Pitti Uomo and Milan Men’s Fashion Week: United They Stand

MILAN — Slim? Yes. Inconsequential? No.
There’s no arguing that the Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week calendar has shrunk in days and number of shows from years past and this season, which runs from June 15 to 17, it lost a cornerstone in Prada, which exceptionally decamped to Shanghai to show on June 6. Itinerant shows and coed collections in general have chipped away at Milan’s men’s calendar — but observers are still trumpeting its central role, especially pivoting around Pitti Uomo.
“Between Florence and Milan, it’s the most beautiful fashion week in the world,” enthused Brunello Cucinelli. “Pitti Uomo is an open-air fashion show, with 30,000 people walking around in a continuous exchange of ideas and it’s complementary to the big-name fashion shows in Milan, whose nature it is to hold such shows.”
Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Camera della Moda, has long been saying that Milan Men’s Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo together form one single Italian fashion week. “They have two different vocations but there’s no other country that has this kind of global offer and impact that Italy has,” Capasa contended, touting the 800 showrooms and 3,000 brands present in Milan.
“This is a story that comes around regularly, but Pitti

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WWD LIST: Seven Pitti Uomo Historic Exhibitors

Pitti Immagine may be turning 30 this year, but Pitti Uomo started its journey long before that. Since 1972, which marked the first edition of the Florentine trade show, the appeal of the fair has exponentially increased to reach its status of a key destination and barometer of what’s trending in men’s wear. Here’s a list of brands that have been exhibiting at the show since the beginning (or almost), dishing on what makes Pitti Uomo unique, how it evolved through the years and in what way it could further develop in the future.
 
1. HERNO
Italian outerwear label founded in 1948.
PITTI UOMO DEBUT: 1975
WHO: Claudio Marenzi, chief executive officer of Herno and Pitti Immagine president since 2017.
WHY PITTI UOMO: Because it’s the largest and most important trade show dedicated to men’s fashion. We have a very strong bond with it. My father Giuseppe, who founded Herno, recognized this Florentine show’s central role and importance in gathering brands and buyers hailing from all over the world.
BOOTH EVOLUTION: We remained loyal to our location in the central pavilion, in the area dubbed “Classico Italia.” But throughout the years, our stand expanded considerably. Starting last season we also added an exhibition space in the

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Pitti Immagine Uomo Seen by the Future Green Designers

Sustainability is the key word these days and tomorrow’s mandatory requisite. To this end, the Istituto Europeo di Design is preparing its students to approach the issue with all the necessary tools.
The Italian branch of the design school has teamed with CID, a consortium of Italian companies in charge of implementing the protocol proposed by Greenpeace on its global campaign Detox launched in 2011, with the purpose of encouraging the fashion industry to work on the elimination of hazardous substances from the production chain.
On the occasion of the 96th edition of the Pitti Uomo trade show to be held from June 11 to 14 in Florence, 15 students from fashion design and styling careers, hailing from schools in Milan, Rome, Florence, Turin and Como, will present five sustainable capsule collections under the concept “The Time Is Now!”
The project began last January with the students’ visit to the industrial district of Prato, famous in Italy for its textile production. The designers got in touch with the companies adhering to the Greenpeace Detox campaign, and had the chance to witness the production process in line with the sustainability parameters and select the eco-friendly and recycled fabrics and yarns supplied by the CID companies.
Videos filmed by the

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Sterling Ruby: Pitti Uomo a ‘No Brainer’ to Debut Collection

IN THE SPOTLIGHT: Los Angeles artist Sterling Ruby gave away little about the ready-to-wear label he’s set to launch in June during a breakfast for the upcoming Pitti Uomo save for one detail: the dark denim pair of jeans he was wearing from S.R. Studio. LA. CA., which he paired with a black hoodie.
The only other hint that’s been stated publicly in an announcement on the collection is it is to serve as a reinterpretation of American workwear.
The L.A. artist is a special guest of the trade show, presenting his first apparel collection — some 10 years in the making — at a June 13 event.
Ruby stood before media and other guests just ahead of breakfast being served.
“I’ve been interested in making clothes…for some time and most of it has been just kind of a private endeavor,” he said. “For the most part, it’s been something very internal. But over the last 10 years, I’ve started to understand the desire and the reasons why I was doing this to begin with, and I also started to work with people in the fashion industry, in the garment industry, from both owners of big luxury houses to the youngest designers.”
That’s included a

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Salvatore Ferragamo to Stage Men’s Show at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Salvatore Ferragamo will unveil its spring 2020 men’s wear collection in the brand’s native city, Florence.
The luxury fashion house will stage a runway show on June 11 during international men’s trade show Pitti Uomo.
Following three seasons of coed shows hosted during the women’s editions of Milan Fashion Week, Salvatore Ferragamo will hold the “Florence Calling” event dedicated to its men’s wear collection, designed by creative director Paul Andrew with the support of Guillaume Meilland, head of men’s wear. Andrew has recently put on hold his namesake footwear line to focus exclusively on the design of Salvatore Ferragamo men’s and women collections.
“Florence has always been a creative and inspirational platform for Salvatore Ferragamo and for our founder. Pitti Uomo is therefore the natural location for expressing the contemporary vision that represents us today: strong cultural continuity between different generations, with a constant eye to the future,” said Andrew.
“It is an opportunity for emphasizing our DNA, that added value that makes us distinctly unique,” he added.
Salvatore Ferragamo chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo put the focus on the special link between the company and its native city.
“Florence is our heart, a part of our history,” Ferragamo said. “At a moment of great consolidation

