EXCLUSIVE: Moschino to Host Men’s 2019 Show in Rome

MILAN — Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott is ready to take Rome, WWD has learned.
The Italian brand will show its men’s fall 2019 and its women’s pre-fall 2019 collections with a special runway event to be hosted the night of Jan. 8 in the Italian capital.
“I have chosen to show the collection in Rome at the historic Cinecittà studios as the show is an homage to the great Federico Fellini who filmed some of his most iconic films there,” Scott said.
“I’ve taken inspiration from his body of work and the amazing characters he has created from the films ‘Roma,’ ‘La Dolce Vita,’ ‘Satyricon,’ ‘8 1/2’ and ‘Casanova,’ to name a few.”
Scott is not the first international designer to choose Cinecittà as the set of his show. In December 2015, Karl Lagerfeld hosted the Chanel Métiers d’Art fall 2015 runway show at the Roman studios, where he recreated the streets of Paris.
The Moschino runway show will coincide with the Florentine men’s trade show Pitti Immagine Uomo, which opens the same day and ends on Dec. 11.
Previously, Scott has shown his men’s collections for the Moschino brand in London, Los Angeles and Milan.

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FC 100: Ranking the best men’s soccer players and managers

Our experts have voted on the best 100 players and managers in men’s soccer for 2018. Here’s the list.
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Another Change Hits Italy’s Men’s Brands as Corneliani CEO Exits

MILAN — Marking yet another change within Italy’s men’s wear industry, Corneliani SpA chief executive officer Paolo Roviera has exited the storied company and has been succeeded by Luigi Ferrando.
In a brief statement, the Mantua-based firm said it “confirms the development goals of the Corneliani brand, in line with the strategies outlined in 2016.” The date refers to the acquisition by Bahrain-based Investcorp of a majority stake in Corneliani in June that year and signaling the fund’s increasing focus on luxury. The deal was meant at the time to be preparatory to an initial public offering, which has not taken place, and also overcome succession plans.
Ferrando joins Corneliani, known for its sleek tailoring and high-end quality products, from a different sector, as he leverages experience in furniture. His curriculum lists managerial positions at Unopiù and Arquati as well as lighting firms Targetti and Louis Poulsen.
Roviera arrived at Corneliani in September 2016, tasked with the expansion of the brand globally. He was previously ceo of Pal Zileri, controlled by Qatar-based Mayhoola.
Carlalberto Corneliani, who founded the company in 1958 with his late brother Claudio, was succeeded by Investcorp’s Hazem Ben-Gacem as chairman of Corneliani.
Investcorp, a leading provider and manager of alternative investment products, controls the Danish

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Valentino RTW and Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — A day after unveiling a new retail concept at its Ginza flagship store, Valentino staged its first runway show in Japan since the Eighties, with creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli also showing women’s wear and men’s wear together for the first time.
“In Japan and in the world today, I don’t think you feel such a difference between genders,” the designer said. “It’s a different way of working, but the philosophy behind men and women I think is the same. So the clothes are different, a different wardrobe, but the values are the same.”
Piccioli drew on classic couture detailing for women and tailoring for men, but reimagined them in a more modern way that is more appropriate for every day.
“I didn’t want to do streetwear or daywear generically,” he said. “I wanted to get the identity of the house, but going into the street.”
The result was a pre-fall collection that struck a perfect balance between red-carpet drama and practicality. Many of the most iconic codes of Valentino could be found yet refreshed. Flowers, such as those that adorned the dress Marisa Berenson was photographed in for Vogue in 1968, showed up as tiny buds adorning a knit dress with rows

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Ampersand Collective Brings Online Men’s Brands Into Retail Space

Some digitally native men’s brands have come together in a brick-and-mortar play for the holiday season.
Called Ampersand Collective, the 10-day pop-up on New York’s Lower East Side will feature gifts for guys from Stuart & Lau​​, a luggage and accessories brand; men’s outerwear from North & Mark​​; dress shoes from ​Wolf & Shepherd​​; ​hats and other haberdashery items from BM Franklin​​; grooming products from ​Fulton & Roark; timepieces from ​The 5th​​; socks and underwear from ​Nice Laundry​, and bikes from Tokyobike.
The idea for the shop was hatched by Stuart & Lau and North & Mark as a way to bring their brands to a different audience.

“I am proud to have brought together some of the best emerging men’s and gear brands together for this short-term residency,” said Matt Stuart, founder of Stuart & Lau. “As mostly digital native brands, this pop-up brings us off-line ​and offers the opportunity to showcase the brands in a physical location.”
Steve Cho, founder of North & Mark, added: “It’s very exciting to have a physical place where people can come to and try products they normally could only get online. Even in the digital age, people still need to touch and feel products before they purchase. The brands

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Burberry Men’s and Women’s Autumn/Winter 2019 Pre-Collection

Riccardo Tisci has just begun to make his mark on Burberry, so it’s no surprise that he’s traveling the path set out in September, doing women’s and men’s clothing for multiple generations and moments in the day.
Burberry’s chief creative officer said he wanted this collection to be a continuation of the story he began telling earlier this year. “I’m focusing on establishing our codes through archive prints, house colors and iconic outerwear, while cementing the new themes I set out last season.”
Tisci built on his beloved animal motifs: Gorilla faces stared out from T-shirts while unicorns galloped over a padded, silk shawl. A leopard collar curled around the neck of a Dalmatian print car coat while leather bridle straps, a nod to the old Burberry knight-on-horseback logo, adorned trenches and suit jackets. A faux patchwork shearling coat bowed to the house’s new anti-fur policy.
The new TB monogram, which Tisci unveiled earlier this year, was out in force, transformed into dark green camouflage for a hoodie, shorts and a cape, and in a more delicate iterations on scarves, satin skirts and silk blouses. The intertwined TB popped as a big logo on a punchy orange puffer vest, while a shadowy TB motif

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Celine to Join Paris Men’s Wear Calendar in January

FOR THE BOYS: The Paris men’s calendar just gained another heavy hitter: Celine will stage a show in January, mere months after creative director Hedi Slimane launched its men’s wear division during a coed show on Sept. 28, a spokeswoman for the brand said on Monday.
This follows the decision by Givenchy to switch back to the men’s wear fashion calendar for the fall 2019 with a presentation on Jan. 16, as reported.
Celine is in talks with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on an exact date for its display, which could also include a handful of women’s designs, though no decision has been taken, the spokeswoman said.
The move comes at a time when a growing number of brands are opting to present women’s and men’s wear at the same time. Maison Margiela staged its first coed show this season, while brands including Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann and Sonia Rykiel featured models of both sexes on the catwalk.
French conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is making a high-profile push into the booming men’s wear market with the launch of the category at Celine, an increased focus on men’s at Givenchy, as well as the appointment of

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B.U.M. Equipment Signs Men’s Sleepwear License

B.U.M. Equipment is expanding its reach.
The brand has signed a licensing deal with Vandale Industries for men’s loungewear and sleepwear starting with the fall 2019 season.
This brings the number of licenses for the young men’s and juniors brand to 12.
Stephen Wayne, chairman of B.U.M. Equipment LLC, who has owned the trademark since 1997, said: “The signing of Vandales will be a great addition to our product assortment offered in the U.S. market. It gives us another 10 to 15 additional sku’s [stockkeeping units] in the men’s area, which we relaunched last back-to-school with Urban Outfitters.”
Wayne, who acquired the trademark out of bankruptcy court 21 years ago, relaunched in 2017 on B.U.M.’s 30th anniversary. In its heyday in the early- to mid-2000s, it had some 35 licenses and sales of around $ 3 billion

Founded in 1986 as a street fashion brand, B.U.M. rode the popularity of that trend until 1996 when its then-owner, Chauvin International Ltd., saw a sales decline, which contributed to financial difficulties for the brand and a bankruptcy filing in 1996.
Wayne said he continues to seek additional licenses for the U.S. and overseas.
Vandale was established in 1982 as a women’s intimate apparel company and holds the license for Vince Camuto in men’s and Jessica Simpson, Izod and Lucky Brand in women’s. 

