Men’s Trend Spring 2020: Man as Muse

A new model of masculinity was on display at the men’s runway shows for spring as designers tapped into today’s tectonic cultural shifts to offer softer, more fluid and gender-bending styles, including pearls and handbags for men. It all generated an artistic vibe, as seen here in a Comme des Garçons coat with pleated sleeves and shorts suit.

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Men’s Wearhouse Names Three New Execs to Management Team

Carrie Ask has assembled her team. The president of the Men’s Wearhouse and Moores divisions of Tailored Brands Inc. today will announce three hires that are intended to drive the stores more profitably into the future. The two divisions have sales of around $ 2 billion and operate nearly 900 stores in the U.S. and Canada. New to the team are Mary Ann McGrath, who has been named senior vice president and chief marketing officer; Jerry Brandehoff, senior vice president and general merchandise manager, and Sharmila Sudhakar, vice president, e-commerce. Ask said this group of “proven and talented” professionals “have successfully transformed each of their respective business domains to drive significant profitable growth for leading companies. We look forward to benefiting from their experience and leadership as we transform our business to deliver an unparalleled customer experience through personalized products and services, inspiring and seamless experiences in and across every channel, and brands that stand for something more than just price.” McGrath has more than 25 years of retail experience and served most recently as senior vice president of customer relationship marketing for Williams Sonoma, Williams Sonoma Home and West Elm. She has also worked at Gymboree, Escada and Saks Fifth Avenue. Frank Hamlin had

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Men’s Stores Are Changing the Rules of Retailing

NEW YORK — The rules of the game have changed and independent men’s specialty stores that have adapted to the new normal are on a winning streak. Whether it’s a de-emphasis of traditional tailored clothing — long the bread and butter of independent retailers — or a dramatic shift in their vendor mix, the survivors have learned to navigate the current climate. Many larger brands are opening their own stores — either brick-and-mortar or virtual — leaving independents hard-pressed to compete. And customers searching the Internet to compare prices on commonly found labels has also prompted stores to look elsewhere. “We’re finally at a tipping point,” said Ken Giddon, president of Rothman’s. “The relationship between retailers and vendors has to be reworked. Retailers are waking up to the fact that things have to change. They can’t keep their heads in the sand anymore on pricing.” He wasn’t alone. Mike Zack, owner of Circa 2000 in Plano, Tex., has been banging the same drum for a while now. “It’s a whole new world today,” he said. “We’re completely changing our vendor structure and have gotten rid of most of the big brands like Peter Millar and Tommy Bahama. I’m taking my ball to a new

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Nike Clothing, Bags, Shoes & Equipment 25% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 7/28-8/10. Shop Now!

Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Nike Clothing, Bags, Shoes & Equipment 25% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 7/28-8/10. Shop Now!
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Rolling Stones Get Gig at Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store

You can’t always get what you want, but can get what you need — and them some — at the Rolling Stones retail experience at Bergdorf Goodman.
While the Rolling Stones might not seem like an obvious brand partner for Bergdorf’s, the British band’s red and black tongue and lips logo looms large on the facade of the men’s store, where the concept, featuring limited-edition collections for the band’s fans, will operate through Aug. 13. The pop-up retail experience will then travel with the Rolling Stones’ “No Filter” tour to Pasadena and Miami, where there will be follow-up installations at Maxfield in Los Angeles and Alchemist in Miami.
Bravado, Universal Music Group’s merchandise and brand management company, partnered with Bergdorf’s to create the concept. The pop-up has a strong fashion pedigree. Bergdorf’s tapped Sarah Andelman, cofounder of Colette, the now-defunct Parisian retailer, who culled resources through her consulting and curating company, Just an Idea. Andelman assembled a collection of disparate brands, united by their affinity for the Rolling Stones.
Visitors to the third floor of the men’s store will see two larger-than-life 8-foot-tall, 600-pound tongues that celebrate the Rolling Stones’ return to the U.S. after the European and U.K. No Filter tour closed

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Nike Clothing, Bags, Shoes & Equipment 25% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 7/28-8/10. Shop Now!

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Nike Clothing, Bags, Shoes & Equipment 25% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 7/28-8/10. Shop Now!

Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Nike Clothing, Bags, Shoes & Equipment 25% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 7/28-8/10. Shop Now!
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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2020

Sex, love, glamour and immigration.
All these hot topics, mixed with masculine queer culture, set the tone for Willy Chavarria’s runway return to New York — and boy, was he missed.
Known for his Chicano heritage vibes, Chavarria’s former stint in the Nineties, the creation of “The Love Garage,” a club in San Fransisco that embraced rave culture and gritty house music, served as one of the key components of his take on what minimalism can mean.
In this case, the usually big, oversize silhouette that has defined Chavarria took a sophisticated turn that still managed to maintain a tough edge.

The first portion of the show showcased standouts such as a black washed satin robe with matching shorts, along with an array of flared and high-waisted denim numbers, often paired with souvenir jackets or matching oversize boxy shirts. Quilted leather handbags, an item typically associated with high luxury, adorned most of the models, along with black and gold chains used as necklaces, belts and handbags, which provided a refined touch.
Part two featured a collaboration with athletic brand K-Swiss: a Nineties California Chicano tennis prep collection — oversize pastels in blue and pink with a bit of neon that enhanced sweatshirts, baggy shorts and

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Simon G. Jewelry Sees Growth Potential in Men’s

Simon G. Jewelry began dabbling in the men’s business about five years ago. Now it’s ready to go full force with the launch of its first men’s collection this fall.
The Glendale, Calif.-based company, which got its start in bridal, first began exploring what it could offer men beyond wedding bands by testing larger bands, and saw strong interest.
“What we came to find several years ago is that a lot of the men who were purchasing jewelry for their soon-to-be wife and even some of the same-sex couples purchasing from us, were interested in bands as opposed to just engagement rings,” said vice president of marketing and communications Brooke Brinkman, who is overseeing the men’s division. “Our men’s band business took off. As we study SEO, we’re seeing there’s a great deal of search for men’s jewelry.”
The company, when looking at January through June of this year, saw unique sessions to the landing page for men’s rings jump 1,355.27 percent from the same period last year. Sessions for men’s bracelets were up 77.27 percent for the same six-month time frame this year compared with last year.
Simon G. has built a business around 18-karat and fine platinum, giving the company’s executive team

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Men’s Denim Brand Monfrère Expands to U.K.

Los Angeles-based men’s brand Monfrère aims to make its upscale denim the go-to wardrobe piece for day and night, and it’s quickly expanding.
The three-year-old business is now in Selfridges, marking its expansion to the U.K., and has a contract with a Korean distributor, which the company expects will help its presence in the Asian market grow over the next six to 12 months.
Monfrère is sold in 55 doors, including Barneys New York and Bergdorf Goodman, and was cofounded by Sean Rudes — whose father Jeffrey Rudes started J Brand with Susie Crippen — along with Steven Dann. The founder of his namesake men’s shop in New York, Dann is also Sean Rudes’ brother-in-law.
“Sean and I were really discussing denim fits and what we were looking to purchase and wear and both of us had the same requirements,” Dann said of the company’s start.
The two wanted comfortable denim that fit well and could be worn with a T-shirt and sneakers and just as easily transition to a look with a sports jacket. The two scoured the market looking for a brand that fit their requirements, but didn’t turn up anything in line with the description. That was when they said they

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EXCLUSIVE: Aitor Throup Announces Upcoming New Men’s Label

Aitor Throup is gearing up to debut a men’s wear label, WWD has learned.
The Buenos Aires-born and Burnley, England-raised designer, known for his highly conceptualized fashion, said this project marks “the biggest thing I’ve ever worked on, I’m nearing the completion of my vision, which has been 15 years in the making, and I’m near the end of it.”
The new men’s brand, the name of which is being kept under wraps, will make its debut later this year before fully seeing the light in 2020.
Throup, who had served as G-Star’s executive creative director overseeing the men’s and women’s mainline ranges and the Raw Research men’s line since 2016, last year parted ways amicably with the Amsterdam-based label co-owned by Pharrell Williams.
Prior to his appointment at G-Star, Throup had launched his conceptual men’s label New Object Research, which debuted on the London Fashion Week: Men’s calendar in 2013. In 2016 the designer hosted a performance-presentation hybrid in a deconsecrated church in Marylebone.
The men’s label blending fashion, design and the arts paved the way for the development of the new project debuting this year. “New Object Research was a part of this process, this exploration that has allowed me to develop a

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Saks Re-creates Men’s Footwear Department at Flagship

