Roland Mouret said he wanted a collection that was all about movement, lightness and freedom and, to wit, played with volume, draping and longer lengths. A long and loose cotton shirtdress had string ties at the wrists and could be worn open or closed at the back. Languid, unlined trenches had epaulet details that melted into the shoulder or came with geometric patterns and fringed edges. Dresses were lightweight and airy, as in a long powder pink one in a textured organza with Mouret’s signature folds around the neck. A featherweight, off-the shoulder gown in Lurex brocade was versatile enough to wear with sneakers or stilettos.
FRENCH CONNECTION: Roland Mouret may have made London his home, but his heart, and palate, still fly the French flag.
On Thursday, when Americans were tucking into their Thanksgiving turkeys, Mouret hosted a dinner prepared by the two-star Michelin chef Hélène Darroze, his old friend and neighbor on Carlos Place in Mayfair to mark the launch of his first fragrance earlier this year, called Une Amourette. Darroze operates an eponymous restaurant across the street at the Connaught hotel.
There was Champagne and foie gras to start, and guests later took to the first floor of Mouret’s townhouse flagship for a three-course meal built around the notes of Une Amourette: The blue lobster starter was marinated with cardamom, pink peppercorn and bergamot, while the roast saddle of venison came with a black pepper crust flavoured with smoked juniper.
Dessert was Mouret’s childhood favorite, caramelized apple tarte tatin, which Darroze — who had set up a temporary kitchen in Mouret’s townhouse — served with a side of hay-flavored ice cream on a table laid with bowls of irises and thick white candles.
“My grandmother used to make me tarte tatin — but hers was more burnt than Hélène’s,” said Mouret, whose guests included Arizona Muse and Cat
Roland Mouret loosened up for resort, presenting a series of fluid silhouettes in a monochromatic palette of red, black and white. There were flowing midi dresses, airy blouses and loosely draped jumpsuits.
Mouret also experimented with tailoring while staying true to his signature femininity; cropped trousers, pencil skirts and jackets were done in monochromatic tweed fabrics, featuring details such as lace trims and raffia fringing.
The eveningwear offer stood out for its bold floral patterns and delicate fil coupé fabrics, which highlights the designer’s efforts to introduce his take on demi-couture, offering decorative yet wearable pieces “for a new generation of customers.”
Roland Mouret, on a perpetual quest to fill the holes in his clients’ seasonal wardrobes, turned out a collection of bright and embellished — but still classic — shapes. Among the highlights was a long canary yellow dress done in fil coupé fabric with subtle harness details around the bodice, and a paisley tunic dress also made from fil coupé.
Bomber jackets were embroidered with abstract flowers, as were halter dresses, while crop tops had delicate fringing along the edges of the sleeve. Elsewhere there were draped, languid silhouettes, as in a silk open-back dress with fluid sleeves and a loose belted kimono jacket and trench, both examples of a new outerwear category for the designer.
Mouret is building his business with separates, too, which he said now account for 50 percent of sales. Hence the sculptural tops, knits and sleek double-face satin trousers dotted in between the more statement pieces.