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Former Apparel Execs Aim to Make Most Comfortable Men’s Denim

Ryan Mark and Danny Kurtzman are calling Alday, their new men’s denim line, the most comfortable jeans on the market.
Alday is the brainchild of Mark and Kurtzman, who were struggling to find stretch denim for men that wasn’t constricting.
The cofounders and designers, who met while working at 3Point Distribution, a California company that manages the design and production on a variety of brands including the men’s wear line Ezekiel, struggled to find stretch denim that felt good, so they decided to introduce their own brand on Kickstarter.
“We couldn’t find a pair of denim that was both comfortable and still looked great, so we decided to create the most comfortable denim ourselves,” Mark said. “Our goal is not to just build another clothing brand, but to create a product that people truly enjoy. We chose Kickstarter to build up a core audience that is passionate about the product and wants to be involved in its growth.”
Alday denim is made with open knit technology that features four-way stretch, deep pockets for cell phones and hardware that helps denim hold up to daily wear and tear. This results in a lightweight denim that works for a variety of body types.
The proposition has resonated on

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2019

Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Vegas Date Overlap Causing Angst

Eeny, meeny, miny, moe — make your choice — New York Fashion Week: Men’s or MAGIC.
A shift in dates by Project, the flagship men’s wear trade show of the MAGIC Marketplace in Las Vegas, to a week earlier in February is forcing many brands and retailers to choose between the two events or, in the case of smaller designers, create extra samples in order to have a presence at both.
NYFW: Men’s will run Feb. 4 to 6 in New York City while Project will run Feb. 5 to 7 in Las Vegas.
Already Liberty Fairs and Agenda have had to leave their longtime home at the Sands Convention Center in order to align with Project’s dates and have secured a spot in downtown Las Vegas for their shows.
Sharifa Murdock, co-owner of Liberty, said she’s aiming to deliver a different experience this time. Liberty will be held at the World Market Center, which she described as an “open space with four big tents” that will allow Liberty a clean slate to “create what we want. We’re going to do something brand new,” she said.
That will include “a lot of activations” that will offer a “fresh” take on the trade show scene. “We

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Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Rabd Men’s Spring 2019

Name: Rabd
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.

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DKNY Licenses H. Best for Men’s Underwear

DKNY is diving into the lucrative men’s underwear market.
The brand, which is owned by G-III Apparel Group, has signed a license with H. Best Ltd. to develop men’s underwear and loungewear. The collection, which will hit better department and specialty stores for the holiday, will include cotton briefs, boxer briefs, crewneck tees and V-neck tees.

The DKNY men’s briefs by H. Best. 

“DKNY has a modern, confident and strong aesthetic, and consumers have always responded well to the brand’s approach to dressing men,” said Tom Speight, chief executive officer and president of H. Best. “Each garment has technical attributes that are perfect for today’s on-the-go guy: comfortable, tagless waistbands, and antimicrobial attributes among other experience-enhancing qualities.”
Jeff Goldfarb, executive vice president of G-III Apparel, said: “Building this category is a core element in our growth strategy for the brand, and we look forward to partnering with them as we work together to launch this new collection for DKNY.”
The $ 2.4 billion New York-based G-III purchased Donna Karan International, parent of the DKNY label, from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton for $ 650 million at the end of 2016. The men’s collection was reintroduced to the market last April after being absent since the fall of 2015.
H.

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EXCLUSIVE: L’Exception Adds Private Label Men’s Line

PARIS — L’Exception, the Paris-based online retailer dedicated to French labels, is launching a direct-to-consumer private label men’s line.
The idea, said founder Régis Pennel, is not to go into competition with the brands they sell but to present a complementary line of basics. The preppy line includes parkas, roll necks in merino wool, old-school cardigans and flannel shirts, with prices going from 35 euros for a T-shirt to 120 euros for a denim jacket.

A denim jacket from the line. 
Courtesy

Designing the line is Rémi de Laquintane, founder of Laquintane and cofounder of Parisian men’s wear label Éditions MR, both of which are carried by L’Exception. Lewis Lazar and Christopher Moore of French group the Oracle Sisters, which channels a Seventies vibe, are cited as the muses of the collection.
Launching on Oct. 11, the line will be sold exclusively on the retailer’s site and in a dedicated corner at its brick-and-mortar store in the Forum des Halles shopping center, with regular drops and a focus on European materials and production. The details of the supply chain will be shared on the site.
Pennel described the line as being very Parisian in style — “classic with a twist.”
“We thought more about core products for our

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Y/Project to Unveil Men’s Fall Collection at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Y/Project will show its men’s fall 2019 collection in Florence as guest brand of the next edition of international men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 8 to 11.
Y/Project’s collections are designed by Glenn Martens, who succeeded the brand’s founder Yohan Serfaty as creative director in 2013. Serfaty passed away that year.
Under the creative direction of Martens, the Paris-based label won the ANDAM Grand Prize award in 2017 and consolidated its presence in the most relevant department stores in the world, including Dover Street Market, Barneys, Selfridges, Lane Crawford and Jeffrey.
“Glenn Martens created for Y/Project a new aesthetic language, based on contradictions,” said Pitti Immagine communication and events director Lapo Cianchi. “Elegance is juxtaposed with eclectic and extravagant references, streetwear is enriched with historic details and exaggerated couture touches. The brand offers a highly conceptual design in line with the most advances projects in the market and Martens express a witty sense of humor and has a very personal fashion vision, based on freedom, experimentation and fun, without boundaries.”
Last June, Martens unveiled in Milan his capsule collection for the Diesel Red Tag label. Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli were the latest guests designer at Pitti Uomo last June.

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Michael Kors Brings Pesaresi on Board to Helm Men’s Division

Michael Kors Holdings Limited has named Andrea Pesaresi president of Michael Kors Men’s, effective Oct. 15.
He succeeds Don Witkowski, who passed away in June, and will report to John D. Idol, chairman and chief executive officer.
Pesaresi was most recently ceo of Philippe Model, but prior to that, he spent 25 years at Ermenegildo Zegna, where his most recent role was brand director of Z Zegna and Licensing, a post that encompassed product development, brand strategy, international expansion and marketing. Pesaresi joined Philippe Model, an Italian sneaker brand, at the end of 2016.
“Andrea has been in the industry for 30 years and comes to us with extensive knowledge of the evolving luxury men’s marketplace,” Idol said. “Andrea will provide the necessary leadership to enable us to achieve our goal of developing the Michael Kors men’s wear business to $ 1 billion in revenue.”
The company declined to say how large the men’s business is today, but in the first-quarter earnings call in early August, Idol said that while men’s is “still small to the total company, it continues to grow.” He cited strength in logo sportswear “for Father’s Day gifting, particularly the Greenwich polo and our knit logo baseball jacket,” along with “refined pieces such

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Sanyo Partnering With Apolis Men’s Brand

Apolis, a socially conscious men’s brand, has inked a deal with Sanyo Shokai to expand the label’s presence in Japan as well as its product offering.
Sanyo will act as a partner, exclusive distributor and licensor for the brand and will oversee production and distribution starting with the spring/summer 2019 season.
As part of the deal, the Apolis e-commerce site will be relaunched, a flagship store will open in Tokyo, the brand will add women’s wear and its men’s wear offering will be expanded.
Creative director Raan Parton will partner with the Sanyo team to design the product, which will be manufactured in the Japanese company’s factories in that country along with Apolis’ network of global artisans rounding out the production.
Collections will be produced globally and will continue to adhere to Apolis’ sustainable standards and environmental conscientiousness. The brand was certified as a B Impact Corporation in 2012, a designation for businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose.
Isao Iwata, president, representative director and chief operating officer of Sanyo, called Apolis “an early adopter of sustainable practices and socially aware production. Sanyo has also been a company with a

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John Elliott Men’s and Women’s Spring 2019