Saks Fifth Avenue’s $ 250 million-plus grand renovation project is finally turning its attention to men’s.
Later this week, the store will take the wraps off a new men’s footwear department that it boasts will be one of the largest luxury shoe destinations in the country.
The 8,000-square-foot space unites shoes in one central location on the sixth floor in an area that has 60 percent more selling space. It will offer 2,000 stock-keeping units  from 60 brands — 15 of which are new to the store — and 160 exclusives, as well as other amenities such as shoe repair stations, extended sizes and personalization stations.
“We know how to build a category-dominant business,” said Marc Metrick, president of Saks. Metrick had been head of planning for Saks and chief merchant Tracy Margolies was vice president of women’s footwear more than a decade ago when they worked together to create Saks’ successful 10022-Shoe women’s floor.
“Twelve years ago, we built an amazing destination,” Margolies said of the women’s floor, one that offers up a “fun and social experience. There’s no reason not to re-create the same thing for men.”
She said when the management team sat down and talked about redeveloping the New York store, they

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Britain’s John Lewis Revamps Offer, Puts Urban Spin on Men’s Wear

LONDON — British department store John Lewis & Partners, where customers can find everything from lamps and frying pans to flat-screen TVs and computers, is putting a fresh spin on men’s wear in a bid to speak to multiple generations, street and sneaker devotees and necktie-free urbanites.
The retail stalwart, which also owns the upmarket supermarket chain Waitrose, has held relatively steady in the crisis that is sweeping the British high street. The store continues to invest in its store real estate, own-brand merchandise, staff training and has been swinging the spotlight onto own brand and exclusive products that customers cannot buy anywhere else.
It’s a tough time for British brick-and-mortar clothing retailers in particular. They’re falling victim to online competition, fast-fashion and streetwear competitors, as well as luxury brands keen to woo younger shoppers with entry-price merchandise such as sneakers and T-shirts.
Marks & Spencer is a prime example of the struggle so many are facing: On Thursday the retailer said in a terse statement that its managing director of clothing and home, Jill McDonald, was leaving the business after two years.
M&S clothing has been struggling for some time, a victim of long-standing supply chain and sizing issues and of a younger

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Rag & Bone’s Mashed-up Men’s Spring Collection

Marcus Wainwright is feeling twisted these days.
For the spring men’s collection, Wainwright, the founder and chief brand officer of Rag & Bone, “mashed things up” by taking the brand’s key pieces and updating them to appeal to a street and sports fan.
Wainwright said the collection just returned to New York after being shown to buyers in Europe, where it received a strong reception from retailers.
“Our men’s business is really strong,” he said. “Men’s in general is having a prolonged moment and ours is very stable and growing nicely.”
But what customers were clamoring for, he said, was “more fashion.” Not over-the-top trendy items, but pieces that “push the line and the tenets of the brand,” he said.
So for spring Wainwright answered the call by designing “a more twisted Rag & Bone,” he said during a walkthrough of the line at the company’s Meatpacking District showroom in Manhattan. “Every season we go back to workwear, British tailoring and military references but we’re also bringing in sports elements.”
Case in point: part of the spring offering was “very loosely inspired by tennis from the 1920s onward,” Wainwright said, pointing to a collection of sweaters with V-neck ribbing and other details specific to the sport.
Other

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Derrill Osborn, Former Men’s Fashion Director for Neiman’s, Dies in Dallas

Derrill Radcliff Osborn, the flamboyant former men’s fashion director for Neiman Marcus, died in his Dallas home Monday night. He was 76.
The cause is not known at this time, but his death was confirmed by Nelson Bell, a pastor at the Highland Park Presbyterian Church. Bell said Osborn, who had been ill for some time, had planned his own service and a date for the memorial will be set shortly.
Osborn was descended from pioneers and ranchers who settled in New Mexico. After serving in the U.S. Army, he started his retail career working at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1964. In the decade he was employed there, he worked his way up from a salesman to a buyer. Osborn also served briefly as general manager of the Lew Ritter men’s specialty store in Beverly Hills before joining Neiman Marcus, where he worked as a buyer for six years before being named vice president of men’s tailored clothing. He retired from Neiman’s in 2002.
Osborn, who was known for his flashy personal style — flowing capes, bowler hats, carnations in his lapel and his ubiquitous beard and mustache — had an unerring eye for fashion that helped put Neiman’s men’s store on the

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Derrill Osborn, Neiman’s Former Men’s Fashion Director, Dies

Derrill Radcliff Osborn, the legendary men’s fashion director for Neiman Marcus, has died in Dallas, according to multiple posts on Facebook late Monday night.
No further details are known at this time, but his death was confirmed by Nelson Bell, a pastor at the Highland Park Presbyterian Church in Dallas. He said Osborn, who had been ill for some time, had planned his own service and a date will be set shortly.
Osborn descended from pioneers and ranchers who settled in Mexico. After serving in the U.S. Army, Osborn started his retail career working at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1964. In the decade he was employed there, he worked his way up from a salesman to a buyer. Osborn briefly ran a men’s clothing and antiques boutique in Beverly Hills before joining Neiman Marcus, where he worked as a buyer for six years before being named vice president of men’s tailored clothing. He retired in 2002.
Osborn, who was known for his flamboyant personal style and ubiquitous mustache, is credited with helping to introduce luxury Italian lines to the store including Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni and Kiton.
Barry Wishnow of Bash by Barry Wishnow in Nashville wrote: “Losing friends is a tough thing. I lost

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Launchmetrics’ Numbers Support Strength of Paris, Italian Men’s Fashion Weeks

It’s no surprise that Paris Men’s Fashion Week has been gaining in importance as New York and London continue to struggle. Marquee shows such as Louis Vuitton and Dior with their buzzy creative directors are overshadowing brands showing in other cities.
And while the Milan calendar is also experiencing some strain, the big Italian brands are still managing to hold their own against their Parisian counterparts.
Looking back at the spring 2019 season, Launchmetrics’ recently released State of Menswear report found that, thanks in large part to the debut of Virgil Abloh as creative director, Louis Vuitton was by far the most popular show of the season with 18.2 million media placements. That number outpaces Dior, the next most popular show, with 9.7 million MIVs, or media impact values, Launchmetrics’ proprietary measurement of media placement in all channels: social, print and online.
Third on the list is Versace, with 5 million MIVs, followed by Prada with 3.2 million, Valentino with 3.1 million, Giorgio Armani with 2.7 million, Off-White with 2.5 million, Yohji Yamamoto with 2.194 million, Boris Bidjan Saberi with 2.190 million and Balmain with 2 million.
Noticeably absent from this list, which includes coed shows, are any designer brands showing in either London

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SportChek – 25% Off Select Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Roxy and Quiksilver Sandals at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 7/3/19. Shop Now!

25% Off Select Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Roxy and Quiksilver Sandals at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 7/3/19. Shop Now!
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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Hang Loose

Men’s wear designers amped up the volume for spring — from looser cuts on suits and trousers to flowing ponchos and baggy knitwear. Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons captured the style with her stellar collection, which played on the theme of Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando,” and also hit the genderless trend.

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Graphic Art

Bold prints and patterns were all over the men’s runways for spring, with many designers collaborating with artists on the looks. Turning the process on its head, and creating a new paradigm, was artist Sterling Ruby, who has added “designer” to his résumé with his brand S.R. Studio. LA. CA., coming up with one of the standout collections of the season.

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Retailers Embrace Feminine Side of Men’s Shows in Paris

PARIS — Retailers embraced the wave of femininity that swept through the men’s shows in Paris. Fluid suits, silky shirts, a profusion of pastels — think pink! — floral prints and individual expression were the names of the game this season.
“The most important new direction we are looking for in Paris is the genderless look,” said Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner, pushed the idea a bit further:
“The classic, traditional men’s look for us is completely gone. Easy, fresh and bold are the keywords,” he said.
Dior topped the favorite collections, with Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten as runners-up. The next tier was crowded: Jil Sander, Loewe, Celine, Valentino and Off-White, reflecting diversity in opinions.
In the hot-new-talent department, Casablanca and Nanushka caught notice. And the best venue went to Louis Vuitton — the Paris streets never fail to charm. Lanvin’s poolside runway and Dior’s futuristic set were also popular.
While snarled traffic and hot sticky weather did not go unnoticed, the fashion, it seems, will be remembered the most.
Here, a roundup of the Paris spring collections in the eyes of the retailers.

