EXCLUSIVE: L’Exception Adds Private Label Men’s Line

PARIS — L’Exception, the Paris-based online retailer dedicated to French labels, is launching a direct-to-consumer private label men’s line.
The idea, said founder Régis Pennel, is not to go into competition with the brands they sell but to present a complementary line of basics. The preppy line includes parkas, roll necks in merino wool, old-school cardigans and flannel shirts, with prices going from 35 euros for a T-shirt to 120 euros for a denim jacket.

A denim jacket from the line. 
Courtesy

Designing the line is Rémi de Laquintane, founder of Laquintane and cofounder of Parisian men’s wear label Éditions MR, both of which are carried by L’Exception. Lewis Lazar and Christopher Moore of French group the Oracle Sisters, which channels a Seventies vibe, are cited as the muses of the collection.
Launching on Oct. 11, the line will be sold exclusively on the retailer’s site and in a dedicated corner at its brick-and-mortar store in the Forum des Halles shopping center, with regular drops and a focus on European materials and production. The details of the supply chain will be shared on the site.
Pennel described the line as being very Parisian in style — “classic with a twist.”
“We thought more about core products for our

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Y/Project to Unveil Men’s Fall Collection at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Y/Project will show its men’s fall 2019 collection in Florence as guest brand of the next edition of international men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 8 to 11.
Y/Project’s collections are designed by Glenn Martens, who succeeded the brand’s founder Yohan Serfaty as creative director in 2013. Serfaty passed away that year.
Under the creative direction of Martens, the Paris-based label won the ANDAM Grand Prize award in 2017 and consolidated its presence in the most relevant department stores in the world, including Dover Street Market, Barneys, Selfridges, Lane Crawford and Jeffrey.
“Glenn Martens created for Y/Project a new aesthetic language, based on contradictions,” said Pitti Immagine communication and events director Lapo Cianchi. “Elegance is juxtaposed with eclectic and extravagant references, streetwear is enriched with historic details and exaggerated couture touches. The brand offers a highly conceptual design in line with the most advances projects in the market and Martens express a witty sense of humor and has a very personal fashion vision, based on freedom, experimentation and fun, without boundaries.”
Last June, Martens unveiled in Milan his capsule collection for the Diesel Red Tag label. Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli were the latest guests designer at Pitti Uomo last June.

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SportChek – Select Men’s & Women’s Footwear Buy One Get One 50% Off* At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/3. Shop Now!

Select Men’s & Women’s Shoes Buy One, Get One 50% Off. *Select brands & styles. 2nd item must be of equal or lesser value. Cannot be combined with Kids’ Shoes or any other offer. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 3rd, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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SportChek – Select Men’s & Women’s Footwear Buy One Get One 50% Off* At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/3. Shop Now!

Select Men’s & Women’s Shoes Buy One, Get One 50% Off. *Select brands & styles. 2nd item must be of equal or lesser value. Cannot be combined with Kids’ Shoes or any other offer. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 3rd, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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SportChek – Select Men’s & Women’s Footwear Buy One Get One 50% Off* At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/3. Shop Now!

Select Men’s & Women’s Shoes Buy One, Get One 50% Off. *Select brands & styles. 2nd item must be of equal or lesser value. Cannot be combined with Kids’ Shoes or any other offer. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 3rd, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Michael Kors Brings Pesaresi on Board to Helm Men’s Division

Michael Kors Holdings Limited has named Andrea Pesaresi president of Michael Kors Men’s, effective Oct. 15.
He succeeds Don Witkowski, who passed away in June, and will report to John D. Idol, chairman and chief executive officer.
Pesaresi was most recently ceo of Philippe Model, but prior to that, he spent 25 years at Ermenegildo Zegna, where his most recent role was brand director of Z Zegna and Licensing, a post that encompassed product development, brand strategy, international expansion and marketing. Pesaresi joined Philippe Model, an Italian sneaker brand, at the end of 2016.
“Andrea has been in the industry for 30 years and comes to us with extensive knowledge of the evolving luxury men’s marketplace,” Idol said. “Andrea will provide the necessary leadership to enable us to achieve our goal of developing the Michael Kors men’s wear business to $ 1 billion in revenue.”
The company declined to say how large the men’s business is today, but in the first-quarter earnings call in early August, Idol said that while men’s is “still small to the total company, it continues to grow.” He cited strength in logo sportswear “for Father’s Day gifting, particularly the Greenwich polo and our knit logo baseball jacket,” along with “refined pieces such

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Sanyo Partnering With Apolis Men’s Brand

Apolis, a socially conscious men’s brand, has inked a deal with Sanyo Shokai to expand the label’s presence in Japan as well as its product offering.
Sanyo will act as a partner, exclusive distributor and licensor for the brand and will oversee production and distribution starting with the spring/summer 2019 season.
As part of the deal, the Apolis e-commerce site will be relaunched, a flagship store will open in Tokyo, the brand will add women’s wear and its men’s wear offering will be expanded.
Creative director Raan Parton will partner with the Sanyo team to design the product, which will be manufactured in the Japanese company’s factories in that country along with Apolis’ network of global artisans rounding out the production.
Collections will be produced globally and will continue to adhere to Apolis’ sustainable standards and environmental conscientiousness. The brand was certified as a B Impact Corporation in 2012, a designation for businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose.
Isao Iwata, president, representative director and chief operating officer of Sanyo, called Apolis “an early adopter of sustainable practices and socially aware production. Sanyo has also been a company with a

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John Elliott Men’s and Women’s Spring 2019

John Elliott brought a healthy dose of California to New York City for his spring show, taking over a skate park on the Hudson River to drive home the inspiration for the season: Los Angeles. With the 90-plus-degree heat and blazing sun, it was L.A. at its most extreme.
The designer did his best to make attendees comfortable on their colorful milk-crate seats by providing cold water or juice and portable fans. But most faces were shiny with sweat by the time his celebrity guests arrived: LeBron James and Justin Bieber, the latter arriving hand-in-hand with fiancée Hailey Baldwin and grooving to the soundtrack.
Elliott considered his hometown “the most authoritative story” he could tell this season. “Not the stereotypical, glitzy, Hollywood L.A.,” he noted, “but the real neighborhoods — that’s my truth.”
It shone through in its casual vibe and the seamless blend of streetwear and athletic references. Elliott also showed a new maturity by offering up a blend of technical materials and varying silhouettes that took inspiration from different eras to create a never-ending youthful vibe.
His L.A. inspiration was obvious in the slightly oversize shorts and jackets that he emblazoned with a colorful bougainvillea print — a bit out of character

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Christopher Bates to Sell Men’s Collection to Nordstrom in Canada

Canadian men’s designer Christopher Bates will be celebrating his 10th anniversary with a runway show Tuesday night during Toronto Fashion Week at the same time he reveals a deal with Nordstrom as the brand’s exclusive department store partner in Canada.
“Spring/summer 2019 is by far one of my most technically advanced collections and having it launch with such an iconic retailer as Nordstrom is a dream come true,” said Bates.
The spring collection is inspired by vintage tennis and cycling wear and includes a focus on technical fabrics and modern tailoring. Each piece is created with luxury textiles from Italy and include 3-D textured bomber jackets, jersey travel blazers, colorful knitwear and lightweight jackets and coats.
In addition to ready-to-wear, Bates has a bespoke business, working with a master tailor in Toronto to produce suits, tuxedos, jackets and shirts. For five seasons, Bates has partnered with Canadian specialty retailer Harry Rosen on a shoe collection, which will be rolling out from four to 10 stores next year, and he is creating a line of sneakers in collaboration with MTV that will launch next month. He also produces a line of unisex eyewear. He was tapped to create the uniforms for Air Canada that some

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What to Watch: Men’s Market Grows Although Changes Abound

Men’s wear continues to make strides as guys from all walks of life prove that it’s not only women that care how they look.
From the red-hot streetwear market to suits with a slim modern fit — and technical attributes in everything — men continue to upgrade their wardrobes to keep up with the latest trends.
And it’s showing in the numbers.
Men’s wear is now estimated to represent 40 percent of the global apparel market and continues to grow. According to Euromonitor International, global sales of men’s wear increased 3.7 percent to $ 419 billion in 2017, outpacing women’s, which rose 3.4 percent to $ 643 billion.
In the U.S., sales hit $ 85 billion last year and are on track to rise 1.1 percent to over $ 86 billion this year, Euromonitor projected.
Other firms’ figures bear that out as well. According to Statista, retail sales of the men’s market in the U.S. were $ 62.1 billion in 2013 and are projected to hit nearly $ 75 billion this year.
And NPD Group said for the six months ended June 2018, total men’s apparel sales rose 3 percent to $ 29 billion with active bottoms and knit shirts gaining in popularity while dress shirts and woven shirts declined. For the second

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Flagpole Enters Men’s Swim

Megan Balch and Jaime Barker, who cofounded Flagpole in 2013, are known for their sporty, brightly colored women’s swimwear sold at retailers including Shopbop and Barneys New York, but they always had the men’s category in mind.
“Flagpole is the name of the beach we grew up on,” said Balch. “But before we even had sketches or drawings, we always knew we wanted to have a unisex name to accommodate for men’s.”
According to Balch, they’ve spent two years working on the men’s collection, which includes two silhouettes: the Luke short, a hybrid swim and travel short; and the Dave trunk, a classic swimsuit. The Luke short is made from a quick-drying fabric with pockets and an interior adjustable drawstring. They retail for $ 225. The Dave trunk has a slim fit and is also made from a quick-drying fabric but has an elastic waistband. It retails for $ 185.
“Since our launch, a lot of men have reached out saying that they resonate with our clean, modern and functional aesthetic,” said Balch. “What they wanted boiled down to two things: a classic cut and ultimate comfort.”
They are opting for a direct-to-consumer distribution with men’s in order to get feedback from consumers.
“It’s hard to get

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Chanel Creating First Men’s Makeup Line

BOY MAKEUP: Diving into the swelling men’s grooming trend, Chanel is launching its first makeup line for guys, a three-product range, starting in South Korea on Sept. 1.
The collection includes a tinted fluid, coming in four colors; a matte moisturizing lip balm, and four shades of eyebrow pencil.
Chanel’s Boy division, which already counts products such as handbags and a perfume, is named after Boy Capel, the lover and muse of Gabrielle Chanel.
“Just as Gabrielle Chanel borrowed elements from the men’s wardrobe to dress women, Chanel draws inspiration from the women’s world to write the vocabulary of a new personal aesthetic for men,” the company said in a statement. “Lines, colors, attitudes, gestures….There is no absolutely feminine or masculine prerequisite: Style alone defines the person we wish to be.
“By creating Boy de Chanel, its first makeup line for men, Chanel reaffirms the ever-changing codes of an unchanging vision: Beauty is not a matter of gender, it is a matter of style.”
The collection will be rolled out to the rest of the world in November on the house’s e-commerce platforms and in January 2019 in Chanel’s boutiques.

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Men’s Continues to Gain Ground as Sales Increase

LAS VEGAS — Men’s wear represents 40 percent of the global apparel market and continues to grow both in popularity and penetration for most retailers. With that experience as the backdrop, merchants shopping the shows here earlier this week were in upbeat spirits as they scoured the aisles for the latest trend-right product to fuel that men’s wear momentum heading into next year.
Christine Wu, senior trend analyst for the Doneger Group, said the men’s wear market is projected to increase to $ 33 billion in sales by 2020, up 14 percent from $ 29 billion in 2015, the most recent figure available from Euromonitor International. Among the most popular categories are activewear-inspired pieces that offer performance and technology attributes, as well as streetwear, both at the designer and more democratically priced level.
Patty Leto, senior vice president of merchandising for Doneger, said that in order to sustain the strong showing, retailers have to reach men on their own terms and provide a “targeted and more personal approach to the assortment.” This will require a “necessary recalibration” of the business.
But because men’s wear doesn’t move that quickly, that recalibration will boil down to subtle updates of the current trends, notably nostalgia, outdoor lifestyle and

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Movers and Shakers in the Men’s E-commerce Space

Don’t tell these companies that men don’t shop online.
There are now a slew of men’s wear-focused e-tailers offering everything from designer clothing to socks, underwear to streetwear. While some of these businesses have become household names and others are still flying under the radar, all of them have managed to make their mark. They’ve also attracted some big bucks from outside investors, a key indicator that they’re doing something right.
Here, a closer look at some of the major players and their businesses.
Black Tux
Primary business: Tuxedo and suit rentals
Backstory: The Los Angeles-based company was founded in 2013 by longtime friends Andrew Blackmon and Patrick Coyne, who saw an opportunity to improve the traditional tuxedo and suit rental process. Often referred to as the Rent the Runway for guys, the Black Tux has raised $ 60 million in funding since it started, the most recent round coming in March when TZP Group — along with Stripes Group, Menlo Ventures and Raine Ventures — came through with $ 30 million the company said it would use to add more warehouse space. A facility opened in Pennsylvania earlier this year.
Reach: In addition to its own e-commerce site and six of its own showrooms, the company

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Men’s Spring 2019: Flying Colors

The men’s collections for spring skew young, vibrant — and very spiffy. A plethora of tailored elements mingle with explosive color and touches of Nineties raver.

