Ermenegildo Zegna is not afraid of taking on complicated subjects, whether that’s conservation, sustainability or education. And now, the 109-year-old company has turned its attention to defining modern masculinity. On Thursday night, the Italian luxury brand borrowed a private Upper East Side townhouse to unveil its new communication campaign, What Makes a Man. The ads and videos that ask that question, in hopes of starting a thought-provoking dialogue, feature “Green Book” actor Mahershala Ali. At the event, the Oscar-winning actor sat down with Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori for a chat to take on the subject. The conversation was supposed to be moderated by Reddit cofounder Alexis Ohanian, but he was at the U.S. Open watching his wife Serena Williams win her semifinal match. But the two men managed just fine without him. They started out by reminiscing about how they met three years ago at an event in L.A. when Ali came into the Zegna store for a custom wardrobe. Sartori said he was impressed with how elegant the actor was and how much he knew about fabric, construction and fashion. Ali said he’d had an interest in fashion since he was a child and one of his earliest memories was “learning how
MILAN — Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the Italian men’s wear powerhouse Ermenegildo Zegna, is known for being a private man, but he’s decided to take a stance to launch a new communication campaign that will be officially presented in New York on Sept. 5. Under the hashtag Whatmakesaman, Zegna’s new campaign is actually much more than simply this season’s latest ads: It maps out a new path for the group, which is reaching out to its customers — established and new — to discuss the concept of masculinity. Gildo Zegna appears in a short film discussing the manifesto. “I believe in this new form of dialogue and direct conversation with our customers through social media, which starts from asking questions, as we do not offer clear-cut answers,” said the executive in an interview in his office here. “What makes a man? There isn’t a single answer to this question, as the world and the concept of masculinity continue to change in a fluid way. Asking questions is the best way to start a conversation. How much do men talk of love or failure? They tend to speak of sports, success, cars, watches, art, travels, business and discipline,” he contended. Things are changing,
ALL TOGETHER NOW: Talk about diversity– Ermenegildo Zegna’s guest list was as varied as can be.
In addition to Oscar winner Mahershala Ali and Quincy Taylor Brown, the front row included Chinese singer Wang Ziyi; Egyptian actor Mena Massoud, protagonist of the 2019 remake of “Aladdin;” German-Spanish actor Daniel Brühl, the main character in the Netflix series “The Alienist;” American football player Victor Cruz; Thai actor Nine Naphat; Chilean actor, dancer and singer Jorge Lopez; British model and actor Ben Hardy from “Bohemian Rhapsody,” and British actor Will Poulter, as well as Joan Smalls.
Ali was wearing a Zegna suit when he won Best Supporting Actor for his performance in “Green Book,” and the actor said he has “had a nice relationship working together [with the Italian men’s wear brand] for two years.” Asked about upcoming movie roles, he laughed and said he was “working on working, putting together some nice projects.” Could an ad campaign with Zegna be in the pipeline? “Potentially,” he demurred.
MILAN — Reporting an uptick in net profits last year, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group is setting the foundations for further growth as it strengthens its omnichannel approach and continues to build its main market, China, while investing in other key regions, including the U.S. and South East Asia.
In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, net profits rose 3.6 percent to 34 million euros, compared with 32.8 million euros in 2017. Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization edged up 0.7 percent to 143 million euros, a margin of 12.3 percent on sales.
Revenues declined 2 percent to 1.16 billion euros, compared with 1.18 billion euros. At constant exchange rates, sales inched up 0.4 percent.
Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, told WWD that he had a positive view of the performance last year, which was affected by a general slowdown in the international economy, currency fluctuations and weak demand in Europe and the U.S. The two regions were dented by slow tourist traffic, especially from China, as the Chinese now prefer to shop in Asia.
The men’s wear group can leverage the “advantage of being already well-known there,” said Zegna, who was in New York to celebrate the official opening
Ermenegildo Zegna opens today a flagship in a New York landmark — the storied Crown Building.