Casablanca Men’s Spring Summer 2020 
Courtesy Photo

Fiona Firth, buying director, Mr Porter 
Top trends:

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Pigalle Paris Men’s Spring 2020

It didn’t start very well: Guests arriving at the Pigalle Paris spring show were informed that there was only one elevator — able to transport seven people at the time — to go up to the seventh floor of the parking lot where the presentation was held. Mayhem ensued, with bouncers striving to enforce health and safety measures, and the presentation finally started 45 minutes behind schedule — not ideal on the last day of fashion week.
But what a view: a panoramic view of Paris taking in the colorful tubes of the Centre Pompidou, the Grand Palais and the Eiffel Tower, with the Sacré Coeur looming behind the show space. As has become its trademark, Pigalle Paris set out to celebrate the city of its birth, parading the clothes in front of a triptych of panels depicting a futuristic version of the City of Light, its grey slate roofs turned lilac. Guests could play “spot the difference” by comparing the artwork to the actual view behind it.
Models in the first part of the presentation, wearing mirrored helmets, were decked out in pristine silk tracksuits and flowing Champagne-colored suits. It was street couture at its very best: A slouchy oversized leather

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Han Kjobenhavn Men’s Spring 2020

For his second showing in Paris, Jannik Wikkelso Davidsen took inspiration from the Danish working class wardrobe. Taking elements of “mom’s wardrobe, dad’s wardrobe, the teenager’s wardrobe…” he mixed them up, usurping stereotypes and putting his distinctive, almost abrasive stamp on what is seen as “the norm.”
Davidsen’s casting – with models of all different shapes, sizes and physiques – enhanced that effect. “I’m trying to represent society as it is today,” he said backstage after the show. Along the runway, original workers’ union flags billowed thanks to fans operated by a guy on a rowing machine, moving tirelessly back and forth in time to the soundtrack.
Eighties-style office wear took on new meaning through shirts and tops made from tie fabric and paired with pants in black alligator-effect leather or draped crushed velvet – many worn with ties. The tailored silhouettes, with exaggerated square shoulders, were almost like something out of a dark comic strip.
A giant necktie became a dress, wrapped around the body but leaving little to the imagination on one of the women’s looks in the coed lineup. One guy walked the runway in a catsuit made from draped leather, another example of the designer’s play on androgyny.
Mixed in

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Comme des Garçons Shirt Men’s Spring 2020

Rei Kawakubo continued elevating classic shirts into veritable pieces of art for spring 2020, working with the estate of American artist Karl Benjamin and the Louis Stern Fine Arts gallery in Los Angeles on the Comme des Garçons Shirt collection.
Patchwork and printing techniques were used to recreate some of Benjamin’s paintings, which feature colorful, geometric elements.
Here, an Oxford shirt with dusky pink sleeves and collar featured vertical, asymmetric printed panels in the likes of yellow, light blue, green and cobalt. Another model, with a blue-and-white striped front, came with multi-hued printed shapes on the sleeves. Various versions of the intricate, eye-catching combinations were displayed, with up to 16 different screens needed for printing on just one shirt.
Likewise, patchworking could become highly involved, with as many as 23 different parts needed to be sewn together for one look. A shirt, worn with knee-length navy shorts, was comprised of materials with stripes of various widths and shades of blue, plus white fabric patches.
Color-blocking appeared on rainwear, in orange, mustard yellow, pink, red and light blue, for instance. While striped raincoats were worn over button-down shirts emblazoned with kaleidoscope swirls of geometric shapes and hues.
Kawakubo’s artistry gave yet another new, multi-dimensional spin on

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Sander Lak Wants a Piece of Men’s Wear Pie for Sies Marjan

NEW YORK — Reserved, quiet, unassuming. These are words that would never be used to describe Sander Lak.
Instead, the creative director of Sies Marjan is upbeat, engaging, smart, sophisticated — and talented.
Lak, a former designer for Dries Van Noten, is the engine that has propelled the three-year-old brand squarely into the fashion spotlight. His romantic and colorful women’s wear is carried at some of the most discerning retailers around the world, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense, Matches, Browns, Harvey Nichols, The Webster and so on.
One year after launching his women’s collection in 2016, the Dutch designer dipped his toe into the men’s arena, offering up a capsule with a similar sensibility that immediately took hold. And this week, Lak is going all in, showing his first full men’s collection on the runway during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Although Lak, who also worked with Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York, was trained as a men’s wear designer at Central Saint Martins, this is the first time he’s truly spreading his wings in the men’s arena.
Interestingly, Lak’s foray into men’s came as a result of creating pieces for himself that were not offered for sale. “It’s hard for me

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Grailed Opens Paris Pop-Up for Men’s Fashion Week

TOUCHDOWN: Grailed has landed in Paris. The online men’s fashion and streetwear marketplace has opened a pop-up on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau through Saturday, designed to be a “shoppable showroom” of more than 300 new and archival men’s wear pieces.
The showcase is the platform’s second pop-up after one in Los Angeles’ Fairfax district that ran for a few days in April.
According to a spokesman for Grailed, the marketplace has a strong following in Europe. Paris, as one of the world’s most influential cities for men’s style, was a logical choice, he said.
At the Paris space, customizable Grailed lab coats are available on a first come, first served and “best dressed” basis, according to the platform, with 40 up for grabs each day.
On Saturday, an Instagram competition will see 1,000 euros gifted to one attendee who posts and tags the showcase with the hashtag #GrailedPFW.
More on Grailed on WWD.com:
Grailed Celebrates Father’s Day With Adam Pally Closet Sale
Grailed Founder on Future of the Men’s Fashion ‘Movement’
Grailed Extends Beyond Secondhand Shopping

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Off-White Men’s Spring 2020

Plastic: once hailed as a miracle material, now condemned as a major pollutant – and possibly about to be considered a work of art, according to Virgil Abloh.
The designer’s customary clear plastic invitation for his Off-White show this season came printed with the word “plastic” – in quote marks, naturally – in one of the meta statements he has made a signature of the brand. “It’s using it as a metaphor,” Abloh explained backstage at the show, using one of his favorite terms.
“Within our generation, a banal term all of a sudden turns into a whole different context, basically in a matter of moments. Plastic is this material that was man-made to be very useful in different circumstances, and this invite, which I do every season, it’s now transformed into an art work,” he explained.
Underscoring the fleeting nature of value, street artists who were once seen as vandals now command stratospheric prices, Abloh said. He noted that a painting by KAWS sold for $ 14.7 million, largely above its $ 1 million estimate, at a sale of streetwear designer Nigo’s art collection held at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong in April.
Abloh wrote the foreword for the auction catalog, and tapped Futura, a contemporary

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Cowboys, Y-Fronts and the New Drag: Brands to Check Out During Paris Men’s Week

PARIS — Paris men’s fashion week is having a moment: Hailing from Los Angeles, Sweden, China or Monaco, Rhude, Eytys, Li Ning and Alter are among the rising international brands that have been added to the official men’s calendar and presentation lineup this season.
GAMUT
Things are going pretty fast for Gamut, the fashion collective created in 2017 by former students of La Cambre fashion school in Brussels — which is surprising, because the seven French nationals are intent on taking their time.
“We’re continuing to experiment with the fashion calendar: We chose to skip fall 2019 to focus on our showroom, and realized that taking nine months to create a collection was a rhythm we quite liked,” said one of the members — all of whom prefer to remain anonymous — speaking at the collective’s studio at the Porte de la Chapelle, a somewhat sketchy area in the remote 18th arrondissement.
Since its first debut show last September, Gamut has added a photographer/visual director to its team, and landed a spot on the French couture federation’s official calendar for presentations. Now it’s behaving like full-fledged business with dedicated members in charge of sourcing, production, administration and communication. Decisions are still fully collegial, though.
“Each

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Theory Men’s Spring 2020

Creative director Martin Andersson introduced new tailoring-focused silhouettes and shapes for the Theory men’s spring 2020 collection, with the intention of reminding consumers what the brand stands for and redefine what a suit should look like and how it should feel.
The designer looked to “the entrepreneurial spirit of New York City,” Theory’s home and its pulse, and “Tropical Modernism,” a concept created by Geoffrey Bawa in Asia in the Fifties that promotes “clean modern lines without any adornments,” for the overall feeling and theme of the collection, as well as “Mega Death” by Tatsuo Miyajima for the blue color palette, patterns and layering.
“I think for a long time, certainly my own aesthetic and I think in general, men’s wear has been very buttoned up and uptight and now I’m feeling a return to effortlessness,” Andersson said at the Theory showroom.
The “effortlessness” is evident in softer, unstructured suits that conform to the body. Despite the flowing nature of the fabrication, Andersson used words like “precision” and “technical” to describe the tailoring. A new double-breasted jacket in navy Italian cotton stretch fabrication is paired with a navy linen shirt for monochromatic uniformity and contrast, and fabrications such as paper nylon and Japanese

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Caruso Men’s Spring 2019

After sitting out Men’s Fashion Week for three seasons, Caruso opened the doors to its new showroom in Milan, designed like an apartment and peppered by furniture echoing the Fifties. It is to be followed by one in New York next month.
The Italian men’s brand, controlled by Fosun, is restarting under the lead of chief executive officer Marco Angeloni and through the designs of Aldo Maria Camillo. A graduate from the New York Fashion Institute of Technology, Camillo kicked off his career in 2003 as an assistant fashion designer at Valentino. Three years later, he was tapped by Emenegildo Zegna as senior men’s designer in the brand’s sartorial department, which he left in 2009 to return to Valentino as design director of the men’s line. In 2012, Camillo was named creative director at Cerruti, which he helped reposition in the luxury segment, while in September 2016 he joined Berluti as creative consultant collaborating with Haider Ackermann.
Camillo’s experience at such luxury brands served him well, as the Caruso collection he showed for spring was beautifully conceived and carried out. “We want to dress a real, dynamic man in his daily life,” said the designer. Ease and comfort are priorities for that

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Woolrich Men’s Spring 2020

Performance was the key word at Woolrich, where creative director Andrea Canè focused on the use of wind and water-resistant materials guaranteeing protection in extreme conditions.
Mountain jackets and field styles, injected with the brand’s signature urban take on sportswear, were crafted from a range of high-end materials, spanning from Gore-Tex to Italian fabrics paired with special membranes.
Neutrals, such as beige, khaki and navy, were juxtaposed with pops of yellow, red and electric blue, while patterns included Woolrich’s signature buffalo checks and a revisited camouflage motif.
The brand’s offering of shirts was enlarged to include a broad selection of options, such as denim and plaids, all paired with cargo shorts or trousers cut in comfortable silhouettes.