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Highlights From the Fall Offering at Pitti Uomo

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

Brunello Cucinelli 
Simone Lezzi/WWD

Designer: Brunello Cucinelli
Inspiration: The luxury label found the inspiration for its new collection in the elegance of the Fifties. Calling the lineup “Gentleman at Ease,” Cucinelli offered a relaxed take on classic tailoring. The brand, which this season enlarged its booth at Pitti Uomo, returned the focus to its wide offering of suits, which ranged from effortless-chic styles targeting the new generation of men to evening options. In keeping with this renewed attention on suits, Cucinelli recently introduced in key stores a made-to-measure program that enables shoppers to create customized tailoring styles while experiencing the brand’s Italian lifestyle in dedicated areas offering high-end facilities and services.
Key Styles: In the suiting range, while jackets were cut close to the body, Fifties-inspired high-waisted pants with double pleats were among a selection of wider, comfortable silhouettes. Fabrics spanned from traditional wools and cashmeres to flannels, corduroy and velvet. Knitwear took center stage with cozy crewneck and V-neck sweaters, sometimes embellished with sporty-chic tennis details that showed rich melange effects. The color palette focused on neutral tones of gray, blue and beige, enriched with accents of warm dark red and deep purple hues. — Alessandra Turra
 
Z ZEGNA

ZZegna 
Simone Lezzi/WWD

Designer: Alessandro Sartori
Inspiration: Innovation was

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EXCLUSIVE: Aldo Maria Camillo to Unveil Namesake Brand at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Aldo Maria Camillo will unveil the first collection of his namesake label at Pitti Uomo, running in Florence Jan. 8 to 11.
The designer was selected by the international men’s wear trade show at its Pitti Italics Special Event.
“Aldo Maria Camillo works exclusively and with great focus on men’s fashion studying the masculine silhouette, with the aim of giving a new imprint and freshness to men’s wear. His cultural references belong to an intimately classical background, supported by solid stylistic training and an acute sensitivity to current worldwide events — which goes beyond fashion. He has talent, imagination, and a sense of material,” said Pitti Immagine director of communications and events Lapo Cianchi. “The new project of Aldo Maria is very personal and immediately engaged us, because we believe that in men’s wear it is essential to return to the standards of elegance nonetheless, re-read and renewed in a modern key. We want to join him in this adventure — the launching of his self-named brand — which now more than ever before requires courage and determination.”
A graduate from the New York Fashion Institute of Technology, Camillo kicked off his career in 2003 as an assistant fashion designer at Valentino. Three

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Y/Project to Unveil Men’s Fall Collection at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Y/Project will show its men’s fall 2019 collection in Florence as guest brand of the next edition of international men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 8 to 11.
Y/Project’s collections are designed by Glenn Martens, who succeeded the brand’s founder Yohan Serfaty as creative director in 2013. Serfaty passed away that year.
Under the creative direction of Martens, the Paris-based label won the ANDAM Grand Prize award in 2017 and consolidated its presence in the most relevant department stores in the world, including Dover Street Market, Barneys, Selfridges, Lane Crawford and Jeffrey.
“Glenn Martens created for Y/Project a new aesthetic language, based on contradictions,” said Pitti Immagine communication and events director Lapo Cianchi. “Elegance is juxtaposed with eclectic and extravagant references, streetwear is enriched with historic details and exaggerated couture touches. The brand offers a highly conceptual design in line with the most advances projects in the market and Martens express a witty sense of humor and has a very personal fashion vision, based on freedom, experimentation and fun, without boundaries.”
Last June, Martens unveiled in Milan his capsule collection for the Diesel Red Tag label. Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli were the latest guests designer at Pitti Uomo last June.

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Florence to Bloom During Pitti Uomo

MILAN — “The big Italian and international trade shows have to [involve] the cities more and more,” said Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive officer of Pitti Uomo trade show’s organizer Pitti Immagine on Wednesday.
Napoleone presented the packed schedule of shows, presentations and special projects of the upcoming edition of the Florence-based men’s trade show, which runs June 12 -15. The comments were made because Pitti Uomo is set to be an event not only within the historic Fortezza da Basso location’s walls but throughout the whole city. “We’re really glad that the involvement [of Florence] in what we do in Fortezza da Basso is increasing,” said Napoleone.
On the inaugural day of the trade show, Gucci will unveil two new halls at the Gucci Garden Galleria exhibition space, housed inside the Gucci Garden, with a cocktail event. Opened during January’s edition and located inside the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia in Florence’s Piazza della Signoria, the space also hosts a restaurant curated by the three-Michelin-star chef Massimo Bottura and a store. For the occasion, the shop will showcase a limited-edition capsule collection featuring the illustrations of a new artist tapped by the fashion label for the first time, but whose name is yet to be

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Fumito Ganryu to Debut Namesake Label at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Japanese designer Fumito Ganryu is the latest new entry in the upcoming edition of men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo, running June 12 to 15 in Florence.
As part of Pitti’s “Designer Project,” he will unveil his new namesake brand at the trade show. Details regarding venue and time or date were not available at press time.
Previously, the designer launched the Ganryu brand operating under the Comme des Garçons umbrella in 2007, after cutting his teeth as pattern maker for Junya Watanabe starting from 2004. The Ganryu label was discontinued last year.
Earlier this month, Georgia was named guest nation of the trade show as part of the program promoted by Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery. The six Georgian brands and designers confirmed to present their collections in the special area of the Spazio Carra, at the Fortezza da Basso location, include Aznauri, Situationist, Anuka Keburia, Gola Damian, Tatuna Nikolaishvili and Vaska.
In addition, Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli will also show at Pitti Uomo. The former was named Menswear Guest Designer of the upcoming edition, while the latter was tapped as a special guest and will host a fashion show to relaunch men’s wear under the creative direction of Paul Surridge.

