Men’s Trend Spring 2020: Man as Muse

A new model of masculinity was on display at the men’s runway shows for spring as designers tapped into today’s tectonic cultural shifts to offer softer, more fluid and gender-bending styles, including pearls and handbags for men. It all generated an artistic vibe, as seen here in a Comme des Garçons coat with pleated sleeves and shorts suit.

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Knot Standard to Dress Spring Place Staff

Knot Standard, a custom men’s brand, has inked a deal to dress the staff at Spring Place. The New York-based company has designed the uniforms for the collaborative workspace and members-only clubs in Los Angeles and New York. Knot Standard worked with the employees to get their measurements, fabric choices and personalized options. The staff will be provided with solid blue or navy suits made from either a lightweight wool cloth or a linen, wool and silk blend. “Partnerships have been an important part of our strategy for growth since the beginning,” said John Ballay, chief executive officer and cofounder of Knot Standard. “We’re constantly seeking collaboration opportunities with like-minded brands to expand our reach at a local and national level. Spring Place and Knot Standard align on so many levels, and we’re proud to be a part of the Spring Place community.” Bryan Woody, general manager of Spring Place New York and Beverly Hills, said Knot Standard “embodies our classic, elevated aesthetic. “Like Spring Place, Knot Standard is a customer-driven brand that is constantly evolving and innovating to meet clients’ needs. Our uniform speaks volumes to who we are as a company, and we value a partner like Knot Standard that shares

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2020

Sex, love, glamour and immigration.
All these hot topics, mixed with masculine queer culture, set the tone for Willy Chavarria’s runway return to New York — and boy, was he missed.
Known for his Chicano heritage vibes, Chavarria’s former stint in the Nineties, the creation of “The Love Garage,” a club in San Fransisco that embraced rave culture and gritty house music, served as one of the key components of his take on what minimalism can mean.
In this case, the usually big, oversize silhouette that has defined Chavarria took a sophisticated turn that still managed to maintain a tough edge.

The first portion of the show showcased standouts such as a black washed satin robe with matching shorts, along with an array of flared and high-waisted denim numbers, often paired with souvenir jackets or matching oversize boxy shirts. Quilted leather handbags, an item typically associated with high luxury, adorned most of the models, along with black and gold chains used as necklaces, belts and handbags, which provided a refined touch.
Part two featured a collaboration with athletic brand K-Swiss: a Nineties California Chicano tennis prep collection — oversize pastels in blue and pink with a bit of neon that enhanced sweatshirts, baggy shorts and

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Beaufille RTW Spring 2020

Chloé and Parris Gordon drew on their recent, first visit to Japan for inspiration, and delivered a clean, modern lineup with a healthy amount of artistry. They used a bright orange, ultra-thin yet super-strong fabric to craft a series of romantic blouses and dresses — unfussy cuts with carefully dosed ruffled accents, or puffy sleeves. Also uplifting: a paper-thin waxed cotton made into a bright, orange rain dress. Who needs a traditional raincoat?
The pair likes to take their clients from day to evening. With this in mind, they crafted a transformable, button-up blouse with an extra flap to wrap around the neck like a handkerchief; similarly transformable, a tan suit jacket, with straps to cinch around the waist or leave open, with a different effect. Trained at a design school in Nova Scotia that teaches all stages of the garment-making process — down to weaving materials to make fabric — the designers seek to make sturdy, well-made pieces that exude effortless chic. In a nod to their artistic mother, who encouraged their creativity growing up — they recalled she would unfurl rolls of brown paper for them to decorate — they used one of her paintings as a pattern for

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Zoë Jordan RTW Spring 2020

Zoë Jordan worked a lively, Ibiza-flavored lineup of sporty knitwear apt for the festival circuit — or the beach. Keeping things easy, her signature cashmere tracksuits came in chic ivory tones or bright, tie-dyed numbers, reflecting her lifestyle change from the city in London to that Mediterranean outcrop where the jet-set crowd lets loose. Long, mesh tops with low, drawstring waists came in lizard green or melon yellow, new accents in a universe dominated by pinks and oranges; an Eighties-flavored layer to toss over a swimsuit. Slightly distressed touches and cutout holes added a touch of shabby chicness of the techno-festival sort, including the frayed bottom of a tie-died skirt and holes in the arms of a bright pink sweater that was dip-dyed — a new technique for the label. Also new, a crocheted dress, cut like an extra-long tank top, all stripes. The sportier looks were also striped, including halter tops and shorts, anchoring the profusion of papaya-pink.

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Isabel Marant Étoile RTW Spring 2020

For the spring collection of Isabel Marant’s Étoile line, the designer worked her trademark volumes into a fashionable lineup that melded seduction with comfort. Amped-up shoulders added heft — on a feminine, embroidered peasant blouse or gray acid washed jean jackets and vests. There were a lot of one-piece looks, including a vest-shorts combo in a faded tie-dye print, a long trouser jumpsuit in a western-inspired floral pattern and a dark boiler suit, cinched at the ankle, with ample volumes on the shoulders and arms. Fluidity came in the form of airy blouses and flower-printed dresses in silk chiffon while structured numbers included a double-breasted flannel suit and quilted jackets. In the footwear department, choices included ivory cowboy boots or studded white wide-leg heels.

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Rag & Bone’s Mashed-up Men’s Spring Collection

Marcus Wainwright is feeling twisted these days.
For the spring men’s collection, Wainwright, the founder and chief brand officer of Rag & Bone, “mashed things up” by taking the brand’s key pieces and updating them to appeal to a street and sports fan.
Wainwright said the collection just returned to New York after being shown to buyers in Europe, where it received a strong reception from retailers.
“Our men’s business is really strong,” he said. “Men’s in general is having a prolonged moment and ours is very stable and growing nicely.”
But what customers were clamoring for, he said, was “more fashion.” Not over-the-top trendy items, but pieces that “push the line and the tenets of the brand,” he said.
So for spring Wainwright answered the call by designing “a more twisted Rag & Bone,” he said during a walkthrough of the line at the company’s Meatpacking District showroom in Manhattan. “Every season we go back to workwear, British tailoring and military references but we’re also bringing in sports elements.”
Case in point: part of the spring offering was “very loosely inspired by tennis from the 1920s onward,” Wainwright said, pointing to a collection of sweaters with V-neck ribbing and other details specific to the sport.
Other

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Hang Loose

Men’s wear designers amped up the volume for spring — from looser cuts on suits and trousers to flowing ponchos and baggy knitwear. Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons captured the style with her stellar collection, which played on the theme of Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando,” and also hit the genderless trend.

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Graphic Art

Bold prints and patterns were all over the men’s runways for spring, with many designers collaborating with artists on the looks. Turning the process on its head, and creating a new paradigm, was artist Sterling Ruby, who has added “designer” to his résumé with his brand S.R. Studio. LA. CA., coming up with one of the standout collections of the season.

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Jacquemus Spring 2020

The roving cruise and men’s shows this season have taken the fashion pack to destinations as far-flung as Marrakech, Malibu and Shanghai. And so it was that a day after the close of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, a clutch of editors found themselves sitting in a lavender field somewhere in the South of France.
Guests including Emily Ratajkowksi, Jeanne Damas and Bruna Marquezine gathered near the small town of Valensole in Provence to help Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrate the 10th anniversary of his label with his first joint women’s and men’s show.
An hour’s drive north of Aix-en-Provence, they arrived in rolling lavender fields where a pink felt ribbon of a runway unfurled as far as the eye could see, against the stunning backdrop of the Alpilles mountain chain.
“I wanted a place that looked like a postcard — almost too much like a postcard, even. It was important to me to turn that cliché into something artistic, with that pink line running through the middle like a contemporary art installation by Christo, or a painting by David Hockney,” the designer told WWD.
The invitation came in the form of a small bottle of SPF 50 sunscreen printed with the words “Le Coup de

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Pigalle Paris Men’s Spring 2020

It didn’t start very well: Guests arriving at the Pigalle Paris spring show were informed that there was only one elevator — able to transport seven people at the time — to go up to the seventh floor of the parking lot where the presentation was held. Mayhem ensued, with bouncers striving to enforce health and safety measures, and the presentation finally started 45 minutes behind schedule — not ideal on the last day of fashion week.
But what a view: a panoramic view of Paris taking in the colorful tubes of the Centre Pompidou, the Grand Palais and the Eiffel Tower, with the Sacré Coeur looming behind the show space. As has become its trademark, Pigalle Paris set out to celebrate the city of its birth, parading the clothes in front of a triptych of panels depicting a futuristic version of the City of Light, its grey slate roofs turned lilac. Guests could play “spot the difference” by comparing the artwork to the actual view behind it.
Models in the first part of the presentation, wearing mirrored helmets, were decked out in pristine silk tracksuits and flowing Champagne-colored suits. It was street couture at its very best: A slouchy oversized leather

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Han Kjobenhavn Men’s Spring 2020

For his second showing in Paris, Jannik Wikkelso Davidsen took inspiration from the Danish working class wardrobe. Taking elements of “mom’s wardrobe, dad’s wardrobe, the teenager’s wardrobe…” he mixed them up, usurping stereotypes and putting his distinctive, almost abrasive stamp on what is seen as “the norm.”
Davidsen’s casting – with models of all different shapes, sizes and physiques – enhanced that effect. “I’m trying to represent society as it is today,” he said backstage after the show. Along the runway, original workers’ union flags billowed thanks to fans operated by a guy on a rowing machine, moving tirelessly back and forth in time to the soundtrack.
Eighties-style office wear took on new meaning through shirts and tops made from tie fabric and paired with pants in black alligator-effect leather or draped crushed velvet – many worn with ties. The tailored silhouettes, with exaggerated square shoulders, were almost like something out of a dark comic strip.
A giant necktie became a dress, wrapped around the body but leaving little to the imagination on one of the women’s looks in the coed lineup. One guy walked the runway in a catsuit made from draped leather, another example of the designer’s play on androgyny.
Mixed in

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Comme des Garçons Shirt Men’s Spring 2020

Rei Kawakubo continued elevating classic shirts into veritable pieces of art for spring 2020, working with the estate of American artist Karl Benjamin and the Louis Stern Fine Arts gallery in Los Angeles on the Comme des Garçons Shirt collection.
Patchwork and printing techniques were used to recreate some of Benjamin’s paintings, which feature colorful, geometric elements.
Here, an Oxford shirt with dusky pink sleeves and collar featured vertical, asymmetric printed panels in the likes of yellow, light blue, green and cobalt. Another model, with a blue-and-white striped front, came with multi-hued printed shapes on the sleeves. Various versions of the intricate, eye-catching combinations were displayed, with up to 16 different screens needed for printing on just one shirt.
Likewise, patchworking could become highly involved, with as many as 23 different parts needed to be sewn together for one look. A shirt, worn with knee-length navy shorts, was comprised of materials with stripes of various widths and shades of blue, plus white fabric patches.
Color-blocking appeared on rainwear, in orange, mustard yellow, pink, red and light blue, for instance. While striped raincoats were worn over button-down shirts emblazoned with kaleidoscope swirls of geometric shapes and hues.
Kawakubo’s artistry gave yet another new, multi-dimensional spin on