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Wilhelmina Bolsters Men’s Division

Wilhelmina is beefing up its men’s division.
The modeling agency on Friday hired Matthew Trust and Gene Kogan from competing agency DNA Models to co-direct its men’s board. They will replace Taylor Hendrick, who had headed the men’s division, but is leaving the company, according to Bill Wackermann, Wilhelmina’s chief executive officer.
Wackermann, a former Condé Nast executive who joined Wilhelmina Modeling Inc. in 2016, has been restructuring the company to expand its focus beyond the runway. That includes the development of Wilhelmina Studio, a creative agency that creates digital content and influencer programs for brands including L’Orèal, Ugg and Disney.
“In my almost four years here, my goal has been to increase the quality of our people,” Wackermann said. “It’s a really competitive industry and we want to have the best and brightest people who are committed to model development and social media.”
He expects the addition of Trust and Kogan to help grow the company’s historically “strong” men’s division. The agency counts models such as Francisco Lachowski, Marlon Teixeira and RJ King on its roster. Wackermann said Trust and Kogan are skilled at not just scouting new talent but working with other agents to identify potential models. He said that while international guys

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Lucio Vanotti Men’s Spring 2020

His garments suspended in an installation inspired by the soul-nurturing ritual of gardening, Lucio Vanotti created a mood of softness and protection, with exaggerated shawl collars on long coats, jackets and trenches to wrap the body in.
Focusing on natural fibers, the designer tinkered with classic men’s wear fabrics, including the glen check and the pinstripe, which was reinterpreted on shirts and jumpsuits in bold vertical stripes.
Certain silhouettes had an ethnic allure that was reinforced by the palette, like a pale green tunic shirt — cut short at the front, long at the back — with a Mao collar and matching pant.
Exaggerated apron-inspired silhouettes in robust cottons also informed the bags, while Vanotti in this serene, elegant collection also expertly mixed soft tailoring with workwear structures.

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Pitti Uomo and Milan Men’s Fashion Week: United They Stand

MILAN — Slim? Yes. Inconsequential? No.
There’s no arguing that the Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week calendar has shrunk in days and number of shows from years past and this season, which runs from June 15 to 17, it lost a cornerstone in Prada, which exceptionally decamped to Shanghai to show on June 6. Itinerant shows and coed collections in general have chipped away at Milan’s men’s calendar — but observers are still trumpeting its central role, especially pivoting around Pitti Uomo.
“Between Florence and Milan, it’s the most beautiful fashion week in the world,” enthused Brunello Cucinelli. “Pitti Uomo is an open-air fashion show, with 30,000 people walking around in a continuous exchange of ideas and it’s complementary to the big-name fashion shows in Milan, whose nature it is to hold such shows.”
Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Camera della Moda, has long been saying that Milan Men’s Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo together form one single Italian fashion week. “They have two different vocations but there’s no other country that has this kind of global offer and impact that Italy has,” Capasa contended, touting the 800 showrooms and 3,000 brands present in Milan.
“This is a story that comes around regularly, but Pitti

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Givenchy Men’s Spring 2020

“For me it’s the perfect serendipitous moment. I’d been looking to do a show and I wanted to do something very special, and then the invitation came,” said Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller, who for her debut stand-alone men’s runway display on Wednesday evening in Florence, as the special guest of the Pitti Uomo trade show, chose the luxuriant gardens of the Villa Palmieri as the stage for a collection fusing Old and New World aesthetics. The storyline was fed through a minimalist, Nineties filter, with a focus on clean, monochromatic total looks. It was easy to see the commercial potential in the line, which felt very urban and of the moment, with the airy, summery mood extending to the 30 tailoring silhouettes.
The designer sent out endless variations on the suit with a wide diversity of fits, including the return to the three-button silhouette with a slightly softer shoulder and a subtly pearlized luster in the fabric; boxy silhouettes echoed on shirts with drop sleeves, and a spin on the three-piece suit, pairing a coat with a matching jacket worn over bare skin. Waight Keller also included a couple of girls in the lineup, cementing the collection’s de facto genderless feel,

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Olivier Saillard Stages Ode to Contemporary Men’s Fashion

FLORENCE, Italy — “For museums, it’s easier to present an evening dress from the Fifties by a house like Balenciaga or Dior, but it’s not so easy to provoke a dream with a gray costume,” said Olivier Saillard.
For his latest exhibition — titled “A Short Novel On Men’s Fashion, Thirty Years at Pitti Immagine Uomo” and produced in collaboration with the Fondazione Pitti Imagine Discovery to mark the 30th anniversary of Pitti Immagine Uomo — he set himself the challenge of curating a show based on how men actually dress. “I looked at the [museum’s] collection, evening dresses by Dior, Balenciaga, Vionnet, and finally I realized, we don’t have any jeans, T-shirts — ordinary clothes which are also poetic,” he said a preview of the exhibition on Tuesday.

A view of Olivier Saillard’s new exhibition in Florence. 
Astra Marina Cucebi

Lived-in looking ensembles are presented on wire clothes valets throughout a series of rooms at the Museum of Fashion and Costume at the Palazzo Pitti, arranged in groups united by forms, colors and shapes with fun details like scarves and shoelaces suspended in movement, as if lifted by a sudden gust of wind. The ensembles — spanning smart-casual, evening wear, historical costume, streetwear

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Bethany Williams Men’s Spring 2020

Despite the cold wind and torrential rain, Bethany Williams outdoor show in the Garden Museum was beautifully serene. “It was so stressful, we had to change the whole set and format because of the weather,” she said backstage.
One would never have known and instead, the weather added drama to the clothes. Colors stood out against the dreary backdrop. Williams worked once again with artist Giorgia Chiarion to pay homage to Spires’ Butterfly Café – a safe space where vulnerable women meet to develop skills in arts and crafts.
“It’s called the Butterfly Café because it represents the development, transformation and growth that these women experience,” the designer said.
This was depicted with bright orange, yellow and pink swirled patterns that popped against a forest green track suit and a navy blue boxy suit.
Williams also worked with recycled tent material this season that took shape in a long parka, a zippered vest top and straight-legged trousers.
The designer introduced more fitted silhouettes and tailored pieces. A highlight was a woven multicolored coat with oversized lapels. Her collection was strong in its design and craftsmanship as her pieces weathered the storm.

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Asos Parties at The Public to Close NYFW: Men’s

The Public Hotel was the place to be Wednesday evening because of Asos. The retailer closed NYFW: Men’s with a party at the trendy hotel’s Public Arts space.
Attendees were treated to a performance by Swae Lee, one half of rap duo Rae Sremmurd, who closed his set with a performance of his Billboard Hot 100 chart-topping song “Sunflower” from the “Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse” soundtrack. Around his performance, Mazurbate and DJ Ty Sunderland provided tunes to keep the party going.
Asos is never one to turn down a party. The retailer in April held an event at No Name in Los Angeles with Life Is Beautiful festival. The event marked the launch of Asos’ collection for the festival and their multiyear partnership as exclusive retail partner.