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Georgia Named Guest Nation at Pitti Uomo

MILAN – Georgia will be the guest nation of Pitti Uomo’s upcoming edition, running June 12 to 15 in Florence.
Six Georgian brands and designers will present their collections in the special area of the Spazio Carra, at the Fortezza da Basso location, as part of the program promoted by Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery with the goal to shine a spotlight on emerging creative talents from around the world.
The names confirmed for the showcase include Aznauri, Situationist, Anuka Keburia, Gola Damian, Tatuna Nikolaishvili and Vaska.
Irakli Rusadze, one of the leading Georgian designers, will present collections for both his Situationist label – also showcased at the last edition of Paris Fashion Week in March – and for the Aznauri brand, for which he serves as creative director.
Anuka Keburia, who founded her namesake label in 2006, will show her new range of clothes, accessories and footwear infused with black, edgy aesthetics, while the Gola Damian brand revisits Victorian style with a contemporary twist. Designer Tatuna Nikolaishvili develops a feminine and essential range, while Vaska’s founder Vasili Tabatadze mixes special fabrics, such as Japanese silks, and natural materials in his limited-edition line.

A Gola Damian look. 
Courtesy Photo

Previous featured guest nations have included Turkey, Denmark, Africa,

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COS Reportedly Said to Show as Special Guest at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Is Pitti Uomo opening to fast fashion?
According to a report on Italian web site Fashion Magazine, COS will host a fashion show at the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo, which will run June 12 to 15 in Florence.
This would mark the debut at the trade show for the H&M-owned accessible brand and the first time the exhibition would appoint a fast-fashion brand as special guest.
Reached on Thursday, the show organizer Pitti Immagine and the brand declined to comment on the report.
Last month, Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli were confirmed to show at Pitti Uomo. The former was named Menswear Guest Designer of the upcoming edition, while the latter was tapped as Special Guest and will host a fashion show to relaunch men’s wear under the creative direction of Paul Surridge.

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Pitti Uomo, Revolver Copenhagen Sign Partnership

Pitti Uomo has teamed with Revolver Copenhagen Int. Fashion Trade Show to bring a hint of Scandinavian lifestyle to Florence.
During the 94th edition of the Pitti Uomo, 15 Scandinavian men’s wear brands will showcase their collections in a dedicated area, called “Scandinavian Manifesto,” located inside the Fortezza da Basso’s Arena Strozzi. The labels will be presented in a customized set, filled with contemporary design items from the Nordic cultural and culinary scene.
“Researching today’s most interesting countries for contemporary fashion is part of Pitti Immagine’s DNA,” said Lapo Cianchi, director of communications and special projects at Pitti Immagine. “The selection curated at Pitti Uomo by Revolver, one of the most interesting trade shows in Europe, consists of both young men’s wear designers and already established brands. Each of them conveys its own individual ideas and together they all express the essence of the Scandinavian design and lifestyle. We are very happy with this partnership established between Pitti Immagine and Revolver, which will further strengthen the appeal of the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo.”
The partnership between the two trade show organizers is expected to last for at least three seasons.
“We are super proud that
 Pitti Uomo has chosen us to create this project

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The Pulse of Men’s Industry Strong at Pitti Uomo

FLORENCE — The energy at the Pitti Uomo show was electric as the industry continued to bask in a solid end to 2017 and was eagerly anticipating further gains this year.
But at the same time, some familiar faces were either late in arriving at the show or dressed in some new duds, since many attendees who started their international journey at New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport arrived in Florence without their luggage. The so-called “bombogenesis” snowstorm on Jan. 4 resulted in thousands of canceled flights and even more lost bags, many of which were still sitting on a runway at the airport this week.
But while they may have had to snip the price tags off their spanking new outfits, Pitti attendees made the best of the situation — and helped the local retail economy at the same time before turning to the business at hand, which was to peruse the typical wide variety of fall merchandise ranging from accessories and footwear to luxury sportswear.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president of fashion director for Saks Fifth Avenue, said she was “very energized” by her first visit to Pitti Uomo. “I feel like this is the nucleus of men’s wear on a

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Street Style Photographers at Pitti Uomo

Name: Scott Schuman
Magazines/web sites you shoot for: The Sartorialist @thesartorialist
What you like about Pitti: It’s a meeting place for some of the best-dressed men, from all around the world. It encompasses a broad range of styles and celebrates everything from streetwear to tailoring at its best.
What you don’t want to see anymore at Pitti: Poorly executed dandyism. To be a dandy can be a beautiful style when done with the right attitude but it’s much trickier than it seems. Because of its loudness, its mistakes attract the eye like a roadside accident.
Favorite street style moment at Pitti: I love shooting the January edition of Pitti Uomo, because the low sun makes perfect light for shooting all day.
 Your favorite street style icons: What draws me to Pitti every year is the new crop of gentleman that inspire me. But I am also very proud that I discovered some of today’s street style stars like Alessandro Squarzi, Domenico Gianfrate, Lino Ieluzzi.
What you expect to trend at Pitti this January in terms of street style: I never look for trends; I’m looking to create images that inspire.