Located at 4 West 57th Street and covering 7,128 square feet, the store was designed by longtime Zegna go-to architect, Peter Marino, who conceived a concept for the unit.
Zegna’s arrival is another indication that 57th Street is increasingly turning into a luxury hub of retail transformation and retail towers. As reported, Nordstrom and David Yurman are moving in, Chanel almost doubled its presence and Swiss watchmaker Richard Mille last October opened its largest store, to name a few.
Zegna’s existing Fifth Avenue store is expected to close by the end of the month. The banner in Brookfield Place overlooking Wall Street will continue to stand. In the U.S., the Italian men’s wear company counts 19 stores and seven outlets.
The striking facade of the flagship is composed of metallic strings, a reference to yarns and the company’s textile expertise, which overlay two glass floors. LED lights illuminate the abstract fabric threads at night.
To convey the Ermenegildo Zegna sensibility, there is vintage furniture, artworks and an innovative installation to present the products, which will change throughout the year and be linked with the displays in the windows.
Leather goods and
Multi-ethnic models, sporty footwear and gender-fluid styles stood out on the fall show runways.
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FAST FRIENDS: “He’s my new best friend, I love our friendship,” gushed Thom Browne of Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. Although his own show is slated for Paris next week, the designer took the time to fly to Milan to show his support for Zegna, which took a majority stake in Thom Browne Inc. at the end last August. While Browne demurred from detailing any specific future plan for the brand, he said there will be “a lot more stores opening in the next couple of years.”
In a sign of Zegna’s pull in China, Hong Kong singer and actor William Chan Wai-ting attended the show, flanked by, among others, the brand’s longtime friend, actor Daniel Brühl; model Winnie Harlow, who snapped photos of the looks throughout the show, and American actor McCaul Lombardi, who fronted Zegna’s advertising campaign with Robert De Niro in 2017. Michele Norsa, vice chairman of Missoni, was also at the show, having joined the board of Zegna in 2017.
Review: Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Fall 2019
Gallery: Backstage at Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Fall 2019
Ermenegildo Zegna is expanding its reach in China.
The luxury Italian men’s wear brand has opened a digital “flagship” on Tmall Luxury Pavilion in a move that marks Zegna’s first online offering in the market outside of its own e-commerce site.
Zegna was one of the first luxury-goods brands to enter China with the opening of its first store in Beijing in 1991. The country now represents about half of its overall business. At the WWD CEO Summit in October, chief executive officer Ermenegildo Zegna, said: “We used to test new things in this market [the U.S.], but now we test them in China, and if it works, then we bring them around the world. [The Chinese customer] is so alive and he wants continuous innovation — probably because he’s younger and he has more time to shop.”
As part of its launch on Tmall, Zegna has created an exclusive collection with the Chinese Football Association. The limited-edition CFA Capsule Collection, which was developed for the China market, offers navy and white activewear, polo shirts, jackets, trainers and leather accessories inspired by the national soccer team’s off-field formal and casual attire, which Zegna has designed since 2016. A fuller assortment will be available by
TRIPLE X: Ermenegildo Zegna has teamed with Farfetch to launch its Ermenegildo Zegna XXX capsule collection in the U.S.
Designed by the brand’s creative director Alessandro Sartori to “match the identity of society’s boldest and most visionary members,” the capsule breaks the boundaries between streetwear and tailoring to offer a wardrobe of urban pieces, combining a contemporary, metropolitan look with sartorial quality. Ermenegildo Zegna officially kicked off its XXX project this year.
Retailing from $ 375 to $ 2,450, the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX capsule collection includes graphic windbreakers, bombers, T-shirts, sweatshirts, knits, as well as accessories such as fanny packs, pouches, basketball caps and hand-stitched sneakers, all embellished with the lineup’s signature XXX pattern.
Dedicated to the U.S. market, this capsule will be exclusively on sale on Farfetch beginning Monday.
MILAN – In the latest shakeup in the constantly evolving men’s wear scene and in a surprising end-of-summer twist, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group said Tuesday that it is buying an 85 percent stake in Thom Browne Inc.