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Xander Zhou Men’s Spring 2020

Xander Zhou has spent a lot of time reflecting on life’s meaning. “I focused on what essentially makes us human, our consciousness, our ability to have emotions. Then I thought about how this will look in the future with AI and technology,” he said.
The audience at his spring show was invited to ponder such questions, too. Sweet incense wafted through the vaults at Tobacco Docks, and guests were asked to slip on wrap skirts and sit on poufs as meditative music played. Then a wall lit up to show human and computer-generated models walking across the screen.
“The digital runway shows how technology and spirituality can come together. Mixing in CGI models underscores this transcendence. Many pieces have been inspired by ceremonial dress, as attending a fashion show in some ways is quite similar to attending a ceremony,” Zhou said.
All 73 looks were all based on skirts, from midi to maxi to pencil to A-line to voluminous and floor-length. While some models slid across the screen shirtless and wearing prayer beads and skirts, others wore T-shirts with SS2020 emblazoned across the chest.
Zhou also focused on tops. He presented washed denim shirts alongside traditional Chinese side-button shirts with Mandarin collars. There were

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Rip Up the Calendar: Men’s Show Weeks Are Not Working for Everyone

LONDON — Has the men’s wear industry outgrown its boots?
This is a golden moment for men’s wear, with flourishing sales, a fashion-loving generation of shoppers, and Instagram propelling sneaker-crazy young men into stores like never before. Despite it all, the seasonal men’s fashion calendars — with the exception of Paris — are shrinking.
The New York, London and Milan schedules have been shedding designers and brands for many reasons: Fashion houses have chosen the coed route, opted to show or present in different cities, take part in trade shows such as Pitti Uomo, or stage direct-to-consumer events, or digital shows.
Others have decided to take a step back and invest their marketing money elsewhere, refusing to be shackled to the runway — or the presentation space — season after season.
Christopher Raeburn, a longtime fixture on the London men’s calendar, has decided to pull out of the city’s spring/summer 2020 lineup, which runs from Saturday to June 10. He said he wants to explore new ways of engaging with his consumers and community.
“It is our job to disrupt, to capture and create a new mood,” said Raeburn, who last year was named global creative director of Timberland, and who continues to operate his

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Art School Men’s Spring 2020

Art School continued to make a case for gender blending and their spring collection was reminiscent of what girls might have worn to an Eighties prom: silver sequined dresses that fell off the shoulder, cropped bustiers or a leopard print tube dress.
While some pieces looked like mirror balls come to life, the rest of the collection was a sea of black.
However, designers Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt created interest by using different textures. Cue a shimmery four-pocket shirt jacket and a feathered vest.
A highlight included a one-shouldered sequined and feathered cocktail dress with an asymmetric hem.

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British Label Stefan Cooke Finds Its Voice, and Flies Solo, at London Fashion Week Men’s

LONDON — Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, cofounders of the label Stefan Cooke and finalists for the LVMH Prize, are about to stage their first solo runway show on June 9 during London Men’s Fashion Week, and they’re feeling the heat. “It feels surreal to be doing it by ourselves. It also feels intimidating,” said Cooke, who has witnessed a shower of accolades over the past two years.
The brand has won the H&M Design Award and the L’Oréal Professional Creative Award, but Cooke and Burt will now have to wait until September to see if they’ve scooped the LVMH Prize.
Having shown under the Fashion East umbrella, the duo have moved on from conceptual to more commercially focused designs. The label is stocked at Machine-A, Dover Street Market and Matchesfashion.com.
Their lines for spring/summer 2020 have a more relaxed silhouette than in past seasons, where trousers and shirts were tight and cropped. They will also be introducing a new bag concept, a category that’s been performing well for the company.
As they build the brand, they’ve been asking themselves some difficult questions, such as: “How do you take all of the things that are Stefan Cooke, like textile manipulations, and turn them into

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New York Men’s Day Offers Peek at All-Stars, Emerging Labels

New York Men’s Day’s afternoon session on Monday showcased both emerging designers and those who have created more-established businesses, ones touted as All-Stars. Those included Krammer & Stoudt, Descendant of Thieves and Wood House Army. Private Policy, which will hold a runway show on Wednesday, was also part of the mix.
Three  pieces from Krammer & Stoudt were psychedelic-colored updates of the brand’s Americana-skewed workwear, with jackets and pants created from 12-oz. denim and decorated with Day-Glo colors in designs including hot rod flames.
Julian Woodhouse of Wood House Army offered up WHA, three graphic black-and-white vertically striped looks from his diffusion line that included an anorak, shorts and a one-piece with military details.
For Descendant of Thieves, the brand offered up an assortment of multipurpose pieces for the travel guy, including reversible shorts, lightweight jackets and swimwear that could double as regular shorts.
Private Policy used the All-Star showcase to launch Pxl, a see-now-buy-now capsule collection of black, blue and green prints on shirts, trousers, caps, a bikini top and racing shorts.
Among the other brands showing at New York Men’s Day were International Woolmark Prize 2018/19 nominees Ka Wa Key, who presented a romantic collection of hand-done tie-dye patterns and distressing on airy knits and

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Men’s Designer Inspirations

The shows must go on — literally.
Although the schedule is sparse, with many big-name designers taking a pass, a few brands are still participating in New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which kicks off today for its three-day run.
New York, which jumped up from July this time, is now starting the men’s spring season, pre-dating London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Here, New York designers gave WWD an exclusive sneak peek at their vision, which ranged from the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall Inn demonstration and the art of deconstruction to Eighties queer culture.
 
“This collection was inspired by a clash between the mundane qualities of rural domesticity and the rebellious fluorescence of the ’80s queer underground.” — Neil Grotzinger, NIHL
“Deconstruct the traditions.” — Daisuke Obana, N. Hoolywood
“Inspired by the Stonewall Inn riot 50 years ago, the Private Policy spring 2020 collection is a call for community, so we can overcome societal challenges and prevail with courage together.” — Siying Qu and Haoran Li, Private Policy
“With a keen interest in exploring the hardness of the urban environment against the softness of an untouched culture, Abysm’s debut collection is inspired by the duality cultural and life experiences from my youth, fused with my desire to

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British Fashion Council Highlights London’s Diversity Ahead of London Fashion Week Men’s

LONDON — The British Fashion Council wanted to celebrate diversity and culture with its latest campaign, “This Is London,” during London Fashion Week Men’s, which runs June 8 to 10.
The campaign, a series of 12 images, features a group of industry figures hailing from different backgrounds, from poet James Massiah to up-and-coming designers Bethany Williams, Paria Farzaneh and Bianca Saunders, retailer Stavros Karelis, filmmaker Akinola Davis and musician Louis III. It was shot by London-based photographer Markn, who has previously worked with Nick Knight.
“We wanted to celebrate not only the designers, but also the broader creative community who all play a vital role in our industry’s culture and reputation,” said Caroline Rush, chief executive officer of BFC, who also makes an appearance on the campaign, alongside Dylan Jones, editor in chief of British GQ and chair of men’s wear at the BFC.
“The ‘This Is London’ campaign shines a light on the incredible pool of talent that makes London the creative capital of the world. From rising stars to established names, the campaign features a diverse mix of individuals, celebrating the eccentricity of our capital while illustrating that LFWM is a global platform for innovation and culture,” added Jones.
The campaign aims

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Dior Men’s Kim Jones Edits Issue of ‘A Magazine Curated By’

GUEST CURATOR: Kim Jones, creative director of Dior Men, has edited the new issue of fashion publication “A Magazine Curated By.”
Launching in London on May 29, the magazine’s 19th issue, named “A Magazine Curated By Kim Jones,” was entirely overseen by Jones, from the two covers, shot by photographer David Vasiljevic under the creative direction of Dior makeup image director Peter Philips, to the 26 artist “letter” pages that make up the hefty 248-page tome.
The designer’s approach for the issue takes the form of an alphabet retracing his inspirations and eclectic circle of friends: Subjects range from “A” for Naomi Campbell’s Africa, “P” for punk with a photo shoot by Jackie Nickerson, and ending with “Z” for Amanda Lear, whose song “Alphabet” was one of the inspirations for the magazine.

Kim Jones and Naomi Campbell by Hugo Scott in “A Magazine Curated By Kim Jones” 
Courtesy

Other contributors include Japanese illustrator Hajime Sorayama, who imagined a portrait of model Bella Hadid in his signature futuristic style, photographers Brett Lloyd, Pierre-Ange Carlotti and Nick Knight, as well as U.S. artist KAWS, who submitted an artwork featuring Kate Moss cuddling his signature plush toys, surrounded by the KAWS bee illustration designed by the artist for

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EXCLUSIVE: Mytheresa to Launch Men’s Wear for a Post-Streetwear World

LONDON — This is a man’s world, to borrow from James Brown, with big retailers such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges casting fresh eyes over their men’s fashion floors and expanding their spaces to cater to a brand-conscious generation.
Online players such as Mr Porter, Matchesfashion.com, Farfetch and the British site Endclothing are making more space for sneakers, men’s capsules, exclusive products and limited editions, while the Paris men’s show schedule is back-to-back, with new international names and hot contemporary labels that show men’s and women’s wear alike.
Mytheresa, which until now has sold women’s wear only, is vaulting into the arena with a gutsy proposition to deliver a new elegance to the category, complete with a lineup of luxe brands, tailored clothing and price points suited to shoppers with deep pockets.
Where other retailers may be stretching their offer or floor space to include more streetwear, T-shirts, sneakers, grooming products and entry price points, Mytheresa is taking a different direction in the belief there is untapped demand for a new take on the classics and a more formal attitude.