Left: Scott Schuman, Right: A street style look by Scott Schuman. 

 
Name: Lee Oliveira
Magazines/web sites you shoot for:  The New York

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Retailers Seek Best-in-Class Brands at Pitti Uomo

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus
What specifically are you looking for at Pitti?
Literally everything. Absolutely anything can catch my eye if it is well conceived and crafted, unique in presentation, best of class and, therefore, perfect for our very discerning customer. The great thing about Pitti Uomo is that there is such a vast variety of compelling clothing, sportswear, accessories, leather goods, knitwear that it is incredibly inspiring season after season. It’s a show meant for discovery. The fall edition is especially rich, with beautiful, luxe outerwear and sweaters.
Which brands are you most excited to see?
I always love to see the Brunello Cucinelli collection. It’s beautifully presented and merchandised and walk-throughs with the team — always impeccably turned out in the new collection — and Mr. Cucinelli are inspiring and thoughtful. The Classico Italia section is always compelling and filled with Made in Italy product that is beautifully crafted and presented. I also just really enjoy walking each of the exhibition buildings, scouting booths and looking for anything that may be eye-catching to me and, consequently, our customer. I am always inspired by the special guest designer runway shows and presentations produced during Pitti where they make

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Stefano Pilati to Unveil Exhibition at Pitti Uomo in June

MILAN – Stefano Pilati will unveil an exhibition at the 94th edition of international men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo in June.
Titled “Evolution – Involution – Revolution. Three decades of men’s fashion as seen by Stefano Pilati,” the exhibit at Florence’s Palazzo Pitti is to highlight the tight links between fashion and the constantly changing world surrounding it.
The show, which will be inaugurated during Pitti Uomo and remain open to the public until Oct. 21, represents the third chapter of the three-year program promoted by the Florentine Center for Italian fashion, Galleria degli Uffizi and Pitti Immagine. The Italian Ministry of Economic Development and Italian trade agency ICE will also support the project with a financial contribution.
“For this project focused on men’s fashion, a theme which has been neglected for too long on the Italian and international cultural scenes, we chose Stefano Pilati because he is one of its main protagonists,” said Pitti Discovery Foundation general secretary Lapo Cinchi. “But most of all, we got fascinated by his personal vision of the fashion system: eccentric, dissonant, almost cynical. He has a precise point of view, which reflects the obsessions and considerations of a collector, who is also a designer and someone

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Pitti Uomo Gears Up for 93rd Edition

MILAN — On Thursday, Pitti Immagine presented the complete schedule of Florence-based international men’s wear fair Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 9 to 12 at the Fortezza da Basso venue.
The trade show will boost the number of special projects, shows and events for its 93th edition. According to Pitti Immagine, 1,230 companies will present their fall collections at the fair, 541 of which coming from abroad. Among the exhibitors, 227 are the companies returning or attending the trade show for the first time.
The Karl Lagerfeld and Corneliani brands will return to the event to unveil the men’s fall 2018 collections at the Sala dell’Orologio in the Costruzioni Lorenesi venue and in the Sala delle Grotte space, respectively. Corneliani will also showcase its CC Collection Corneliani lineup in the Sala Ottagonale area.
Other returning brands include Italian footwear label Fratelli Rossetti, Paul & Shark and Pepe Jeans London, which will celebrate its 45th anniversary presenting a new denim treatment. Woolrich will also host an installation and unveil a movie retracing its heritage during the trade show.
As reported, Brooks Brothers will fete its 200th anniversary at Pitti Uomo, staging its first fashion show at the Salone dei Cinquecento in the Palazzo Vecchio, along with a retrospective of

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Gucci to Open Gucci Garden during Pitti Uomo

IN BLOOM: Gucci is going to unveil its Gucci Garden in Florence on the opening day of Pitti Uomo, which runs from Jan. 9 to 12.
Conceived by the label’s creative director Alessandro Michele, the Gucci Garden will be housed inside the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia, in the city’s central Piazza della Signoria.
A store, carrying an exclusive, limited-edition product selection, available just in this unit, and a restaurant by Italian Michelin-starred chef Massimo Bottura will be featured in the space, in addition to an exhibition area curated by the critic Maria Luisa Frisa.
The opening of the venue will be celebrated with a private cocktail event on Jan. 9.
The Gucci Garden project further strengthens the relationship between the fashion house and its Florentine roots. This year, Gucci also pledged to donate 2 million euros to restore the Boboli Gardens in the city over three years.
For the occasion, in May the brand staged its cruise 2018 fashion show at the Palatina Gallery at Pitti Palace, which overlooks the Boboli Gardens.

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M1992 to Guest as Special Project at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Italian designer Dorian Stefano Tarantini is changing the name of his brand Malibu 1992 into M1992. The new moniker will make its debut during the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 9 to 12 in Florence.
“It’s not such a radical change,” said Tarantini, addressing his will to “polish, simplify the name and have a more neutral [starting point]” for his creative process.
“Malibu [1992] tied me too much to the city of Malibu and California, which will remain part of my [inspirations], but I preferred to shorten the name also because M is the initial of Malibu but also of Milan, which is my city,” he added. The designer further stressed the importance of having a “code name, which opens to more possibilities” and of “characterizing the brand with my products and collections,” rather than with a name.
Launched almost four years ago as an artistic, 30-minute video project, Malibu 1992 evolved into a fashion brand combining Tarantini’s tornado of inspirations, ranging from music to neoclassicism, from punk to Californian luxury.
After two seasons of runway shows in Milan, the brand will unveil its new name and fashion course in Florence, as it has been selected as a special project

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Undercover, Takahiromiyashita The Soloist Named Guest Designer Brands at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Japan is set to steal the spotlight at Pitti Uomo in January.
Undercover and Takahiromiyashita The Soloist will be the guest designer brands at the international men’s wear trade show, running Jan. 9-12 in Florence.
Longtime friends Jun Takahashi, founder and creative director of Undercover, and designer Takahiro Miyashita will both unveil their fall 2018 men’s collections with back-to-back runway shows on Jan. 11.