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Swimwear & Boardshort Clearance Up To 50% Off at SportChek! Offer ends 8/9/18. Shop Now!

Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Swimwear & Boardshort Clearance Up To 50% Off*. *Our original price. Select brands and styles. Not all clearance priced items and price points available at all locations. Selection may vary by location. Order must be completed by August 9, 2018 to qualify.
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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Swimwear & Boardshort Clearance Up To 50% Off at SportChek! Offer ends 8/9/18. Shop Now!

Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Swimwear & Boardshort Clearance Up To 50% Off*. *Our original price. Select brands and styles. Not all clearance priced items and price points available at all locations. Selection may vary by location. Order must be completed by August 9, 2018 to qualify.
Code: No code required
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Brioni Changes, So Does Italy’s Men’s Wear Industry

MILAN — “Brioni is a work in progress, I underline the word progress,” said Jean-François Palus, Kering Group’s managing director, during a call with analysts on Thursday, to discuss first-half results of the Italian men’s wear brand’s parent company. And on Friday, the company revealed it was once again parting ways with its creative director — this time Nina-Maria Nitsche — after only one year. Brioni chief executive officer Fabrizio Malverdi was not available for comment.
What happened with Nitsche is open to interpretation. Kering does not break out sales for its smaller brands, but it was reported that the “other luxury houses” division posted a 34.7 percent increase in sales to 534 million euros in the second quarter, despite continued losses at Brioni. But Jean-Marc Duplaix, Kering’s chief financial officer, said during the call that “Brioni’s top line is on track to gradually better absorb its fixed costs.”
Analysts are skeptical Kering would be looking to sell Brioni now, a suggestion confirmed by Palus, who said the group does “not intend to dispose of any other brands of our current portfolio.” Kering, then called PPR, acquired Brioni in 2011 from the descendants of the company’s founders, Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini.
A successor

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Get Smart

Dressing up again — in easy, laid-back tailoring — was a key message of the men’s shows, and a riposte to the streetwear juggernaut.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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Top Men’s Trends for Spring 2019

First came dad sneakers — and now the so-uncool-they’re-cool jeans to match.

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Theory Men’s Spring 2019

Well-known for his take on creating timeless wardrobe pieces with a cool minimalistic twist, Theory’s Martin Andersson’s spring collection keeps building on the same principles it has for the few past seasons: mobility and innovation. 
“We asked ourselves, who is the Theory guy, and concluded that he’s into travel,” Andersson said at the brand’s spring presentation.
A capsule collection focusing on the idea of mobility and travel — packable seam-sealed blazers, travel Mac coats, water-resistant shirts and even a tracksuit — were all designed to be worn from the office straight to the airport.
Andersson has a knack for giving wardrobe staples a cool, minimalist élan via color and cut. His spring palette spanned forest greens, navy, khaki and bright pops of electric yellow and pink that were inspired from Dan Flavin’s light installations at Dia: Beacon.
A standout were the khaki pieces, such as khaki chinos with a contrast waistband paired with a bright pink sweater — a perfect blend of casual and sporty.

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s Inspirations

As the men’s show season enters its final lap, New York designers are prepared to embrace classic tailoring, the Mayan Riviera, the cool skater boy and even state fairs.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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A Fight for Men’s Rights, in California Courts

Ladies’ nights, career seminars and paternity fraud are all on the docket.
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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Ted Baker to Introduce Men’s Underwear, Lounge, Sleep

Ted Baker is entering the innerwear category.
The apparel company, which is based in London, has signed a five-year licensing agreement with Delta Galil to develop, produce and distribute men’s innerwear.
“I am delighted to collaborate with Delta Galil as Ted’s exclusive underwear and loungewear partner,” said Ricky Green, global wholesale director at Ted Baker. “We’re excited to introduce the collection to all markets and work together closely to develop the products.”
The collection will span men’s underwear, loungewear and thermal base layers and pajama sets and will launch in spring 2019.
“Ted Baker is well-known for its high-quality fabrics and distinctive designs, and we are very excited to partner with the brand and expand it into new categories,” said Isaac Dabah, chief executive officer of Delta Galil. “This partnership represents a significant opportunity for Delta Galil to grow its global portfolio of premium brands, as Ted Baker’s elevated apparel resonates with men across the world.”
Ted Baker currently operates 21 other licensing agreements that include fragrance, homewares and tailoring.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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The Cons and Pros of Shrunken NYFW: Men’s

Good riddance July. Now American men’s designers can only hope things get better next June.
Todd Snyder wrapped up the spring 2019 edition of New York Fashion Week: Men’s on Wednesday night with an upbeat show that embraced America — and proved to be one of the handful of shows that could legitimately compete with those in London, Florence, Milan or Paris. Otherwise, the three-day affair continued to be devoid of most of American fashion’s major names and was a haphazard mix of shows and presentations that often lacked energy, generated little buzz and continued to raise questions over where New York fits into the men’s calendar.
But the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the organizer, is hoping to resuscitate things next summer when it moves the show dates to align with women’s resort in early June — before the London men’s shows start.
Holding the men’s and women’s shows at the same time worked well for the men’s brands in February when the CFDA staged a successful 10-day dual-gender fashion week, with the men’s-only or men’s-heavy brands kicking off the week. That’s the plan for this coming February as well.
And although the June women’s resort shows are not as established as

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Independents’ Day: Canada’s Harry Rosen Has Owned the Men’s Market for Decades

TORONTO — Harry Rosen has a lock on the Canadian men’s wear market, but that hold hasn’t come without a lot of hard work.
The company was founded in 1954 by Harry and his brother Lou Rosen in a small storefront in Toronto to provide made-to-measure suits for men. The firm has since grown into a 300 million Canadian dollar ($ 228.3 million), 18-store chain with locations in the seven largest cities around the country and some 1,000 employees.
Although Harry stepped back from the day-to-day operation of the business in 2005, he still serves as an ambassador, often stopping by one of the stores to chat with customers. But he left the company in good hands: as chief executive officer since 2000, his son Larry Rosen has built on his father’s legacy. Waiting in the wings is Ian Rosen, Larry’s son, who is joining the family business this summer to oversee its digital marketing initiatives, and at the same time, ensure the eventual transition to the next generation will be seamless.
But Harry Rosen has also branched out beyond its core business, teaming up with Ermenegildo Zegna to open flagship stores for the luxury Italian label in Canada. In August, a 3,000-square-foot Zegna

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Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2019

Models running wind sprints and stretching in colorful soccer gear on the runway prior to the show created the ideal introduction for Willy Chavarria’s new collaboration with Danish soccer brand Hummel.
The collection was defined by the use of bright colors and long boxy silhouettes in shorts and tops that paid homage to the designer’s main line. His creative use of the Hummel logo and soccer uniform staples such as numbers and insignias turned them into streetwear-infused details.
The collaboration will also serve to offer sponsorships to New York City soccer players with documented and undocumented U.S. citizens offering support to immigrants, another key element of this season for Chavarria.
His spin on soccerwear served as part one of a two-part spring collection.
For his main line, Chavarria said he pulled from Latino culture of the early Aughts on the East and West Coasts. The “baggy silhouettes” from Venice and Culver City were juxtaposed with the “long rise pants tucked into Timberlands” that defined the urban landscape in the Bronx and Harlem in that era.
The nostalgia kicked into high gear with Chavarria’s take on Polo Sport references: upside-down American flags, yellow trenchcoats and the word America printed upside down on the front of sweatshirts.
There was also

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Industry Adapts to Shifting Milan Men’s Fashion Week

MILAN — A shrinking show calendar, currency volatility and macro economic issues at the tail end of a period of local political instability following Italy’s general elections were only some of the concerns weighing on executives on the eve of Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
But on the upside, business is chugging along steadily. Revenues generated by the fashion sector last year grew 2.5 percent to 64.8 billion euros, and exports rose 4.3 percent to 50 billion euros, according to Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s Fashion Economic Trends report issued in May. The first half is expected to show 1.5 percent growth in sales compared with the same period last year. Last week, the updated Altagamma Worldwide Market Monitor and Bain & Co. study painted a pretty picture, as the global personal luxury goods industry is expected to grow 6 to 8 percent at constant exchange compared with the 5 percent growth forecast last October for 2018.
“Everyone is hoping to see a modicum of stability, which would allow us to set goals in the medium-term, invest in three-year plans without this sense of anxiety hovering over us,” said Paolo Roviera, chief executive officer of Corneliani. Roviera admitted that business had been affected in the first

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Public School to Participate in NYFW: Men’s

Public School will be participating in New York Fashion Week: Men’s — but exactly what the brand is planning to do is being kept under wraps.
On Friday, the New York-based men’s and women’s label founded by Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne sent out an invite to an event Wednesday night in TriBeCa. The invitation, which also had the branding for Moët & Chandon, read: “A piece of ground that belonged to them, on which they could plant their feet, permanency.” The designers had created special bottles for the spirits brand that were unveiled during New York Fashion Week last September.
A spokesman for the company declined to provide further details on Wednesday’s event.
In December, the designers said they would be taking a break from showing their collection during NYFW in February as “the company is in the midst of stepping away from the traditional industry format and launching a new direct-to-consumer concept.” The company said details would be shared in advance of the launch later this year and that the brand would be “refining” its product assortment, “delivery cadence,” and restructuring it organization.
According to retailers who had carried the line, the final Public School wholesale collection was shipped for spring.

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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IMG Launches Men’s Division in Milan

MILAN — And then IMG Models created the man.
The Italian branch of the international model agency has launched a men’s division, elevating IMG Models as global agency offering both men’s and women’s representation services in all of its offices, located in key cities as New York, Los Angeles, London, Sydney and Paris, along with Milan.
Established in April — following the launch in Paris just a few months before — the opening of the men’s division in Italy reflects the company’s investment in the European market and it’s aimed to better serve regional clients and partners with localized support.
“We definitely opened some years late, but the fact is IMG’s men’s division reopened four years ago and we launched New York first, through a small staff, to see if there were the premises to do well there, which is still the most important market in terms of volume,” said Andrea Cairo, managing director of IMG Models Italy.
Cairo explained that after New York, the first European men’s division debuted in London, and the company preferred to consolidate its position in those two locations “and understand if a presence was necessary in Italy and France, both for models and our clients.”
Another delaying aspect was

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Cartoon Network to Sponsor NYFW: Men’s

The Council of Fashion Designers of America is forging a relationship with Cartoon Network.
The network will provide support for the shows and the CFDA connected the company with Ryohei Kawanishi of Landlord, who will design a capsule collection based on “Adventure Time,” a popular animated series.
Instead of just producing a one-off capsule collection, Kawanishi said he has also integrated themes from the series into his main line, which will show during NYFW: Men’s on July 9.
“I wanted to make a mental connection with what’s going on in the cartoons,” said Kawanishi, who usually designs based on distinct themes ranging from Rastafarianism to southern hip-hop.
Cartoon Network has played in the fashion space before via collaborations with brands including Moschino, Champion and Rook, but Pete Yoder, vice president of Cartoon Network Enterprises, North America, said these collaborations have become a bigger focus for the company, which is why it has partnered with the CFDA.
“It’s a huge priority for us because we want to address our fan base with the more traditional licensed product that’s more accessible, but we also want to give our super fans something special that they can call their own,” Yoder said. “Partnering with the CFDA is a great way to gain access to this

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Paris Men’s Week: Ones to Watch

Cmmn Swdn, Boramy Viguier and GEYM figure among a selection of rising brands on the week’s official men’s calendar and presentation lineup. And Davide Marello, the former creative director of Boglioli, will unveil his latest project, Davi, which is heavy on printed shirts, in Paris on Thursday.
Undercover, which presented its fall 2018 men’s collection in one of the guests spots at Pitti Uomo in January, will also present on the official men’s calendar for the first time, along with Alyx, which was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2016. Check out a selection of the names set to present.

