keeping it super young.
The starting point was cult classic, Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s sailor movie “Querelle de Brest.” “Not the muscles, but rather the fragility of the sailors when together,” the designer said backstage.
The cute navy and red sailor knits were the obvious till ringers. But the designer in his delivery — a super clean Nineties allure with tailored proportions — also succeeded in softening the nuances and subculture references, and make it more approachable in a young, non-threatening way, without losing impact.
That included a great black leather shirt cut with a larger collar to make it feel casual and less costume-y.
He combined new technology with classic fabrics, going from a vinyl-like coated poplin used on jackets and pants to a coat cut from black radzimir. It lent a hint of eroticism and mystery to the collection, much like the great closing parka presented fully unzipped and off the shoulder, like an evening gown, only worn over a crisp white shirt and tie.

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Italy’s Men’s Sales, Exports Grow in 2018, Brands Support MFW

MILAN — Trade policies, Brexit uncertainties, social protests in France and European political elections are factors that could influence the economy this year, but Brunello Cucinelli is unwavering: “Of one thing I am sure: it’s not true that men don’t want to buy, I don’t believe this at all.” With “at least three different posts” on social media per day, men “must change depending on the occasion. We take more care of our looks because we will be posted. It’s a new way of life,” he argued.
Figures released by Centro Studi of fashion industry association Confindustria Moda support this positive take — even 2019 is seen as “stable” compared with 2018 and showing “limited dynamism,” based on the spring 2019 orders. That said, the Italian men’s wear industry is expected to report 2018 sales of 9.44 billion euros, up 1.5 percent compared with 2017.
Men’s wear accounts for 17.5 percent of Italy’s textile and fashion revenues and 27.9 percent of all apparel. The first half of 2018 was particularly brisk, with exports up 5.5 percent, but business slowed starting last summer. Consumer spending in Italy was defined by the association as “one of the worst [since] 2013.” However, 2018 year-end figures

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MSGM Men’s Fall 2019

Massimo Giorgetti’s Sunday got off to a turbo-charged start in this dynamic homage to motor racing culture, mixing in tailoring and a Nineties post-punk attitude, Milano style.
The motorsport theme came through most literally in the flame-licked denim, logo T-shirts, archive photos of Ayrton Senna printed in shirts, and color-blocked shiny leathers with gathered drawstring waists.
Channeling a vitamin-charged energy, meanwhile, were the pink and orange neon K-ways in crunchy technical nylon, interspersed with gray and beige total looks with more of a Made-in-Italy bent, with puffers and leopard-print fleeces layered over elegant double-breasted wool coats. Giving a symbolic hometown nod were the black sweatshirts embroidered with the outline of the Madonnina topping the spire of Milan’s Duomo cathedral, part of the city’s skyline.
Tailoring in the expanded collection ranged from boxy double-breasted pinstripe blazers to the designer’s take on the new suit, pairing a zipped top and pant with the word ‘proibito,’ or ‘forbidden,’ printed on the fly.
The designer’s collaboration with Fila, on the brand’s 1992 Silva model, came strung from fanny packs worn by some of the models, with square-toed boots punctuating most of the looks.
Dynamic black-and-white scenes from the Eighties Japanese soccer-themed cartoon “Holly & Benji” surfaced in jacquards on

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Biuu Men’s Fall 2019

The Shanghai-based label designed by Wu Hao looked to opposites, outer space and the ancient Mayans for this polished collection of streetwear and tailored clothing. Tracksuits and slim boiler suits came color blocked, with pixel patterns or sparkling panels, while a puffer coat had a wavy optical grid print. Hao’s knits and tailored outerwear were standouts, as in a loose orange waffle knit sweater, and another with the image of an astronaut on the back. A dove gray car coat glistened as if it was wet while another, longer one was blindingly bright thanks to a flourish of neon yellow quilting that may well turn France’s “gilets jaunes” green with envy. An orange coat was tempered by the addition of a sleeveless, black leather vest, while stripes in primary colors jazzed up a few sober gray plaid jackets. Since he began showing in Milan last January, Hao has been looking to impress audiences in Europe and Asia-Pacific with his designs, and is making progress with two flagship stores in Shanghai.