John Elliott brought a healthy dose of California to New York City for his spring show, taking over a skate park on the Hudson River to drive home the inspiration for the season: Los Angeles. With the 90-plus-degree heat and blazing sun, it was L.A. at its most extreme.
The designer did his best to make attendees comfortable on their colorful milk-crate seats by providing cold water or juice and portable fans. But most faces were shiny with sweat by the time his celebrity guests arrived: LeBron James and Justin Bieber, the latter arriving hand-in-hand with fiancée Hailey Baldwin and grooving to the soundtrack.
Elliott considered his hometown “the most authoritative story” he could tell this season. “Not the stereotypical, glitzy, Hollywood L.A.,” he noted, “but the real neighborhoods — that’s my truth.”
It shone through in its casual vibe and the seamless blend of streetwear and athletic references. Elliott also showed a new maturity by offering up a blend of technical materials and varying silhouettes that took inspiration from different eras to create a never-ending youthful vibe.
His L.A. inspiration was obvious in the slightly oversize shorts and jackets that he emblazoned with a colorful bougainvillea print — a bit out of character

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Christopher Bates to Sell Men’s Collection to Nordstrom in Canada

Canadian men’s designer Christopher Bates will be celebrating his 10th anniversary with a runway show Tuesday night during Toronto Fashion Week at the same time he reveals a deal with Nordstrom as the brand’s exclusive department store partner in Canada.
“Spring/summer 2019 is by far one of my most technically advanced collections and having it launch with such an iconic retailer as Nordstrom is a dream come true,” said Bates.
The spring collection is inspired by vintage tennis and cycling wear and includes a focus on technical fabrics and modern tailoring. Each piece is created with luxury textiles from Italy and include 3-D textured bomber jackets, jersey travel blazers, colorful knitwear and lightweight jackets and coats.
In addition to ready-to-wear, Bates has a bespoke business, working with a master tailor in Toronto to produce suits, tuxedos, jackets and shirts. For five seasons, Bates has partnered with Canadian specialty retailer Harry Rosen on a shoe collection, which will be rolling out from four to 10 stores next year, and he is creating a line of sneakers in collaboration with MTV that will launch next month. He also produces a line of unisex eyewear. He was tapped to create the uniforms for Air Canada that some

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What to Watch: Men’s Market Grows Although Changes Abound

Men’s wear continues to make strides as guys from all walks of life prove that it’s not only women that care how they look.
From the red-hot streetwear market to suits with a slim modern fit — and technical attributes in everything — men continue to upgrade their wardrobes to keep up with the latest trends.
And it’s showing in the numbers.
Men’s wear is now estimated to represent 40 percent of the global apparel market and continues to grow. According to Euromonitor International, global sales of men’s wear increased 3.7 percent to $ 419 billion in 2017, outpacing women’s, which rose 3.4 percent to $ 643 billion.
In the U.S., sales hit $ 85 billion last year and are on track to rise 1.1 percent to over $ 86 billion this year, Euromonitor projected.
Other firms’ figures bear that out as well. According to Statista, retail sales of the men’s market in the U.S. were $ 62.1 billion in 2013 and are projected to hit nearly $ 75 billion this year.
And NPD Group said for the six months ended June 2018, total men’s apparel sales rose 3 percent to $ 29 billion with active bottoms and knit shirts gaining in popularity while dress shirts and woven shirts declined. For the second

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Flagpole Enters Men’s Swim

Megan Balch and Jaime Barker, who cofounded Flagpole in 2013, are known for their sporty, brightly colored women’s swimwear sold at retailers including Shopbop and Barneys New York, but they always had the men’s category in mind.
“Flagpole is the name of the beach we grew up on,” said Balch. “But before we even had sketches or drawings, we always knew we wanted to have a unisex name to accommodate for men’s.”
According to Balch, they’ve spent two years working on the men’s collection, which includes two silhouettes: the Luke short, a hybrid swim and travel short; and the Dave trunk, a classic swimsuit. The Luke short is made from a quick-drying fabric with pockets and an interior adjustable drawstring. They retail for $ 225. The Dave trunk has a slim fit and is also made from a quick-drying fabric but has an elastic waistband. It retails for $ 185.
“Since our launch, a lot of men have reached out saying that they resonate with our clean, modern and functional aesthetic,” said Balch. “What they wanted boiled down to two things: a classic cut and ultimate comfort.”
They are opting for a direct-to-consumer distribution with men’s in order to get feedback from consumers.
“It’s hard to get

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Chanel Creating First Men’s Makeup Line

BOY MAKEUP: Diving into the swelling men’s grooming trend, Chanel is launching its first makeup line for guys, a three-product range, starting in South Korea on Sept. 1.
The collection includes a tinted fluid, coming in four colors; a matte moisturizing lip balm, and four shades of eyebrow pencil.
Chanel’s Boy division, which already counts products such as handbags and a perfume, is named after Boy Capel, the lover and muse of Gabrielle Chanel.
“Just as Gabrielle Chanel borrowed elements from the men’s wardrobe to dress women, Chanel draws inspiration from the women’s world to write the vocabulary of a new personal aesthetic for men,” the company said in a statement. “Lines, colors, attitudes, gestures….There is no absolutely feminine or masculine prerequisite: Style alone defines the person we wish to be.
“By creating Boy de Chanel, its first makeup line for men, Chanel reaffirms the ever-changing codes of an unchanging vision: Beauty is not a matter of gender, it is a matter of style.”
The collection will be rolled out to the rest of the world in November on the house’s e-commerce platforms and in January 2019 in Chanel’s boutiques.

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Men’s Continues to Gain Ground as Sales Increase

LAS VEGAS — Men’s wear represents 40 percent of the global apparel market and continues to grow both in popularity and penetration for most retailers. With that experience as the backdrop, merchants shopping the shows here earlier this week were in upbeat spirits as they scoured the aisles for the latest trend-right product to fuel that men’s wear momentum heading into next year.
Christine Wu, senior trend analyst for the Doneger Group, said the men’s wear market is projected to increase to $ 33 billion in sales by 2020, up 14 percent from $ 29 billion in 2015, the most recent figure available from Euromonitor International. Among the most popular categories are activewear-inspired pieces that offer performance and technology attributes, as well as streetwear, both at the designer and more democratically priced level.
Patty Leto, senior vice president of merchandising for Doneger, said that in order to sustain the strong showing, retailers have to reach men on their own terms and provide a “targeted and more personal approach to the assortment.” This will require a “necessary recalibration” of the business.
But because men’s wear doesn’t move that quickly, that recalibration will boil down to subtle updates of the current trends, notably nostalgia, outdoor lifestyle and

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Movers and Shakers in the Men’s E-commerce Space

Don’t tell these companies that men don’t shop online.
There are now a slew of men’s wear-focused e-tailers offering everything from designer clothing to socks, underwear to streetwear. While some of these businesses have become household names and others are still flying under the radar, all of them have managed to make their mark. They’ve also attracted some big bucks from outside investors, a key indicator that they’re doing something right.
Here, a closer look at some of the major players and their businesses.
Black Tux
Primary business: Tuxedo and suit rentals
Backstory: The Los Angeles-based company was founded in 2013 by longtime friends Andrew Blackmon and Patrick Coyne, who saw an opportunity to improve the traditional tuxedo and suit rental process. Often referred to as the Rent the Runway for guys, the Black Tux has raised $ 60 million in funding since it started, the most recent round coming in March when TZP Group — along with Stripes Group, Menlo Ventures and Raine Ventures — came through with $ 30 million the company said it would use to add more warehouse space. A facility opened in Pennsylvania earlier this year.
Reach: In addition to its own e-commerce site and six of its own showrooms, the company

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Men’s Spring 2019: Flying Colors

The men’s collections for spring skew young, vibrant — and very spiffy. A plethora of tailored elements mingle with explosive color and touches of Nineties raver.

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Swimwear & Boardshort Clearance Up To 50% Off at SportChek! Offer ends 8/9/18. Shop Now!

Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Swimwear & Boardshort Clearance Up To 50% Off*. *Our original price. Select brands and styles. Not all clearance priced items and price points available at all locations. Selection may vary by location. Order must be completed by August 9, 2018 to qualify.
Code: No code required
Begin: 2018-07-31 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-08-09 00:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Swimwear & Boardshort Clearance Up To 50% Off at SportChek! Offer ends 8/9/18. Shop Now!

Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Swimwear & Boardshort Clearance Up To 50% Off*. *Our original price. Select brands and styles. Not all clearance priced items and price points available at all locations. Selection may vary by location. Order must be completed by August 9, 2018 to qualify.
Code: No code required
Begin: 2018-07-31 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-08-09 00:00:00
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Brioni Changes, So Does Italy’s Men’s Wear Industry

MILAN — “Brioni is a work in progress, I underline the word progress,” said Jean-François Palus, Kering Group’s managing director, during a call with analysts on Thursday, to discuss first-half results of the Italian men’s wear brand’s parent company. And on Friday, the company revealed it was once again parting ways with its creative director — this time Nina-Maria Nitsche — after only one year. Brioni chief executive officer Fabrizio Malverdi was not available for comment.
What happened with Nitsche is open to interpretation. Kering does not break out sales for its smaller brands, but it was reported that the “other luxury houses” division posted a 34.7 percent increase in sales to 534 million euros in the second quarter, despite continued losses at Brioni. But Jean-Marc Duplaix, Kering’s chief financial officer, said during the call that “Brioni’s top line is on track to gradually better absorb its fixed costs.”
Analysts are skeptical Kering would be looking to sell Brioni now, a suggestion confirmed by Palus, who said the group does “not intend to dispose of any other brands of our current portfolio.” Kering, then called PPR, acquired Brioni in 2011 from the descendants of the company’s founders, Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini.
A successor

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Get Smart

Dressing up again — in easy, laid-back tailoring — was a key message of the men’s shows, and a riposte to the streetwear juggernaut.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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Top Men’s Trends for Spring 2019

First came dad sneakers — and now the so-uncool-they’re-cool jeans to match.

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Theory Men’s Spring 2019

Well-known for his take on creating timeless wardrobe pieces with a cool minimalistic twist, Theory’s Martin Andersson’s spring collection keeps building on the same principles it has for the few past seasons: mobility and innovation. 
“We asked ourselves, who is the Theory guy, and concluded that he’s into travel,” Andersson said at the brand’s spring presentation.
A capsule collection focusing on the idea of mobility and travel — packable seam-sealed blazers, travel Mac coats, water-resistant shirts and even a tracksuit — were all designed to be worn from the office straight to the airport.
Andersson has a knack for giving wardrobe staples a cool, minimalist élan via color and cut. His spring palette spanned forest greens, navy, khaki and bright pops of electric yellow and pink that were inspired from Dan Flavin’s light installations at Dia: Beacon.
A standout were the khaki pieces, such as khaki chinos with a contrast waistband paired with a bright pink sweater — a perfect blend of casual and sporty.

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s Inspirations

As the men’s show season enters its final lap, New York designers are prepared to embrace classic tailoring, the Mayan Riviera, the cool skater boy and even state fairs.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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A Fight for Men’s Rights, in California Courts

Ladies’ nights, career seminars and paternity fraud are all on the docket.
NYT > Fashion & Style

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Ted Baker to Introduce Men’s Underwear, Lounge, Sleep

Ted Baker is entering the innerwear category.
The apparel company, which is based in London, has signed a five-year licensing agreement with Delta Galil to develop, produce and distribute men’s innerwear.
“I am delighted to collaborate with Delta Galil as Ted’s exclusive underwear and loungewear partner,” said Ricky Green, global wholesale director at Ted Baker. “We’re excited to introduce the collection to all markets and work together closely to develop the products.”
The collection will span men’s underwear, loungewear and thermal base layers and pajama sets and will launch in spring 2019.
“Ted Baker is well-known for its high-quality fabrics and distinctive designs, and we are very excited to partner with the brand and expand it into new categories,” said Isaac Dabah, chief executive officer of Delta Galil. “This partnership represents a significant opportunity for Delta Galil to grow its global portfolio of premium brands, as Ted Baker’s elevated apparel resonates with men across the world.”
Ted Baker currently operates 21 other licensing agreements that include fragrance, homewares and tailoring.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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The Cons and Pros of Shrunken NYFW: Men’s

Good riddance July. Now American men’s designers can only hope things get better next June.
Todd Snyder wrapped up the spring 2019 edition of New York Fashion Week: Men’s on Wednesday night with an upbeat show that embraced America — and proved to be one of the handful of shows that could legitimately compete with those in London, Florence, Milan or Paris. Otherwise, the three-day affair continued to be devoid of most of American fashion’s major names and was a haphazard mix of shows and presentations that often lacked energy, generated little buzz and continued to raise questions over where New York fits into the men’s calendar.
But the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the organizer, is hoping to resuscitate things next summer when it moves the show dates to align with women’s resort in early June — before the London men’s shows start.
Holding the men’s and women’s shows at the same time worked well for the men’s brands in February when the CFDA staged a successful 10-day dual-gender fashion week, with the men’s-only or men’s-heavy brands kicking off the week. That’s the plan for this coming February as well.
And although the June women’s resort shows are not as established as

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Independents’ Day: Canada’s Harry Rosen Has Owned the Men’s Market for Decades

TORONTO — Harry Rosen has a lock on the Canadian men’s wear market, but that hold hasn’t come without a lot of hard work.
The company was founded in 1954 by Harry and his brother Lou Rosen in a small storefront in Toronto to provide made-to-measure suits for men. The firm has since grown into a 300 million Canadian dollar ($ 228.3 million), 18-store chain with locations in the seven largest cities around the country and some 1,000 employees.
Although Harry stepped back from the day-to-day operation of the business in 2005, he still serves as an ambassador, often stopping by one of the stores to chat with customers. But he left the company in good hands: as chief executive officer since 2000, his son Larry Rosen has built on his father’s legacy. Waiting in the wings is Ian Rosen, Larry’s son, who is joining the family business this summer to oversee its digital marketing initiatives, and at the same time, ensure the eventual transition to the next generation will be seamless.
But Harry Rosen has also branched out beyond its core business, teaming up with Ermenegildo Zegna to open flagship stores for the luxury Italian label in Canada. In August, a 3,000-square-foot Zegna

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Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2019

Models running wind sprints and stretching in colorful soccer gear on the runway prior to the show created the ideal introduction for Willy Chavarria’s new collaboration with Danish soccer brand Hummel.
The collection was defined by the use of bright colors and long boxy silhouettes in shorts and tops that paid homage to the designer’s main line. His creative use of the Hummel logo and soccer uniform staples such as numbers and insignias turned them into streetwear-infused details.
The collaboration will also serve to offer sponsorships to New York City soccer players with documented and undocumented U.S. citizens offering support to immigrants, another key element of this season for Chavarria.
His spin on soccerwear served as part one of a two-part spring collection.
For his main line, Chavarria said he pulled from Latino culture of the early Aughts on the East and West Coasts. The “baggy silhouettes” from Venice and Culver City were juxtaposed with the “long rise pants tucked into Timberlands” that defined the urban landscape in the Bronx and Harlem in that era.
The nostalgia kicked into high gear with Chavarria’s take on Polo Sport references: upside-down American flags, yellow trenchcoats and the word America printed upside down on the front of sweatshirts.
There was also

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Industry Adapts to Shifting Milan Men’s Fashion Week

MILAN — A shrinking show calendar, currency volatility and macro economic issues at the tail end of a period of local political instability following Italy’s general elections were only some of the concerns weighing on executives on the eve of Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
But on the upside, business is chugging along steadily. Revenues generated by the fashion sector last year grew 2.5 percent to 64.8 billion euros, and exports rose 4.3 percent to 50 billion euros, according to Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s Fashion Economic Trends report issued in May. The first half is expected to show 1.5 percent growth in sales compared with the same period last year. Last week, the updated Altagamma Worldwide Market Monitor and Bain & Co. study painted a pretty picture, as the global personal luxury goods industry is expected to grow 6 to 8 percent at constant exchange compared with the 5 percent growth forecast last October for 2018.
“Everyone is hoping to see a modicum of stability, which would allow us to set goals in the medium-term, invest in three-year plans without this sense of anxiety hovering over us,” said Paolo Roviera, chief executive officer of Corneliani. Roviera admitted that business had been affected in the first

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Public School to Participate in NYFW: Men’s

Public School will be participating in New York Fashion Week: Men’s — but exactly what the brand is planning to do is being kept under wraps.
On Friday, the New York-based men’s and women’s label founded by Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne sent out an invite to an event Wednesday night in TriBeCa. The invitation, which also had the branding for Moët & Chandon, read: “A piece of ground that belonged to them, on which they could plant their feet, permanency.” The designers had created special bottles for the spirits brand that were unveiled during New York Fashion Week last September.
A spokesman for the company declined to provide further details on Wednesday’s event.
In December, the designers said they would be taking a break from showing their collection during NYFW in February as “the company is in the midst of stepping away from the traditional industry format and launching a new direct-to-consumer concept.” The company said details would be shared in advance of the launch later this year and that the brand would be “refining” its product assortment, “delivery cadence,” and restructuring it organization.
According to retailers who had carried the line, the final Public School wholesale collection was shipped for spring.