Michael Kliger, president of Mytheresa. 
Courtesy

While Mytheresa’s offer will include sneakers and lots of casualwear, anyone looking for pure streetwear will be let down.
“It’s

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s Hanging on by a Thread

New York Fashion Week: Men’s is on life support.
Less than three weeks until the start of the men’s spring runway season, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has finally released its calendar — and it’s not pretty.
There are fewer than 20 men’s designers showing and half are with Agentry PR’s New York Men’s Day. Absent from the calendar are some designers who have been active supporters of the men’s shows since they were launched four years ago, including Todd Snyder, Robert Geller, Ovadia New York, Carlos Campos and Bode.
Instead, the calendar kicks off on June 3 with Agentry’s presentations of small and emerging designers only. The following day, N.Hoolywood will show at 6 p.m., followed by Frere at 7 p.m. The final day on June 5 will see presentations from Hecho, Freemans Sporting Club, Untitled Collective, Dyne and Linder, as well as shows from Private Policy, NIHL and Grungy Gentleman.
The reasons for the lack of participation are several. First, this marks the first time the men’s shows have moved from July to June to coincide with women’s resort. That timing is early for a lot of brands since the men’s market in New York is generally in mid- to

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Giorgio Armani to Hold Signature Men’s Show in June at Storied Via Borgonuovo HQ

HOME SWEET HOME: For the first time in 18 years, Giorgio Armani will show his namesake men’s collection for spring 2020 at his storied headquarters at 11 Via Borgonuovo.
The show is scheduled on June 17 at 5 p.m., closing Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which kicks off on June 14.
Armani took control in 1996 of the stately 17th-century building, Palazzo Orsini, named after the 12th-century family, but in 2001 the designer unveiled offices and his Teatro, designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando on Milan’s Via Bergognone — in a former Nestlé industrial area, and effectively helping to revamp that part of the city.
The Emporio Armani show will be held at the Teatro on June 15 at 11 a.m.
The designer has most recently been experimenting with different formats and venues. Last September, he staged a coed Emporio Armani show at Milan’s Linate Airport — at the Hangar where the imposing Emporio Armani billboard has been placed since 1996. That was the first time a fashion show was held at that site and it was followed by a Robbie Williams concert.
In February, for the first time, Armani held a coed show for his signature line at Silos, the exhibition space he opened in 2015, opposite the

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Sies Marjan Expected to Show Men’s in Paris

Count Sies Marjan as the latest brand to make the jump from New York to Paris.
Sources said the buzzy New York-based brand will hold its first men’s-only show in June during Paris Fashion Week. The company declined to comment but an announcement is expected next week.

The label, designed by Sander Lak, a former head of design for Dries Van Noten, has historically shown men’s looks during his women’s show in New York, but a more-intense focus on its men’s collection has prompted the company to opt for the Paris runway where many of the higher-profile brands show.

Sies Marjan launched as a luxury women’s label in 2016 in New York. Lak, a Dutch native, debuted his first full men’s line for fall 2018.
Before spending five years at Dries Van Noten, Lak, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, worked at Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York. His Sies Marjan brand is known for its use of color, proportion and innovative materials.

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Agentry to Open New York Fashion Week: Men’s Again

Agentry PR is pivoting.
The organizer of New York Men’s Day, a showcase for emerging designers, will once again open the men’s spring calendar, working in tandem with the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
The CFDA shifted the men’s dates to June 3 to 5 this season to coincide with the women’s resort calendar. This means the New York-based men’s shows will take place ahead of the men’s shows in London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Agentry had considered sticking with the former July dates to give the designers more time to prepare their collections and align with the New York men’s trade shows, but opted to stick with CFDA instead.
But there are other changes: New York Men’s Day will now be held at Daylight Studios & Location 05, next to the newly opened Hudson Yards complex on the West Side of Manhattan. For the past few seasons, the shows had been held at Dune Studios in the financial district.
New York Men’s Day will feature presentations from nine designers, down from 12 in prior iterations. Five will be held over a two-hour period in the morning and four in the afternoon.
But the event will also feature an All Stars Showcase where previous Men’s

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Dior to Open Men’s Pop-ups Featuring Soroyama Robot

Dior Men is getting a lot of mileage out of its Hajime Sorayama sculpture.
Last November, the brand’s artistic director Kim Jones commissioned a 39-foot-tall sculpture of a robot woman by Japanese contemporary artist Sorayama to be the centerpiece for his pre-fall 2019 men’s show in Tokyo. The artist also designed a Dior logo for the season and his futuristic imagery became part of the prints used in the collection.
Now, smaller versions of the sculpture are making their way to retailers in North America, where they will be featured in a series of pop-ups this spring.
The first debuted at The Park at CityCenterDC in Washington, D.C., on Tuesday. The 16.4-foot version will remain on site through May 7.
On May 1, Holt Renfrew’s Yorkdale store in Toronto will install a 9.2-foot version that will remain there through May 31. On the other coast, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., will take delivery of the robot that had been at CityCenter and install it in its Jewel Court on May 14. It will remain there through May 28.
Designed like pods, the interconnected spaces are modular and can be adapted to a number of different retail locations. Inside the metal pods are mirrors

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Penney’s Changes Chief Men’s Merchant

The changes are continuing at J.C. Penney.
James Starke, the company’s longtime head of men’s wear, has exited the retailer and has been replaced by Jeff Useforge.
Useforge, whose title is senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and children’s, will oversee the company’s private and national brands. He was formerly vice president and divisional merchandise manager of men’s, big and tall, activewear and team apparel for Penney’s. Before that, he was a senior buyer of big and tall and The Foundry, a big and tall concept that it had once hoped to roll out as a chain.
Useforge has more than 30 years of retail experience and began his career with Mercantile Department Stores. He also spent five years with Saks Inc. in the Proffitt’s and McRae’s division, where he was gmm of men’s and children’s. He has also worked for Bon-Ton and Kohl’s.
Starke had spent 13 years at Penney’s, mainly in the men’s department. His most recent role was senior vice president and senior gmm of men’s, children’s, jewelry and home, according to his LinkedIn profile. He joined Penney’s in 2005 after spending eight years at Foley’s in Houston, also primarily in the men’s area.
He could not be reached

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SportChek – Buy One Get One Free Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Socks at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!

Buy One Get One Free Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Socks at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!
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Koral Delves Into Men’s With Equinox 

LOS ANGELES — Koral, the activewear brand backed by Seven For All Mankind cofounder Peter Koral, will enter the men’s space exclusively with Equinox before a broader rollout at retail.
The men’s line launches with more than 20 stockkeeping units, priced from $ 75 to $ 300 and utilizing many of the same performance fabrics seen in the women’s line, such as lightweight scuba. The men’s collection takes on a streetwear-inspired aesthetic and a color scheme of navy and taupe.
The official launch is April 30 in 19 Equinox stores for a six-month exclusive, in addition to Koral’s online shop. The collection will broaden for fall with a larger stockkeeping unit count distributed to more retailers.
“I would love if men’s could be just as big as the women’s business one day,” chief marketing officer and cofounder Marcelo Kugel said. “I think we can get a stronghold in the market and that’s why Equinox wanted to be our main partner on this because they see the opportunity for growth and then we’ve also been approached by Peloton, Barry’s Boot Camp and Net-a-porter with the launch of fall.”
Koral helped fund the business in the beginning, fueling about $ 8.5 million worth of working capital. The business has now been

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SportChek – Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!

Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!
Code: No Code
Begin: 2019-04-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-04-25 02:00:00
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Men’s Brands Jump Into Sustainability Efforts

Like many things in men’s wear, it often takes a bit longer for a trend to take hold than it does in women’s wear. Sustainability has been no exception. But now, most men’s brands and retailers are all in.
While some men’s designers, such as Christopher Raeburn, were early adopters, others are just now jumping on board. According to Cara Smyth, vice president of Glasgow Caledonian New York College and founder of the Fair Fashion Center sustainability program, those in the outdoor industry were among the first to embrace the movement due to their ties to nature. But the movement has since spread to a variety of men’s wear brands.
“Many men’s brands are interested in sustainability as it provides operating efficiencies that reduce impacts and reflect the values of the brand to both consumers and even investors where applicable,” she said.
So whether it’s PVH’s goal to generate zero waste, or Perry Ellis’ new solar panel installation project at its distribution center in Seneca, S.C., companies big and small have gotten on board.
Here is a closer look at some of the brands leading the way in men’s wear.
Christopher Raeburn
Just call him the King of Upcycling. The U.K.-based designer has been a champion

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Etro Men’s Line to Make Runway Comeback in June

RUNWAY RETURN: Etro is bringing its men’s line back on the catwalk.
Following a three-season runway hiatus, during which Etro men’s creative director Kean Etro organized engaging presentations, the brand will unveil its spring 2020 collection with a show on June 16.
The last men’s collection that Etro showed on the catwalk was the spring 2018 lineup, which was presented with a coed runway show at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio venue in Milan.
The location of the upcoming men’s show is still to be disclosed. After seasons of shows held at Palazzo del Ghiaccio, last February Etro showed its women’s fall 2019 collection at Milan’s Giuseppe Verdi music conservatory.
Etro, which counts more than 200 stores, is investing in communication and marketing, strengthening the experience in stores and increasing digital content. Europe is still Etro’s biggest market, representing 30 percent of sales. It is followed by Asia and the U.S., accounting for 30 and 20 percent of the brand’s total business, respectively.

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SportChek – Up to 50% Off Men’s & Women’s Clothing & Jackets at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!