Undercover Men’s Spring 2018 
Courtesy

The event will mark the return of Takahashi at Pitti Uomo, where he showed his men’s collection on the catwalk in 2009, while Miyashita will host his first Takahiromiyashita The Soloist show outside Japan.
As reported, a day earlier, on Jan. 10, Brooks Brothers will stage its first runway show in the sumptuous Salone dei Cinquecento inside Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio, which will also house a brand retrospective open to the public from Jan. 11 to 14.

Takahiromiyashita The Soloist Men’s Spring 2018 
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Pitti Uomo’s collaboration with both established and upcoming international labels is part of the trade show’s strategy aimed at imposing itself as the leading player in the men’s wear industry. Last June, the trade show teamed up with Virgil Abloh, founder and creative director of Off-White, and J. W. Anderson, with both showing their

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Brooks Brothers to Kick Off 200th Anniversary at Pitti Uomo

Brooks Brothers will kick off the celebration of its 200th anniversary in the home country of its owner, Italy.
The venerable retailer will be partnering with the Pitti Uomo show in Florence, where it will stage its first-ever runway show on Jan. 10.
The show will be at the Salone dei Cinquecento in the historical Palazzo Vecchio, which will also be the site of a comprehensive retrospective from Brooks Brothers’ archives. The special exhibition will then be open to the public from Jan. 11 to 14.
“Our anniversary marks a significant and historic milestone not only for Brooks Brothers but also for the fashion industry,” said Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and chief executive officer of Brooks Brothers. “This is a moment to celebrate 200 years steeped in both tradition and innovation.”
He added that Pitti Uomo “is the global platform for the men’s wear industry and Brooks Brothers proudly accepted the invitation to celebrate our bicentennial this year.”
Raffaello Napoleone, ceo of Pitti Immagine, parent of Pitti Uomo, said the show was honored that Brooks Brothers chose Pitti Uomo as the kick-off of its yearlong celebration.
“Brooks Brothers will be the special event at this coming edition of the fair: an occasion marking the 200 years

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Pitti Uomo Selects Finland as Guest Nation for January Edition

MILAN — Finland will be the guest nation of Pitti Uomo’s upcoming edition, running Jan. 9 to 12 in Florence.
Eight Finnish brands and designers have been selected to present their collections in the special area of the Spazio Carra, part of the Fortezza da Basso location, and through an event held in the city during the men’s wear trade show.
The talents selected include Rolf Ekroth, an Aalto University graduate and finalist of the Hyères Fashion Festival last year; Julia Männistö, founder of the Mannisto label and finalist of the LVMH Prize in 2016; designer Teemu Muurimäki, presenting his men’s wear line Formal Friday; Niina and Timo Leskelä, of the minimalistic Nomen Nescio label, and Janne Lax, founder of the classic shoe brand Saint Vacant.
Finnish designer Heikki Salonen, who formerly worked at Erdem and Diesel, will also launch his new men’s wear brand Vyner Articles at Pitti Uomo.

Nomen Nescio. 
Courtesy Photo

In addition, Finnish heritage labels Turo and R-Collection — a suit brand and leisurewear line, respectively — will showcase collaborations with young designers. The former will team with London-based designer Ikla Wright, while the latter will present a capsule collection in partnership with Maria Korkeila.

Maria Korkeila x R-Collection. 
Courtesy Photo

The guest nation program is

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Trending at Pitti Uomo

Safari Adventure: Lardini
Updated Trenchcoat: Pringle of Scotland
Ultralight Parka: Helter Shelter
Summer Stripes: Block & Last
Shirting Fabrics: Corelate
Eighties’ Bathing Suits: Timo Trunks
Colored Lenses: Super Retrosuperfuture
Embellished Denim: Kings of Indigo
Pastel Sneakers: Bibliotek
Camp Shirt: Gitman Bros.
Hippie Necklaces: Made Solid

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Christian Louboutin, Federico Curradi and Alanui to Host Events During Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Christian Louboutin, Federico Curradi and Alanui will be among the guests at the upcoming edition of international men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo, running in Florence from June 13 to 19. The brands are the latest addition to this edition’s exclusive program, which includes the already announced events organized by J.W. Anderson and Off-White to present the labels’ men’s collections on June 14 and 15, respectively. While the location of the Off-White event is still undisclosed, J.W. Anderson will host a runway show at Villa La Pietra, which houses a New York University campus.
During the seasonal press conference showcasing the fair’s program on Friday, Pitti Immagine chief executive officer Raffaello Napoleone said Christian Louboutin will organize a special sports-focused event on June 13. During the day, the brand will organize an outdoor tournament in a location in the heart of Florence. Details on the event were not available.
Hugo Boss will also be among the fair’s guests. In particular, the German brand will host a fashion show on June 13 at the Manifattura Tabacchi venue to present its Hugo spring 2018 collection.
One of the most promising men’s designers on the Italian scene, Curradi will present his latest spring collection

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Off-White To Make Pitti Uomo Debut

