Men’s Spring 2019: Flying Colors

The men’s collections for spring skew young, vibrant — and very spiffy. A plethora of tailored elements mingle with explosive color and touches of Nineties raver.

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Get Smart

Dressing up again — in easy, laid-back tailoring — was a key message of the men’s shows, and a riposte to the streetwear juggernaut.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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A.F. Vandevorst To Present Spring 2019 Collection at Milan’s White Fair

Belgian label A.F. Vandevorst will be the special project of the upcoming edition of Milan-based trade show White, running Sept. 21-24.
The brand won’t only present its spring 2019 collection to buyers and press at the fair’s Tortona 27/Superstudio Più location, but will also celebrate its 20th anniversary with a special installation at the Tortona 31/Archiproducts venue. Here, A.F. Vandevorst will also operate a pop-up show selling limited edition ready-to-wear and accessories.
Putting the focus on Belgian creativity, White will host in the same Tortona 31/Archiproducts area “The Belgian Focus,” a special project developed in collaboration with Flanders DC, a no-profit organization founded by the Flemish government to boost the business of the region’s economy. Through the partnership, seven emerging companies, – including sustainable underwear specialist Ophelia Lingerie, printed textile maker Marlène Madou, footwear brand Morobé, bag label Lies Martens, jewelry house Studio Collect, as well as ready-to-wear firms Mooiloop and Helder Antwerp, – will showcase their creations in Milan.
The next edition of White will also see the participation of Fiorucci, which, as special guest of the trade show, will present its spring 2019 lineup in a dedicated area at the Tortona 27/Superstudio Più venue.

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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Top Men’s Trends for Spring 2019

First came dad sneakers — and now the so-uncool-they’re-cool jeans to match.

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Theory Men’s Spring 2019

Well-known for his take on creating timeless wardrobe pieces with a cool minimalistic twist, Theory’s Martin Andersson’s spring collection keeps building on the same principles it has for the few past seasons: mobility and innovation. 
“We asked ourselves, who is the Theory guy, and concluded that he’s into travel,” Andersson said at the brand’s spring presentation.
A capsule collection focusing on the idea of mobility and travel — packable seam-sealed blazers, travel Mac coats, water-resistant shirts and even a tracksuit — were all designed to be worn from the office straight to the airport.
Andersson has a knack for giving wardrobe staples a cool, minimalist élan via color and cut. His spring palette spanned forest greens, navy, khaki and bright pops of electric yellow and pink that were inspired from Dan Flavin’s light installations at Dia: Beacon.
A standout were the khaki pieces, such as khaki chinos with a contrast waistband paired with a bright pink sweater — a perfect blend of casual and sporty.

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Gucci to Show Spring 2019 Collection at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris

PALACE BOUND: Gucci revealed on Monday that its spring 2019 collection will be presented at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris on Sept. 24 at 9 p.m. The Italian fashion house said this is the first time the location will host a runway show.
Le Palace, located at 8 Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, served for years as a nightclub, drawing members of the fashion and music industries as well as an underground culture.
“The Théâtre Le Palace resonates with the vision of the house as it is a venue that gave life to a (sub)culture that has inspired young generations up until today,” said a statement from Gucci.
This is a one-off show for Gucci in Paris and marks the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele.
Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites. Photographed and directed by Glen Luchford, it depicts Gucci-clad rebels occupying a university campus, passionately challenging the establishment and asking for change. Luchford’s black-and-white photos are inspired by the bold French Nouvelle Vague imagery of the late Fifties and Sixties and by radical filmmakers François

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2019

Models running wind sprints and stretching in colorful soccer gear on the runway prior to the show created the ideal introduction for Willy Chavarria’s new collaboration with Danish soccer brand Hummel.
The collection was defined by the use of bright colors and long boxy silhouettes in shorts and tops that paid homage to the designer’s main line. His creative use of the Hummel logo and soccer uniform staples such as numbers and insignias turned them into streetwear-infused details.
The collaboration will also serve to offer sponsorships to New York City soccer players with documented and undocumented U.S. citizens offering support to immigrants, another key element of this season for Chavarria.
His spin on soccerwear served as part one of a two-part spring collection.
For his main line, Chavarria said he pulled from Latino culture of the early Aughts on the East and West Coasts. The “baggy silhouettes” from Venice and Culver City were juxtaposed with the “long rise pants tucked into Timberlands” that defined the urban landscape in the Bronx and Harlem in that era.
The nostalgia kicked into high gear with Chavarria’s take on Polo Sport references: upside-down American flags, yellow trenchcoats and the word America printed upside down on the front of sweatshirts.
There was also

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Hugo Spring 2019

It’s always big news in Berlin when Hugo Boss decides to stage an event in the German capital during Fashion Week. Yet the decision to return with Hugo after a hiatus of seven years was primarily driven by the city itself. Not only was Berlin’s techno culture and “creative energy and eclectic street style” a key influence for the collection this season, but “with its very unique mix of fashion, art, music, literature and tech, it’s a good eco-system to take a brand like Hugo to the next level,” Boss chief executive officer Mark Langer told WWD prior to the show.
And what better place to do that than in the original home of techno, Motorwork, a gargantuan industrial space that Hugo transformed into a dark and gritty Nineties rave environment. The decade also figured strongly in the men’s and women’s looks on the runway, especially in terms of the prints based on ripped and collaged Rave posters or period album artwork, and the oversized, wide-shouldered, tailored silhouette for both genders derived from a Nineties Boss archive piece. However, that jacket and coat silhouette and baggy tailored pants were customized with DIY flair. Drawstrings were used to create new volumes and

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dior Moves Spring Show a Day Ahead

EARLY BIRDS: Christian Dior, typically the first big name to open Paris Fashion Week in recent years, has moved its show ahead one day, to Sept. 24, safeguarding that distinction.
The venue and time have yet to be finalized, but it is likely to be in the early afternoon. The Paris shows go through Oct. 2.
Gucci had previously revealed that it would do a one-off showing in Paris on the evening of Sept. 24. The event is to mark the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, who paraded his resort collection in Arles. Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites.
While foregoing a show in Milan for the season, Gucci is planning a special event to be held at its Hub venue on Sept. 19, the second day of Milan Women’s Fashion Week, scheduled to run Sept. 18 to 24.

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Acne Studios RTW Spring 2019

From Coco Chanel to Christian Lacroix, designers’ penchant for designing costumes for ballet goes way back.
Acne Studios’ Jonny Johansson, for his part, when approached by a young choreographer after attending one of his dance productions at the Royal Opera House in Stockholm, politely declined when asked to collaborate on a project.
But the designer, while mulling it over, said he started doing some research and “couldn’t get it out of my system.” He processed it here for spring, presenting his take on “the life of a dancer” in four acts. “I didn’t do what I would have done for [the choreographer], but I did do things that I found on the way,” he said backstage.
The collection was one of his strongest yet. Johansson filtered the dance theme through the Seventies mood he’s been exploring of late, with the peak-collared shirts, crafty crochet trims, and weird palette clashing pale green, rust, red and toffee.
Movement was the connecting thread. The designer sent out extralong, skinny pants in a pleated fabric that gathered at the ankles like legwarmers. Minimalist leather pants and trousers with paper-bag waists were worn with leotards, while long-sleeved jersey dresses and seamless knitted bodysuits went under sheer slipdresses.
A fluid coral

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Katharine Hamnett Men’s Spring 2019

The designer worked a mix of street, tailored clothing and some old favorites into this fully organic and sustainable collection. One of fashion’s sustainable clothing pioneers — she was demanding organic cotton long before most — her voice has a new resonance in this age of sustainability.
She’s even brought back her 1983 “Choose Life” slogan, which she plastered on a hoodie for spring. “The anti-abortion lobby nicked it — and now we’re nicking it back,” said Hamnett, who originally came up with the slogan as an antibattle, no-nukes cry in the Thatcher-ite era. A pink sweatshirt with the slogan “No More Fashion Victims” was another archive revival.
Hamnett’s mix included a magnified molecule pattern by the artist Jeffrey Pine on cotton denim trousers, boxy silk shirts and logo sweatshirts. She also made breezy button-front shirts using organic cotton muslin from Switzerland, and was particularly proud of the softness of the fabric.
The designer worked organic linen into a roomy baby blue Zoot suit and brought back a pair of faded flared jeans, the streetwear of the Seventies.