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Off-White Men’s Spring 2020

Plastic: once hailed as a miracle material, now condemned as a major pollutant – and possibly about to be considered a work of art, according to Virgil Abloh.
The designer’s customary clear plastic invitation for his Off-White show this season came printed with the word “plastic” – in quote marks, naturally – in one of the meta statements he has made a signature of the brand. “It’s using it as a metaphor,” Abloh explained backstage at the show, using one of his favorite terms.
“Within our generation, a banal term all of a sudden turns into a whole different context, basically in a matter of moments. Plastic is this material that was man-made to be very useful in different circumstances, and this invite, which I do every season, it’s now transformed into an art work,” he explained.
Underscoring the fleeting nature of value, street artists who were once seen as vandals now command stratospheric prices, Abloh said. He noted that a painting by KAWS sold for $ 14.7 million, largely above its $ 1 million estimate, at a sale of streetwear designer Nigo’s art collection held at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong in April.
Abloh wrote the foreword for the auction catalog, and tapped Futura, a contemporary

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Theory Men’s Spring 2020

Creative director Martin Andersson introduced new tailoring-focused silhouettes and shapes for the Theory men’s spring 2020 collection, with the intention of reminding consumers what the brand stands for and redefine what a suit should look like and how it should feel.
The designer looked to “the entrepreneurial spirit of New York City,” Theory’s home and its pulse, and “Tropical Modernism,” a concept created by Geoffrey Bawa in Asia in the Fifties that promotes “clean modern lines without any adornments,” for the overall feeling and theme of the collection, as well as “Mega Death” by Tatsuo Miyajima for the blue color palette, patterns and layering.
“I think for a long time, certainly my own aesthetic and I think in general, men’s wear has been very buttoned up and uptight and now I’m feeling a return to effortlessness,” Andersson said at the Theory showroom.
The “effortlessness” is evident in softer, unstructured suits that conform to the body. Despite the flowing nature of the fabrication, Andersson used words like “precision” and “technical” to describe the tailoring. A new double-breasted jacket in navy Italian cotton stretch fabrication is paired with a navy linen shirt for monochromatic uniformity and contrast, and fabrications such as paper nylon and Japanese

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Caruso Men’s Spring 2019

After sitting out Men’s Fashion Week for three seasons, Caruso opened the doors to its new showroom in Milan, designed like an apartment and peppered by furniture echoing the Fifties. It is to be followed by one in New York next month.
The Italian men’s brand, controlled by Fosun, is restarting under the lead of chief executive officer Marco Angeloni and through the designs of Aldo Maria Camillo. A graduate from the New York Fashion Institute of Technology, Camillo kicked off his career in 2003 as an assistant fashion designer at Valentino. Three years later, he was tapped by Emenegildo Zegna as senior men’s designer in the brand’s sartorial department, which he left in 2009 to return to Valentino as design director of the men’s line. In 2012, Camillo was named creative director at Cerruti, which he helped reposition in the luxury segment, while in September 2016 he joined Berluti as creative consultant collaborating with Haider Ackermann.
Camillo’s experience at such luxury brands served him well, as the Caruso collection he showed for spring was beautifully conceived and carried out. “We want to dress a real, dynamic man in his daily life,” said the designer. Ease and comfort are priorities for that

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Woolrich Men’s Spring 2020

Performance was the key word at Woolrich, where creative director Andrea Canè focused on the use of wind and water-resistant materials guaranteeing protection in extreme conditions.
Mountain jackets and field styles, injected with the brand’s signature urban take on sportswear, were crafted from a range of high-end materials, spanning from Gore-Tex to Italian fabrics paired with special membranes.
Neutrals, such as beige, khaki and navy, were juxtaposed with pops of yellow, red and electric blue, while patterns included Woolrich’s signature buffalo checks and a revisited camouflage motif.
The brand’s offering of shirts was enlarged to include a broad selection of options, such as denim and plaids, all paired with cargo shorts or trousers cut in comfortable silhouettes.

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Lucio Vanotti Men’s Spring 2020

His garments suspended in an installation inspired by the soul-nurturing ritual of gardening, Lucio Vanotti created a mood of softness and protection, with exaggerated shawl collars on long coats, jackets and trenches to wrap the body in.
Focusing on natural fibers, the designer tinkered with classic men’s wear fabrics, including the glen check and the pinstripe, which was reinterpreted on shirts and jumpsuits in bold vertical stripes.
Certain silhouettes had an ethnic allure that was reinforced by the palette, like a pale green tunic shirt — cut short at the front, long at the back — with a Mao collar and matching pant.
Exaggerated apron-inspired silhouettes in robust cottons also informed the bags, while Vanotti in this serene, elegant collection also expertly mixed soft tailoring with workwear structures.

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Givenchy Men’s Spring 2020

“For me it’s the perfect serendipitous moment. I’d been looking to do a show and I wanted to do something very special, and then the invitation came,” said Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller, who for her debut stand-alone men’s runway display on Wednesday evening in Florence, as the special guest of the Pitti Uomo trade show, chose the luxuriant gardens of the Villa Palmieri as the stage for a collection fusing Old and New World aesthetics. The storyline was fed through a minimalist, Nineties filter, with a focus on clean, monochromatic total looks. It was easy to see the commercial potential in the line, which felt very urban and of the moment, with the airy, summery mood extending to the 30 tailoring silhouettes.
The designer sent out endless variations on the suit with a wide diversity of fits, including the return to the three-button silhouette with a slightly softer shoulder and a subtly pearlized luster in the fabric; boxy silhouettes echoed on shirts with drop sleeves, and a spin on the three-piece suit, pairing a coat with a matching jacket worn over bare skin. Waight Keller also included a couple of girls in the lineup, cementing the collection’s de facto genderless feel,

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Bethany Williams Men’s Spring 2020

Despite the cold wind and torrential rain, Bethany Williams outdoor show in the Garden Museum was beautifully serene. “It was so stressful, we had to change the whole set and format because of the weather,” she said backstage.
One would never have known and instead, the weather added drama to the clothes. Colors stood out against the dreary backdrop. Williams worked once again with artist Giorgia Chiarion to pay homage to Spires’ Butterfly Café – a safe space where vulnerable women meet to develop skills in arts and crafts.
“It’s called the Butterfly Café because it represents the development, transformation and growth that these women experience,” the designer said.
This was depicted with bright orange, yellow and pink swirled patterns that popped against a forest green track suit and a navy blue boxy suit.
Williams also worked with recycled tent material this season that took shape in a long parka, a zippered vest top and straight-legged trousers.
The designer introduced more fitted silhouettes and tailored pieces. A highlight was a woven multicolored coat with oversized lapels. Her collection was strong in its design and craftsmanship as her pieces weathered the storm.

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Xander Zhou Men’s Spring 2020

Xander Zhou has spent a lot of time reflecting on life’s meaning. “I focused on what essentially makes us human, our consciousness, our ability to have emotions. Then I thought about how this will look in the future with AI and technology,” he said.
The audience at his spring show was invited to ponder such questions, too. Sweet incense wafted through the vaults at Tobacco Docks, and guests were asked to slip on wrap skirts and sit on poufs as meditative music played. Then a wall lit up to show human and computer-generated models walking across the screen.
“The digital runway shows how technology and spirituality can come together. Mixing in CGI models underscores this transcendence. Many pieces have been inspired by ceremonial dress, as attending a fashion show in some ways is quite similar to attending a ceremony,” Zhou said.
All 73 looks were all based on skirts, from midi to maxi to pencil to A-line to voluminous and floor-length. While some models slid across the screen shirtless and wearing prayer beads and skirts, others wore T-shirts with SS2020 emblazoned across the chest.
Zhou also focused on tops. He presented washed denim shirts alongside traditional Chinese side-button shirts with Mandarin collars. There were

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Art School Men’s Spring 2020

Art School continued to make a case for gender blending and their spring collection was reminiscent of what girls might have worn to an Eighties prom: silver sequined dresses that fell off the shoulder, cropped bustiers or a leopard print tube dress.
While some pieces looked like mirror balls come to life, the rest of the collection was a sea of black.
However, designers Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt created interest by using different textures. Cue a shimmery four-pocket shirt jacket and a feathered vest.
A highlight included a one-shouldered sequined and feathered cocktail dress with an asymmetric hem.

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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
Code: No Code Needed
Begin: 2019-04-10 00:00:00
Expire: 0000-00-00 00:00:00
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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
Code: No Code Needed
Begin: 2019-04-10 00:00:00
Expire: 0000-00-00 00:00:00
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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
Code: No Code Needed
Begin: 2019-04-10 00:00:00
Expire: 0000-00-00 00:00:00
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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
Code: No Code Needed
Begin: 2019-04-10 00:00:00
Expire: 0000-00-00 00:00:00
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Bloomingdale’s Introducing Dylan Gray Men’s Brand for Spring

Bloomingdale’s is getting back into the men’s private brand business.
A decade after the retailer retired its in-house collections brands, Joseph & Lyman and Metropolitan View, in favor of a classifications strategy, it is launching a bridge collection for spring under the name Dylan Gray.
The line is described as “a modern, sophisticated update on classic men’s sportswear that fuses the elegance of European luxury with the ease of American sportswear.”
The 38-piece collection of soft tailored clothing, transitional outerwear, knits and trousers is manufactured predominantly in Europe. It is designed to be a hybrid of tailored and sportswear.
“We felt there was a white space in the European transitional classic zone in our stores,” said Dan Leppo, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and home for Bloomingdale’s. “We think there’s an opportunity with all that’s happening in direct-to-consumer today to offer great value and great fashion that moves beyond commodity.”
Leppo said Dylan Gray is “made with the modern man in mind, offering solutions for work or play for today’s smart casual lifestyle, without sacrificing style. It’s about fusing classic sportswear with Old World sophistication at a compelling price point.”
Prices will range from $ 98 to $ 698 and will include marled bird’s-eye polos,

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer), Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20

Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer) Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
Code: SPRING19
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer), Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20

Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer) Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20
Code: PLAY20
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer), Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20

Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer) Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20
Code: PLAY20
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
Code: SPRING19
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer), Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20

Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer) Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20
Code: PLAY20
Begin: 2019-03-11 00:00:00
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
Code: SPRING19
Begin: 2019-03-04 00:00:00
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

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‘Friday the 13th: The Game” Coming to Nintendo Switch This Spring (EXCLUSIVE)

“Friday the 13th: The Game” is coming to Nintendo Switch this Spring with the release of “Friday the 13th: The Game Ultimate Slasher Switch Edition,” developer Gun Media tells Variety. The upcoming edition includes all released content and paid DLC, including every Jason Kill Pack, both Counselor Clothing Packs, and the Emote Party Pack. It […]

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Tommy x Zendaya Spring 2019

When the original Battle of Versailles happened in 1973, an African-American hadn’t yet made it onto the cover of American Vogue (that would be Beverly Johnson in 1974), much less into the creative director role at a European luxury house like Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton Men’s. Fashion’s record of inclusion is still far from perfect, but on Saturday night in Paris, Tommy Hilfiger and multihyphenate Zendaya reminded everyone of America’s role in the change with their celebration of diverse beauty featuring models of color in all sizes to launch the first Tommy x Zendaya collection in stores now.
Roller disco dancers on an illuminated runway warmed up the crowd of over 1,000 guests at the Art Deco-style Théâtre des Champs-Élysées on Avenue Montaigne, including previous Hilfiger collaborator Gigi Hadid, Janelle Monáe, Yara Shahidi and Luka Sabbat.
It turns out roller discos aren’t unfamiliar territory for five-time Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton, whose second collection for Hilfiger drops in a couple of weeks.
“My dad use to go to roller discos in the Eighties,” he told WWD. “So when I was younger, I used to borrow his skates and go to a couple of places in Stevenage, where I grew up in Britain.”
The cross-generational

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JW Anderson Taps Julie Greve to Shoot Spring Campaign

A FRESH FACE: Jonathan Anderson has always seen his role both at JW Anderson and Loewe as a “cultural agitator” as much as designer.
A longtime champion of photography and pushing the boundaries of image-making, he launched the “Your Picture/Our Future” project last year, in a bid to shine the spotlight on the new generation of photographers.
Now he has tapped Julie Greve, one of the winners of the competition, for his latest spring 2019 campaign, which will be released this week.
The campaign, dubbed “Jagged Whispers Ashore” includes a series of black-and-white images that have a nostalgic, raw feel to them, as well as a film shot by Greve. She worked alongside Anderson, stylist Benjamin Bruno and the creative agency M/M Paris to conceptualize the images and film.
Greve, who is U.K.-based, was one of three winners of Anderson’s “Your Picture/Our Future” photography competition. She also worked on the brand’s fall 2018 campaign alongside the other two winners.
As part of the initiative, which is supported by Prince Charles’ charity The Princes Trust, Anderson was flooded with more than 1,800 submissions from young, 18- to 30-year-old imagemakers. He selected three winners and curated an exhibition in Covent Garden last May, to showcase some of

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Azzi & Osta Couture Spring 2019

Lebanese designers George Azzi and Assaad Osta presented their silk road inspired couture collection in Paris. The designers, who both worked with Elie Saab, before launching their own label, have known each other since design school days and shared a mutual fascination with journey of dressmaking. “It was always very fascinating to us how silk as a luxury had to travel from one side of the earth to another to get to the royal courts of Europe,” Osta said. Each piece from the collection paid tribute to a city, monument or memorable landmark along the road. The designers used various techniques including pleating, antique embroideries and the sculptured structures to reflect the journey. The color palette reflected of the skies from dusk to dawn, with shades of jade green, cerulean blue, jasmine white, powder pink, lilac, mulberry yellow and twilight blue.
“The idea of how secretive and protected the provenance and art of silk making was is very similar to couture, the savoir faire, the well-kept secret of the couture house, and the journey that undertakes every piece,” Azzi added. The designers have caught the attention of celebrities, dressing Beyoncé, Cardi B and Kendall Jenner.

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Olivier Lordonnois Joins Spring Place as Chief Creative Officer

TAKE YOUR MARK: Spring Place has recruited Olivier Lordonnois as its new chief executive officer.
Already in his new post, Lordonnois joins the collaborative workspace and social club from The Mark Hotel where he served as general manager. His 20-plus years of experience includes runs at such prestigious properties as The Ritz Paris, The Lanesborough in London, and two other Paris addresses — Hôtel Costes and Hotel de la Tremoille. The latter he helped elevate to a five-star hotel, according to a Spring Place spokeswoman.
He takes on some of the responsibilities handled by Francesco Costa, who has been appointed co-chairman of Spring Place, which has outposts in New York City and Beverly Hills. There are also plans to ramp up the cultural components through programming rooted in creativity, innovation, the arts and entrepreneurialism in those spots. Spring Place executives have set their sights on London for a potential new location.
Given his experience, Lordonnois’ tasks will include helping Spring Place amp up its levels of hospitality and experiential features. Spring Place will be serving up its own travel-oriented event Feb. 6 to 14 — a Peruvian-inspired pop-up restaurant hosted by Coya. There will be a limited number of reservations available for the public each

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Aganovich Couture Spring 2019

It was a striking scene. Ghostly couture silhouettes designed by Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor, the duo behind Aganovich, seemed eerier still once set against the backdrop of a carpenter’s workshop.
A roaring fire rattled the panes of the Parisian atelier to the sound of pigeons cooing while models slowly navigated their way along the machines, surrounded by wood planks and various hardware. The label’s second couture collection explored the story of a woman on a journey: “She’s armed and protected, but as she goes through life things happen and she becomes someone different,” Aganovich explained.
This was expressed by trailing unfinished hems, giving the impression of the looks unraveling before the viewers’ eyes. The models’ faces were constricted by veils, with the occasional addition of fake locks of hair piled on top of their heads.
The looks were all about contrast. White billowing silhouettes were pitted against yellow plaid suits, a Victorian gown followed a jacket with a structured waist, and a delicate feather-rimmed skirt was given a hard edge when paired with leather boots held up by safety pins.
As expected of a couture collection, all the materials were treated in Paris by the label’s atelier. The brand uses the same patterns as

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Yuima Nakazato Couture Spring 2019

Is couture, the French word for sewing, still couture if there is no needle or thread involved? Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato thinks so.
His spring 2019 couture collection was created via a new production system named Type-1, a combination of digital fabrication and artisanal techniques. Tiny buttons in either metal or plastic are used to assemble pieces of laser-cut fabric from preexisting garments, which can be customized at leisure.
This procedure is meant to both extend the lifetime of a garment and create clothing that has personal meaning. In the manner of the traditional Japanese kimono, made of simple rectangular units that can be rebuilt and worn across generations, Nakazato based his collection around eight different people who took a meaningful item and made it into a wearable piece of clothing. A widow transformed her husband’s paintings into delicate smock dresses, while a child’s plush toys and favorite teddies were turned into a bespoke garment. Different scraps of lace were fixed together in a patchwork creating a flowing Victorian dress, the Type-1 rivets drawing a dotted line along the seams.
“The collection started as an endeavor to extend the lifetime of each garment,” said the designer, who aims to develop a customization concept inviting

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Rami Kadi Couture Spring 2019

Lebanese-American designer Rami Kadi offered up a firework display that was an explosion of color and glitter for his first runway presentation. Inspired by the Burning Man festival. In that context, his heavily embellished designs registered as something of an acid-induced hallucination of iridescent sequin strands, mirrored Plexiglas forms and neon and crystal beading.
Bustier skater dresses and slinky full-length numbers mingled with embroidered leggings or chaps, with many designs playing with asymmetry through the addition of contrasting ruffles or black patent leather half-coat features. Elaborate tribal headdresses topped several looks, enhancing the ritualistic drum beat of Kadi’s couture trip.

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Giambattista Valli Couture Spring 2019

Guests arriving at Giambattista Valli’s show at the Centre Pompidou in Paris had diamonds on the soles of their shoes: the carpet was strewn with pounds of glittering Swarovski crystals that crunched underfoot. “Paris by night,” said the designer backstage. “It’s the feeling of lightness.”
That’s been in short supply this season, as couture houses struggled to complete their collections amid ongoing protests by the gilets jaunes movement, which delayed deliveries and blocked access to studios and workshops.
“I haven’t slept in two days because, like everyone, we were delayed by the gilets jaunes. It was a catastrophe,” Valli said. In fact, dresses were still being finished at the last minute, meaning the show started almost an hour late.
So what to do when life gives you lemons? Make lemonade, naturellement. “Today, France is being torn apart culturally and socially. I thought it was important to remind myself why I came here, and what makes it an extraordinary country,” the Italian designer explained.
Hence his deep dive into the essence of Paris couture, with a show that featured his signature extravagant trains, but also touched upon Orientalism and a louche sensuality that is oh-so-Parisienne. The starting point was a 1977 Helmut Newton photograph of

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Neglect Adult Patients RTW Spring 2019

Name: Neglect Adult Patients
Main message: Designer Junnosuke Watanabe has a diverse background, having studied political science and economics at Waseda University and performed as a member of a Japanese music group. For his first runway show, he played on his unusual brand name and turned out a hospital-themed collection, even sending out models in mint green gowns and scrub suits. There were also T-shirts and sweatshirts with slogans such as “Touch me, I’m heavy sick” and “Medical play.” He filled out the offering with a series of shorts and jackets in red plaid, leopard print and ath-leisure fabrics.
The result: Despite some odd English phrases, the clothes were pedestrian and showed Watanabe’s inexperience, although he’ll likely find customers among his fans. But it’s not clear that he needed a runway show to do it.

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Mitsuru Okazaki RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Yohji Yamamoto alum Mitsuru Okazaki’s brand is only in its second season, but it is already establishing itself as one to watch during Tokyo Fashion Week. The designer is adept at creating unexpected shapes out of simple textiles, such as the denim skirts topped with petal-like layers or the white pants covered in pyramid-shaped puckers that he sent down his spring runway. He also did interesting things with concealed zippers, placing them on balloon sleeves and pant legs so that when zipped open they looked like multiple slits, sometimes in contrasting colors. Diagonal stripes and colorblocking gave movement to otherwise simple tapered trousers and button-down shirts.
The result: The collection was both cohesive and inventive, as well as casual and real-world friendly, making it a strong second effort. And unlike many designers who show in Tokyo, Okazaki demonstrated his ability to self-edit.