Off-White, the streetwear label founded by Virgil Abloh, will be a special guest at international men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo, running in Florence June 13-16.
On June 15, the label will present its latest spring 2018 men’s collection, as well as a selection of pieces from the resort 2018 women’s lineup.
The event will take place the day after the debut at Pitti Uomo of Irish designer J. W. Anderson, who will show his namesake line’s spring 2018 men’s wear collection on June 14 in a still-undisclosed location.
“I’m really honored to present my work for the first time at Pitti Uomo, one of the most relevant platforms which marked the history of fashion over the years,” said Abloh. “My goal is to add a unique chapter to the evolution of this brand.”
“In a moment where the traditional boundaries between fashion and streetwear blur, Virgil Abloh turned his lifestyle into a successful brand,” said Pitti Immagine communication and event director Lapo Cianchi. “He managed to bring Off-White to a stylistic maturation without losing that ability to shock, sometimes in a very direct and frisky way, which enabled him to build a name for himself.”
 

Off-White Men’s Fall 2017 
Dominique Maitre/WWD

 
Launched online in late 2013, Off-White

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The Pitti Uomo 91 Diaries: Stefano Ricci, Concept Korea, and Photos from the Fashion Front Lines

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As soon as I met British war photographer Guy Martin, my view of fashion here at Pitti Uomo changed. There is something incredibly powerful, a spark alive in those who report from the front lines, and combined with the natural kindness photographers possess, Martin immediately dissolved all my natural defenses. Not to mention that when I started to see the menswear fashion arena through his eyes, I realized that it too is a war zone of sorts, a battle for who can make the world more stylish, and conquer the most fashionista hearts. More on Martin a bit later, but first things first. Starting from the kickoff show of the day for me, the Concept Korea event.

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Concept Korea: Bmuet(te) and Ordinary People, and kimchi wings.

As soon as the Bmuet(te) men, and women, started to walk down the worn-out cobblestones runway of the Dogana in Florence, I felt like Neo had found his Darcy-like counterpart, in a next installment of the Matrix set in Victorian England. I loved the black to grey to white color palette, and once my eyes stopped concentrating on the endless cool details — like Elizabethan-style collars, strings hanging from shirts like those worn by Orthodox Jews and those gorgeous flat lens sunglasses — I realized the full cinematic impact of the collection. To say that I loved the womenswear influences used for menswear here would be an understatement. Extra-long sleeves, Victorian rounded shoulders and even skirts for men were all phenomenal, especially because each look could be — and at times was — worn by women too. I think Bryung-mun Seo and Ji-na Um are my new fashion idols.

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Ordinary People by Hyeong-cheol Jang also required a period of adjustment on my part, once his more colorful-dressed models started sliding down the runway. After viewing so much black and white, the studded black palazzo pants in velvet and poet shirt in what Benjamin Moore calls “Corlsbud Canyon” orange needed a deep breath from yours truly. But heeding the advice of the beautiful Andie MacDowell, who made us all breathe during a recent interview in Dubai, I found myself inhaling and exhaling deeply, only to discover that Ordinary People had some of the same themes I’d loved so much in the previous brand. Black velvet suits with cropped tight trousers, pearl studded sweaters and even a bright varnish green leather jacket could all be unisex. And although I’ll skip the Ed Snowden look sported by some of the male models, I may just become a new Ordinary People customer too. Plus, you gotta love the name, of my favorite film growing up, directed by Robert Redford!

Class act alert: The Concept Korea presentation ended with a wonderful snack of kimchi wings and Korean sushi, to be washed down with a special cocktail, framed by a slice of pineapple.

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Guy Martin and the impossibility of living down one’s incredible act of resilience.

When I interviewed photojournalist Guy Martin, I tried to avoid bringing up the 2011 deadly attack which resulted in Tim Hetherington’s and Chris Hondros’ death, and left Martin seriously injured and in the care of Libyan doctors. But although when meeting Martin today one could never imagine what the young photographer has been through, there is a depth to his persona, a wonderfully refreshing calm about him that points to the kind of person who has survived a great deal. It’s impossible, I think, to separate the man from the photojournalist, and that photojournalist, who went through so much and still manages to entertain a conversation with a man at a party who wants to talk selling Swedish underwear to Saudi customers. Yes, I witnessed Martin kindly engage as one business owner tried to pick his brain — as a photographer who has worked extensively in the Middle East — for enticing customers from Saudi Arabia to his brand.

But meeting Martin also made me look at fashion differently, particularly the shows. We stand in lines outside in the cold for up to an hour, awaiting to be let into this magical world where in five minutes we watch a presentation and then it’s all gone. Armies of fashionistas pose with serious, at times threatening faces while photographers capture their looks, and models reach the “front lines” of photographers at the end of the catwalk eager to shoot the perfect shot of them. Shoot, front lines, armies of fashionistas, the lingo doesn’t stray far from war terms you see.

But much more on Martin and his project with Pitti Immagine, through a collaboration with nineteensixtyeight, in a full interview to follow next week.

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Stefano Ricci: A timeless designer presents his perfectly classic line inside an iconic fashion room.

Perhaps it was the gods of fashion that allowed me to view Stefano Ricci‘s presentation for a select few lucky members of the press, inside the iconic Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti. Or maybe it was a great combination of professional publicists who managed to squeeze me in and find me a seat in the front row of this spectacle of beauty, style and ageless class. Whatever the cause, I felt like I experienced fashion history in the making. The Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti is where the Made in Italy brand started, back in 1952. And the setting hasn’t be utilized for fashion shows since 1982. So it was only natural that a legendary menswear brand from Florence should re-christen the venue so important for Italian fashion, on their own 45th Anniversary celebration.