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Hermès Men’s Spring 2019

Véronique Nichanian showed a younger, sexier side to the Hermès man.
The designer continued with the athletic references, her take on the elevated lifestyle. The tailored jogging pant added to the man-on-the-move mood, revisited in different colors including light yellows blended with a sharply tailored blazer. The tennis-style short shorts added to the retro athletic undertone of the collection.
The on-trend three-button leather suit in a light shade of stone, worn without a shirt, showed a new sensuality.
Adding to details like the prints and the draping of the clothing, the collection’s color palette, with the combination of shades moving from saturated tones to pastels, was beautiful.
An enlarged camouflage print on a sweatshirt had a painterly Cubist feel, with hippy-luxe tie-dye bags playing off the collection’s bright colors.
Also standout were the silky blousons with side zippers, at times gathered at the back, and a look combining a bottle-green track pant with a bold blue and white side stripe and a super-thin graphic sweater with a zipper.
The elegant fine knits with ripple accents or python effects were  dreamy in a collection that exuded pure luxe fashion.

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Sacai Spring 2019

Chitose Abe set out to defy pre-conceived notions about clothes — for men and women — and she succeeded with a collection that was a color-packed mosaic of traditional tailoring, Native American blankets and nature-inspired designs from Hollywood tattoo artist Dr. Woo. These conceptual collections are loaded with risk: In the wrong hands they can look pretentious or sloppy – not to mention unwearable – but in Abe’s nimble fingers, Wow!
Her glorious hybrids included a jacket that was part tailored pinstripe, part army green anorak; blankets that morphed into kilts – and vice-versa – and a one-sleeve fisherman knit sweater. Oversized jackets and coats, meanwhile, zipped up and down to create different shapes and volumes.
Abe worked with Pendleton, better known for its Southwest American blankets, on pieces such as anoraks, trousers, long pleated dresses and capelets that were adorned with the traditional geometric patterns. The brand also worked with Nike on color-blocked, double swoosh sneakers that captured the whimsical mood of the collection and will make their shop-floor debut in January.
Woo’s delicate tattoo designs were re-born as embroideries, with birds, bugs and nature-inspired motifs adorning pieces including a cobalt blue button-front coat, two-tone satin baseball jackets and a shrunken pink

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Junya Watanabe Man Spring 2019

Forward, march! Looks with a military edge have been striding across the Paris runways, although they’re more of the Boy Scout than the Général de Gaulle variety, with lots of knee-length shorts, flak jacket/fishing vest hybrids (a major trend on the men’s runways) and fresh takes on camouflage.
Junya Watanabe charged ahead with the idea for his latest collection, which unfurled against a backdrop of a long, slightly droopy, army tent and to some foot-tapping military tunes, including the theme song from “The Bridge on the River Kwai.”
Looks included pinstripe shirts, gingham or plaid jackets with bright camouflage patches on the elbow, cropped cargo jeans and skinnier cotton trousers, too. To-the-knee shorts were done in traditional suiting patterns, while models wore vests dotted with pockets large and small. One of those vests even had what looked like a solar panel and an iPad pocket. Other bags, large and small, were slung across the chest or back in primary shades of red, blue or yellow.
While bright camouflage – we get the oxymoron – may have been the prevalent pattern, it certainly wasn’t the only one: The collection ended with a flurry of T-shirts, printed with thick or thin stripes, yellow and green fruits,

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424 Men’s Spring 2019

In his debut official showing to the press, Los Angeles-based streetwear designer Guillermo Andrade wanted to talk about more than just fashion. Referencing what he described as a decaying interpretation of Americana, Andrade sought to question the American Dream in the context of current events — as a Guatemalan immigrant to the U.S., he has firsthand experience of situations similar to those that have hit the headlines in recent weeks — and the prevailing preppy vision of American ideals.
One hoodie featured a blurred print of an abandoned Detroit school with the Stars and Stripes turned upside down in the foreground. Another theme showed haunting pictures of a decaying theater in a dusty color palette inspired by Detroit.
The basics — printed T-shirts, simple yet well executed hoodies, denim items — were stonewashed or given a hand-painted feel that transmitted the same message in a more subtle fashion.
Elsewhere, Andrade brought in new shapes and techniques for spring that have been enabled by producing certain pieces — a black leather shirt, another in black silk, pinstripe drawstring pants and matching worker’s shirt that are as close as he would like to get to suiting, or quirkier 3-D-printed silk chiffon check pants — in

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Ambush Spring 2019

Yoon Ahn took Ambush to the beach for spring, considering waves and forms, but also its meditative reach.
“On the surface level, it’s beachwear, something easy,” she noted, surveying models dressed in knitted crop tops, roomy trousers and wetsuits.
But this is a label that established itself by bending familiar references to give them new scope, and here was beachwear suitable for the streets. Oversize cotton and linen shirts and trousers, with thin, ivory cords dangling from waists, contrasted with body hugging wetsuits. Working with neoprene for the first time, the designer said she enjoyed pairing the wetsuits with knits and leaving them off the shoulders, arms hanging down the sides.
Jewelry, which has ebbed slightly as the label’s clothing offer expands, remained prominent, thanks to the introduction of pearls, fat and round, sometimes in large drops. Strands were knotted on wrists, with dangling gold drops at the tips, adding dimension to the feminine touch in the coed lineup. The traditional Hawaiian lei was recast in metal and charms included inflatable animals, also in metal.
Standouts included light puffer coats that stretched down like skirts with double layered front panels, in plum or safety yellow—bring your sleeping bag to the beach, was her message,

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2019

With all of the week’s obsessions with everything from the new brand of streetwear to  wild prints and neons and Eighties and Nineties nostalgia, Giorgio Armani proved a welcoming relief from the trend chasing.
This was the Maestro in his element, a moment of softness and simplicity, taking the audience to a far-off place. The super-elegant collection – centered around the double-breasted jacket – catered to the languid lifestyle of a global nomad traveling around the world, pulling on myriad references but with a cohesiveness and coziness to his wardrobe.
Playing with proportions, the designer channeled an elegant gentleman – or at times gentleman farmer – off duty, albeit interpreted through an urban lens, with a palette of mineral colors. With straw hats, fedoras and leather espadrilles among the accessories, Armani focused on his signature super-soft constructions, from gaucho-style oversized pants worn with stitched leather waistcoats over long-sleeved T-shirts to suede safari jackets, printed silk pajamas with digitalized ikat-style prints and those double-breasted jackets, most with peak lapels and all in the relaxed silhouette the designer made iconic.
A look combining crisp cotton pants worn with suspenders and patterned knitwear was another pure Eighties Armani moment, but felt timeless.
Even the unconstructed double-breasted linen suits

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Spring 2019

FIRST PRADA: “Any time spent in Italy is well spent,” said American actor Nick Robinson at his first Prada show, although for the moment his time in the country was limited to the Italian designer’s event. His summer included “traveling a couple of weeks in the Northwest [of the U.S.], a beautiful area, with as many adventures as I can, but I have no plans yet — I just want to be spontaneous.” Prada tapped Robinson for its most recent 365 campaign, and the actor, seen in Greg Berlanti’s 2018 film “Love, Simon,” said attending the show was “a rare, unique experience,” as he rarely attends fashion shows. “It’s such a fascinating world, and whenever I get the opportunity, I usually take it.”
American actor and singer Algee Smith, also in Prada’s campaign, was equally star-struck. “This is my first show, I’m super excited.” He said that shooting the campaign — his first ever — was “nothing like I expected, we were in a warehouse and there was such an adrenaline rush…” The artist said his next album is coming out, as well as the movie “The Hate U Give,” expected to be released in October. Directed by George Tillman Jr.

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Canali Men’s Spring 2019

For his first collection at Canali, Hyun Wook Lee evolved the storied sartorial tradition of the brand with good taste and sophistication—and an impressive color palette that spanned from powder pink and ice gray to brick red and deep ocean blue. He called the collection “Lui,” or “Him” in English, and presented it at Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology, dividing it in four sections: Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration.
In a nod to comfort, Equilibrium blended formal and casual wear, with sartorial wool, linen and silk blends used in sportswear. The designer re-elaborated the Canali name with a graphic play as an all-over print on the cotton-linen button-up shirts and the silk ties.
In the Dynamism room, colors were bolder, ranging from green to burnt sienna. The button-up shirts were styled as jackets, and cotton chinos were worn under jersey knits and over sneakers in a houndstooth fabric.
In the third section, Steadiness – which may also serve as Canali’s mantra, as the company stays the course without treading too far from its core values and without alienating its existing customers – blazers were feather-light and deconstructed to only two layers of canvas.
The lineup in the Inspiration room was meant to point

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MP Massimo Piombo Men’s Spring 2019

Gearing up for his debut collection as creative director of Italian retailer OVS’ men’s line for the fall 2019 season, Massimo Piombo for his namesake line stayed on course with a compact collection of silhouettes and assembling a cocktail of references from around the globe.
The designer layered old school blazers over vibrant cotton tunics in printed fabrics hailing from far-flung destinations like South Africa and Sri Lanka. Playing on contrasts, a traditional check was used on a technical coat, while a black raincoat was cut from a pure mohair cloth typically used for suiting.
Offering a more bohemian direction were tonal looks pairing a vibrant red and black striped spin on a cricket jacket with a patterned silk scarf worn on the waist, like a cummerbund, and a navy blazer with a striped Scandinavian marine knit or a yellow silk shirt — looks capturing the distinctive panache and sense of color for which Piombo is known.