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Paris Men’s Show Calendar Still In Flux as Protests Loom

IN FLUX: The calendar for next Saturday’s shows at Paris men’s fashion week continues to evolve, as organizers work to avert any danger of France’s yellow vests movement spoiling their carefully planned showcases.
Following Dior’s decision to advance its show to Friday, several other brands have rescheduled, although they have stuck to their original Jan. 19 date. Brands have contacted guests to advise them of the new time slots, but have requested the details be kept confidential in order not to alert protest organizers.
The show calendar on the web site of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion’s governing body, has not been updated yet to reflect the changes. Brands showing on Saturday include Sacai, Loewe, Thom Browne, White Mountaineering and Hermès.
Ralph Toledano, president of the federation, said it was in touch with city authorities to make sure everything goes without a hitch.
“We are working with the Paris police, which have made a number of recommendations concerning locations and time slots. Naturally, they are implementing every possible and imaginable measure, so we have followed those recommendations in a responsible manner,” Toledano told WWD.
He noted that it wasn’t the first time the federation has tweaked its schedule

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Canali Men’s Fall 2019

After seasons of unveiling its collections at Milan Fashion Week, Canali made a comeback to Florence with an evening event hosted inside the prestigious Palazzo Antinori. This was a smart move for the brand, as opting for a presentation format managed to openly showcase the high-end quality of its men’s offering. In keeping with current trends, Canali refreshed its tailoring with a relaxed, leisurewear-inspired approach. Graphic urban jackets were crafted from luxury fabrics, while cashmere coats featured sporty details, including detachable nylon hoodies. Corduroy pants were matched with turtlenecks with an artisan feel and country-chic blazers, while the elegant attitude of pin-striped suits was tempered by the narrow coats peppered by macro houndstooth patterns. Cozy alpaca and mohair gave a cozy, warm feel to the overcoats, highlighting the collection’s overall sense of luxurious comfort.

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Bethany Williams Men’s Fall 2019

Bethany Williams’ third collection was called “Adelaide House,” after a women’s shelter in Liverpool that caters to the needs of females, including domestic abuse, homelessness and post-imprisonment — one of only six such facilities in the U.K.
Williams tapped the talents of artist Giorgia Chiarion for this season, resulting in a series of portraits of Adelaide House residents and abstract paintings of Liverpool’s landscape, the latter of which Williams incorporated into the lineup.
Liverpool, in England’s north, is generally accepted to be a fairly gray sort of place, but Chiarion depicted it in bold primary shades that, in turn, were applied to Williams’ playful coed collection made, as always, from recycled and organic materials.
She worked with the Liverpool Echo newspaper to utilize newspaper waste, coating thin strips in wax then weaving it — through the aid of San Patrignano, a drug rehabilitation center in Italy — into a richly textured material, which Williams put to work in a nice A-line coat with patch pockets and a boxy shirt jacket and matching trousers.
She used recycled denim in jackets and jeans, printed with Chiarion’s abstract shapes, or in a clean off-white boiler suit featuring the delicate line-drawn portraits of Adelaide House.
The star look of the

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Christian Wijnants Adds Men’s Knitwear Capsule

KNIT WIT: With the men’s market continuing to gain momentum, Christian Wijnants is the latest designer to expand into the segment, with a capsule of luxury sweaters set to launch in June.
The collection will be presented to press and buyers in Paris alongside the women’s pre-collection at the Galerie d’Architecture on Jan. 19. Wijnants said the plan for now is to remain focused on the knitwear category.
Inspired by Uzbekistan, the Great Silk Road and its textile traders, the line includes a fine round-knit sweater and a turtleneck, both made from fine merino wool, and a round-neck style in baby alpaca. The color palette includes shades of orange as well as some inspired by American painter Alice Neel.
The Antwerp-based designer, who founded his label in 2003, said the success of a small men’s wear capsule he designed a few years ago for a few fans and clients inspired him to launch the collection, which also includes jacquard sweaters, intarsia sweaters and 3-D knits.