Adding to the magic of the day, I went to watch the Stefano Ricci runway show with Guy Martin and knowing he was in the photographers’ pit made me look at the event through different eyes. In fact, I took this shot of one of the little boys who showed along with the adults, and saw him in all his vulnerability as he walked away from the clicks of the cameras. A bit shaken for the wear yet still incredibly professional for his age.

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The collection was of course phenomenal. Full of what men really want to wear, to the office, on an evening out, to a gala, and even on their days off — Stefano Ricci represents iconic Italian style. And the fact that real men, some with grey hair and all possessing their own individual style and gait, showed the clothes only made the experience more wonderful. Oh, and someone said the room was decorated with 30,000 white roses, lining walls and nestled in giant vases. Thirty thousand, wrap your head around that!

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PS by Paul Smith, because a man needs to be able to wear a suit while riding a bike!

The PS by Paul Smith presentation saw us all walking through a pink neon lit doorway crowned by the designer’s famous initial. Quintessential Paul Smith of course. But once inside, what awaited the fashion crowds were street wearable clothing pieces, like light reflecting windbreakers and suits that could be worn by everyday working guys, who ride their bikes to the office and don’t want to worry about looking like the male equivalent of Bridget Jones at her worst upon arrival.

Smith is smart, as he is kind, and he knows his customer whom I believe likes to look good, but also be practical. Details have always been the best the designer has to offer, from his quintessentially colorful suit linings to the way his hems are stitched and this collection of active wear, for lack of a better term, is no exception. Plus, the dancers, acrobats and all around cool guys showing off the line made me yearn to go dancing.

Innocence and fragility by Chabaud, a classic scent.

Between shows, I felt like I needed a moment of zen. And I always find the best relaxation in scents. So I visited the Hi Beauty section of the Pitti Uomo fair, inside the Fortezza da Basso and headed for a stand I’d briefly stopped by the day before. Sophie Chabaud is the “nose” of Chabaud, a Maison de parfum from Montpellier and she kindly showed me around the line. I found respite in their “Innocente Fragilité”, a white flower scent made of a blend of jasmine, orange blossom and gardenia. OK, time to get back to work now.

Most images courtesy of Pitti Immagine, used with permission.

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Tommy Gets Techie for Pitti Uomo Presentation

The traditional runway show is so last century.
So instead of trotting a bevy of male models down a catwalk, Tommy Hilfiger is preparing to unleash a multimedia extravaganza at Pitti Uomo to showcase his fall collection.
Hilfiger’s installation at the Florence trade fair from today through Friday takes the place of his traditional dinner in London, where he’s shown for the past few seasons and continues the designer’s move to reinvent the show format.
Last September, he unveiled his Tommy x Gigi Collection by creating a Tommy Pier at the South Street Seaport in New York City to showcase the see-now-buy-now line of women’s wear. And he has already revealed that his fall women’s show will jump to Los Angeles from New York next month.
Hilfiger’s presentation at Pitti marks the first time the brand will be shown at the Florentine trade show. “It’s the right time,” the designer said.
His participation will serve to showcase three levels of the company’s business: sportswear, tailored clothing and Hilfiger Edition, a modern take on men’s wear classics executed in premium fabrics and with luxe details.
On Tuesday the company will host a two-hour presentation at Palazzo Corsini where 20 looks from the Hilfiger Edition collection will be

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Hilfiger to Show Men’s Portfolio at Pitti Immagine Uomo

Tommy Hilfiger is taking all of his collections on the road come the New Year.
While Hilfiger’s women’s collections will be shown in Los Angeles in February, the men’s wear collections are headed to Florence, Italy, for the first time.
Hilfiger, which is owned by PVH Corp., will show his fall 2017 global menswear brands at the 91st edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, Italy from Jan. 10 to 13.
Hilfiger will showcase a curated selection of the Hilfiger Edition, Tommy Hilfiger Tailored and Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collections together in one space for the first time. It will take place in the Fortezza Da Basso, with digital displays that represent the youthful spirit of the brand.
Guests will be invited to browse the fall 2017 menswear designs through various digital mediums, including touchscreen retail shopping walls and visual merchandising fixtures, as well as the brand’s signature Digital Showroom. The Digital Showroom offers a highly customized buying approach that significantly reduces global sample investments.
“This is an exciting moment – presenting my men’s collections at Pitti Immagine Uomo for the first time,” said Hilfiger. “Pitti creates the unique opportunity to experience modern fashion within Florence’s historical setting, and we are very inspired by the idea

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Pitti Uomo to Open in Uncertain Economic Scenario

During the seasonal press conference held on Thursday by trade show organizer Pitti Immagine to present the schedule of Florence-based international men’s wear fair Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 10-13, Italian fashion and textile consortium SMI Sistema Moda Italia released its research on the status of the country’s textile and fashion compartment.
According to the study, after a positive first quarter that saw revenues gain 2.2 percent, compared with the same period last year, the second quarter slowed down, posting a 2 percent decrease. This referred to the textile, ready-to-wear and accessories markets. SMI provided a scenario, but not detailed figures.
According to data elaborated on the base of companies’ forecasts, the negative trend would continue in the third quarter of the year, with revenues expected to be down 2.4 percent.
Data provided by the Italian National Institute of Statistics pointed that, in the first eight months of the year, the exports of textile and fashion products were up 0.5 percent to 17.5 billion euros, or $ 18.6 billion at current exchange rate, compared to the same period last year. While the total exports toward European countries, mostly Germany and France, rose 2.2 percent, those directed to the extra-European markets were down 1.6 percent. In