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Qasimi Men’s Spring 2019

Khalid Qasimi’s nomad packed up his tent and continued to wander — and what a journey it was. Filled with chunky V-neck sweaters, roomy layers and laid-back, tailored separates, the collection was a refreshing alternative to the glut of streetwear on so many European catwalks.
Qasimi has always been a romantic, looking to history and human relationships for his bohemian-edged collections: This season his washed ikat prints on boxy shirts were inspired by maps and markers inside old archaeological guides while heartbreaking slogans, such as “We are so different now,” appeared on shirts or the edges of jackets.
The designer likes to refer to his collections as “a broad range of wardrobe staples for the constant traveler,” but they are so much more. Colored, woven ties — like bracelets sold on Europe’s street corners and beaches — appeared as drawstrings on oversize hoodie tops, fluid, tracksuit-style trousers, or as skinny belts cinching the back of loose navy or khaki tailored jackets.
The designer worked heavy, washed denim into oversize trousers with low-slung waists, and plied an equally hefty workwear cotton fabric into patchwork trousers and bombers in shades like cornflower, buttercup, olive and stone. Those colors came from a bigger palette that also took

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Daniel Fletcher Men’s Spring 2019

For spring 2019, Daniel Fletcher reworked the classic suit through his personal lens. He expressed his frustrations with the more restrictive business side of running his label with a collection featuring classic tailoring that was shredded, corseted and had dark overtones of a debaucherous weekend.
‘I have this feeling of restraint because there are so many restrictions with running my label that I wanted to break free,’ Fletcher said. ‘I like this idea of this businessman who’s gone out for a wild weekend after an 80-hour week. I wanted it to feel sadistic like where did he end up on this Friday night out.”
He subverted traditional menswear including suit jackets, slim trousers, shirts and leather jackets in its finishes – an exposed lining hanging out of the suit, slashes on the backs of the legs and rope detailing that bound seams together. There was a strong sense of angst and a need for freedom in the collection, which was juxtaposed with a poetic restraint – corsets atop shirts and wrapped around suits, as well as leather halter-tops that fitted like a second skin.
Fletcher collaborated with artist Caitlin Keogh for the prints seen on his silk shirts, featuring female torsos bound by

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Books of The Times: With ‘Spring,’ Karl Ove Knausgaard’s Latest Project Comes Into Focus

In the third of four books addressed to his youngest daughter, Knausgaard returns to form, and to ruthlessness, writing to fight a familial legacy of alienation from the world.
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Lascana Taps Alessandra Ambrosio for Spring Campaign

Lascana, the third-most popular lingerie brand in Germany that was founded in 2006, is targeting the U.S. market in a big way.
For its spring campaign — which the company is calling a “self-happiness” inititative — Lascana has tapped Alessandra Ambrosio, in the hopes of appealing to a broader consumer base.
The campaign footage will be integrated in all digital channels from performance and e-mail marketing to social media and Ambrosio will be featured in one of Lascana’s summer catalogues that will be distributed in the U.S. She will also star in a TV commercial that will air in the U.S. and Europe.
“Alessandra was a perfect match for this campaign,” said Sarah Rissen, head of marketing at Lascana. “She is an independent and very successful woman and shows that you can be successful and sexy at the same time. She can handle her private life being a mother and at the same time have a career. The campaign stands for self-happiness and Alessandra is a great testimonial for that since her motto, #alwaysonvacation, fits perfectly with that.”
Currently, Lascana has an e-commerce site that ships to the U.S. and uses targeted catalogue mailings to increase brand awareness. The multibrand concept, which is owned by

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Iceberg to Show Men’s Spring Collection in London

LONDON BOUND:  Iceberg goes to the U.K.
The Italian contemporary brand, controlled by manufacturing company Gilmar, is showing its men’s spring 2019 collection during London Collections: Men.
The runway show will take place on June 8 in a still undisclosed location.
Along with unveiling its latest men’s effort, creative director James Long will also showcase a selection of looks from Iceberg women’s pre-fall lineup.
Long joined the Iceberg men’s division in November 2015 and then, in August 2016, he was tapped by the brand to succeed Arthur Arbesser at the helm of the women’s line.
Last February, Iceberg presented its women’s fall collection, along with a few looks from the men’s range, with a runway show in the streets of Milan.

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Your Spring Wardrobe Staple, Based on Your April Horoscope

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Most anticipated games of spring 2018: 12 reasons to stay indoors this season

Most anticipated games of spring 2018: 12 reasons to stay indoors this seasonSpring is a time of rebirth, and for the games industry, a great time to launch a huge product or three. ‘God of War’ is shaping up to be an early contender for Game of the Year. Now a father, Kratos must mentor his young son and manage his legendary temper as the two explore a strange Scandinavian world.



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Peace Love World, LLC – SPRING SAVINGS SALE! SAVE 25% Off Site Wide & Free Shipping On Orders Over $100 At PeaceLoveWorld.com! Use Code: SPRINGY At Checkout! Click Here!

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Denim Trends Sienna Miller, Bella Hadid and More Are Wearing This Spring

ESC: Sienna MillerWith a new season comes a new crop of denim trends to try!
Luckily for us, fashion-forward celebrities are always ahead of the style pack. They are already wearing updated versions of…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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Denim Trends Sienna Miller, Bella Hadid and More Are Wearing This Spring

ESC: Sienna MillerWith a new season comes a new crop of denim trends to try!
Luckily for us, fashion-forward celebrities are always ahead of the style pack. They are already wearing updated versions of…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Your Ultimate Spring Break Packing List

Branded: Target Spring BreakYou look forward to Spring Break every year because, let’s face it, it’s the time of your life.
Maybe you’re jetting off to Miami Beach with a handful of your best babes, or…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Your Ultimate Spring Break Packing List

Branded: Target Spring BreakYou look forward to Spring Break every year because, let’s face it, it’s the time of your life.
Maybe you’re jetting off to Miami Beach with a handful of your best babes, or…

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Victoria Justice’s $10 Shirt Is the Spring Essential You Need Now

ESC: Victoria JusticeBelieve it or not: Celebrities wear affordable fast-fashion, too.
The latest star to prove she can mix high and low-priced items: Victoria Justice in a green, striped Tie-Hem Top from…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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Peace Love World, LLC – SPRING SAVINGS SALE! SAVE 25% Off Site Wide & Free Shipping On Orders Over $100 At PeaceLoveWorld.com! Use Code: SPRINGY At Checkout! Click Here!

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Peace Love World, LLC – SPRING SAVINGS SALE! SAVE 25% Off Site Wide & Free Shipping On Orders Over $100 At PeaceLoveWorld.com! Use Code: SPRINGY At Checkout! Click Here!

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9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

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9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

Special Tip Update!

9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

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Special Entertainment News Bulletin:


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Saturday Savings: Olivia Culpo’s H&M Top Is $15 and Perfect for Spring!

ESC: Olivia Culpo, Saturday SavingsA white top and jeans have never looked so good.
Olivia Culpo continues to prove that mastering basics is the first step to an incredible wardrobe. On a casual day, the style star wore a…

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Saturday Savings: Olivia Culpo’s H&M Top Is $15 and Perfect for Spring!

ESC: Olivia Culpo, Saturday SavingsA white top and jeans have never looked so good.
Olivia Culpo continues to prove that mastering basics is the first step to an incredible wardrobe. On a casual day, the style star wore a…

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Stylish Spring Outfits You Can Wear With Rain Boots and Other Cute Outdoor Gear

Branded: Target x HunterWhen the weather acts up, you have to dress accordingly.
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Stylish Spring Outfits You Can Wear With Rain Boots and Other Cute Outdoor Gear

Branded: Target x HunterWhen the weather acts up, you have to dress accordingly.
But just because you must resort to wearing practical weather-appropriate gear doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice your…

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Mindy Kaling, Gigi Hadid and More Master Mixing Prints for Spring

ESC: Mindy Kaling, Mixed PrintsThere are no rules to mixing and matching prints and patterns.
But if you want to look as flawless as Mindy Kaling, Gigi Hadid, Yara Shahidi and Greta Gerwig in their takes on the tricky…

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A Splash of Spring! All the Details on Kate Middleton’s Bespoke Jenny Packham Coat

Kate MiddletonDuchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton is feeling the green.
They say green is a power color and the radiant future mother of three was rocking a shade of it on Wednesday as she arrived at…

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Channel Reese Witherspoon’s Spring Vibes With Dresses Under $100

ESC: Reese WitherspoonOut with chunky sweaters, layered tops and puffer coats and in with spring-ready dresses!
Even if it still feels like a polar vortex where you live, it’ll only be mere weeks until you…

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Discount School Supply – SAVE 20% Off Select SPRING Arts & Crafts + Free Shipping On Orders Over $299 Using Code: SPRINGAC At DiscountSchoolSupply.com! Expires 4/01/2018! Click Here!