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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IMG Launches Men’s Division in Milan

MILAN — And then IMG Models created the man.
The Italian branch of the international model agency has launched a men’s division, elevating IMG Models as global agency offering both men’s and women’s representation services in all of its offices, located in key cities as New York, Los Angeles, London, Sydney and Paris, along with Milan.
Established in April — following the launch in Paris just a few months before — the opening of the men’s division in Italy reflects the company’s investment in the European market and it’s aimed to better serve regional clients and partners with localized support.
“We definitely opened some years late, but the fact is IMG’s men’s division reopened four years ago and we launched New York first, through a small staff, to see if there were the premises to do well there, which is still the most important market in terms of volume,” said Andrea Cairo, managing director of IMG Models Italy.
Cairo explained that after New York, the first European men’s division debuted in London, and the company preferred to consolidate its position in those two locations “and understand if a presence was necessary in Italy and France, both for models and our clients.”
Another delaying aspect was

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Cartoon Network to Sponsor NYFW: Men’s

The Council of Fashion Designers of America is forging a relationship with Cartoon Network.
The network will provide support for the shows and the CFDA connected the company with Ryohei Kawanishi of Landlord, who will design a capsule collection based on “Adventure Time,” a popular animated series.
Instead of just producing a one-off capsule collection, Kawanishi said he has also integrated themes from the series into his main line, which will show during NYFW: Men’s on July 9.
“I wanted to make a mental connection with what’s going on in the cartoons,” said Kawanishi, who usually designs based on distinct themes ranging from Rastafarianism to southern hip-hop.
Cartoon Network has played in the fashion space before via collaborations with brands including Moschino, Champion and Rook, but Pete Yoder, vice president of Cartoon Network Enterprises, North America, said these collaborations have become a bigger focus for the company, which is why it has partnered with the CFDA.
“It’s a huge priority for us because we want to address our fan base with the more traditional licensed product that’s more accessible, but we also want to give our super fans something special that they can call their own,” Yoder said. “Partnering with the CFDA is a great way to gain access to this

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Paris Men’s Week: Ones to Watch

Cmmn Swdn, Boramy Viguier and GEYM figure among a selection of rising brands on the week’s official men’s calendar and presentation lineup. And Davide Marello, the former creative director of Boglioli, will unveil his latest project, Davi, which is heavy on printed shirts, in Paris on Thursday.
Undercover, which presented its fall 2018 men’s collection in one of the guests spots at Pitti Uomo in January, will also present on the official men’s calendar for the first time, along with Alyx, which was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2016. Check out a selection of the names set to present.

A shoe from the Cmmn brand. 
Dominique MAITRE

Cmmn Swdn
For their debut show on the official Paris Men’s Week calendar, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund are doing their bit to protest against the mountain of waste the fashion industry is sitting on; to slow things down again and get back to the roots of fashion.
The show is scheduled to take place Tuesday at the Les Ateliers, the École nationale supérieure de création industrielle, a French design school located in Paris’ 11th arrondissement.
Founded in 2012 in Malmo, Sweden, Cmmn Swdn is based between Sweden and London where it showed for six seasons before moving to present in

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Rochas Names Federico Curradi to Head Men’s Fashion

Rochas has named a new creative director for its men’s wear activity, which it put on hold last year after only two seasons.
The Interparfums-owned fashion house said Italian designer Federico Curradi will be charged with bringing “a new attitude” to Rochas men’s wear going forward. The brand is expected to relaunch in January 2019.
“I am sure Rochas can find its own place in the men’s wear industry and Federico has the talent to bring Rochas to a next level,” stated Interparfums Group and Rochas chief executive officer Philippe Benacin.
Curradi, a native of Florence, launched his own men’s wear label, which shows in Milan, in January 2016 at Pitti Uomo. The designer, who lives in the Florentine countryside, is also creative director of outerwear specialist Peuterey. Born in Florence in 1975, after living in New York for several years he moved back to Italy, first working at Ermanno Daelli, then as head of the men’s styling office at Ermanno Scervino and later becoming head of the men’s collection of Roberto Cavalli in 2005. A year later, he began working at Iceberg on the company’s men’s wear as a consultant. He was also Iceberg’s first men’s wear creative director, succeeded by James

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Stalvey to Launch Men’s Accessories

A favorite accessory brand of Beyoncé and Gigi Hadid is going to be available for men.
Stalvey, an exotic skin accessories collection created by Jason Stalvey and popular with many female celebrities, will launch its first men’s collection for fall.
The inaugural lineup, which will include duffels, backpacks, caps and small leather goods, will be exclusive to Moda Operandi, an upscale e-commerce site that just expanded into men’s wear this month.
Stalvey, who has a background in science and medicine, launched his women’s line with Barneys New York in the fall of 2014, and it’s currently offered there as well as at The Webster, Harrods, Lane Crawford and other upscale retailers.
But while he’s made his mark in women’s wear, it’s actually men’s where he got his start.
Stalvey said that while his background wasn’t in fashion, he got into the business after being unable to find an alligator skin duffel bag that fit his needs. “I thought, it can’t be that hard,” he said. “Well, it was that hard.” But he stuck with it, found artisans in the U.S. and Italy that were able to work with exotic skins, and eventually created what he believed to be the perfect duffel. That led to him

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Katharine Hamnett Men’s Spring 2019

The designer worked a mix of street, tailored clothing and some old favorites into this fully organic and sustainable collection. One of fashion’s sustainable clothing pioneers — she was demanding organic cotton long before most — her voice has a new resonance in this age of sustainability.
She’s even brought back her 1983 “Choose Life” slogan, which she plastered on a hoodie for spring. “The anti-abortion lobby nicked it — and now we’re nicking it back,” said Hamnett, who originally came up with the slogan as an antibattle, no-nukes cry in the Thatcher-ite era. A pink sweatshirt with the slogan “No More Fashion Victims” was another archive revival.
Hamnett’s mix included a magnified molecule pattern by the artist Jeffrey Pine on cotton denim trousers, boxy silk shirts and logo sweatshirts. She also made breezy button-front shirts using organic cotton muslin from Switzerland, and was particularly proud of the softness of the fabric.
The designer worked organic linen into a roomy baby blue Zoot suit and brought back a pair of faded flared jeans, the streetwear of the Seventies.