Christian Wijnants 

CLCC, the Luxembourg-based fashion fund headed by Belgian shipping magnate Christian Cigrang, which also has stakes in A.F. Vandevorst, Yang Li and Brussels-based jewelry brand Kim Mee Hye, acquired a 50 percent stake in the brand in 2013,

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Loewe Unveils New Men’s Collection, Eye/LOEWE/Nature

NATURE BOYS — Loewe has launched a permanent extension to its men’s collection cleverly called Eye/LOEWE/Nature, a pun on the outdoorsy essence of the line and its focus on sustainable aspects.
The collection is comprised of accessories made in Japan, including a satchel, a tote and backpack styles, as well as parkas constructed from technical material, sweaters made from partly recycled cotton fibers, cargo shorts, trousers and shirts in the clothing categories. Prices start from $ 265 for swim briefs to $ 1,290 for a backpack and $ 1,650 for the long parka.
The collection is available now at the pop-up at 52 Brewer Street until Feb. 4 and in selected Loewe stores and loewe.com from Jan. 10. Additionally, Loewe will donate 15 euros (about $ 17 at current exchange rates) to help fight plastic pollution.
“The reality of [sustainability issues] kicked in when I was watching a program about how most of Europe gets a lot of food from Spain and, obviously, a lot of plastic packaging gets put into the ground as waste. And I thought, what can we do?” Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson told WWD at the launch party for a pop-up store for the collection on Brewer Street in Soho, London, a savvy location

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JordanLuca Men’s Fall 2019

Design duo Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto told their fall 2019 story, through the lens of an obsessive, insomniac predator.
“We were fully focused on this one kind of man and this idea of him staring at the ceiling at night,” said Marchetto, pointing to the mattresses that hang on the walls of the brand’s presentation space. “We wanted to tilt the room and look from above.”
It made for a niche but compelling narrative.
The obsessive quality of this character they constructed, pushed the designers to deliver a carefully edited range filled with standout patterns, luxe fabrics and complex structures — the kind that you would find in the wardrobe of a man who “knows everything about himself.”
There were slim tailored suits in abstract jacquard fabrics — inspired by the look of mattresses over time — smart double-breasted coats layered over printed tracksuits and oversized parkas featuring layered panels or cartoonish prints, taken from Sixties soft porn magazines.
The duo also played with contrasts, layering feminine crinkled organza shirts under classic, argyle-knit vests or adding a more formal feel to tracksuits with corseted tops, reflecting the overall move away from sportswear that’s been happening across the London catwalks.
“Sportswear is the wrong word for

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Qasimi Men’s Fall 2019

Played out on a set three levels underground, Khalid Qasimi showed a collection that had toughened up since last season while still retaining his signature romantic optimism.
“It’s today’s vision of what’s going to happen next because we’re all questioning what will happen next,” said Qasimi. “None of us know what will happen next socially, culturally.”
He sent his urban nomads on an exploratory trip to the near future, where they were turned out in boxy shirts, rounded bomber jackets, cargo pants and some gorgeous coats in olive, navy and plum cashmere wool.
The notion of protection, an essential in the uncharted future, was explored through biker padding, which looked lovely in the subtle elbow panels on white shirts and in the ruched belts secured by nylon webbing, and in layering experiments in looks like the cropped jacket in deep grape wool worn over a black hoodie and paired with a pair of neon yellow silk track pants.
Other hits included many-pocketed flak jackets or roomy biker styles done out in shiny nylon or stiff cotton, and a padded biker jacket that had “Searching For The Unknown” embroidered in Islamic calligraphy on the back and was worn with matching nylon sweatpants.
A navy sweatshirt bore a fortifying

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What to Watch: New York Fashion Week: Men’s Latest Challenges