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Urban Zen RTW Spring 2018

Roaming through Donna Karan’s Urban Zen store, where the designer showed her latest in-season collection, is a transporting experience. Furniture, jewelry and art are culled from Haiti, Papua New Guinea, Bali and Africa, among other artisanal communities, in a vast curation of culture. It ties with the brand ethos focused on life (hers, specifically), travel and effortless dressing through it all.
Karan isn’t shy about the personal outfitting aspect, either. “I’m selfish, this is mine, nobody else’s,” she says with a laugh. “If other people want it, great, but I’m doing my own wardrobe!” It’s a highly enviable one. For her upcoming trip to Africa, she made easy-to-wear jumpsuits, tunics and dresses that transition from short to long with a hidden button. A wrap skirt maintained great versatility, with options to wear undone, tied at the front with a little bunching, or to the side for a wrapped effect. Featherweight statement necklaces made from combinations of leather, rubber and suede topped these off, while belt bags added a nomadic touch. Karan introduced shoes as well, ranging from low, wraparound sandals to high boots in lightweight suede.
For summertime in the Hamptons, she proposed a palette of black and white for free-flowing poplin

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Sick of Winter? Jump-Start Spring With One of These Books

Two books of floral art—one $ 70, one $ 60,000—vie for your bibliographical budget
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATE:

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Ode to Mickey: Opening Ceremony Spring 2018

ANAHEIM, CALIF. – Well, it’s going to be pretty hard to top Disney after Opening Ceremony’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon set precedent for what it means to entertain, immerse and, oh yes, present a new collection with Wednesday night’s fashion show at Disneyland.
The label took over Mickey’s Toontown — a themed land within the main park transporting guests directly into a cartoon world where they could cruise the homes of Mickey and Minnie or ride on Gadget’s Go Coaster, among other attractions — for the brand’s spring 2018 presentation and unveiling of a Disney capsule collection timed with Mickey Mouse’s 90th birthday.
“The idea is we’re going to be kicking off his birthday as a worldwide celebration with this event,” Leon said.
The event also marked the first time in four decades a fashion show has taken place at the park.
Guests, most of whom were coming from Los Angeles, were urged to arrive a few hours early to allow for traffic, which during rush hour clocked in at nearly two hours. Of course, they were given full run of the park starting at 6 p.m. up until the show’s planned start time of 9 p.m.
Curious onlookers began to take note of

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Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2018

To say that there were many moving parts to Tommy Hilfiger’s spring TommyNow see-now-buy-now extravaganza would be not only a bad pun — the show, titled Drive, was race-car themed — but a massive understatement. An extraordinary amount of things have to fall in line to make these massive shows a success — it’s astonishing and remarkable that they have. Then again, Hilfiger runs a well-oiled machine.
Hilfiger has managed to capitalize on the see-now-buy-now moment in a way no other designer has by committing to it on another level from a production, design and delivery perspective, and by making it a social/digital tidal wave triggered by the power of Gigi Hadid, who collaborates on the Tommy x Gigi capsule collection. One hundred percent of the men’s, women’s and Gigi collection were available to purchase online the second they hit the runway. By the following morning, the collections will be shoppable in 20,000 physical points of sale. The whole shebang has dovetailed serendipitously with the revival of streetwear, logomania and Nineties nostalgia, which Hilfiger has major rights to — he was one of the original kings of logo-fied street gear the first time around twentysomething years ago. Oh, and earlier this month

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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
Begin: 2018-02-13 00:00:00
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
Begin: 2018-02-13 00:00:00
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
Begin: 2018-02-13 00:00:00
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
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Which long-suffering fan base is most deserving of a Stanley Cup this spring?

With all due respect to the Maple Leafs — who will be treated like the Eagles or Cubs of hockey when they finally win another championship — the Capitals, Blues and Jets can each stake a convincing claim to having the most tortured NHL followers.
www.espn.com – NHL

Spring 2018 Fashion Trend: Casual Satin

Designers worked light-catching satin into casual silhouettes for day.

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Stella McCartney Men’s Spring 2018

For her third see-now-buy-now men’s collection, Stella McCartney took Ibiza as her muse, dressing her man in loose-fitting trousers and breezy knits, hippie fringes and parrot prints.
“It’s a celebration of summer with lightness and unexpected colors — and there’s a hippy-trippy side, too,” said the designer who whipped up a pastel lilac suit with loose, pooling trousers. Based on one of her father Paul McCartney’s suits it has a tighter fit with buttons that are set closer together.
Other standout pieces included a chunky cardigan with deep patch pockets and sun setting on the back, an oversize faux suede jacket with fringes, and lineup of boxy cotton shirts, some with the Stella McCartney logo, others done in fluorescent green and others still covered in parrots.
In keeping with her sustainability efforts, cashmere sweaters were made from recycled bits that would otherwise have ended up on the cutting room floor, while the fringed jacket was made from Alter Suede, which McCartney also uses for her women’s collections.
The collection wasn’t all sea, sand and Seventies sunsets, though. McCartney also drew inspiration from the artwork of Pater Sato, the Japanese airbrush artist. His bright colors and otherworldly ladies appeared on shirts or the linings of

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Men’s Spring 2018 Trend: Patch It Up

Ever more freewheeling, men’s wear boasts logos galore, streetwear and retro touches, plus bold prints.
 
Grooming by Amanda Wilson at Opus Beauty
Models: Aly N’Diaye and Andrew Muns at Red Model Management; Clement Cornebize and Luke Blake at Wilhelmina

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Take Two: Uniqlo Planning Second J.W. Anderson Collaboration in Spring

SECOND TIME AROUND: Uniqlo and J.W. Anderson are working on a second capsule collection, for spring 2018, in the wake of a successful fall launch, the Japanese fast fashion giant confirmed on Tuesday.
Uniqlo said it had seen a “positive response worldwide” for the fall 2017 line. The new collection will include items for men and women and will be available at all Uniqlo stores worldwide and through the retailer’s website.

The campaign for the first Uniqlo x J.W. Anderson collaboration. 

Anderson said the collaboration was “super-exciting” for him. “I am proud of it, and I think the pieces are incredibly well made. The line was also good bridge between the ideal of British classicism and my own brand,” he said.
Looking ahead, he said the spring collection “is about items that interlink with each other. It’s about layering this time. The idea is to mix and match things together.”
SEE ALSO: Every Piece from J.W. Anderson X Uniqlo First Collaboration >>
The overall collaboration was developed around the themes of practical, everyday British classics with a signature J.W. Anderson twist.
The 33-piece fall collection for Uniqlo’s LifeWear launched in September with pieces that include a duffle coat, an oversized striped turtleneck with ties around the wrists,

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The Met Counts on Vatican for Costume Institute’s Spring Exhibition Pieces

LIKE A PRAYER: Some scholars and pundits contest that religion is the root of most of the conflict in the world, but that hasn’t deterred the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute from taking on “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” as its spring exhibition.
The juxtaposition of fashion and masterworks of religious art will be designed to examine fashion’s ongoing engagement with the devotional practices and traditions of Catholicism. The Met has arranged to showcase a group of papal robes and accessories from the Vatican, highlighting the enduring influence of liturgical vestments on designers. A battery of designers — Thierry Mugler, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano for the House of Dior, Claire McCardell, Madeleine Vionnet, Isabel Toledo, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, Elsa Schiaparelli, Raf Simons for his own label and the House of Dior — will have their work on view.
The multilayered exhibition will be held at The Met Fifth Avenue in both the medieval galleries and the Anna Wintour Costume Center. The show will also be housed in the city’s northern regions at The Met Cloisters, creating a trio of distinct gallery locations. When the show opens, Met ticket holders will wander amid 50 ecclesiastical

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Toga RTW Spring 2018

Thanks to support from Amazon Fashion via its At Tokyo program, Yasuko Furuta presented her first show in Tokyo in 12 years, and it just so happened to coincide with her brand’s 20th anniversary. The designer said she views it as her job to always be creating new things, and therefore, she didn’t want to pull styles from her archives but wanted to create a collection that was as representative of her brand as possible. Her models descended via escalator to a curved runway set up on the ground floor of the National Art Center Tokyo. She added feminine detailing such as cinched waists and cropped lengths to men’s wear, while masculine shapes and tailoring was mixed into her women’s offering. Pleated skirts had a hole in the front for one leg to pass through, dresses had high slits or a single long sleeve, and trousers had wide legs and high waists. A series of subtly deconstructed suiting included jackets that were turned inside out or had cutout backs or lopped off sleeves. Furuta incorporated a variety of eye-catching textures, from clear vinyl and sheer mesh to plastic-y crinkle fabrics and a ruched metallic plaid.