The agreement was reached with Sandbridge Capital and the namesake designer for an enterprise valuation of about $ 500 million. Minority shareholder Stripe International is also no longer an investor. Browne, who founded the brand in 2001, will be the sole other shareholder, and will continue to hold the role of chief creative officer. The Thom Browne business will remain independently run. Rodrigo Bazan, who joined Thom Browne in May 2016 from Alexander Wang and has helped grow the label, will remain the company’s chief executive officer.
Gildo Zegna, ceo of the family-owned group, said the company has “always been open to opportunities for external growth. And, since we started looking at partnerships, I always knew that Thom Browne would be the perfect fit. In addition to the immediate benefits with regards to fabrics and manufacturing support we can leverage our global reach to further expand Thom Browne’s retail network. Most importantly, we share the same passion for excellence and impeccable, modern tailoring. Thom’s visionary approach and his unique
The investment by Ermenegildo Zegna and Reliance Brands in Indian men’s wear designer Raghavendra Rathore marks a series of firsts for all the companies involved — and could signal a major turning point in global companies’ attitude toward Indian fashion.
The investment is the first in an Indian brand by both Zegna and Reliance, while for Rathore it represents another milestone in his career that could help turn him into a designer name recognized worldwide.
Rathore is well-known in the luxury men’s space in India for his tailoring and interpretation of the traditional men’s formalwear bandhgala, breeches and tapered waist coats — with a focus on both sophistication and style. (A bandhgala, which is said to have originated from Jodhpur, is part of Indian formalwear with its high collar, front buttons, and formfitting style.) Designers — many of whom are strongly independent and resist any steering by investors — are interested to see how the growth of his brand pans out with the new investors.
Rathore currently sells his Jodhpur brand in seven stores in India and also has a lower priced line, Imperial India Company. But it is the luxury aspect that the Zegna-Reliance brands’ investment will fuel, focusing on the fast-growing
MILAN — Who knew the Ermenegildo Zegna Group produced Emilio Pucci’s first men’s wear collection in 1968? And who knew Anna Zegna, president of Fondazione Zegna, worked with Gianni Versace on the designer’s first men’s collection in 1978?
These are only two of the surprising discoveries made during a preview tour of the exhibition “Uomini all’Italiana [Men Italian Style] 1968” staged at Casa Zegna, near the brand’s storied wool mill in Trivero, a one and a half hour drive from Milan. The exhibit, organized by Fondazione Zegna, celebrates the 50th anniversary of Ermenegildo Zegna’s entry into ready-to-wear and runs May 6 to Oct. 28. “These years were the beginning of the Italian fashion system and lifestyle,” said Anna Zegna. “Women’s wear was more established, while men’s wear was starting at that time.”
The Emilio Pucci jacket produced by Ermenegildo Zegna.
The exhibit also pays tribute to the namesake founder of the company, and to his sons, Angelo and Aldo. Ermenegildo Zegna first traveled to New York in 1938 to set up a branch, the Ermenegildo Zegna Corp., to meet Italian tailors, to work on direct distribution and “to fight the supremacy of English fabrics,” as claimed by a number of photos, ads and correspondence on
MILAN — Gildo Zegna wants to be prepared for unforeseen challenges “with a certain degree of coolness.”
The Ermenegildo Zegna Group closed 2017 with a 64 percent spike in net profits, but its chief executive officer says he is never satisfied. “The trend is positive, but our goal is to grow more, we have everything it takes, we have the resources, we have a complex machine that works and we have a team that is supporting Alessandro Sartori, who is making the difference,” Zegna told WWD on Monday, referring to the men’s wear group’s artistic director. Sartori left Berluti in 2016 to return to the Zegna Group, succeeding Stefano Pilati with expanded responsibilities, and his first collection bowed for fall 2017.
In 2017, net earnings totaled 32.8 million euros, compared with 20 million euros in 2016.
In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization climbed 13.6 percent to 142 million euros, compared with 125 million euros in the previous year.