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Malamute RTW Spring 2019

Name: Malamute
Main message: Former knit designer Mari Odaka drew from her roots while also demonstrating her range with her spring collection, the first one she’s shown on Tokyo’s runways. The knits were many and varied, from oversize, mixed-texture sweaters to open knit dresses and crop tops with openings at the elbows. But she combined these with silky and velour blouses, sheer mesh pants, and loose-fitting denim for a contrast of textures. The lines were clean and the colors classic shades of navy, beige, white and red, while bits of fringe and lace created focal points.
The result: Odaka delivered a strong offering with a clear point of view and unique sensibility, proving she deserves a spot on Tokyo’s regular fashion week calendar.

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Mintdesigns RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mintdesigns
Main message: Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katsui gave their garden party-evoking collection a Space Age edge with tinsel wigs, Mylar visors and headscarves, and simple black cubes on their stark white runway. They showed loose, ankle-length dresses and skirts in sheer mesh or botanical prints, paired with fringed knits, wide herringbone striped tunics and linen suits. A few all-black looks, some with dark leopard-print pants or metallic accents, kept it from feeling too sweet or predictable.
The result: The easy shapes and soft textiles would be right at home at any picnic, but unexpected accents kept it feeling fresh, modern and urban.

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Ksenia Schnaider RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ksenia Schnaider
Main message: Ksenia Schnaider’s Ukrainian resort-themed collection was a breath of fresh air during a largely subdued Tokyo Fashion Week. Its kitschy vibe and beachy influences translated into a fun collection of urban cool-girl clothes. The designer said she was inspired by the makeup and high heel-wearing beachgoers from her home country. She sent out sequin-encrusted T-shirt dresses, Hawaiian sunset-print shirts, and denim with unfinished edges and plenty of cargo pockets. A standout fur-like frayed denim jacket closed the show.
The result: With high energy, a clear theme and a fresh feeling, the collection was one of the most promising of the first half of the week, and showed that the designer doesn’t take herself too seriously.

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Hare RTW Spring 2019

Name: Hare
Main message: A stark white runway got pops of bright greens, yellows and blues as Hare’s models walked in sporty mesh dresses, straight-leg pants, ankle-length skirts and bomber jackets. The silhouettes were familiar but the brand, designed by a team, has a large digital following, proving its commercial appeal. A head-to-toe shibori tie-dye look on denim and chambray, and a satin jumpsuit in a marbled paint print stood out, while details such as fanny packs and large cargo pockets hinted at a Nineties theme.
The result: While the pieces themselves were not particularly exciting, the styling and accessories helped to elevate them slightly, and the bright colors contrasting with black and white felt fresh.

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Jenny Fax RTW Spring 2019

Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: “An ordinary girl from a small town is going to buy a flower print dress for her date. That is so romantically sad,” said Shueh Jen-Fang’s show notes. Prone to taking inspiration from childhood themes and experiences, the designer made this collection a grown-up storybook tale. Spanning clown-like jumpsuits with exaggerated shoulders to sweet floral or pastel dresses with huge pockets, it permeated humor. But there were also plenty of less innocent details, like dresses, skirts and long fringed shorts worn with buttons and zippers undone to show the navel, or satin thong underwear attached to the outside of frocks and extending all the way up to the shoulders. Tiny cropped jackets, an oversize, stonewashed denim double-breasted blazer, and mismatched sleeves played with proportion.
The result: As the last show of Tokyo’s spring fashion week, it did not disappoint, cleverly mixing together unique yet wearable pieces with more theatrical, conceptual ones.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2019

Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.

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Figue RTW Spring 2019

Stephanie von Watzdorf was awash in the afterglow of the Meghan Markle effect when presenting her spring Figue collection. The Duchess of Sussex wore a floral dress from the collection for her first speech on the royal tour in Fiji earlier this week. “She’s in Fiji, which is one of my dream destinations, and she’s talking about women’s empowerment and education, which is so on my radar, aside from animals and outfits,” said von Watzdorf, adding that Markle’s effect on sales is real.
As for the spring collection, von Watzdorf titled it Nomad Love. She culled decorative elements — stripes, beading, florals, embroidery — from nomadic tribes the world over and coalesced them into pajama tops and bottoms, silk and cotton caftans, peasant tops and robes that fit the bill for pretty, bohemian style whether you’re wandering the globe or going about your everyday life and want something that telegraphs “summer.” What felt newest were airy, voluminous cotton dresses in polka dots, a quilted ikat robe and a great pearl and evil eye jewelry collaboration with Beck Jewels.

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2019

Two-and-a-half years after Tory Burch launched Tory Sport, the brand’s performance results are coming in. “It’s interesting to start to see what the business is coming to,” Burch said last week during a preview of the spring collection. “We’re starting to see what makes sense, less is more, and what is working for us.” The collection is not just cute, colorful and branded, although it is definitively all of those things — it’s also become a viable player in terms of performance wear. Yoga and running, particularly the seamless pieces, are doing well, as is golf.
For spring, Burch amped up the color with the Bauhaus principles of form and function in mind, working in fuchsia, red, green, blue and white in graphic stripes and lots of chevron. The clothes she wore to play sports in high school in the Seventies were on her mind, so chevron track jackets and silky soccer jerseys were updated in lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics as opposed to the pure polyester the vintage styles came in. Weatherproof outerwear stood out, as did a few fabulous chunky hand knit cotton sweaters that fell into Tory Sport’s “coming and going” category. There was a new tennis skort and

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Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Rabd Men’s Spring 2019

Name: Rabd
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.

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Memuse RTW Spring 2019

Name: Memuse
Main message: Risa Aizawa evoked a child’s dress-up party with her latest show, seating a group of models in nude undergarments, neutral colored heels and blonde bob wigs on the floor in the center of her runway. Around them walked more models, who wore her fairytale-esque designs. With sweet, girly looks such as tulle or lace dresses covered in bows, frills and ruffles shown alongside more casual, real-world pieces including see-through raincoats and an oversize, gathered T-shirt dress printed with a cartoon character with eyes in her hair, it was like a modern-day “Alice in Wonderland.” Aizawa’s pastel palette and opulent textures, which included velour and jacquard, were contrasted by an out-of-place ankle-length, frilled frock in bright magenta, yellow, orange, blue and green.
The result: Considering her background working in a “maid café” and as a Japanese pop star, it’s not surprising that Aizawa’s design sensibility draws heavily from Tokyo subculture. And while the collection is unlikely to garner a widespread following, it’s sure to appeal to her fans and target audience.

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Shohei RTW Spring 2019

Name: Shohei
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek lived in Japan for two years, designing for a Japanese company. Not only did she meet her Japanese husband during this time, but the experience also shaped her design sensibility. She focuses on unique materials, including both sustainable fabrics and innovative performance textiles “in order to create fashion with a dynamic attitude.” In her debut Tokyo show, she used tech fabrics to craft color-blocked parkas, shorts and tube tops in navy, black, beige and orange. While Pek designs for both genders, the men’s offerings mimicked the designs for women, including jackets with zip-off sleeves and pants that unzipped to create shorts. Asymmetrical cutting and folding techniques added an edge to athleisure-style tube tops and dresses with drawstring details, while shirting fabrics were layered with jersey and other textiles to create deconstructed blouses.
The result: Pek’s European interpretation of Japanese style was an interesting addition to Tokyo Fashion Week, and demonstrated that the designer has potential to succeed both at home and abroad.

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Lautashi RTW Spring 2019

Name: Lautashi
Main message: Model Emi Suzuki launched her brand last year, and quickly gained a following on social media. This season was the first time she participated in Tokyo Fashion Week, thanks to support from Amazon through its At Tokyo program. Rather than a traditional runway show, she chose to do a presentation in collaboration with a new media artist, saying that she wanted attendees to be able to see the detail in her clothes more clearly. Inspired by the night sky, she used zodiac, swirly galaxy and aurora borealis prints, as well as solids in both deep tones and soft, shimmering shades. She chose classic shapes like pencil skirts, wide-leg trousers, camisoles and belted jackets.
The result: The collection had obvious commercial appeal, but Suzuki didn’t take any risks with it and there was a sense that it was missing a certain polish.

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Wewill RTW Spring 2019

Name: Wewill
Main message: Hidetaka Fukuzono blurred gender lines with his spring offering, showing blouse-like tunics, satin pants and loose-fitting jackets in soft white, ivory, olive, khaki and gray. His textiles were also soft and consisted largely of natural materials. But linen suits and jackets with oversize pockets lent a throw-back, safari vibe.
The result: The collection didn’t offer anything new and the styling was uninventive, but the clothes were high quality and utilized some beautiful fabrics.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2019

For the past few seasons, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara have been reinterpreting classic military pieces, and this spring, they drew inspiration from Thirties and Forties coats and pants from American, British and French armed forces. Their show was held in a warehouse near Tokyo Bay, and the simple raw concrete backdrop allowed the clothes to take center stage.
The designers put their own modern take on salvage parkas, chambray shirts, field jackets and pants, flight jackets, motorcycle pants and more. They mixed these with pleated chiffon skirts, sheer mesh dresses, ankle-length knit smocks, denim jackets and cotton dresses. They also showed the third season of their collaboration with The North Face, which included aggressively cropped pullovers, long rain coats, leggings, sweatshirts and T-shirts. While most of the palette centered around neutral shades of khaki, olive, navy, gray, white and black, a few calf-length dresses in red or blue and white stripes provided contrast and added a subtle nod to the nautical.
While the military influences were clear, the collection was still modern and urban, with well-cut silhouettes and quality fabrics, creating the ideal wardrobe for an urban nomad’s commute. And thanks to the pieces by The North Face, it’s also suitable for

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St. John RTW Spring 2019

St. John presented a more streamlined and sleek collection during an intimate cocktail presentation in place of a showroom appointment for spring 2019. The brand felt even more elevated with mostly mannequins dressed in neutrals at the forefront of the floor-to-ceiling walls of the Glass Houses penthouse venue.
“We thought highlighting black, navy and white just sort of synthesized and streamlined it to the silhouette and form — to highlight slacks, jackets, dresses. There’s tons more color as well though,” explained Tom Jarrold, the brand’s senior vice president of marketing, branding and communications.
The silhouettes were light and easy: a long caftan continued from resort was updated in white, but also offered short and in fiery red. Transparencies made for important details in the collection on dresses and blazers. The brand is making due diligence to keep new collections close to its core DNA — continuing long line and tweed jackets, a wide array of “New Standard” basics, and dresses — while maintaining a less embellished, tightly edited and focused approach going forward.