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J Brand RTW Spring 2018

Staged in a sun-filled studio set with loads of green plants and wicker chairs on which the models lounged, it was easy to infer an organic, clean California aesthetic from J Brand’s spring collection. The collection’s jeans — many cropped with high waists, wide or straight legs in powdery pink, natural off-white and traditional blue indigo — will pair well with the pottery-loving, gluten- and dairy-free cool girl’s lifestyle. From jean jackets to white Ts to a black leather miniskirt, the shapes were mostly clean and classic with little to no whiskering and the only distressing a raw hem or two. For the first time, men’s was included in the presentation, with the guys playing perfect counterpart to the girls in skinny jeans and relaxed jackets in shades of white, gray and faded blue.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2018

Elegant, modern and minimalist, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s spring collection showed a polish and professionalism that can only be gained through experience. They showed largely monotone looks in neutral shades of khaki, brown, black and white, with some snakeskin print thrown in for contrast. Long, pleated organza skirts were worn over slim pants with slits at the back of the ankles, and jackets were layered over calf-length dresses. A collaboration with The North Face produced outdoorsy anorak jackets in extralong or ultracropped lengths, providing the perfect contrast to the contemporary urban aesthetic of the other pieces.

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Viviano Sue RTW Spring 2018

Both the show notes and the runway, with its garden-like installation at the end, made Sue’s inspiration for spring clear: flowers and nature. He used a literal interpretation, turning out loose chiffon dresses, ruffled blouses and oversized shirts in a variety of botanical prints. He mixed these with black satin bomber jackets and trousers that snapped down the side like track pants. A series of monotone ensembles in dusty rose felt out of place, and the show closed with a grouping of tulle dresses with long trains and lots of gathering. In all black or all white, some of these were reminiscent of wedding dresses, and also distracted from the rest of the collection.

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Fortuna Tokyo RTW Spring 2018

Akiko Koba aims to support Japanese craftsmanship by using traditional woven silk fabrics in her collections. For her first presentation during Tokyo Fashion Week, she showed tailored suits and preppy cuffed shorts and polo shirts for men, and short suits, tweed jackets, and swing dresses for women. While the silhouettes have been seen countless times before, the textiles were beautiful.

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Mikio Sakabe RTW Spring 2018

Mikio Sakabe has long been one of Japan’s favorite avant-garde brands, and the spring offering was no exception. Now designed by the founder and his wife, Shueh Jen-Fang, its latest collection featured quirky takes on colorful Eighties power suits. V-neck buttoned dresses were layered over ruffled blouses, and skirts and jacket sleeves were voluminous to the max. The looks were complemented by extreme platform shoes, causing the models to step gingerly down the runway. The show closed with a coat and suit jacket in a dainty floral print, each with padded, three-dimensional protrusions in the shape of hearts or stars.

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Nerd Unit RTW Spring 2018

Overt military references permeated Ronald Chew’s latest streetwear offering. A large portion of the collection was turned out in a geometric camouflage print in either green or gray, and some looks were accessorized with a flag, combat helmet or police hat. A workman-style jumpsuit for men and a women’s ensemble consisting of a black velour T-shirt and wide-leg pants provided a small dose of variety, but overall the cargo pants and parkas felt repetitive.

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Licht Ster RTW Spring 2018

Naoshi Sawayanagi formerly ran his own eponymous label, but now he has teamed with Hikari, niece of Japanese fashion designer Junko Koshino, on this new brand. It showed a mix of ath-leisure and preppy looks, nearly all in stark white, that would all have looked right at home in a country club. But the cropped racer-back tanks, tennis dresses, jogger pants, sports shorts and blazers quickly became repetitive and failed to provide excitement.

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Original Penguin Taps Band AJR for Spring 2018 Campaign

Men’s wear brand Original Penguin has tapped New York-based indie band AJR for its spring campaign, to be released in February of next year. Brothers Adam, Jack and Ryan Met were in Los Angeles this week to shoot the campaign as well as the music video for their single “Come Hang Out,” off their new album “The Click,” a version of which will also serve as the video campaign for OP’s spring collection.

Adam, Jack and Ryan Met of AJR. 
Jim Metzger

“The shoot is some performance and some facial expressions, sort of like acting,” said Jack Met, explaining the concept of the video. “We are at a crazy party, but we are so busy performing that we don’t really notice the party going on around us,” he said.
Adam Met explained that it’s their first time linking with a fashion brand. “Original Penguin has great style, great simplicity and a throwback vibe that mirrors our style as a band. I also like the juxtapositions in the line, like a Seventies print shirt with Nineties pants. It’s sort of our like our music, a post-modern mix.”
The band of brothers, who have been playing together for 12 years, got their start as street performers in

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Discovered Men’s Spring 2018

Tatsuya Kimura and Sanae Yoshida went grungy for spring, layering hooded sweatshirts, coats and loose-fitting pants in mixed plaids, denim, tie-dye and patchwork. Interspersed were a few more elegant looks of tailored black pants and jackets with flame motifs embroidered above the hems. And — likely due to the brand winning last season’s DHL Designer Award — there were also DHL branded T-shirts and bandages worn over nose bridges, which felt forced and over the top.

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Murral RTW Spring 2018

Many of the textiles selected by Ayumi Sekiguchi and Yusuke Muramatsu for their spring collection seemed to come from interior design elements, including curtains, upholstery and cushion covers. There was lots of lace, ruffles and scalloped trim on girly dresses and long skirts, while a bathrobe so closely resembled curtains that it even had a rope belt with tasseled ends. The designers also used botanical motifs, with floral accents embroidered onto the sleeves of jackets or the fronts of blouses.

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Memuse RTW Spring 2018

For her debut collection, Risa Aizawa drew inspiration from the neighborhood of Akihabara in Tokyo, which is known as a center of anime, manga and video game culture. She showed both innocent, Lolita-like looks, such as a quilted white dress with flounce sleeves and a bloomers-and-bib combo with a chiffon cape over the top, and darker, edgier pieces like skin-baring black HotPants and crop tops and body-con dresses covered in attached teddy bears. There was even a maid’s outfit, a nod to the fetishized “maid cafes” that are famous in Akihabara.

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2018

Tory Burch’s Sport line is not for the girl who wants to blend in with the legions of fitness fiends clad in black leggings, black sports bras and black tanks with a white swoop here or there. Her line goes big with happy color, for spring, inspired by David Hicks, as was her main line. Burch brought Hick’s florals and bold, graphic color into sport with printed navy and scarlet bomber, an orange and blue sports bra and leggings, and a floral-printed Neoprene zip-up one-piece swimsuit.
It wasn’t just cute. Burch takes the performance aspect of the collection seriously, pushing her staff to infuse technical development into everything, whether it’s Coolmax cashmere sweatpants, a ruffled tennis sweater or golf vest. “I said, ‘Let’s make functionality a given, not a design detail,’” said Burch during a preview. In addition to working with fabrics with wicking, cooling and anti-microbial properties, golf skirts come with under-shorts and pockets big enough for scorecards and a yellow and navy jacket is fully reversible to a waterproof rain slicker. As for the Little Grumps frowny-faced tennis balls that have become a charming brand logo and graced a fresh white oversize sweater, pastel sweatshirts and Ts, well, that

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Black Eye Patch RTW Spring 2018

This brand, designed anonymously, put on a presentation that was part fashion show and part street performance, all set in an old Noh theater. Bikers popped wheelies in branded satin parkas, and skateboarders did laps in hooded sweatshirts, baggy shorts and oversize coats. Athletic influences were seen in track skirts and sweatpants, but the most common denominator were the logos, which were printed prominently on nearly every piece.