New York Fashion Week: Men’s has had trouble gaining a foothold since it was launched by the Council of Fashion Designers of America four years ago. The upcoming fall shows — slated for Feb. 4 to 6 — are facing even bigger challenges. First, an unexpected one-time shift in dates by the trade shows in Las Vegas means that retailers and editors who usually attend both will have to make a choice or abbreviate one or both of the events. Project, Liberty Fairs and Agenda will be held Feb. 5 to 7.
On top of that, many of fashion’s biggest and buzziest names have opted to either hold dual-gender shows or have decamped to other cities. Tom Ford will again hold a men’s and women’s show, as he has in past seasons, at 8 p.m. on Feb. 6, officially ending the men’s shows. The women’s shows kick off with Ralph Lauren on Feb. 7 at 10 a.m.
Also opting for dual-gender shows later in the week are Palm Angels — which is making its New York debut — on Feb. 8; John Elliott on Feb. 9; Opening Ceremony on Feb. 10, and Michael Kors on the final day, Feb. 13.
Calvin Klein, which

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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2019: What to See, Eat and Where to Shop

LONDON — The first weekend in January is never an easy one, but London has the antidote, with a lineup of streetwear and luxury stores and restaurants serving everything from classic British to Taiwanese food, all of which will be open during London Fashion Week Men’s.

London store End. 
Peter Cook

END OF THE LINE: British property group Shaftesbury has expanded its retail portfolio, opening the first London outpost for the online men’s wear store, End. Occupying 9,000 square feet on the corner of Broadwick and Marshall Streets, the two-story glass-fronted space offers a range of collections from labels including Off-White, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Nike and Adidas Consortiums. The store, which already has units in Newcastle, England, and Glasgow, Scotland, features modern furnishings such as marble staircases and glass showcases.
End is part of a strategy by Shaftesbury to position Soho as a go-to destination for emerging brands. The company has been offering reasonable rents in the neighborhood, which is a few minutes’ walk from Oxford and Regent Streets. Shaftesbury has also helped to install Supreme, Palace, Carhartt and Dukes Cupboard, a multibrand retailer, in the neighborhood. Samantha Bain-Mollison, head of retail at Shaftesbury, has been driving the strategy. She describes End as “influential, with a renowned selection of directional and globally sourced men’s wear.” — Hannah Connolly
End
59

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Retro Businessman

What’s the difference between a woebegone, Seventies-era businessman and a spring 2019 hipster? Less than you might think. Designers are serving up retro-tinged tailoring and suburban-dad sportswear that’s so uncool, it’s cool.

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Men’s Brands Breathe New Life Onto Bleecker Street

Bleecker Street has become a magnet for men’s wear.
The once-red hot stretch of the West Village stumbled badly over the past few years as nationally known names such as Marc Jacobs, Brunello Cucinelli and Ralph Lauren exited in the face of escalating rents and declining sales.
In fact, at its lowest point last year, there was a 25 percent vacancy rate for all of Bleecker from the East to West Villages, according to Chelsea Mullen, marketing director of the Skylight Group, which has been working to revitalize the street.
Joel Isaacs, founder and president of Isaacs and Co., a key real estate broker for the area, said a primary reason for the “revival” on Bleecker is that “rents have corrected and have gone from $ 600 a square foot to around $ 200.”
But it’s more than just rent that draws people to Bleecker. He said despite the empty storefronts, the street retains its charm and beauty. Residents of the area are very affluent, he said, and everyone — New Yorkers and visitors alike — like to stroll the street.
Slowly and without a lot of fanfare over the last year, many of those vacant storefronts have found new life as independent men’s brands — many of

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Men’s Wear Brand Fisher + Baker Targets Women for Minneapolis Event

