Who needs a runway show, when you can open a four-month pop-up store? While many past and current designers participating in New York Fashion Week weigh the upsides and downsides of staging a show, others are paving new routes to tie into the buzz. For Misha Nonoo, that means unveiling a 2,300-square-foot pop-up at 150 Greene Street on Monday. The New York-based designer will offer a variety of her signature pieces, but shoppers won’t find anything that she helped develop in conjunction with her friend Meghan Markle’s yet-to-be-released Marks & Spencer collection. The Duchess of Sussex’s Smart Works capsule collection is reportedly debuting Thursday and will benefit the charity that helps unemployed women. Having ditched wholesale for a direct-to-consumer business model nearly three years ago, Nonoo decided on the SoHo location based on analytics culled from online sales. To give the pop-up “a good run,” it will be during the key fall and holiday selling seasons. “Based on how the location works for us and how everything else works out in the store, we’d love for the space to become permanent. We’ll see if we decide to stay in that exact location or we move around. But New York is such an important
BEING MORE DIRECT: Having relaunched the business as direct-to-consumer more than a year ago, Nonoo started to think about on-demand manufacturing four or five months in. Seasonality was an initial motivator to sell straight to shoppers, but sustainability made her seek a manufacturing partner that would spare any fabric liability, take care of marking and grading and ensure cutting and sewing with a two-day turnaround time.
After six factories bid for the direct-to-consumer business, the designer decided on her existing partner — a “very entrepreneurial” Chinese factory owner, who was born and raised in New York City. Once an order is placed on her site, the item is cut and sewn in two days and then shipped directly to customers with U.S. ones receiving their merchandise in three days. “In a way, it’s this idea of going back to old school luxury but almost on a fast fashion calendar. In doing that, I realized that not only would I cut out more inventory, I would also cut out contributing to more waste. I would also be able to offer more sizes,” she said.
Earlier this month she started offering her Easy Eight in sizes from extra small to extra large, and from
DIVING INTO DIGITAL: Misha Nonoo’s brand will skip a traditional runway format this upcoming spring 2016 show season. Instead, the label will hold a “digital-only” presentation. The brand says that it will leverage Instagram to present its new designs.
Nonoo was not available for comment, as she is presently traveling abroad. Her spokesperson was unable to make an official statement in Nonoo’s absence, but did confirm that while additional details for the presentation are unavailable — the brand will indeed present a “full collection” online.
Misha Nonoo debuted her namesake label in fall 2011. It has since been nominated for a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award and the Woolmark Prize. The brand’s studio is currently a participant in the CFDA’s “Incubator” studio space.