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Yukihero Pro-Wrestling RTW Spring 2018

Cowabunga, dudes! Yukihiro Teshima said he wanted to realize one of his childhood dreams with his spring show, and so he got Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles to join in the fun. Cheerleaders jumped around shaking gold pom-poms and threw each other into the air, creating a fun, festivallike atmosphere. The clothes were less exciting, with lots of simple shapes like work-inspired shirts, pants and coveralls, as well as outdoorsy shorts and rain ponchos. Teshima did his best to spice things up with color and quirky prints, including turtles, tiles, pizza and tie-dye.

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Enhance RTW Spring 2018

Masakazu Takeguchi’s first show for Tokyo Fashion Week had a rock concert vibe, with the entire audience standing, the closest members just inches from the raised, narrow runway. The clothes followed a similar vein, with long fringe hanging from tank tops, skirts, trousers and shorts. All-black looks included jeans splattered in white paint, an open-knit sweater and dresses with uneven hems. While overall the look was very street, a variety of blazers and tailored separates added polish.

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AG RTW Spring 2018

AG’s team of designers was inspired by Joan Didion for spring — everything from her personal style and writing, down to certain descriptive words she used in interviews. Didion’s balance of vulnerable writing against a fearlessness in speaking her mind translated into silhouettes that balanced masculine and feminine design, as in a boxy utilitarian jacket, men’s-inspired shirting and rigid denim with raw hems, paint splatter and embroidery. The subdued color palette of washed-down blues, desert tones and green further referenced her writings on nature.

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5-Knot RTW Spring 2018

Ena Kizawa and Taketo Nishino mixed urban and rural influences for spring, showing sweet, pastel gingham skirts and floral blouses alongside slick, plasticky stirrup pants and sparkling crop tops in bright shades of magenta and lemon. For the most part, silhouettes were loose and easy, and chiffon and lace were paired with clear vinyl and metallic fabrics. The offering felt repetitive and would have benefited from a good edit.

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Boss RTW Spring 2018

Going into his fourth year at the helm of Hugo Boss women’s collections, Jason Wu has chosen to simplify, streamline and lighten things up, not only in terms of the collection’s aesthetic but in his approach to presenting it. He’s stepped away from the runway for the past few seasons, presenting in Boss’ downtown Manhattan showroom after the madness of fashion month ends and skipped pre-collection presentations altogether.
“No one needs to see that much clothes,” Wu said. That doesn’t mean he’s not producing. In addition to the spiffy, nautical-themed spring lineup, there’s a new capsule Gallery collection that’s for Boss stores only. It’s full of colorblocking, bright tailored separates and soft pleated skirts.
As for spring, “It’s a lot less dressy and more casual,” he said, noting that he’s been focused on taking the stuffing out of Boss’ signature rigid suiting for the past few seasons, offering the Boss woman a lot in the way of chic and relaxed. The graphic print on a pretty draped and gently pleated dress was actually mini yellow and blue fish. A bright yellow boxy jacket was done in waterproof bonded nylon, like an update of a classic fisherman’s slicker. A neat navy peacoat came

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Elza Winkler RTW Spring 2018

Previously a pattern cutter for Yohji Yamamoto and in charge of tailored jackets and dresses for Alexander McQueen under Sarah Burton, Eiichiro Nakai has undeniable skill at cutting and constructing garments. He showed blazers and full-skirted trenchcoats with voluminous, structured collars, delicate pastel-colored chiffon dresses with high-low hems, and a series of statement gowns covered in crinkled wisps of fabric. It was elegant and sophisticated, even if not particularly new or exciting.

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Keisukeyoshida RTW Spring 2018

Keisuke Yoshida put his own spin on Seventies-inspired staples such as bell-bottoms, blouses with tiny, allover floral prints, and striped tracksuits. He showed jumpsuits with multiple cutouts in the front and up both sides, sometimes tied together with strips of fabric and sometimes left open. There were more conservative looks, too — such as a black-and-white pencil skirt and blouse combo, with a ribbed hem reminiscent of an athletic jacket, but they still fit the overall theme for a fun and cohesive collection.

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Yohei Ohno RTW Spring 2018

Yohei Ohno mixed vinyl, nylon and sheer mesh with natural fabrics such as cotton, linen and seersucker for feminine dresses and skirts, some with cinched waists and exaggerated puff sleeves. While his palette consisted mostly of primary colors and neutrals, there were flashes of silver and gold in a pair of vinyl gloves and a glittering bag.

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BYO RTW Spring 2018

When he was asked to show his BYO handbags in a runway show a few seasons ago, Jakarta-based accessories designer Tommy Ambiyo jumped at the chance, but he was disappointed to see the accessories taking a backseat to the clothes they were shown with. So he decided to create his own wearable pieces that would showcase, not eclipse, his bags.
The result was eye-catching, if not completely wearable, tops made from the same woven plastic and latex as his handbags. The materials were woven together to create clutches and totes, some simple, and some embellished with plastic paillettes and pieces resembling feathers.
In this case, the tops were a colorful complement to the bags, and Ambiyo kept the rest of the styling minimal, sending out models in the same navy skirts and black pumps, with slicked-back hair and no-makeup makeup.
Ambiyo has found success in is home country, selling more than 6,000 bags in the two years since he relaunched his label. He said the vibrant colors were inspired by the solar eclipse, noting, “During an eclipse you see the craziest colors in the sky.”

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Figue RTW Spring 2018

The crisp awning stripes of Positano merged with the rustic coastal flavor of Trancoso, Brazil in Stephanie von Watzdorf’s spring Figue collection. She kept her signature perennially vacation-ready, bohemian staples fresh with new languid kimonos, the coolest one done in pieces of many vibrant prints and voluminous cotton shirts — some striped, some solid, some a mix of prints — that cutaway almost to a dress length. The kimonos and shirts looked great over printed pajama pants and beachy cotton styles jazzed up with tassels but would work just as well with jeans. For accessories, she introduced a fully beaded moccasin sneaker and slip-on sneakers with decorated with fluffy pom-poms.

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Eloshi RTW Spring 2018

Georgian designer Lela Eloshvili straddled antiquity and modernity for spring and the effect was a balance of opposites.
“Eloshi’s collection speaks [to] history,” the designer explained.
Eloshvili has played with proportion in the past with her line and spring was no different. A portion of the runway looks appeared reminiscent of the Eighties with strong shoulders or boxy suiting references against a strong palette of black, white and red.
The inspiration, Eloshvili said, was 20th-century Georgia when women in the country dressed with Western influences.
In contrast, the rest of the collection looked to Georgian history with references to wine-making and traditional clothing. The mood of that portion of the collection was lighter through the use of silk fabrics and natural cotton. Eloshvili created her own prints, mixing imagery of grapes and the Georgian alphabet for a skirt with a fitted bodice that flared out or loose-fitting shirtdress.
She also drew inspiration from the Chokha, a traditional Georgian garment, with elements of the cinched-waist coat used throughout the collection.
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Jeffry Tan RTW Spring 2018

Jakarta-based designer Jeffry Tan is known in Asia for his draped eveningwear inspired by the clean lines of urban architecture. Most of the silhouettes were plays on the bias-cut column dress, several of which he spiced up with diagonal stripes or crisscross straps.
This season, Tan said he was branching out into more streetwear-inspired looks such as slouchy satin trousers, which he paired with sharp-shouldered jackets in silk crepe and satin.
These pieces were more effective than the blousy smocked dresses, which seemed too serious in black yet not formal enough to match the sophistication of the rest of the collection.
While he works in a mostly monochromatic palette, saying, “I’m a bad painter so I’m not good with color,” Tan did have a bright yellow and a fuchsia gown in the lineup. He also used his signature zigzag pattern to add interested to pant legs and side sleeves.
Tan and his fellow Jakarta-based designers were seeking a wider audience in Los Angeles, and many of their evening looks succeeded in generating attention from Hollywood stylists and bloggers.

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Noe Bernacelli RTW Spring 2018

Peruvian designer Noe Bernacelli made his U.S. debut at Los Angeles fashion week, but he’s already well-known in South America and Asia for his glamorous eveningwear. Having studied fashion design in Italy, Bernacelli’s intention when he returned home to found his company seven years ago was to raise the bar for designers in Peru, and the skill of his atelier was apparent in the body-skimming dresses and gowns featuring intricate beading and embroidery over sheer chiffon, mesh and lace. For spring, he stuck with an ivory and gold palette, punctuated by pops of royal blue and dark green. The lineup also featured a handful of well-tailored suits for men, with the same slim silhouettes as his evening gowns. One could easily see these clothes on a Hollywood red carpet — the dresses already populate the society and editorial pages of Hola and Vogue Latin America — and a natural next step would be to translate the already romantic looks into bridal.