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Ihnn RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ihnn
Main message: South Korean-born, Tokyo-based designer Chisung Ihn made his runway debut outdoors at his alma mater, Bunka Fashion Graduate University. The rain that came down as a drum corps signaled the start and end of the show and only added to the atmosphere.
While intended for women, the collection was partially modeled by males in bright red lipstick, a shade that was mirrored on trenchcoats, bustier tops and open knits. Other colors were equally bold, and textures ranged from sheer organza to thick pleather. Sporty pieces included a striped knit dress, tech leggings, sports bras and a skirt with multiple drawstrings.
The result: While the silhouettes were not new, the designer put his own spin on them through color and texture. But the styling was uninventive and the collection grew repetitive with too many looks.

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Stair RTW Spring 2019

Name: Stair
Main message: Ryoko Mukasa chose a bright, sun-filled venue for her brand’s inaugural runway show, the softly filtered green of the trees through a wall of glass setting the tone for her collection. She showed loose lavender skirts and pantsuits, bright pink and coral-colored gathered satin jumpsuits, and a layered aquamarine chiffon dress. But her strongest looks had a subtle edginess to them, such as an off-the-shoulder blouse in crisp white shirting, with a thin lace underlay at the neckline, or a checked bias-cut skirt paired with a black-and-white open-knit sweater.
The result: There were some strong pieces, but as a whole the collection felt disjointed, as if the designer tried too hard to incorporate too many contrasting elements.

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Miu Miu RTW Spring 2019

Before the start of Miu Miu’s spring show, the room was dark to enhance viewing of close-up video of  models’ faces, their hair pulled back in headbands, one with a bold swipe of red across her eyelids, another with crimson lips, that was projected on white bubble letters spelling out the brand’s logo. It made you wonder if a beauty launch was afoot. In fact, the collection was about “deconstructing beauty,” explained Miuccia Prada after the show. “It’s talking about what’s interesting now — tailoring, glamour, elegance — reworking it and that’s what I did.”
You could take her at her word. The building blocks of a woman’s wardrobe, with the exception of any trace of hyper casual athleticwear, were on Prada’s table, up for reassessment. The question posed seemed to be: How to make it modern? The answer was to be to embrace the look of DIY, recycling, upcycling even if everything is brand new. It was all far from homespun, yet it took Prada’s signature ugly/pretty (but pretty perfect) trope in a different direction with a rare exploration of the messier side of imperfection. Consider the casting: aside from a few big name models, the runway was full of

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Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2019

An earthy majesty defines Sarah Burton’s work for Alexander McQueen. It’s raw, intimate and inspired by Britain’s rich pagan past.
For spring, Burton and her design staff visited several hallowed shrines of British paganism, including Silbury Hill and Avebury Stone Circle, sites where humans left indelible marks on nature, and where now, hundreds of years later, the two forces seem indelibly joined. She came away with a new take on her compelling, long-running heroine. “She’s always pagan, I suppose,” Burton said backstage, “rooted to the ground, rooted to the earth.” She is also typically self-sufficient, determined and powerful in her femininity, yet vulnerable, too, a concept that strikes a deep chord in our fractured world. Often, she projects an archetypal warrior goddess whose strength and gentleness manifest in unison, via, on one hand, strict tailoring, corsetry and harnesses, and on the other, gentle dresses with a look of ancient-world dishabille.
For spring, Burton focused on “a woman’s journey, the moments that she experiences in life, so birth, christening, sisterhood, motherhood, friendship. The idea of expressing feelings and being empowered by emotion and vulnerability.” All while being exquisitely turned out.
Burton is the reverse of the ready-to-wear designers who show during couture; she is

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Nicolas Andreas Taralis RTW Spring 2019

To counter what he sees as the darkness of the times, Nicolas Andreas Taralis moved away from his habitual somber register, injecting his spring collection with lightness and color in a sculptural way.
Rectangular strips of technical fabric were sewn together to evoke parachutes in free fall, moving with the body in transparent strips on column and bustier dresses in white and pale yellow, scarlet and fuchsia; billowing as a pale yellow puff-ball skirt with suspenders, paired with a T-shirt that read “Heroes” — in reference to David Bowie.
Tailored pieces like a dark green nylon satin suit and a black cotton jacket were crafted from panels of fabric, leaving gashes in which the wind would rustle.
Laser-cut foliage from a military register created texture on a unisex black coat intended to evoke a shell that protects the body, a motif reprised elsewhere on a white tailored jacket, its lining showing through, and on T-shirts and shift dresses. Elsewhere, Taralis delivered a more overt political message with printed slogans like “surrender” and “disobey” on bright Japanese sports mesh vests and photo prints of protests on his jersey T-shirts, adding a touch of street to what was an interesting, quirky lineup.

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Ximon Lee Spring RTW 2019

The designer in the gender-fluid, handiwork-intensive collection explored the concept of the east interpreted through a western filter. In particular, he looked to the creations of an American carpet manufacturer from the Thirties “who copied Chinese rugs.”
The designer challenged himself in the handiwork-intensive, textured collection, working with a weird palette of hues including deep purple, pistachio and mint that was outside of his comfort zone. The show set — a dingy garage with industrial lights and a wet floor sprinkled with eucalyptus oil — was equally strange.
A glitched jacquard suit in a carpet motif had a “foggy” aspect to it. Elsewhere, an eye-catching mesh dress came needle-punched with yellow silk thread, playing on the idea of forcing organic fibers into synthetic fibers.
The showpiece was an elaborate black and silver sequined robe dress, produced by hand in a workshop in Shanghai, bearing the face of an imaginary avatar.
A matching shirt and pant in a liquid mesh bonded with suiting fabric to create a wet-look effect, which was at once structured and light with an iridescence, offered the most compelling and wearable spin on the appearance-versus-reality theme.

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Dušan RTW Spring 2019

Understated luxury is the code word for Dusan Paunovic’s collection, constructed from high-end fabrics that are the building blocks for his cathedral of minimalism. For spring, the Serbian-born designer worked in a muted color palette of neutrals, working a raw-edged beige and cream herringbone linen, for example, into an elegant yet relaxed spaghetti-strap dress.
Superlight cashmere and silk knits, wide-legged linen culottes and Japanese hand-pressed lamé skirts, all staples in the Dušan vocabulary, were the backbone of the lineup. The outerwear was also strong, as demonstrated with a camel Loro Piana water-repellent cashmere coat with lining and contrasting Mao collar in white neoprene.
His patchworks of supersoft silk scarf prints in a palette of navy, forest green and dusty pink, used on flowing pants and sleeveless tops with a simple tie at the back of the neck, worked a treat.

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A.P.C. RTW Spring 2019

Jean and Judith Touitou took another step this season and moved outside the label’s intimate Rue Madame headquarters to show their coed lineup. They headed to a cavernous garage, emptied of cars and outfitted with roving spotlights that announced the start of the show.
The first look set the upbeat, rockabilly tone. Down the concrete car ramp came a sleek, jeans pants-and-shirt ensemble in dark blue with white stitching, a charming Elvis coiffe and pointy white boots, keys jangling from the belt. The bright blue bandana tightly wrapped around the model’s neck allowed a peek of the bright yellow T-shirt underneath.
It’s increasingly a question of survival-of-the-fittest in apparel these days and, not one to be left behind, the label is hankering after growth.
With their spring collection, the couple nudged their specific breed of easy and wearable elegance into younger territory, with their offer of jeans, colorful sweaters, smart outerwear and belt bags stamped with an A, a P or a C.
Dresses were cut sensibly, continuing in the same register as last season — non fussy, elegant and #metoo age-appropriate. These included a checked trenchcoat dress and several prairie dresses. The label’s emphasis on outerwear was expanded to include brighter colors, and

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Ioannes Spring 2019 RTW

Johannes Boehl Cronau showed his spring collection on the ground floor of Lafayette Anticipations, where models mingled on a floor strewn with pink slips of paper, wearing opened-toed mules. He continued to expose midriffs, using thinly knit bra tops this time, which he paired with cycling shorts in the same material.
The designer has a sharp focus, training his efforts on a select assortment of silhouettes that emphasize his eye for detail; he said he hoped the collection would mark a “really good start for what we’re trying to do.”
Drawing influences from carpentry from his childhood in Germany, he made a luxurious version of a tool belt, one in shiny black leather, another one in gray, which he used to complete an all-gray look. The trousers were both refined and easy, with two short zippers running vertically on the front, matched with a knit bra top.
Black nylon trousers with zips and a few flaps turned out to be an opened-up boiler suit, which was worn with a lightly knit tank top. He used the same knit for an elongated dress that had loops hanging off of the bottom, like mini arm straps.
He slightly enlarged fisherman’s hats, which came in somber hues

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Anaïs Jourden RTW Spring 2019

Anaïs Mak captured the coming-of-age vibe she was after. Tucked into plush sofas ringing the runway, guests waited under the dimmed red lights of the club’s low ceilings, the carpet’s skull-and-flower pattern barely discernible.
But when the lights snapped on and the sentimental saxophone riff streamed out — George Michael’s “Careless Whisper,” what else? — the audience was thrust into her bedroom, or wherever she had a full-length mirror, some privacy and a closet stuffed with possibilities.
“I think the girl is exploring maturing,” said Mak, the Hong Kong-born and -based designer whose label is called Anaïs Jourden. “You see a slight ‘Lolita’ influence in the collection,” she added.
The models wore mostly dresses, occasionally with a trail of ruffles, often in a bias cut and strapless at times — one had lacing between the breasts. Wearing stiletto Barbie heels — patent leather with a puff of fake fur, no straps to secure an ankle — some teetered, while others strutted confidently, hair tied up in a tussled ponytail.
“We used to rely heavily on textures and volume,” said Mak, noting the aim was ease and fluidity this time. Speaking before the show, she pointed to a pencil-shaped dress made from cotton treated for

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Anton Belinskiy RTW Spring 2019

Ukrainian designer Anton Belinskiy’s first fashion show had religious airs. Incense burned on the steps inside the Palais de Tokyo, while some models sported wimples.
Belinskiy explored the concept of belief, whether religious or just as a way of giving meaning to life. He relied on the imagery of the Orthodox Church, in reference to his mother’s faith and his own trips to the local church in Kiev. Religious nods were given a pop-culture spin: tiny icons were printed on simple cotton T-shirts, while a rainbow-hued circular icon was depicted on a pink beaded crop top.
Models, both male and female, carried big sports bags. “When people retreat into religion, they pack up all their belongings and disappear,” explained the designer, who founded his brand in 2009. Film stills from “Adam and Eve” were printed on leggings, skirts and trousers. Some models wore seashell necklaces, other carried ceramic donation baskets.
The show was fast-paced and youthful, but the looks were a bit all over the place. An orange shiny jumpsuit was followed by a denim leotard worn with colorful leggings, then a Hawaiian shirt, finally a black deconstructed bustier dress. Despite this, the whole offering was energetic and exciting. The finalist for the