Fisher + Baker is a men’s brand, but that didn’t stop the company from targeting women for an event at its Minneapolis headquarters earlier this month.
More than 80 women showed up at the Fisher + Baker studio for a Sip and Shop event, its first initiative targeted to females.
The event also served as a fund-raiser for Minnesota Wild’s Jason Zucker’s #Give16 Campaign, which was created by Zucker and his wife, Carly, to build the Zucker Family Suite and Broadcast Studio at the University of Minnesota Masonic Children’s Hospital.
Fisher + Baker donated $ 2,500 to the campaign from the event.
“Women are powerful consumers and are influential in the brand and style decisions of the men in their lives,” said Mike Arbeiter, Fisher + Baker’s chief executive officer and president. “By targeting female consumers as part of our brand engagement strategy, we are building awareness with a community that has a strong influence on men’s wardrobes.”
At the event, the women browsed through the brand’s classic styles of outerwear, sweaters and shirts while enjoying wine and cheese. Among the most popular items was the Lexington Vest, which retails for $ 298.
Arbeiter said the Sip and Shop event “was intended as a pilot concept that if

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Alexander McQueen Missing From Paris Men’s Week

SHOW BUSINESS: Big acts missing from the official schedule of Paris Men’s Week in January will include Alexander McQueen. The house plans to switch to a series of intimate events as its new presentation format, WWD has learned. The first will take place in London in May for the fall 2019 season. “Intrinsically connected to the bespoke tailoring heritage of Alexander McQueen men’s wear, these events will be central to the evolution of the house’s commitment to the championing of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation,” the brand said. The house moved to showing in Paris in June 2017 after having shown by appointment in Milan and London in previous seasons.
As expected, Lanvin, which recently parted ways with its men’s creative director Lucas Ossendrijver, is also missing from the lineup, according to the Chambre Syndicale which released its provisional schedule for the week on Friday.
Maison Margiela will also sit out the Paris men’s shows this season as it undergoes a strategic review under chief executive officer Riccardo Bellini, who joined the company in March. The house is believed to be aligning its men’s ready-to-wear collection more closely with its women’s line and Artisanal couture collection. Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano oversees

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EXCLUSIVE: Moschino to Host Men’s 2019 Show in Rome

MILAN — Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott is ready to take Rome, WWD has learned.
The Italian brand will show its men’s fall 2019 and its women’s pre-fall 2019 collections with a special runway event to be hosted the night of Jan. 8 in the Italian capital.
“I have chosen to show the collection in Rome at the historic Cinecittà studios as the show is an homage to the great Federico Fellini who filmed some of his most iconic films there,” Scott said.
“I’ve taken inspiration from his body of work and the amazing characters he has created from the films ‘Roma,’ ‘La Dolce Vita,’ ‘Satyricon,’ ‘8 1/2’ and ‘Casanova,’ to name a few.”
Scott is not the first international designer to choose Cinecittà as the set of his show. In December 2015, Karl Lagerfeld hosted the Chanel Métiers d’Art fall 2015 runway show at the Roman studios, where he recreated the streets of Paris.
The Moschino runway show will coincide with the Florentine men’s trade show Pitti Immagine Uomo, which opens the same day and ends on Dec. 11.
Previously, Scott has shown his men’s collections for the Moschino brand in London, Los Angeles and Milan.

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FC 100: Ranking the best men’s soccer players and managers

Our experts have voted on the best 100 players and managers in men’s soccer for 2018. Here’s the list.
www.espn.com – TOP
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Another Change Hits Italy’s Men’s Brands as Corneliani CEO Exits

MILAN — Marking yet another change within Italy’s men’s wear industry, Corneliani SpA chief executive officer Paolo Roviera has exited the storied company and has been succeeded by Luigi Ferrando.
In a brief statement, the Mantua-based firm said it “confirms the development goals of the Corneliani brand, in line with the strategies outlined in 2016.” The date refers to the acquisition by Bahrain-based Investcorp of a majority stake in Corneliani in June that year and signaling the fund’s increasing focus on luxury. The deal was meant at the time to be preparatory to an initial public offering, which has not taken place, and also overcome succession plans.
Ferrando joins Corneliani, known for its sleek tailoring and high-end quality products, from a different sector, as he leverages experience in furniture. His curriculum lists managerial positions at Unopiù and Arquati as well as lighting firms Targetti and Louis Poulsen.
Roviera arrived at Corneliani in September 2016, tasked with the expansion of the brand globally. He was previously ceo of Pal Zileri, controlled by Qatar-based Mayhoola.
Carlalberto Corneliani, who founded the company in 1958 with his late brother Claudio, was succeeded by Investcorp’s Hazem Ben-Gacem as chairman of Corneliani.
Investcorp, a leading provider and manager of alternative investment products, controls the Danish