A shoe from the Cmmn brand. 
Dominique MAITRE

Cmmn Swdn
For their debut show on the official Paris Men’s Week calendar, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund are doing their bit to protest against the mountain of waste the fashion industry is sitting on; to slow things down again and get back to the roots of fashion.
The show is scheduled to take place Tuesday at the Les Ateliers, the École nationale supérieure de création industrielle, a French design school located in Paris’ 11th arrondissement.
Founded in 2012 in Malmo, Sweden, Cmmn Swdn is based between Sweden and London where it showed for six seasons before moving to present in

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Rochas Names Federico Curradi to Head Men’s Fashion

Rochas has named a new creative director for its men’s wear activity, which it put on hold last year after only two seasons.
The Interparfums-owned fashion house said Italian designer Federico Curradi will be charged with bringing “a new attitude” to Rochas men’s wear going forward. The brand is expected to relaunch in January 2019.
“I am sure Rochas can find its own place in the men’s wear industry and Federico has the talent to bring Rochas to a next level,” stated Interparfums Group and Rochas chief executive officer Philippe Benacin.
Curradi, a native of Florence, launched his own men’s wear label, which shows in Milan, in January 2016 at Pitti Uomo. The designer, who lives in the Florentine countryside, is also creative director of outerwear specialist Peuterey. Born in Florence in 1975, after living in New York for several years he moved back to Italy, first working at Ermanno Daelli, then as head of the men’s styling office at Ermanno Scervino and later becoming head of the men’s collection of Roberto Cavalli in 2005. A year later, he began working at Iceberg on the company’s men’s wear as a consultant. He was also Iceberg’s first men’s wear creative director, succeeded by James

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Stalvey to Launch Men’s Accessories

A favorite accessory brand of Beyoncé and Gigi Hadid is going to be available for men.
Stalvey, an exotic skin accessories collection created by Jason Stalvey and popular with many female celebrities, will launch its first men’s collection for fall.
The inaugural lineup, which will include duffels, backpacks, caps and small leather goods, will be exclusive to Moda Operandi, an upscale e-commerce site that just expanded into men’s wear this month.
Stalvey, who has a background in science and medicine, launched his women’s line with Barneys New York in the fall of 2014, and it’s currently offered there as well as at The Webster, Harrods, Lane Crawford and other upscale retailers.
But while he’s made his mark in women’s wear, it’s actually men’s where he got his start.
Stalvey said that while his background wasn’t in fashion, he got into the business after being unable to find an alligator skin duffel bag that fit his needs. “I thought, it can’t be that hard,” he said. “Well, it was that hard.” But he stuck with it, found artisans in the U.S. and Italy that were able to work with exotic skins, and eventually created what he believed to be the perfect duffel. That led to him

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Katharine Hamnett Men’s Spring 2019

The designer worked a mix of street, tailored clothing and some old favorites into this fully organic and sustainable collection. One of fashion’s sustainable clothing pioneers — she was demanding organic cotton long before most — her voice has a new resonance in this age of sustainability.
She’s even brought back her 1983 “Choose Life” slogan, which she plastered on a hoodie for spring. “The anti-abortion lobby nicked it — and now we’re nicking it back,” said Hamnett, who originally came up with the slogan as an antibattle, no-nukes cry in the Thatcher-ite era. A pink sweatshirt with the slogan “No More Fashion Victims” was another archive revival.
Hamnett’s mix included a magnified molecule pattern by the artist Jeffrey Pine on cotton denim trousers, boxy silk shirts and logo sweatshirts. She also made breezy button-front shirts using organic cotton muslin from Switzerland, and was particularly proud of the softness of the fabric.
The designer worked organic linen into a roomy baby blue Zoot suit and brought back a pair of faded flared jeans, the streetwear of the Seventies.

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Simon Porte Jacquemus on Showing Men’s in Marseille

PARIS — “Don’t wear heels,” said Simon Porte Jacquemus, who later today will show his first men’s collection on a secluded beach in one of the hidden bays of the Calanques, the rocky inlets around Marseille and nearby Cassis in the South of France. For the designer, who likes to go swimming in the remote spot, it’s “one of the best places on earth.”
“It’s a dream. You don’t feel like you’re in Marseille anymore. It feels like Greece, it’s so spectacular, with the rocks and the azure waters,” he said.
So what about the seating? “Blue towels. The set will be so pure: just blue towels on a huge beach,” added Jacquemus.
As the latest designer to stage an event in the South of France, following Louis Vuitton and Gucci’s recent cruise shows in Saint-Paul de Vence and Arles, respectively, the maverick talent, whose sun-soaked universe is deeply inspired by his upbringing in Provence, is cognizant that setting a show some 500 miles from Paris, the day after Europe’s men’s season wraps, is a tad cheeky. But — even if it was a logistical nightmare securing access to the remote site — he wouldn’t have it any other way.
Besides, Jacquemus has never

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Industry Adapts to Shifting Milan Men’s Fashion Week

MILAN — A shrinking show calendar, currency volatility and macro economic issues at the tail end of a period of local political instability following Italy’s general elections were only some of the concerns weighing on executives on the eve of Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
But on the upside, business is chugging along steadily. Revenues generated by the fashion sector last year grew 2.5 percent to 64.8 billion euros, and exports rose 4.3 percent to 50 billion euros, according to Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s Fashion Economic Trends report issued in May. The first half is expected to show 1.5 percent growth in sales compared with the same period last year. Last week, the updated Altagamma Worldwide Market Monitor and Bain & Co. study painted a pretty picture, as the global personal luxury goods industry is expected to grow 6 to 8 percent at constant exchange compared with the 5 percent growth forecast last October for 2018.
“Everyone is hoping to see a modicum of stability, which would allow us to set goals in the medium-term, invest in three-year plans without this sense of anxiety hovering over us,” said Paolo Roviera, chief executive officer of Corneliani. Roviera admitted that business had been affected in the first

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Hermès Men’s Spring 2019

Véronique Nichanian showed a younger, sexier side to the Hermès man.
The designer continued with the athletic references, her take on the elevated lifestyle. The tailored jogging pant added to the man-on-the-move mood, revisited in different colors including light yellows blended with a sharply tailored blazer. The tennis-style short shorts added to the retro athletic undertone of the collection.
The on-trend three-button leather suit in a light shade of stone, worn without a shirt, showed a new sensuality.
Adding to details like the prints and the draping of the clothing, the collection’s color palette, with the combination of shades moving from saturated tones to pastels, was beautiful.
An enlarged camouflage print on a sweatshirt had a painterly Cubist feel, with hippy-luxe tie-dye bags playing off the collection’s bright colors.
Also standout were the silky blousons with side zippers, at times gathered at the back, and a look combining a bottle-green track pant with a bold blue and white side stripe and a super-thin graphic sweater with a zipper.
The elegant fine knits with ripple accents or python effects were  dreamy in a collection that exuded pure luxe fashion.

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Sneakers Rule Men’s Fashion. Even Ugly Sneakers

This past week’s men’s fashion shows in Milan have underlined the sneaker’s continued reign in menswear.
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Rochas Names Federico Curradi to Head Men’s Fashion

Rochas has named a new creative director for its men’s wear activity, which it put on hold last year after only two seasons.
The Interparfums-owned fashion house said Italian designer Federico Curradi will be charged with bringing “a new attitude” to Rochas men’s wear going forward. The brand is expected to relaunch in January 2019.
“I am sure Rochas can find its own place in the men’s wear industry and Federico has the talent to bring Rochas to a next level,” stated Interparfums Group and Rochas chief executive officer Philippe Benacin.
Curradi, a native of Florence, launched his own men’s wear label, which shows in Milan, in January 2016 at Pitti Uomo. The designer, who lives in the Florentine countryside, is also creative director of outerwear specialist Peuterey. Born in Florence in 1975, after living in New York for several years he moved back to Italy, first working at Ermanno Daelli, then as head of the men’s styling office at Ermanno Scervino and later becoming head of the men’s collection of Roberto Cavalli in 2005. A year later, he began working at Iceberg on the company’s men’s wear as a consultant. He was also Iceberg’s first men’s wear creative director, succeeded by James

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424 Men’s Spring 2019

In his debut official showing to the press, Los Angeles-based streetwear designer Guillermo Andrade wanted to talk about more than just fashion. Referencing what he described as a decaying interpretation of Americana, Andrade sought to question the American Dream in the context of current events — as a Guatemalan immigrant to the U.S., he has firsthand experience of situations similar to those that have hit the headlines in recent weeks — and the prevailing preppy vision of American ideals.
One hoodie featured a blurred print of an abandoned Detroit school with the Stars and Stripes turned upside down in the foreground. Another theme showed haunting pictures of a decaying theater in a dusty color palette inspired by Detroit.
The basics — printed T-shirts, simple yet well executed hoodies, denim items — were stonewashed or given a hand-painted feel that transmitted the same message in a more subtle fashion.
Elsewhere, Andrade brought in new shapes and techniques for spring that have been enabled by producing certain pieces — a black leather shirt, another in black silk, pinstripe drawstring pants and matching worker’s shirt that are as close as he would like to get to suiting, or quirkier 3-D-printed silk chiffon check pants — in

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Paris Men’s Week: Ones to Watch

Cmmn Swdn, Boramy Viguier and GEYM figure among a selection of rising brands on the week’s official men’s calendar and presentation lineup. And Davide Marello, the former creative director of Boglioli, will unveil his latest project, Davi, which is heavy on printed shirts, in Paris on Thursday.
Undercover, which presented its fall 2018 men’s collection in one of the guests spots at Pitti Uomo in January, will also present on the official men’s calendar for the first time, along with Alyx, which was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2016. Check out a selection of the names set to present.

A shoe from the Cmmn brand. 
Dominique MAITRE

Cmmn Swdn
For their debut show on the official Paris Men’s Week calendar, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund are doing their bit to protest against the mountain of waste the fashion industry is sitting on; to slow things down again and get back to the roots of fashion.
The show is scheduled to take place Tuesday at the Les Ateliers, the École nationale supérieure de création industrielle, a French design school located in Paris’ 11th arrondissement.
Founded in 2012 in Malmo, Sweden, Cmmn Swdn is based between Sweden and London where it showed for six seasons before moving to present in

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2019

With all of the week’s obsessions with everything from the new brand of streetwear to  wild prints and neons and Eighties and Nineties nostalgia, Giorgio Armani proved a welcoming relief from the trend chasing.
This was the Maestro in his element, a moment of softness and simplicity, taking the audience to a far-off place. The super-elegant collection – centered around the double-breasted jacket – catered to the languid lifestyle of a global nomad traveling around the world, pulling on myriad references but with a cohesiveness and coziness to his wardrobe.
Playing with proportions, the designer channeled an elegant gentleman – or at times gentleman farmer – off duty, albeit interpreted through an urban lens, with a palette of mineral colors. With straw hats, fedoras and leather espadrilles among the accessories, Armani focused on his signature super-soft constructions, from gaucho-style oversized pants worn with stitched leather waistcoats over long-sleeved T-shirts to suede safari jackets, printed silk pajamas with digitalized ikat-style prints and those double-breasted jackets, most with peak lapels and all in the relaxed silhouette the designer made iconic.
A look combining crisp cotton pants worn with suspenders and patterned knitwear was another pure Eighties Armani moment, but felt timeless.
Even the unconstructed double-breasted linen suits

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Spring 2019

FIRST PRADA: “Any time spent in Italy is well spent,” said American actor Nick Robinson at his first Prada show, although for the moment his time in the country was limited to the Italian designer’s event. His summer included “traveling a couple of weeks in the Northwest [of the U.S.], a beautiful area, with as many adventures as I can, but I have no plans yet — I just want to be spontaneous.” Prada tapped Robinson for its most recent 365 campaign, and the actor, seen in Greg Berlanti’s 2018 film “Love, Simon,” said attending the show was “a rare, unique experience,” as he rarely attends fashion shows. “It’s such a fascinating world, and whenever I get the opportunity, I usually take it.”
American actor and singer Algee Smith, also in Prada’s campaign, was equally star-struck. “This is my first show, I’m super excited.” He said that shooting the campaign — his first ever — was “nothing like I expected, we were in a warehouse and there was such an adrenaline rush…” The artist said his next album is coming out, as well as the movie “The Hate U Give,” expected to be released in October. Directed by George Tillman Jr.