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Pihakapi RTW Spring 2019

Canadian designer Vejas Kruszewski, who won the LVMH Prix Spécial prize in 2016, chose to put his namesake brand on hold to focus on a new project. Now in its second season, Pihakapi, a brand developed in partnership with Italian leather manufacturer Pellemoda, blends high-quality leather with the 21-year-old-designer’s radical vision.
“Because the brand is leather-focused, I like to build the collection around the outerwear,” said Kruszewski at the presentation of his spring collection (the first offering was shown during men’s fashion week, Pihakapi being a unisex brand.)
A black leather trenchcoat featured details from this season’s key inspirations: mini leather horns recalling the anatomy of the stag beetle on the sleeves and a flame shaped cowboy collar. The same details were reworked on denim and jersey, as well as on a side-slit black slipdress, a welcome update to the wardrobe staple.
“I was really interested in reworking Western wear,” said the designer, gesturing to a white linen skirt with a black leather holster detail. He also created a pair of “refined chaps,” playing on the dichotomy between leather and fabric. The chocolate-colored leather added texture and serious flair to a pair of well-cut black trousers. Throwing in a couple of Grecian draped

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Kolor RTW Spring 2019

A campaign video filmed in Hollywood and a tacky karaoke bar on the outskirts of Tokyo served as the perfect backdrop for this fun, crafty collection, with the models sped up and slowed down.
The signature inventiveness of Junichi Abe, an experienced patternmaker, was in fine form with offbeat touches like an accumulation of fabric textures on a skirt, the haphazard embroidery on lace collars of sweaters, and lines of tape used to join layers to garments — including a red tulle layer on a black T-shirt — or rework volumes, giving a DIY spin.
A series of triple-layered hi-tech anoraks mixing colors and materials to create depth were terrific. More cute in mood were the colored marled knits with contrast lace accents.
The designer also revisited traditional checks in polyester on neo-geek shirts, with oversized shapes used throughout the collection.

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Inès de la Fressange RTW Spring 2019

The collection, presented in a salon at the Ritz Paris, was strangely wrinkled. Not to worry — it was all part of Inès de la Fressange’s vision of Parisian chic. “People are scared of linen and see it as a difficult fabric,” said the designer. “But I wanted to show that things needn’t be perfectly ironed. It gives the feeling that you’re still on holiday.”
Nevertheless the effect was scruffy, and diverted the attention from the stronger points of the collection. There was a pair of “new denim” straight leg trousers in dark blue linen, created in reaction to the Parisian heat wave; a cowboy style red shirt — “because you can look Parisian wearing a shirt from Texas” — and an elegant two-piece beige checked suit, that de la Fressange herself was wearing.
Masculine-inspired tailoring was as efficient as always, but the designer seemed tired of churning out the same old “Parisienne” ideal. “People always think that chic has to be conventional, when there isn’t necessarily a link between the two things,” she said. “I’m bored with conventionalism.”
In reaction to that, the collection went full Seventies, with colorful printed silk shirts and flared trousers. The whole offering seemed to miss the

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2019

Should fashion be political?
It’s a question that has consumed editors in a week dominated by the U.S. Senate Judiciary Committee’s hearing into sexual assault allegations against Supreme Court nominee Brett Kavanaugh. For better or for worse, in the era of #MeToo, a hemline is no longer just a hemline.
While some designers have shrugged off feminist readings of their collections, and others appeared to deliberately court controversy, Nicolas Ghesquière embraced the moment with his lineup of retro-futuristic clothes, shown in a maze of neon-lit tunnels set up in the courtyard of the Louvre Museum after dark.
“This is not a narrative collection. This is about my obsession to empower women,” he said after the show. “There were so many discussions the last months about the place of women, and I thought that this is really an intuition to want to give power when you are a designer.”
He did that by tapping into a few of his other obsessions: sci-fi imagery and exaggerated volumes. Dominican model Ambar Cristal Zarzuela, making her Paris debut, opened the show in an oversized blouson with millefeuille sleeves featuring photo prints of candy-colored artificial landscapes.
The sleeves were the connective tissue between his eclectic band of intergalactic explorers. They

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Chanel RTW Spring 2019

Excuse the clichéd lede, but at Chanel, life’s a beach. Not a shark-attack beach or a misogynist beach, but a serene, inviting blue-sky beach, with real water undulating into and away from the pristine sand.
Inspired by the shores of Sylt, the German island Karl Lagerfeld frequented as a child, the Chanel waterfront was gloriously peaceful. (Not to mention well-tended, another astonishing display of Chanel execution and Wertheimer largess created inside the Grand Palais.) You could close you eyes and let the sounds of the gently rushing water transport you anywhere your mind felt like wandering. That is, if you got there early. But then the revelers showed up — Pharrell Williams, Vanessa Paradis and Pamela Anderson (Sylt, Schmylt. Bring on the “Baywatch” nostalgia.)
They shook off the sand and settled into their boardwalk-bench seats in time for a rollicking beach romp. Lagerfeld is brilliant at presenting the Chanel oeuvre in a different light season after season, with mood changes from refined to cool to bourgeois, while altering the intensity of the house iconography (at least all markers save for those essential jackets), sometimes lightening up on buttons, camellias, double-Cs, even handbags. Not here. This was a flamboyant merch fest – unabashed, shameless, and wonderfully so.

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Sacai RTW Spring 2019

Chitose Abe does what she does and she does it incredibly well. The colors, the patterns, the references change from season to season but the template remains the same — hybrid dressing. She makes it look easy. She makes it wearable. Keeping it current is a matter of her impeccable taste and exacting eye.
For spring, she cast her gaze on crisp white cottons, tuxedo shirts, fisherman jackets, florescent colors, trenchcoat khaki, denim, madras, polo shirts and painterly collages. That’s a lot of ground to cover and material blend without making a mess. Abe has pared down from her earlier collections. The volumes are more controlled, the number of garments fused together limited so a woman can break out a piece and work it into her wardrobe without fear of looking like a clown.
To list off all the looks in the spring lineup would be exhausting. The whites were worn with white. Trenches were fused with denim jackets. Polos merged into the painterly. It all made sense, if it didn’t warrant much in terms of critical assessment. It is what it is. It’s very good. How will it advance? It very well might not.

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Véronique Leroy RTW Spring 2019

Véronique Leroy built on her recent foray into denim with a range of great bi-colored styles worked in contrasting strips, combining the different sides of the fabric, and edged with raw seams. Topstitching was another leitmotif of the collection. She also introduced two T-shirt styles for the first time in her career, with draped sleeves, and an embroidered logo.
Outwear included a cropped printed raincoat in a strange shade of green, and an off-white nylon coat.
“There’s always something a bit off, a bit borderline good-taste-bad-taste,” said the designer, gesturing to a sleeveless dress and fluid trench in a brown check “a bit like a tablecloth.”
Other highlights included long dresses in a sheer silk crepe with contrast seams, loose-gauge knits, and a selection of pieces in cotton lace that read beach.

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Françoise RTW Spring 2019

Johanna Senyk got off to a nice start with her new solo act, with a concise, Seventies-inspired dress-centric collection that, with its nicely dosed mix of old school-cool, humor and femininity, is bound to win over the hearts of young Parisians and beyond.
The linen on a long black dress with spaghetti straps and yellow stripes at the hem had a nice weight to it. More ebullient in attitude was a one-shoulder ruffled floral lamé top for summer night drinks on a terrasse.
The textures and fabric combinations were pleasing, like the white summer dress with a smocked panel on the body, or a patchwork dress made by hand from deadstock fabrics that had a charming retro innocence to it. Other highlights included a sweet white and red sailor dress with a plunging V-neck and puffy sleeves.
The designer also presented a line of bags, including the bestselling Françoise handbag with tassels, inspired by Jane Fonda in “Klute.”
The flared pantsuits in retro tones like rust and a Seventies buttercup added to the tongue-in-cheek, free-spirited mood of the collection that should manage to stand out in a crowded market.

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Faith Connexion RTW Spring 2019

Nikola Vasari is flexing his creative muscles as Faith Connexion moves into a new era – pared back, but no less streetwise. Named creative director — the collaborative label’s first — earlier this month, Vasari presented a spring collection created under his supervision inspired by an “imaginary trip to Rajasthan.”
Remember when The Beatles traveled to India and embraced yoga in the late Sixties? This was very much what the collection evoked — glammed-up military references, pretty flower-power dresses in crêpe de chine, oriental embroideries on super-wide flares, pink lurex a-go-go and fil coupé jacquard tailoring were all part of the mix. These were brought into the 21st century and the Faith Connexion vernacular with items like an outsize sleeveless jean jacket bleached with Sanskrit lettering or distressed denim designs whose holes were filled with sequins. Smart yet edgy standouts in the lineup included a gold-buttoned utilitarian skirt in navy with a detachable fishtail hem.

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Atlein RTW Spring 2019

Antonin Tron was thinking about utopia, “you know, living differently,” he said before his spring show. “I guess it’s on a lot of people’s minds right now, how you cope with a new world.” It was the kind of thought that can easily get lost in translation in the collection, but Tron’s spring lineup was a blissful breeze of clothes that were not overthought, overdone or overly complicated in any way. They weren’t boring either. That’s the fashion promised land.
When Tron launched the collection two and a half years ago, it was all about draped jersey made modern in understated cool-girl pieces. Tron has developed his language to include tailoring, knits, prints and printed silk georgette, which was new this season. The show opened with fresh optic white and a dash of muted yellow on a sporty, one-sleeved T-shirt and white pants and a draped tank dress with winding seams that traced the curves of the body. From there, Tron flexed his keen sense of color and pattern, working with mixes of graphic, vaguely tribal patterns and plaids gleaned from frequent trips to Africa, India and Indonesia. Sometimes he mixed prints by layering two dresses or a dress and T-shirt.