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Simon Porte Jacquemus on Showing Men’s in Marseille

PARIS — “Don’t wear heels,” said Simon Porte Jacquemus, who later today will show his first men’s collection on a secluded beach in one of the hidden bays of the Calanques, the rocky inlets around Marseille and nearby Cassis in the South of France. For the designer, who likes to go swimming in the remote spot, it’s “one of the best places on earth.”
“It’s a dream. You don’t feel like you’re in Marseille anymore. It feels like Greece, it’s so spectacular, with the rocks and the azure waters,” he said.
So what about the seating? “Blue towels. The set will be so pure: just blue towels on a huge beach,” added Jacquemus.
As the latest designer to stage an event in the South of France, following Louis Vuitton and Gucci’s recent cruise shows in Saint-Paul de Vence and Arles, respectively, the maverick talent, whose sun-soaked universe is deeply inspired by his upbringing in Provence, is cognizant that setting a show some 500 miles from Paris, the day after Europe’s men’s season wraps, is a tad cheeky. But — even if it was a logistical nightmare securing access to the remote site — he wouldn’t have it any other way.
Besides, Jacquemus has never

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Industry Adapts to Shifting Milan Men’s Fashion Week

MILAN — A shrinking show calendar, currency volatility and macro economic issues at the tail end of a period of local political instability following Italy’s general elections were only some of the concerns weighing on executives on the eve of Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
But on the upside, business is chugging along steadily. Revenues generated by the fashion sector last year grew 2.5 percent to 64.8 billion euros, and exports rose 4.3 percent to 50 billion euros, according to Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s Fashion Economic Trends report issued in May. The first half is expected to show 1.5 percent growth in sales compared with the same period last year. Last week, the updated Altagamma Worldwide Market Monitor and Bain & Co. study painted a pretty picture, as the global personal luxury goods industry is expected to grow 6 to 8 percent at constant exchange compared with the 5 percent growth forecast last October for 2018.
“Everyone is hoping to see a modicum of stability, which would allow us to set goals in the medium-term, invest in three-year plans without this sense of anxiety hovering over us,” said Paolo Roviera, chief executive officer of Corneliani. Roviera admitted that business had been affected in the first

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Hermès Men’s Spring 2019

Véronique Nichanian showed a younger, sexier side to the Hermès man.
The designer continued with the athletic references, her take on the elevated lifestyle. The tailored jogging pant added to the man-on-the-move mood, revisited in different colors including light yellows blended with a sharply tailored blazer. The tennis-style short shorts added to the retro athletic undertone of the collection.
The on-trend three-button leather suit in a light shade of stone, worn without a shirt, showed a new sensuality.
Adding to details like the prints and the draping of the clothing, the collection’s color palette, with the combination of shades moving from saturated tones to pastels, was beautiful.
An enlarged camouflage print on a sweatshirt had a painterly Cubist feel, with hippy-luxe tie-dye bags playing off the collection’s bright colors.
Also standout were the silky blousons with side zippers, at times gathered at the back, and a look combining a bottle-green track pant with a bold blue and white side stripe and a super-thin graphic sweater with a zipper.
The elegant fine knits with ripple accents or python effects were  dreamy in a collection that exuded pure luxe fashion.

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Sneakers Rule Men’s Fashion. Even Ugly Sneakers

This past week’s men’s fashion shows in Milan have underlined the sneaker’s continued reign in menswear.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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Rochas Names Federico Curradi to Head Men’s Fashion

Rochas has named a new creative director for its men’s wear activity, which it put on hold last year after only two seasons.
The Interparfums-owned fashion house said Italian designer Federico Curradi will be charged with bringing “a new attitude” to Rochas men’s wear going forward. The brand is expected to relaunch in January 2019.
“I am sure Rochas can find its own place in the men’s wear industry and Federico has the talent to bring Rochas to a next level,” stated Interparfums Group and Rochas chief executive officer Philippe Benacin.
Curradi, a native of Florence, launched his own men’s wear label, which shows in Milan, in January 2016 at Pitti Uomo. The designer, who lives in the Florentine countryside, is also creative director of outerwear specialist Peuterey. Born in Florence in 1975, after living in New York for several years he moved back to Italy, first working at Ermanno Daelli, then as head of the men’s styling office at Ermanno Scervino and later becoming head of the men’s collection of Roberto Cavalli in 2005. A year later, he began working at Iceberg on the company’s men’s wear as a consultant. He was also Iceberg’s first men’s wear creative director, succeeded by James

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424 Men’s Spring 2019

In his debut official showing to the press, Los Angeles-based streetwear designer Guillermo Andrade wanted to talk about more than just fashion. Referencing what he described as a decaying interpretation of Americana, Andrade sought to question the American Dream in the context of current events — as a Guatemalan immigrant to the U.S., he has firsthand experience of situations similar to those that have hit the headlines in recent weeks — and the prevailing preppy vision of American ideals.
One hoodie featured a blurred print of an abandoned Detroit school with the Stars and Stripes turned upside down in the foreground. Another theme showed haunting pictures of a decaying theater in a dusty color palette inspired by Detroit.
The basics — printed T-shirts, simple yet well executed hoodies, denim items — were stonewashed or given a hand-painted feel that transmitted the same message in a more subtle fashion.
Elsewhere, Andrade brought in new shapes and techniques for spring that have been enabled by producing certain pieces — a black leather shirt, another in black silk, pinstripe drawstring pants and matching worker’s shirt that are as close as he would like to get to suiting, or quirkier 3-D-printed silk chiffon check pants — in

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Paris Men’s Week: Ones to Watch

Cmmn Swdn, Boramy Viguier and GEYM figure among a selection of rising brands on the week’s official men’s calendar and presentation lineup. And Davide Marello, the former creative director of Boglioli, will unveil his latest project, Davi, which is heavy on printed shirts, in Paris on Thursday.
Undercover, which presented its fall 2018 men’s collection in one of the guests spots at Pitti Uomo in January, will also present on the official men’s calendar for the first time, along with Alyx, which was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2016. Check out a selection of the names set to present.

A shoe from the Cmmn brand. 
Dominique MAITRE

Cmmn Swdn
For their debut show on the official Paris Men’s Week calendar, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund are doing their bit to protest against the mountain of waste the fashion industry is sitting on; to slow things down again and get back to the roots of fashion.
The show is scheduled to take place Tuesday at the Les Ateliers, the École nationale supérieure de création industrielle, a French design school located in Paris’ 11th arrondissement.
Founded in 2012 in Malmo, Sweden, Cmmn Swdn is based between Sweden and London where it showed for six seasons before moving to present in

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2019

With all of the week’s obsessions with everything from the new brand of streetwear to  wild prints and neons and Eighties and Nineties nostalgia, Giorgio Armani proved a welcoming relief from the trend chasing.
This was the Maestro in his element, a moment of softness and simplicity, taking the audience to a far-off place. The super-elegant collection – centered around the double-breasted jacket – catered to the languid lifestyle of a global nomad traveling around the world, pulling on myriad references but with a cohesiveness and coziness to his wardrobe.
Playing with proportions, the designer channeled an elegant gentleman – or at times gentleman farmer – off duty, albeit interpreted through an urban lens, with a palette of mineral colors. With straw hats, fedoras and leather espadrilles among the accessories, Armani focused on his signature super-soft constructions, from gaucho-style oversized pants worn with stitched leather waistcoats over long-sleeved T-shirts to suede safari jackets, printed silk pajamas with digitalized ikat-style prints and those double-breasted jackets, most with peak lapels and all in the relaxed silhouette the designer made iconic.
A look combining crisp cotton pants worn with suspenders and patterned knitwear was another pure Eighties Armani moment, but felt timeless.
Even the unconstructed double-breasted linen suits

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Spring 2019

FIRST PRADA: “Any time spent in Italy is well spent,” said American actor Nick Robinson at his first Prada show, although for the moment his time in the country was limited to the Italian designer’s event. His summer included “traveling a couple of weeks in the Northwest [of the U.S.], a beautiful area, with as many adventures as I can, but I have no plans yet — I just want to be spontaneous.” Prada tapped Robinson for its most recent 365 campaign, and the actor, seen in Greg Berlanti’s 2018 film “Love, Simon,” said attending the show was “a rare, unique experience,” as he rarely attends fashion shows. “It’s such a fascinating world, and whenever I get the opportunity, I usually take it.”
American actor and singer Algee Smith, also in Prada’s campaign, was equally star-struck. “This is my first show, I’m super excited.” He said that shooting the campaign — his first ever — was “nothing like I expected, we were in a warehouse and there was such an adrenaline rush…” The artist said his next album is coming out, as well as the movie “The Hate U Give,” expected to be released in October. Directed by George Tillman Jr.