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Canali Men’s Spring 2019

For his first collection at Canali, Hyun Wook Lee evolved the storied sartorial tradition of the brand with good taste and sophistication—and an impressive color palette that spanned from powder pink and ice gray to brick red and deep ocean blue. He called the collection “Lui,” or “Him” in English, and presented it at Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology, dividing it in four sections: Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration.
In a nod to comfort, Equilibrium blended formal and casual wear, with sartorial wool, linen and silk blends used in sportswear. The designer re-elaborated the Canali name with a graphic play as an all-over print on the cotton-linen button-up shirts and the silk ties.
In the Dynamism room, colors were bolder, ranging from green to burnt sienna. The button-up shirts were styled as jackets, and cotton chinos were worn under jersey knits and over sneakers in a houndstooth fabric.
In the third section, Steadiness – which may also serve as Canali’s mantra, as the company stays the course without treading too far from its core values and without alienating its existing customers – blazers were feather-light and deconstructed to only two layers of canvas.
The lineup in the Inspiration room was meant to point

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MP Massimo Piombo Men’s Spring 2019

Gearing up for his debut collection as creative director of Italian retailer OVS’ men’s line for the fall 2019 season, Massimo Piombo for his namesake line stayed on course with a compact collection of silhouettes and assembling a cocktail of references from around the globe.
The designer layered old school blazers over vibrant cotton tunics in printed fabrics hailing from far-flung destinations like South Africa and Sri Lanka. Playing on contrasts, a traditional check was used on a technical coat, while a black raincoat was cut from a pure mohair cloth typically used for suiting.
Offering a more bohemian direction were tonal looks pairing a vibrant red and black striped spin on a cricket jacket with a patterned silk scarf worn on the waist, like a cummerbund, and a navy blazer with a striped Scandinavian marine knit or a yellow silk shirt — looks capturing the distinctive panache and sense of color for which Piombo is known.

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IMG Launches Men’s Division in Milan

MILAN — And then IMG Models created the man.
The Italian branch of the international model agency has launched a men’s division, elevating IMG Models as global agency offering both men’s and women’s representation services in all of its offices, located in key cities as New York, Los Angeles, London, Sydney and Paris, along with Milan.
Established in April — following the launch in Paris just a few months before — the opening of the men’s division in Italy reflects the company’s investment in the European market and it’s aimed to better serve regional clients and partners with localized support.
“We definitely opened some years late, but the fact is IMG’s men’s division reopened four years ago and we launched New York first, through a small staff, to see if there were the premises to do well there, which is still the most important market in terms of volume,” said Andrea Cairo, managing director of IMG Models Italy.
Cairo explained that after New York, the first European men’s division debuted in London, and the company preferred to consolidate its position in those two locations “and understand if a presence was necessary in Italy and France, both for models and our clients.”
Another delaying aspect was

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Amid Men’s Wear Hype, Thoughtful Basics Are Making Noise, Too

It’s all about simplicity.
At a time when streetwear is dominating the conversation in the world of men’s fashion, there are a number of brands that are quietly building sizable businesses selling updated basics to guys who don’t live and die for the latest Supreme drop or Virgil Abloh sneaker collaboration.
Brands such as Buck Mason, Everlane, Goodlife and Huckberry are making inroads selling these items, which could be labeled “everyday casualwear” or “essentials.”
In years past, their customers probably bought their chinos, T-shirts and hoodies in department stores or specialty retailers such as Gap or Banana Republic. But today, they’re increasingly seeking out other options and spending their money on brands they feel better address their needs.
“They offer simple solutions,” said Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer of WSL, a global strategy consultancy. “When you look at all the new businesses that are cropping up, they address the fundamental issue in the industry, which is that men are looking for something reasonable to wear that is comfortable and stylish.”
Liebmann believes the “increased lack of service” at department and large specialty stores, coupled with the “enormous” assortment offered “without curation,” is what is driving men to indie brands that are trend-right but not overwhelming.

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Case Studies: Men’s Retailers on Adapting to the Changing Climate

Soto Store
It’s all about street cred, which is not surprising in this city that lives and breathes streetwear. But what’s made Berlin’s Soto Store stand out from the start was its “accessible mix of street culture and fashion. Getting high-end labels such as Raf Simon, Dries Van Noten, Thom Browne or Acne into this mix was new. And in today’s high-fashion world, that’s what everyone now wants to do,” commented Andreas Koschnike, chief executive officer of Caliroots Group, the Stockholm-based streetwear and sneaker group that bought Soto two years ago.
Koschnike is “friends from way back” with Highsnobiety’s David Fischer, who together with fashion and media movers Philip Gaedicke and Omer Ben Michael opened Soto in 2010 on Torstrasse, still a somewhat off the beaten shopping path in Mitte. “Since I took over, and with 15 years of Caliroots experience under our belts, we’re primarily trying to strengthen operations,” he said. This involves logistics, the buying process and running the online store, “which has surpassed the physical store, though the store remains a big part of our story,” he said.
What he’s not out to change is Soto’s DNA, often described as a blend of tradition and new invention, and which he sums

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Nordstrom Snags Mr Porter’s Sam Lobban for New Men’s Role

Men’s wear continues to be a key focus for Nordstrom.
Two months after opening its first men’s-only store in New York City, Nordstrom has named Mr Porter executive Sam Lobban vice president of men’s designer and new concepts.
This new position is intended to “evolve the retailer’s men’s business,” the company said, and will support men’s merchandising, marketing, content development, store environment, private label and the shopping experience as it relates to men’s wear.
Lobban’s first day will be Tuesday and he will be based in New York. He will report to Pete Nordstrom, copresident of Nordstrom, with a dotted line to Paige Thomas, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear.
Jeffrey Kalinsky, Nordstrom’s vice president and designer fashion director, introduced Pete Nordstrom to Lobban about a year ago, saying: “Here is a talented person you need to meet.”
For three years, Lobban has been buying manager for Mr Porter — the U.K. equivalent of divisional merchandise manager. He has been with the men’s division of Net-a-porter for seven years, starting as a member of the launch team and serving as senior buyer and buyer over the course of his career.
During his tenure, he was responsible for overseeing the Exclusive Capsule Collection

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Qasimi Men’s Spring 2019

Khalid Qasimi’s nomad packed up his tent and continued to wander — and what a journey it was. Filled with chunky V-neck sweaters, roomy layers and laid-back, tailored separates, the collection was a refreshing alternative to the glut of streetwear on so many European catwalks.
Qasimi has always been a romantic, looking to history and human relationships for his bohemian-edged collections: This season his washed ikat prints on boxy shirts were inspired by maps and markers inside old archaeological guides while heartbreaking slogans, such as “We are so different now,” appeared on shirts or the edges of jackets.
The designer likes to refer to his collections as “a broad range of wardrobe staples for the constant traveler,” but they are so much more. Colored, woven ties — like bracelets sold on Europe’s street corners and beaches — appeared as drawstrings on oversize hoodie tops, fluid, tracksuit-style trousers, or as skinny belts cinching the back of loose navy or khaki tailored jackets.
The designer worked heavy, washed denim into oversize trousers with low-slung waists, and plied an equally hefty workwear cotton fabric into patchwork trousers and bombers in shades like cornflower, buttercup, olive and stone. Those colors came from a bigger palette that also took

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Daniel Fletcher Men’s Spring 2019

For spring 2019, Daniel Fletcher reworked the classic suit through his personal lens. He expressed his frustrations with the more restrictive business side of running his label with a collection featuring classic tailoring that was shredded, corseted and had dark overtones of a debaucherous weekend.
‘I have this feeling of restraint because there are so many restrictions with running my label that I wanted to break free,’ Fletcher said. ‘I like this idea of this businessman who’s gone out for a wild weekend after an 80-hour week. I wanted it to feel sadistic like where did he end up on this Friday night out.”
He subverted traditional menswear including suit jackets, slim trousers, shirts and leather jackets in its finishes – an exposed lining hanging out of the suit, slashes on the backs of the legs and rope detailing that bound seams together. There was a strong sense of angst and a need for freedom in the collection, which was juxtaposed with a poetic restraint – corsets atop shirts and wrapped around suits, as well as leather halter-tops that fitted like a second skin.
Fletcher collaborated with artist Caitlin Keogh for the prints seen on his silk shirts, featuring female torsos bound by

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New York Men’s Dates to Move to June in 2019

Don’t get too attached to the July dates for New York Fashion Week: Men’s — they’re changing.
Starting next year, the Council of Fashion Designers of America will shift the dates for the spring men’s shows to the first week in June. This will not only coincide with the fledgling New York women’s resort season, but will also allow American designers to show before their European counterparts.
London has historically kicked off the spring season with shows that start this year on Saturday. That’s followed by Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan and Paris. For six seasons, NYFW: Men’s has brought up the rear with shows in mid-July.
But a successful mega, 10-day, dual-gender fashion week this past February has prompted the shift starting in 2019.
“The July timing is problematic for a lot of brands,” said Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “So this will be the last NYFW: Men’s in July.”
In February, he said, the men’s shows will once again be timed to run on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday before the women’s calendar starts on Thursday. ”It worked really well,” he said. But the spring shows will now start before London.
“The designers are really

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Men’s Trend 2018: All the Right Moves

Aerodynamic constructions and performance fabrics give classic men’s briefs a freewheeling élan.

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Men’s Wear Veteran Don Witkowski Dies at 66

Don Witkowski, who held key positions in men’s wear for several high-profile brands including Michael Kors and John Varvatos, died Monday morning at his home in Water Mill, N.Y. He was 66.
The cause of death was glioblastoma, which was diagnosed in March, according to his husband, Robert Wallace.
Witkowski worked in the men’s industry for more than a quarter-century, holding stints at Barneys New York, Merona, Jeffrey Banks, Polo Jeans, DKNY, Nautica and John Varvatos. He spent two tours of duty with Michael Kors, most recently as president of the company’s men’s division.
Ironically, a dozen of Witkowski’s best industry friends met for dinner on Sunday night in hopes of connecting with him one last time. Attendees included Varvatos, Banks and Mindy Grossman, now chief executive officer of Weight Watchers.
“We knew Don was in the last stages of life,” Banks said, “and we thought if we could all get together for dinner, we could use an iPad to tell him how much we loved him.”
Unfortunately, Witkowski was too ill to participate, Banks said. “So we all got together to grieve and tell stories about Don. It was quite wonderful — we laughed and we cried, but we celebrated him.”
Banks said he met

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Gucci Taps Harry Styles for its Fall Men’s Tailoring Ad Campaign

SIGN OF THE TIMES: Harry Styles is the latest addition to the Gucci gang.
The British singer and actor was tapped by the fashion house to front the advertising campaign of its fall 2018 tailoring collection.
Lensed by Glen Luchford with art direction by Christopher Simmonds, the images portray Styles in a fish-and-chip shop in northern London posing with animals including chickens and dogs.
The musician is pictured in a variety of Gucci tailored outfits, combining formal shirt and ties with buttoned-up casual shirts and accessories such as rings, necklaces and brooches.

Harry Styles in Gucci’s men’s tailoring ad campaign. 
Glen Luchford

Looks include a teal checked three-piece suit with bees as decorative motifs; a blue-and-beige macro gingham dressing gown worn as a coat over a pinstripe double-breasted suit, and a grey wool option embellished with patches featuring the insignia of the NY Yankees baseball team. Moccassins, sandals and sneakers complete the outfits.