Up to 50% Off Men’s & Women’s Clothing & Jackets at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!
Code: No Code
Begin: 2019-04-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-04-25 02:00:00
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SportChek – Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!

Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!
Code: No Code
Begin: 2019-04-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-04-25 02:00:00
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SportChek – Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!

Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!
Code: No Code
Begin: 2019-04-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-04-25 02:00:00
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SportChek – Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!

Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!
Code: No Code
Begin: 2019-04-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-04-25 02:00:00
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Chief Merchant Scott Norris Exits Men’s Wearhouse

The changes have begun at Tailored Brands.
The California-based men’s wear retailer has parted ways with Scott Norris, the long-time chief merchant for its flagship Men’s Wearhouse division, WWD has learned.
Norris, who had been with the company since the mid-1990s, was named brand president of Men’s Wearhouse and Moores in 2014. He started his career as a buyer for Macy’s in 1991 and joined The Men’s Wearhouse as executive vice president and general merchandise manager in 1996, according to his LinkedIn profile.
“After 22 incredible years and countless contributions to The Men’s Wearhouse, Scott Norris has decided to leave the company to try something new,” a company spokesperson confirmed. “We wish him every success in his next chapter.”
Norris could not be reached for comment.
Last fall, Tailored Brands brought Carrie Ask on board as president of the Men’s Wearhouse and Moores brands. Norris, who had held that position since 2014, was named chief merchant.
At the end of March, the company elevated Dinesh Lathi, the former executive chairman, to chief executive officer, succeeding Doug Ewert, who had retired from the top post at the end of September 2018.
Lathi has been highly critical of the company’s past strategies, saying the retailer has underinvested in its

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WWD Men’s Summit: Hilary Coles of Hims

Hims is making waves in the wellness industry by tapping into a market that has otherwise been largely neglected: men.
“We launched Hims to address and normalize conversations that have been too often stigmatized and educate men that it’s OK to take care of themselves and actually, it’s kind of weird not to,” said Hilary Coles, Hims’ brand leader. “We help men take care of themselves through a telemedicine platform. What that means is that we offer men access to over-the-counter and prescription medicine via an easy-to-use online consultation that pairs them with doctors licensed in their states and from a network of pharmacies across the country.”
Launched 18 months ago, Hims now has “hundreds of thousands” of men using its platform, said Coles, which gives them access to FDA-approved, medical-grade products, educational tools and medical expertise.
“In health care, there’s a debilitating stigma attached to really important issues for men. It’s largely caused by a vacuum and a lack of conversation because men are unfortunately afraid to approach these hard conversations and they’re afraid to approach them with doctors, with their closest friends and even with their partners,” Coles said.
To combat this stigma, Coles and her team place extra emphasis on packaging

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Grailed Founder on Future of the Men’s Fashion ‘Movement’

Men’s fashion has changed a lot in the past decade, and Arun Gupta sees it changing still.
Led by a young male consumer obsessed with streetwear, a new interest in fashion has led the popular success of sites like Grailed, which Gupta founded in 2013 as a marketplace and community platform for “super enthusiasts,” like himself. But already the culture is moving beyond streetwear.
“The men’s clothing movement, it being acceptable for men to care more about the clothes they wear, has been building for the past 10 years,” Gupta said. “But streetwear is the last phase of it.”
Already on Grailed, he said the inventory is about evenly split between streetwear and fashion, possibly a sign that the realm is cooling off a bit. And then there’s the split between the two types of fashion consumers Gupta is seeing.
“One is the consumer who buys to wear it, then there’s the consumer buying to flip it,” Gupta said. “It’s very prevalent in sneakers and now very prevalent in streetwear and it’s pretty unique to the ecosystem.”
He compared the level of resale with a brand like Celine, where new items have been slow to appear on Grailed and a brand like Supreme, which shows

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MEN’S FORUM: The Whitaker Group’s James Whitner Relies on Instinct and Close Consumer Connections to Stay Ahead

For The Whitaker Group’s founder James Whitner, being the consumer is essential to knowing the consumer.
With an assortment of stores via his company’s four retail entities — Social Status, A.P.B., Prosper and A Ma Maniére — Whitner emphasized the importance of being submerged with the people you are trying to connect with. He asked, “Are you focused on the consumer? Do you know who the consumer is and why? Most people don’t. You’re casting a wide net in men’s wear…I’m the guy. I’m the guy who’s buying the stuff and wearing the stuff.”
Aside from anticipating what his shoppers want, Whitner spoke of how he tries to design spaces that they will emotionally respond to. “I’m always trying to re-create the places and spaces I’ve been in. I feel like I have a romantic affair with the consumer in the process. Can someone cue the music? [Romantic tunes follow.] When I walk into a store, this is how I feel. I’m being romanced by the romance,” he said.
Referring to outdated business practices that can’t keep up with quick fire social media and fashion’s rapid speed of change, Whitner said, “You’ve got to set your businesses up to move like we move.

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Men’s Wear Movers

These 12 designers, brands, retailers and influencers are changing the face of the men’s wear industry.
 
1. Hedi Slimane
 
As the original androgynous designer who set in motion the skinny tailoring movement in his days at Dior Homme, it’s no surprise that Hedi Slimane’s appointment as artistic, creative and image director at Celine was one of the most newsworthy debuts of last year, marking the label’s first steps into the men’s arena.
“I am enchanted; what a great choice,” said the late Karl Lagerfeld, one of Slimane’s most enthusiastic fans, at the time of Slimane’s appointment at Celine in January 2018.
Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has called Slimane “one of the most talented designers of our time.”
The Frenchman has a track record of reinterpreting cool and attracting youth, tapping into the energy of the music and art scenes and positing his designs in a broader cultural context.
The nomination — which also includes heading Celine’s women’s fashion as well as leather goods, accessories and fragrances — was part of an ambition to at least double the brand’s sales within five years, making it one of LVMH’s top labels after Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior.
With his debut

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Noma T.D. RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Noma T.D.
Main message: Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki have been designing their brand for more than a decade, but their latest collection was the first one they presented at Tokyo Fashion Week. First they showed a short film directed by Rinko Kawauchi with music by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Titled “Harmony,” it showed simple, everyday scenes at a family country house and the surrounding wilderness as winter changes to spring.
Next, a black curtain opened to reveal eight models in relaxed, outdoorsy Noma T.D. looks. A pajama-like set of flannel pants and a shirt in a big, bold check pattern was paired with a black fishing vest for men, while a gray, navy and dark green floral print satin dress peeked out from under a plush wool coat for women. There was also a blue tie-dyed sweatsuit, a shirt embroidered with large flowers, and a quilted black coat with striped satin sleeves in black and deep blue.
The result: The offering, while small, showed a balance between street-ready and outdoorsy pieces, making it well suited for the modern urbanite.

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Mytheresa Expands Into Men’s Wear, Taps Chris Kyvetos

LONDON – Munich-based retailer Mytheresa is adding men’s wear to its offer and bringing Sneakerboy founder Chris Kyvetos to be its new buying director of men’s wear.
Kyvetos, a serial entrepreneur who founded the Australian chain of concept showrooms selling high-end and mass market sneakers via iPad, will be tasked with building a new dedicated men’s wear team and developing the retailer’s market strategy for the category.
Kyvetos is also the buyer and franchise partner of Balenciaga in Australia and previously served as a consultant at Stylebop, another Munich-based e-commerce site. In addition to Sneakerboy, which Kyvetos has opened to re-sellers as of late and developed as a space where “kids sell shoes to each other”, he has also been planning the launch of his own sneaker line, Athletic Footwear, as well as the opening of a new China atelier that will will champion ethical and transparent footwear manufacturing.
For Mytheresa, hiring Kyvetos and moving into men’s wear was the next step, following on from the strong growth of the company’s women’s wear business and expansion into kid’s wear last year. “Men’s wear will be a natural expansion for Mytheresa and represents a significant business opportunity going forward. We see a strong momentum

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The Women of Men’s Wear

It’s not just an old boys club in men’s wear. There are a few women who have spent nearly their entire careers designing, merchandising, presenting or selling to the guys. Here, a look at 10 ladies who have made their mark in the men’s industry and continue to stand out from the crowd.
Mary Beth Blake, president, Jos. A. Bank

Mary Beth Blake 
Courtesy Photo

Work history:
Blake joined Tailored Brands Inc. in 2008 as the chief merchandising officer of K&G, then served as executive vice president for Tailored Brands. She was charged with overseeing the Jos. A. Bank division in 2016. Blake started her career in merchandising with May Department Stores Co. and also spent several years with Macy’s including a stint as general merchandise manager of men’s wear for the Midwest division.
What do you find appealing about the men’s industry?
Men’s wear is undergoing transformation as men are becoming more style- and fit-aware. This sea change as well as casualization of his work wardrobe make it an exciting time to be in the men’s industry.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of being a woman in men’s wear?
One advantage is that women bring an outside perspective to the men’s clothing business. Men’s clothing is evolving, and we