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Valentino RTW and Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — A day after unveiling a new retail concept at its Ginza flagship store, Valentino staged its first runway show in Japan since the Eighties, with creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli also showing women’s wear and men’s wear together for the first time.
“In Japan and in the world today, I don’t think you feel such a difference between genders,” the designer said. “It’s a different way of working, but the philosophy behind men and women I think is the same. So the clothes are different, a different wardrobe, but the values are the same.”
Piccioli drew on classic couture detailing for women and tailoring for men, but reimagined them in a more modern way that is more appropriate for every day.
“I didn’t want to do streetwear or daywear generically,” he said. “I wanted to get the identity of the house, but going into the street.”
The result was a pre-fall collection that struck a perfect balance between red-carpet drama and practicality. Many of the most iconic codes of Valentino could be found yet refreshed. Flowers, such as those that adorned the dress Marisa Berenson was photographed in for Vogue in 1968, showed up as tiny buds adorning a knit dress with rows

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Ampersand Collective Brings Online Men’s Brands Into Retail Space

Some digitally native men’s brands have come together in a brick-and-mortar play for the holiday season.
Called Ampersand Collective, the 10-day pop-up on New York’s Lower East Side will feature gifts for guys from Stuart & Lau​​, a luggage and accessories brand; men’s outerwear from North & Mark​​; dress shoes from ​Wolf & Shepherd​​; ​hats and other haberdashery items from BM Franklin​​; grooming products from ​Fulton & Roark; timepieces from ​The 5th​​; socks and underwear from ​Nice Laundry​, and bikes from Tokyobike.
The idea for the shop was hatched by Stuart & Lau and North & Mark as a way to bring their brands to a different audience.

“I am proud to have brought together some of the best emerging men’s and gear brands together for this short-term residency,” said Matt Stuart, founder of Stuart & Lau. “As mostly digital native brands, this pop-up brings us off-line ​and offers the opportunity to showcase the brands in a physical location.”
Steve Cho, founder of North & Mark, added: “It’s very exciting to have a physical place where people can come to and try products they normally could only get online. Even in the digital age, people still need to touch and feel products before they purchase. The brands

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Burberry Men’s and Women’s Autumn/Winter 2019 Pre-Collection

Riccardo Tisci has just begun to make his mark on Burberry, so it’s no surprise that he’s traveling the path set out in September, doing women’s and men’s clothing for multiple generations and moments in the day.
Burberry’s chief creative officer said he wanted this collection to be a continuation of the story he began telling earlier this year. “I’m focusing on establishing our codes through archive prints, house colors and iconic outerwear, while cementing the new themes I set out last season.”
Tisci built on his beloved animal motifs: Gorilla faces stared out from T-shirts while unicorns galloped over a padded, silk shawl. A leopard collar curled around the neck of a Dalmatian print car coat while leather bridle straps, a nod to the old Burberry knight-on-horseback logo, adorned trenches and suit jackets. A faux patchwork shearling coat bowed to the house’s new anti-fur policy.
The new TB monogram, which Tisci unveiled earlier this year, was out in force, transformed into dark green camouflage for a hoodie, shorts and a cape, and in a more delicate iterations on scarves, satin skirts and silk blouses. The intertwined TB popped as a big logo on a punchy orange puffer vest, while a shadowy TB motif

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Celine to Join Paris Men’s Wear Calendar in January