Harry Styles in Gucci’s men’s tailoring ad campaign. 
Glen Luchford

Flanking the images, a short clip also directed by Luchford shows the musician heading to the local chippy with his pet chicken and queuing to order some food.
Previewed on Gucci’s Instagram account, the campaign breaks this month across all media.
The musician’s predecessors in the role included

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9 Insider Men’s Style Tips From Neo-Soul Singer Leon Bridges

The musician—known for his superior fashion sense—on where to buy the best white T-shirts, affordable gold watches and pieces that will set you apart from the pack.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATE:

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Phoebe English to Combine Men’s, Women’s Shows in June

TWO BECOME ONE: Phoebe English is the latest designer to take the coed route. The designer plans to combine her men’s and women’s presentations starting next month at London Fashion Week Men’s.
“I think the main thing is to take control of schedules and time,” said English. “Combining the shows will give us a longer lead time to develop designs in between seasons,” she said.
English will stage her first coed presentation on Sunday, June 10 from 9:30 to 11:30 a.m.
Financial considerations also influenced her decision. The designer commented on the close proximity between the London men’s and women’s fashion weeks and said that both economically and creatively it has been a big strain.
“I want to give the team enough time between shows to rest and recover for the next one. It will give us more freedom to develop creatively and to develop our relationships with our factories and fabric mills,” said English.
English is the latest British designer to combine her men’s and women’s shows. She is following the lead of Paul Smith, J.W. Anderson and Burberry.
Although her men’s and women’s collections will be consolidated, the arrangement will not change her design directive. “The personalities will remain the same, the men’s wear collection is a lot

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L.A.-Based Mother Denim to Add Men’s Range in Ron Herman, Online

Mother denim, the eight-year-old Los Angeles-based premium denim brand, is adding men to the mix. Launching next week, the 10-piece collection ranges in price from $ 95 to $ 325 retail.
“Men’s has always been something we’ve wanted to do and it was more a matter of ‘when’ rather than ‘what if.’ After developing our women’s Mother Superior line, which is based loosely on men’s vintage fits and fabrics, launching men’s was a natural evolution,” said Tim Kaeding, cofounder and creative director of Mother.
The Made in L.A. line has long borrowed from the boys for its women’s designs, from the early boyfriend jeans and denim shirts, to the unisex Love Your Other collection to its most recent line, Mother Superior, which is known for oversize silhouettes. Keading’s extensive personal collection of men’s denim, as well as other men’s jeans, patterns and fabrics have figured into all of the pieces.
The men’s line includes three jean silhouettes in four washes, all inspired by libations and the bar scene: The Joint (a skinny jean), The Neat (tapered straight leg) and The Chaser (a universal straight). There’s also a denim jacket and shirt, a twill trouser, a graphic printed shirt, plain and logo T-shirts, and a zip

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Stella McCartney Joins Milan Men’s Fashion Week

MILAN – Stella McCartney is headed to Milan.
The designer will present her women’s resort 2019 and men’s spring 2019 collections in a presentation to be held on the last day of Milan Fashion Week, running June 15 to 18.
The label’s presentation will be held from 8 to 11 p.m., while details on the location have yet to be disclosed.
McCartney won’t be the only designer presenting women’s wear during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. Alberta Ferretti will also join the men’s calendar debuting her new resort 2019 and Limited Edition collections on June 15.
The show will take place at the Sala delle Cariatidi venue – located on the main floor of the central Palazzo Reale building – starting from 6:30 p.m. Divided in two parts, the event will first showcase the resort 2019 range, followed by evening and cocktail gowns from the fashion house’s demi-couture line.

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Iceberg to Show Men’s Spring Collection in London

LONDON BOUND:  Iceberg goes to the U.K.
The Italian contemporary brand, controlled by manufacturing company Gilmar, is showing its men’s spring 2019 collection during London Collections: Men.
The runway show will take place on June 8 in a still undisclosed location.
Along with unveiling its latest men’s effort, creative director James Long will also showcase a selection of looks from Iceberg women’s pre-fall lineup.
Long joined the Iceberg men’s division in November 2015 and then, in August 2016, he was tapped by the brand to succeed Arthur Arbesser at the helm of the women’s line.
Last February, Iceberg presented its women’s fall collection, along with a few looks from the men’s range, with a runway show in the streets of Milan.

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B Corner Brings Spanish Twist to Luxury Men’s Line

The team behind B Corner is an eclectic group, but while their backgrounds may be different, they’re all committed to creating a luxury men’s clothing brand that is a Spanish alternative to the English and Italian labels currently dominating the market.
As the story goes, Spanish nobleman Jaime de Marichalar y Saénz de Tejada, the former son-in-law of King Juan Carlos of Spain and a board member of Loewe and Dior, was in search of a new suit maker when his longtime tailor, Antonio Diaz, passed away about four years ago.
He happened upon Goyo Fernández, a custom tailor and owner of a men’s boutique in Madrid who was already working with Federico Zanolla, an entrepreneur and a banker, on a new tailoring concept.
Marichalar asked Fernández to make suits for him, the three men soon became friends and decided to work together to create a new business that they called B Corner.
They solicited internationally known model Oriol Elcacho, recognizable for his work for Ralph Lauren and other well-known fashion brands, along with actor Diego Martin to be the faces of the brand. And they were on their way.
“I became friends with Federico in Madrid and I started wearing the clothes to events

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Clothing up to 40% Off at SportChek! Restrictions may apply. Offer ends 04/17/2018. Shop now!

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Clothing up to 40% Off at SportChek! Restrictions may apply. Offer ends 04/17/2018. Shop now!

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Clothing up to 40% Off at SportChek! Restrictions may apply. Offer ends 04/17/2018. Shop now!

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10 Men’s Clothing Subscription Boxes Every Guy Should Try

Let these subscription services do the shopping for you.
Style and Beauty – Fashion News, Celebrity Style and Fashion Trends
FASHION NEWS UPDATE-Visit Shoe Deals Online today for the hottest deals online for shoes!

Corridor Men’s Sportswear Fetes NoLIta Store

Creating a fashion collection is a far cry from working for the Federal Bureau of Investigation, but that’s the journey Dan Snyder took with his men’s brand, Corridor.
Snyder started his business career as an independent contractor for the government agency but hated the way his suits fit. So he borrowed his aunt’s vintage Kenmore sewing machine and learned how to sew. He started making shirts in his East Village walk-up in New York and decided to take a booth at the Capsule show to test the waters. He wrote orders with 12 independent men’s wear stores from that one rack in 2013 and was on his way.
Today, Corridor, which Snyder refers to as “new American sportswear [that] melds Northeastern prep with New York City’s modern sensibility,” is now carried in 90 stores in the U.S. and internationally including Stag, Unionmade and others that serve a contemporary men’s shopper. The line has also grown to include jackets, pants, shorts, accessories and a small women’s wear component.
And on Thursday, the company will host a party at its store on Mott Street in NoLIta to introduce the brand to press and influencers.
“We’ve grown organically since we started,” Snyder said. “And we believe it

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Hermès Converts N.Y. Men’s Store Into Record Shop

NEW YORK — Hermès has gotten the memo.
The French luxury brand has taken the movement toward experiential retailing to the next level, completely transforming its men’s store here into a vinyl record store for 10 days.
On Thursday night, the Madison Avenue emporium debuted Silk Mix, an art installation centered around music that has already been showcased in Madrid and Rome and now makes its way into the U.S.
“It’s all about silk and music,” said Robert Chavez, chief executive officer of Hermès. The concept was the brainchild of Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of Hermès men’s wear, and Christophe Goineau, creative director of men’s silk. They worked with Thierry Planelle, who has curated music for the company’s men’s shows for the last 15 years, to bring the idea to life.
The main floor was reworked to replicate an old-fashioned record store with bins of albums on display and a bank of turntables to give them a spin. But these albums had an Hermès twist: each of the covers sported a different silk design from the men’s assortment. “There are 225 styles and 53 different patterns,” Chavez said. “And you can pick your favorite and then play it.”

The album covers were all created from

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On the Runway: Men’s Wear Just Had a Huge Designer Reshuffle: What Does It Mean?

With Kris Van Assche’s appointment at Berluti, LVMH completes a designer game of musical chairs that puts a premium on contemporary and cool.
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EXCLUSIVE: Aquazzura to Launch Men’s Line, Lifestyle-Oriented Concept

DUBAI — Edgardo Osorio, creator of the luxury footwear brand Aquazzura, has big plans for his company. Here to celebrate the opening of his flagship in the region, he revealed that he aims to launch a men’s line within the next 18 months.
“It’s going to be modern, elegant leisure,” said Osorio. “I expect at least 50 percent will be sneakers. But sneakers you can wear to the office with a suit.”
Osorio said there is a gap in the market for men’s. “Men’s right now is either too fashion or too conservative; there isn’t a lot in between. As a man who travels for work all over the world, I find it difficult to find things I like. I end up getting one thing here, one thing there. But generally men don’t shop like that. They prefer a one-stop shop.” Osorio is confident he can fill that need. “If you have a brand that offers modern shoes at a competitive price point that feel comfortable and are young and have that elegance to them in a casual way, that will be a winning element.”
He said the brand also plans to launch a more “lifestyle-oriented project.” This, he said, will take priority over

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Men’s Wear Movers

The men’s market continues to boom — but who’s driving it? Here, a look at the dozen people and brands setting the direction in the market today.
 
1. Yeezy
The influence of Kanye West spreads far and wide and it has for a while, but the fruits of his labor — whether ranting to be taken seriously by the fashion establishment or demanding more opportunities at Nike — are starting to materialize in a rare way. He’s helped mentor Virgil Abloh, who got the shot at Nike that West always wanted and will lead Louis Vuitton men’s; Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo, who is also set to work with Nike and continues to grow his brand, and designer Heron Preston, who’s becoming the go-to guy for musical artists wanting to build excitement around their merchandise.
And then there’s the power of his own brand, Yeezy, which he creates in partnership with Adidas. During 2017, West avoided formal public appearances, but his collection was still very active and popular. He released three new footwear models: the Calabasas Powerphase, the Waverunner 700 and the Yeezy 500s. And on the apparel side, he churned out a Calabasas capsule collection and released Yeezy Season 5. But after

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Sise Men’s Fall 2018

Name: Sise
Main message: Seishin Matsui went for a mix of cool and preppy, with biker jackets and long coats sharing the runway with cuffed jeans and button-downs worn under sweatshirts. Athletic influences were plentiful, with slim track pants, relaxed joggers, Windbreakers and loose-fitting shorts — some with legs of uneven lengths — making multiple appearances. While the majority of the collection was turned out in black, white or deep shades of green and burgundy, a few looks in the middle had an almost summery feel in pastels or yellow and blue checks. 
The result: While the silhouettes consisted of classic shapes and Matsui didn’t do much to put his own spin on them, it was a solid showing from a brand that hasn’t staged a runway show in over four years.

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Louis Vuitton Names Virgil Abloh as Its New Men’s Wear Designer

In Mr. Abloh, Louis Vuitton has hired its first African-American designer and a street wear specialist for its growing luxury men’s line.
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Wewill Men’s Fall 2018

Name: Wewill
Main message: A year after launching his brand, Hidetaka Fukuzono staged his first runway show in an underground nightclub, with the models walking through narrow corridors and square rooms. It was a collection heavy on outerwear, with a variety of coats in wool tweed, shearling, nylon, leather and more. Fukuzono employed unconventional layering, showing denim jackets under bombers or plush jackets, and pajamas under suit jackets or robe-like coats.
The result: While there wasn’t much originality in the shapes, Fukuzono added interest with his mix of rich, contrasting textures, resulting in slightly elevated basics that were casual and comfortable.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2018

After a two-year hiatus, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii returned to Tokyo’s fashion week with an effortlessly cool offering that mixed dandy with outdoorsy and streetwear with tailoring. A teal blue velour suit was worn with a funnel-neck shirt and sneakers, while a plush fleece pullover topped slick patent pants in pale pink.
In what was perhaps an acknowledgement of the fact that they already have some female customers, the designers also played with traditional gender norms, sending one woman down the runway and incorporating details normally only seen in women’s collections. Shirts and a trenchcoat that seemed relatively pedestrian from the front — aside from the fact that they had no openings — were shown to be completely backless. And card holder-sized patent leather pouches were worn as tiny, colorful cross-body bags.
Osumi and Yoshii, who style their collections themselves, are known for their clever layering, but this time they often did it in a single piece. Puffer jackets had a second, cropped layer on top, while cargo pocket arm bands and half vests were attached to sweatshirts and coats. Some suit jackets and down coats had exaggerated kangaroo pockets at the front.
In a season that has been lacking in strong men’s brands —

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Players to watch in the NCAA men’s hockey tournament

It’s tournament time in college hockey. Chris Peters gets you ready for the opening regional rounds (March 23-25) with a full preview and a look at some of the more exciting players to watch, many of whom project as future impact NHLers.
www.espn.com – NHL

Ranking the ultimate lineups in NCAA men’s hockey history

With the 2018 tournament upon us, we look at the legacy of college hockey’s top programs — some involved in this year’s bracket, some in a down cycle — and rank the ultimate lineups for them, based on the players’ success at the NHL level.
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Dior Taps Jones as Creative Renewal Hits Men’s Wear

PARIS — The arrival of Kim Jones as artistic director of ready-to-wear and accessory collections at Dior Homme signals that leading luxury brands are reshuffling their decks to keep pace with the red-hot streetwear sector, industry observers said.
The surprise move marked the first big decision by Pietro Beccari since he took over as chairman and chief executive officer at Christian Dior Couture six weeks ago, after stints at Fendi and Louis Vuitton.
Jones, who succeeds Kris Van Assche in the post, is seen as one of a handful of marquee designers who can straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds. Previously, men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton, the British designer made a splash with his collaboration with New York-based streetwear brand Supreme; artists such as Jake and Dinos Chapman, and cult brands Fragment Design and Christopher Nemeth.
Jones, who starts April 1, is set to present his first collection for Dior Homme in June. Van Assche exits Dior Homme after leading the brand for 11 years and is expected to take up a new assignment within LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
“I am delighted to welcome Kim Jones, with whom I had the chance to collaborate previously at Louis Vuitton,” Beccari told WWD. “I admire

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Printemps Inaugurates Men’s Accessories Floor

PARIS — The missing piece of the Printemps men’s building, Printemps de l’Homme, is in place with the inauguration today of the store’s men’s accessories department on the ground floor. The men’s footwear space remains on the site’s fifth floor.
Measuring around 22,000 square feet, the contemporary Wilmotte & Associés-designed space features a light gray marble floor and wood and copper furniture interspersed with multicolored Perspex units.