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Gauchère RTW Spring 2018

Marie-Christine Statz found a new fabric to explore with this season: lace. But not the fluffy, dusty kind from granny’s closet, this was technical lace, a chic, black grid that projected a sporty look.
Statz used it to construct a sleeveless dress that gently puffed out from a gathered waist, paired with long, loose black trousers — proof that the collision between daywear and nightwear can actually work.
There was also plenty for the day job, including suits with layers, slits and buttons. The trousers on one pair could be transformed into long, wide shorts, it was just a case of tackling the ring of buttons at the knees.
“I think it’s about easy simplicity….I wanted it to not be overdramatic. This is the woman I can somehow relate to,” Statz noted. She drove the point home with her use of a fine, light gray wool that formed part of the masculine-feminine mix of this engaging collection.

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Stella McCartney Accused Of Cultural Appropriation For Using Ankara Prints In Her Spring Collection

“We all know African prints are awesome and beautiful. Appreciate them, but don’t make it look like you just discovered them.”
Fashion News, Celebrity Style and Fashion Trends – HuffPost Style
FASHION NEWS UPDATE-Visit Shoe Deals Online today for the hottest deals online for shoes!

Leal Daccarett RTW Spring 2018

For the second Parisian presentation of their brand Leal Daccarett, Colombian designers Karen Daccarett and Francisco Leal offered a flirtatiously Latin collection that steered clear of clichés while tapping into its home country and its layered, dance-filled heritage.
Established in 2008, the brand helmed by the married duo became a fast favorite of the current First Lady of Colombia, María Clemencia De Santos, who was spotted wearing their designs on state visits, most notably to Spain and the U.K.
La Fantástica, their summer line, ranged from bathing suits to floor-length dresses — whether these were exuberant daywear or low-key evening fare was left up to the wearer. With just enough froth to make it fun, the collection had denims adorned with charming character patches or coral pieces; a blue denim set of a long jacket and wide trousers embellished with raw-edged ruffles; tiered dresses in a navy and white palm print, and long caftans. Cottons, silk and denim came together in a palette of blues and whites.
“It’s a proud moment to be Colombian, and we’re showing who we are and how comfortable we are with that,” Leal said during a showroom appointment.

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Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2018

The fashion bubble. We all know what it means: that from right after Labor Day until whatever date in early October, our lives are consumed by fashion. Sorry, friends; life partners; kids starting school, whether pre-K or college, fashion takes priority, the most important thing.
Only we all know that that’s not really true, that many things are far more important than fashion. Just ask anyone in the industry who was on the show circuit on Sept. 11, 2001. On Monday, a day of unimaginable tragedy in the U.S., Paris Fashion Week went on, the fashion throng assembling for the Alexander McQueen show as the Las Vegas death toll mounted. There’s no good way to transition to a fashion review, but to not acknowledge the event feels wildly uncomfortable.
Backstage before her show, McQueen’s Sarah Burton talked about her desire to deliver an optimistic collection, a notion expressed by a number of designers this season. “So many terrible things happen in the world. We should celebrate people and fashion and creativity,” she said. “I wanted to celebrate beauty and femininity. I wanted to do an uplifting collection.”
And so she did, an exquisite one based on English gardens, specifically the gardens at Great

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Sacai RTW Spring 2018

Every season Chitose Abe draws on different references to dice and dissect into her signature hybrid fashions. In that sense, the collections never look the same but there is a deep consistency. This time the look felt genuinely new. It was a fabulous collection — pretty, fresh, fun, cool, wearable. All the good stuff.
It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what Abe did differently. The hybridizations were still there, in jackets and skirts pieced together from colorful strips of men’s wear glen plaid. A riff on a men’s vest was made into a sporty dress assembled from patches of camouflage, nylon and pinstripes. And a crewneck sweater was spliced with a piece of a madras shirt and florals.
Infused with a fresh, feel-good attitude, the garments felt lighter and easier than usual despite intense constructions. One of the best looks was a long skirt made from panels of different fabrics — a piece of a trench sewn together with a piece of flowy pleated magenta fabric, green satin and light blue shirting material, creating a rainbow of a garment paired with a simple, sporty tank printed with the words “Beware It’s Everywhere.” Backstage after the show, Abe, who was wearing a T-shirt with

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Talbot Runhof RTW Spring 2018

Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof expressed a serene state of mind through a collection featuring clean, lean shapes with a strong Seventies vibe.
That wasn’t the only thing the decade provided. Shantung, one fabric of the season, evoked a zen feeling, while the flower-power connection was impossible to miss. Blooms climbed on everything, starting with 3-D flowers on a poplin shirt, to embroidered crystal motifs along the waist of a dress, lending their color palette of white, greens and brights.
Despite an overwhelming turquoise floral jacquard, the collection ended up coming across as pared back, even in the evening styles they are famed for. The best looks were those that struck a glamorous note: a short-sleeved pantsuit in golden yellow, a turquoise shiftdress, wide white trousers and a multilayered blue evening dress.

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Alessandra Rich RTW Spring 2018

Alessandra Rich always concocts a charmingly daffy story, usually of a young girl with big dreams and questionable taste, within which to frame her ditzy-fab dresses. For spring it began with the iconic “V-J Day in Times Square” photo of a sailor impulsively kissing a nurse (she was actually a dental assistant) in celebration of the end of the Second World War. Rich had a new story for the nurse: “The young girl moved on, she still loves uniforms, matched with diamond brooches and huge jewel buttons, but now you’re going to have to fight to kiss her,” read the show notes, which were as fun and fanciful as the collection.
As the girl moved on, Rich did too, expanding beyond her standard repertoire of glam, gauche dresses with military-inspired tailoring and posh but plucky tweeds. A blue admirals jacket was done with rhinestone buttons instead of brass and a cheekier — literally — version was cut just below the bum and worn as a dress. Although worn with geek-chic glasses with gold chain-link lanyards, Rich’s tweed jackets were more suited to a day at the pool than the library as they came in candy colors and were worn with HotPants.
The

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Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2018

Now the cool boys in Isabel Marant’s entourage can rest easy: The French designer has finally come through with men’s wear, and it’s here to stay. “I gave in to popular demand,” she admitted backstage, saying the campaign had been going on since her popular H&M hookup four years ago. The guys were offered thick gauge knits that poured over their shoulders like treacle, Windbreakers and toothsome trackpants, with rope flip-flops or slides on the feet.
But back to the girls. The show started with crisp white: frilled shirts; ingénue broderie anglaise minidresses; denim with circular patterns piercing the legs; a double-breasted jacket tucked into trousers that were loose on the thigh and tight at the ankle. Sporty details started to crop up.
By midway point, the collection hit its stride, brash colors and metallic materials bringing a sporty-glam mien: boiler suits rolled down to reveal swimwear; trackpants were cut from shimmery florals and paired with voluminous tops; lightweight blousons could pass for shirtdresses, and high-cut briefs had the aplomb of daring shorts. Whenever she went too high on the leg and too voluminous on the sleeve, it didn’t quite work, like wearing stilettos to the beach. Performance water sports details —

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Manish Arora RTW Spring 2018

Manish Arora was in an amorous mood for spring. His pastel-infused “Ready for Love” collection was a joyous riot of vintage-inspired psychedelic prints, elaborate embroideries, rich Indian brocades, sequined motifs and Middle Eastern references.
Luxurious sleepwear-inspired designs with a dream-catcher pattern mingled with guipure gowns covered in hearts, kitschy embellished knitwear and embroidered denim jackets. Sequined boxer shorts, pants and dresses, brocade or printed bombers and a chain-mail top made up of interlinked embroidered hands all contributed to the festivities.
The designer’s romantic message was sewn in sequins on a couple of looks, adding a touch of street into this maelstrom of candy-colored extravagance.
Skirts and dresses came in mid-calf and floor-length designs, either flowing or wrapped around the body. The transparency that is all over the Paris runways was interpreted in washed out fluorescent or gold layers of tulle that softened up certain looks.
Arora managed to evoke femininity and frivolity in one fell swoop with this rainbow of a collection, a welcome ray of sunshine in contrast with the rainy Paris day outside.