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Salvatore Ferragamo to Stage Men’s Show at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Salvatore Ferragamo will unveil its spring 2020 men’s wear collection in the brand’s native city, Florence.
The luxury fashion house will stage a runway show on June 11 during international men’s trade show Pitti Uomo.
Following three seasons of coed shows hosted during the women’s editions of Milan Fashion Week, Salvatore Ferragamo will hold the “Florence Calling” event dedicated to its men’s wear collection, designed by creative director Paul Andrew with the support of Guillaume Meilland, head of men’s wear. Andrew has recently put on hold his namesake footwear line to focus exclusively on the design of Salvatore Ferragamo men’s and women collections.
“Florence has always been a creative and inspirational platform for Salvatore Ferragamo and for our founder. Pitti Uomo is therefore the natural location for expressing the contemporary vision that represents us today: strong cultural continuity between different generations, with a constant eye to the future,” said Andrew.
“It is an opportunity for emphasizing our DNA, that added value that makes us distinctly unique,” he added.
Salvatore Ferragamo chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo put the focus on the special link between the company and its native city.
“Florence is our heart, a part of our history,” Ferragamo said. “At a moment of great consolidation

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Cinoh RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Cinoh
Main message: Takayuki Chino has been heading his own brands for over a decade, but as one of the winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, he staged a runway show for the first time this season. With it, he showed his audience just why Cinoh has reached levels of popularity that many Tokyo brands can only hope for, being carried by top retailers across Japan.
The designer showed a relaxed, slightly disheveled sophistication. A leopard print, plush fleece pantsuit and long, fringed straight skirts for women shared the runway with men’s suits that were reimagined with pullovers in the place of button-front jackets. Long satin dresses, pleather overalls, fuzzy knits and easy fit trousers were given a subtle injection of Nineties grunge when paired with oversize plaid jackets and shirts. The theme was also hinted at in the show’s soundtrack, which included an instrumental backing track of Nirvana’s 1991 hit “Smells Like Teen Spirit.”
The result: With equal parts elegance and comfort, it was a collection that will surely resonate with Tokyo’s fashion-forward youth, without alienating older consumers.

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Nobuyuki Matsui Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Nobuyuki Matsui
Main message: The first clue that Nobuyuki Matsui’s first Tokyo Fashion Week outing was going to be something unusual was the invitation: a small cardboard box holding a single air pillow, on which details of the show were printed. When audience members arrived, they were asked to step over the back of long benches in order to reach their seats. The long, narrow runway was strewn with air packaging, some filled with goose down, which popped under the models’ feet, adding a strange kind of percussion to the soundtrack.
Some of the clothes also incorporated the pillow-like pouches, which were tied with strings to coats or stuffed inside a tan leather vest that was cut to look like another form of packaging material. But the concept didn’t run through the entire collection, and some looks of simple pants and shirts felt bland and unimaginative. More interesting was Matsui’s modern take on tailoring, which included pullover vests and suits with exposed stitching, contrast fabrics, and trousers that were either cropped or cinched with belts at the ankle.
The result: The collection showed ingenuity and a fresh take on some men’s wear staples, but it was inconsistent and would have benefited from

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Bloomingdale’s Introducing Dylan Gray Men’s Brand for Spring

Bloomingdale’s is getting back into the men’s private brand business.
A decade after the retailer retired its in-house collections brands, Joseph & Lyman and Metropolitan View, in favor of a classifications strategy, it is launching a bridge collection for spring under the name Dylan Gray.
The line is described as “a modern, sophisticated update on classic men’s sportswear that fuses the elegance of European luxury with the ease of American sportswear.”
The 38-piece collection of soft tailored clothing, transitional outerwear, knits and trousers is manufactured predominantly in Europe. It is designed to be a hybrid of tailored and sportswear.
“We felt there was a white space in the European transitional classic zone in our stores,” said Dan Leppo, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and home for Bloomingdale’s. “We think there’s an opportunity with all that’s happening in direct-to-consumer today to offer great value and great fashion that moves beyond commodity.”
Leppo said Dylan Gray is “made with the modern man in mind, offering solutions for work or play for today’s smart casual lifestyle, without sacrificing style. It’s about fusing classic sportswear with Old World sophistication at a compelling price point.”
Prices will range from $ 98 to $ 698 and will include marled bird’s-eye polos,

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Postelegant RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Postelegant
Main message: One of the six winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, Yuya Nakata’s fledgling brand (established only two years ago) aims to make “timeless modern wear with the best materials and details.” For the brand’s first collection shown on the runway, it did just that. The silhouettes were classic and refined, including different cuts of long coats, tailored trousers and calf-length dresses. And while they were beautifully cut to move with the body, it was the fabrics that set them apart from simple basics. Wool blends in sky blue and red, ribbed knits in the perfect shade of medium gray, a fine, bone-colored twill, and a trio of cloths all in dusty pink all begged a second look.
The result: A newcomer on the Tokyo fashion scene, Nakata proved himself as one to watch with a collection that went beyond elegant to something new and undeniably modern.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Mistergentleman
Main message: Always one of the bright spots during Tokyo Fashion Week, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s men’s brand mixed easy tailoring with streetwear, outdoor and women’s wear influences for fall. Models walked the grass-like carpeted runway in retro, relaxed snakeskin print suits paired with satin double-breasted shirts and neckerchiefs, or velvet pants with roomy overcoats. The more casual looks included dad jeans, hooded sweatshirts and duck canvas jackets, all in neutral shades of gray, brown, khaki and black, interspersed with pops of purple, green and orange.
Osumi and Yoshii played with proportions, shrinking trenches and puffer jackets into crop tops and styling them over wool coats and loose sweaters. Moto, letterman and toggle jackets were chopped up into bib-like pieces and layered over outerwear, while a series of coats and jackets were cut from two contrasting fabrics: olive corduroy and gray wool flannel, or plush fleece with the same snake print from earlier pieces. Subtle feminine touches came in the form of silk scarves worn as belts over coats, and a handful of equestrian print jackets and shifts. The brand also debuted its latest collaboration products, including quilted bags made with Outdoor Products and a black satin bomber designed

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Beverly Hills Men’s Suiting Veteran Jumps to Avedon

Stuart Newmark, the longtime general manager of the now-shuttered men’s retailer Carroll & Co., has created a new customization concept within existing retailer Avedon in Beverly Hills with the help of senior buyer and partner in the business Nancy Herrera.
Newmark, who served as general manager of Carroll & Co. for more than 30 years, teamed with Avedon owners Reza Shekarchian and Yasmine Farmanara on a lounge concept called Bespoke at Avedon. The deal merges his buying prowess with that of Shekarchian to merchandise the men’s store.
Carroll & Co. began a store closing sale late last year, shuttering its doors for good after the Carroll family received an offer they couldn’t refuse on the building the retailer occupied. Carroll & Co. had long been a mainstay in Beverly Hills, once frequented by high-profile A-listers such as Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and Jack Lemmon.
Newmark, still seeing a demand for customization and luxury men’s brands, spotted a hole in the market with Carroll & Co.’s closure.
“It’s still viable. We had a huge custom business, which is also a big part of what I’m doing here, along with carrying inventory similar to what we did there,” said Newmark, who was hired in 1989 by

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The Reracs RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: The Reracs
Main message: With her inaugural show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Naomi Kurahashi displayed just how to present classic pieces on a runway without boring the audience: make sure to have plenty of variety, use beautiful textiles, keep the pace quick, and employ inventive styling choices. The brand lived up to its profile, which says that it’s “backed by quality and practicality,” but proved that it has so much more to offer.
The collection was made up of variations on a pretty basic theme: straight-legged or relaxed, jogger-style trousers paired with V-neck sweaters or just about any kind of outerwear imaginable, all turned out in neutral tones of gray, black, navy, white and beige. But the superior construction and luxurious textiles elevated the collection beyond simple classics, with suiting material showing a drape resembling that of matte jersey, and a black pleather poncho turning more heads than it would have if it had been made from animal skin. The fabrics were so beautiful on their own that there was no need for flashy prints, but occasional flashes of Fair Isle, argyle or checked patterns kept things interesting.
The result: Kurahashi has been designing The Reracs for nearly a decade, but proved

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Ssense Launches Marine Serre Men’s Line

Ssense has snagged the exclusive for the launch of the Marine Serre’s first men’s designs.
The 22-piece collection includes fleece jackets, dégradé tracksuits, bike shorts, T-shirts and accessories that are rich in Nineties nostalgia.
The collection retails from $ 95 for a whistle-festooned lariat to $ 2,270 for a floral-print blanket coat.
Ssense is a luxury retailer based in Montreal that has a strong following with men and women under the age of 34.
Serre, a Parisian-based designer, has been a winner of the LVMH Prize, and made her mark with crescent-moon print bodysuits and dresses made from upcycled silk scarves for women. Her clothes blend futuristic, athletic and couture references.

She had interned at Maison Margiela and quit her job in the studio of Balenciaga in September 2017 to focus on her own label. This is her first men’s wear capsule.

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