A view of the new Printemps de l’Homme accessories department. 
MANUEL BOUGOT

The department boasts a number of brand exclusives and corners by labels including Gucci, Prada, Valentino, Loewe, Longchamp, David Yurman and cutting-edge speaker brand, Devialet.
Dedicated areas include urban leather goods, with items by brands such as Want Les Essentiels, Rue de Verneuil and Bonastre; belts, by specialist labels including Maison Boinet and L’Aiglon, and hats, with collections by Stetson, Borsalino and Super Duper, to name but a few.
The retailer’s Au Printemps Paris private label is also present across the categories.
Boutiques by Montblanc and Christian Louboutin will open soon.
Spotlighting brands specializing in artisanal know-how, a section called Le Masculin Singulier, or Masculine Singularity in English, showcases goods by 30 labels from across seven countries, with prices ranging from 50 euros to 3,000 euros. On display are leather goods

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Speaker Lineup Set for Men’s Summit on March 27

From international e-commerce firms and luxury powerhouses to popular American start-ups and trend-setters in the red-hot streetwear arena, the WWD Men’s Wear Summit will take on a wide variety of issues impacting the men’s wear industry today.
The all-day event will take place on March 27 at The New School’s Parsons School of Design at 66 Fifth Avenue in New York. It will provide a thought-provoking agenda as well as a networking opportunity for executives in fashion, retail and e-commerce.
Among those committed to speak are Chad Kessler, global brand president of American Eagle Outfitters. Kessler, who also oversees the company’s Todd Snyder brand, will take on the issue of creating new brand experiences at retail to drive customer engagement.
In his 18 years with Adidas, Nic Galway, vice president of global design for Adidas Originals & Style, has been responsible for creating some of the brand’s highest-profile collaborations, including those with Stella McCartney, Y-3 with Yohji Yamamoto and, most recently, Kanye West.
Fokke de Jong, founder and chief executive officer of Suitsupply, has not shied away from controversy since starting the Amsterdam-based men’s tailored clothing retail firm in 2000. Most recently, the company’s ads featuring a same-sex couple resulted in an international firestorm

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OVS Taps Massimo Piombo to Refresh Its Men’s Offering

Massimo Piombo is the new artistic director of Italian retailer OVS’ men’s line.
During a press conference held Thursday in Milan to present the capsule realized by the company in collaboration with Kendall and Kylie Jenner, OVS chief executive officer Stefano Beraldo said the designer will overlook the development of the retailer’s men’s wear offering, which will be enlarged with the creation of a still-unnamed “upper casual” line featuring retail prices 30 percent higher than regular products.
The collaboration with Piombo will start with the fall 2019 season.
The same strategy aimed at dressing customers looking for more design-oriented and high-quality products will be extended to the women’s division, which will continue to be guided by OVS fashion director Caterina Salvador.
The new labels will be sold in dedicated areas inside OVS stores and online.

A look from the Kendall + Kylie for OVS collection. 
Courtesy Photo

“My real ambition is to continue serving customers of every age and spending power, which means being also able to fit the needs of those who look for higher quality,” said Beraldo. “And actually, we can definitely make products with a higher value with prices that are just a little bit higher and always accessible.”
At the same time, Beraldo revealed

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Perry Ellis Signs License for Men’s Underwear in South Korea

South Korea has been top-of-mind this month thanks to its hosting of the 2018 Winter Olympics. And now Perry Ellis International is hoping to outfit the citizens in its underwear and loungewear.
In a new licensing deal, PEI has partnered with Good People Co. Ltd for men’s underwear and loungewear under the Perry Ellis Portfolio trademark in South Korea. The product launch is planned for fall.   
“We are pleased to collaborate with Good People,” said Oscar Feldenkreis, chief executive officer and president of PEI. “We see great potential for growth in the South Korean market and are pleased to take these continued steps in our business expansion.” 
Yoon Woohwan, ceo of Good People, said his company will distribute the product in a variety of retail channels. Good People is a publicly traded South Korean company that manufactures and wholesales underwear and loungewear for men, women and children under the Bodyguard, James Dean and Don & Dons brands.

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Latest USA-Russia men’s hockey clash just like it always was … in the stands

The fans were as expected on Saturday: brash, chippy, frantic. Yes, it was Team USA against the Russians, and in the stands, it felt like it. On the ice, it was something less so.
www.espn.com – NHL

Asher Levine to Release Men’s Ready-to-Wear Collection

NEW YORK — Asher Levine is ready to bring his celebrity style to the masses.
The designer, who has dressed everyone from Lady Gaga and Whoopi Goldberg to Will.i.am and Bruno Mars, has created his first commercial ready-to-wear collection for fall.
The line will be shown by appointment during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, from Feb. 4 to 7, at a location on Orchard Street on the Lower East Side.
The shift in focus is part of a maturation of the label — which just snagged the women’s wear design award from Fashion Group International — that the now-29-year-old incorporated as a business in 2009.
“I started sewing as a kid,” said the Florida native during an interview at his Harlem studio, “and was president of the 4-H Silly Stitchers.” He moved to New York right after graduating from high school to attend Pace University’s business school, where he studied entrepreneurship. During college, he started working in the industry, for Geoffrey Beene and other companies, before receiving a call from Nicola Formichetti, stylist for Lady Gaga, who reached out to discuss Levine designing something for the entertainer.
He created an oversize leather biker jacket, and he was on his way.
A version of that jacket has

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DKNY Men’s Relaunch Covers All the Bases

G-III Apparel Group is going all in when it comes to the relaunch of DKNY men’s.
The $ 2.4 billion New York-based conglomerate purchased Donna Karan International, parent of the DKNY label, from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton for $ 650 million at the end of 2016.
The women’s DKNY collection was the first to debut under the new ownership arrangement, transitioning out of its more-widespread department store distribution to become exclusive with Macy’s for spring. The men’s wear will be sold at Macy’s along with Hudson’s Bay in Canada, Liverpool in Mexico and on the company’s web site.
The men’s collection has been absent from the market since fall 2015. For three seasons, DKNY was designed by Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School, but the designers focused on women’s apparel only. That arrangement ended after the G-III sale was finalized.
In May, G-III signed a multiyear licensing deal with PVH Corp. under which PVH will design and distribute DKNY men’s sportswear, dress shirts, neckwear and jeans in the U.S. and Canada. The company also produces belts and small leather goods.
The first collection will be for summer and will hit stores in the first week in April; the big push will be for fall,

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Retailers Bet Big at the Vegas Men’s Shows

LAS VEGAS — There are a lot of opportunities to capitalize on in the men’s market this year. While the industry tends to move more slowly than women’s, the continuing popularity of streetwear, heritage influences and technical fabrications are all understandable trends for the men’s shopper and are buoying the spirits of stores attending the Project, Liberty Fairs, Capsule and Agenda trade shows here this week.
Most men’s retailers are coming off a solid 2017 and believe that the fashion trends in the market will help them continue the momentum into this year.
As James Starke, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s for J.C. Penney, put it: “We had a good fourth quarter and are off to a good start in Q1. There’s a lot of newness in men’s and kids and we have a lot of new brands coming in, so we feel good for spring.”
Looking ahead to fall, Starke has similar optimism — albeit tempered with some caution.
“These shows have become a touch point for us and our suppliers,” he said. “They help validate what we’re doing for fall.”
Tom Ott, chief merchant for Saks Off 5th and Gilt, said he appreciated the shows, particularly Agenda and Liberty, for all the

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Styled by Spencer Pratt: How to Break Out of Men’s Wardrobe Rut

ESC: Spencer StylesSometimes, you just need to mix things up.
We all have our wardrobe uniforms: Kendall Jenner has her tinted tights, David Beckham has his tailored suits and Zayn Malik, well, everything…

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Styled by Spencer Pratt: How to Break Out of Men’s Wardrobe Rut

ESC: Spencer StylesSometimes, you just need to mix things up.
We all have our wardrobe uniforms: Kendall Jenner has her tinted tights, David Beckham has his tailored suits and Zayn Malik, well, everything…

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The Three Designers to Watch at New York Fashion Week: Men’s

Name: Willy Chavarria
Background: Chavarria, a Mexican-American, grew up in Huron, Calif., a small town near Fresno, and held design stints at Ralph Lauren and American Eagle Outfitters before starting Palmer Trading Co., his Made in the U.S. men’s wear line that leaned heavily toward workwear and was snapped up by Japanese retailers. Now he’s exclusively focused on his namesake assortment of men’s wear.
Inspiration this season: “Faith in humanity during dark times.”
Mentor or idol: “I love the work of film director Romain Gavras. I find a connection with it in my work.”
Goal: “I’d like to help us see ourselves in a new light.”
What’s your favorite secret spot in New York?: The lobby bar at Jolly Madison Towers Hotel on 38th and Madison Avenue.
 
Name: Emily Adams Bode
Background: Bode was born and raised in Atlanta, and spent her summers in New England, where she frequented antique shops and shows with her mother. Through that she was introduced to age-old techniques and fabrications. “I have always been drawn to hand-work, craft and labors of love,” the designer said. “The stories told through craft and the sense of the hand, the individual-maker, drew me to them.” Bode eventually moved to New York, where she graduated from Parsons

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Rite Aid – Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10

Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $ 15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $ 40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10
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Raf Simons Men’s Fall 2018

Raf Simons set up his own interpretation of a Flemish still-life painting — an opulent tableaux of fruits, red wine, loaves of bread and impressive flower arrangements — as the backdrop for his fall collection, titled “Youth in Motion.”
His inspiration this season was “Christiane F.,” the 1981 cult film directed by Uli Edel about the dangers and realities of drug addiction. “I thought he was going to put some pictures on T-shirts,” Edel said. “I didn’t realize the whole show was based on the film. It was a long time ago.”
Indeed. But Simons modernized the theatrical production by juxtaposing it with a driving techno soundtrack and colorful laser lights for that rave feel he loves so well.
The opening look — a boxy plaid coat with contrasting yellow lining over a deconstructed turtleneck with draping side panels and ultrafitted satin cargo pants — served to introduce his new silhouette.
The abundant tailored offering mirrored that silhouette with oversize blazers and skinny pants accessorized with elbow-high latex gloves.
While the theme of the show may have been dark, the use of bright colors including red, yellow, tangerine orange and purple helped to soften the mood.
Drug references surfaced both subtly, as patches on scarves and

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Fall 2018

Whistle while you work was a very apt description for Daisuke Obana this season. Never one to disappoint with his thematic collections, the N. Hoolywood designer presented a distinct, upbeat take on classic workwear for his fall collection.
Obana took some true staples — overalls in safety orange, wide-leg cargo pants and denim trucker jackets with oversized patch pockets — and gave them a youthful spin.
Volume played a key role as well, in beige coats with wide lapels, a yellow elongated hooded sweater and wide-leg trousers.
A surprise addition was the unveiling of his collaboration with Timberland Pro, the brand’s collection for true laborers. Obana tapped some real New York construction workers to model the line of authentic workwear and footwear. With their well-worn hard hats, which were adorned with stickers from various construction sites around the city, they helped end the show on a high note.

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Rite Aid – Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10

Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $ 15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $ 40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10
Code: no code needed
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Project Elevates Partnership With NYFW: Men’s

Project continued to make its presence known at New York Fashion Week: Men’s by hosting a presentation for Michael Bastian, W.R.K., Faherty and M. Singer, four brands that often show within the Tents, the designer section of the trade show.
Project also hosted several other labels during the morning and afternoon sessions of New York Men’s Day.
Tommy Fazio, men’s fashion director of UBM Fashion, who hand-selected each brand, said this is the latest initiative in the company’s move to support American talent. It’s also an evolution of UBM Fashion’s new partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America that promotes the growth of emerging talent and the fashion industry as a whole.
“We are thrilled to have the platform outside of the trade-show floor in New York to champion men’s wear talent who represent the best of American designers. Having had the privilege of working with each designer at Project, we are excited to assist in presenting their fall 2018 collections by supporting CFDA’s NYFW: Men’s and NYMD,” Fazio said.