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Victoria/Tomas RTW Spring 2019

The courtyard of the Faculté de Médecine was covered with a bright yellow carpet, an echo to the upbeat mood the Victoria/Tomas spring collection was created in. “We wanted this collection to be positive,” said designers Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins backstage. “We were in a good mood all the way through designing it.”
To the sound of French band Minuit performing their track “Paris Tropical,” models sauntered around the courtyard wearing a mix of urban pieces, such as structured cargo jackets, cropped hoodies and high-collared shirtdresses with holiday looks.
“Last summer, there was a heat wave in Paris,” said Feldman. “We were sitting at a terrace, drinking rosé and dreaming about going on holiday. Like most Parisians.” As a result, the pair stuck to a bright color palette — a stand-out piece being a silver lamé minidress — with romantic ruffles, graphic stripes and tassel details on skirts and jackets.
The brand collaborated with Italian designer Nico Giani on a line of 12 bags, including a canary yellow fanny pack. Additionally, sporty underwear was created in collaboration with French lingerie brand Maison Chantelle, using their Soft Stretch material. Victoria/Tomas also introduced a new shoe style, open-toed lace-up ankle boots.
Jewelry was particularly innovative:

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Afterhomework RTW Spring 2019

For Afterhomework’s first show on the official Paris schedule, design duo Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola reached out to accessories designer Isaac Reina to create the boxy leather bags that peppered the models’ looks.
“He works with Raf Simons for Calvin Klein,” Kaczmarek said backstage, visibly excited. “It was important to us to work with people like him, because we need their support and experience to grow. We’ve never been to fashion school.”
Billing themselves as the youngest designers on the fashion calendar, the duo presented grown-up versions of previous offerings in black, white and blue. Off-the-shoulder deconstructed shirts were paired with teeny skirts or stretch joggers; overalls were delivered in a wide-leg version, and ruched sleeves were added to a spaghetti-strap dress.
A pop of color was added by a red “Afterhomework Polo Club” sweater, an obvious nod to similar Ralph Lauren styles. An AHP logo was also spotted on a black towel thrown over shoulders, mimicking the font of the Calvin Klein logo.

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Manuel Facchini RTW Spring 2019

Manuel Facchini’s signature gothic and rock ‘n’ roll vibes took on a military feel for spring. The traditional epaulettes of army jackets, which got a glamorous makeover via sparkling accents, decorated a long wrap dress, an asymmetric jacket with cutouts on the sleeves, as well as a shirtdress/bomber jacket hybrid.
While the skin-tight leather pants and the biker jackets interwoven with vinyl felt a bit rigid, embroidered dresses with ergonomic cuts and sheer inserts offered a more wearable version of the brand’s futuristic femininity.

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Laura Biagiotti RTW Spring 2019

Lavinia Biagiotti is mapping out the future for the company she inherited from her mother Laura, and she said she wants it to be “joyful and full of energy.” To that end, her spring collection was a colorful ode to Futurism, her family’s passion, as she defined it. The Biagiotti Foundation owns more than 250 Futuristic works and is among the most prestigious collections dedicated to Giacomo Balla. Lavinia Biagiotti reworked details from such masterpieces into patterns on miniskirts, light gauze dresses with ruffles and silk tops. She played with brightly colored stripes, combining them in graphic patterns and juxtaposed with more subtle checks. Balla designs were also reproduced on a simple T-shirt worn casually over masculine baggy pants or on Biagiotti’s bucket bag – as well as on the stage of the Piccolo Teatro, where the brand has been showing for the past 25 years. To further support the storied venue, the designer set up a corner at the entrance where accessories and a pullover from the spring season could be purchased on the spot so that proceeds from the sale would benefit the theater.
The brand’s iconic white knits and dresses were not missing from the lineup and also

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Gabriele Colangelo RTW Spring 2019

Gabriele Colangelo’s spring collection was like a cold drink of water on a very hot day – and not just because the weather in Milan has been at high summer temps all week. His colors were coolly vivid, a mix of optic white, indigo, orange, ice blue, jade and khaki, and his lines were an update on clean, Nineties utilitarianism with a slight techno accent.
White shirts, jackets and slips were treated with artful indigo tie-dye, one of the season’s big trends, here done with colors that looked fresh and intense with each other. Sheer slips were layered over pants and plaid shirts for a neo grunge effect, and tailoring came with structured pleats and contrast-stitched seaming that struck a note of crafty industrial rawness.
 

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Emilio Pucci RTW Spring 2019

Bet you thought the prints at Pucci were something fished from the archive, maybe circa ’67 or ’72. Wrong. They were all spanking new. Not a single reissue for spring 2019, though clearly the historical influence was there. This was to indicate that the house is focusing on the future, as was the unisex collection it released earlier this year, under which the clothes modeled by men fell as well.
To further summon a youthful spirit, the creative team envisioned the presentation as a Carribean Pucci villa, populated by models dancing to reggae beats in a collection of tropical colors and easy fits. There were tank and shirtdresses cut with sprays of pleated and printed swatches. Loose, long shirts were worn open over bright, cropped pants and simple cocktail dresses were embroidered over prints. The throwback Pucci glamour remained intact, but there was a kitschy ease that might appeal to a new generation.

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Cristina Ottaviano RTW Spring 2019

During the first week of June, eveningwear designer Cristina Ottaviano took a trip to Lake Como, which resulted in a fluid, water-inspired spring collection. The designer’s mills are also based in the region, giving her the opportunity to go into them and design the pieces while she was there, which she described as “phenomenal.” The result included abstract interpretations — an off-the-shoulder gown with a printed sequin and stretch tulle base and bustier that mimicked the texture and feel of water or a strapless white gown with gold herringbone bugle cascading across the bust and down the dress. All of the looks were refined and elegant, with pops of surprise and fun, like a light pink suit set, strapless gold minidress or a divine white column dress with a silver top. Next up for Ottaviano: her second bridal collection in October.

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Aspesi RTW Spring 2019

Aspesi is known for its easy-chic outerwear, flattering cotton and silk shirts, well-cut trousers and fresh summery shirtdresses. But in keeping with the Milan-based company’s new goal to reach a wider audience worldwide, Aspesi unveiled a spring wardrobe focused on a more elegant look. Even if the brand’s daywear staples were still there — think linen blazers layered over cotton printed with chic graphic patterns, lightweight trenchcoats and colorful boxy sleeveless tops worn with fluid maxi skirts — the lineup offered its particular take on eveningwear.
This is Aspesi, so there was no bling-bling, no flamboyant decoration or any kind of extravaganza. A group of minimal dresses in bright tones of red, hot pink, purple and yellow were impeccable. A bustier style was embellished with a tiny belt at the waist, a fluid halter-neck design showed crisscross details at the back and a cotton poplin T-shirt frock had a feminine V-neck. A textured brocade fabric was crafted for a sophisticated jacket and trousers matched with a featherweight blouse with a Chinese collar and an allover tone-on-tone beaded pattern.
The collection achieved Aspesi’s aim, moving the brand forward with quintessentially feminine style while not losing its signature discreet Milanese elegance.

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Brooks Brothers RTW Spring 2019

Creative Director Zac Posen delivered a garden party brimming with a youthful take on corporate attire inspired in part by images of Jacqueline de Ribes in the garden.
He introduced a cheeky cherry print, which was cut into a playful pleated skirt and embroidered onto a little T, and undercut the collection with a fresh vintage ease. Pink tweed suiting was enlivened with fluorescent orange specks, while a prim-cut blazer came in a sweet pastel orange. A floral jacquard jacket-and-skirt set harked to the fashion sensibility that could be seen in his namesake secondary line.
The storied brand has been able to draw in younger customers with updates to wardrobe staples that have a modern, easy approach to sophistication. Shirt dressing has been key, and was cut this season with a navy porcelain print and an orange style with a playful wrap belt. No item balanced modish feminine flair with a transitional day-to-evening quality more than a flirty color-blocked dress in blush, ivory and lime.
Posen made sure to offer loyal customers approachable elegance with classic seersucker in driftwood brown, suiting styled with casual striped Ts and stretchy graphic jacquards. For the new professional woman, look no further for a blend of leisure,

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Jenny Packham RTW Spring 2019

After showing in New York for nearly a decade, Jenny Packham came home to London to celebrate her 30 years in business. She staged two presentations at her Mount Street flagship, one for press on Sunday and a separate one for customers — and the public — was planned for Monday.
A celebrity and royal favorite with a flourishing evening, cocktail and bridal business, Packham took Jean Harlow as her inspiration for spring, conjuring a collection with lots of old Tinseltown glamour, inspired by the alluring — and hard-living — actress and Thirties Hollywood star.
“It was time to bring Jean out,” said Packham, who said her interest in Harlow was piqued when she was in Hollywood a few years ago, looking at Marilyn Monroe memorabilia. While the looks she showed on Sunday were beaded and sequined and adorned with Swarovski crystals, she said she wanted to do them all with a light touch.
The old-world glam quotient was high: A version of the silver sequin-paved wrap-front gown has already sold out on Net-a-porter, while a long, midnight blue hand-beaded dress had a plunging V neck.
At the same time, there was always a modern yet demure feel to the clothes. A frothy dress

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Gareth Pugh RTW Spring 2019

Gareth Pugh, one of London’s most celebrated provocateurs, staged his spring 2019 show as an ode to his hometown and to “outsider society.”
Set in a dimly lit space of the Old Selfridges hotel and to the blasting sounds of industrial music, Pugh revisited some of his signatures, to deliver a powerful, high-voltage spectacle.
The show opened with a cry in the dark — Freddie Mercury singing “Why can’t we gives ourselves one more chance” — which made everyone’s hair stand on end. It was followed by a parade of models who stomped down the runway, strutting their stuff in punk, high platform boots that made them look like otherworldly creatures.
The clothes inspired the same punchy attitude. There was a strong focus on tailoring with an array of blazers and tuxedo dresses featuring big shoulders and spliced sleeves, while other signatures like funnel necks and sharp, voluminous trench coats in metallic leather were also peppered throughout the range.
Pugh also brought back a graphic red and orange star print — splashed all over coats and bodysuits — that was first introduced in his graduate collection.
It was a fierce, riotous collection that was reminiscent of a time when fashion was more about a purist,

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Watch the Delpozo Spring 2019 London Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Delpozo Spring/Summer 2019 London Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Sunday, September 16 at 9:00 a.m. EDT.
 

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Xiao Li RTW Spring 2019

“I wanted to create a strong holiday feeling with this collection because to be honest, everyone around me had a holiday in August and I’m quite jealous! I missed mine,” the designer Xiao Li told WWD after the show.
For Li’s holiday wardrobe, stripes reigned supreme, as well as delicate ginghams, bold oversized holographic hats and whisper-weight silk pieces embellished with ice blue crystals.
Wide summer stripes in baby blue, pink and yellow opened the show on a series of boxy jackets with ruff detailing and matching skirts, followed by macs paired with tulle socks and white platform sandals, and pullovers worn over hooded swimsuits. Delicate drop-waisted gingham dresses were subverted with belted leather harnesses featuring structured ruffles that sat atop shoulders, while sleeveless iridescent macs were nipped with contrasting belts with exaggerated buckles.
This season, Li developed a fabric inspired by bubble wrap made using silk that was cleverly transformed into full-cut trousers, delicate fishermen’s vests teamed with flouncy skirts, and a lustrous tiered hem dress that closed the show.