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Canali Men’s Spring 2019

For his first collection at Canali, Hyun Wook Lee evolved the storied sartorial tradition of the brand with good taste and sophistication—and an impressive color palette that spanned from powder pink and ice gray to brick red and deep ocean blue. He called the collection “Lui,” or “Him” in English, and presented it at Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology, dividing it in four sections: Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration.
In a nod to comfort, Equilibrium blended formal and casual wear, with sartorial wool, linen and silk blends used in sportswear. The designer re-elaborated the Canali name with a graphic play as an all-over print on the cotton-linen button-up shirts and the silk ties.
In the Dynamism room, colors were bolder, ranging from green to burnt sienna. The button-up shirts were styled as jackets, and cotton chinos were worn under jersey knits and over sneakers in a houndstooth fabric.
In the third section, Steadiness – which may also serve as Canali’s mantra, as the company stays the course without treading too far from its core values and without alienating its existing customers – blazers were feather-light and deconstructed to only two layers of canvas.
The lineup in the Inspiration room was meant to point

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MP Massimo Piombo Men’s Spring 2019

Gearing up for his debut collection as creative director of Italian retailer OVS’ men’s line for the fall 2019 season, Massimo Piombo for his namesake line stayed on course with a compact collection of silhouettes and assembling a cocktail of references from around the globe.
The designer layered old school blazers over vibrant cotton tunics in printed fabrics hailing from far-flung destinations like South Africa and Sri Lanka. Playing on contrasts, a traditional check was used on a technical coat, while a black raincoat was cut from a pure mohair cloth typically used for suiting.
Offering a more bohemian direction were tonal looks pairing a vibrant red and black striped spin on a cricket jacket with a patterned silk scarf worn on the waist, like a cummerbund, and a navy blazer with a striped Scandinavian marine knit or a yellow silk shirt — looks capturing the distinctive panache and sense of color for which Piombo is known.

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IMG Launches Men’s Division in Milan

MILAN — And then IMG Models created the man.
The Italian branch of the international model agency has launched a men’s division, elevating IMG Models as global agency offering both men’s and women’s representation services in all of its offices, located in key cities as New York, Los Angeles, London, Sydney and Paris, along with Milan.
Established in April — following the launch in Paris just a few months before — the opening of the men’s division in Italy reflects the company’s investment in the European market and it’s aimed to better serve regional clients and partners with localized support.
“We definitely opened some years late, but the fact is IMG’s men’s division reopened four years ago and we launched New York first, through a small staff, to see if there were the premises to do well there, which is still the most important market in terms of volume,” said Andrea Cairo, managing director of IMG Models Italy.
Cairo explained that after New York, the first European men’s division debuted in London, and the company preferred to consolidate its position in those two locations “and understand if a presence was necessary in Italy and France, both for models and our clients.”
Another delaying aspect was

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Florsheim

Amid Men’s Wear Hype, Thoughtful Basics Are Making Noise, Too

It’s all about simplicity.
At a time when streetwear is dominating the conversation in the world of men’s fashion, there are a number of brands that are quietly building sizable businesses selling updated basics to guys who don’t live and die for the latest Supreme drop or Virgil Abloh sneaker collaboration.
Brands such as Buck Mason, Everlane, Goodlife and Huckberry are making inroads selling these items, which could be labeled “everyday casualwear” or “essentials.”
In years past, their customers probably bought their chinos, T-shirts and hoodies in department stores or specialty retailers such as Gap or Banana Republic. But today, they’re increasingly seeking out other options and spending their money on brands they feel better address their needs.
“They offer simple solutions,” said Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer of WSL, a global strategy consultancy. “When you look at all the new businesses that are cropping up, they address the fundamental issue in the industry, which is that men are looking for something reasonable to wear that is comfortable and stylish.”
Liebmann believes the “increased lack of service” at department and large specialty stores, coupled with the “enormous” assortment offered “without curation,” is what is driving men to indie brands that are trend-right but not overwhelming.

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Case Studies: Men’s Retailers on Adapting to the Changing Climate

Soto Store
It’s all about street cred, which is not surprising in this city that lives and breathes streetwear. But what’s made Berlin’s Soto Store stand out from the start was its “accessible mix of street culture and fashion. Getting high-end labels such as Raf Simon, Dries Van Noten, Thom Browne or Acne into this mix was new. And in today’s high-fashion world, that’s what everyone now wants to do,” commented Andreas Koschnike, chief executive officer of Caliroots Group, the Stockholm-based streetwear and sneaker group that bought Soto two years ago.
Koschnike is “friends from way back” with Highsnobiety’s David Fischer, who together with fashion and media movers Philip Gaedicke and Omer Ben Michael opened Soto in 2010 on Torstrasse, still a somewhat off the beaten shopping path in Mitte. “Since I took over, and with 15 years of Caliroots experience under our belts, we’re primarily trying to strengthen operations,” he said. This involves logistics, the buying process and running the online store, “which has surpassed the physical store, though the store remains a big part of our story,” he said.
What he’s not out to change is Soto’s DNA, often described as a blend of tradition and new invention, and which he sums

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Nordstrom Snags Mr Porter’s Sam Lobban for New Men’s Role

Men’s wear continues to be a key focus for Nordstrom.
Two months after opening its first men’s-only store in New York City, Nordstrom has named Mr Porter executive Sam Lobban vice president of men’s designer and new concepts.
This new position is intended to “evolve the retailer’s men’s business,” the company said, and will support men’s merchandising, marketing, content development, store environment, private label and the shopping experience as it relates to men’s wear.
Lobban’s first day will be Tuesday and he will be based in New York. He will report to Pete Nordstrom, copresident of Nordstrom, with a dotted line to Paige Thomas, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear.
Jeffrey Kalinsky, Nordstrom’s vice president and designer fashion director, introduced Pete Nordstrom to Lobban about a year ago, saying: “Here is a talented person you need to meet.”
For three years, Lobban has been buying manager for Mr Porter — the U.K. equivalent of divisional merchandise manager. He has been with the men’s division of Net-a-porter for seven years, starting as a member of the launch team and serving as senior buyer and buyer over the course of his career.
During his tenure, he was responsible for overseeing the Exclusive Capsule Collection

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Qasimi Men’s Spring 2019

Khalid Qasimi’s nomad packed up his tent and continued to wander — and what a journey it was. Filled with chunky V-neck sweaters, roomy layers and laid-back, tailored separates, the collection was a refreshing alternative to the glut of streetwear on so many European catwalks.
Qasimi has always been a romantic, looking to history and human relationships for his bohemian-edged collections: This season his washed ikat prints on boxy shirts were inspired by maps and markers inside old archaeological guides while heartbreaking slogans, such as “We are so different now,” appeared on shirts or the edges of jackets.
The designer likes to refer to his collections as “a broad range of wardrobe staples for the constant traveler,” but they are so much more. Colored, woven ties — like bracelets sold on Europe’s street corners and beaches — appeared as drawstrings on oversize hoodie tops, fluid, tracksuit-style trousers, or as skinny belts cinching the back of loose navy or khaki tailored jackets.
The designer worked heavy, washed denim into oversize trousers with low-slung waists, and plied an equally hefty workwear cotton fabric into patchwork trousers and bombers in shades like cornflower, buttercup, olive and stone. Those colors came from a bigger palette that also took

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OzoneSocks – Fathers Day Savings! Take 25% Off All Mens Socks PLUS Free Shipping On Orders Over $25 at OzoneSocks.com. Use code: FATHERS25, Offer Valid 6/7 – 6/11. Does not include SOTMC or Mystery Bundle.

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Daniel Fletcher Men’s Spring 2019

For spring 2019, Daniel Fletcher reworked the classic suit through his personal lens. He expressed his frustrations with the more restrictive business side of running his label with a collection featuring classic tailoring that was shredded, corseted and had dark overtones of a debaucherous weekend.
‘I have this feeling of restraint because there are so many restrictions with running my label that I wanted to break free,’ Fletcher said. ‘I like this idea of this businessman who’s gone out for a wild weekend after an 80-hour week. I wanted it to feel sadistic like where did he end up on this Friday night out.”
He subverted traditional menswear including suit jackets, slim trousers, shirts and leather jackets in its finishes – an exposed lining hanging out of the suit, slashes on the backs of the legs and rope detailing that bound seams together. There was a strong sense of angst and a need for freedom in the collection, which was juxtaposed with a poetic restraint – corsets atop shirts and wrapped around suits, as well as leather halter-tops that fitted like a second skin.
Fletcher collaborated with artist Caitlin Keogh for the prints seen on his silk shirts, featuring female torsos bound by

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New York Men’s Dates to Move to June in 2019

Don’t get too attached to the July dates for New York Fashion Week: Men’s — they’re changing.
Starting next year, the Council of Fashion Designers of America will shift the dates for the spring men’s shows to the first week in June. This will not only coincide with the fledgling New York women’s resort season, but will also allow American designers to show before their European counterparts.
London has historically kicked off the spring season with shows that start this year on Saturday. That’s followed by Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan and Paris. For six seasons, NYFW: Men’s has brought up the rear with shows in mid-July.
But a successful mega, 10-day, dual-gender fashion week this past February has prompted the shift starting in 2019.
“The July timing is problematic for a lot of brands,” said Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “So this will be the last NYFW: Men’s in July.”
In February, he said, the men’s shows will once again be timed to run on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday before the women’s calendar starts on Thursday. ”It worked really well,” he said. But the spring shows will now start before London.
“The designers are really

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Men’s Trend 2018: All the Right Moves

Aerodynamic constructions and performance fabrics give classic men’s briefs a freewheeling élan.