Revenues increased 2.3 percent to 1.18 billion euros, compared with 1.15 billion euros in 2016. At constant exchange, sales gained 4.5 percent.
“Alex [Sartori] is full of energy, he has brought modernity and style to the company and his way
MILAN – A new brand strategy and a turnaround in markets including China, the Russian Federation, Macau, Singapore and Japan helped the Ermenegildo Zegna Group post a 64 percent jump in net profits last year. In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, earnings rose to 32.8 million euros, compared with 20 million euros in 2016.
Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization climbed 13.6 percent to 142 million euros, compared with 125 million euros, in the previous year.
Revenues increased 2.3 percent to 1.18 billion euros, compared with 1.15 billion euros in 2016. At constant exchange, sales gained 4.5 percent.
“The positive results of 2017 are the outcome of many factors which have interacted nicely thanks to the brand strategy that was inaugurated with the arrival of Alessandro Sartori as artistic director,” said Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the family-owned group. “The success of the collections, the development of capsules able to integrate the offer of seasonal collections, and the intensification of marketing initiatives starting with communication campaigns that support storytelling linked to our products and events have allowed Zegna to participate in the recovery that is characterizing the global markets. Thanks to the omnichannel, or the integration between physical and virtual channels, we have not
NEW DELHI — This has been another milestone year for Gildo Zegna, since he is marking two decades as Ermenegildo Zegna’s chief executive officer.
In addition, 2017 represents 10 years since the Italian men’s wear brand entered the Indian market, which Zegna described on a visit here as of “key strategic importance” while surveying the country’s changing retail landscape and speaking to students at the Indian Institute of Management, Ahmedabad, about the challenges of a family-owned business.
The ceo has begun to institute a new brand strategy over the last year; changed design direction under creative director Alessandro Sartori, who joined in June 2016; is excited about innovations like tech-merino and pelle tesuto, and has a continued focus on bringing in Millennials to the brand.
This year, close to 50 percent of the Zegna group’s turnover will come from the Asian market.
In an exclusive interview with WWD, Zegna talked about the allure of Asian markets while adding both prophecy and insight to his 20 years at the helm.
WWD: This year you mark 20 years as a chief executive officer of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. Do you feel invigorated by the milestone? Or burnt out?
Gildo Zegna: I have lasted long. Usually a chief executive officer lasts
Ermenegildo Zegna is making a play in the wearable fashion space with the debut of the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture XXX Collection at an event in Los Angeles on Tuesday. The collection of mix-and-match essentials retailing from $ 135 to $ 2,295 will be available at Zegna’s New York and Los Angeles boutiques from Tuesday and globally on Feb. 8.
The functional style concept comprising sweatshirts, denim, outerwear, caps and sneakers is made with natural and eco-friendly materials including pure cotton, recycled polyester and technical silk fabrics. From color-block bombers to floral, foliage and hand-designed motifs, including a subtle XXX logo, the sartorial symbol for “fatto a mano” (hand-made), the fashion-forward urban wear is meant to be versatile and fun.
The street smart wardrobe will be unveiled for celebrities and VIPs at a party hosted by Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori and featuring his friend (and creative collaborator) Benjamin Millepied, whose L.A. Dance Project will perform at the Sheats-Goldstein residence wearing six exclusive XXX Collection pieces that will only be sold in the U.S.
“The Ermenegildo Zegna Couture XXX Collection represents the coolest, youngest and more energetic side of the Ermenegildo Zegna brand,” said Sartori. “What I really like is to link the Milan Ermenegildo Zegna
TOYZ ‘R’ US: Men want to have fun, too.
The Ermenegildo Zegna Group took the opportunity to launch a new collection of men’s accessories, games and home products during the international design and furniture trade show Salone del Mobile. Called Zegna’s Toyz, the items, which range from a domino set to a backpack, are made in Pelle Tessuta, an innovative woven napa made from extremely thin strips of micro-leather in place of fabric yarns. “Leather is treated as fabric,” explained artistic director Alessandro Sartori. Pelle Tessuta is woven on special looms, replicating the traditional way of weaving cloth, making it extremely light and versatile. “Feel how soft it is,” said chief executive officer Gildo Zegna. “Would you say it’s leather?”