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Versus RTW Spring 2019

“Gianni gave Donatella Versus 1989” was the iconic print of the Versus spring collection, which marks the 30th anniversary of the brand to be celebrated next year. The lineup was unveiled with one-on-one appointments at the brand’s showroom in Milan.
The lettering came printed on a range of easy-to-wear, street-focused pieces, which embodied the urban, young and fun spirit of the brand. T-shirts, dresses with side slits, hoodies, mini pleated skirts, anoraks and jeans created an iconic, bold wardrobe for frisky, cool city boys and girls.
Vintage prints were revamped with a contemporary twist. A hand-painted feel gave an artsy, creative touch to the lettering inspired by Gianni Versace’s Vanitas Designs book. The motif was splashed on camp shirts, leggings, sweatshirts and skirts with nylon waistbands, while a logo with Gianni Versace’s authentic signature pops up on off-the-shoulder cropped tops and sleeveless hoodies.
Multicolor logo patches in a fresh palette of aqua green and neon pink punctuated the sharp-cut indigo denim pants, jackets and mini skirts, as well as the eye-catching nylon parkas and windbreakers.
Drawstring details, net and retro sporty graphics also introduced a touch of athleticism in the colorblocked dresses, tops and track suits, which epitomized the highly energetic, dynamic soul of the

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Lou Dallas Water Bow RTW Spring 2019

As guests filled in to St. Mark’s Church-in-the-Bowery for designer Raffaella Hanley’s spring Lou Dallas show there was a faint sound of someone clearing their throat playing over the loudspeaker. The sound got louder as the downtown crowd settled in and a ballerina began dancing on a stage of the church.
The sound, it turns out, was part of a piece by James K, in collaboration with Hanley, meant to explore how the mouth works and was a recording of people chewing gum. It got louder and louder as a tribe of models, each blowing gum bubbles came down the runway.
The whole thing played to Hanley’s collection of “do-it-yourself” pieces, which she called “Water Bow,” and was inspired by the idea of wading into the South Street Seaport. The thrashed looking silhouettes had a mix iridescent ruffles with sea colors. Repurposed pieces like biker shorts and knit body suits added to the sea vibe. Hanley again embellished pieces with the phrase “Think Otherwise,” her tongue and check take on a statement top. There was a lot going on but some interesting shapes and homespun craftsmanship to see.

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Vaquera RTW Spring 2019

Vaquera’s spring show was like a fun little pop quiz that the whole class already knew all the answers to — no head-scratchers here. Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully showed at P.S. 42 Benjamin Altman on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, the runway winding through cafeteria tables littered with bubblegum, spilled Coke cans and wadded-up loose leaf paper. The “Harry Potter” theme song set up a procession of high-school stereotypes — jocks, sluts, cheerleaders, goths — that twisted through the Vaquera looking glass so that freaks and geeks ruled the school. Is subversion still subversive when the concept has gone so mainstream?
The prom king wore pumps with a literal sweatsuit, a tux made from gray fleece. The cheerleader looked like she had spent the night at a rager in her bra top and tattered mini dress. Football pads were reimagined as a cute denim harness; your little brother’s sports bedsheets were transformed into a voluminous gown, and those finicky Scantrons became a print on a pair of pants.
A footnote on Vaquera’s shownotes defined the label as “a unisex clothing line that redefines luxury fashion through narrative-based collections.” The story they were telling was clear, though it stands to note

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Watch the Michael Kors Spring 2019 New York Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2019 New York Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Monday, September 11 at 10:00 a.m. EDT.

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Zero + Maria Cornejo RTW Spring 2019

“It’s all about strong women,” said Maria Cornejo backstage at her spring runway show. Her inspiration was epitomized in the collection by a print reproducing a work by Chilean artist Gracia Barrios, an abstract pattern consisting of sketched faces of extraordinary international female personalities. The motif was printed, for example, on a fresh cotton top worn with a draped skirt crafted from organic denim, as well as on a maxishirt paired with relaxed cropped pants.
In keeping with her quintessentially chic aesthetic, the designer delivered a beautiful collection where an unfussy urban mood was warmed up by Cornejo’s Latin sensibility, expressed particularly in the color palette of earthy, neutral tones juxtaposed with bright shades of coral red and vivid blue.
By choosing an inclusive casting of women of different ages, Cornejo wanted to highlight the timeless spirit of the collection, one designed to transcend seasonal trends and provide longevity and continuity among generations. While the oversized striped suit that opened the show and a sharp-cut denim jacket worn with matching pants looked more rigorous and infused with a certain mannish feel, the frocks and tops with plunging necks and the satin long dresses and revisited pajama sets revealed the very feminine side

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Rosetta Getty RTW Spring 2019

Rosetta Getty homed in on the work of artist Liz Flynn, who works in many mediums, but whose pottery struck Getty after a studio visit. Getty imbued her spring collection with the colors of Flynn’s ceramic glazes and clays: red, lemon yellow, pool green, bisque and gray. The palette and soft silhouettes — long and languid with hemlines that gently pooled at the feet — coalesced for a serene, organic minimalism. Getty pointed out some bias cuts and spiral details, specifically evening dresses with corkscrew knit fringe, that represented sculptural ease and the quiet hardware details, such as silver zippers, that mark a very subtle branding push for her.

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Watch the Carolina Herrera Spring 2019 New York Fashion Week Show Live on WWD

Watch the Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2019 New York Fashion Week Show live on WWD on Monday, September 10 at 10:00 a.m. EDT.

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Longchamp RTW Spring 2019

Anita Pallenberg and Veruschka were name-checked by Longchamp’s Sophie Delafontaine when speaking backstage about what inspired her for spring. She said she was trying to channel a woman who was “elegant and chic, but had a twist of eccentricity.”
This translated to a lineup with a palette of cobalt blue, chocolate brown and clay reds shown in a mix of layered dresses, tunics and vests. Delafontaine diluted the rich tones with several pieces in a leopard print and some semisheer maxidresses in a bright ikat.
She highlighted the French house’s history of leather craftsmanship with leather details that popped up throughout the collection. Delafontaine homed in on iconic Sixties pieces like fringed halter tops and dresses and suede shorts, pairing many looks with a thigh-high gladiator sandal, many of which were also embellished with fringe.
Handbags are synonymous with the privately owned house; Delafontaine updated her cross-body Amazone bag, introduced in fall; on the runway, it was reimagined in a variety of iterations, some with earth stone details with lambskin, a few with fur and of course, more fringe. The fringe was heavy-handed and could have been dialed back some, as nearly every look had some sort of fringe accent.
The show was a

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John Elliott Men’s and Women’s Spring 2019

John Elliott brought a healthy dose of California to New York City for his spring show, taking over a skate park on the Hudson River to drive home the inspiration for the season: Los Angeles. With the 90-plus-degree heat and blazing sun, it was L.A. at its most extreme.
The designer did his best to make attendees comfortable on their colorful milk-crate seats by providing cold water or juice and portable fans. But most faces were shiny with sweat by the time his celebrity guests arrived: LeBron James and Justin Bieber, the latter arriving hand-in-hand with fiancée Hailey Baldwin and grooving to the soundtrack.
Elliott considered his hometown “the most authoritative story” he could tell this season. “Not the stereotypical, glitzy, Hollywood L.A.,” he noted, “but the real neighborhoods — that’s my truth.”
It shone through in its casual vibe and the seamless blend of streetwear and athletic references. Elliott also showed a new maturity by offering up a blend of technical materials and varying silhouettes that took inspiration from different eras to create a never-ending youthful vibe.
His L.A. inspiration was obvious in the slightly oversize shorts and jackets that he emblazoned with a colorful bougainvillea print — a bit out of character

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New York Spring 2019 Designer Inspirations: Part Two

In part two of WWD’s New York Fashion Week pre-show coverage for spring 2019, travel continues to serve as inspirational fodder.
Michael Kors Collection will dream up a “global utopia”; Christian Siriano was inspired by “the perfect dream holiday vacation in Hawaii,” while Mark Badgley and James Mischka are celebrating 30 years in business “through the looking glass.”
Grittier influences include Stacey Bendet’s “Passport to Wonderland” for Alice + Olivia, Veronica Beard’s interpretation of “hot nights in the urban jungle,” and Sally LaPointe’s “sci-fi Western.”
Click through the gallery for more clues into what’s to come this week from Anna Sui, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Prabal Gurung and more.

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Land of Distraction RTW Spring 2019

“She’s in L.A. now, still in the Seventies; she’s become a bit of a groupie with the rock stars, so she’s taking some of their wardrobe and you’re going to see some sparkle,” is how Christian Juul Nielsen, Land of Distraction’s creative director, described the label’s Collection 4. Over the past three seasons, he and executive creative director Danita Short have designed a fresh, modern take on the Seventies-meets-tough-girl aesthetic. For their latest array, they added hints of glamour, in the form of shine for day: Lurex knits such as a striped tank dress and ruffled pussy-bow blouses; a paillette-covered boxy sweater vest with striped varsity collar and a really fun snakeskin laminated cotton twill cropped pant and matching jacket. The duo also expanded into a few cocktail options; a disco-ball-inspired paillette and micro-sequin covered dress made the best case.
New for the brand were men’s wear-inspired wide-cut shorts and two really great shirtdresses — one striped with wide cuffs, another in crisp white with short ruffled sleeves. Shimmery rock-inspired tops and “El Lay” slogan sweaters layered well with the brand’s evolved utilitarian staples and wallpaper printed florals. Next up for the duo? Nielsen has just been named creative director of Hervé Léger, and

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Zac Posen Presents Spring — With a Little Help From Friends

Like lots of designers, Zac Posen wears many hats. In fact, he says it shakes out to 16 collections a year. He designs for Brooks Brothers; recently updated the uniforms at Delta Air Lines; released a cookbook; judges on “Project Runway,” and released a documentary. But it was his namesake label that started it all.
To present that collection for spring 2019, Posen is once again forgoing a traditional runway show — something he has done for several seasons — in favor of images and a film. The difference this season is that the film has a more narrative- and character-driven feeling. Gia Coppola shot the piece, with Maya Hawke as muse. To Posen, Hawke was more than just a subject — both she and Coppola are close personal friends, and Hawke, who was looped in and confirmed while he was still designing the collection, helped to influence his designs for the season. So spring 2019 was a family affair.
“The original Zac girl is a creative free spirit. When I think of my early muses, this collection has almost come full circle to that idea. It’s not grande dame, or overt glamour, there is a new side to it,” he says

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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