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OzoneSocks – Fathers Day Savings! Take 25% Off All Mens Socks PLUS Free Shipping On Orders Over $25 at OzoneSocks.com. Use code: FATHERS25, Offer Valid 6/7 – 6/11. Does not include SOTMC or Mystery Bundle.

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Men’s Wear Veteran Don Witkowski Dies at 66

Don Witkowski, who held key positions in men’s wear for several high-profile brands including Michael Kors and John Varvatos, died Monday morning at his home in Water Mill, N.Y. He was 66.
The cause of death was glioblastoma, which was diagnosed in March, according to his husband, Robert Wallace.
Witkowski worked in the men’s industry for more than a quarter-century, holding stints at Barneys New York, Merona, Jeffrey Banks, Polo Jeans, DKNY, Nautica and John Varvatos. He spent two tours of duty with Michael Kors, most recently as president of the company’s men’s division.
Ironically, a dozen of Witkowski’s best industry friends met for dinner on Sunday night in hopes of connecting with him one last time. Attendees included Varvatos, Banks and Mindy Grossman, now chief executive officer of Weight Watchers.
“We knew Don was in the last stages of life,” Banks said, “and we thought if we could all get together for dinner, we could use an iPad to tell him how much we loved him.”
Unfortunately, Witkowski was too ill to participate, Banks said. “So we all got together to grieve and tell stories about Don. It was quite wonderful — we laughed and we cried, but we celebrated him.”
Banks said he met

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 25% Off Regular Priced Men’s Footwear and Apparel At Modells.com. Use Code YAYDAD

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Gucci Taps Harry Styles for its Fall Men’s Tailoring Ad Campaign

SIGN OF THE TIMES: Harry Styles is the latest addition to the Gucci gang.
The British singer and actor was tapped by the fashion house to front the advertising campaign of its fall 2018 tailoring collection.
Lensed by Glen Luchford with art direction by Christopher Simmonds, the images portray Styles in a fish-and-chip shop in northern London posing with animals including chickens and dogs.
The musician is pictured in a variety of Gucci tailored outfits, combining formal shirt and ties with buttoned-up casual shirts and accessories such as rings, necklaces and brooches.

Harry Styles in Gucci’s men’s tailoring ad campaign. 
Glen Luchford

Looks include a teal checked three-piece suit with bees as decorative motifs; a blue-and-beige macro gingham dressing gown worn as a coat over a pinstripe double-breasted suit, and a grey wool option embellished with patches featuring the insignia of the NY Yankees baseball team. Moccassins, sandals and sneakers complete the outfits.

Harry Styles in Gucci’s men’s tailoring ad campaign. 
Glen Luchford

Flanking the images, a short clip also directed by Luchford shows the musician heading to the local chippy with his pet chicken and queuing to order some food.
Previewed on Gucci’s Instagram account, the campaign breaks this month across all media.
The musician’s predecessors in the role included

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 25% Off Regular Priced Men’s Footwear and Apparel At Modells.com. Use Code YAYDAD

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 25% Off Regular Priced Men’s Footwear and Apparel At Modells.com. Use Code YAYDAD

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 25% Off Regular Priced Men’s Footwear and Apparel At Modells.com. Use Code YAYDAD

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 25% Off Regular Priced Men’s Footwear and Apparel At Modells.com. Use Code YAYDAD

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Take 25% Off Regular Priced Men’s Footwear and Apparel At Modells.com. Use Code YAYDAD

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9 Insider Men’s Style Tips From Neo-Soul Singer Leon Bridges

The musician—known for his superior fashion sense—on where to buy the best white T-shirts, affordable gold watches and pieces that will set you apart from the pack.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATE:

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Phoebe English to Combine Men’s, Women’s Shows in June

TWO BECOME ONE: Phoebe English is the latest designer to take the coed route. The designer plans to combine her men’s and women’s presentations starting next month at London Fashion Week Men’s.
“I think the main thing is to take control of schedules and time,” said English. “Combining the shows will give us a longer lead time to develop designs in between seasons,” she said.
English will stage her first coed presentation on Sunday, June 10 from 9:30 to 11:30 a.m.
Financial considerations also influenced her decision. The designer commented on the close proximity between the London men’s and women’s fashion weeks and said that both economically and creatively it has been a big strain.
“I want to give the team enough time between shows to rest and recover for the next one. It will give us more freedom to develop creatively and to develop our relationships with our factories and fabric mills,” said English.
English is the latest British designer to combine her men’s and women’s shows. She is following the lead of Paul Smith, J.W. Anderson and Burberry.
Although her men’s and women’s collections will be consolidated, the arrangement will not change her design directive. “The personalities will remain the same, the men’s wear collection is a lot

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L.A.-Based Mother Denim to Add Men’s Range in Ron Herman, Online

Mother denim, the eight-year-old Los Angeles-based premium denim brand, is adding men to the mix. Launching next week, the 10-piece collection ranges in price from $ 95 to $ 325 retail.
“Men’s has always been something we’ve wanted to do and it was more a matter of ‘when’ rather than ‘what if.’ After developing our women’s Mother Superior line, which is based loosely on men’s vintage fits and fabrics, launching men’s was a natural evolution,” said Tim Kaeding, cofounder and creative director of Mother.
The Made in L.A. line has long borrowed from the boys for its women’s designs, from the early boyfriend jeans and denim shirts, to the unisex Love Your Other collection to its most recent line, Mother Superior, which is known for oversize silhouettes. Keading’s extensive personal collection of men’s denim, as well as other men’s jeans, patterns and fabrics have figured into all of the pieces.
The men’s line includes three jean silhouettes in four washes, all inspired by libations and the bar scene: The Joint (a skinny jean), The Neat (tapered straight leg) and The Chaser (a universal straight). There’s also a denim jacket and shirt, a twill trouser, a graphic printed shirt, plain and logo T-shirts, and a zip

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Stella McCartney Joins Milan Men’s Fashion Week

MILAN – Stella McCartney is headed to Milan.
The designer will present her women’s resort 2019 and men’s spring 2019 collections in a presentation to be held on the last day of Milan Fashion Week, running June 15 to 18.
The label’s presentation will be held from 8 to 11 p.m., while details on the location have yet to be disclosed.
McCartney won’t be the only designer presenting women’s wear during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. Alberta Ferretti will also join the men’s calendar debuting her new resort 2019 and Limited Edition collections on June 15.
The show will take place at the Sala delle Cariatidi venue – located on the main floor of the central Palazzo Reale building – starting from 6:30 p.m. Divided in two parts, the event will first showcase the resort 2019 range, followed by evening and cocktail gowns from the fashion house’s demi-couture line.

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Clothing up to 40% Off at SportChek! Restrictions may apply. Offer ends 04/17/2018. Shop now!

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Iceberg to Show Men’s Spring Collection in London

LONDON BOUND:  Iceberg goes to the U.K.
The Italian contemporary brand, controlled by manufacturing company Gilmar, is showing its men’s spring 2019 collection during London Collections: Men.
The runway show will take place on June 8 in a still undisclosed location.
Along with unveiling its latest men’s effort, creative director James Long will also showcase a selection of looks from Iceberg women’s pre-fall lineup.
Long joine