Zegna’s Toyz will be available in the fall as part of a special holiday gift project in major Ermenegildo Zegna stores globally.
The collection is divided into Essential, including a valet box, a business card case and a sunglasses case; Toys, which includes a domino set, a playing card set and a game cube, and Technological, a selection of multimedia accessories, such as headphones, earphones and speakers, created in collaboration with audio brand Master & Dynamic.
Completing the Zegna’s Toyz collection is a bag, designed and created with
MILAN — Putting 2016 down as “a transitional” year, Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, is banking on a new brand strategy, the company’s newly reorganized structure and a rebound in China and Europe to boost business in 2017.
“I am confident we will grow again this year; we started off on the right foot,” said Zegna in a phone interview ahead of boarding a plane for Dubai to join artistic director Alessandro Sartori on a number of personal appearances in the region. “One-on-one relations are fundamental, Alex is almost like a personal stylist in some cases,” said Zegna.
While 2017 looks promising, results last year were hit by extraordinary costs and write-offs, as well as lackluster sales in the group’s main markets.
In 2016, Zegna’s net profit fell 55.5 percent to 20 million euros, or $ 22 million, from 45 million euros, or $ 49.9 million, in 2015.
Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization dropped 14.3 percent to 125 million euros, or $ 137.5 million, from 146 million euros, or $ 162 million, the previous year.
Revenues decreased 8.2 percent to 1.15 billion euros, or $ 1.26 billion, compared with 1.26 billion euros, or $ 1.4 billion, in 2015. At constant exchange, sales were down
MILAN — “This is a dream come true.” Describing the launch of Ermenegildo Zegna’s first bespoke service, an upbeat Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the family-owned company, said he had been mulling the idea of the project for years. Working with artistic director Alessandro Sartori allowed the brand to finally turn the concept into reality.
The service is offered out of an atelier in a historical palazzo in Milan on central Via Bigli, with a separate entrance that ensures privacy, but that is also connected to the men’s wear brand’s Via Montenapoleone flagship. “This is the ideal venue,” said Zegna on Tuesday, opening the doors of the sophisticated location, which covers 1,155 square feet, and is decorated with a Pietro Russo console; armchairs and a large wooden table by Ignazio Gardella; a metal armoire by Massimiliano Locatelli; lamps by Fontana Arte, and a rug inspired by Giò Ponti. Geometric decors pay homage to the storied Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan and the interiors hark back to the Fifties.
Six tailors work at the atelier, but they are set to travel around the world by appointment.
“Fashion runs too quickly now, propelled by a digital push,” said Zegna. “We must go back to the times when going
MILAN — Ermenegildo Zegna is shifting gears and investing in a new communication campaign heavily hinged on digital and dubbed “Defining Moments,” pairing Roberto De Niro with McCaul Lombardi.
This confirms a WWD report in November. A private dinner will be held in New York tonight to celebrate the project.
An exclusive interview with chief executive officer Gildo Zegna and artistic director Alessandro Sartori together at the company’s headquarters here meant to discuss the spring campaign’s concept turned into a “defining moment” in itself as the conversation touched upon a wide variety of topics, including the bond between the two men, which goes back more than two decades.
“I still get goosebumps when I watch the video,” Zegna said of the three-minute film, which sees De Niro and Lombardi in Los Angeles talking at a private villa in Beverly Hills or driving around town in a burgundy, vintage open-top Maserati.
In the video, De Niro discusses his decision-making in accepting or refusing a role and shares his experience with Lombardi. “The conversation was real, easy and spontaneous, there was no predefined theme,” said Sartori, who showed his first collection for the brand in January.