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Y/Project RTW Spring 2018

Glenn Martens didn’t reinvent what he’s been doing at Y/Project for his spring collection, but he did cast a new eye on the quintessential dorky dad in his Hawaiian shirt and khakis; the goody-two shoes country club girl in her pink cardigan, white blouse and pearls; and the Nineties suburban kid who listened to rap in his fleece, jeans and Timberlands. Martens gave these uniforms of mundanity, conformity and complete lack of imagination a new lease on life. Even the natty, shapless faded red polo worn to death by an endearingly clueless goof I was smitten with a few years ago had hope in Martens’ hands. It was reimagined as a crop top with a drawstring waist and worn over bunched tulle pants.
Taking what’s familiar and basic way out of its comfort zone is Martens’ gift and goal. It’s within the universe of what Demna Gvasalia started Vetements with, but Martens’ vision is far more romantic. “Y/Project is always about individuality and reinforcing personality and characters,” he said backstage. “Sometimes on the catwalk you see different kind of women, but sometimes also all these women are new.” He gave play-the-rules stereotypes permission to break the mold, cutting a pair of

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Jacquemus RTW Spring 2018

Mom. The first influencer. At some point, many designers offer overt homage. Simon Porte Jacquemus did so initially by taking his mother’s maiden name, Jacquemus, for his collection. For spring, he celebrated a specific element of her style. “I don’t think I ever saw my mother more beautiful than on evenings after the beach and probably when she was in love,” he wrote in his program notes. Mother and son would take a walk, visiting “souvenir shops filled with earrings, ceramics, sarongs and headbands.” “La bombe,” he called her archetype.
La bombe’s vibe of upbeat, beach-y glamour defined the collection, “the idea of going down to the harbor after a long day at the beach and wanting to feel beautiful,” Jacquemus said post-show. Yet he presented in the glorious Picasso Museum, perhaps to telegraph that these clothes are polished enough for any urban situation. While so many other designers, young and not so, are racing to do street, Jacquemus’s theme let him have it both ways – dressing down as a way of dressing up, keeping the attitude cool and the look hot. What’s more relaxed than artfully mismatched drop earrings and, for heels, whimsical geometric configurations? What’s sexier that a swimsuit reimagined

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Edithmarcel RTW Spring 2018

Old Greece and streetwear informed Gianluca Ferracin and Andrea Masato’s unisex collection Edithmarcel. The former was recalled via the use of color — the red and blue reminiscent of old Greece — while the use of materials such as denim, jersey, cotton and technical fabrics brought the streetwear sensibility into the lineup. In terms of cuts, everything read casual, almost uniform like. “We printed our logo in everything from jackets to dress shirts — its genderless; pants and skirts have elastic waistbands, jackets are fluid, shirts have that boyfriend fit,” explained Ferracin, who has a fashion design background, while his partner Masato comes from the architecture field.
 

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Trussardi RTW Spring 2018

Gaia Trussardi’s spring collection, the first for which she combined men’s and women’s on the runway, was a nice display of how a leather goods house can translate its main material into clothes. She used a flight motif — airplanes, parachutes, Amelia Earhart — to frame chic bomber jackets, airy parachute dresses, and utility tailoring, such as shirts, leather shorts, jumpsuits and smartly cut trenches. Some of the pieces were leather and suede, but not all. Trussardi used it as an accent on skirts spliced with leather strips. At times sensual — dresses had cutout backs and shirts were shown open over bra tops — the lineup had an alluring relaxed polish.
 

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Vionnet RTW Spring 2018

Before a stitch of clothing was seen on the runway, Vionnet’s spring show was a coup for Goga Ashkenazi. She managed to secure as a venue Milan’s church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, where, behind a wall in the cloisters where the show was held, sits one of the most famous works of art in the history of man: The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. A private tour of the painting was offered for guests after the show. That Ashkenazi was able to convince the head priest to lend her such a hallowed space for a fashion show — the first ever to take place there — is a testament to her chutzpah, which is the force driving the oil and gas executive to resuscitate the house of Vionnet.
Her spring collection was proof that she’s come a long way on the steep fashion learning curve since taking over the house. Despite the show venue, da Vinci codes in the collection were tenuous. “For me, Madeleine Vionnet was timeless and da Vinci was timeless,” Ashkenazi said backstage. Rather, the lineup was born mostly from an obsession with Bushido, Japanese samurai culture, which lent itself nicely to Vionnet’s signature draping. Long,

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Rossella Jardini RTW Spring 2018

Rossella Jardini’s mix of feminine elegance and ironic playfulness was clearly in evidence in her spring 2018 collection. The classic white shirt served as the starting point for the whole lineup. The staple was re-interpreted in an array of variations. A crisp cotton shirt featured seductive cutouts at the shoulders and was matched with a skirt trimmed with ruffles. Another micro striped style with a patch pocket was knotted below the bust and matched with a circle skirt. Shirt dresses included a short, flared style worked in a polka dot pattern, as well as a maxi number splashed with a graphic, pop motif of stars and hearts. The “Jardinette” print, featuring artist Antonio Pippolini’s colorful sketched portraits of Jardini, gave a playful touch to an airy silk dress embellished with a drawstring at the waist. With its easy silhouettes, chic colors and feminine touches, the collection definitely enables Jardini to proclaim, as she did on one of her T-shirts for spring: “I’m the most elegant woman I know!”

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The Gigi RTW Spring 2018

Ana Gimeno Brugada demonstrated her sophisticated color sensibility with a charming collection that leaned heavily on her personal style, which focuses on a mannish attitude softened by lively feminine accents. Playing with garment dyeing, she created degrade effects on a pair of sky blue cotton pants matched with a coordinated ruffled shirt. The set was worn with a chic orange velvet blazer embellished with buttons embossed with the image of a crown. A blue jacket trimmed in white was worn over a cotton shirt and a cropped sweater and was matched with floral jacquard oversized short pants, infused with a tomboy feel. A glossy finish gave an interesting look to a yellow trench paired with purple pants and a striped jumper. Gimeno Brugada managed to infuse new energy into traditional silhouettes, which should appeal to those women who don’t shy away from bold colors.

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Amanda Wakeley RTW Spring 2018

Amanda Wakeley has a friend who upped sticks and moved to Uraguay, bought a ranch and now splits her time between London and riding horses in the South American wild. Pictures of her friend on horseback and musings on her new way of life were the basis for Wakeley’s spring collection, which was rich with subtle references to the Americas.
Bright flashes of sunshine yellow freshened the black, white and khaki palette, while nods to traditional gaucho and Romani gypsy costumes were seen in the whipstitching on the wide straps of bags, striped webbing belts that cinched dresses, and in bohemian silk peasant blouses.
But this is Amanda Wakeley. There was nothing quaint or Spaghetti Western about these looks. Wakeley’s woman is more luxe feminine boho than frontier trading post settler. A white silk peasant blouse trimmed with a fine black ribbon at the neck was teamed with a pair of wide-legged pants in a sporty black-and-white stripe, and belted with a yellow striped sash, while a fluid silk gown in a black, white and yellow scarf print conveyed ethnicity without approaching pastiche.
Jumpsuits with field pockets on the chest in khaki or white looked great and added a nice utilitarian vibe, while

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Faustine Steinmetz RTW Spring 2018

For Faustine Steinmetz’s first foray on the runway, the Parisian-born designer focused on reworking classic wardrobe pieces such as a trenchcoat, denim jeans and a tracksuit.
“I want to show what the brand is about,” said Steinmetz. “I wanted to take ten pieces of clothing that everyone has had and just redo [them]. Deconstruct [them]. Show [them] in lots of different ways but always keeping the same patterns. It’s called facsimile. We photocopied the patterns of these pieces and then got creative with the fabric. The concept is to re-create everyday pieces, in our own way and make them special.”
She cleverly demonstrated her artisanal craftsmanship, taking traditional silhouettes and fusing her own techniques and finishes on sustainable materials.
The designer took apart a trenchcoat which was haphazardly cut and torn and worn over a satin white dress that had a deconstructed hem. Steinmetz hand-painted another overcoat style with slick oil paints, which gave it a slightly shiny and waxed effect.
Elsewhere, she injected florals and deconstructed a long scarf with a botanical print and fashioned it as a blouse by draping the soft fabric over shoulders and held together with invisible straps. This was paired with denim jeans.
She debuted men’s wear and created

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Front Row At Versus RTW Spring 2018

VIDEO STAR: Lottie Moss looks set to join the ranks in the vlogosphere. “I get so many people [on Instagram] asking what I’m wearing and what makeup I’m using that I thought people might like it if I did videos that show my fashion and beauty choices,” she said.
The model was recently  in L.A. to work on a big project that, so far, she’s keeping mum about. She tacked on a short break with a friend and played tour guide. “She’d never been to Los Angeles before so I showed her all the sights – Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Malibu. It was cool.”

Lottie Moss 
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While there, she posted a picture of herself in a tiny bikini by Same Swim that followed a video of her working out doing a side plank. One begets the other, really. “I try to see my trainer, three to four times a week,” she said. “We work hard! Sometimes it’s boxing and skipping, sometimes weights. Always different.”
Her front row neighbors included singer-songwriter Ne-Yo, who spent the pre-show moments making silly faces into his phone while taking selfies, and FKA Twigs, who had a refreshingly straightforward reason for braving the anti-fur protestors outside to attend the show,

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