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Rite Aid – Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10

Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $ 15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $ 40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10
Code: no code needed
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Men’s Fall 2018 Trend: Euro Trip

Heritage men’s wear and youthful street influences were on full display on Europe’s fall runways, where sharp double-breasted tailoring faced off against statement puffers, while pops of Instagram-friendly safety orange enlivened the season. 
Monster Mash
Double Play
Pumped Up
High Visibility
 

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Sharon Wauchob to Launch Men’s Wear, Stage Coed Shows From June

ONE FOR THE BOYS: The Irish designer Sharon Wauchob plans to launch men’s wear — and join the coed gang — starting with London Fashion Week Men’s in June, and in concert with the Savile Row tailor Norton & Sons.
“The idea of change started with my move from Paris to London, which opened up the possibility and benefit of new avenues and new methods of showing. There was also the timing issue with deliveries and the fact that since moving to London I’ve been fascinated with bespoke men’s tailoring,” Wauchob said.
She plans to host a women’s presentation to show her fall 2018 range during London Fashion Week on Feb. 18 and will show a new collections of women’s wear and menswear in June.
As for her collaboration with Norton & Sons, she said,“I like exploring the masculinity in men’s wear. As a designer it genuinely interests me. Norton & Sons offers a modern look and a willingness to have that dialogue with me. I like the classic look with a moment of surprise.”
The designer, who moved her show to London from Paris three seasons ago, said that designing for men requires a different approach. She said there are technical differences to

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Common Gender Aims to Tap Underpenetrated Men’s Market in China

SHANGHAI — It was a case of the venue determining the launch city of men’s wear label Common Gender rather than Shanghai’s burgeoning reputation as an international fashion hub.
When looking at locations for the label’s first fashion show, Lea Chan, vice president and marketing director of parent company EPO Fashion Group, searched for venues in Shanghai, Beijing and Chengdu, but settled on the former after discovering West Bund Art Center. Once an old aircraft factory, the industrial space has held onto much of its raw, urban interior, which was in keeping with the brand’s Nineties Berlin-inspired pop-up shop and edgy, angular fashion show on Tuesday.
The pop-up store and fashion show were attended by key Chinese influencers and business partners of the brand and featured a cast of international and local male models purposefully storming down the catwalk with a performance by American twin brother electro punk rock band The Garden.
EPO Fashion Group, parent company of women’s wear brands Mo & Co. and Edition 10; cosmetics brand REC, and children’s wear label Little Mo & Co. posted group sales of 3.5 billion yuan in 2017, or $ 555 million. Common Gender’s launch marks the Chinese company’s move into the domestic men’s wear market.

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Etro to Kick Off 50th Anniversary With Men’s Presentation in Milan

MILAN — “They affectionately call me the upholstery designer here,” said Kean Etro with a laugh.
Tanned and refreshed after his Christmas holidays spent between skiing in the Dolomites and sailing across the Indian Ocean, the creative director of the men’s wear line at the family-owned company is brimming with energy as he walks through the collection in an exclusive preview with WWD. His interest in home interiors is reflected in his designs and the nickname also comes from his deep and extensive knowledge of habitats around the world.
“Habitat is also the house that surrounds you and that you wear as a dress,” said Etro affably.

A look from Etro Fall 2018 . 
Simone Lezzi/WWD

A medallion detail from Persian carpets that is reproduced on exquisitely embroidered jackets in silk and cotton velour is just one example of Etro’s ability to import from interiors to fashion. The lining shows colorful Etro banknotes and is so carefully defined it would be worth wearing the blazer inside out — although it is not reversible, the designer pointed out.
On a board is a mock-up of the installation that will serve as the background to the men’s wear presentation to be held on Jan. 13 at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio,

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Upbeat Mood Prevails at New York Men’s Trade Shows

NEW YORK — New year, bright outlook.
That sums up the mood of specialty stores shopping the men’s trade shows here. A strong end to 2017, a soaring stock market and some tempting merchandise options for fall all combined to boost retailers’ spirits.
“Holiday was great,” said Ken Giddon, president of Rothmans, which operates three men’s stores in New York. “There have been some weather difficulties in January but that’s OK. We had a surprisingly strong fall so inventories are not what we had expected. My mood is good — it’s an exciting time to be a retailer.”
He said he has been working more with his suppliers to create partnerships that benefit both. “Every conversation is not: ‘What are you selling and how much is it?’ But it’s, ‘How can we work together.’ That’s what it’s going to take to make the wholesale model work today and I actually enjoy making deals almost more than I enjoy looking at merchandise.”
That said, Giddon did manage to find several brands that he liked at the shows. “I’m surprised at how many great Scandinavian brands there are,” he said, pointing to the Scandinavian Man section at Project. He especially liked Hestra gloves and Cords trousers.
In

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Balmain Revs Up Men’s

PARIS — “I’ve built my show like it’s the end of the world. You will see from the looks that we are all survivors — I’m definitely a survivor, for so many reasons,” said Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing, who on Saturday is to present a show “all about surviving the world — and the fashion world.”
The designer will be delivering messages at the show on a series of T-shirts bearing “sentences that mean a lot to me,” he said, picking out one that particularly strikes a chord: I’m only human.
“I’ve been in fashion seven years,” Rousteing explained, “and I’ve [had to face so much] criticism. I just want to say to people, ‘Look, you’re going to judge and critique the show no matter if it’s good or not. Have an opinion, but never forget we’re only human, we’re not superheroes and we always try to do our best.’”
Rousteing’s best, in this collection, means a men’s line more in sync with the women’s in terms of direction, “power and strength” — and the feeling that he’s found himself. As the gender-fluid trend sweeps through men’s, the Balmain man, Rousteing said, “is definitely listening to his feminine side, his rock ’n’

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John Varvatos Men’s Fall 2018

John Varvatos went “rogue” for his fall show, eschewing the official fashion calendar to present on the eve of Grammys weekend in New York.
He selected an old synagogue on the Lower East Side and filled the front row with musicians and executives in town for the big event at Madison Square Garden: all three Jonas brothers, Thomas Rhett, Young Paris and Iggy Azalea among them.
It was ironic then that this season, Varvatos showed less of a rock ’n’ roll aesthetic than in the past. “I never think of us as rock ’n’ roll,” the designer said backstage before the show. “That’s other people’s perception. But it does have an edge to it.”
Instead, the designer set out to “change it up,” with a show he titled “John Varvatos 2.0” that “explored the notion of looking back to look forward,” according to the show notes.
He turned to his greatest hits over the past 17 years — textured fabrics, handknit sweaters, hand-finished leathers and pumped-up trainers — modernized in terms of silhouette and materials — to offer his take on the street “and how we’re living today.”
Despite the slightly oversized proportions, the collection was not streetwear — intentionally. “I appreciate streetwear but I’m

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Paris Men’s Week: Great Expectations

PARIS — As the coed trend continues to suck puff out of men’s weeks’ sails, Paris, as the proverbial capital of fashion, is still showing resistance.
The palpable buzz around the week, which opened Tuesday, bodes well for the city’s returning confidence. The greater Paris region in 2017 saw a record 23.1 million hotel arrivals, according to the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau, coming off a gloomy 2016 that was impacted by a spate of terrorist attacks.
Against a baseline of men’s wear stalwarts like Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons, Thom Browne and Rick Owens, Vetements’ off-calendar show — after having staged a “No-Show” event in a Paris car park last June — has added fizz to this season, while excitement is also mounting around the debut Maison Margiela men’s collection under the creative direction of John Galliano, both showing on Friday. It’s been a step-by-step process for the designer.
“The strategy of the maison is rooted into a single unified and consistent message, with John Galliano’s vision at its core. Allowing this creative vision to develop and expand consistently throughout the house first required a thorough exploration and redefinition of the brand codes,” said Riccardo Bellini, chief executive officer of Maison

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Ones to Watch: Paris Men’s Fashion Week

PARIS — From the debut collection of design-led sustainable men’s brand, Phipps, to Nïuku’s modern-day tribute to men’s tailoring of yore, here are some of the new talents to look out for at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which kicks into high gear today.
Phipps

A look by Phipps. 
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“It’s about acknowledging that we’re all people, we’re in this together,” said Spencer Phipps, founder of Phipps, a new men’s wear line mixing sustainability and style that is due to launch on Jan. 20 during Paris Men’s Week. (The venue is still to be confirmed.)
The Paris-based designer, who is from San Francisco, cut his teeth in the men’s studio of Marc Jacobs in New York before working for Dries Van Noten in Antwerp for three years. After leaving Van Noten, he spent eight months researching manufacturers and materials. “I did my graduate collection in sustainability in 2008 at Parsons and it was like a joke. I ended up finding one manufacturer in New England that was basically some hippy commune that made hemp and linen and one cotton flannel,” he said.
So Phipps opted to work with manufacturers in Portugal, “a country that is basically certified [for sustainability].”
“After their economy crashed, at the same time as everyone

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Martin Grant Leaps Into Men’s Wear Amid Shift in Collections Calendar

PARIS — Martin Grant, whose razor-sharp tailoring has earned him fans including Cate Blanchett and Jennifer Connelly, is launching a capsule collection for men as part of a broader plan to switch the focus away from his main women’s collection and toward the pre-collection seasons.
Grant is set to unveil the men’s line, featuring between 15 and 20 designs, during presentations at his Paris showroom between Jan. 17 and 24.
Starting in July, the Australian designer, whose last catwalk show was held in October 2015, will resume runway presentations during Paris Couture Week showcasing his men’s designs alongside his women’s pre-fall collections and a smattering of couture.
He will present a few additions to the pre-collection to coincide with the main women’s ready-to-wear shows in March and October, but will no longer produce separate collections. Grant said the decision made sense, as pre-collections now account for 80 percent of his business.
“Logistically it’s much better for us, because it’s what the buyers want anyhow,” he told WWD during an exclusive preview of the men’s collection. “They’re putting all of their budget into the pre-collections, because they need the time to sell. For us, concentrating on that season gives us a longer lead time to develop the

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Hermès Men’s Fall 2018

The “Game of Thrones”-style backdrop – set in the cloister of an ancient Paris convent, the runway wrapped around a courtyard lit by fire drums that the models had to walk through, with bits of ash blowing onto the crowd – was the perfect contrast to this super-refined collection.
Véronique Nichanian has a way of doing relaxed French style with a super-luxe delivery in terms of the materials, including a head-turning hooded parka in hazelnut crocodile. A two-tone, hazelnut and Hermès-red quilted coat in a patented fabric called Toilbright, which had the glossy sheen of a foil candy wrapper, added a cool retro feel.
This was the wardrobe of a super-wealthy bohemian, and the vibe even translated to some of the graphics, with colored mountain landscapes worked onto jacquard knits and the season’s super-sized Kelly bag, or used as an outline piping across rubberized lambskin sweatshirts.
The oversized volumes of the sweaters and pants emphasized the collection’s effortless mood. Tailoring remained fitted, with an on-trend six-button, double-breasted suit.
The traditional shearling that the house is known for was revisited in an elegant white version — a statement piece but when paired with slouchy leather pants, a green turtleneck and untucked white shirt artfully hanging

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Ann Demeulemeester Men’s Fall 2018

For fall, Sébastien Meunier took his audience on a trot through the ages with an eclectic mix of outfits, all clearly stamped with the house’s style. Long sleeves everywhere: on shirts, on jackets, both on and off the shoulders. Straps and cords flung in all directions, employed to either augment or dampen movement, and sometimes a bit of both. A hanging, unfastened belt offered a new take on accessories.
It felt like a glimpse into someone’s fantasies, with wild and sensual ideas — the kind that are normally tucked away from the scrutiny of the outside world — allowed to run freely.
From the deep past — probably even before trappers roamed the West — Meunier dug up a hulking, shearling overcoat, jet black on the outside, that stretched to the ground. It was worn bared open to reveal the skewed brown buttons on a black vest.
White blouses hailed from all times, including the days of pirates, but plenty virile enough to dismiss any reference to Prince in the Eighties or the ridiculed Seinfeld version from the Nineties.
It wasn’t all goth and grunge, even if the combat boots were nearly knee-high. Building on the label’s dreamier sides, so prevalent in the last season’s

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Four Brands Selected for NYFW Men’s China Day

HONG KONG–Changes are coming fast to New York Fashion Week with the discussion of brands shifting to a June/December format while others depart for alternative cities. Attendees can add at least one more change to the list: four Chinese labels are to show in February during men’s under the banner of a China Day.
The chosen brands are: affordable chain Peacebird; Li-Ning, the leading sportswear giant founded by the Olympic champion of the same name; the designer Chen Peng, known for his cocoon-like puffer jackets; and streetwear brand CLOT, founded by Hong Kong entrepreneur Kevin Poon and former actor-musician Edison Chen.
“China Day allows us to further expand the scope of NYFW: Men’s by showcasing the most exciting Chinese fashion talent to the American fashion community,” said CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb. The initiative is part of CFDA’s overall strategy to build international ties, which will in turn help us strengthen the impact of American fashion globally.”
“Both sides come from the common goal of promoting exchange between Chinese and American fashion industries,” said Jessica Liu, president of Tmall Fashion. “We want to help outstanding Chinese designers gain more recognition in the international fashion community, while also supporting commercial labels to build their brand