“It’s a beautiful couple, we are very satisfied with the finished
ZEGNA MEN: On his way to Switzerland for a quick snowboarding jaunt, McCaul Lombardi said at the Ermenegildo Zegna show on Friday night that he had just finished filming “Sollers Point,” due to be presented at the Cannes Film Festival this spring. The story of a small-time drug dealer, “it’s a coming of age story, as he adapts to life out of prison,” said Lombardi, who is one of the actors fronting the brand’s ad campaign for spring.
Lodovico Colli di Felizzano/WWD
“It’s amazing. I can’t believe they’ve managed to fill a space this size, and it’s still intimate,” marveled Mads Mikkelsen surveying the venue, strewn with apocalyptic Anselm Kiefer concrete towers. “I just thought it was something from Pisa, they’re kind of at an angle,” he said. The actor, who recently wrapped promoting “Rogue One: A Star Wars Story,” said he was looking forward to taking a break. “Vacation for me is being at home, as I’m never home, so that would be Denmark.” Skal!
Ermenegildo Zegna has secured Robert De Niro to front its spring advertising campaign, WWD has learned.
Reached by phone, artistic director Alessandro Sartori said he could not confirm this, but revealed that he had “decided to change the concept of advertising and communication” for the Italian men’s wear powerhouse. “We are thinking of a communication platform that can trigger emotions, in line with the values of the group and my artistic direction, and that will tell the story of the brand and not that of the product, in a collage of characters with different identities but with stylistic affinity engaged in conversations,” said Sartori.
According to sources, De Niro will be flanked by actor McCaul Lombardi and the campaign, photographed by Francesco Carrozzini in Los Angeles, will also feature a video.
It would be a coup for Zegna to work with De Niro, who has a long-standing relationship with Giorgio Armani.
Sartori joined the Ermenegildo Zegna Group in June, with responsibility across all Zegna brands and for all creative functions. His first collection will bow for the fall season and will be unveiled in Milan in January.
After a five-year collaboration, Sartori left the top design post at Berluti in February. The designer had joined Berluti after eight years
While Milan will be the stage for Alessandro Sartori’s official debut as artistic director of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, his Z Zegna collection will be unveiled in Florence with an installation during Pitti Uomo, Jan. 10 to 12. This will mark a return to Pitti Uomo for the Italian men’s wear powerhouse after a three year absence. It is also a return for Sartori, who was at the creative helm of Z Zegna for eight years until 2011. Z Zegna was launched in 2003.
Chief executive officer Gildo Zegna said participating at Pitti Uomo was part of the group’s growth strategies. “Alessandro Sartori embraced the opportunity to present our new vision with great enthusiasm,” said Zegna. “He developed a very innovative, forward looking collection that perfectly matches this season’s theme of ‘Fashion meets Activewear.’ At Pitti, one of the most prestigious global events for textile innovation and style, our [natural high- performance fabric] Techmerino project finds its perfect home.”
TOKYO—In bid to highlight this country’s high level of craftsmanship and lure new customers, Ermenegildo Zegna is rolling out an exclusive capsule collection made entirely in Japan by local artisans.
The 22-piece collection, labeled “Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Made in Japan”, will go on sale Saturday at Zegna’s flagship in Ginza. It will bow at the brand’s Osaka store on Oct. 1. The company plans to roll out certain pieces to other stores around the world later this year.
Zegna celebrated the collection’s launch with a cocktail party Thursday night at the recently opened Aman Tokyo hotel in the central business district of Otemachi. Stefano Pilati, Zegna’s head of design, and chief executive Gildo Zegna hosted the affair. Guests sipped champagne as they mingled in the lobby area of the hotel, where a nearly 100-foot-high ceiling creates the illusion of being inside a giant Japanese paper lantern.
Photographer Takashi Homma shot the capsule collection on five Japanese “key opinion leaders,” including actor Ryo Kase, who appeared in Clint Eastwood’s “Letters from Iwo Jima,” as well as a chef, a musician and an architect. Homma’s photos were on display at the party, along with a video about the project and the collection itself. Olivier Zahm,
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Begin: 2014-04-03 00:00:00
Expire: 2014-04-11 00:00:00