FOR THE BOYS: The Paris men’s calendar just gained another heavy hitter: Celine will stage a show in January, mere months after creative director Hedi Slimane launched its men’s wear division during a coed show on Sept. 28, a spokeswoman for the brand said on Monday.
This follows the decision by Givenchy to switch back to the men’s wear fashion calendar for the fall 2019 with a presentation on Jan. 16, as reported.
Celine is in talks with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on an exact date for its display, which could also include a handful of women’s designs, though no decision has been taken, the spokeswoman said.
The move comes at a time when a growing number of brands are opting to present women’s and men’s wear at the same time. Maison Margiela staged its first coed show this season, while brands including Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann and Sonia Rykiel featured models of both sexes on the catwalk.
French conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is making a high-profile push into the booming men’s wear market with the launch of the category at Celine, an increased focus on men’s at Givenchy, as well as the appointment of

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B.U.M. Equipment Signs Men’s Sleepwear License

B.U.M. Equipment is expanding its reach.
The brand has signed a licensing deal with Vandale Industries for men’s loungewear and sleepwear starting with the fall 2019 season.
This brings the number of licenses for the young men’s and juniors brand to 12.
Stephen Wayne, chairman of B.U.M. Equipment LLC, who has owned the trademark since 1997, said: “The signing of Vandales will be a great addition to our product assortment offered in the U.S. market. It gives us another 10 to 15 additional sku’s [stockkeeping units] in the men’s area, which we relaunched last back-to-school with Urban Outfitters.”
Wayne, who acquired the trademark out of bankruptcy court 21 years ago, relaunched in 2017 on B.U.M.’s 30th anniversary. In its heyday in the early- to mid-2000s, it had some 35 licenses and sales of around $ 3 billion

Founded in 1986 as a street fashion brand, B.U.M. rode the popularity of that trend until 1996 when its then-owner, Chauvin International Ltd., saw a sales decline, which contributed to financial difficulties for the brand and a bankruptcy filing in 1996.
Wayne said he continues to seek additional licenses for the U.S. and overseas.
Vandale was established in 1982 as a women’s intimate apparel company and holds the license for Vince Camuto in men’s and Jessica Simpson, Izod and Lucky Brand in women’s. 

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Former Apparel Execs Aim to Make Most Comfortable Men’s Denim

Ryan Mark and Danny Kurtzman are calling Alday, their new men’s denim line, the most comfortable jeans on the market.
Alday is the brainchild of Mark and Kurtzman, who were struggling to find stretch denim for men that wasn’t constricting.
The cofounders and designers, who met while working at 3Point Distribution, a California company that manages the design and production on a variety of brands including the men’s wear line Ezekiel, struggled to find stretch denim that felt good, so they decided to introduce their own brand on Kickstarter.
“We couldn’t find a pair of denim that was both comfortable and still looked great, so we decided to create the most comfortable denim ourselves,” Mark said. “Our goal is not to just build another clothing brand, but to create a product that people truly enjoy. We chose Kickstarter to build up a core audience that is passionate about the product and wants to be involved in its growth.”
Alday denim is made with open knit technology that features four-way stretch, deep pockets for cell phones and hardware that helps denim hold up to daily wear and tear. This results in a lightweight denim that works for a variety of body types.
The proposition has resonated on

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2019

Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Vegas Date Overlap Causing Angst

Eeny, meeny, miny, moe — make your choice — New York Fashion Week: Men’s or MAGIC.
A shift in dates by Project, the flagship men’s wear trade show of the MAGIC Marketplace in Las Vegas, to a week earlier in February is forcing many brands and retailers to choose between the two events or, in the case of smaller designers, create extra samples in order to have a presence at both.
NYFW: Men’s will run Feb. 4 to 6 in New York City while Project will run Feb. 5 to 7 in Las Vegas.
Already Liberty Fairs and Agenda have had to leave their longtime home at the Sands Convention Center in order to align with Project’s dates and have secured a spot in downtown Las Vegas for their shows.
Sharifa Murdock, co-owner of Liberty, said she’s aiming to deliver a different experience this time. Liberty will be held at the World Market Center, which she described as an “open space with four big tents” that will allow Liberty a clean slate to “create what we want. We’re going to do something brand new,” she said.
That will include “a lot of activations” that will offer a “fresh” take on the trade show scene. “We

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