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GmbH Men’s Fall 2018

It was a cold and rainy night in an industrial wasteland in Paris: in other words, the perfect setting for a buzzy streetwear label to stage a fashion show. Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik showed their fall lineup for GmbH at L’Aérosol, a street art center located in a former railway shed that shouted grimy cool.
The Berlin-based collective they co-founded took its exploration of cultural cross-pollination in a tougher direction this season, exploring the notion of protection with looks ranging from chainmail tops and reinforced biker jackets to pinch-waisted suits that emphasized broad shoulders.
Chunky patchwork knit sweaters nodded to Huseby’s Norwegian heritage, while Isik’s parentage shone through in wide-cut pants featuring geometric embroideries inspired by the kisbet trousers worn by Turkish oil wrestlers.
Emblazoned across the back was the phrase “My Beauty Offends You” – the title of the show – borrowed from a song by Fatima Al Qadiri that challenges traditional notions of gender identity. It made for a complex brew rich in sociological readings.
“Last season was quite optimistic and utopian, looking at our fathers. With this one, we felt it was getting more aggressive and dark,” said Huseby. “The time we’re living kind of feels a bit like

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Rossignol Men’s Fall 2018

For Rossignol’s Studio collection, Andrea Pompilio showed respect for the history of the brand and said he wished to “telegraph the precision and technicality” of the company’s expertise in the mountains for “daily, performing city pieces.”
The designer highlighted Rossignol’s down jackets, rendering them season-less and ultralight. Pompilio layered the pieces, designed to be combined freely. A standout look comprised a padded corduroy jacket with knitwear intarsia and a removable ecological shearling collar, worn over comfortable and loose pied-de-poule pants.
Functional details, such as snap-hooks and ski-lift badges, became decorative elements for the city, as did mesh pockets, applied on the sleeves of a checkered shirt in vivid and contrasting orange and blue.

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EXCLUSIVE: Maison Margiela to Present First Men’s Collection Under John Galliano

MAN UP: With Paris Men’s Fashion Week set to kick off Tuesday, management at Maison Margiela has confirmed that the house on Friday will present the first men’s collection entirely created and developed under the direction of John Galliano.
The show will take place in the Salle Turenne of the Musée de l’Armée in the Hôtel des Invalides, a complex of buildings in the city’s 7th arrondissement containing museums and monuments relating to the military history of France.
Since joining the OTB-owned house in October 2014, Galliano has had no official involvement in the men’s collection, according to Riccardo Bellini, the house’s chief executive officer. It’s been a step-by-step process for the designer.
“Creating a new aesthetic language rooted in the maison’s couture spirit has always been at the core of Mr. Galliano’s creative vision for the future of the house. Rather than curating the past we have chosen to look at the future and John Galliano’s vision represents a forward-thinking view on the maison and its DNA,” he said. “This collection will offer an elevated and powerful new foundation for men’s wear, strongly positioned within the luxury arena.”
For men’s, the brand counts about 60 direct stores and around 400 multibrand and department stores worldwide.

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GCDS Men’s Fall 2018

“Streetwear, sometimes it’s too hard to define, it’s a place where young people want to belong but still it’s a place of creativity for me so I wanted to make it as fun and as colorful as possible,” said Giuliano Calza, who decided to stage a three-act “play” around it, booking out Milan’s Teatro Manzoni and even putting on a toffee apple stand for guests in the build up to the entertainment.
There was no script, instead the Instagrammable garb did the talking, as a series of characters emerged from tent flaps atop a faux hill and sauntered down a faux path to a soundtrack of old school cartoon classics from works including “Sleeping Beauty” and “Dumbo.”
There was a whole load of kawaii-kitsch going down, and lashings of pink, from – for the ladies – the faux bourgeois navy quilted skirt suits studded with bright red dots to candyfloss coats in tacky fabrics recalling baby blankets studded with ritzy plastic gems to – for the lads – nubby teddy bear fleeces and bright tracksuits recalling surf shorts, mixed with girly graphics courtesy of a collaboration with Disney.
The designer pumped up the volume with the purest streetwear looks, mixing shiny puffers and

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Cycling does not harm men’s sexual health, study says

The sexual and urinary health of cyclists is comparable with runners and swimmers, a study suggests.
BBC News – Health
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The Pulse of Men’s Industry Strong at Pitti Uomo

FLORENCE — The energy at the Pitti Uomo show was electric as the industry continued to bask in a solid end to 2017 and was eagerly anticipating further gains this year.
But at the same time, some familiar faces were either late in arriving at the show or dressed in some new duds, since many attendees who started their international journey at New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport arrived in Florence without their luggage. The so-called “bombogenesis” snowstorm on Jan. 4 resulted in thousands of canceled flights and even more lost bags, many of which were still sitting on a runway at the airport this week.
But while they may have had to snip the price tags off their spanking new outfits, Pitti attendees made the best of the situation — and helped the local retail economy at the same time before turning to the business at hand, which was to peruse the typical wide variety of fall merchandise ranging from accessories and footwear to luxury sportswear.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president of fashion director for Saks Fifth Avenue, said she was “very energized” by her first visit to Pitti Uomo. “I feel like this is the nucleus of men’s wear on a

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Les Benjamins Men’s Fall 2018

The antique atmosphere of Florence’s Teatro Niccolini, the city’s oldest theater, created an interesting clash with the contemporary, quintessentially metropolitan look of Bunyamin Aydin’s fall collection. The Turkish designer mainly focused on a signature silhouette, combining cropped, straight pants with layered, more voluminous tops. These included oversize printed hoodies, featuring images inspired by antique monuments, such as the Egyptian pyramids, as well as quilted bombers, leather jackets, parkas and a range of anorak styles worked in velvet and fleece.
The brand also unveiled several women’s looks. While some of them were linked to the men’s lineup showing skinny pants, T-shirts and hoodies, others were infused with a clearly feminine attitude, such as tulle skirts, Eastern-inspired silk tunics with cutout details at the sleeves and sequined robe coats.

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EXCLUSIVE: Stella McCartney Takes the Plunge Into Men’s Swimwear

STAR OF THE SEA: Stella McCartney is plunging into men’s swimwear with a debut collection that launches Tuesday in partnership ISA SpA, the Italian textile manufacturer, WWD has learned.
Animal and tropical prints — including a jaunty parrot one — from the ready-to-wear collection, star embroidery and a geometric pattern have been cast onto boxers, briefs, rash guards, cover-ups, towels and sustainable beach totes made in Kenya. The color palette includes lavender, yellow, blush pink and bottle green for the organic cotton and recycled nylon fabrics.
McCartney said because she designs swimwear for women, it was only right that she should do the same for men, and that launching the collection felt like a natural progression.
“It’s a fantastic opportunity to broaden the men’s collection. I wanted to explore an area of a man’s wardrobe that is important and is perhaps slightly under-designed at times. And I wanted to bring the personality of the man into swimwear, so the relationship of the man and the woman on the beach has consistency.”
The collection will drop at the designer’s boutiques and on her web site and will also be stocked at stores including Harrods, Matchesfashion.com and Mr Porter. Prices range from 155 pounds to 255 pounds for

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Per Götesson Men’s Fall 2018

Per Götesson wanted to create his ideal men’s wardrobe for fall.
“I always like to explore notions of new masculinity and modern masculinity,” said Götesson. “There is something soft maybe, and then juxtaposed with typical men’s wear cuts and [embroidery] and a bit of accessories.”
The Sweden-born designer staged his first stand-alone presentation at Machine-A in Soho after showing as a part of the Topman-sponsored Man collective.
Götesson described his man as erotic, sensitive, but not afraid as well — serious yet sincere. He focused on separates rather than complete looks and aimed to fill a man’s wardrobe with outerwear, denim and shirting — making everything interchangeable.
He continued to explore denim and proportion and made silhouettes of jeans drapey or tighter cropped. He simplified an oversize coat, which came across pared back as he removed the epaulettes and belt.
He looked at utility and men’s wear items like technical Army vests. Taking details from utility garments, he created Army green thermal leggings which featured cargo pockets. He paired this with a denim zip-up anorak parka with a fleece collar.

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Craig Green Men’s Fall 2018

Craig Green channeled all of his little kid energy into this collection where clothes doubled as nomad’s tents, models wore makeshift flying machines and sweaters were patched together from colorful bits of fabric and knitwear.
The designer, who also worked with Grenson on a pair of chunky lace-up shoes inspired by toy soldiers, said he was interested in improvisations and imperfect shapes, clothes that looked as if they’d popped out of a mold, “with bits of other things still stuck inside them.”
Green, who won British men’s designer of the year for the second time at last month’s Fashion Awards in London, is the rare designer who can balance the conceptual with the commercial. Since last year he’s been selling a selection of signature core pieces alongside the runway ones, which has given him the freedom to play – and he certainly delivered.
He knows that for every man who favors a shirt or a coat with exaggerated pleating here and there, or heavy denim trousers, there’s another who doesn’t mind sweeping into dinner dressed in a geometric patchwork robe like Joseph’s Technicolor dream coat, or a sweater with cutouts and a knitted corset resembling a doily.
Models carrying wooden frames – some with

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J JS Lee Mounts Installation and Unveils Men’s Wear

MOUNTING MENSWEAR: J JS Lee designer Jackie Lee debuted her men’s wear range as an installation during London Fashion Week Men’s on Sunday.
“I love Savile Row,” Lee enthused. “I love men’s tailoring, especially English and American tailoring. And I thought, how can I put a little bit of the humor in it and put a twist in it? It still looks tailored but in a young and a different way. That was the aim.”
Lee’s ensembles were suspended from the ceiling at her presentation held at the Discovery Lab at The Store Studios. “With women’s wear there is so many things to do and men’s there are so many challenges to do,” she mused.
Lee employed wools from British mills and used shades of cream, navy, black and sand. She created a range of separates that included outerwear, tailored jackets, trousers and shirting. Versatile jumpsuits came with detachable pieces while suspenders appeared as decorative elements on suits and jackets.

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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2018: Ones to Watch

John Alexander Skelton
Born and raised in York, John Alexander Skelton received his master’s in fashion men’s wear at Central Saint Martins and took on internships at E. Tautz and Patrik Ervell before launching his label last year. Selected by Giles Deacon, Skelton is a recipient of the Sarabande scholarship, an initiative from The Lee Alexander McQueen Foundation that aids young designers. He is working out of a studio at Sarabande in east London.
Sustainability is a key theme for Skelton, who incorporates repurposed materials into his ranges and takes a DIY approach to his work. He has a loom in his studio and many of his fabrics are handwoven, as is much of his knitwear. “Everything I dye is also done by hand using natural dye. The handcrafted element is my signature, in a way,” said the designer.
For fall 2018, Skelton has been working with mills in Ireland, mixing British wool and Irish linen.
“I have been doing a lot of hand weaving, as well, on the loom. I have also done a few natural dyes this time, one using an ancient European dye, the European version of indigo, called woad,” he said.
Skelton’s main focus has always been on the process and

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Cottweiler Men’s Fall 2018

Still high from nabbing the latest International Woolmark Prize for men’s wear, Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty took a luxurious turn for this rich, textured and colorful collection inspired by their exploration of Slovenia’s celebrated Krizna Jama cave network.
To set the mood, they staged the show in the darkly-lit mineralogy rooms at London’s Natural History Museum, where models walked a long and narrow runway meant to recall the cave tunnels, and showed off printed silk trousers, delicate fuzzy wool sweaters and a distressed, flocked nylon tracksuit that looked as if it was made from bits of shiny black rock.
“We wanted a softer touch and a more formal approach to sportswear,” said Cottrell, adding that the aim was also to create “texture, layering and a lot more luxury to the fabrics.”
Textural effects came through with accessories and styling, too: Models carried spelunking equipment and wore chunky clips around their waists, while their arms and legs were streaked with a waxy goo as if they’d just emerged from the center of the earth. Trainers and leather bags, the latter courtesy of Mulberry, looked as if they were dripping with hardened wax.
The clothes were fit more for the city streets than for dank

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Men’s Fashion Week: How Tinie Tempah went from charts to catwalks

The musician is set to debut his latest clothing collection as part of Men’s Fashion Week.
BBC News – Entertainment & Arts

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