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Z Zegna to Present Fall/Winter 2017 Collection at Pitti Uomo

While Milan will be the stage for Alessandro Sartori’s official debut as artistic director of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, his Z Zegna collection will be unveiled in Florence with an installation during Pitti Uomo, Jan. 10 to 12. This will mark a return to Pitti Uomo for the Italian men’s wear powerhouse after a three year absence. It is also a return for Sartori, who was at the creative helm of Z Zegna for eight years until 2011. Z Zegna was launched in 2003.
Chief executive officer Gildo Zegna said participating at Pitti Uomo was part of the group’s growth strategies. “Alessandro Sartori embraced the opportunity to present our new vision with great enthusiasm,” said Zegna. “He developed a very innovative, forward looking collection that perfectly matches this season’s theme of ‘Fashion meets Activewear.’ At Pitti, one of the most prestigious global events for textile innovation and style, our [natural high- performance fabric] Techmerino project finds its perfect home.”
 

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Solidea 0301A5 Men’s Uomo Contour Advanced Micro Massage Short-XL-Blk

Solidea 0301A5 Men’s Uomo Contour Advanced Micro Massage Short-XL-Blk


The Solidea 0301A5 Men’s Uomo Compression Contour Bike Short (12/15 mmHg) has patented 3D wave knit fabric that stimulates superficial lymphatic capillaries with gentle micro massage as the body moves. Combined with graduated compression, circulation and fluid movement are maximized. Easy to don and discreet under clothing, these semi-sheer pants have the appearance of athletic wear. They feature non-constricting waistbands and flat seams and are most effective without undergarments. For more extensive compression, combine with thigh-highs, ankle or knee socks as desired. The breathable fabric is embedded with silver ions to reduce bacteria and the risk of infection as well as disperse heat. Latex Free. THIS ITEM IS NOT RETURNABLE if the seal is broken or tags are removed.

Price: $
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The Bridge Story Uomo Man Wallet Leather Black 12 cm

The Bridge Story Uomo Man Wallet Leather Black 12 cm


Story Uomo purses and bags are made from high quality leather. Allow yourself to be won over by our high quality leather products. Dimensions: . 12x10x1cm (WxHxD) Material: Italian leather Features: – Your comfortable daily companion with practical partitions – Sections for banknotes and receipts, coin pocket, credit card pockets – Embossed logo on the front – Credit card pockets: 8 – Coin pockets: 1 – Bank note pockets: 2 – Identity card pockets: 1 The Bridge The Bridge originated as a small workshop in a suburb of Florence in 1969. Since then The Bridge has developed into a high-end bag manufacturer but with the same high level of skilled craftsmanship. The perfect balance between technical innovation, craftsmanship and the search for new high quality materials has led to the worldwide success of The Bridge brand. Thanks to the constant improvement of their range, The Bridge now offers a wide selection of briefcases, handbags, suitcases, purses and much more. The unique quality of the worked leather is thanks to the longstanding collaboration between The Bridge and ‘Il Gabbiano’ tannery. The effort over the years which has been put into the careful choice of natural tannins, the hand working and the amber rolls used to provide the satin finish has enabled The Bridge to build up a prestigious worldwide brand. It’s thanks to the individual steps of the manufacturing process that The Bridge’s exclusive leather achieves its intensity, distinctive colours and beautiful shine. The briefcases, handbags, suitcases and purses from The Bridge are soft yet sturdy and have the enviable feature of becoming yet more beautiful over time. Buy the handmade briefcases, handbags, suitcases, purses and accessories from traditional Italian company The Bridge at Styleshop 24.

Price: $
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The Bridge Story Uomo Brown Leather Wallet

The Bridge Story Uomo Brown Leather Wallet


The Bridge Story Uomo Man’s Wallet is made from high-quality leather. Main Description Dimensions: 11.5 cm x 9.5 cm x 2 cm (WxHxD) Outer Material: Leather Inner Material: Leather and fabric lining Format: Landscape 6 credit card pockets, one with clear window 3 identity card pockets a large coin pocket two bank note pockets The Bridge The Bridge originated as a small workshop in Florence in the 1960s and has since developed into a high-end bag manufacturer. At The Bridge craftsmanship and technology are combined in perfect balance. The search for new materials, the intelligent use of classical production methods, technical innovation and artisan wisdom, and the constant improvement of their range of briefcases, laptop bags, handbags and purses have all contributed to the success and worldwide fame of The Bridge brand. The unique quality of the worked leather is thanks to the longstanding collaboration between The Bridge and ‘Il Gabbiano’ tannery. The outstanding leather from The Bridge is treated with artisanal mastery. This ranges from the careful choice of natural tannins and the hand working to the amber rolls used to provide the satin finish, all of which have enabled The Bridge to build up a prestigious worldwide brand. It’s thanks to the intensity and shine that The Bridge leather gets its distinctive colours. Soft and yet robust, the briefcases, handbags, suitcases and purses are beautiful from any angle. In addition the products have the enviable feature of becoming yet more beautiful over time. That’s because of the leather used by The Bridge for its bags, suitcases and purses. Exclusive and distinctive, this leather comes from the traditions of ‘Il Gabbiano’ tannery used for the coveted The Bridge bags.

Price: $
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